I've always heard "if you want to know the easiest way to get something done ask a lazy person" but it is actually "ask a person that works by himself". You have mastered the working by yourself method. Amazingly well done!!
I've trimmed new houses for 20 years in Long Island, NY by myself just like you and always used 2-1/2" nails on base moldings and never hit anything. Enjoy the channel!
A helper and myself just finished up roughly 300 linear feet of ceiling beam. After thinking about an easy way to measure the rafter beams we came up with exactly the same way you measured yours, worked flawlessly.
Thanks for sharing your steps. I especially appreciate your pointing out your tricks to adjust the beam when existing conditions are less than ideal. Many others just leave that part of the footage on the cutting room floor.
The scaffolding layout was the first thing I noticed -what a great idea. Having said that, I want to express how much I hate beams- but, they sure are popular. Good video!
You are the man. I can't comprehend doing that job alone. Anyway, I am not a fan of adding numbers to the template. I would rather have an exact template that I do not need to do math with. All you need to do is put a board up there, square on each end. Then use your adjustable angle finder, and cut a thin piece of wood at the ange of the ceiling and the wall. Do the same for the other end. Tack your angle cuts to the board when they are up against the wall or box beam. You have an exact emplate. My father used to use a two stick sliding ruler device he made from two long 1X2 maple strips, held together with thin brass turn buckles he made. He could put that thing between walls, or whatever, slide it out until they touched, tighten it up, and plop it on a board and have the perfect dimension. No laser measuring device necessary. This is a modification of that idea. Whenever you do math, you are introducing a place you can make a mistake.
A stair tread gauge actually works pretty awesome for that. Cut a rafter ( like you did) but cut it short. Use the stair tread gauge method after that. Perfect fit and only 2 trips up the ladder/ scaffolding. Edit: I realize my description is pretty vague. Just treat the beam like you are installing a massive stair tread. Hopefully that’s a better description, than my first, poor explanation .
I have some of the Collins type tread gauges that work with a piece of 1x2. I could see making a "rafter template" with a section of 1x2 coming out each end...
Great work! As always, thanks for talking thru the process without BS or showmanship. Thanks too for including the link to the gap measuring wedge. This should be much faster for me than carrying a piuch full of various sizes of handishims. Suggestion for your lungs when it’s impractical to use dust extraction: Stealth mask. Compact, fits close to your face, comfortable to wear all day, won’t fog your glasses, replacement filters.
The fit was fantastic, I have been installing different types of wood details for over forty years, and I use a compass that is set to the widest gap, the scribes you have were not on the market when I started and I just got used to the compass
Hi from South Africa. Wow, I absolutely loved this video. Love your process as well as your methods and efficiency. Looks amazing once you know how to scribe and eliminate the problems. Awesome finish carpentry work 👍. Take care.
I've taken to fitting dust extraction hose to circular saw (nice flexible one works best) saves getting covered in dust. Works well when working outside too, when the wind will blow the dust back over you. Great tip with the blue masking tape,many thanks, you learn something new every day. Great channel, keep up the good work 👍
Awesome video. All your tips/tricks are invaluable. Appreciate the links...just picked up the RazorScribe & chalk line. As I get older a pencil line can is getting hard to see. The tape/RazorScribe/hauk knife will be something I'll use for sure. Love that the chalk line has a needle...very handy. Thanks Spencer!
I always like to take an off cut with the top and bottom angles cut to double check the ends when I scribe to make sure the cuts are the same on both sides. So if one wall wasn't parallel to the other, or the ridge, or just a hump in the drywall, you can spot the difference. Awesome video as always though.
Try quarter inch plywood and a belt sander for your scribe's and then hot glue those to your template and use a router with a top bearing bit , template bit. We use to use that method on pre finished beams.
A couple thoughts I have that may simplify and reduce the chance for errors. Rather than measure the gaps in the angle of your jig, you could mark the ends of the jig with an offset block that is against the bottom drywall and top ridge beam. Rather than moving the jig and measuring the movement of the jig to find your length, you could tack the jig in one location and the offset blocks will automatically account for length without having to remember to account for that when transferring the marks on the ground. You could also use this method to scribe the top edges. You would need to move the jig to each side of the mounting blocking but it would save a trip up the scaffold. However, this method would likely not be as accurate as your current method with the razor scribe directly onto the workpiece. When it is time to use the offset block to transfer the marks back onto the workpiece, the offset block will be 3/4" above your workpiece be they would be sitting on the jig. To solve that, use a block that is thicker than your jig and cut a 3/4" rabbet so the leg reaches down to the workpiece.
