This literally is the best video I’ve seen on tying two ropes together. You gave good close up shots along with detailed explanation on benefits and drawbacks on strength of the knot, loosening the knot and ease of tying. You also included a variety of knots to accomplish this task. Great job!
I love watching about knots. My actual favorite knot is the Alpine Butterfly because it comes in handy so often for adding an attachment loop to a line where you don't have access to either bitter end. Three loops around 3 of your fingers, so you're looking at 3 laying toward you. Take the nearest and move it to the furthest position, then take the new closer one and pull it out and away, then back through the hole that your fingers leave. If done properly it will be symmetrical and have a look similar to a bowline. This is a knot that can be released after heavy load and will never fail. Per you advice, you would connect other lines with either hardware or a knot like a sheet bend. I always place high value on being able to untie a knot later. What knot would you recommend for tying a dyneema running backstay to a block w/ 1/4" or so swivel (8mm dyneema to Lewmar 72mm Sync block)?
If attaching a block for a running backstay, I would suggest splicing it with a Möbius Brummell eye splice. www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2015/12/24/mobius-brummel-eye-splice
Great knots. I have a request with some exposition: I’m doing some light log salvage. I pick up a log here, have to tow it while looking for the next, pick that up, tow, repeat. So, currently I have a strong, 7/8” line with a bowline on the end as my main tow line. Next, I’ll drive a dog (it’s like a spike with an eye on the end) into the salvage log, with a lighter 6-10ft painter attached. I’ll then tie the painter into the tow-bowline with a ‘better bowline’-angler’s loop. Effectively that’s bowline to bowline, which as you say does chafe, but has the advantage of being quick and leaves plenty of play for the next log, and next 25 logs… I understand that ideally the tow line might want to end in a 3” ring that my dog lines would then tie to, but that of corse weights the line that I need access to each time I add a log. So, security doesn’t seem to be an issue; the main tow line and its bowline are solid, and I can still untie it after a full day of heavy loading. The dog lines and their angler’s loops are fine as well, fast and easy to slip at the end of the day, no issue with loading. But chafing is defs an issue. I need to cut 8” from my main line every two months or so. My dog lines are a consumable and can stand going from 10’ down to even 2’ before they’re trash, so I don’t worry too much about that, but I can only shorten my main tow so much before it’s unsuitable as a tow, plus it isn’t cheap. I hope that’s clear. What would you recommend as a ‘better’ setup here?
Wait, it’s so obvious! Your dyneema grommet. If I tie one of those to my main tow line, that becomes the consumable and I don’t need to sacrifice any tow length. What did you call the splice? A Mobius What?
Never heard it called the "Acres Bend" before. In climbing and backpacking I always knew it as the "Zeppelin Bend." Best way I found to teach it is with the two ropes/lines in a figure 6 and figure 9, with the tail of the 6 on top and the tail of the 9 on the bottom -- lots of easy jokes, but it is memorable!
Thanks for the great memory tool! See my other comment for a recent application where I would have liked to know this knot. In my situation I ended up tying the two rigging lines together using one line as a prusik style knot (don't know it's name) ON THE OTHER LINE and it worked just fine, plus WAS easy to untie.
Really appreciate! I do tree trimming & removal as my hobby job in retirement. Had to join two 150' ropes as the pull line for a tree wanting to fall in the opposite direction of where we needed the fell. (For safety, we set up two such lines on the tree, plus a third "directional assurance" line at 90 degrees to the pull lines.) Had never run into a situation of topography needing to run such long lines over a valley to reach anchor trees. Got the job done, but perhaps not with the best knots. Because of the potential load these ropes would be under, that "Anchor Bend" looks really good for strength and ease of untying. Thank you, Doug Marder, for the "69" suggestion!
I love your tutorials. You have a great way of explaining things so that they make sense. Any chance you'll make one on how you made the rope fender? That and the monkey's fist have me in in awe. Hope you guys have a very Merry Christmas.
I won’t be making rope fenders any time soon to film it, but I did cover the construction process on the blog: www.riggingdoctor.com/search?q=Rope%20fender I added the monkey’s fist to the list of videos to make.
A splice would be the best bet. If they are three lay rope, a long splice would be ideal, closely followed by a short splice. All knots have tight bends that will cause the line to twist hard and weaken the overall strength. If you absolutely have to join them with a knot, a double sheet bend is the strongest option. It’s a permanent knot so don’t plan on separating them after you use it. The knot will be bulky so it won’t run through a windlass anymore either. Only a long splice would be able to slip through a windlass without issue.
