How To Make Refractory Fire Bricks For A Forge Or Foundry
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- These bricks are designed to be highly thermally insulative which they achieve by holding small pockets of air via the perlite and vermiculite.
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To buy vermiculite: amzn.to/3WWSvLi
This is the type of videos needed when you're looking for something specific. Short, concise, to the point. Great stuff.
Amen
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I love how the video just starts, instantly comes to the point and then has a few good infos if you want to keep watching instead of making you search for relevant stuff in a 45 minute episode of needless words.
It's perfect
Tip: if your mixture is sticking inside your wooden form, soak the form in water for about 15 min first brick produced, and after tamping, the wooden form will slide right up for you. If you introduce wet brick mortar to a dry wooden form,, the wet mortar will create a suction and adhesion process by default since your mortar is touching dry wood. After the first brick slides out of your Pre-wetted wooden form, you will dip your form for only a few seconds in the water bath to make it ready for the second batch of mortar forming a brick.
paint oil on the inside wall of forms. Oil prevents the wood from absorbing moisture, and prevents mix from sticking to wood.
I've watched a lot of these videos and this is easily the most useful. Covered the important things, didn't leave anything out, recipe is clear, proof at the end, suggestions for further improvement included. Great work. Keep making videos. Thanks, Rob
Thanks a lot Rob, means a lot.
Finally! A video that actually tells you the different ingredients to use! I've been looking for days. Thank you!
Dust your form with wood ash each time, before putting in the mix. It will act as a releasing agent
The old potter trick.
Or use Palm oil/soya oil on the walks inside the concreteform like proffesonal does, before putting in the concrete mix=Nema problema
I would add a dash of PVA fibers, some metacaolin or bentonite clay. The mix would be more plastic and less brittle/crumbly. Also a splash of water glass (sodium silicate) makes a great refractory binding agent.
Ehhh doesnt PVA decompose around 300°C? Why would you put it in fire brick?
@@kamilkobza5385 For better cohesion and consistency during molding/casting as well as crack prevention/propagation during curing cycle. The outer surface would likely retain some fibers as the high temps would not permeate all the way.
Your delivery on this video was top notch.
10/10
I know this is a really old video and you've probably been told this or figured it out by now. Ensuring a smooth form surface and applying a releasing agent like form oil would do you worlds of good.
Otherwise, I clicked this video because of the length, and you really did cover all the bases. Thanks.
It's a really great video thank you sir what I do is IU's C clamps first I make the measurements of my wood forms and then instead of having to screw or nail the forms I just use the C clamps to hold my form and once in my bricks are hardened I just take off the seat clamps and the patterns come right off you should try some c-clamps or those type of clamps that people use for carpentry
C clamps or bar clamps work perfectly .
smart
I'd imagine they'd work quite well for solid fuel forges and would work even better as a gas forge if you lined it with a small layer of castable refractory cement, maybe replace the cement with powdered clay.
I did something similar, When making the form I wrapped it in clear box tape. This made it much easier to lift the form from the brick without it sticking to the wood. I found that the water from the mixture soaks into the wood and sticks to the sides making it difficult to lift.
When we made concrete blocks or hose foundations, we used a mixture of 50/50 diesel/hydraulic fluid sprayed on the forms. It will never stick.
Some Tilers and brickies use the same method for their mixers. Light spray with diesel before use and the barrel of the mixer stays nice and clean.
For easier removal of the form, you can use regular wood clamps (one or two clamps across each narrow end of the form). It'll take seconds to clamp the form together, and just as long to loosen the clamps after whatever waiting period you decide to use. You can also wrap the long ends in cling-wrap, if sticking to the from is an issue.
Someone else may have already mentioned this, but I only read a few pages of top comments and didn't see that suggestion.
