For this 3d printing is like an evolution, after solving one problem another pops out, then a vicious cycle continues as I solve the new problem another pops out the cycle continues ad infinatum
This is a GREAT VIDEO - excellent information and it was well edited - no "soap box" moments is always nice too. ☺ On my Anycubic Mega X, I had to enable cold extrusion by sending M302 P1 before it would actually extrude for filament length calibration. Then I set it back to M302 S170 before writing my settings out to EEPROM. I just upgraded my filament extruder to a dual gear type and when I extruded 10mm, it spit out 27.5mm! Your video was perfect for helping me get things set up properly. Thank you!
Tip if you do not want to waste fillament: Remove the bowden tube at the extruder end by pushing down on the little black hose clamp and pulling the tube out. Heat up your hotend to 200C and pull the fillament out. Now you should be able to calibrate and repeat the process as many times without wasting it. To replace the bowden tube, just push it back into the extruder.
As a beginner with an affordable (cheap) Easythreed K9 printer, I had to find an alternative calibration method for the X, Y, and Z axes motors. While this approach may not be the most conventional or "right" way to do it, it worked well enough for this printer. I opted against using the dial gauge method due to the printer's design constraints. However, measuring a calibration model proved to be a suitable alternative. One key adjustment I made was calibrating at 100mm, the machine's build limit, rather than the typical 20mm cube. This approach yields a smaller percentage of error at smaller sizes, resulting in more accurate prints, as mentioned in CNC Kitchen and other tutorials.
Numerous videos out there for how to do this, but yours is by far the easiest to follow (i also run octoprint, so it was nice seeing your on-screen examples). Great job and thank you!
A waaaaaay more important note. Outside of your esteps it’s highly unlikely your other steppers need to be calibrated via the steppers. This normally means something is binding and you should be looking for that. It’s extremely rare for the steppers to wrong(besides esteps which can change with filament and nozzle changes)
Thank you very much for this video! Very well presented and put together. After I updated the firmware from stock (1.1.2) to the marlin v1.4.6, I found that my extruder was under extruding by a mile! E was set to 92.6 and has now been calibrated to E445.35!!! Anyone else had this? I ran the test and it is now extruding 100mm when I ask it to do so. Strangely I never had major issues with my prints using the stock firmware so I don't know if those figures went out of whack after the firmware upgrade or if they were like that all the time. I wish I read the M503 figures before the firmware upgrade... but anyway... seems to be good now. It'll be interesting if people comment / post their M503 figures. I'll post mine a bit later once I'm done printing the 3d block and have calibrated the 3 axis.
It’s insane! My wife just said to me the other day she wants a printer that just works out of the box and I died a little bit inside thinking about how these printers used to be considered low maintenance 😭
@@ModernHobbyist Right!? It's insane that now people actually expect that new 3d printers function right out of the packaging like a microwave or toaster, with zero maintenance needing to be done until it's time to throw it away. In a way, it's really heartbreaking for me, because now the printer I got, the Ender 3 Pro, costs more than an Ender 3 V3... And now just anybody can just barge in and use them like a throw away tool without learning the magic behind 3d printing, from the stepper motors to the motion systems. I guess we have Bambu Lab to blame for this new mindset though... The industry will never be the same again.
Great write up this really helped. One thing missing is when calibrating the printer it will not extrude unless you warm up the print head first. Took me a couple minutes to figure it out. I saw it in terminal mode.
Also wanted to mention, the reason why you could not remove your filament guide from your print head is that there is a fitting on there with a plastic ring around the top. When this ring is pulled up, it locks the guide in place and they usually take a zip tie and pull it tight just under that ring to prevent it from being pushed down. Simply cut the zip tie then push down on the ring and you should be able to remove the filament guide without any problem.
Thanks for the comment! Not going to lie, I was trying to pull the ring up instead of pushing it down... I somehow got filament stuck in the tube and found the only way to remove it was to pull the tube out of the hotend, and I was embarrassed by how simple it was lol
@@ModernHobbyist We all knew less then we know now ... if we get embarrassed for not knowing then we slow the proliferation of knowledge. ☺ - keep kicking out these quality videos ☺
Great video, you've helped me seriously overhaul my printer. Videos are straight to the point and super easy to follow. Might be worth noting that there are some great calibration calculators out there that do the working out for you, just input your figures and it spits out your new esteps.
Wish I had found this video first. Starting with the calibration of the extruder makes more sense. My Creality Ender 3 Pro's extruder was off by 8 millimeters on the filament. 🇸🇪
When I try to calibrate extruder it doesn't work. my E value is around the 7120 but it still extrudes 25-47 mm filament. I've found E values between 100-7120. What should I do?
Hey there! Great video! I have a i3 Mega and have been wondering how to calibrate the step motors, so I really appreciate this video!! Can you go through the equation for the step motor calibration a bit more in depth? ... So, you have: (Target / Avg Actual) x Current steps. Is the "Target" 20mm because that's the size of the cube? I get the "Avg Actual". And then, "Current Steps" would be the values for X,Y,Z from the M503 command? I got confused because the numbers you had in the equation for that segment of the video are 100 and 120, the same as what you used for the extruder calibration(??). Thanks in advance!!
Thanks for catching that! The target would be 20mm, so if you ignore the part where I plug in the incorrect values for the movement motors and just take the equation, that would be correct. In short, (20/avg.)*current steps. Thanks again for the comment!
That has really helped me. I wanted to upgrade my Idbox 3D printer but did not know what the stepper motors was in the board so i could put then into the new board ( I want to keep the old one as stock so i always have something working). This should help me find out what is on my board.
I agree, that would be the best way. Unfortunately, I was unable to get the bowden tube disconnected from the heating element, so I had to improvise. Thanks for the comment though!
Congratz I watched so many videos regarding calibration but all of them refers only to extruder calibration leaving x,y,z axis in the dark. After switching to directdrive on my ender3 I noticed some overextrusions (even through extruder was and wall thickness were setup correctly). It seems that due to not enought belt tension or due to heavier carriage x,y,z dimmensions were out of their sweet point. At least this is my assumption since I'm still verifying it :).
BTW. in cura >4.8 you are able to crate cube and resize it to needed values - for example I'm extending my X dimmension to 100mm - since if the tested distance is longer then the error will be more visible. At the same time I decrease other dimmesnions just to save print time and material.
Thanks for the video; greatly appreciated. I tried the calibration but my E value is 387 is this okay? I also watch your video to replace the stepper to TMC2209 V3
The E Step segment was good, the calibration Cube is unfortunately not a great way to test the other step values tho... I know that wasn't really known when this video was made, but definitely worth stating at this point
Thanks for the comment! I think the extruder e-step calibration bears revisiting as well, since measuring 100mm of filament extruded is hard to achieve with calipers 🤔. Appreciate your thoughts, I'll look into making an updated version of this video!