I suggest that the two working ends of the sheetbend should come out on the same side. I have seen criticisms of this methodology (where the working ends come out on opposite sides of the standing ends) as being relatively insecure.
0:30 You showed the insecure (left-hand sheet bend). The correct sheet bend has both working ends at the same side. Also at 01:00 the Double sheet bend. The correct double sheet bend has also both working ends at the same side.
I do not know as straps would end up with a kink in them with this knot and that would cause stress and lead to failure. For straps, I would do a sheet bend as it would retain about 80% of the original strength, but be sure that as you tie it the straps stay in one plane (flat through the turns, no twists). That will make it hold better, untie later, and remain stronger. Any twist and the knot just goes straight to hell!
There seems seems to be controversy about the nomenclature of the bend described here as an 'Acre's' bend. I believe it to be the same as what is commonly referred to as a Zeppelin bend. For an interesting discussion on this knot I suggest visiting the Wikipedia article on the 'Zeppelin' bend. However, the term 'Acres' bend is not mentioned in this article. I would be interested in knowing where the term 'Acre's' bend arose? I was unable to find it with a google search.
I read about it in a really old book on knots. The Acres Bend was the same as the Zeppelin Bend, but Acres was easier for me to say and remember so that’s the name I’ve used. Guess it’s time to update my vocabulary!
I believe that the two tag ends should be on the same side or strength is reduced. I see in your video you have them on opposite sides. Also a stopper knot in the folded back line is good insurance. Most tests to failure will have this knot simply slip apart if the stopper knot is not included.
Good video. However, your double sheet bend version is not the standard version, and should be less secure. This is because in the standard version, the standing part of the thinner rope bite its rounding tail twice. Your version bite only the tail once, and is easier to slip, as shown in your final tying of it to a thicker rope ring. If you had used the standard double sheet bend version, this video would have been fully useful.
You will have to show me how to tie that knot quickly! I’ve only used it a few times because tying it took a while. I would love to know how to tie it faster! My email is riggingdr@gmail.com
You tied the sheet bend incorrectly. Pass over working end first not standing end. Also the fisherman knot is a permanent knot. That's why it's also called the impossible knot. Impossible to untie after a heavy load. Carrick bend is one of the best.
If you plan to use any of these where your life is dependent on it, I would strongly suggest doing more research on climbing specific knots. Many of these will fail under conditions that can occur during climbing. Also, for climbing, you almost always want to be using a dynamic rope, not a traditional static rope... Any time a climber is on a static rope, they maintain it in a loaded condition, as shock loading can be fatal with static ropes or tethers.
There is a pit I want to go to. Approximately 600 ft. Would a bowline knot connected to a carabiner, connected to another bowline be safe? I can’t buy a 600 ft rope.
![Connecting External Chainplates to Synthetic Standing Rigging | Sailing Wisdom [S6 Ep11]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taVvcZjfHOw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Connecting External Chainplates to Synthetic Standing Rigging | Sailing Wisdom [S6 Ep11]](/img/tr.png)
At 0:55, in the double sheet bend, shouldn't the 1st loop go under the black line, as the 2nd loop?
This literally is the best video I’ve seen on tying two ropes together. You gave good close up shots along with detailed explanation on benefits and drawbacks on strength of the knot, loosening the knot and ease of tying. You also included a variety of knots to accomplish this task. Great job!
I like how you don't tie the knots too fast so I'm able to follow exactly how your doing it as well as using two different colours of line..
CONCHO clear & concise! Love the varnished deck background.
Thanks!
I love watching about knots. My actual favorite knot is the Alpine Butterfly because it comes in handy so often for adding an attachment loop to a line where you don't have access to either bitter end. Three loops around 3 of your fingers, so you're looking at 3 laying toward you. Take the nearest and move it to the furthest position, then take the new closer one and pull it out and away, then back through the hole that your fingers leave. If done properly it will be symmetrical and have a look similar to a bowline. This is a knot that can be released after heavy load and will never fail. Per you advice, you would connect other lines with either hardware or a knot like a sheet bend. I always place high value on being able to untie a knot later. What knot would you recommend for tying a dyneema running backstay to a block w/ 1/4" or so swivel (8mm dyneema to Lewmar 72mm Sync block)?
Captain AJ's knot class w/ Drake Paragon is an oldie but goodie. His "flying bowline" always looked like some kind of circus trick.
