You are more than welcome, I'm glad you got it running...I'm not asking much just subscribe and share it with others who you think might benefit from it...that's all😉👍
Sorry, but wasn't needed at that time. When the weather improves, I am planning to go for a little faster ride-out with mine so everybody can enjoy the exhaust roar, and the scenery if you will be able to something 🤣
I bought my first Virago 2 years ago, and there was almost 0 videoes, that went fully into the details, about anything, regarding the bike. - If there were, the videoes were 240p, and rubbish. I'm so glad that I've found you, and all of your videos so far, have been seen 2-3 times each, so I can get more confident, about splitting my newest XV1100 a bit apart & clean in ;) Cheers from Denmark!
Thank you very much... I really appreciate it 👍👍 I'm glad you like them and I know exactly what you mean...dark, 240p, hand-held, and can't hear anything 😄 Welcome to my channel😉👍
Thank you very much for this detailed video MC. My 1st Gen needs a carb cleaning and will help me immensely to remove them. I recently purchased a cheap 2nd Gen which will also needs carb cleaning but first need to unseize one cyclinder.
Hi there and thanks for the tutorial. I have a 750 and currently replacing the carb joints. What is interesting for me is there is only one heat shield on the air inlet pipe on the right side of the bike-Air filter side. Should there be more heat Shields on the other air inlet boots? And why is it on the top side, I think they have to be facing the cyl.head fins..Thanks again.
Hello. Thank you. Them aluminium shields actually nothing to do with heat...only decoration. Imagine how would it look like without it on the right side with all the chrome...ugly The reason is only one is simply the rear cylinder intake boot is not visible so doesn't need it😉😁
After winter tried to turn my bike on but its pushing gas from the vent hose right there by the air filter on right side. I would like to hear your opinion about it please
Hello, typical problem. Your float stuck on the bottom position and not coming up to close the needle valve. I have foud a design problem with the bst 40 carbs which will allow the float to stuck against the float bowl. I solved this by soldering a little tin bump on the needle valve seat where the float touches it, so it can't go that far down...fixed 3 bikes so far, none of them had issues since. Or just simply you got some crap stuck in your needle valve, but considering it happened after a longer period of sitting my bet would be the design issue with the needle seat. Quick fix is if you knock the carbs with a screwdriver back end, to free the float, then every day or 2 keep topping up the carbs with the pump so the float can't get to the bottom position to get stuck. In this video in the first minute I explained this and show a photo what I did later on, and how...Hope this helps
Me personally like the genuine stuff, but many used K&L without any problems. I heard that the Tourmax is good, I used thier brake master cylinder kit and it was identical to the Genuine, very likely it is the same.
They are for syncing the carbs only, there is no petcock or booster which need vacuum. So in normal use they are always plugged. The 1100 from 96' uses tps to advance the ignition instead of a booster, and never had petcock so no vacuum needed
![[Докатились!] Yamaha XV 1100. Не стареющая классика](/img/1.gif)
How do i thank you enough!!!! You helped me no end, I bough the same bike been sitting for 7 years outside and thanks to you it’s runs!!!!
You are more than welcome, I'm glad you got it running...I'm not asking much just subscribe and share it with others who you think might benefit from it...that's all😉👍
@@MidlandCruiser can I have your pay pal address as would love to give you a drink as can’t in person
😄 that is really not necessary, I really do appreciate the gesture though...I'm glad your bike is running and you love it.
Great videos MC,, Brilliant bike the Virago, the only bike I regret selling, I keep looking for a good one,,
Very helpful. I'll be attempting this same operation today. Thanks for going through the pain so that I don't have to. 😄
Virago master class. Loved it. I was hoping you would start it up at the end of the video.
Sorry, but wasn't needed at that time. When the weather improves, I am planning to go for a little faster ride-out with mine so everybody can enjoy the exhaust roar, and the scenery if you will be able to something 🤣
I bought my first Virago 2 years ago, and there was almost 0 videoes, that went fully into the details, about anything, regarding the bike.
- If there were, the videoes were 240p, and rubbish.
I'm so glad that I've found you, and all of your videos so far, have been seen 2-3 times each, so I can get more confident, about splitting my newest XV1100 a bit apart & clean in ;)
Cheers from Denmark!
Thank you very much... I really appreciate it 👍👍
I'm glad you like them and I know exactly what you mean...dark, 240p, hand-held, and can't hear anything 😄
Welcome to my channel😉👍
Thank you very much for this detailed video MC. My 1st Gen needs a carb cleaning and will help me immensely to remove them.
I recently purchased a cheap 2nd Gen which will also needs carb cleaning but first need to unseize one cyclinder.
Ah, the midlandCruiser finally loses his cool! Keep it up, v. concise tutorials
😁👍
Thanks for this Video I could not have done my carbs with out it.
Got the bike fired up on 4 Sep. 2022
Very good I see your getting more confident with your videos now 😜
After nearly 40 of them I think it's about time😁
nice video, thanks for a lesson! i do it the same , but the fuel line in my 750 is slow different. thanks again!
You're welcome... Glad you find it useful. Yes the 750 is slightly different, but the main steps are the same..
Great video. Thanks
Hi there and thanks for the tutorial. I have a 750 and currently replacing the carb joints. What is interesting for me is there is only one heat shield on the air inlet pipe on the right side of the bike-Air filter side. Should there be more heat Shields on the other air inlet boots? And why is it on the top side, I think they have to be facing the cyl.head fins..Thanks again.
Hello. Thank you.
Them aluminium shields actually nothing to do with heat...only decoration. Imagine how would it look like without it on the right side with all the chrome...ugly
The reason is only one is simply the rear cylinder intake boot is not visible so doesn't need it😉😁
By the way nice video
After winter tried to turn my bike on but its pushing gas from the vent hose right there by the air filter on right side. I would like to hear your opinion about it please
Hello, typical problem. Your float stuck on the bottom position and not coming up to close the needle valve. I have foud a design problem with the bst 40 carbs which will allow the float to stuck against the float bowl. I solved this by soldering a little tin bump on the needle valve seat where the float touches it, so it can't go that far down...fixed 3 bikes so far, none of them had issues since. Or just simply you got some crap stuck in your needle valve, but considering it happened after a longer period of sitting my bet would be the design issue with the needle seat.
Quick fix is if you knock the carbs with a screwdriver back end, to free the float, then every day or 2 keep topping up the carbs with the pump so the float can't get to the bottom position to get stuck. In this video in the first minute I explained this and show a photo what I did later on, and how...Hope this helps
Nice video👍
Which the carb repair kit do you recommend?
Me personally like the genuine stuff, but many used K&L without any problems. I heard that the Tourmax is good, I used thier brake master cylinder kit and it was identical to the Genuine, very likely it is the same.
Can someone tell me what the big screw is ?
Located in the middle almost close to the intake biggest screw on there idk what its purpose is
How come your vacuum line on the i take boot was plugged?
They are for syncing the carbs only, there is no petcock or booster which need vacuum. So in normal use they are always plugged.
The 1100 from 96' uses tps to advance the ignition instead of a booster, and never had petcock so no vacuum needed