How To Drill Holes In Thick Steel - A Lesson For The Novice - With & Without A Drill Press
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- Опубликовано: 3 июн 2024
- There are important things to know if you want to properly drill thick steel. This video is a lesson in the basics...
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Can you further define "bar stock"? The text overlay @6:36 says "Common high speed steel bits will NOT drill hardened steel, stainless steel, and cast iron." Are you saying the drill bits you used were better than 'common high speed steel bits' or that the bar stock is "softer" than hardened steel, stainless steel etc?
The steel I'm drilling and defining as "bar stock" is common "mild" steel (most of the steel produced is some form of mild steel). It can be bar stock ( as I show) or tube, or solid rod. The main point being, it is a thick steel, as opposed to sheet metal. Mild steel is relatively soft steel and it is what you'll find at Lowes or Home Depot. The specific steel I was drilling is sold at speedymetals.com as "1018 cold finished flat steel." Any high speed SHARP drill bit will drill mild steel, as I show in this video. The bits I used happen to be "titanium coated." The titanium coating may make some difference in bit durability but my suspicion is that the titanium claim is more of a sales ploy than anything else (it worked on me). If I had sharp non-titanium bits I could have used them with the same results, as long as they were sharp to begin and well lubricated during drilling. You can drill brass, copper and aluminum with a high speed steel bit. But common high speed steel bits are not suited for drilling hardened steel, stainless steel, and cast iron. They will drill those metals to some degree, but not with any satisfaction. Thanks for the question. 👍
Misterdubity: As Mr Kimball explained, most steels are mild/soft steels. Drill bits & many other tools are examples of hardened/hard steel. If a center punch easily deforms the steel it isn’t hard. If you can easily gouge scratches in it with the sharp corner of drill bit or with a scribing tool, then it is also soft/mild steel. Some strong screws & fasteners, such as are used in critical automobile parts are hard or half hard steel. (You can drill very hard steels with carbide or diamond drill bits, but it can be tricky.) Also, rusty areas of soft/mild steel sometimes behave like hardened steel when you cut or drill them. Rust is generally harder than mild steel.
@@mics3747 Thank you. That was helpful. So the bar stock (which was indented by the punch) is softer than ordinary steel drill bits.
Great video! I'm glad you can teach something to others so they can learn how to do a project like this. When we were drilling any holes in steel and couldn't get access to the magnetic drill we would have to fend for ourselves. Of course we did a small drill bit first but when we went up to half inch or so we would make a dam with plumbers putty around the hole that we were going to drill. That would hold our lune/coolant to the area being drilled. We then would fill a large spray bottle with crushed ice and water. We would spray that concoction to cool down the drill bit. We keep it lubed and we kept it cool so we didn't have to stop and resharpen. Just a hint to everyone. Thanks for reading this.
I’m going to remember that plumber’s putty idea. Probably could have drilled straight on down without pulling the bit up if I was drilling into a pool of oil. 👍
Thanks for this info. I used to think lubricating a drill bit would somehow stop it cutting! I wish I had seen this video about 15 drill-bits ago.😊
Nice Video! Was watching in my den. Looked at my book shelf when you mentioned Shop Work on the Farm, I have a copy! It was my Dad's from school. Author is Mack M Jones,MS Professor of Agricultural Engineering,University of Missouri. Published by McGraw-Hill,1945. Keep passing on the knowledge and skills,you would have been a great shop class instructor!!
I use Marvel Mystery Oil for a cutting oil. The problem of using a hand drill is the inability to maintain the SLOW SPEED you need for drilling through metal, and keeping the drill perpendicular to the intended hole. I don't even use my drill press, Herrick, but then... I have a milling machine with plenty of torque and low speed. The other thing you mentioned... quality drill bits. With cheap ones, they dull slightly, so the person applies more pressure and more speed. At that point you're not drilling, you're burning a hole... right up to the point where the bit breaks.
Excellent educational video, my friend....
Triple reduction hand drills top out at 500 RPM. So theoretically they're capable of shooting a 3/4" hole into steel. You'd have to be King Kong to pull that off though. Triple reduced drills have plenty of torque too. My Milwaukee HD drills are real wrist snappers.
Metalwork is all about feeds and speeds. This is the speed formula SFPM = (π x Dia x RPM) / 12 High Speed Steel tooling working mild steel 100 SFPM is max speed. Generally I like to run twist drills at 50% of that myself. So 50 SFPM End mills I wind up to full speed. Using that formula we can see that 764 RPM would be max speed for a half inch diameter tool. Here's the derived formula for breaking out RPM from the equation RPM = SFPM / (π x (Dia / 12))
Great video…Thank-you for an excellent tutorial on this topic. How about another video on your way of sharpening drill bits!!!!!!
Great video. Very useful. I never would have thought about securing the metal to a board with screws. Wow. I would have used the tried and dangerous potential disembowelment method. Drill press on very low rpm is something I was shown in person just two weeks ago. Thank you.
Good tutorial. Titanium refers to the titanium nitride coating on the steel which helps them to last longer and look nice. That cutting oil looks like used motor oil. Its worth mentioning that keeping the tip of the bit cool, with the oil and low speeds, is critical because as soon as it overheats it looses its hardness and dulls quickly.
Liked it - Drill press is the most dangerous tool in the shop. People do not respect it especially drilling large holes
Who is the author of "Shopwork on the Farm"?
Mack M Jones , available on Amazon
harrynutz beat me to it. 👍
@@herrickkimballThanks for the recommendation! Ordered one for my shop.
Claude Hopper who else?
@@1pcfred 😄
Is there any advantage to stepping up in smaller increments of drill bit sizes, particularly if you're drilling by hand?
The small diameter of the smaller or 'pilot' drill bit is easier to drill and keep on center with the hole location. If you take a close look at a larger drill bit point it has a tendency to "walk" across the material. As an added point, the tip of a large drill bit does all of the heavy lifting so to speak in drilling a hole as the point is always in contact with the metal as it works its way thru. The rest of the bits 'shoulder cutting edges engage as the bit continues thru the hole shaving a small amount of metal as it goes. The point has the most pressure per given area = heat=wear and dulls the fastest. If you use a standard 1/8" drill bit and wear out the bit it's more easily replaced and cheaper than trying to sharpen a larger drill bit.... as explained to me in my metal shop and fabrication class in high school in 1968.
Remind newcomers to tuck the shirt in when hand drilling. Later with more experience you can let it all hang out. Right?