@@ModernHobbyist CNC Kitchen has a good video on calibrating the XYZ steps with a much better test print for reference (tho he does mention some benefits of the calibration Cube, even if not for measuring)
my E5p isn't connected to my pc, and I can't find any firmware that allows me to connect it without screwing up my endstop settings (using CR Touch) and bed height settings
Thought after a comment you replied to on your last video about someone having a problem with the extruder not working properly. After updating the firmare as stated in your last video. My extruder is not at all working. Any ideas?
Yet another great video, you are truly a saviour for anyone who is starting with 3D printing. I have already applied your mosfet upgrade which went really well, I have noticed my i3 Mega S was still having some issues. So I installed Marlin re-calibrated my extruder stepper motor and boy was that under extruding or what? One issue though, how exactly are you measuring the cube and how are you coming up with an average? On my i3 Mega S my XYZ stepper motors are M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00
Hey, thanks for your comment! To measure the cube, I took three measurements on each axis, and took an average of all three. I then used that to calculate the new X,Y,Z steps. Let me know if that helps!
Great video! One question, for e steps, I've been using the formula, actual extruded length x 1000 then divide that by current estep setting, to get my new estep value. Would that work for the 3 axes as well?
For the print calibration of the movement motors, in the second calculation I am supposed to take the updated E value from the first calibration where I calibrated the extruder motor and sent M500 command to the printer right? Example: Previously upon booting up before calibration my E value is 92.6, however I calibrated the extruder motor which made me enter the E value to be 105.48 and then M500. Now when I calibrate the movement motors I must use 105.48 right?
Great video although I am not understanding you saying for X, Y and Z average, do you just mean what the caliper actualy read it as? Also what should the cube mesure in the first place. None of this seem to be mentioned in the video.
Thanks for the comment! I haven't calibrated in a while, but I believe the cube with 20mm, and I measured each side 3 times, taking an average of the 3 measurements. So I measured the X axis of the cube three times (e.g. 20.03, 20.06, 20.08) and took the average of those to find a good estimate of how much the X axis is off on my machine. I then repeated that for Y and Z. Hope that makes sense!
I printed the cube got a 20.1 for both my X and Y axis. The Z axis came out perfect at 20.0. Is the 20.1 considered within acceptable tolerance for the XY and be left alone or should I change the value?
Thanks for the comment! That is completely up to you. I would say that is pretty good, especially considering it is consistent between both axes. You could always jot down the current value, try updating it, and if it makes it worse, revert back to the original value. Worth a shot anyways.
You are doing the community a HUGE disservice with this video. You should NEVER calibrate your X,Y, Z step values based on the results from printed objects. There are so many other factors to take into account that you are not going to be accurate by using this method. Additionally X, Y, Z steps are fixed values that are determined by the belt teeth pitch, stepper degree, stepper gear, and microstep values, 99% of the time you will not need to change these values. On the rare occasion that you do need to change them you should be using a dial indicator to measure the distance moved and compare it to the distance requested and you should take these measurements at multiple locations in the printer travel to make sure that you're not just dealing with a binding issue if something is off. Also whenever possible your E-step calibration should be done with the extruder disconnected from the hotend or with the nozzle removed in the case of direct drive to eliminate the hotend back pressure from skewing your results. You then need to calibrate your flow rates for each filament spool and set up filament profiles for each in your slicer to help with your dimensional accuracy for prints. If you want to see a video of how step calibration should really be done correctly then check out the Teaching Tech X Y Z step video and CHEP's E-step video. I appreciate that you are trying to help but you are spreading bad information that only hurts the community.
Using a calibration cube, flow also has a direct effect on the dimensional accuracy. So does horizontal expansion. The Step values for the X, Y and Z are hardware limited. I'm not sure calibrating in this manner is a good idea.
Has anyone ever had your STL file that you bring into Cura turn 100% Dark Red, when normally it has always been yellow? This happened after calibrating my xyz axis and extruder.
Correct, the values calculated there are the calibrated "steps per unit" which for us would be steps per millimeter. Basically, how many microsteps does the motor need to take to move the implement 1 mm. Hope that helps!
Any idea why I get a weird bulging layer on all my prints? For info, I get one layer 5mm above the bed on every single one of my prints that is bulging out from the side and it's clearly visible on every print at the same height. The rest of the print is fine and works well. But I can't for the life of me figure out why I'd be getting one bulged layer. Thanks in advance! Edit: I have an Anycubic Mega Zero, and can't connect via octoprint for some reason (even though I can connect with cura) Also, I can provide photos of my prints if you'd like
Not too sure where to ask the question but here goes. I have had an A20T, and problems since I purchased it. But at long last I have it printing badly..... I need to know how to tune all three extruder steppers in G-code. But can't find the command to get the E settings on each stepper motor. Could anyone help me with this one? I'm using Pronterface to talk to the device Regards Kevin
@@ModernHobbyist Can you explain something? I am trying to calibrate the e-step. I'm using Sovol SV01. I cannot perfect the amount of filament that is being used. For example, for the target of 20mm, if I test 5 times, I will get 17.x, 18.x, couple 20.1-3, and back to ~
Great video Sir. I am building an atypical printer and I suspect all my stepper calibrations are not correct. I cannot print anything, but all the steppers move in the correct direction. Can you please suggest a starting point?
Hey thanks for the comment! I haven't built a printer myself yet, so I'm not quite sure the best route for you, but you might need to set some default values for various things in the firmware. Try the link below and see if that gets your setps/unit value a little bit closer to where you need it. www.matterhackers.com/news/3d-printer-firmware-settings-stepper-motor-configuration Let me know if that works!
Thanks for the comment! I agree, I definitely took too long getting to the point on this one. I’ve considered remaking this video with what I’ve learned in the past couple years so I’ll take this into account too 👍🏻
Hello Modern Hobbyst. My problem is how to connect and configure my Anycubic i3 Mega to the Octoprint. How is the procedure for that...I tried to follow the procedure from the official Octoprint website but I cannot sort this out...
I have 3 artillery sidewinder x1s only one is using octoprint because I only have one raspberry pi can m500 save it to each one if they don't use octoprint? Like unhook the pi and plug up each one?
Hey! You can definitely use the same Pi to send the command to all three printers, but you’ll need to send the calibration values to each printer before sending M500. Also, you’ll want to measure and calculate calibration values for each machine individually because they will all vary due to belt tension, manufacturing differences, etc… hope that helps!
Hi, thanks for the video but I'm just starting the calibration with an ender 3 v2, i sent the G1 E100 F100 via octoprint and the printer just fully unloaded the filament, then it stopped. Is there a different step with this printer? Before sending the command I preheated the hotend to 200 degrees, using PLA. (also, I have jyers UBL with bltouch firmware). Help please. Thank you!
Hey thanks for the comment! I haven’t tried this myself, but what I’m reading online is that you need to send M83 before the G1 command to enter relative positioning mode. Not sure that is the solution, but I hope it helps!