If that works for you, is easier and more efficient for you, that’s the route I would go. You might drop your offset blocks, resulting in a needless trip down scaffold.I don’t know. Different strokes for different folks. I’ve noticed this with spencer. He’s all about repeatability and simple. I believe the way he is going about it is such. I know that I’m not a rocket scientist, so the simpler the better. Especially Friday at 4:30 pm…when the crew is ready for the weekend.
I sorta get the one man working while the other watches. But once you and Paul get going, you’ll both will be working in unison. It takes forever, then one day you’ll realize you now have two extra arms. Great work as always.
I actually adopted your skirt board style of layout so I check the actual finished roof angle given by the digital level, then throw a level to check for plumb on the beam and drywall at the approximate distance of drop the perlin will cover
Always great information, maybe someone should make a template jig out of aluminum straight tube with adjustable length, and swiveled end pieces to set angles. Kind of like a tread template, or does it already exist.
lovely job. scaffolding worked out well. suprised you didnt have the scibed side pre beveled so when you mark the scribe you could use a cordless planer up on the scaffold to cut to the line. probably be too much for the rally bad ones but the first one it could have worked
Wonderful video on the beams. something I could never do. Wanted to ask if all those beans being stained and cleared or being painted since there knotty Pine
Multiple scribe jigs are a must. I have the trend and razorscribe, I also have a scribe tool called 'thingamejig'. A bit big but great for dialing in exact scribe depth.
Your tips and tricks are priceless. My only question is, for new construction (outdoor covered lanai) where the rafters and underside of the roof are still exposed, do you install the box beams and then the ship lap, or install the ship lap across the entire ceiling, then put the beams over it? The latter seems easier, but may not look right? Thanks, Spencer.
Another great video Spencer, I don't see a link to that gap measuring device. Several others are also looking for that info and link. Thanks again. 👍🏻 👍
- I’ve got to guess they are finish carpenters that make and hang rafters but without the precision you do. Not sure a typical homeowner would ever know adequate work vs. your precision. Is it stated someway in the quote process? Got to assume there’s others who quote but don’t preform the Spencer quality. Think you know what I’m curious about. - Shout out to your camera man.
Hi Spencer. I am not a trim carpenter, just a normal 40 year woodworker making furniture pieces for the most part. I enjoy your channel because you are damned good at what you do! I am planning an addition on my house and intend to do the trim carpentry myself. I am confident I can do it, and things I’ve learned watching you will speed me up while still giving me the quality I want. I am just 55 minutes northeast of Fort Wayne and visit the city quite frequently. I am wondering if you could share where you buy your finger jointed poplar material I see you use often so I can possibly avoid the big box store whose quality I find horrendous. Thank you!
A design and efficiency critique. The recessed wall that looks like it’s getting built ins needs a full length faux header (timber frame top plate) to match the beam on the opposite side of the room, IMO. With a true timber frame, this would be partially exposed. It’s missing and the room looks like it’s missing. Just need a faux face and bottom matching the height of the opposite side. Maybe showing a 3” projection from the drywall. Stay with a mathematical plumb cut at the ridge and also at the rafter tail based on roof pitch. For an 11/12 pitch, 42.51 degrees on your saw. Normally, I would just round that off to 42.5 but it’s your project so I’m going to the hundredths place. Lol. Cut them all the same length and don’t adjust the mathematical plumb cuts. No scribing or adjustment of the plumb cuts. You will shim the face of the wrap to meet the plumb cuts. Do this with coarse thread screws (threads on the entire shank). Only scribe along the length of each rafter at the ceiling. With a miter fold assembly, use screws to overdrive and back out to shim (push) the face of the ridge or plate wrap tight to the mathematical plumb cut on each end of the rafter. An over driven full threaded screw shank will grab the 3/4 pine and the framing lumber behind it and by backing the screw out, allowing for precise shimming to your mathematical plumb cut. With knotty pine, finish screw heads are less of an issue and these are driven close to the rafter for shimming. You can close the gaps by driving the correct screws and backing them out, shimming the face to your plumb cuts. No template needed. Like running crown… don’t box yourself in with a piece that needs to be coped on both ends. Faster, easier and a better look for this project with less climbing. Assuming the room is close to square and the roof was cut properly, you can cut all your rafters to the same size. Work from the ridge down. Only have to scribe along the length to the ceiling. Easier to fit one end of something instead of fitting both ends at the same time. Pull the face of the wraps tight to the mathematical plumb cut on your rafters and not the other way around. Next one you do.
