You've made a mistake. You need to loosen the oil filter before or during the draining of the oil. After you open the filter there will be an extra 200ml of oil going to drain towards the oilpan. Also always drain your oil when the angine is warm. Never when it's cold. Warm the engine and wait 10 min. Then drain the oil.
Indeed, in retrospect I should have first slackened the oil filter housing to allow the drain valve to open and empty the filter cartridge of oil into the sump. Though in practice, I doubt those 200 ml of old oil will have any significant negative impact when mixed with 3.5 - 3.6 liters of fresh oil. As for draining the oil when hot, it's a matter of debate, with the "hot" drain indeed being seen as more desirable. But in practice, it again makes very little difference and you won't damage the engine or noticeably reduce its lifetime by doing "cold" drains. I think it's far more important to stick to more frequent oil change intervals.
Hey pal, Can I ask what part number Mann filter you have been using, I want to check if it matches to mine. Also I am trying that ravenol oil suggested by you, as the reviews look pretty good from what I have been seeing.
I've added the part numbers of all the components I've used in the video description. I'm very happy with the Ravenol HLS's performance - 5K km after the service from the video, the oil level hasn't dropped a bit and the car behaves very well, even in colder weather (we've had a few days of -10 degrees C around here and the car started and drove without any issues).
The engine oil for this engine shouldn't be Dexos 1 gen 2 ? I can see you are using Dexos2 which is more suitable for petrol & turbo diesel engines. Maybe i'm wrong. Just asking. I have two Vauxhall cars with 1.4 petrol engines and i use Ravenol 5w30 DXG dexos 1 gen 2.
It really depends on the country where the vehicle operates. The owner's manual for the 2014 Corsa D, pg. 195 (carmanuals2.com/opel/corsa-2014-owner-s-manual-93615/page-195/) shows that for most of Europe a Dexos2 oil is required, with only Israel requiring Dexos1. Since I'm based in Romania, I'm required to use Dexos2 as well, which is why I'm using Ravenol HLS.
En the EU. The non turbo models is dexos 2 the oil that this engine needs. Only the newer 1,4 1,6 turbo(and the direct injection engines) need Dexos 1.
Hi! For the petrol versions of the Corsa including the 1.4 (A14XEL/A14XER) the petrol fuel filter is inside the fuel tank, integrated with the fuel pump. It is not a serviceable item and it is only replaced as part of the entire fuel pump assembly when problems appear with the unit. This is in contrast to the diesel engines of the Corsa, where there is a dedicated diesel fuel filter cartridge which should be replaced at regular intervals.
I'm based on Romania. Here you can order online directly from the Romanian Ravenol store but also from certain car parts stores that also sell this oil brand. What country are you from?
@@TheMissingBolt I am based in the United Kingdom, but have never heard of ravenol before oyur video, so doing some research, currently use shell 5w30 AG professional, before this i used Castrol 5w30 c3 magnatec but having spoke with someone there, they have changed the formula, meaning i would need to go to a 5w40 to get the dexos 2 spec. but i am looking at ravenol or motul as another try for engine oil. plan to send some emails tomorrow for more information
OMG.its 113k km, 10k sercicez yet oil is so black. Mine never was so dark. I use engibe flush before draining the pam. Dexos2 is for the EU, Dexos 1 for the East. I only use GM branded 5w30 oil. My engine is completly bare - there is no cover.
I did 2 services so far at about 10K km each, in both cases the oil was black but there are no signs of wear or debris in the oil, nor do I have any oil consumption. It's quite normal to have black oil after 10K km of driving. You're correct about Dexos2 for EU and Dexos1 for all other markets except Israel. I personally don't have a very good opinion about the genuine GM oil, based on recommendations from Opel mechanics and the fact that it's very cheap.
Black oil means it's doing it's job, it does NOT necessarily mean the oil is bad. A common misconception. When oil is thicker than normal, or thinner, when there's 'bits' in them, then it's bad and needs replaced asap. New oil in diesels goes black real quick, it's still perfectly fine.