Hi, very nice video, but my prints are still oval. Original steps were x=100, y=100, z=200. I printed the cube, measured multiple times and then came up with averages as follows: x=100.5, y=101.52 z=199. I updated the machine using the LCD interface and stored the settings (my machine has these features in the LCD). The print came out the same or worse. I'm at a loss with this machine. I sent it in for repairs to Lulzbot 3 weeks ago and they sent it back in worse shape than it was. This problem didn't exist until they touched it and they won't respond to my support tickets. They did have to undo the belts to repair a broken bracket and I'm wondering if it could be a belt issue instead of the steps. If you have any ideas for me to try, I'd be grateful.
Help me please I have a anycubic i3 mega and installed tmc2009 and reversed the plugs and white plastic inserts I calibrated the stepper cards .830. My extruder motor doesn't work now. No intake or remove of Filament. The machine will home and goes in the right direction.
Thanks for the comment Bobby! It has been a while since I looked inside my Anycubic, but I did notice that one of the motor connectors is oriented differently than the rest, and my theory is that is the extruder motor connector. I'm not sure if it was initially oriented backwards or if that connector was supposed to be skipped, but it's worth looking into. There is a picture at this link that highlights what I'm talking about. Hopefully that helps! www.pialasse.com/2020/05/tmc2209-v3-0-upgrade-for-i3-mega/
@@ModernHobbyist Hi, it's been a year since my last message but I do keep watching your video since it is very helpful. I do a question for you. Using the same method that you have used for the axis calibration, do you think I will be able to fix the accuracy of a circle's inner or outer diameter?? Thanks in advance.
Hi, I'm quite new on 3D print. I have a FlyingBear Ghost 5. Now, to use Octoprint you need to buy a Rasperry?...or? Have been looking for a video of yours about a tutorial for dummies on Octoprint and Rasperry. I dowloded Octoprint from their web page and got an img file that I should use for falshing a Rasperry.... I'm lost. What's next? Thanks a lot for your kind help.
Thanks for the comment! OctoPrint can be run on any computer as a simple web server, but OctoPi is the most popular, since its easier to dedicate a $35 computer to your printer, as opposed to your personal laptop. If you are interested in running it on something other than your pi, check out the links at the bottom of the downloads page for setup instructions for Linux, Windows and Mac. octoprint.org/download/ Thanks again for the comment and I hope that helps!
Hi! Is there a way to apply an offset on the z axis in cura? I use the horizontal expansion to compensate the x and y offsets, but have not been able to do this for the vertical offset. Thanks!
you prolly dont care but does anyone know a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid lost the account password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Javier Ariel i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
hello very good the video, the case is that I have a problem since my printer got stuck, all sd and usb reading systems work, temperature of the extruder and bed. But when it comes to printing, it gets stuck with stripping temperature 0 and bed 0. I don't know if you could tell me what might be happening. It all started since I was standing in one piece. Thank you .
Hey Horman, thanks for the comment! The same equation should be fine, in the end all your doing is adjusting the existing parameter by a certain percentage. Hope that helps!
That code doesn't work on the anycubic mega pro. Evidently the extruder runs backwards when you use that code. Great info though. I just had to go through octoprint to do it.
Hi there, thanks fort he tutorial, its very helpful! I just dont get one thing. At 5:42 the X on the cube is facing to the front of the printer (as on every tutorial i saw), so that would mean the distance withe the X on the face measures actually the Y dimensions (front to back). Or do I think wrong? Same problem with the Y axis, the only one which seems correct is Z. Thank you for an explanation
Hey Dave, thanks for the comment. I see what you're saying, that could just be caused by me not rotating the cube the correct direction in the slicer. I just had to make sure that I measured the cube as it was oriented on my plate, so I measured the width of the X & Y faces rather than the depth. I hope that makes sense, thanks again for the comment!
My under extrusion is 78 mm?! Is that even possible? I recently upgraded my stepper drivers and my first two prints (test owls and a larger print I designed) came out beautifully. But since then I have had constant under extrusion. I've tried . . . New capricorn bowden tube New nozzle cleaning out the extruder mesh levelled the bed Still under extruding. Could I really be 78 mm off? Do I need to adjust my voltage on stepper driver? Please help!
Actually in my experience the underextrusion can be caused by lots of factors, sometimes by the condition of the filament(old filaments under extrude especially if the filament is exposed to high humidity) by the extruder not griping enough of the filament (the stock extruder of the ender 3 v2 is ok the first few prints, after many months it doesn't grip well slipping sometimes, also if the plastic arm isn't broken first) or maybe there's a partial blockage at the intersection of the bowden tube and nozzle. Try to look at each of this possible problems.
Thank you! Does updating the firmware (due to some other changes, e.g. probe offset value) change these M500 values or the values of the printer calibration that was done?
Hey Walter, thanks for the comment! From my experience, yes it clears the calibrations values to the defaults defined by the firmware. Hope that helps!
Modern Hobbyist . Thank you. I was wondering if it was some steps that I had forgotten to do or maybe my firmware Marlin 1.1.9 Bugfix has a problem. I had to do the bed levelling each time I made a change upload on Marlin.
Hi could you please explain where to get the program that you calibrate the printer is it something that you buy is it something you can download for free please explain thank you
Hey Eli, thanks for the comment! If you are talking about the terminal I send commands to the printer with, that is OctoPrint running on a Raspberry Pi which is connected to the printer. You could also use PronterFace (www.pronterface.com/) or another similar program, but you need one that will show you the serial printout from the printer, which Ultimaker Cura won't do. Hope that helps!
I flashed the latest *stock* 1.4.6 firmware from your other video, to my Mega X (not i3Mega?). Flash went perfect. But now, my zero and home is completely wrong. It used to print super reliably with the nozzle tip homing to the bottom far left. Now, it's homing somewhere mid-X, and almost off the Y and I'm unsure what the Z is doing, but when homing, it's exceeding some limit and starts making a noise as if it's trying to move past a fixed stop. Using octoprint terminal, how can I re-zero to the correct location, so my prints I slice in cura will print in the correct location on my ultrabase? I hope my explanation is clear. Thank you.
Modern Hobbyist I flashed your file, the 1.4.6. Stock i3 hex. Loaded fine. On printer screen and special menu was there. But when I tried to Home all axes, it kid of went crazy. I think it needs its own firmware. Bigger build vol 300x300x305 and maybe other differences? Any advice?
Oh I see! When I read Mega X, I was thinking the Mega S, which is basically the same as the i3 Mega. My guess is you'll have to start from scratch to get the Marlin firmware working for you, which is definitely an option, as the Marlin firmware is open source. Otherwise, you could certainly reach out to Dave Ramiro (the original creator of the firmware I used) and he may be able to help you out. The last option would be to reflash the stock firmware which is available on Anycubic's site. Let me know if that answers your questions!.
Modern Hobbyist I see what your question is. You had 3 files. 2 were for upgraded steppers. 1 was for unmodified “stock” steppers. That’s the hex I flashed. Sorry.