If attaching a block for a running backstay, I would suggest splicing it with a Möbius Brummell eye splice.
www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2015/12/24/mobius-brummel-eye-splice
TFS well explained and should help lots of folks understand the need for different knots.
Great knots. I have a request with some exposition:
I’m doing some light log salvage. I pick up a log here, have to tow it while looking for the next, pick that up, tow, repeat. So, currently I have a strong, 7/8” line with a bowline on the end as my main tow line. Next, I’ll drive a dog (it’s like a spike with an eye on the end) into the salvage log, with a lighter 6-10ft painter attached. I’ll then tie the painter into the tow-bowline with a ‘better bowline’-angler’s loop. Effectively that’s bowline to bowline, which as you say does chafe, but has the advantage of being quick and leaves plenty of play for the next log, and next 25 logs… I understand that ideally the tow line might want to end in a 3” ring that my dog lines would then tie to, but that of corse weights the line that I need access to each time I add a log.
So, security doesn’t seem to be an issue; the main tow line and its bowline are solid, and I can still untie it after a full day of heavy loading. The dog lines and their angler’s loops are fine as well, fast and easy to slip at the end of the day, no issue with loading. But chafing is defs an issue. I need to cut 8” from my main line every two months or so. My dog lines are a consumable and can stand going from 10’ down to even 2’ before they’re trash, so I don’t worry too much about that, but I can only shorten my main tow so much before it’s unsuitable as a tow, plus it isn’t cheap.
I hope that’s clear. What would you recommend as a ‘better’ setup here?
Wait, it’s so obvious! Your dyneema grommet. If I tie one of those to my main tow line, that becomes the consumable and I don’t need to sacrifice any tow length. What did you call the splice? A Mobius What?
Very helpful Herby, I save all your instructional videos.
Thanks! I also add them to a playlist of How To videos.
Thanks for this. Just used the Double Fisherman's Knot to make the strings of my blinds longer with some thin paracord :)
👍
Ha! I thought you were saying "sheep end". Very good tutorial, thank you! Upvoted & subscribed.
Never heard it called the "Acres Bend" before. In climbing and backpacking I always knew it as the "Zeppelin Bend." Best way I found to teach it is with the two ropes/lines in a figure 6 and figure 9, with the tail of the 6 on top and the tail of the 9 on the bottom -- lots of easy jokes, but it is memorable!
That is a great way to remember it!
Thanks for the great memory tool! See my other comment for a recent application where I would have liked to know this knot. In my situation I ended up tying the two rigging lines together using one line as a prusik style knot (don't know it's name) ON THE OTHER LINE and it worked just fine, plus WAS easy to untie.
Really appreciate!
I do tree trimming & removal as my hobby job in retirement.
Had to join two 150' ropes as the pull line for a tree wanting to fall in the opposite direction of where we needed the fell. (For safety, we set up two such lines on the tree, plus a third "directional assurance" line at 90 degrees to the pull lines.)
Had never run into a situation of topography needing to run such long lines over a valley to reach anchor trees.
Got the job done, but perhaps not with the best knots.
Because of the potential load these ropes would be under, that "Anchor Bend" looks really good for strength and ease of untying.
Thank you, Doug Marder, for the "69" suggestion!
Handy to know even if you don't sail. I find I only need about 5 knots on my boat so far
Great refresher, thanks for posting!
👍
7:51 thought he was gonna say , so remember ....size matters ...but thank you sir , you helped me fix my VR headset band haha
I'd love to see you demonstrate that very useful knot, the one-handed bowline.
I have seen it done but never tried it. I should give it a shot!
I love your tutorials. You have a great way of explaining things so that they make sense. Any chance you'll make one on how you made the rope fender? That and the monkey's fist have me in in awe. Hope you guys have a very Merry Christmas.
I won’t be making rope fenders any time soon to film it, but I did cover the construction process on the blog:
www.riggingdoctor.com/search?q=Rope%20fender
I added the monkey’s fist to the list of videos to make.
Can I use the Fisherman knot to join two anchor ropes together? I have a 50m anchor and want to add another 100m. Thanks
A splice would be the best bet. If they are three lay rope, a long splice would be ideal, closely followed by a short splice.
All knots have tight bends that will cause the line to twist hard and weaken the overall strength.
If you absolutely have to join them with a knot, a double sheet bend is the strongest option. It’s a permanent knot so don’t plan on separating them after you use it. The knot will be bulky so it won’t run through a windlass anymore either. Only a long splice would be able to slip through a windlass without issue.
What about the carrik bend, which has been my go-to to connect two lines togeather forever?
