Oliver 1855 Restoration Part 5 Over/Under Tear Down
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Tear down of the Over/Under 3 speed power shift used in many Oliver tractors. Here's the link for the spanner nut tool:
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As always, Thanks for watching!
I'm enjoying the video series. thanks
Thanks. For. All. You’re information. Wish I. Could. See it. When i. Was. Farming. Had. Stroke. Had to. Guit. I have. Several. Oliver. White. Sure. Liked. Them
I worked in a Oliver/White dealership for 20 years. This brought back some memories!
Great video. The diagnostic puddle was great. I'll have to remember that. Very scientific.
I plan on my own shop made tool, works on other brands as well.
This is one of those series you feel involved with. Can’t miss one and often I watch them more than once. Thanks Chris.
Thanks! Sometimes I swear I have more time into editing than I did wrenching.
Oliver farmboy just put his for the 1950 back together. The setup a test for it. Kina cool. Dad always loved Oliver's.
Prefect one to show how thing's come apart everything that could go wrong did lol.
I didn't drop anything on my foot, but the series isn't over yet.
Chris, we had a 1655 with the chain or the two sprockets go on that shaft was war had to replace that top shaft. The dealer got the shaft from a other supplier put it together it would not shift had to take shaft out and die grind grooves longer. It wasn’t right after die grinding out, they could make the shaft spines longer put back in tractor worked OK be sure to measure the spines on the shaft putting in on Oliver tractor after putting the tractor together. Thank you, Bob.
Thanks. I know some of the aftermarket parts are less than stellar quality.
Hey Chris Another good one!! I like attending your Oliver tech school classes!! I am going to start tearing down the 3speed from my 1850 soon. So its very good info to have. Thanks
Great job, lots of parts, looking forward to the rest of the series.
Diagnostic puddle😂😂 we're five minutes in here and I'm already laughing my ass off
Thanks for the great insights. It will be of value to future Generations of Oliver owners. Auction update,watched an 2wd 1855D average shape,good rubber,no block patches,open staton, $7500 in KY. Thought it a little high but with all the printed $$$ who knows anymore.
Used equipment prices are nuts. Part of me is glad to see the value of the Olivers keep pace with the other brands, but the other part wants a deal.
Great video. I only ever operated a 2 speed version but compared to the IH torque amplifier the Oliver system seemed bulletproof.
I've never used a TA, or worked on one, but there seems to be 2 kinds in the classifieds: fresh rebuild and out.
I think most TA units go out from misuse. There’s a proper way to shift described in the manuals. Don’t slip them, engage them firmly and when shifting back to direct drive you’re supposed to pause slightly midway and then complete the shift. Also TA should only be engaged under load rather than using it to reduce speed while coasting, if that makes sense.
Enjoyed your strip down video bro. Safe travels
Thanks for sharing the tear down with us. I have made several of those diagnostic puddles in my time too Chris,lol. I actually used to pour different fluids like that into a shop towel then fold the towel up into a bag like shape then dip in into solvent to rinse the oil out of it then look for any metal shavings in the rag.
Good idea, thanks for sharing!
Hahaha. I’m going to call all of my spills diagnostic puddles now. I make a lot of those. Lol
They now have cat litter that changes color depending on the health of the cat. I wonder if that will work as oil dry? If it turns red, the 3 speed has ATF. If it turns green, there's antifreeze in it.
thank you soooooo much for making this video
Happy Sunday morning. We used a long threaded rod with a saddle-type pusher tool. Simply tighten the nut on the opposite end of the saddle (with some greased washers between it and the shaft. Different strokes for different folks.
Happy Sunday to you and the Mrs! I talked about making a tool like you mention, then used my press to get the snap ring off. Then I reach over and push the button to stop recording, and it STARTS recording. I've got a nice shot of me looking right at the camera and saying " You've got to be kidding me " . Kidding might be substituted with a word that adds to the swear jar.
I could 😨 see this going wrong with all those parts. Very cool Mr Losey.