I am retired but I have a question. Would a track saw be better to use than a circular saw? I know you would not be using a track, but it is my understanding that a track saw has better dust collection than the circular saw. I think that would be better than having the saw dust all you. I enjoy watching your videos.
Must be nice to have the young legs to do all that climbing word of advice use your knee pads when possible had to have total knee replacement because I was to proud to use them keep up the good work enjoying your videos
How do you ensure the distance from the bottom of the drywall cornerbead to the bottom of the beam has the same distance with scribe being different every beam ?
I realize that Spencer is working on high and homes. However I don't see this level of precision needed for something that's gonna be 15 feet in the air. The video is not necessary clear to exactly how much of a gap. That being said could he have maybe just taped the bean ran some tape and then pulled the tape?
How can you install these if you do not have a wall section in the area where you need to install a beam? Can you just square off the bottom of the beam and expose the bottom. I know it would look different, but do you have any pictures that you can send me that show how this looks and if it can be done? I can message you with my email address. Thanks
It can be done. Greenside Design Build had a really nice looking room with beams done that way. Check out their instagram and youtube "The Greenside Experience"
![DDG & G Herbo - Nosey [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I9Ra0Zc2NlQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You're a great teacher. You always have the most efficient, fast, and most sensible, way of doing things.Thank you for your videos.
I've always heard "if you want to know the easiest way to get something done ask a lazy person" but it is actually "ask a person that works by himself". You have mastered the working by yourself method. Amazingly well done!!
Coming from a 30 year old professional I hope I can one day execute my projects as well as you do. A lot of value in these videos thank you!
@28:00 Wow. CRISPY! Your attention to detail is second to none!
I've trimmed new houses for 20 years in Long Island, NY by myself just like you and always used 2-1/2" nails on base moldings and never hit anything. Enjoy the channel!
You must be a homebuilder's best friend. Amazingly skilled.
I just got my 1st big job of white oak beams and this help's me alot. I truly appreciate it brother. Thank you so much for the videos
A helper and myself just finished up roughly 300 linear feet of ceiling beam. After thinking about an easy way to measure the rafter beams we came up with exactly the same way you measured yours, worked flawlessly.
Take a bow agin ,mate ,perfection comes to people that deserving it, you do
Thanks for sharing your steps. I especially appreciate your pointing out your tricks to adjust the beam when existing conditions are less than ideal. Many others just leave that part of the footage on the cutting room floor.
The scaffolding layout was the first thing I noticed -what a great idea. Having said that, I want to express how much I hate beams- but, they sure are popular. Good video!
Looks great Spencer! You're a talented craftsman AND teacher.
Absolute gold. Thank you. Ordered the depth gauge and razor scribe.
You are the man. I can't comprehend doing that job alone. Anyway, I am not a fan of adding numbers to the template. I would rather have an exact template that I do not need to do math with. All you need to do is put a board up there, square on each end. Then use your adjustable angle finder, and cut a thin piece of wood at the ange of the ceiling and the wall. Do the same for the other end. Tack your angle cuts to the board when they are up against the wall or box beam. You have an exact emplate. My father used to use a two stick sliding ruler device he made from two long 1X2 maple strips, held together with thin brass turn buckles he made. He could put that thing between walls, or whatever, slide it out until they touched, tighten it up, and plop it on a board and have the perfect dimension. No laser measuring device necessary. This is a modification of that idea. Whenever you do math, you are introducing a place you can make a mistake.
Awesome to watch a true craftsman’s work!
A stair tread gauge actually works pretty awesome for that.
Cut a rafter ( like you did) but cut it short.
Use the stair tread gauge method after that.
Perfect fit and only 2 trips up the ladder/ scaffolding.
Edit:
I realize my description is pretty vague.