I made these bricks recently and found them to be quite sandy and loose. Eventually they set up but are still quite crumbly and fragile. I think my sand is coarser than the video. I made a second batch I went with 9:9:3:4 "liters" of each ingredient and 1 pound of bentonite clay. The bricks set up much faster and could be moved after 1 night instead of 2-3 days. The original recipe was like a sugar cube and the modified one is ice cream cake filling 😉
Unscrewing the mold each time works fine but takes a while. I made a hinged brick form recommended in the video, only need one hinge and a latch in the opposite corner. The hinge does not move that much in the hinge corner while you're opening it so it tends to stick and pull the corner apart. I recommend knocking the form still and then opening the hinge. Great video!
The ones from the video were a little crumbly too, but not as fragile as yours it seems. Mine got thrown out while I was away so I've decided to make some more and will revamp the recipe to address the issue, I will take your adaptation into consideration when making them.
Glad you enjoyed the video, I'm planning on making a new one for the new brick design so look out for that.
@@makeitquick9638 Did you ever finish that brick redesign?
Before slip form concrete for roads, the forms were sprayed with oil. When we used wood forms, we brushed waste oil on, no sticking there but cement would stick on un-brushed wood.
Wax works too
Put hinges on two or three corners of the mold and a toggle latch hasp on the forth. When you want to release the brick, untoggled latch clasp and open the mold. Infinitely reusable. Also might coat the wood with paraffin.
how are the bricks holding up? have you improved on the ratios or formula? These bricks are not expensive to make but, if you try to buy them, they cost a lot
sir Hello, does your company have any refractory procurement needs?we will provide a cheap price We are a Chinese refractory manufacturer with 20 years of experience. We look forward to learning and exchanging with you.
Great video thanks!
On another video I saw a chap cut wire wool into pieces and put that in the mix, he said it makes them make stronger
A good idea. Not sure if it will make the bricks less likely to crack, but it will definitely help hold them together longer if they do crack.
Alternate release method, a "slip sheet" lining inside the mould. Could be a simple as a plastic bag, compact material to fill the form, slide out brick. Also, keeping the brick wrapped while curing could help strengthen the bond by keeping the cement from drying out too fast while curing.
I feel like a wax paper would be good for this
I came here to say this, 3 years too late 😅
C clamp across the longer wood pcs. Thanks for sharing that mixture, I can't wait to try it! Nice job!
Two or three ways around your problem... next time maybe. You suggested a hinge; yes and a clip or catch to avoid having to unscrew the form. Oil the inside of the form with either motor oil or the proprietary release agent at extra expense... nah. Motor oil works quite well. I see someone suggested Pam and I assume that it is cooking oil or release agent in aerosol form. Don't have it in New Zealand. If you put a very small taper on the mold, from top to bottom, this will also help. Push your block out the wider end using a block of wood, slightly smaller than your brick. Nothing new there, it is how plastic and metal die cast molds are made. Also make sure the inside surface is smooth or the grain runs up and down. A coat of paint will help reduce the rough surface that the mix wants to hang on to... and again, a bit of oil.
Informative? You bet . And in less than 4 minutes. Typically videos of this subjec take 27 minutes. EXCELKENT presentation & top RUclips award for condensed information delivery
Very good formula for home build ... .. .
For longtime use you really can't get by without using true refractory Portland cement will last a while.
The mix is good perlite and vermiculite then adding the higher temp dence refractory purchased. Perhaps mixe a little water glass in and, keep it as dry as possible.
No doubt you can bring regular cement to high temp for a time but won't last...only temporary.
My dad used to make Portland cement quite a long time ago got sprayed by it in the arm just a spot..went right through him the guy in front of him got it in the chest and died on the spot, The hot stuff.
@serenedreams I'm supposing there was back pressure behind the holes they were trying to clear out and some of that material spat out.
Might I suggest making your form from Melamine boards. They are highly slippery, no need to take apart or make a hinge
I had the same first thought, Melamine boards is the way to go for concrete and brick forms.
For rapid production there is also method of using plunger. Essentially wooden plug size that fits into mold, place the plug on top and while giving lifting force to mold pull the plunger down so it pushes evenly brick out. Also mold surface might be bit too rough so it wont slide easily. Could try painting it witch also prevent wood sucking moisture out from the bricks surface and making it weaker.
