Thanks for the tips on dropping the pan. Very Helpful. Just an FYI for future use. The Oil Pump can be replaced without dropping the pan. The hard to reach 8mm bolts that hold on the pick up tube can be removed with a small 8 MM wrench or ratchet wrench. The trick is to loosen the bolt with your wrench and get it loose enough to have a little gap. Take about 2 feet of dental floss. I use GLIDE because it is stronger than most. create a self tightening loop at one end. Slip your loop over the bolt head and up onto the threads exposed by you loosening it a little. Slip the noose tight. Now continue loosening the 8 mm bolt with your 8mm wrench. As you loosen you will notice the bolt will wrap the dental floss round and round. If you have 2 foot of floss this is no problem. when the bolt comes out make sure you are holding the end of the dental floss. The bolt will drop down into the pan. Just pull it out with the floss. On Install of the new pump wrap your dental floss around the bolt about 20 times. The direction is important. Your wrap needs to go around in a direction so on install as you pull the dental floss the bolt will screw itself into the oil pump. If you have the bolt clean and then add a little anti seise to those threads you can pull the dental floss like starting a lawn mower and it will screw the bolt back in for you. I use a small pencil magnet to get the mounting bolts in place before pulling the string. Then use your wrench to tighten. No doubt this is not easy but 10 times faster than pulling the pan. If you do pull the pan on a 2007 or newer engine it is a great idea to add the oil relief deflector and maybe install a new oil pressure relief valve, the one that sits right next to the oil filter mount.
You should make a video explaining this procedure and also point out the deflector and oil pressure relief valve. I'm doing a dod delete on my 12 yukon denali and I'm not a mechanic. I will say I'm mechanically inclined but I'm finding it a little hard keeping up with what certain parts are and where they are located. I'm a visual learner.
WOW i need to buy you a few beers if this trick works ...and will make a youtube video on my channel giving you credit for this. I need to remove the oil pump on my RWD Mazda MPV and its a very similar setup in which you basically needa drop the subframe and oil pan just to remove the two little bolts that connect the pickup tube to the oil pump. Dealer said its a 1.5 day job for $2,250. I can probabñy do it myself but will definitely pass on potentially 3-4 days of misery laying on the garage floor just for two damn bolts on a pickup tube.
Can you discuss how important it is or isn't to make sure the oil pump is aligned when reinstalling with or without the alignment tools. Also, how to properly check that new lifters are good before installing them. Enjoying the content. Thanks!
Thanks! I have a 4.3 4x4 that I am working on this week. Doing the AFM delete(lifters, pins, etc), cam, oil pump, water pump too. After that an ECU update and then ready for many more miles.😀
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I will take that into consideration. There's 194k miles on the truck and I am trying to be ahead of the curve on any failures. Also, I got the oil pan down on this. (2018 4.3 Gen5) Cleaning up and checking the screen on the oil pickup tube. I noticed that when I took all the bolts out to get to the screen it was loose form the press fit! I thought it was supposed to be a press fit and I emailed tech support at Melling to ask their opinion and if they had a tool to insert their new one. The tube is 1.179" diameter, so the standard 3/4" tool won't work to press it into the receiver on the oil pan. Suggestions welcome on that one! - Thx!
@@bstickley1140 I didn't realize it was such a new one and a 4.3. I guess I didn't catch the 4.3 factor on the first message. That's completely different system than I was thinking, it might even have the variable geometry oil pump. If that's the case those oil pumps tend to blow up randomly. So I guess I don't know what to suggest if that's the case. Lol, I wish you luck there I guess Is all I can do.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thanks man I really appreciate your work and really respect your experience. It is the variable vane pump style and I have the ICT Billet LT Gen V Oil Pump Installation Alignment Guide Kit installed to remove the old pump. There may be some play in the casting difference between the new and old pump but it should be very close and I will watch for that for the seal of the new oval oil pan gasket. Also, I found the passenger side timing chain tensioner in pieces when I got the cover plate off. No chewing of the components chain, etc was seen so far. I have all new parts and chains to go back on. Rods and rockers all seem decent. I have the exact lifter sound with a chirp you show in your video. Gonna remove the lifters and inspect the cam next.