It’s a beautiful knot!
I am making a bridle for my dinghy. What would you suggest for the knot at the wye. All lines are dyneema.
I use an alpine butterfly knot in the middle and it’s held up well over the years and miles.
I suggest that the two working ends of the sheetbend should come out on the same side. I have seen criticisms of this methodology (where the working ends come out on opposite sides of the standing ends) as being relatively insecure.
0:30 You showed the insecure (left-hand sheet bend). The correct sheet bend has both working ends at the same side.
Also at 01:00 the Double sheet bend. The correct double sheet bend has also both working ends at the same side.
Nice bro
Will the two-fishermen-knot method work for tow straps? Will the tension limit be at least as strong as the original straps?
I do not know as straps would end up with a kink in them with this knot and that would cause stress and lead to failure.
For straps, I would do a sheet bend as it would retain about 80% of the original strength, but be sure that as you tie it the straps stay in one plane (flat through the turns, no twists). That will make it hold better, untie later, and remain stronger. Any twist and the knot just goes straight to hell!
Great demonstration! How would you compare the double fisherman to the Flemish or figure 8 bend?
There seems seems to be controversy about the nomenclature of the bend described here as an 'Acre's' bend. I believe it to be the same as what is commonly referred to as a Zeppelin bend. For an interesting discussion on this knot I suggest visiting the Wikipedia article on the 'Zeppelin' bend. However, the term 'Acres' bend is not mentioned in this article. I would be interested in knowing where the term 'Acre's' bend arose? I was unable to find it with a google search.
I read about it in a really old book on knots. The Acres Bend was the same as the Zeppelin Bend, but Acres was easier for me to say and remember so that’s the name I’ve used. Guess it’s time to update my vocabulary!
I believe that the two tag ends should be on the same side or strength is reduced. I see in your video you have them on opposite sides. Also a stopper knot in the folded back line is good insurance. Most tests to failure will have this knot simply slip apart if the stopper knot is not included.
Good video. However, your double sheet bend version is not the standard version, and should be less secure. This is because in the standard version, the standing part of the thinner rope bite its rounding tail twice. Your version bite only the tail once, and is easier to slip, as shown in your final tying of it to a thicker rope ring. If you had used the standard double sheet bend version, this video would have been fully useful.
Thank you for the feedback, we will make a correct video soon
Haven't seen that Acres bend before, but my immediate thought was that it forms the connection needed for a twizzle rig sail set up.
Isn’t the tail supposed to go through the bend on the double sheet bend instead of just wrapping around the standing end again
Yep, think you are right.
Yes. I have always put it though twice but looking a herbie’s one, taking it around the rope gives a good grip on the standing rope
Yes, like a fishermans knot. Through both loops
Interesting..l like it
Could you compare Dyneema vs Spectra.
These are trade names for the same material.
Dyneema is made by DSM
Spectra is made by DuPont
The Carrick bend? The only knot named after a person. And there is a really easy way to tie it.
You will have to show me how to tie that knot quickly! I’ve only used it a few times because tying it took a while. I would love to know how to tie it faster!
My email is riggingdr@gmail.com
What about thief knot ?
You tied the sheet bend incorrectly. Pass over working end first not standing end. Also the fisherman knot is a permanent knot. That's why it's also called the impossible knot. Impossible to untie after a heavy load. Carrick bend is one of the best.
Thanks for the pointers! I need to practice the Carrick bend more.
Zeppelin bend is superior, I must say.
It is the most noble of knots!
Who turned on closed caption(CC) and watched this more than once...
Your heetbend has the working ends coming out on opposite sides of the knot. They should be coming out on the same side. ABOK
Good point. I will take a look at ABOK and reevaluate
Say...you're pretty knowledgeable for a young whipper snapper. (^L^)
Thank you :)
Well, maybe "whipper" is more accurate/appropriate (we haven't seen him snapping, eh?) 🤩
If you plan to use any of these where your life is dependent on it, I would strongly suggest doing more research on climbing specific knots. Many of these will fail under conditions that can occur during climbing. Also, for climbing, you almost always want to be using a dynamic rope, not a traditional static rope... Any time a climber is on a static rope, they maintain it in a loaded condition, as shock loading can be fatal with static ropes or tethers.
This is for sailing, not climbing.
!
There is a pit I want to go to. Approximately 600 ft.
Would a bowline knot connected to a carabiner, connected to another bowline be safe? I can’t buy a 600 ft rope.
What about splicing them together? Splicing is the strongest method of connecting them.