Thanks, out of all the videos I have watched your's is the easiest to understand.
You could just oil the form with motor oil, vegetable oil etc so the form doesn't stick to the Crete, this is common practice in masonry
Rub transmission fluid on wood to release brick easily
This is how educational videos are made. Thank you very much.
Thanks
Great persuasive test. i'm convinced and going to follow recipe for my builds
Hello, does your company have any refractory procurement needs? We are a Chinese refractory manufacturer with 20 years of experience. We look forward to learning and exchanging with you.
Line the former with old newspaper?
Also sand types: use silica sand types as they are more rounded, like river bottoms rolled sand.
Also use water glass ( sodium silicate) as a water substitute. It forms a glass type bond with the substrates mix.
Thanks for the tips.
Wouldnt the coarser sand hold together better as it sets though?
Great video. To the point and not long and drawn out. To release the bricks easily. Line mold with news paper. Will burn off and help draw out moisture. 🤷🏽♂️ Just an idea.
If the forms are two "L" shaped pieces, they can be released without disturbing the bricks. Can keep them together with a couple of clamps until the mortar mix is compressed into the form. Release the clamps, then pull the form apart.
What a delightful voice
Isn't very inspiring is it.
Wd40 on sides of form helps stopping it stick to the form; watching concrete pour videos as i am exciting
But how long should they sit and cure??? What if you also added white plaster to the mix to maybe help with their strength?
the best video on the subject. Congrats. Simple str8 to the point
Absolutely much appreciated. I am needing to make a few changes of what I have going on myself glad to have come across this.
Good job-concise and to the bull point
I find that hydraulic cement in place of regular cement is a lot stronger, dries fast but makes them stronger
hinge on form great idea
ive seen it done that way on ytube
Excellent. Thank you.
Thank you so much!
For your form: In ceramics when we pour the clay slip into a form we treat the form with Vaseline so the cast releases easily
maibe make the form with a slight taper same as you would with the mould for casting metal once it starts lifting the walls move away from the brick instead of sliding up on its sides , might allso help to make sumting along the top edge of the mould to make the top edges less sharp
Is this Ben steins son? The clear eyes guy? Lol nice video. Nice quick video. Very rare lol
Great video. I appreciate how concise you are!
thank you.I was wondering about it's contents.
Or spray the form with pam so the mix dont stick
@# Mac nonstick cooking spray
Very well done thank you
Thank you for your wonderful video . Even if i didnt understand that liters of water . But i understand how the mixture shoud be to make the brike . Thank you very very much .
Hi,
The reason behind using litres was to use an easy volumetric measurement rather than weight for example, as weight could vary with sand types or wetness for example.
Glad you liked it.
Let me know if you'd like me to make a video on something else.
Also making a form that does not have 90 degree corners. IE shape the bricks so that they are trapezoidal, like the shape of a gold bar, maybe an exaggeration of shape, but this way all the sides of the form will release and you will be less likely to damage to unset brick.
nice work bro, i've been really looking for some refractory materials (trying to buy) but it's unavailable here in my country, but i found your ingredients available here, this is a very big help for me, thank you so much, i subscribed and liked keep creating informative vids like this man, your off to a great start
Thanks a lot for the support Louie Jay Jayme, I've been thinking of making another video but I can't think of another small project like this, definitely open to suggestions though.
Which country is this, per chance? Very interested in tradeskills and their practices worldwide.
Hello, does your company have any refractory procurement needs? We are a Chinese refractory manufacturer with 20 years of experience. We look forward to learning and exchanging with you.
Hey, good stuff. You should consider making more videos!
Thanks Made 2 Hack, I'd like to try filming another small project, I can't think of anything right now though, definitely open to suggestions.
Well, what about making the foundry? Or a crucible? Or just melting stuff. People love seeing that. I don't really know what you are into. @@makeitquick9638
Great video and clear explanation.
You could coat your forms with a vegetable oil. Theres also have a spray they use for concrete forms. Plastic wrap could help too.