I got a request for you and it’s a good one for us DIY guys and that is putting crank bearings on a GMLS motor while it’s still in the truck and see how long it lasts There’s only a few out there and most of the guys as long as they polish the crank it stays running but I want to see a professional do it
That is completely dependent on crank condition. I likely will never do it. This is due to the fact if a bearing actually failed it would damage the crank and if it didn't fail why would you even go in there. It could be done if the issue was caught early but I would still rather rebuild the engine. I'm too picky for customers and don't own one myself to test it on lol.
I'm watching this video because I accidentally dropped a dod plug into the engine valley. It bounced off the cam and fell down. Do you think its weight will keep it at the bottom of the pan, or do I need to remove it?
It's likely sitting on the windage tray. Doing a delete it's best to pull the pan anyway so you can replace timing chain easily and replace that oil sump o-ring that's prone to leaking. That's why my delete kits come with oil pan related gaskets.
Preciate the video, quick question...i have a 2008 suburban 5.3 4x4 with a little over 200k on her...im losing oil pressure im assuming the pickup tube o ring...is it a must that i change the oil pump as well since it may have been sucking air? When it lost oil pressure i had a cylinder 1 lifter fail and misfire...came out the next morning and started the truck cold and oil pressure came back and lifter unstuck and misfire went away. Do i have to drop the pan to change oil pump and pickup tube o ring? I have the 4x4 so i see its extra steps to drop the pan...thanks in advance
No need to replace the pump, they are very robust. You do need to shut off that AFM though before you have many more problems. I have a video about oil pressure on these and you might have quite a few other possibilities for oil pressure loss. There's also ways to test for this. I believe there are a few different forum post on my website as well talking about this information.
Is there a gasket or sealant required between the rear side of the oil pan and the bell housing? I'm concerned about taking the pan down and not having a replacement gasket at that surface.
hi, do u have to really remove the timing chain cover to get to the rubber? or just the pan is fine. none 4wd suburban 2010 and also what is the torque spec for the oilpan and pattern?
I have a 2009 yukon denali awd.. i need to drop the oil pan so i can change the oil pan gasket gonna change the whole pick up tube assembly with a new oring while im in there probably do the pressure relief valve and oil deflector as well now i see you didnt fully remove the front diff so is that not necessary????. again 2009 yukon denali 6.2 awd just wanna change the oil pan gasket and while im in there do the oil pick up tube assembly deflector pressure valve etc..... any help would be appreciated thanks...
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you sir💪 so just to confirm you just had to lower the passenger side of the diff and remove the passenger axle to give clearance for the pan... is taking off the sway bar assembly necessary aswell or just the links
@@NORCALPYRO_ no need to remove axle, just unbolt it from diff. Sway bar doesn't always need to come out. Depends on how good you are at the pan shuffle.
Hey man I have really learned a lot through watching your video I’ve got a 2007 Tahoe that I’m planning on doing a full delete of the AFM/DOD but I can’t find a good kit anywhere can you send me a link to a solid kit? If there is any way I could contact that would be great I have some other questions I’d like to discuss with you
Would like to see a video about the stupid oil cooler lines that always fail and perhaps a different way to fix them and fix them permanently rather than having to buy the 100 dollar part
I’m struggling with the notion of dropping the oil pan to get my timing cover back on. The blue gasket on the oil pan seems to be keeping me from mounting the timing cover? Do you have any suggestions?
Put the timing cover in place (RTV on the corners of course) and tighten down the bolts from the oil pan to the timing cover slightly. Your goal is to squish the gasket slightly but not so much that you can't tighten the cover to the block.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair 2014 silverado 6.2 im having a real hard time getting the timing cover off. GM directions say to drop the oil pan. Im doing stock cam and lifter replacement after failed lifter and bent push rod.
@@Mac-mu9cs is it direct injection? The ones with direct injection are a little bit different. You have to deal with the pass-through connector for the oil pump control solenoid. Also don't forget the bolts that attach from the oil pan. I'd have to check my previous video I have stored on my hard drive but I don't believe there was anything in the way other than the connector. I just left the timing cover in the vehicle hanging down with the pass through still there. I was able to clean it in the vehicle and prep it for putting a new gasket on.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair yes DI. I have the engine out so no big deal . Im to old to be hanging over fenders for all the cleaning and prep work. i was prying on the cover , it just feels like it will crack before it pops loose. , do you need the seal alignment tool on these?
