Morton System Saver Elite M34 Water Softener Installation
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- Morton System Saver Elite M34 Water Softener Installation. In this video, you get to see my journey installing a Morton System Saver Elite M34 water softener. This is a 34,000 grain softener. It's not a times softener that operates on set schedules. This is a use based softener that only cycles when you've used a sufficient amount of water to make it need a regeneration. If you don't use a lot of water, that could be weeks between regenerations, or if you have heavy water usage, then much more often. It will only use what's needed though, which makes it a very efficient unit.
This is NOT meant to be a how to video. This is my journey If you can get something out of it that helps you in your quest toward installing a water softener though, then that's excellent. Hopefully I can at least show you something that could help.
I got this at my local Menards hardware store. It was really easy to install, and the instructions were easy to understand. So far, I've been really happy I got it.
Floyd, Thank you for the NORMAL person instructional video. Just bought one from Menards and am installing it tomorrow. I know how to do a lot of things but have never installed a water softener. By the way, I am replacing an old Culligan model. Emerson
Awesome! Hope it went well for you. I still love mine. It's amazing how little salt it uses, and how much of a difference it made for the water quality in the house.
Thank you for posting this. We missed something when we installed it and we still had it in bypass mode. Didn’t know that til I watched your video. I hope we now can tell a difference.
I'm glad someone could get something out of this. It may not be horribly exciting, but it it can help someone in any way then I guess it's good.
Great info! I'm in Kalamazoo too! I just got my girlfriend's Morton M34 back up and running in her house in the Westnedge Hill neighborhood. She bought the house a year ago and her softener was not operating. Thanks again for the info.
That's awesome! I'm glad I could help someone local. I love the Westnedge Hill area too. There is a lot of history in that area. Metal detecting to learn the history of an area is my hobby and passion so I'm always drawn to the older areas like that, where the chances of finding those bits of history are most likely. Anyway, glad this was able to help out. So far, this unit has worked flawlessly and I couldn't be happier with it.
Great video! Wondering how it’s doing 4 years later? Looking at purchasing this same unit.
@coltwyatt9451 still works perfectly. Looks new, no build up or anything.
Just finished installing mine with new plumbing pipes. Some tips as well, those braided supply hoses are difficult to bend (used water heater hoses) so make sure your supply and outflow pipes are far enough apart (but not too short) so you don't have any kinking of the hoses. One should add a whole house water filter before the softener and a pressure regulator valve if needed.
Those are indeed pretty hard to bend. I never came close to kinking one but always wondered how hard you would have to bend it to do that. They put up a LOT of resistance to bending so I bet it would be pretty hard. I don't like to put a lot of stress on the ends though, so I try to keep them as gently routed as possible. I have a good area for water pressure so haven't had to worry about that. The filter is an interesting idea. I have really hard water with lots of calcium so I wonder if that would clog the filter too fast. I might end up spending a fortune in filters.
@@FloydNashFixItDad The whole house filter unit costs about $ 30.00 the charcoal filters are 2 for 10.00 not too costly. Change the filter about 2 times a year.
@@FloydNashFixItDad I see you had your softener for about a year now, Do you have to reset the control panel if there is a power outage, of does it keep it's memory ?
@@kommoncents0000 Thankfully, it retains all settings during a power outage, which is good. Hasn't been bad at all lately, but some years, we get a lot of power outages in the winter from ice downing limbs onto power lines somewhere.
@@FloydNashFixItDad My Morton softener working great, but a few times walking by it the word "CLEAN" was flashing on the led readout. Does your softener do this, and what does it mean ? Thanks
Thank you so much for this!! It helped me install one all by myself.
That's great! What an awesome accomplishment!
thank you, this video helps me a lot, I am a new homeowner, great job.
Thank you so much, just finished installing mine and your video was extremely helpful. I did need to modify some things since I have a different model but it was overall the same. Thanks again
Seems pretty straight forward. I do wonder if you may have an issue if you ever need the overflowIt appears to be ran higher on the wall than the discharge which in theory would make the water level have to rise to the highest point of the drain hose before beginning the overflow process.
My discharge is run higher to go into my wash room sink. The overflow is run along the floor only to a drain in the floor. All points of the overflow hose are lower than the overflow outlet on the softener
This Morton system is built and warranted by EcoWater, which produces the best water softeners to the pros
I didn't know that. Good to know. I still love it and can't believe I went so long without a water softener replacement. Showers feel so much different!
In my area, I would call 250 mg/l soft water! LOL!
Thanks for the video.
When you manually started the recharge cycle, did water flow into the tank right away or through the drain line into your deep sink? Also, how much water do you have in the brine tank normally?
Been a while, but I do believe the water flowed into the tank. You won't see much of anything there. There is just supposed to be a little bit of water at the bottom. I didn't see just how high the water got but it wasn't high. I keep my tank full of salt where I can, and when it's not cycling thru, I never actually see any water in it. The salt level has never gotten that low. I can tell when it cycles because I'll notice the salt level go down a bit, but it really doesn't use much salt at all. So far, I'm still very pleased with it. Dishes and clothes are cleaner, and I feel better during and after a shower. I don't have a lot of hair left to care about, but the kids have great results and great looking hair.
Thanks for the video! Took some tips from this as I do mine.
Great video! How much water comes out of the 2 little tubes? My crock is not near my water inlet line and trying to figure out if I need to put a whole in my wall to let it drain outside. Thank you!
The tube on the side of the tank is just an overflow tube and if all works well, nothing should come out. The other is the discharge line for the regeneration cycle and a significant amount of water comes out. You will definitely want it to discharge into a drain of some sort.