Just paint the sides of your form with some used miter oil. That's what contractors do when the make concrete slabs. Any oil that stays on the brick will eventually burn away.
Good video.
I would change the phone work in 2 different ways than you suggested.
1. Give it a very slight taper.
2. Sand, smooth, polish and coat the inner surface with a waterproof substance.
How well are the bricks holding up and how much have you used them? TY for sharing!
Regular Portland cement? Can you use hydrolic high temp cement?
Don't rebuild the form. Clean it well, then grease it when you make new bricks. Wipe it down with diesel or vegetable oil and your bricks will slide right out.
This guy know what he is talking about ^^^^^^
try making a wetter mix and putting it on a vibrating table. that should help with the shear strength. also why don't you design a forge and cast it in the concrete
mix.
Well, a wetter concrete mix and a shakertable can make a better result or it can actually make things way Worse,becouse the heavyer stuff in the conceetmix like the Stones and so on,the will end UP at the bottom and that would make the concrete mutch weaker
The vibration will take all the insulating air bubbles out of your mix, ruining its insulating properties!
Add graphite to the mix to help it to survive higher temperatures longer. Have to work out the amount to add. Graphite can be purchased at auto supply stores.
Don't add extra water, it weakens your cement. Keep the mix dry as illustrated for best results and quicker curing, 5 days.
You're a legend thank you!!! 🤙🔥
very interesting and helpful thanks allot
Great video.
I *personally* wouldn't opt for this formula because perlite is mostly silicon, and I'm paranoid about silicosis.
nice just what I was looking for 😂😂😂
if you had a slight taper to the form the brick would fall out easily.
many thanks for great video
Since you make about 8 bricks at a time, just make a larger array type form with 8 slots, and leave the bricks in the form until set and dry and then fully disassemble to remove the bricks. A light rub of mineral oil on on the surface of the wood will also reduce the chances of the mixture sticking.
If you had a handle and lid that could provide leverage to compress the brick, would that make it more durable and less crumbly. Just asking for a friend...Great video.
Maybe try small magnets to hold the form together making it easier to snap together or separate.
what tyoe of cement did you use? 2cents: Put a plastic garbage bag over the mold and press it down inside. can be used to cover the brick right after pouring and used to lift the brick out the next day.
I used to build molds for fiberglass , I'm sure some of the same techniques will apply with your fire blocks.first for your mold if your going to make more than a few then go to your local cabinet shop and ask for some of there scraps of Formica ( countertop laminate) and instead of making one block mold why not get yourself 1- 2'x10'x10 " for your bottom form ,and 2- 1'x6'x10" for your side molds and last 1-1'x4'x10" for your divider boards .now glue your laminate to one side of your boards , except your 1'x4'x10' you need laminate on both sides ,you will need to use a trim router to take of the extra laminate,you can push your bottom,and side boards together ,and measure out every 4 inches and using a square mark them all at one time ,this will make sure all your form pieces line up perfect ,and then using a one eighths inch drill bit pre drill across all three boards two holes for each evenly spaced .now cut your last board in 10" pieces ,(note) before you cut your board was all of your form boards with Johnson's paste wax ,wipe it on and wipe it off ,don't let it set,do this three times and you will never have to do it again, now screw your two side to your bottom board ,of course all of your laminate pieces are in the inside and then screw your dividers in place now instead of one brick you make a whole stack at one time after they set up you should be able to just flip your form upside down and give a few love taps and Bam !! Your in the brick business,and by using a board to scrape off your top ,your going to have perfect looking bricks , Everytime.
Melt candle wax and coat inside of mold, wax face will shear within itself on brick removal - sorted
Thanks!
very informative and to the point. thank you, sir!
Just wet the form before you put mixture form for a smoother brick
I'm wondering how this mix would hold hold up if it were used to line the bottom of a barrel wood stove.
I'd use steel mesh as a means to hold it all together, like you would for a concrete type of pour.
I think hinges work better, use a hasp and staple like closure when setting the form. What do you think?
You could also use cornstarch or diatomaceous earth to coat the sides of the form and make it easier for the brick to slide off.