Thanks for the comment! Since OctoPrint is written in Python, it’s possible to run it on any computer that supports Python. I haven’t actually done it, but it shouldn’t be too hard. Here is a link for getting it set up on Windows: community.octoprint.org/t/setting-up-octoprint-on-windows/383
Hey thanks for the comment! I have also used Pronterface to connect to my printer and send commands, though I found it a little less intuitive than OctoPrint. Hope that helps! www.pronterface.com/
Nice explanation! Placing a post it note is +/- 3 mm and the measurements you are using for calculations is +/- 0.1 mm. I think a more accurate way of marking off 120 mm of filament is in order.
Hey Samuel, thanks for the comment! EEPROM stands for Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory and is used to store settings and configurations so that they are retrievable after rebooting or unplugging your printer. I'm not sure why yours is saying No EEPROM, but I know that is a configuration option on Marlin, so it could be that your printer doesn't have EEPROM_SETTINGS enabled. I don't have an Ender so it's hard to say, but check out this link and let me know if it helps you get things going: letsprint3d.net/how-to-calibrate-the-extruder-steps-ender-3-5-cr-10/ Also this link might help: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html Thanks again for the comment!
You'll need a method of communicating with the printer via the command line, I use OctoPrint's terminal tab. I then send the command M503 which will list all your current steps/mm settings. Hope that helps!
hello, i followed your step by step to install marlin, since then i wasnt able to print anything, it seemed to be underextruding. so i went on to do the calibration as shown in this video. I marked my filament at 120mm and sent the G1E100F100 code from cura and my filament still measures 96.69mm. This is the line i get from pronterface: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E92.60 The tightening screw isn't loose, it pulls just fine. what else could it be?
@@halitburakyesildal2869 yes, it was the e steps. I thought it should be more or less 100 but it depends on the stepper mottor. On the mega s its about 420 i think. When i did the firmware flash it may have changed the e steps. Answer is do the same procedure as the video and change your e steps according to the calculation and you should be fine. Let me know if it works, if not ill try to give more info
@@halitburakyesildal2869 you re on a mega S, with stock extruder? If so, 7000 steps is probably wrong. As you can see on my first comment, after the marlin upgrade i had 92 after i corrected it it was 396. Make sure to save your changes. Let me know if you got it working. When i have a min ill check and let you know the exact steps i took to make it work and the correct values for my machine
Hey Ben thanks for the comment! I used 120 in the equation because that is the length I chose to measure out on the filament before I extruded 100mm. So, ideally you would have exactly 20mm left after you measure out 120mm and extrude 100. Hope that makes sense!
@@ModernHobbyist sorry should have been clearer, i got that bit but you also had 120 on the X & Y calibration equation which confused me as the cube is 20mm
Finally I followed the steps from here and works fine kore.cc/i3mega/doc/ some missing steps in the video that are for the mega S If you are using this on a Mega-S, those four additional commands are necessary: M92 E384 - set correct steps for the new extruder M203 E30 - limit extruder feedrate M204 R1500.00 - lower retract acceleration M500 - save the values Calibration Extruder Calibration Get your old E-Steps with M503. Look for the line starting with M92, the value after the E are your current steps. Preheat the hotend with M104 S220 Send M83 to prepare the extruder Use a caliper or measuring tape and mark 120 mm (measured downwards from the extruder intake) with a pencil on the filament Send G1 E100 F100 Your extruder will feed 100 mm of filament now (takes 60 seconds) Measure where your pencil marking is now. If it's exactly 20 mm to the extruder, it's perfectly calibrated If it's less or more than 20 mm, subtract that value from 120 mm, e.g.: If you measure 25 mm, your result would be 95 mm. If you measure 15 mm, your result would be 105 mm Calculate your new value: (100 mm / actually extruded filament) *your current E-steps (default: i3 Mega 92.6, Mega-S 384) For example, if your markings are at 15 mm, you'd calculate: (100/105) * 92.6 = 88.19 Put in the new value like this: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 Exxx.xx, replacing x with your value Save with M500 Finish with M82 You can repeat the process if you want to get even more precise, you'd have to replace your current E-steps with your newly calibrated value in the next calculation.
Make a 3D printer they said...it’ll be easy they said.
Who is "they". Cause "they" couldn't be more wrong. But we got this.
For this 3d printing is like an evolution, after solving one problem another pops out, then a vicious cycle continues as I solve the new problem another pops out the cycle continues ad infinatum
@@bentibz2750 this is what the engineering life is all about, solving problem, doesn't matter that we caused the problem with a fix, we just solve it.
@@gronderful8871 you know they killed Kenny. They’re bastards.
Been 4 months and have yet to push plastic out the hotend...
This is a GREAT VIDEO - excellent information and it was well edited - no "soap box" moments is always nice too. ☺ On my Anycubic Mega X, I had to enable cold extrusion by sending M302 P1 before it would actually extrude for filament length calibration. Then I set it back to M302 S170 before writing my settings out to EEPROM.
I just upgraded my filament extruder to a dual gear type and when I extruded 10mm, it spit out 27.5mm! Your video was perfect for helping me get things set up properly. Thank you!
Thanks for the comment! I appreciate it!
Tip if you do not want to waste fillament:
Remove the bowden tube at the extruder end by pushing down on the little black hose clamp and pulling the tube out. Heat up your hotend to 200C and pull the fillament out. Now you should be able to calibrate and repeat the process as many times without wasting it. To replace the bowden tube, just push it back into the extruder.
As a beginner with an affordable (cheap) Easythreed K9 printer, I had to find an alternative calibration method for the X, Y, and Z axes motors. While this approach may not be the most conventional or "right" way to do it, it worked well enough for this printer.
I opted against using the dial gauge method due to the printer's design constraints. However, measuring a calibration model proved to be a suitable alternative.
One key adjustment I made was calibrating at 100mm, the machine's build limit, rather than the typical 20mm cube. This approach yields a smaller percentage of error at smaller sizes, resulting in more accurate prints, as mentioned in CNC Kitchen and other tutorials.
Numerous videos out there for how to do this, but yours is by far the easiest to follow (i also run octoprint, so it was nice seeing your on-screen examples). Great job and thank you!
Hey Caleb, thanks for the comment! I appreciate the kind words and I'm glad it helped!
A waaaaaay more important note. Outside of your esteps it’s highly unlikely your other steppers need to be calibrated via the steppers. This normally means something is binding and you should be looking for that. It’s extremely rare for the steppers to wrong(besides esteps which can change with filament and nozzle changes)
Thank you very much for this video! Very well presented and put together. After I updated the firmware from stock (1.1.2) to the marlin v1.4.6, I found that my extruder was under extruding by a mile! E was set to 92.6 and has now been calibrated to E445.35!!! Anyone else had this? I ran the test and it is now extruding 100mm when I ask it to do so. Strangely I never had major issues with my prints using the stock firmware so I don't know if those figures went out of whack after the firmware upgrade or if they were like that all the time. I wish I read the M503 figures before the firmware upgrade... but anyway... seems to be good now. It'll be interesting if people comment / post their M503 figures. I'll post mine a bit later once I'm done printing the 3d block and have calibrated the 3 axis.
