Amazing... you know, I bought myself a fretpress, and now I think to myself, why I did that. Dan, you always impress me with these simple ideas, that just work as well, and clearly show, what real DIY is all about: getting creative with what you already got!
Wow, the neck is very interesting, and I can't wait to hear it when it's done. I also really enjoy your fret press! I never thought of doing it that way on the few necks I've needed to fret myself, but that's a really good (and cheap) idea! Interesting laser prototype. Again, looks like it gives a lot of ideas and flexibility, and I love putting the design inlay on the neck. So overall, that's just awesome, and looking forward to seeing and hearing the finished product.
Cloth iron is what I use to remove fretboard. Leave it on for around 5 minutes on highest setting then use a paint palette knife to slide it under, sometimes a thin ruler but I found palette knife works best for me. Great idea on the fretslot cutting technique! Gonna use the same for my next project.
Totally agree. I used an iron to remove a fret board as well as a set neck from a guitar I was building and messed up. Got it right the second time. And was able to reuse the same fret board. The iron caused no damage.
Dan, thank you for pointing out the website multiscale. Im building a 7 string fan fret, and the fan fret length is quite big compared to the one you chose, and really it just needs the right length to put the fixed bridges. Awesome stuff! Also the masking of fret saw, the masking of frets below 12th fret for fallout fret leveling, and the cauls for fret press, that was a really good solution for us small businesses/hobbyist to make. Love this channel.
I’ve had this idea for the longest time but never actually pulled the trigger, awesome to see it Looks FANTASTIC!! Also, an easy way to remove a fretboard is with a dull knife, one that’s not thick but it’s dull (exact opposite of that chiesel, that’s why it broke). You can work your way up the fretboard with patience and it should come off very cleanly using a heatgun and being careful
Dan, that neck looks amazing. I’m not usually into fan frets. This one does it for me. But those Double J Quad Rails, it’ll be interesting to hear how they sound on your prototype. Can’t wait to see that.
Just a thought but instead of drilling so deep for your fretmarker dots on the side of the neck. Why not drill really shallow holes and cut little pieces of the rods and put those in. You would save a lot of that fret dot rods if so. Pretty sure that's how they are normally done too.
Nice! In love that f hole on your bass. Also find that pickguard much better looking. I take the guards off of all my bases because I think they all look terrible. Dingwall has the only ones I tend to like. I could see myself leaving this one on.
I usually use an iron to heat the board (better heat transfer), then use a putty knife or scraper to lift the board with the frets in. That chisel put too much strain on the FB for it to remain intact.
I just finished the first neck I ever made and its a multiscale 7 string guitar, I made my template using FreeCAD Marz guitar to build a fretboard model and then converted it to SVG and printed it off. A miter saw would definitely be way better for doing the initial cut but doing it exclusively with a hand saw wasn't too terrible.
A local old-school luthier uses a steamer he made, that has a needle like end on a hose. That with a combination of a clothing iron and wet rags, he gets fingerboards off in one piece!
darnit Dan... now I have to look at a different laser. Honestly my Ortur is fine for what I'm doing currently, but that new one you have looks really nice
Your bass looks to be my favorite design yet. I like the semi-hollow. On the quad coil, I like to keep things simple from an operators point of view, so could you have 4 3way switches to control each vertical pair of coils? Each switch could be selected for top, bottom, or both. That way you could just look and see what is on or off.
An easier way to remove the fretboard is to use a cloth iron and a cake knife or the back of a flush cut saw. Heat with iron then slowly push the knife down the heated area. It’ll pop of real easy and the fretboard will be reusable when your done. I’ve used this method three times with great success to replace broken truss rods!
You should do a kids guitar buildoff. I would love someone to do a neck toddlers who are interested in can actually reach. Maybe use a 3 string cigar box but get 6 in it?
Now all I need is to see you expand your Behemoth line into 5, 6 and maybe even 7- string or double-neck basses,- however way you´d come by the necks,- have them with fan frets and/or fretless and I´d be very interested in looking into having myself a custom built Dan Thompson Behemoth Special,- and have it shipped all the way to me here in Scandinavia.