@@Mac-mu9cs oh yeah it's rtv holding it on so it takes a bit that's right. Forgot about that. As long as you replace crank seal alignment is no big deal. If pan is off make it flush with block. If pan is on lightly contact front bolts then us pan bolts to pull cover down. It's best to do pan off since engine is out.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair lol yeah its on my list. But seriously , I've got one heck of a strange situation with my truck. Started off with a knocking/tapping and an oil pressure sensor that just stopped working and always read 0. I could clear the code with my little OBD2 thing and it would peg out to 80, then just fall right back to 0, but the CEL would stay off until next time i turned off then on. Truck ran fine though and never lost any oil. There is also an oil leak on the oil cooler line, which I guess only leaks when driving because it never drips when parked, and i dont really lose any oil. I check it daily. My father in law is a mechanic and has his own shop and rebuilds and restores old cars and builds dragster. He knows and does all things cars ( i just avoid him like the plague because he's mean as hell and he always just assumes my motor is shot and dont wanna mess with it) Anyways. Changed the oil pressure sensor and now the oil pressure goes up and down with driving. That dinging from low oil pressure is about to drive me insane. But here's the odd thing- my engine doesn't always tap. Sometimes it's dead quiet and perfectly smooth. The oil guage still goes up and down, to maybe 35 at the highest to 0, but even at zero it makes no noise. Other times its loud as hell. It somewhat random also. It isn't directly related to engine rpms or engine temperature. It does seem to be better overall when cooler outside and overall truck is cooler. It can be at temperature for a good 20 miles or so and still be dead quiet , even at a stop and 0 on guage . Eventually it will start to tap. Other times it can be dead quiet , and I can out at a store , get back in and crank and all the sudden its loud as hell. We had a cold front come through Texas a couple days ago and my engine has been drastically quieter . I drove for almost an hour yesterday, city and country driving , before it made the slightest sound. I thought it was some how fixed its been so quiet . Now saying its been a good 20 degrees cooler here in Texas, the engine still warms up to 195° or so just like normal. But something I did notice becuase of a random post on some video somewhere was transmission temperature. My trans temp IS quite different with the cooler weather. It may get to 150 in this cooler weather , whereas in the heat, 180 -190 ish. And i just started watching for this , and so far , I haven't heard any tapping until the trans temp hits 150. And it takes a loooong time for my transmission to warm up. Definitely not like my engine. Idk if trans temp bares any relevance. There was this post that didn't make much sense to me but made a comment about some sensor being so close to the transmission that the transmission temp effected it. Didn't say if the sensor was trans or oil related. But thats just what got me monitoring that . And it would make sense at least as the timing being inline. It would seem as though my engine tapping correlates with transmission temp. Last little bit of info, im almost certain the tap is up top on drivers side. I do get a misfire on 3 and 4. Although the only CEL light I get is p0521. It was p0523 until I changed the sensor. I did change the sensor and screen with some el cheapo off Amazon. I dont get any other codes. Nothing for random misfires or anything else. Just the p0521 and the turn off engine low pressure warning when idling. Tipping the truck forward doesn't help either. It always reminds me atleast of being out at the track and hearing my buddies old Fairlane run with open headers. While not as loud of course, I swear it sounds just like that. But I havent found any cracks anywhere yet. Sorry for long post. Just hoping for some miracle. It's an 08 and iron block , so if it is a lifter , im gonna order that tool. It never goes into v4 mode though im assuming because of the CEL light being on. Oh and i changed plugs and wires recently. They were fried. It ran so much better for about 4 days , then a little bit of the rough idle came back. Pulled the plugs on the misfires and there is a tiny bit of oil getting on the threads, so im thinking maybe the misfire is due to the valve cover and im about to change it to the updated version and do your VLOM mod and im thinking/ hoping that'll solve the misfire. If u made it to the end of this post awake , lol thanks.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair hoping you see the novel I've written you. But something else that I've suspected could be going on, I believe finally just happened mid acceleration, when I could feel it. Disclaimer- if this sounds completely dumb, I am by no means a mechanic nor mechanically inclined. Outside of car stereos, im a moron . But I've always had the impression something was causing the clicking tapping sound. Especially when its perfectly quiet one moment and turn it off and back on and there it is. Again, the oil guage going up and down with rpms and falling to zero at idle with the warning , that's always there. But as I was going up a hill , engine was moderately noisy as it had just begun to make noise for the first time today after being out and about for a few hours , I felt my truck miss or something, and it was gone. I had my stereo up and I thought my truck had died. I was going 35 ish and its kinda rough riding -its an 08 with 200k on it, but instantly it was smooth and as quiet as a brand new one. That's never happened before. Either something that's floating around in my oil and blocking something moved or my computer commanded something to do something. No clue. So just thought I'd share. You seem to be the man to go to for these trucks, so hoping you have some insight. That's the thing about this truck . Its old. But at times it drives damn near perfect. And its paid for lol. So im hoping to salvage it . Maybe tweak it out on down the road after this custody battle im in. Its a clean truck. Alot of electrical gremlins but the motor and trans seem really solid. Just gotta figure this one thing out and I feel like I'll be set until first of next year when I do a true delete
@@noahkb80 dude way too much for a youtube post, u shoulda headed to the Silverado/sierra forums with Ur questions, I see now it's been a year so did u ever figure out your issues?