Yeah mine was quite far off too, went from 92.6 to about 390. It was under extruding by like 60mm!
This video was a big help! I found my printer was underextruding by 10mm. I thought it was massive. The other stepper motors didn't require changing
Glad I could help! My extruder was also under extruding quite badly.
If only every video on RUclips was this great!!!!
Seeing that Anycubic Mega brings back memories from looking for my first 3d printer during the pandemic... Its crazy how much has changed.
It’s insane! My wife just said to me the other day she wants a printer that just works out of the box and I died a little bit inside thinking about how these printers used to be considered low maintenance 😭
@@ModernHobbyist Right!? It's insane that now people actually expect that new 3d printers function right out of the packaging like a microwave or toaster, with zero maintenance needing to be done until it's time to throw it away.
In a way, it's really heartbreaking for me, because now the printer I got, the Ender 3 Pro, costs more than an Ender 3 V3... And now just anybody can just barge in and use them like a throw away tool without learning the magic behind 3d printing, from the stepper motors to the motion systems.
I guess we have Bambu Lab to blame for this new mindset though... The industry will never be the same again.
No need to print the cube. And with such small cube the measurements error is quite big. Just move each axis by 100 mm and measure real distance...
how would you measure the real distance? if nothing is printed?
Just asking
@@TheDropYouNeed just put simple ruler on a table. Lower the head and align with zero on ruler
Wait that's actually very smart thanks
I was wondering why my prints are so fkd up. My Z axis was waaaay away from good steps. Thank you! Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub, glad I could help!
Great write up this really helped. One thing missing is when calibrating the printer it will not extrude unless you warm up the print head first. Took me a couple minutes to figure it out. I saw it in terminal mode.
Good point! Thanks for adding that!
Also wanted to mention, the reason why you could not remove your filament guide from your print head is that there is a fitting on there with a plastic ring around the top. When this ring is pulled up, it locks the guide in place and they usually take a zip tie and pull it tight just under that ring to prevent it from being pushed down. Simply cut the zip tie then push down on the ring and you should be able to remove the filament guide without any problem.
Thanks for the comment! Not going to lie, I was trying to pull the ring up instead of pushing it down... I somehow got filament stuck in the tube and found the only way to remove it was to pull the tube out of the hotend, and I was embarrassed by how simple it was lol
@@ModernHobbyist We all knew less then we know now ... if we get embarrassed for not knowing then we slow the proliferation of knowledge. ☺ - keep kicking out these quality videos ☺
@@MikeSims70 Thanks Mike! Appreciate the feedback and the views!
A big thanks ! My extruder motor was not correctly calibrated and have a error of 20%. Your video help me a lot to fix that !
Thanks for the comment! Glad I could help!
Great video, you've helped me seriously overhaul my printer. Videos are straight to the point and super easy to follow. Might be worth noting that there are some great calibration calculators out there that do the working out for you, just input your figures and it spits out your new esteps.
Great idea! I'll update the description with links to a calculator or two. Thanks for the comment!
Really interesting video! I had never thought of calibrating my Anycubic I3 Mega's stepper motor, maybe after this I'll give it a try. Thanks!
Wish I had found this video first. Starting with the calibration of the extruder makes more sense. My Creality Ender 3 Pro's extruder was off by 8 millimeters on the filament. 🇸🇪
Thanks for the comment, glad I could help!
When I try to calibrate extruder it doesn't work. my E value is around the 7120 but it still extrudes 25-47 mm filament. I've found E values between 100-7120. What should I do?
I didn't know Peter McKinnon started a 3d printer channel. Cool.
I have looked at lots of videos to help with 3 d printing a lot of them seem to waffle on, were as yours get straight to the point. Thank you
Thank you, just what I was looking for and needed...😁
Glad I could help!
Hey there! Great video! I have a i3 Mega and have been wondering how to calibrate the step motors, so I really appreciate this video!! Can you go through the equation for the step motor calibration a bit more in depth? ... So, you have: (Target / Avg Actual) x Current steps. Is the "Target" 20mm because that's the size of the cube? I get the "Avg Actual". And then, "Current Steps" would be the values for X,Y,Z from the M503 command? I got confused because the numbers you had in the equation for that segment of the video are 100 and 120, the same as what you used for the extruder calibration(??). Thanks in advance!!
Thanks for catching that! The target would be 20mm, so if you ignore the part where I plug in the incorrect values for the movement motors and just take the equation, that would be correct. In short, (20/avg.)*current steps.
Thanks again for the comment!
thanks so much. i extruded 100mm on my brand new mega s and it under extruded by over 5mm. thanks so much
That has really helped me. I wanted to upgrade my Idbox 3D printer but did not know what the stepper motors was in the board so i could put then into the new board ( I want to keep the old one as stock so i always have something working). This should help me find out what is on my board.
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad I could help!
Thx, I will try tomorrow.
You should calibrate the E-steps not through the Hotend. Disconnect the Bowden an calibrate "cold".
I agree, that would be the best way. Unfortunately, I was unable to get the bowden tube disconnected from the heating element, so I had to improvise. Thanks for the comment though!
Thanks for the help! I figured out :) I have two limit switches Z.
Glad I could help!
@@ModernHobbyist Could you customize the "linear advance" function?
Congratz I watched so many videos regarding calibration but all of them refers only to extruder calibration leaving x,y,z axis in the dark.
After switching to directdrive on my ender3 I noticed some overextrusions (even through extruder was and wall thickness were setup correctly). It seems that due to not enought belt tension or due to heavier carriage x,y,z dimmensions were out of their sweet point. At least this is my assumption since I'm still verifying it :).
BTW. in cura >4.8 you are able to crate cube and resize it to needed values - for example I'm extending my X dimmension to 100mm - since if the tested distance is longer then the error will be more visible. At the same time I decrease other dimmesnions just to save print time and material.
Thanks for the video; greatly appreciated. I tried the calibration but my E value is 387 is this okay? I also watch your video to replace the stepper to TMC2209 V3
Thank God, a decent tutorial. You earned my sub today
Thanks for the sub!
The E Step segment was good, the calibration Cube is unfortunately not a great way to test the other step values tho... I know that wasn't really known when this video was made, but definitely worth stating at this point
Thanks for the comment! I think the extruder e-step calibration bears revisiting as well, since measuring 100mm of filament extruded is hard to achieve with calipers 🤔. Appreciate your thoughts, I'll look into making an updated version of this video!
@@ModernHobbyist CNC Kitchen has a good video on calibrating the XYZ steps with a much better test print for reference (tho he does mention some benefits of the calibration Cube, even if not for measuring)
Thank you so much for demystifying this. Worth a like and a subscribe, for sure.
Welcome aboard!
Fantastic info, worked wonders on my CR-10S Pro. Thanks
Thanks for the comment Ross!
Thanks, very clear instructions.