Hey Dan... Using ya drillpress is cool for the frets ... Using a scissor jack or something similar under the table of the drill press will make it a lot more stable and be able to apply more pressure if needed
I think the best way to fix a twist like that would be to pull all the frets and soak the neck in water. Then place the neck fretboard down onto a hard surface that will not bend such as a thick workbench (possibly with something like a couple of rulers you could tuck in each side to allow for the curvature of the fretboard) and clamp the neck down to said surface. Hopefully once the water dissapates the wood should settle in a straight configuration at which point you could release the clamps and install some new frets. That way you should be spending much less time doing the repair although the time taken to put the neck back into surface would be longer. That bass you are working on looks like it will be something I would want to own. The pickup looks very interesting, I bet you could do all sorts of interesting wiring with that. I am thinking P bass, reverse P, inline front and rear and that's only thinking of the one pickup. Trying to wire in all the options for a dual set has got to be a bit of a nightmare.
Removed that fretboard the hard way. A clothes iron resting on the frets gets the heat to transfer faster.... Takes me about 20 to 30 minutes, and most of the time the fretboard comes off intact.
If you have an instrument with a standard bridge but you want to make a multiscale neck for it, and you don't want to be limited by the orientation of that standard bridge, simply set the parallel fret to something like 1000 in a good online fret calculator. The effect will be that the playing area has no parallel fret and the fan will get more and more subtle as the neck is traversed toward the higher register. See Strandberg guitars to visualize it better. Btw... This was a bit like watching someone cook a meal while really drunk. Pretty messy, but you got there lol
I was wondering why you were chopping off the end of the leveling beam until I saw the drill press. That's $65 saved over the Stew Mac fret caul, clever! My DIY project is at the routing stage and has been for months. Now I just need to take a router to it >_> I did recently redesign the body shape, though, and the neck is ready to go! My SRC6 I refinished in black (Minwax True Black) is about to be reassembled tonight! As I type this I'm hitting 24 hours for the dry time on the Rustoleum matte clear coat :D So, time to put it back together and reinstall the electronics! And then the Soviet Formanta bass... Projects, projects, projects. And I already have an idea for another after finding a short scale neck for $75 >_> Thanks for sharing! I'd be tempted to sacrifice a few frets if I could get 35" on the bass side somehow.
You should do some research on how to do this. A thin spatula type tool will pry the board off at an angle that is not so severe. The chisel bends the wood past the breaking point. It is much easier and cheaper to learn from others mistakes than to make them again while reinventing the wheel.
would love to see a guitar that looks fanned fret but isn't, all the frets, individual bridge saddles, and nut are just paralell at the same 15 degree angle.
Was surprised that fretboard didn’t come off cleanly- I have done this a few times- used an iron…came off pretty easily. I wonder how it was glued down.
I wanted to try an iron but couldn’t find one, that could have been the issue. Might try it again with an iron if I can grab one cheap at a thrift store
So the warping was from the fingerboard? Definitely would love to see a review on that new laser! It really has peaked my interest! Have you tried engraving gun slides yet?
Hi Dan, are you still using the basswood sheets from Hobby Lobby for your pickguards? I tried it for one of my builds, but was unsatisfied with the results. I found that Michaels sells 12”x5.25” sheets of PINE. I glued two together to make a pickguard. Not only does the grain look nicer, but it is significantly sturdier than the basswood. I highly recommend you try it
I got way better results using just 2 spatulas and going from the opposite side (since from the nut side, usually the fretboard is thinner due to the (d'oh) nut having a recess.....and no water needed at all, just a warm iron (the one for the clothes, nothing fanzy) and I applied it directly on the fretts, so the heat remains longer, and also applying heat directly to each spatula.....after struggling for 10min the first inch, eventually the spatulas started to move like into butter accross the neck (the chisel is way too thick and will cause what alredy happened here, which is to crack the fretboard...doing this work like this, I manage to remove the whole fretboard in a single piece, and the frets didn/t even came out, literally I can glue the freatboard in another neck if I want.
Nope. It was a 34” 24 fret neck. I made it a 34.25-33.75” multiscale 24 fret. Just need to make sure my bridge saddles can move back ~1/8th on the low string, and forward ~1/8th” on the high string.
@@GunsandGuitars that’s so sad. There’s been this same as in Facebook and Instagram saying there offering 15% off. But all the comments are extremely negative saying they never got their orders but still had payments taken.
@@LukeShingoose think about it for a second or two. Once you fret your B string at the first fret, is your first fret any higher than your second fret, and does it need to be higher?
@@vanshankguitars I think you need to think about it for a second because what you’re saying is wrong and matter of opinion. Like I said, a lot of manufacturers use taller frets than the rest for a zero fret, which is simply a fact. If you take a strandberg for example, a guitar that has thought and purpose behind every feature lists clearly on the site the fret sizes used and you can see that a the Boden bass uses a zero fret that is 0.006” taller than the rest. Sure you can make your guitars zero fret the same size as the other but to say that it’s the only way is completely different. It at best is a matter of opinion which isn’t the argument I was making. For that sake you can say zero frets are vastly inferior to an actual nut or whatever you want to argue.
