Update: I found the correct psi rating fuel pump for my cj7. (pump #ep3901 and other cross referenced #s)... Now I NEED to mod my sending unit to hold the pump. Any in depth videos would be great..
I noticed that you did not have and cover plate to seal top of tank up. Does this also come in the kit?, or do I need t make one from another tank? Just installed the factory type stainless type tank in 68 Pontiac Firebird and do not have another stainless tank around. Thanks for the vidio and please let me know. Thanks Fred.
Some Mopar car... Another option is to retrofit a modern (plastic) fuel tank from a newer factory EFI car to your classic. Save work, and weight. You can even cut an access panel in the body so you never have to drop the tank again
Hi. Just letting you know I did cut an access hole in the tub to make it easier to change out my fuel sending unit. Wasn't hard. Worst part was dropping the fuel tank.. (again.) Now I just need to modify my sending unit for the cj7 with an electric fuel pump. :)
COuld you recommend a fuel pump/sender combo for a gm tbi conversion on my cj7 jeep? I only am looking for a max of 15 psi. Also, I am using MTS Plastic tank #0051 AND the easier the better for me... Thanks for the video. :)
you didn't happen to mention the fact that you can blow you ass to kingdom come if you start grinding on a tank that hasnt been thoroughly depleted of ALL gas fumes...
I would never put a fuel pump in a gas tank. Pumps quit and I'll be damned if I am going make it difficult to replace one. Let the car manufacturers be the stupid ones to make repairs a pain in the ass.
@Jon Baker. My standard procedure is to not do what the factories do and that is put fuel pumps in gas tanks. I can put a replacement fuel pump on my collector cars in a very short time even by the side of the road. In the tank? The hell with that. It's too bad the car manufacturers don't care about how hard new cars are to work on.
@@bottmar1 How often has this been a probelem? How many times does your fuel pump fail on the side of the road? It's quieter inside the tank than out on the frame rail. Factories are pretty clever places, don't write them off.
@Jon Baker. You are defending the loser. Outside the tank pumps can be made quiet. I have had fuel pumps fail on these new fool infected cars and have been stranded. Any time I had a fuel pump fail on a carbureted car I got the CHEAPER fuel pump out of the trunk and was driving down the road 30 minutes later. One time stranded is too much so this b.s. statement you made where fuel pumps in tanks don't fail very often isn't very valueable. I have been in the car repair business for 52 years and have learned during that time that repairability is just as important as reliability. You state that the manufacturers of vehicles are clever? They can complicate everything under the hood to the point that the customer can barely work on their own car at home but the designer can't even figure out which side the fuel filler should be on. That's really clever. They have exspensive computer modules that have replaced cheap relays for virtually EVERY system which can't be tested with an ordinary test light. That little bit of clever didn't do much for us victims. The ONLY thing of value is the greater fuel economy that larger gas engines get. And I say larger engines as j consistently get similar mileage on small four cylinder carbureted cars. Even fool infected motorcycles don't get better gas mileage. I have a 250 Yamaha Virago (carbureted) that has never gotten less than 67 m.p.g. and over the road gets 82 up to 92 m.p.g. consistently. My Harleys get 46 m.p.g. And higher. I do not like vehicles that are a pain in the ass to work on and will not build street rods or anything that is high tech and hard for my customers to repair. They are welcome to go someplace else. Try and convince someone else about fuel pumps in tanks don't matter but you won't succeed with me. Oh say, one more thing. The header pipes on my 94 Ford Ranger are bolted to the manifolds instead of using studs. Bolts make it impossible to remove the header pipes without MAJOR work. Clever is not the proper word for car manufacturers. Have a good day.😀
@@bottmar1 Well I hope that was cathartic for you. enjoy your harleys, your ranger and your life. You obviously know everything so there is no room for other opinions. Good day sir.
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I noticed that you did not add or fabed a inner tray so that the pump does not run dry.
Update: I found the correct psi rating fuel pump for my cj7. (pump #ep3901 and other cross referenced #s)... Now I NEED to mod my sending unit to hold the pump.
Any in depth videos would be great..