My husband's just installed a new stepper motor. We use cura, never have messed with octoprint. How can we callibrate without using octoprint?
my E5p isn't connected to my pc, and I can't find any firmware that allows me to connect it without screwing up my endstop settings (using CR Touch) and bed height settings
Simple, clear and effective!!! Tks a lot man!
Thanks for your simple, clear and effective comment!
Thought after a comment you replied to on your last video about someone having a problem with the extruder not working properly. After updating the firmare as stated in your last video. My extruder is not at all working. Any ideas?
Yet another great video, you are truly a saviour for anyone who is starting with 3D printing. I have already applied your mosfet upgrade which went really well, I have noticed my i3 Mega S was still having some issues. So I installed Marlin re-calibrated my extruder stepper motor and boy was that under extruding or what? One issue though, how exactly are you measuring the cube and how are you coming up with an average?
On my i3 Mega S my XYZ stepper motors are M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00
Hey, thanks for your comment! To measure the cube, I took three measurements on each axis, and took an average of all three. I then used that to calculate the new X,Y,Z steps.
Let me know if that helps!
Great video! One question, for e steps, I've been using the formula, actual extruded length x 1000 then divide that by current estep setting, to get my new estep value. Would that work for the 3 axes as well?
Spot on, thanks 🙏
Thanks for the comment! Glad you enjoyed it!
For the print calibration of the movement motors, in the second calculation I am supposed to take the updated E value from the first calibration where I calibrated the extruder motor and sent M500 command to the printer right? Example: Previously upon booting up before calibration my E value is 92.6, however I calibrated the extruder motor which made me enter the E value to be 105.48 and then M500. Now when I calibrate the movement motors I must use 105.48 right?
Hello . waiting for Anycubic I3 Mega Improved Hotend Fanbox from thingeverse tutorial ,printed all parts but no video how to mount :)
I'm so confused on how to get octoprint help plz
Great video although I am not understanding you saying for X, Y and Z average, do you just mean what the caliper actualy read it as?
Also what should the cube mesure in the first place.
None of this seem to be mentioned in the video.
Thanks for the comment! I haven't calibrated in a while, but I believe the cube with 20mm, and I measured each side 3 times, taking an average of the 3 measurements. So I measured the X axis of the cube three times (e.g. 20.03, 20.06, 20.08) and took the average of those to find a good estimate of how much the X axis is off on my machine. I then repeated that for Y and Z. Hope that makes sense!
I printed the cube got a 20.1 for both my X and Y axis. The Z axis came out perfect at 20.0. Is the 20.1 considered within acceptable tolerance for the XY and be left alone or should I change the value?
Thanks for the comment!
That is completely up to you. I would say that is pretty good, especially considering it is consistent between both axes. You could always jot down the current value, try updating it, and if it makes it worse, revert back to the original value. Worth a shot anyways.
Great vid...will be attempting this today
Thanks for the comment!
You are doing the community a HUGE disservice with this video. You should NEVER calibrate your X,Y, Z step values based on the results from printed objects. There are so many other factors to take into account that you are not going to be accurate by using this method.
Additionally X, Y, Z steps are fixed values that are determined by the belt teeth pitch, stepper degree, stepper gear, and microstep values, 99% of the time you will not need to change these values.
On the rare occasion that you do need to change them you should be using a dial indicator to measure the distance moved and compare it to the distance requested and you should take these measurements at multiple locations in the printer travel to make sure that you're not just dealing with a binding issue if something is off.
Also whenever possible your E-step calibration should be done with the extruder disconnected from the hotend or with the nozzle removed in the case of direct drive to eliminate the hotend back pressure from skewing your results. You then need to calibrate your flow rates for each filament spool and set up filament profiles for each in your slicer to help with your dimensional accuracy for prints.
If you want to see a video of how step calibration should really be done correctly then check out the Teaching Tech X Y Z step video and CHEP's E-step video. I appreciate that you are trying to help but you are spreading bad information that only hurts the community.
Using a calibration cube, flow also has a direct effect on the dimensional accuracy. So does horizontal expansion. The Step values for the X, Y and Z are hardware limited. I'm not sure calibrating in this manner is a good idea.
Has anyone ever had your STL file that you bring into Cura turn 100% Dark Red, when normally it has always been yellow? This happened after calibrating my xyz axis and extruder.
Question, on your result from the M502 your value for X 80.14 and Y 79.94, I assume they are values in microsteps?
Correct, the values calculated there are the calibrated "steps per unit" which for us would be steps per millimeter. Basically, how many microsteps does the motor need to take to move the implement 1 mm. Hope that helps!
Any idea why I get a weird bulging layer on all my prints?
For info, I get one layer 5mm above the bed on every single one of my prints that is bulging out from the side and it's clearly visible on every print at the same height. The rest of the print is fine and works well. But I can't for the life of me figure out why I'd be getting one bulged layer. Thanks in advance!
Edit: I have an Anycubic Mega Zero, and can't connect via octoprint for some reason (even though I can connect with cura)
Also, I can provide photos of my prints if you'd like
Not too sure where to ask the question but here goes.
I have had an A20T, and problems since I purchased it. But at long last I have it printing badly.....
I need to know how to tune all three extruder steppers in G-code. But can't find the command to get the E settings on each stepper motor.
Could anyone help me with this one?
I'm using Pronterface to talk to the device
Regards
Kevin
Thanks for the awesome video!
Thanks for the comment! Glad I could help!
Superb! Easy to follow.
Thanks for the comment!
@@ModernHobbyist Can you explain something? I am trying to calibrate the e-step. I'm using Sovol SV01. I cannot perfect the amount of filament that is being used. For example, for the target of 20mm, if I test 5 times, I will get 17.x, 18.x, couple 20.1-3, and back to ~
Would you use the same formula if you printed out a 100mm calibration piece?
I made a 3d printer myself, calibration cube dimension is coming 1.5*1.5*2, should I change those values with same formula
Great video Sir. I am building an atypical printer and I suspect all my stepper calibrations are not correct. I cannot print anything, but all the steppers move in the correct direction. Can you please suggest a starting point?
Hey thanks for the comment! I haven't built a printer myself yet, so I'm not quite sure the best route for you, but you might need to set some default values for various things in the firmware. Try the link below and see if that gets your setps/unit value a little bit closer to where you need it.
www.matterhackers.com/news/3d-printer-firmware-settings-stepper-motor-configuration
Let me know if that works!
two frustrations. #1 2:20 seconds before we reach what we are doing. #2 no mention of the X/Y/Z axis motor calibration
Thanks for the comment! I agree, I definitely took too long getting to the point on this one. I’ve considered remaking this video with what I’ve learned in the past couple years so I’ll take this into account too 👍🏻
Hello Modern Hobbyst. My problem is how to connect and configure my Anycubic i3 Mega to the Octoprint. How is the procedure for that...I tried to follow the procedure from the official Octoprint website but I cannot sort this out...
Hey Eduardo, I'll work on making a full video for that, thanks for the suggestion!