You live in a part of the country where Home Cheapot sells maple and walnut? I hate you. :D Down here in FL all we get is red oak, poplar, and pine. **SIGH**
Amazing... you know, I bought myself a fretpress, and now I think to myself, why I did that. Dan, you always impress me with these simple ideas, that just work as well, and clearly show, what real DIY is all about: getting creative with what you already got!
Wow, the neck is very interesting, and I can't wait to hear it when it's done. I also really enjoy your fret press! I never thought of doing it that way on the few necks I've needed to fret myself, but that's a really good (and cheap) idea!
Interesting laser prototype. Again, looks like it gives a lot of ideas and flexibility, and I love putting the design inlay on the neck.
So overall, that's just awesome, and looking forward to seeing and hearing the finished product.
Cloth iron is what I use to remove fretboard. Leave it on for around 5 minutes on highest setting then use a paint palette knife to slide it under, sometimes a thin ruler but I found palette knife works best for me.
Great idea on the fretslot cutting technique! Gonna use the same for my next project.
Totally agree. I used an iron to remove a fret board as well as a set neck from a guitar I was building and messed up. Got it right the second time. And was able to reuse the same fret board. The iron caused no damage.
I admire your skill, sir. Your ability to get creative and adapt never ceases to amaze me!
Dan, thank you for pointing out the website multiscale. Im building a 7 string fan fret, and the fan fret length is quite big compared to the one you chose, and really it just needs the right length to put the fixed bridges. Awesome stuff!
Also the masking of fret saw, the masking of frets below 12th fret for fallout fret leveling, and the cauls for fret press, that was a really good solution for us small businesses/hobbyist to make. Love this channel.
Good job dan. Progress is awesome. Cant wait to see a short scale 6 string prototype
Awesome I was hoping for a video today
Already know it’s going to be great work, so great work
I am always inspired to step up my game, when you do videos like this!
Love your fret-press! Making it from a drill press is a great idea!
This was fantastic.
Can't wait to see it installed on the body
Thats a great combo for your own enjoyment...Can't wait to see it progress....
Great job Dan. I always hand cut fret slots after the radius, that way it isn’t deeper than it needs to be in the middle👍
I’ve had this idea for the longest time but never actually pulled the trigger, awesome to see it
Looks FANTASTIC!!
Also, an easy way to remove a fretboard is with a dull knife, one that’s not thick but it’s dull (exact opposite of that chiesel, that’s why it broke). You can work your way up the fretboard with patience and it should come off very cleanly using a heatgun and being careful
Way more work than it's worth!
Well done sir! Nice workmanship
Wow! Dan you can do anything very well 😊
Cool project! Great work!
Wow Dan, AMAZING!
Bass looks good. I think it will look better without a pickguard. Love your fret press solution.
Can't wait to see how this one works out and how it sounds!
Dan, that neck looks amazing. I’m not usually into fan frets. This one does it for me.
But those Double J Quad Rails, it’ll be interesting to hear how they sound on your prototype. Can’t wait to see that.
Great video buddy!! Oh, and great way to repurpose that “spray” bottle 😆😷
Can't wait for the next part.
Dude this multiscale feature is a must have!
Just a thought but instead of drilling so deep for your fretmarker dots on the side of the neck. Why not drill really shallow holes and cut little pieces of the rods and put those in. You would save a lot of that fret dot rods if so. Pretty sure that's how they are normally done too.
Hey cool using the drill press!
Nice! In love that f hole on your bass. Also find that pickguard much better looking. I take the guards off of all my bases because I think they all look terrible. Dingwall has the only ones I tend to like. I could see myself leaving this one on.
I usually use an iron to heat the board (better heat transfer), then use a putty knife or scraper to lift the board with the frets in. That chisel put too much strain on the FB for it to remain intact.
Thanks I’ll try that next time!
I just finished the first neck I ever made and its a multiscale 7 string guitar, I made my template using FreeCAD Marz guitar to build a fretboard model and then converted it to SVG and printed it off. A miter saw would definitely be way better for doing the initial cut but doing it exclusively with a hand saw wasn't too terrible.
Finally going into the weird/fanned/headless guitar madness, let's gooo !
You get the fretboard and the truss road intact ir you use an iron (the one for the clothes) and a spatula, then you plain both and glue them back👌👌👌
A local old-school luthier uses a steamer he made, that has a needle like end on a hose. That with a combination of a clothing iron and wet rags, he gets fingerboards off in one piece!
darnit Dan... now I have to look at a different laser.