Schimba uleiul mai devreme de 10k mai ales daca km faci nu mai in oras, daca vrei sa te tina motorul fara probleme peste 200k. Motoarele astea au distributia pe lant si intinzatorul hidraulic si variatoarele de la distributie, deci conteaza f mult sa aiba mereu un ulei proaspat mai ales cand ai trecut de 100k. Schimba uleiul la 7-8k max daca vrei sa nu ai probleme cu distributia pe la 150k in sus. HLS de la ravenol este un banal hidrocrakat nu este adevarat full sintetic, nu asi tine asemenea ulei 10k in motor mai ales daca faci drumuri scurte cu masina
@@nunogoncalves24Nope, has been working flawlessly so far. Then again, it only has 122,000 km right now, so I wasn't expecting anything major to go wrong with it.
@@TheMissingBolt I have this engine on my Opel Astra J from 2010, with 255'000 km and so far absolutely great. Emissions tests at inspection are also perfect. I have had to replace my evap purge valve, and also got a leak through my oil pressure sensor. Also my spark plugs seem to wear fairly fast, but I'm just using the ones recommended by my Heynes manual, and they're dirt cheap (like 6€ each or something), so probably that. Should probably try upgrading them to irridium next time. Also had similar corrosion problems as you did on the ignition coils. I suspect some oil is leaking through the valve cover gasket as well (at least looks a bit like that), so might need to replace that sometime, but so far not enough that I would even have to fill up oil between oil changes even. So far all maintenance required have been really simple to do.
@@mattegeniet That's my impression as well with the A14XER on our Corsa. It's performing really well without any major issues so far. But I do try fix any issue as soon as it appears, so as to keep it in shape.
Actually no. It's been more than a year since I did this service and I have absolutely no issues with the timing chain or tensioner. The drive belt tensioner, however, was causing some noise because it needed replacing - that's how I ended up doing the drive belt changing video.
Given that the A14XER engine takes 4 litres of oil, those 300 ml account for 7.5 % of the total capacity. Assuming regular oil changes every 1 year or 10K km, this amount won't cause any kind of damage / sludge build-up in the engine. Given this negligible downside, the vacuum method is not "completely wrong" as you say, it's just more convenient since it doesn't require you to get under the car and it removes the risk of tightening the drain bolt incorrectly.
@@paulkomn946 Keep in mind that those 4 liters that you're draining at the bottom are the engine's service fill. The dry fill is at least 0.5L larger, meaning those 0.5L of old oil will remain in the engine no matter what draining method you use. And I don't see why you couldn't do it repeatedly, since if you're left with 7.5% of old oil after drain #1 and you then do drain #2 after 1 year, then you'll be left with 7.5% of old oil from drain #2, of which 7.5 % x 7.5 % = 0.56 % of the total service fill capacity is the (very) old oil from drain #1 (practically insignificant). For example, the recommended oil drain procedure for the Range Rover in the service is to use a vacuum pump at the top of the engine (there's a special nozzle designed precisely for this), as it's more convenient than having to lift the car and remove the steel under-body shield in order to reach the drain bolt.
@@TheMissingBolt This multiplication apply in dice probabilities. With your own wrong thinking at the sixth refill with this method there wouldn't be any old oil ,which is wrong. Every time you refill always remain the same exra quantity of old oil.
You've made a mistake. You need to loosen the oil filter before or during the draining of the oil. After you open the filter there will be an extra 200ml of oil going to drain towards the oilpan. Also always drain your oil when the angine is warm. Never when it's cold. Warm the engine and wait 10 min. Then drain the oil.
Indeed, in retrospect I should have first slackened the oil filter housing to allow the drain valve to open and empty the filter cartridge of oil into the sump. Though in practice, I doubt those 200 ml of old oil will have any significant negative impact when mixed with 3.5 - 3.6 liters of fresh oil. As for draining the oil when hot, it's a matter of debate, with the "hot" drain indeed being seen as more desirable. But in practice, it again makes very little difference and you won't damage the engine or noticeably reduce its lifetime by doing "cold" drains. I think it's far more important to stick to more frequent oil change intervals.