You should build your mold with a slight taper and also give the inside a coat of polyurethane to ensure the mould is smooth.
Wealth of information 🙏
Thanks, I have a few more videos up now (though they are a slightly different genre), let me know if you've like me to make a video about anything else.
Try making the form out of melamine, should slide right out
I wonder how well covering the form's surfaces with packing tape would prevent sticking. It works with glue in woodworking is why I thought of it.
My preferred method is paste wax. I think it's cheaper than tape, and easier to apply. I wrap a ball of it in two layers of cheese cloth for easy application. It has so many uses too, from glue-proofing the bench to rust-proofing tools.
@@nefariousyawn It's funny you mentioned paste wax; I just came in to show off the frame saw I made and haven't yet washed the shellac and (paste) wax off my hands. I'm with you in using it for a lot of things. Peace.
(1 year ago) just to add, I did mold making and casting in bronze in college and we used past wax for demolding parts.
Never made fire bricks but used to make my own heavy duty paving , i used steel to make my forms , coated the form with waste oil b4 adding the cement maybe you could use second hand cooking oil
Just what I needed. Im trying to get an idea of how I am going to make an electric arc furnace. It needs a large firebrick.
Good video.
TQVM bro
To anyone watching, do not use vermiculite. Feel free to use extra perlite, but vermiculite holds water and can explode if not fully dry
I have also heard this to be true but have not had any issues in my experience. The bricks tend to be porous enough to allow for the expansion of water/steam.
Instead of mixing in water into your mix.. make Air-crete by using dish soap and aerate the heck out of it to create a shaving creme type soapy lather.. similar to whipped egg whites.. then fold in your mix... Supposedly its great for heat insulation.
Very informative, thanks so much.
Or you rebuild it with an slight angle for ease of removals
I got to much updraft on my wood stove it's missing the top baffles I making my own now. Hopfully that helps
Great video, thanks!!! How long should I leave the bricks to dry?
Any ideas if adding steel wool would make the bricks more durable? I want to make some for my wood burner.
Very useful, thabks
Excellent video, thanks.
Hey mate it's 4 years later. Are the bricks still ok?
Store bought refractory bricks are super expensive I would love to make them myself. I wonder how well these would go if made in one of those compressed Earth brick machines?
Hello, does your company have any refractory procurement needs?We will provide a cheap price We are a Chinese refractory manufacturer with 20 years of experience. We look forward to learning and exchanging with you.
Thanx for sharing!
Great video. I’m looking to build a pizza oven and was thinking about using your mixture in a cast. I have a few questions. How have these bricks held up? Obviously my main concern is cracking when using the oven. What type of sand are you using? How heavy are these bricks? Did you use refractory cement or regular cement? Thank you for your time.
The bricks as a whole have held up and still function as they did, though through multiple uses became a bit crumbly, if you were to make a pizza oven with these i'd suggest coating the inside so you don't get concrete in your pizza. I don't think cracking will be too much of an issue with a pizza oven (as long as it doesn't get moved around too much) as they don't get particularly hot, these bricks can withstand over 1200 degrees. I used sharp sand for these. These bricks weigh little as their insulative properties come primarily from air pockets inside the bricks. I just used regular cement for these. As you may have noticed from the video this was a bit of a trial, though it did work well for my purposes of making a forge/foundry I don't think its quite the right thing for a pizza oven.
Although the straw might help a little initially, over time it would burn out/decay. Inorganic fibres like ceramic wool might help hold bricks together a little.
There is a Stucco base coat cement product called Wire Tex that come with strands of fiber glass to strengthen against cracking.
@@rivergoddess8134 it wasn’t meant for this purpose so I’m curious, have you tried this? Does it hold up at 1200 degrees ?
The bonds that portland cement makes is by using water to strengthen the bond but at high temperature all water locked in, evaporates and brick starts crumbling.
You need to use different binder a) water glass or b) calcium aluminate cement
Portland cement is based on calcium silicate and cures through water bonding into its structure.