Nice compilation showing what's all involved in doing something like that. Thanks for sharing all that you do with us.
Hello
I've learned a lot about
The LS engines because of you
Thanks and keep it coming 💯 👌
Thanks for the tips on dropping the pan. Very Helpful. Just an FYI for future use. The Oil Pump can be replaced without dropping the pan. The hard to reach 8mm bolts that hold on the pick up tube can be removed with a small 8 MM wrench or ratchet wrench. The trick is to loosen the bolt with your wrench and get it loose enough to have a little gap. Take about 2 feet of dental floss. I use GLIDE because it is stronger than most. create a self tightening loop at one end. Slip your loop over the bolt head and up onto the threads exposed by you loosening it a little. Slip the noose tight. Now continue loosening the 8 mm bolt with your 8mm wrench. As you loosen you will notice the bolt will wrap the dental floss round and round. If you have 2 foot of floss this is no problem. when the bolt comes out make sure you are holding the end of the dental floss. The bolt will drop down into the pan. Just pull it out with the floss.
On Install of the new pump wrap your dental floss around the bolt about 20 times. The direction is important. Your wrap needs to go around in a direction so on install as you pull the dental floss the bolt will screw itself into the oil pump. If you have the bolt clean and then add a little anti seise to those threads you can pull the dental floss like starting a lawn mower and it will screw the bolt back in for you. I use a small pencil magnet to get the mounting bolts in place before pulling the string. Then use your wrench to tighten. No doubt this is not easy but 10 times faster than pulling the pan.
If you do pull the pan on a 2007 or newer engine it is a great idea to add the oil relief deflector and maybe install a new oil pressure relief valve, the one that sits right next to the oil filter mount.
You should make a video explaining this procedure and also point out the deflector and oil pressure relief valve. I'm doing a dod delete on my 12 yukon denali and I'm not a mechanic. I will say I'm mechanically inclined but I'm finding it a little hard keeping up with what certain parts are and where they are located. I'm a visual learner.
WOW i need to buy you a few beers if this trick works ...and will make a youtube video on my channel giving you credit for this. I need to remove the oil pump on my RWD Mazda MPV and its a very similar setup in which you basically needa drop the subframe and oil pan just to remove the two little bolts that connect the pickup tube to the oil pump. Dealer said its a 1.5 day job for $2,250. I can probabñy do it myself but will definitely pass on potentially 3-4 days of misery laying on the garage floor just for two damn bolts on a pickup tube.
Can you discuss how important it is or isn't to make sure the oil pump is aligned when reinstalling with or without the alignment tools. Also, how to properly check that new lifters are good before installing them. Enjoying the content. Thanks!
Thanks! I have a 4.3 4x4 that I am working on this week. Doing the AFM delete(lifters, pins, etc), cam, oil pump, water pump too. After that an ECU update and then ready for many more miles.😀
Don't bother replacing the oil pump. Especially if it's with a standard volume pump. That's asking for trouble.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I will take that into consideration. There's 194k miles on the truck and I am trying to be ahead of the curve on any failures. Also, I got the oil pan down on this. (2018 4.3 Gen5) Cleaning up and checking the screen on the oil pickup tube. I noticed that when I took all the bolts out to get to the screen it was loose form the press fit! I thought it was supposed to be a press fit and I emailed tech support at Melling to ask their opinion and if they had a tool to insert their new one. The tube is 1.179" diameter, so the standard 3/4" tool won't work to press it into the receiver on the oil pan. Suggestions welcome on that one! - Thx!