Hey pal, Can I ask what part number Mann filter you have been using, I want to check if it matches to mine. Also I am trying that ravenol oil suggested by you, as the reviews look pretty good from what I have been seeing.
I've added the part numbers of all the components I've used in the video description. I'm very happy with the Ravenol HLS's performance - 5K km after the service from the video, the oil level hasn't dropped a bit and the car behaves very well, even in colder weather (we've had a few days of -10 degrees C around here and the car started and drove without any issues).
The engine oil for this engine shouldn't be Dexos 1 gen 2 ? I can see you are using Dexos2 which is more suitable for petrol & turbo diesel engines. Maybe i'm wrong. Just asking. I have two Vauxhall cars with 1.4 petrol engines and i use Ravenol 5w30 DXG dexos 1 gen 2.
It really depends on the country where the vehicle operates. The owner's manual for the 2014 Corsa D, pg. 195 (carmanuals2.com/opel/corsa-2014-owner-s-manual-93615/page-195/) shows that for most of Europe a Dexos2 oil is required, with only Israel requiring Dexos1. Since I'm based in Romania, I'm required to use Dexos2 as well, which is why I'm using Ravenol HLS.
En the EU. The non turbo models is dexos 2 the oil that this engine needs. Only the newer 1,4 1,6 turbo(and the direct injection engines) need Dexos 1.
Hi do you know where the fuel filter is located on a 1.4 engine
Hi! For the petrol versions of the Corsa including the 1.4 (A14XEL/A14XER) the petrol fuel filter is inside the fuel tank, integrated with the fuel pump. It is not a serviceable item and it is only replaced as part of the entire fuel pump assembly when problems appear with the unit. This is in contrast to the diesel engines of the Corsa, where there is a dedicated diesel fuel filter cartridge which should be replaced at regular intervals.
Thanks 👍
And I agree with you about the cabin filter ....
Did you have to gap spark plugs, and does it really matter in terms of precision
No, I just installed the new plugs as they came and I had no issues. But the Haynes manual does give the gaping interval, if I remember correctly.
They are pre gapped.
Can I ask, where abiuts are you based country wise? I'm thinking of trying ravenol like you have suggested and wondering where you got it from?
I'm based on Romania. Here you can order online directly from the Romanian Ravenol store but also from certain car parts stores that also sell this oil brand. What country are you from?
@@TheMissingBolt I am based in the United Kingdom, but have never heard of ravenol before oyur video, so doing some research, currently use shell 5w30 AG professional, before this i used Castrol 5w30 c3 magnatec but having spoke with someone there, they have changed the formula, meaning i would need to go to a 5w40 to get the dexos 2 spec. but i am looking at ravenol or motul as another try for engine oil. plan to send some emails tomorrow for more information
42:25 Can i ask in regards to air fkow arrows inbthe air filter. Shoukd the arrows point towards the back of the car or the front of the car?
The arrows should point towards the back of the car.
OMG.its 113k km, 10k sercicez yet oil is so black. Mine never was so dark.
I use engibe flush before draining the pam. Dexos2 is for the EU, Dexos 1 for the East. I only use GM branded 5w30 oil.
My engine is completly bare - there is no cover.
I did 2 services so far at about 10K km each, in both cases the oil was black but there are no signs of wear or debris in the oil, nor do I have any oil consumption. It's quite normal to have black oil after 10K km of driving. You're correct about Dexos2 for EU and Dexos1 for all other markets except Israel. I personally don't have a very good opinion about the genuine GM oil, based on recommendations from Opel mechanics and the fact that it's very cheap.
Black oil means it's doing it's job, it does NOT necessarily mean the oil is bad.
A common misconception.
