They are pretty good. The shank is a bit shorter than the Tormach ones, I think I'm going to move my 1/2" tools to the Tormach holders in hope they are better at not pulling out. I've had my 1/2" tool pull out of the TTS collet a few times when roughing above 4 in^3 MMR with the Darkon's, so I'm gonna see if it's better with the Tormachs.
I`m a half assed machinist and have been doing all my smith work on a old Cincinnati mill. I`m in the process of building my first 1911, so I`m trying to get as much info as I can on milling the rails and fixing any possible errors. I was wondering why instead of welding on material and then removing it why you did`t go with the "peening" method of taking up rail play ? From what I`v read it seems to be a good method for removing both lateral and vertical play ? Just wanted to hear your thoughts on it...
+TWISTEDSTRINGS69 I want all the metal in the bearing surfaces, not just localized areas like you get with peening. And it was a fun welding challenge that I wanted to try. You need to keep as much heat out as possible, so I had the frame sitting in water while welding.
+jdrinkh2o Thanks for getting back to me on this. I to probably would have also accept that challenge, nothing better then going the long way around and making it work out better... If my 1911buils goes well I think I want to try and build a double stack 2011.. Thanks for the vids, keep up the good work.
Excelente vídeo gostei muito meus parabéns, excelente profissional.
👍🏻 for the child in the background
They are pretty good. The shank is a bit shorter than the Tormach ones, I think I'm going to move my 1/2" tools to the Tormach holders in hope they are better at not pulling out. I've had my 1/2" tool pull out of the TTS collet a few times when roughing above 4 in^3 MMR with the Darkon's, so I'm gonna see if it's better with the Tormachs.
What tolerance are you using for slide to rail gap?
I`m a half assed machinist and have been doing all my smith work on a old Cincinnati mill. I`m in the process of building my first 1911, so I`m trying to get as much info as I can on milling the rails and fixing any possible errors. I was wondering why instead of welding on material and then removing it why you did`t go with the "peening" method of taking up rail play ? From what I`v read it seems to be a good method for removing both lateral and vertical play ? Just wanted to hear your thoughts on it...
+TWISTEDSTRINGS69 I want all the metal in the bearing surfaces, not just localized areas like you get with peening. And it was a fun welding challenge that I wanted to try. You need to keep as much heat out as possible, so I had the frame sitting in water while welding.
+jdrinkh2o Thanks for getting back to me on this. I to probably would have also accept that challenge, nothing better then going the long way around and making it work out better... If my 1911buils goes well I think I want to try and build a double stack 2011.. Thanks for the vids, keep up the good work.
keep comping!
What Cnc mill are you using?
Wondering that as well. What cnc mill?
nice
What hapen.....no working. .
No polish ....no working.
Call me