@@bstickley1140 I didn't realize it was such a new one and a 4.3. I guess I didn't catch the 4.3 factor on the first message. That's completely different system than I was thinking, it might even have the variable geometry oil pump. If that's the case those oil pumps tend to blow up randomly. So I guess I don't know what to suggest if that's the case. Lol, I wish you luck there I guess Is all I can do.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thanks man I really appreciate your work and really respect your experience. It is the variable vane pump style and I have the ICT Billet LT Gen V Oil Pump Installation Alignment Guide Kit installed to remove the old pump. There may be some play in the casting difference between the new and old pump but it should be very close and I will watch for that for the seal of the new oval oil pan gasket. Also, I found the passenger side timing chain tensioner in pieces when I got the cover plate off. No chewing of the components chain, etc was seen so far. I have all new parts and chains to go back on. Rods and rockers all seem decent. I have the exact lifter sound with a chirp you show in your video. Gonna remove the lifters and inspect the cam next.
@@bstickley1140 lmk, a lot of times the chirping sound is caused from scoring of the camshaft.
Thanks! Great videos.
I got a request for you and it’s a good one for us DIY guys and that is putting crank bearings on a GMLS motor while it’s still in the truck and see how long it lasts
There’s only a few out there and most of the guys as long as they polish the crank it stays running but I want to see a professional do it
That is completely dependent on crank condition. I likely will never do it. This is due to the fact if a bearing actually failed it would damage the crank and if it didn't fail why would you even go in there. It could be done if the issue was caught early but I would still rather rebuild the engine. I'm too picky for customers and don't own one myself to test it on lol.
Nice video !!!!
I notice on my 2007 avalanche there's a oil leak in the rear of the oil pan. Iam going tobe pulling my pan anything to look for.
Thanks
Craig
Replace the o-ring for the sump while in there.
GMC Yukon 6.2 timing chain replacement start to finish video please!! Timing alignment!!
Did you have any issue with the power steering sensor after taking apart and reinstalling the rack?
On a 2wd Silverado I was able to disconnect one of the lines to the rack.....It was just enough room with the line pushed up (just a bit)
Nice wonder if I can access it easy enough on the 4x4 all I ever see is 4x4 up here.
I'm watching this video because I accidentally dropped a dod plug into the engine valley. It bounced off the cam and fell down. Do you think its weight will keep it at the bottom of the pan, or do I need to remove it?
It's likely sitting on the windage tray. Doing a delete it's best to pull the pan anyway so you can replace timing chain easily and replace that oil sump o-ring that's prone to leaking. That's why my delete kits come with oil pan related gaskets.
Preciate the video, quick question...i have a 2008 suburban 5.3 4x4 with a little over 200k on her...im losing oil pressure im assuming the pickup tube o ring...is it a must that i change the oil pump as well since it may have been sucking air? When it lost oil pressure i had a cylinder 1 lifter fail and misfire...came out the next morning and started the truck cold and oil pressure came back and lifter unstuck and misfire went away. Do i have to drop the pan to change oil pump and pickup tube o ring? I have the 4x4 so i see its extra steps to drop the pan...thanks in advance
No need to replace the pump, they are very robust. You do need to shut off that AFM though before you have many more problems. I have a video about oil pressure on these and you might have quite a few other possibilities for oil pressure loss. There's also ways to test for this. I believe there are a few different forum post on my website as well talking about this information.
Can you tell me what the price range is for a DOD delete?
I have a 2001 express 4.3, i would like to drop the pan to do a timing chain and gears, is it pretty much the same procedure?
Is there a gasket or sealant required between the rear side of the oil pan and the bell housing? I'm concerned about taking the pan down and not having a replacement gasket at that surface.
No
hi, do u have to really remove the timing chain cover to get to the rubber? or just the pan is fine. none 4wd suburban 2010 and also what is the torque spec for the oilpan and pattern?
I have a 2009 yukon denali awd.. i need to drop the oil pan so i can change the oil pan gasket gonna change the whole pick up tube assembly with a new oring while im in there probably do the pressure relief valve and oil deflector as well now i see you didnt fully remove the front diff so is that not necessary????. again 2009 yukon denali 6.2 awd just wanna change the oil pan gasket and while im in there do the oil pick up tube assembly deflector pressure valve etc..... any help would be appreciated thanks...
No need to drop hole thing. Just the passenger side and the axle bolts attached to passenger side diff. Also have to drop rack and pinion.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you sir💪 so just to confirm you just had to lower the passenger side of the diff and remove the passenger axle to give clearance for the pan... is taking off the sway bar assembly necessary aswell or just the links
@@NORCALPYRO_ no need to remove axle, just unbolt it from diff. Sway bar doesn't always need to come out. Depends on how good you are at the pan shuffle.