I have 3 artillery sidewinder x1s only one is using octoprint because I only have one raspberry pi can m500 save it to each one if they don't use octoprint? Like unhook the pi and plug up each one?
Hey! You can definitely use the same Pi to send the command to all three printers, but you’ll need to send the calibration values to each printer before sending M500. Also, you’ll want to measure and calculate calibration values for each machine individually because they will all vary due to belt tension, manufacturing differences, etc… hope that helps!
Hi, thanks for the video but I'm just starting the calibration with an ender 3 v2, i sent the G1 E100 F100 via octoprint and the printer just fully unloaded the filament, then it stopped. Is there a different step with this printer? Before sending the command I preheated the hotend to 200 degrees, using PLA. (also, I have jyers UBL with bltouch firmware). Help please. Thank you!
Hey thanks for the comment! I haven’t tried this myself, but what I’m reading online is that you need to send M83 before the G1 command to enter relative positioning mode. Not sure that is the solution, but I hope it helps!
great video!!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi, very nice video, but my prints are still oval. Original steps were x=100, y=100, z=200. I printed the cube, measured multiple times and then came up with averages as follows: x=100.5, y=101.52 z=199. I updated the machine using the LCD interface and stored the settings (my machine has these features in the LCD). The print came out the same or worse. I'm at a loss with this machine. I sent it in for repairs to Lulzbot 3 weeks ago and they sent it back in worse shape than it was. This problem didn't exist until they touched it and they won't respond to my support tickets. They did have to undo the belts to repair a broken bracket and I'm wondering if it could be a belt issue instead of the steps. If you have any ideas for me to try, I'd be grateful.
NIce job! Thanks!
Help me please I have a anycubic i3 mega and installed tmc2009 and reversed the plugs and white plastic inserts I calibrated the stepper cards .830.
My extruder motor doesn't work now.
No intake or remove of Filament.
The machine will home and goes in the right direction.
Thanks for the comment Bobby! It has been a while since I looked inside my Anycubic, but I did notice that one of the motor connectors is oriented differently than the rest, and my theory is that is the extruder motor connector. I'm not sure if it was initially oriented backwards or if that connector was supposed to be skipped, but it's worth looking into. There is a picture at this link that highlights what I'm talking about. Hopefully that helps!
www.pialasse.com/2020/05/tmc2209-v3-0-upgrade-for-i3-mega/
Great video. Very helpful. Thanks
Thanks for the comment, glad it was helpful!
@@ModernHobbyist Hi, it's been a year since my last message but I do keep watching your video since it is very helpful. I do a question for you. Using the same method that you have used for the axis calibration, do you think I will be able to fix the accuracy of a circle's inner or outer diameter?? Thanks in advance.
Liked and Subscribed
Thank-you for your time and effort 👍
Thanks for the sub!
Will Cura update the values from the printer, or will Cura overwrite the values?
Thank you
Hi, I'm quite new on 3D print. I have a FlyingBear Ghost 5. Now, to use Octoprint you need to buy a Rasperry?...or? Have been looking for a video of yours about a tutorial for dummies on Octoprint and Rasperry. I dowloded Octoprint from their web page and got an img file that I should use for falshing a Rasperry.... I'm lost. What's next? Thanks a lot for your kind help.
Thanks for the comment! OctoPrint can be run on any computer as a simple web server, but OctoPi is the most popular, since its easier to dedicate a $35 computer to your printer, as opposed to your personal laptop. If you are interested in running it on something other than your pi, check out the links at the bottom of the downloads page for setup instructions for Linux, Windows and Mac.
octoprint.org/download/
Thanks again for the comment and I hope that helps!
Hi!
Is there a way to apply an offset on the z axis in cura? I use the horizontal expansion to compensate the x and y offsets, but have not been able to do this for the vertical offset. Thanks!
Sure! Check out this article. all3dp.com/2/cura-z-offset-simply-explained/
you prolly dont care but does anyone know a trick to log back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid lost the account password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Prince Quinton Instablaster =)
@Javier Ariel i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Javier Ariel it worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account !
hello very good the video, the case is that I have a problem since my printer got stuck, all sd and usb reading systems work, temperature of the extruder and bed. But when it comes to printing, it gets stuck with stripping temperature 0 and bed 0. I don't know if you could tell me what might be happening. It all started since I was standing in one piece. Thank you .
Are you on an Anycubic i3 Mega?
I have a I3 mega too but the value for E is 384 should i use the same equation ?
Hey Horman, thanks for the comment! The same equation should be fine, in the end all your doing is adjusting the existing parameter by a certain percentage. Hope that helps!
When I type the m500 command it dates eeprom failed
That code doesn't work on the anycubic mega pro. Evidently the extruder runs backwards when you use that code. Great info though. I just had to go through octoprint to do it.
Thanks for the comment, hopefully that helps other Mega Pro owners that find this video!
Hi there, thanks fort he tutorial, its very helpful! I just dont get one thing.
At 5:42 the X on the cube is facing to the front of the printer (as on every tutorial i saw), so that would mean the distance withe the X on the face measures actually the Y dimensions (front to back).
Or do I think wrong?
Same problem with the Y axis, the only one which seems correct is Z.
Thank you for an explanation
Hey Dave, thanks for the comment. I see what you're saying, that could just be caused by me not rotating the cube the correct direction in the slicer. I just had to make sure that I measured the cube as it was oriented on my plate, so I measured the width of the X & Y faces rather than the depth. I hope that makes sense, thanks again for the comment!
@@ModernHobbyist oh sure that makes sense, if you measure the width of the cube instead of the depth. Thanks for the answer!
My under extrusion is 78 mm?! Is that even possible? I recently upgraded my stepper drivers and my first two prints (test owls and a larger print I designed) came out beautifully. But since then I have had constant under extrusion.
I've tried . . .
New capricorn bowden tube
New nozzle
cleaning out the extruder
mesh levelled the bed
Still under extruding. Could I really be 78 mm off? Do I need to adjust my voltage on stepper driver? Please help!
Actually in my experience the underextrusion can be caused by lots of factors, sometimes by the condition of the filament(old filaments under extrude especially if the filament is exposed to high humidity) by the extruder not griping enough of the filament (the stock extruder of the ender 3 v2 is ok the first few prints, after many months it doesn't grip well slipping sometimes, also if the plastic arm isn't broken first) or maybe there's a partial blockage at the intersection of the bowden tube and nozzle. Try to look at each of this possible problems.
Thank you! Does updating the firmware (due to some other changes, e.g. probe offset value) change these M500 values or the values of the printer calibration that was done?
Hey Walter, thanks for the comment! From my experience, yes it clears the calibrations values to the defaults defined by the firmware. Hope that helps!
Modern Hobbyist . Thank you. I was wondering if it was some steps that I had forgotten to do or maybe my firmware Marlin 1.1.9 Bugfix has a problem. I had to do the bed levelling each time I made a change upload on Marlin.
do you have to calibrate the extruder every time when you change the spool filament?
No, you're good to go.