Just treat the beam like you are installing a massive stair tread.
Hopefully that’s a better description, than my first, poor explanation .
I have some of the Collins type tread gauges that work with a piece of 1x2. I could see making a "rafter template" with a section of 1x2 coming out each end...
Yeah you could attach a thread gauge to either side of the template and you'd have the length too
Literally waiting on my beam package from Barron Designs for a client.
Thanks for the video as always!
I have done a number of these sets as a two or three person crew. I'm going off solo now so this is great advice!
Great work! As always, thanks for talking thru the process without BS or showmanship. Thanks too for including the link to the gap measuring wedge. This should be much faster for me than carrying a piuch full of various sizes of handishims. Suggestion for your lungs when it’s impractical to use dust extraction: Stealth mask. Compact, fits close to your face, comfortable to wear all day, won’t fog your glasses, replacement filters.
Every time I watch you and I learn so much.
The fit was fantastic, I have been installing different types of wood details for over forty years, and I use a compass that is set to the widest gap, the scribes you have were not on the market when I started and I just got used to the compass
Hi from South Africa. Wow, I absolutely loved this video. Love your process as well as your methods and efficiency. Looks amazing once you know how to scribe and eliminate the problems. Awesome finish carpentry work 👍. Take care.
I've taken to fitting dust extraction hose to circular saw (nice flexible one works best) saves getting covered in dust. Works well when working outside too, when the wind will blow the dust back over you. Great tip with the blue masking tape,many thanks, you learn something new every day. Great channel, keep up the good work 👍
Great work. Thanks!
Nice job… greetings from a 100 amateur carpenter from Poland 👍👍👍.You are very good a carpenter teacher…👍👍👍
Awesome video. All your tips/tricks are invaluable. Appreciate the links...just picked up the RazorScribe & chalk line. As I get older a pencil line can is getting hard to see. The tape/RazorScribe/hauk knife will be something I'll use for sure. Love that the chalk line has a needle...very handy. Thanks Spencer!
Surprised the builder didn't want to book match the beams since they'll be a stain finish. Second to none quality, great content as always 💯
We're just lucky if we can find some halfway flat and straight boards.
Rafter crown is tuff to deal with... nice job.
What a great job man I look forward to seeing these videos, true craftsmanship
Spencer - Outstanding work as always, brother. 🤝🏽
The master at work again! Beautiful
Best Tips ever! Thanks for sharing!!👌👍🤩🫡 Perfect! Looks great!👍
Thanks for the tips and tricks. Your knowledge and processes are awesome!
excellent job you're the man
I always like to take an off cut with the top and bottom angles cut to double check the ends when I scribe to make sure the cuts are the same on both sides. So if one wall wasn't parallel to the other, or the ridge, or just a hump in the drywall, you can spot the difference. Awesome video as always though.
Very Impressive! Love it
Top notch looking work Spence!
Awesome video Spencer, you always make complex tasks easy, I have learned so much from you- keep up the outstanding videos!!
Excellent video!!!
A master class in mastery
Scribing is one of my favorite parts of my job. I’d never seen the scribing razor tool before. I just ordered one.
It’s so satisfying to get a perfect fit
@@metgumbnerbone1 favorite part of the job
Thanks for sharing your tips ,GOD bless you!
Good stuff, way to get to grips with the ins and outs.
Try quarter inch plywood and a belt sander for your scribe's and then hot glue those to your template and use a router with a top bearing bit , template bit. We use to use that method on pre finished beams.
Always another great video. Thanks.
A lot of info on your videos bro , love it !!!
Great video Spencer. I love the work and tips. When can we see the finished work on your last project? It is great to see your finished work.
Great video Spencer. Time to break out the golf clubs!
A couple thoughts I have that may simplify and reduce the chance for errors. Rather than measure the gaps in the angle of your jig, you could mark the ends of the jig with an offset block that is against the bottom drywall and top ridge beam. Rather than moving the jig and measuring the movement of the jig to find your length, you could tack the jig in one location and the offset blocks will automatically account for length without having to remember to account for that when transferring the marks on the ground. You could also use this method to scribe the top edges. You would need to move the jig to each side of the mounting blocking but it would save a trip up the scaffold. However, this method would likely not be as accurate as your current method with the razor scribe directly onto the workpiece. When it is time to use the offset block to transfer the marks back onto the workpiece, the offset block will be 3/4" above your workpiece be they would be sitting on the jig. To solve that, use a block that is thicker than your jig and cut a 3/4" rabbet so the leg reaches down to the workpiece.