Sub'd great information with every video
Nive vids I like the GM vids its been very informative for my 08 Yukon Denali. Have you replaced any U joints on the Yukon/Sierra platform
Nice 👍 I’m getting ready to do a oil pan gasket tomorrow. Can you replace the oil pump gasket without removing the timing cover? Thanks
Yes but it is tough and a good time to replace t-chain and tensioner. Tip: replace tensioner with damper.
Is this something you would recommend as maintenance or mileage base needs?
For someone who is ambitious I would say do the o-ring at about 10years or 200k seems they start to leak/age not long after whatever one comes first.
Is this the same for 2011 GMC Sierra?
Yes
I was hoping to see where you put rtv
Only goes where multiple cover pieces meet. The 4 little spots that looks different on gasket. Pretty sure I mentioned it?
So what you're telling me is that, if I'm having to rebuild the bottom end anyway, it will be easier to just pull the engine...
If you rebuild bottom end, yes absolutely.
Hey man I have really learned a lot through watching your video I’ve got a 2007 Tahoe that I’m planning on doing a full delete of the AFM/DOD but I can’t find a good kit anywhere can you send me a link to a solid kit? If there is any way I could contact that would be great I have some other questions I’d like to discuss with you
Texas Speed
Would like to see a video about the stupid oil cooler lines that always fail and perhaps a different way to fix them and fix them permanently rather than having to buy the 100 dollar part
I'm posting a video tomorrow about my solution to the problem ......
I think it's WAY better than factory and looks better too
I’m struggling with the notion of dropping the oil pan to get my timing cover back on. The blue gasket on the oil pan seems to be keeping me from mounting the timing cover? Do you have any suggestions?
Put the timing cover in place (RTV on the corners of course) and tighten down the bolts from the oil pan to the timing cover slightly. Your goal is to squish the gasket slightly but not so much that you can't tighten the cover to the block.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
2014 silverado 6.2 im having a real hard time getting the timing cover off. GM directions say to drop the oil pan.
Im doing stock cam and lifter replacement after failed lifter and bent push rod.
@@Mac-mu9cs is it direct injection? The ones with direct injection are a little bit different. You have to deal with the pass-through connector for the oil pump control solenoid. Also don't forget the bolts that attach from the oil pan. I'd have to check my previous video I have stored on my hard drive but I don't believe there was anything in the way other than the connector. I just left the timing cover in the vehicle hanging down with the pass through still there. I was able to clean it in the vehicle and prep it for putting a new gasket on.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair yes DI.
I have the engine out so no big deal . Im to old to be hanging over fenders for all the cleaning and prep work.
i was prying on the cover , it just feels like it will crack before it pops loose. , do you need the seal alignment tool on these?
@@Mac-mu9cs oh yeah it's rtv holding it on so it takes a bit that's right. Forgot about that. As long as you replace crank seal alignment is no big deal. If pan is off make it flush with block. If pan is on lightly contact front bolts then us pan bolts to pull cover down. It's best to do pan off since engine is out.
Hey, I was under my 08 silverado 5.3 and noticed my oil pan is missing 3 random bolts. Is that bad?
Well I would certainly want to put new bolts in if that's the case.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair lol yeah its on my list.
But seriously , I've got one heck of a strange situation with my truck. Started off with a knocking/tapping and an oil pressure sensor that just stopped working and always read 0. I could clear the code with my little OBD2 thing and it would peg out to 80, then just fall right back to 0, but the CEL would stay off until next time i turned off then on. Truck ran fine though and never lost any oil. There is also an oil leak on the oil cooler line, which I guess only leaks when driving because it never drips when parked, and i dont really lose any oil. I check it daily. My father in law is a mechanic and has his own shop and rebuilds and restores old cars and builds dragster. He knows and does all things cars ( i just avoid him like the plague because he's mean as hell and he always just assumes my motor is shot and dont wanna mess with it)
Anyways. Changed the oil pressure sensor and now the oil pressure goes up and down with driving. That dinging from low oil pressure is about to drive me insane. But here's the odd thing- my engine doesn't always tap. Sometimes it's dead quiet and perfectly smooth. The oil guage still goes up and down, to maybe 35 at the highest to 0, but even at zero it makes no noise. Other times its loud as hell. It somewhat random also. It isn't directly related to engine rpms or engine temperature. It does seem to be better overall when cooler outside and overall truck is cooler. It can be at temperature for a good 20 miles or so and still be dead quiet , even at a stop and 0 on guage . Eventually it will start to tap. Other times it can be dead quiet , and I can out at a store , get back in and crank and all the sudden its loud as hell. We had a cold front come through Texas a couple days ago and my engine has been drastically quieter . I drove for almost an hour yesterday, city and country driving , before it made the slightest sound. I thought it was some how fixed its been so quiet . Now saying its been a good 20 degrees cooler here in Texas, the engine still warms up to 195° or so just like normal.