This going to be very useful for me now cause a friend wants overhaul his over under
Nice to tear one apart that hasn't been put together by the wrong guy and needs a lot of hard parts!
Great job / video. Very interesting
Thanks!
Love the Diagnostic Puddle Service Tool, I can see how that would be handy. I couldn’t find one on your site so I think I’ll custom make my own.
Just don't forget to use the Diagnostic Puddle removal material after you have your analysis .
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Check.
Thanks for the video Chris. You could have taught an Oliver Service School you are very good at explaining what is happening and what to look for
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for posting this. I have a white 2-150 and at some point this next year will have to split the tractor and tear into my over/under and go through it while its apart. Direct and over work but the under has never worked since i purchased it.
Hopefully the drag strips on the sprag clutch are bad. If it has chewed into the shaft, that starts getting pricey.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris If its pricey i can deal with that . The way things are going i am just hoping the parts are available at that point to be able to fix it. I also need to get a parts book with a breakdown of all the parts since the white version looks a bit different on the output shaft side.
Sunday morning ritual
Hi Chris - great video. I'm getting ready to fix my 1655 Over / Under (output shaft seal.) You mentioned seal kits. Where did you get your seal kit from? I know you mentioned Maple Springs Farm for the spanner nut tool. Thanks again for the video ... keep them coming. :)
I got my seal kit from Maibach tractor. If you're only doing the output seal, you can buy that separate. Get the oring for the output shaft too.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris - thank you. I bought the tractor last year. The over / under was working well until we lost the seal. The tractor lost enough fluid that the clutch would disengage. We stopped using it as soon as it acted up. Do you think it is worth going through the over / under or just replace the seal and o-ring?
@@bensmith7141 , if it were mine, I'd tear it down and inspect. The other seals probably are in similar condition.
Hi Chris. In pt.4 of engine tear down. You talk about the connecting rod. Which you mention the factory should have made stronger ones for the horse power. What else do you think they have done. To improve the strength and the reliability of the engine? Thank you ☺️
A little more webbing and iron in the block would have helped.
Thanks for going through a 3 spd for my and others education. I have watched the hydro power videos several times thanks for that too. Liked the diagnostic puddle. I have a question for you. Can I change out my hydro power in my 1600 with a over/under from a 1650 I think it will fit but wanted to ask your opinion before I get started. I have the levers by throttle and the oil cooler from the host tractor. Any input would be helpful. Keep posting videos. Thanks
Yes, they will swap out without any modification. If you have the oil cooler to go with the 3 speed, you're all set.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris thanks I’m really excited to have a 1600 with a 3spd. Thanks again
Hey Chris great video, I have a Oliver 1650 with over under and it grinds in 6th high and 6th direct. Do you think it would be something in the over under or the transmission, thanks.
It doesn't gring in any other gears, like 5th or 4th?
Hi Chris, wondering if you know which models are interchangeable? I have an 1850 Cockshutt that it was removed from and a shaft installed. I want to restore the tractor and found one in an 1855. Do you Know are some better then others? Which ones will fit my 1850?
Is your 1850 gas or diesel. The input shafts are a touch shorter on the 1850 diesel. If you machine about 1/4 inch off the end of the shaft and about a 1/4 inch of splines off so they don't hit the pilot bearing, it will work. If your 1850 is a gas, then it will bolt up with no problem.
Awesome thanks for the help. Mine is a Perkins
I’m just getting into these tractors. Do you have any advice on:
Best way to learn about them for repairs and knowledge?
Good places to get parts- example for me to go through and rebuild this over/under before I put it in?
For learning about them, consider joining the Hart-Parr Oliver Collectors Association. They have a magazine that comes out every 2 months that is a great source for history and information, as well as ads from various parts suppliers. Find more at www.hartparroliver.org
For parts, Maibach tractor and Korves Oliver are good sources. A word of caution, AGCO discontinued the sprag clutch that goes in the over/under. Maibach is looking to find a replacement, so look them up and give them a call for the parts.
Great. Much appreciated!