Honestly my Ortur is fine for what I'm doing currently, but that new one you have looks really nice
Awesome
Your bass looks to be my favorite design yet. I like the semi-hollow. On the quad coil, I like to keep things simple from an operators point of view, so could you have 4 3way switches to control each vertical pair of coils? Each switch could be selected for top, bottom, or both. That way you could just look and see what is on or off.
try using a clothes iron on the fretboard... even heat all across the board
I love the Dan Thompson way!
An easier way to remove the fretboard is to use a cloth iron and a cake knife or the back of a flush cut saw. Heat with iron then slowly push the knife down the heated area. It’ll pop of real easy and the fretboard will be reusable when your done. I’ve used this method three times with great success to replace broken truss rods!
Awesome thanks for the tip! I’ll try that next time
You should do a kids guitar buildoff. I would love someone to do a neck toddlers who are interested in can actually reach. Maybe use a 3 string cigar box but get 6 in it?
I got mine out in one piece quick too. I wish I could show you how. I feel like I owe you.
You just saved me like $60 on an arbor press. I'm running out of excuses to finish this kit build I've had sitting for 5 years now😅
Now all I need is to see you expand your Behemoth line into 5, 6 and maybe even 7- string or double-neck basses,- however way you´d come by the necks,- have them with fan frets and/or fretless and I´d be very interested in looking into having myself a custom built Dan Thompson Behemoth Special,- and have it shipped all the way to me here in Scandinavia.
Funny should mention the walnut blanks at Home Depot for a fret board . Its what I do . Just bought some yesterday .
Hey Dan...
Using ya drillpress is cool for the frets ...
Using a scissor jack or something similar under the table of the drill press will make it a lot more stable and be able to apply more pressure if needed
Great idea!
I think the best way to fix a twist like that would be to pull all the frets and soak the neck in water. Then place the neck fretboard down onto a hard surface that will not bend such as a thick workbench (possibly with something like a couple of rulers you could tuck in each side to allow for the curvature of the fretboard) and clamp the neck down to said surface. Hopefully once the water dissapates the wood should settle in a straight configuration at which point you could release the clamps and install some new frets. That way you should be spending much less time doing the repair although the time taken to put the neck back into surface would be longer.
That bass you are working on looks like it will be something I would want to own. The pickup looks very interesting, I bet you could do all sorts of interesting wiring with that. I am thinking P bass, reverse P, inline front and rear and that's only thinking of the one pickup. Trying to wire in all the options for a dual set has got to be a bit of a nightmare.
I’ve been looking for pickups that can do that WELL for a long time..
interesting - Thank you
Oooh, I want those pickups. Pair that with a low pass filter and you'd be in Wal territory....
Removed that fretboard the hard way. A clothes iron resting on the frets gets the heat to transfer faster.... Takes me about 20 to 30 minutes, and most of the time the fretboard comes off intact.
If you have an instrument with a standard bridge but you want to make a multiscale neck for it, and you don't want to be limited by the orientation of that standard bridge, simply set the parallel fret to something like 1000 in a good online fret calculator. The effect will be that the playing area has no parallel fret and the fan will get more and more subtle as the neck is traversed toward the higher register. See Strandberg guitars to visualize it better.
Btw...
This was a bit like watching someone cook a meal while really drunk. Pretty messy, but you got there lol
I was wondering why you were chopping off the end of the leveling beam until I saw the drill press. That's $65 saved over the Stew Mac fret caul, clever!
My DIY project is at the routing stage and has been for months. Now I just need to take a router to it >_> I did recently redesign the body shape, though, and the neck is ready to go!
My SRC6 I refinished in black (Minwax True Black) is about to be reassembled tonight! As I type this I'm hitting 24 hours for the dry time on the Rustoleum matte clear coat :D So, time to put it back together and reinstall the electronics!
And then the Soviet Formanta bass...
Projects, projects, projects. And I already have an idea for another after finding a short scale neck for $75 >_>
Thanks for sharing! I'd be tempted to sacrifice a few frets if I could get 35" on the bass side somehow.
You might get 35” if you have the space to move your bridge back a little
@@GunsandGuitars yeah, that makes sense. I occasionally find 35" scale 4-string necks on eBay or Reverb, but they're not common. Thanks!