But something I did notice becuase of a random post on some video somewhere was transmission temperature. My trans temp IS quite different with the cooler weather. It may get to 150 in this cooler weather , whereas in the heat, 180 -190 ish. And i just started watching for this , and so far , I haven't heard any tapping until the trans temp hits 150. And it takes a loooong time for my transmission to warm up. Definitely not like my engine. Idk if trans temp bares any relevance. There was this post that didn't make much sense to me but made a comment about some sensor being so close to the transmission that the transmission temp effected it. Didn't say if the sensor was trans or oil related. But thats just what got me monitoring that . And it would make sense at least as the timing being inline. It would seem as though my engine tapping correlates with transmission temp.
Last little bit of info, im almost certain the tap is up top on drivers side. I do get a misfire on 3 and 4. Although the only CEL light I get is p0521. It was p0523 until I changed the sensor. I did change the sensor and screen with some el cheapo off Amazon. I dont get any other codes. Nothing for random misfires or anything else. Just the p0521 and the turn off engine low pressure warning when idling. Tipping the truck forward doesn't help either. It always reminds me atleast of being out at the track and hearing my buddies old Fairlane run with open headers. While not as loud of course, I swear it sounds just like that. But I havent found any cracks anywhere yet.
Sorry for long post. Just hoping for some miracle. It's an 08 and iron block , so if it is a lifter , im gonna order that tool. It never goes into v4 mode though im assuming because of the CEL light being on.
Oh and i changed plugs and wires recently. They were fried. It ran so much better for about 4 days , then a little bit of the rough idle came back. Pulled the plugs on the misfires and there is a tiny bit of oil getting on the threads, so im thinking maybe the misfire is due to the valve cover and im about to change it to the updated version and do your VLOM mod and im thinking/ hoping that'll solve the misfire.
If u made it to the end of this post awake , lol thanks.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair hoping you see the novel I've written you. But something else that I've suspected could be going on, I believe finally just happened mid acceleration, when I could feel it. Disclaimer- if this sounds completely dumb, I am by no means a mechanic nor mechanically inclined. Outside of car stereos, im a moron .
But I've always had the impression something was causing the clicking tapping sound. Especially when its perfectly quiet one moment and turn it off and back on and there it is. Again, the oil guage going up and down with rpms and falling to zero at idle with the warning , that's always there. But as I was going up a hill , engine was moderately noisy as it had just begun to make noise for the first time today after being out and about for a few hours , I felt my truck miss or something, and it was gone. I had my stereo up and I thought my truck had died. I was going 35 ish and its kinda rough riding -its an 08 with 200k on it, but instantly it was smooth and as quiet as a brand new one. That's never happened before. Either something that's floating around in my oil and blocking something moved or my computer commanded something to do something. No clue. So just thought I'd share. You seem to be the man to go to for these trucks, so hoping you have some insight.
That's the thing about this truck . Its old. But at times it drives damn near perfect. And its paid for lol. So im hoping to salvage it . Maybe tweak it out on down the road after this custody battle im in. Its a clean truck. Alot of electrical gremlins but the motor and trans seem really solid. Just gotta figure this one thing out and I feel like I'll be set until first of next year when I do a true delete
@@noahkb80 dude way too much for a youtube post, u shoulda headed to the Silverado/sierra forums with Ur questions, I see now it's been a year so did u ever figure out your issues?
Could you just drop the pan only to replace the O ring?
Yes absolutely.
Looks like a giant PITA just to drop the oil pan to replace a gasket. ugh.
I just wanna know how much coffee you had to move that fast.....
A pot a day keeps the speed at Bay...
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Y'all make really good videos. Keep em coming !
Too much talk, what actually nrrds to be seen is in small window and the speed demon in large window is useless!