When oil is thicker than normal, or thinner, when there's 'bits' in them, then it's bad and needs replaced asap.
New oil in diesels goes black real quick, it's still perfectly fine.
Schimba uleiul mai devreme de 10k mai ales daca km faci nu mai in oras, daca vrei sa te tina motorul fara probleme peste 200k. Motoarele astea au distributia pe lant si intinzatorul hidraulic si variatoarele de la distributie, deci conteaza f mult sa aiba mereu un ulei proaspat mai ales cand ai trecut de 100k. Schimba uleiul la 7-8k max daca vrei sa nu ai probleme cu distributia pe la 150k in sus. HLS de la ravenol este un banal hidrocrakat nu este adevarat full sintetic, nu asi tine asemenea ulei 10k in motor mai ales daca faci drumuri scurte cu masina
Hello friend, your motor is the A14xer? Greetings.
Hi! Yes, it is.
@@TheMissingBolt Good motor, do you have any proplems? Until now for me fine.
@@nunogoncalves24Nope, has been working flawlessly so far. Then again, it only has 122,000 km right now, so I wasn't expecting anything major to go wrong with it.
@@TheMissingBolt I have this engine on my Opel Astra J from 2010, with 255'000 km and so far absolutely great. Emissions tests at inspection are also perfect. I have had to replace my evap purge valve, and also got a leak through my oil pressure sensor. Also my spark plugs seem to wear fairly fast, but I'm just using the ones recommended by my Heynes manual, and they're dirt cheap (like 6€ each or something), so probably that. Should probably try upgrading them to irridium next time. Also had similar corrosion problems as you did on the ignition coils. I suspect some oil is leaking through the valve cover gasket as well (at least looks a bit like that), so might need to replace that sometime, but so far not enough that I would even have to fill up oil between oil changes even.
So far all maintenance required have been really simple to do.
@@mattegeniet That's my impression as well with the A14XER on our Corsa. It's performing really well without any major issues so far. But I do try fix any issue as soon as it appears, so as to keep it in shape.
The chain is getting a bit rattly.
Actually no. It's been more than a year since I did this service and I have absolutely no issues with the timing chain or tensioner. The drive belt tensioner, however, was causing some noise because it needed replacing - that's how I ended up doing the drive belt changing video.
gm oil sucks
Yeah, I agree that it's not the best alternative...
the method drain oils via vacum is completely wrong because 300ml oil remain in the carter.
Given that the A14XER engine takes 4 litres of oil, those 300 ml account for 7.5 % of the total capacity. Assuming regular oil changes every 1 year or 10K km, this amount won't cause any kind of damage / sludge build-up in the engine. Given this negligible downside, the vacuum method is not "completely wrong" as you say, it's just more convenient since it doesn't require you to get under the car and it removes the risk of tightening the drain bolt incorrectly.
@@TheMissingBolt ok not completely wrong... Let's say not completely correct. ok?
if you do it one time does not matter. Don't doing it continusly
@@paulkomn946 Keep in mind that those 4 liters that you're draining at the bottom are the engine's service fill. The dry fill is at least 0.5L larger, meaning those 0.5L of old oil will remain in the engine no matter what draining method you use. And I don't see why you couldn't do it repeatedly, since if you're left with 7.5% of old oil after drain #1 and you then do drain #2 after 1 year, then you'll be left with 7.5% of old oil from drain #2, of which 7.5 % x 7.5 % = 0.56 % of the total service fill capacity is the (very) old oil from drain #1 (practically insignificant). For example, the recommended oil drain procedure for the Range Rover in the service is to use a vacuum pump at the top of the engine (there's a special nozzle designed precisely for this), as it's more convenient than having to lift the car and remove the steel under-body shield in order to reach the drain bolt.
@@TheMissingBolt This multiplication apply in dice probabilities.
With your own wrong thinking at the sixth refill with this method there wouldn't be any old oil ,which is wrong.
Every time you refill always remain the same exra quantity of old oil.