@@FloydNashFixItDad I appreciate the reply. When you say significant amount of water how much do you think? Right now I have a small hole in my basement floor that my AC evap drain goes to. It never fills with water but is almost a steady small stream in the summer. I am hoping to use that hole. Maybe make it bigger to add these 2 tubes
@@jasonfedewa1 According to the manufacture web site, about as much as a typical load of laundry. If the hole you're talking about connects to a drain, you're probably fine. If it drains into a leach field type setup where the soil below is expected to soak it up, then I don't think it would work at all.
Thank you! Tremendous help!
Good job Floyd!
I found your video to be very helpful we were just trying to make a decision on which one to buy and we are definitely going with a Morton my only problem is my water meter unfortunately is in the finished area of my basement and I want to install it in my laundry room near the hot water heater just don’t know if it has to be installed near the meter.
Hello, I hope you were able to get the system you want. As far as I know, this doesn't have to be installed near the meter, just at the point where you want the softened water. If you want whole house soft water, then you would need to position it at the point where the water comes from the street, and then gets split out to go to the rest of the house. That's probably going to be the only real place you could put it where it would be effective. If you tried to install it just for laundry, then you could only have it on the cold water supply line. This doesn't have input for hot water, and I don't think it would be good to run hot water thru it. Since you're not softening all the water that way, it really wouldn't make sense to do it.
Excellent video. Any updates?
Still working great. These systems are almost zero maintenance.
I have water coming from both lines I’m confused Witch one is intake and out
It should be labeled but when looking from the front I believe the IN is on the right side and the OUT is on the left.
Just installed water softener and it won’t start recharging. Any idea? What to do
Make sure you did that part where you tell the water softener how hard the water is, and set the salt level in the tank so it knows there is salt. Also make sure the bypass valve isn't in bypass mode. It can't get water to do a recharge if it's in bypass.
Big note: plumbers don’t like it when you “mix metals” you should have some type of Teflon or plastic between the copper and whatever type of metal that is the line for the house or the metal to metal can cause per mature erosion of the pipe lines (galvanic erosion) yes it states that it has to be electrically charged, then ahain some houses, like mine, use the pipe as a ground so it can be a problem, just be on the look out
You may not have worked with the push on connections like shark bite connectors. They use o-rings and special plastic or nylon connectors so that there is no metal on metal contact. Galvanic action needs a path to ground so isolating using the nylon or whatever is in there breaks that pathway too, not to mention that the materials of the water softener are all plastic so, again, no path to ground.
How much salt do you use a month?
The amount of salt you use depends on your water hardness, and how much water you use. Mine can vary but is usually about a bag a month.
what is the size of your steel push in pipes 3/4 inch or 1 inch ?
Mine are 1 inch. If you're not sure about yours, measure it first. The standard in my area is 1 inch, but I think some areas may have a 3/4 inch pipe as standard.
Thank you sir
Trying to figure out why mine stopped softening. Time to rip it apart lol
Try to manually cycle it. You may have to run some iron out thru it to clean the resin beads. If it manually cycles ok then the beads probably need cleaned or replaced
@@FloydNashFixItDad think I found the issue. Nozzle and venturing filters were quite gummed up. Landlord took all the paperwork with him after I installed it a few years back so had to wing it. Feeling confident at the moment that was the problem. Find out shortly
Fixed.
hi have same setup how to i disconnect so i can move whole unit away from wall for basement remodel?
You should have shutoff valves for the water supply going to the softener. Turn that off first. After that, if you remove the clips holding the bypass assembly on the softener, you can pull that whole assembly off and the softener will no longer be attached to your water supply. Careful of your drain tubes. You may have to disconnect those, and of course unplug power, and the whole unit should be able to be moved around as needed.
@@FloydNashFixItDad thanks for reply
@@FloydNashFixItDad hi again my bypass valve is below the shutoffs for the water inlet and return does that matter at all ? just turn both of those off and leave bypass open then?
@@tomclose390 If I'm understanding right, your shutoff valves are positioned so that water flows thru one, then thru the water softener and out thru the other shutoff valve. In that case, if your bypass valve is between those shutoff valves and the water softener, then for proper operation, that bypass valve needs to be closed. If you want to remove the water softener, you would basically just close all the valves. I don't understand why the bypass would be in that position though. The bypass should be between where the cold water comes into the house, and the valves on the inlet and outlet side of the softener, so that if you close those inlet and outlet valves, and open the bypass valve, water will still be supplied to the rest of the house.
@@FloydNashFixItDad
hi yes the bypass valve is below the shutoff valves Not above it. its been done wrong from what i gather and yes i have it closed when using softner. im just needing to remove softner from area for remodel so i should be ok just turning all of them off then and rest of house should have water still just not soft water? thanks for your time.
This was pretty good, but the thing that upset me most, and I’m sure for most people it’s not a big deal, was that Hutus could’ve been recorded and streamlined to run for 10 minutes instead of 29. In fact, I sped it up to 1.75x fast speed to make it faster.
Other than that it’s good
I try not to edit it to streamline too much. People feel like it's been dumbed down when you do that. I leave in my journey and describe what I see, what I experience, and as much as possible. For the homeowner that's not familiar with this, when they try to do their own install, the more feedback I can give to them, the more familiar things will be and they greater their chance for success. For those that don't need that help, feel free to fast forward and skip to the juicy bits. I have videos where I do the same, and some I want to see every millisecond of detail.