If that works for you, is easier and more efficient for you, that’s the route I would go. You might drop your offset blocks, resulting in a needless trip down scaffold.I don’t know. Different strokes for different folks. I’ve noticed this with spencer. He’s all about repeatability and simple. I believe the way he is going about it is such. I know that I’m not a rocket scientist, so the simpler the better. Especially Friday at 4:30 pm…when the crew is ready for the weekend.
This video did NOT disappoint - best tutorial I've ever seen!😊 Bravo, Spencer!🍷 🚂Lawrence
I sorta get the one man working while the other watches. But once you and Paul get going, you’ll both will be working in unison. It takes forever, then one day you’ll realize you now have two extra arms. Great work as always.
you had some good people teach
Amazing as always! Thanks for sharing your videos!
I actually adopted your skirt board style of layout so I check the actual finished roof angle given by the digital level, then throw a level to check for plumb on the beam and drywall at the approximate distance of drop the perlin will cover
Awesome channel! I subbed before I'd even finished watching one video. 👍👍
Always great information, maybe someone should make a template jig out of aluminum straight tube with adjustable length, and swiveled end pieces to set angles. Kind of like a tread template, or does it already exist.
lovely job. scaffolding worked out well.
suprised you didnt have the scibed side pre beveled so when you mark the scribe you could use a cordless planer up on the scaffold to cut to the line. probably be too much for the rally bad ones but the first one it could have worked
If you put blocks in attic between joists you can screw from top down to make them hug supper tight to the ceiling. We do that but we use real beams.
Wonderful video on the beams. something I could never do. Wanted to ask if all those beans being stained and cleared or being painted since there knotty Pine
where do you buy that gauge ??
Great job man 🎉
Multiple scribe jigs are a must. I have the trend and razorscribe, I also have a scribe tool called 'thingamejig'. A bit big but great for dialing in exact scribe depth.
Your tips and tricks are priceless. My only question is, for new construction (outdoor covered lanai) where the rafters and underside of the roof are still exposed, do you install the box beams and then the ship lap, or install the ship lap across the entire ceiling, then put the beams over it? The latter seems easier, but may not look right? Thanks, Spencer.
Can you explain your process / technique for the large beam up at the peak. I believe you had to assemble it in place with seams.
Plain awesome!
🤟
When I do a long cut like this I put my Hat backwards, that way the sawdust hit my face less
Thank you for your knowledge sharing 😀
Thank
Great content, thank you! Do you have a link to your gauge tool?
searching for one myself
gr8 work as usual , thnx so much for the video's !!
thanks
Another great video Spencer, I don't see a link to that gap measuring device. Several others are also looking for that info and link. Thanks again. 👍🏻 👍
amzn.to/3QabF02
are there blocks between the rafters? or how are the cleats attached?
some good tips here thanks boss
You ever use suspenders for your bags! I started using them around 10 years ago.. gel filled sholders..
Nice Work. Does the wood get stained after install? Or would you stain it before final install?
Great job
Just curious have you ever dropped one I have caught a big splinter and dropped it has to start all over again but I do them the exact same way
Great job! I have questions about doing that with an 8" or 10" wide beam. I would assume that they would still need to be assembled in place.
No. I still preassemble. But I cut them with and HKC track saw or circular saw since they are too big for the miter saw.
Slick work👍
Just WOW!
Incredible.
Wondering if you've heard the same spence, "A good carpenter is one who can cover his mistakes"
Very nice work
- I’ve got to guess they are finish carpenters that make and hang rafters but without the precision you do. Not sure a typical homeowner would ever know adequate work vs. your precision. Is it stated someway in the quote process? Got to assume there’s others who quote but don’t preform the Spencer quality. Think you know what I’m curious about.
- Shout out to your camera man.
Wow !!!
Spencer...Where can I find the Incremented gauge you use?