Sickk
You should do some research on how to do this. A thin spatula type tool will pry the board off at an angle that is not so severe. The chisel bends the wood past the breaking point. It is much easier and cheaper to learn from others mistakes than to make them again while reinventing the wheel.
would love to see a guitar that looks fanned fret but isn't, all the frets, individual bridge saddles, and nut are just paralell at the same 15 degree angle.
Was surprised that fretboard didn’t come off cleanly- I have done this a few times- used an iron…came off pretty easily. I wonder how it was glued down.
I wanted to try an iron but couldn’t find one, that could have been the issue. Might try it again with an iron if I can grab one cheap at a thrift store
I've seen video clips of guys using a clothes iron to remove fret boards
Dude your home depot sells walnut? Mine has only pine, poplar, and red oak. I wish they'd carry some maple or walnut or something from time to time
So the warping was from the fingerboard? Definitely would love to see a review on that new laser! It really has peaked my interest! Have you tried engraving gun slides yet?
I’ve been wanting to but I don’t think these laser can engrave steel. I might be wrong though!
I have some weird ideas for my behemoth neck LOL
You can get a guitar neck without fretboard, and plain fretboard at Ali.
Hi Dan, are you still using the basswood sheets from Hobby Lobby for your pickguards?
I tried it for one of my builds, but was unsatisfied with the results. I found that Michaels sells 12”x5.25” sheets of PINE. I glued two together to make a pickguard. Not only does the grain look nicer, but it is significantly sturdier than the basswood.
I highly recommend you try it
I never used basswood for pickguards. I use birch plywood. I use basswood to make shims.
I have seen fret boards stripped using an iron, vs a heat gun.
Thanks I’ll try that next time
please see a video how to remove a guitar neck fretboard ...thanks
I got way better results using just 2 spatulas and going from the opposite side (since from the nut side, usually the fretboard is thinner due to the (d'oh) nut having a recess.....and no water needed at all, just a warm iron (the one for the clothes, nothing fanzy) and I applied it directly on the fretts, so the heat remains longer, and also applying heat directly to each spatula.....after struggling for 10min the first inch, eventually the spatulas started to move like into butter accross the neck (the chisel is way too thick and will cause what alredy happened here, which is to crack the fretboard...doing this work like this, I manage to remove the whole fretboard in a single piece, and the frets didn/t even came out, literally I can glue the freatboard in another neck if I want.
Wouldn't you need a longer 1" neck length for the intonation?
Nope. It was a 34” 24 fret neck. I made it a 34.25-33.75” multiscale 24 fret. Just need to make sure my bridge saddles can move back ~1/8th on the low string, and forward ~1/8th” on the high string.
Totally off topic, but anyone know what’s up with thefretwire? It’s like the company went awol
Yes, the original owner sold it to an overseas company and it has gone to crap.
@@GunsandGuitars that’s so sad. There’s been this same as in Facebook and Instagram saying there offering 15% off. But all the comments are extremely negative saying they never got their orders but still had payments taken.
Just wanted to mention that the zero fret can and should be the same height as the rest of the frets.
I can always take it down a little if needed. Not as easy to go the other way!
Most brands use a larger fret than the rest for the zero fret.
@@LukeShingoose think about it for a second or two. Once you fret your B string at the first fret, is your first fret any higher than your second fret, and does it need to be higher?
I have a beautiful musikraft birds eye maple neck new....where can I get a swamp ash strat body for it?...musikraft dont make bodies anymore
@@vanshankguitars I think you need to think about it for a second because what you’re saying is wrong and matter of opinion. Like I said, a lot of manufacturers use taller frets than the rest for a zero fret, which is simply a fact. If you take a strandberg for example, a guitar that has thought and purpose behind every feature lists clearly on the site the fret sizes used and you can see that a the Boden bass uses a zero fret that is 0.006” taller than the rest.
Sure you can make your guitars zero fret the same size as the other but to say that it’s the only way is completely different. It at best is a matter of opinion which isn’t the argument I was making. For that sake you can say zero frets are vastly inferior to an actual nut or whatever you want to argue.
You live in a part of the country where Home Cheapot sells maple and walnut? I hate you. :D Down here in FL all we get is red oak, poplar, and pine. **SIGH**
Why wouldn't you just use a flat iron on the fret board?
I don’t have one 🤷♂️
Dude just put a hot iron directly on the frets and move it around every few minutes to take off a fretboard.
double j quad pickups... that reminded me the ugliest and weirdest bass ever made: the kramer duke. and yes, I own one.
am i dreaming or you didnt remove the tape from you glued neck !!!
The tape was only to cover the truss rod
@@GunsandGuitars in the video i thought you forgetted to remove it
WHY?!
😂