I noticed that you did not have and cover plate to seal top of tank up. Does this also come in the kit?, or do I need t make one from another tank? Just installed the factory type stainless type tank in 68 Pontiac Firebird and do not have another stainless tank around. Thanks for the vidio and please let me know. Thanks Fred.
Did you ever hear back about the cover plate for the tank? I have the same question.
Some Mopar car... Another option is to retrofit a modern (plastic) fuel tank from a newer factory EFI car to your classic. Save work, and weight. You can even cut an access panel in the body so you never have to drop the tank again
Hi. Just letting you know I did cut an access hole in the tub to make it easier to change out my fuel sending unit. Wasn't hard. Worst part was dropping the fuel tank.. (again.) Now I just need to modify my sending unit for the cj7 with an electric fuel pump. :)
What are those brass things called that the access panel bolts go into
Those are 1/2" nutserts. Thanks for watching!
COuld you recommend a fuel pump/sender combo for a gm tbi conversion on my cj7 jeep? I only am looking for a max of 15 psi.
Also, I am using MTS Plastic tank #0051
AND the easier the better for me...
Thanks for the video. :)
what is the car in the vid, looks similar to my father's 67 belvedere
This system doesn't use a fuel reservoir.
you didn't happen to mention the fact that you can blow you ass to kingdom come if you start grinding on a tank that hasnt been thoroughly depleted of ALL gas fumes...
Yea I’m curious how they vented all the fumes. I see too many idiots talk about how not to do it. Yet no one comes in to explain how to do it safely.
Fill the gas tank with an inert gas or rinse the shit out of it & blow air thru it for a few hours then let your buddy go at it 😜
I would never put a fuel pump in a gas tank. Pumps quit and I'll be damned if I am going make it difficult to replace one. Let the car manufacturers be the stupid ones to make repairs a pain in the ass.
Standard procedure in new cars is drop the tank, replace the pump, re-install. This would be exactly the same.
@Jon Baker. My standard procedure is to not do what the factories do and that is put fuel pumps in gas tanks. I can put a replacement fuel pump on my collector cars in a very short time even by the side of the road. In the tank? The hell with that. It's too bad the car manufacturers don't care about how hard new cars are to work on.
@@bottmar1 How often has this been a probelem? How many times does your fuel pump fail on the side of the road?
It's quieter inside the tank than out on the frame rail.
Factories are pretty clever places, don't write them off.
@Jon Baker. You are defending the loser. Outside the tank pumps can be made quiet. I have had fuel pumps fail on these new fool infected cars and have been stranded. Any time I had a fuel pump fail on a carbureted car I got the CHEAPER fuel pump out of the trunk and was driving down the road 30 minutes later. One time stranded is too much so this b.s. statement you made where fuel pumps in tanks don't fail very often isn't very valueable. I have been in the car repair business for 52 years and have learned during that time that repairability is just as important as reliability. You state that the manufacturers of vehicles are clever? They can complicate everything under the hood to the point that the customer can barely work on their own car at home but the designer can't even figure out which side the fuel filler should be on. That's really clever. They have exspensive computer modules that have replaced cheap relays for virtually EVERY system which can't be tested with an ordinary test light. That little bit of clever didn't do much for us victims. The ONLY thing of value is the greater fuel economy that larger gas engines get. And I say larger engines as j consistently get similar mileage on small four cylinder carbureted cars. Even fool infected motorcycles don't get better gas mileage. I have a 250 Yamaha Virago (carbureted) that has never gotten less than 67 m.p.g. and over the road gets 82 up to 92 m.p.g. consistently. My Harleys get 46 m.p.g. And higher. I do not like vehicles that are a pain in the ass to work on and will not build street rods or anything that is high tech and hard for my customers to repair. They are welcome to go someplace else. Try and convince someone else about fuel pumps in tanks don't matter but you won't succeed with me. Oh say, one more thing. The header pipes on my 94 Ford Ranger are bolted to the manifolds instead of using studs. Bolts make it impossible to remove the header pipes without MAJOR work. Clever is not the proper word for car manufacturers. Have a good day.😀
@@bottmar1 Well I hope that was cathartic for you. enjoy your harleys, your ranger and your life. You obviously know everything so there is no room for other opinions.
Good day sir.