Stepped Pipe Gauge - amzn.to/44BQwiC (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Hi Spencer. I am not a trim carpenter, just a normal 40 year woodworker making furniture pieces for the most part. I enjoy your channel because you are damned good at what you do! I am planning an addition on my house and intend to do the trim carpentry myself. I am confident I can do it, and things I’ve learned watching you will speed me up while still giving me the quality I want. I am just 55 minutes northeast of Fort Wayne and visit the city quite frequently. I am wondering if you could share where you buy your finger jointed poplar material I see you use often so I can possibly avoid the big box store whose quality I find horrendous. Thank you!
Home Lumber of New Haven is great.
@@InsiderCarpentry much appreciated, I have reached out to them.
A design and efficiency critique. The recessed wall that looks like it’s getting built ins needs a full length faux header (timber frame top plate) to match the beam on the opposite side of the room, IMO. With a true timber frame, this would be partially exposed. It’s missing and the room looks like it’s missing. Just need a faux face and bottom matching the height of the opposite side. Maybe showing a 3” projection from the drywall. Stay with a mathematical plumb cut at the ridge and also at the rafter tail based on roof pitch. For an 11/12 pitch, 42.51 degrees on your saw. Normally, I would just round that off to 42.5 but it’s your project so I’m going to the hundredths place. Lol. Cut them all the same length and don’t adjust the mathematical plumb cuts. No scribing or adjustment of the plumb cuts. You will shim the face of the wrap to meet the plumb cuts. Do this with coarse thread screws (threads on the entire shank). Only scribe along the length of each rafter at the ceiling. With a miter fold assembly, use screws to overdrive and back out to shim (push) the face of the ridge or plate wrap tight to the mathematical plumb cut on each end of the rafter. An over driven full threaded screw shank will grab the 3/4 pine and the framing lumber behind it and by backing the screw out, allowing for precise shimming to your mathematical plumb cut. With knotty pine, finish screw heads are less of an issue and these are driven close to the rafter for shimming. You can close the gaps by driving the correct screws and backing them out, shimming the face to your plumb cuts. No template needed. Like running crown… don’t box yourself in with a piece that needs to be coped on both ends. Faster, easier and a better look for this project with less climbing. Assuming the room is close to square and the roof was cut properly, you can cut all your rafters to the same size. Work from the ridge down. Only have to scribe along the length to the ceiling. Easier to fit one end of something instead of fitting both ends at the same time. Pull the face of the wraps tight to the mathematical plumb cut on your rafters and not the other way around. Next one you do.
Always useful tips in your posts Spencer… Curious…. In a stained beam application, using PL Premium to reduce the amount of nails to hold the beam…
Another great video!!
On an off topic - I assume it’s good weather there and curious what a green fee costs
I am retired but I have a question. Would a track saw be better to use than a circular saw? I know you would not be using a track, but it is my understanding that a track saw has better dust collection than the circular saw. I think that would be better than having the saw dust all you. I enjoy watching your videos.
You can use a track saw but a circular follows the contours of the cut better.
@@InsiderCarpentry Thank you. I understand that. Too bad you have to eat all that saw dust.
Must be nice to have the young legs to do all that climbing word of advice use your knee pads when possible had to have total knee replacement because I was to proud to use them keep up the good work enjoying your videos
Great content. Can you add a link to that gap measuring tool you used. I'd like to purchase.
Thanks
What paint and color is that room?
What do you do to cover up or hide the 16 gauge nail holes?
How do you ensure the distance from the bottom of the drywall cornerbead to the bottom of the beam has the same distance with scribe being different every beam ?
Caulk. Sorry.
Beams look great, but the casing is 🔥...
Why can't you join two tracks to create the length you want?
They planning on painting them, staining or leaving raw?
Stain!
@@InsiderCarpentry Looks great bud, thanks for all the vids and tips.
I realize that Spencer is working on high and homes. However I don't see this level of precision needed for something that's gonna be 15 feet in the air. The video is not necessary clear to exactly how much of a gap.
That being said could he have maybe just taped the bean ran some tape and then pulled the tape?
Instead of a block plane I use a hand grinder to sneak up to the line
How can you install these if you do not have a wall section in the area where you need to install a beam? Can you just square off the bottom of the beam and expose the bottom. I know it would look different, but do you have any pictures that you can send me that show how this looks and if it can be done? I can message you with my email address. Thanks
It can be done. Greenside Design Build had a really nice looking room with beams done that way. Check out their instagram and youtube "The Greenside Experience"