I want to hear former employee story time myself, I seen in the comments on past video's someone commenting about your dad, is there more than one former employee veiwers? Would love to hear for those guys. As a former dealer employee and then independent mechanic some of those stories are priceless!
I'll have to see if Chris is willing to come on and talk about the good old days . He's the only one I know of watching. Several former customers and neighbors watch as well.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris That would be a good video.
Was wondering if you have had many of these units where the rear sprocket had worked loose and worn the splines on the output shaft? Seems like that was a big problem on the ones I've rebuilt. Thanks for another trip down memory lane Chris.
The only one I recall is my 1655 from about 10 years ago. I ran smooth when I bought it, then all at once really vibrated bad. Pulled it out and the splines on the shaft were worn bad, but not on the sprocket. I think someone put some jb weld on the splines and a new sprocket, then cranked it down. Then jb wore and it got loose again. It got a new output shaft to the tune of 2 grand and has been fine ever since. I still have the old shaft, as the rest is in excellent shape. Not sure what the feasibility of welding it and cutting new splines is, but that might be the only option someday.
The ones a ran across was more like 20 years ago. I know I replaced at least 2 cause I didn't see any way to keep the sprocket tight when there was play in the splines. They where very pricey back then and I sure hope I didn't condemn parts that where still usable but these units where leaking oil around the splines and the o-rings was cut. I wouldn't think that JB weld would hold up in that application, some people will try anything. 🤔 Thanks for another great video, can't wait for the rebuild. I to made a oil sample puddle this week while taking apart a hydraulic cylinder on a cat 953
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I am a machinist in Ohio and I am wondering why these shafts are so pricey. I make splined shafts for John Deere pulling tractor transmissions but I usually only get 400 for one. These are splined and heat treated and then ground but they are not hollow like these oliver shafts. They usually have 2 bearing fits. Do they have the 1 3/4-27 splines like the splines that go into the clutch? I have made a few of those even for Olivers. If I had a sample, I could probably make one.
@@TheJohndeere466 , there's a drilling in the shaft to feed the piston for direct drive. The shaft also goes out to the drum, with teeth to engage the drum, and a cut into that for the piston. I'd have to measure, but I'd guess you'd be starting with at least a 4 inch piece of round stock. There's 3 bearing surfaces, the surface for the sprag, threads on one end, and the equivalent of 3 snap ring grooves. Plus it needs to be hollow.
The new shaft includes the drum which is heat treated and I think phosphated or maybe nitrided. That wouldn't be needed, as the old ones rarely fail any more.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris The large stock would make it more pricey plus the drilling. I am making a shaft for a farmall 400 that also has a gear made on it. I had to start with a 4" dia x 11 1/2" stock. The material cost 170.00.
Oliverfarmboy66 just rebuilt one for his 1950T
I've been watching. It's interesting to see the differences between his early one and my 1974 version.
Great video. Will you ever do a 2 or 3 digit hydraulic pump?
Someday. I think I need to reseal the pump on my 66.
At least the floor won't rust at that spot !
But somehow, green paint will still stick to it when I paint this tractor. Go figure.
When did you get that tractor buddy?
October of 2020. I had been trying to buy it for years and finally was able to close the deal.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris right on!! Sweet buy
Can. You. Still get parts o. Rings. When the tractors are not in. Business. Any. More?
Yes. Agco still supports the Oliver and White tractors with quite a few parts. There's quite a few aftermarket and restoration places that offer parts. The rest hs to be used parts. Sometimes it can be hard to find a specific part, but overall it's not bad at all.
Is this the same as my 4-150? As mine is the only one here in New Zealand
For the most part, yes. The output uses a different coupler, but the procedure is the same.
Where do you get. parts for these tractors ??
I've got a few different sources. I got the rebuild kit and the coupler chains and sprockets for this from agpartsfirst.com Some of the engine parts I have gotten from Maibach Tractor. Some of the parts I have on hand.
Oliver66farmboy actually just made some videos rebuilding his over/under clutch for 1955t
I've been watching too.
I never really understood the over/clutch but I tell you what seeing what's happening on the inside clears it up real quick