Hi could you please explain where to get the program that you calibrate the printer is it something that you buy is it something you can download for free please explain thank you
Hey Eli, thanks for the comment! If you are talking about the terminal I send commands to the printer with, that is OctoPrint running on a Raspberry Pi which is connected to the printer. You could also use PronterFace (www.pronterface.com/) or another similar program, but you need one that will show you the serial printout from the printer, which Ultimaker Cura won't do. Hope that helps!
I flashed the latest *stock* 1.4.6 firmware from your other video, to my Mega X (not i3Mega?). Flash went perfect. But now, my zero and home is completely wrong. It used to print super reliably with the nozzle tip homing to the bottom far left. Now, it's homing somewhere mid-X, and almost off the Y and I'm unsure what the Z is doing, but when homing, it's exceeding some limit and starts making a noise as if it's trying to move past a fixed stop. Using octoprint terminal, how can I re-zero to the correct location, so my prints I slice in cura will print in the correct location on my ultrabase? I hope my explanation is clear. Thank you.
So you installed the stock anycubic firmware? Or you switched to the version of Marlin that I linked to in the description?
Modern Hobbyist I flashed your file, the 1.4.6. Stock i3 hex. Loaded fine. On printer screen and special menu was there. But when I tried to Home all axes, it kid of went crazy. I think it needs its own firmware. Bigger build vol 300x300x305 and maybe other differences? Any advice?
Oh I see! When I read Mega X, I was thinking the Mega S, which is basically the same as the i3 Mega. My guess is you'll have to start from scratch to get the Marlin firmware working for you, which is definitely an option, as the Marlin firmware is open source. Otherwise, you could certainly reach out to Dave Ramiro (the original creator of the firmware I used) and he may be able to help you out.
The last option would be to reflash the stock firmware which is available on Anycubic's site.
Let me know if that answers your questions!.
Modern Hobbyist I see what your question is. You had 3 files. 2 were for upgraded steppers. 1 was for unmodified “stock” steppers. That’s the hex I flashed. Sorry.
I dont have a raspberry pi...how can I use octoprint with my tronxy x5sa?
Thanks for the comment! Since OctoPrint is written in Python, it’s possible to run it on any computer that supports Python. I haven’t actually done it, but it shouldn’t be too hard. Here is a link for getting it set up on Windows: community.octoprint.org/t/setting-up-octoprint-on-windows/383
is there any other software i can use instead of octoprint on mt pc?
Hey thanks for the comment! I have also used Pronterface to connect to my printer and send commands, though I found it a little less intuitive than OctoPrint. Hope that helps!
www.pronterface.com/
Is there another way to calibrate the stepper motors without octoprint ? Sorry if I missed something just making sure
Sure! You just need a way of sending Goode commands to the printer and receiving the response. For me that was OctoPrint, but there are other tools
@@ModernHobbyist thanks for the quick response. I'll try to look up some other ways of doing it. Thanks again
Repetier-Host or Pronterface
Nice explanation! Placing a post it note is +/- 3 mm and the measurements you are using for calculations is +/- 0.1 mm. I think a more accurate way of marking off 120 mm of filament is in order.
what's an error range that is acceptable?
About .002 is what some say
Hey mate, doing this on a ender 3 Pro, when i put M501 It says no eeprom? Any ideas? Cheers
Hey Samuel, thanks for the comment! EEPROM stands for Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory and is used to store settings and configurations so that they are retrievable after rebooting or unplugging your printer. I'm not sure why yours is saying No EEPROM, but I know that is a configuration option on Marlin, so it could be that your printer doesn't have EEPROM_SETTINGS enabled.
I don't have an Ender so it's hard to say, but check out this link and let me know if it helps you get things going:
letsprint3d.net/how-to-calibrate-the-extruder-steps-ender-3-5-cr-10/
Also this link might help: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html
Thanks again for the comment!
How do it find the current e value?
You'll need a method of communicating with the printer via the command line, I use OctoPrint's terminal tab. I then send the command M503 which will list all your current steps/mm settings. Hope that helps!
What if the print comes out slanted?
I send the code g1 e100 f100, but my printer does nothing...please help me.
Hey Mark, thanks for the comment! What tool are you using to send the GCode to the printer, and are you getting any text response from the printer?
Good job Thanks In your intro to content you show a very poorly cared for solder iron tip.
Great video ...if you have octoprint.
Thanks for the comment! If you don't have OctoPrint, you can use other tools like Pronterface to do the command line parts: www.pronterface.com/
@@ModernHobbyist thanks for that. I've been doing searches but it has not been clear which is the correct tool. Thank you for clarifying
@@ModernHobbyist and I meant it. Great video
@@mickeyflint6825 No problem! Thanks for watching!
Him: It could maybe be 25! or even 15!!!!!
Me over here under extruding by 100mm😳
hello, i followed your step by step to install marlin, since then i wasnt able to print anything, it seemed to be underextruding. so i went on to do the calibration as shown in this video. I marked my filament at 120mm and sent the G1E100F100 code from cura and my filament still measures 96.69mm. This is the line i get from pronterface: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E92.60
The tightening screw isn't loose, it pulls just fine.
what else could it be?
damn it. I have the problem. Did you solve it?
@@halitburakyesildal2869 yes, it was the e steps. I thought it should be more or less 100 but it depends on the stepper mottor. On the mega s its about 420 i think.
When i did the firmware flash it may have changed the e steps.
Answer is do the same procedure as the video and change your e steps according to the calculation and you should be fine.
Let me know if it works, if not ill try to give more info
@@johnf4388 I've found new E value around 7120 and I'm over
@@halitburakyesildal2869 you re on a mega S, with stock extruder?
If so, 7000 steps is probably wrong.
As you can see on my first comment, after the marlin upgrade i had 92 after i corrected it it was 396.
Make sure to save your changes.
Let me know if you got it working. When i have a min ill check and let you know the exact steps i took to make it work and the correct values for my machine
@@johnf4388 yeah exactly
helpful vid but you did the equations a bit too quick for me and i didnt understand why the 1st value was 120
Hey Ben thanks for the comment! I used 120 in the equation because that is the length I chose to measure out on the filament before I extruded 100mm. So, ideally you would have exactly 20mm left after you measure out 120mm and extrude 100. Hope that makes sense!
@@ModernHobbyist sorry should have been clearer, i got that bit but you also had 120 on the X & Y calibration equation which confused me as the cube is 20mm
@@BenMillen Oh I see! Good catch! That 120mm should be 20mm, sorry for the confusion!
@@ModernHobbyist cool, thank you that makes sense 😊
I tried this on my Mega S, and I was under extruding by 77.21mm! Is this possible?!
Yeah, I was amazed by how much my Mega was off!
@@airalex1919 Me too! I was sure it was in error!
Yes me too and I have not been able yet to configure fine
Finally I followed the steps from here and works fine kore.cc/i3mega/doc/
some missing steps in the video that are for the mega S
If you are using this on a Mega-S, those four additional commands are necessary:
M92 E384 - set correct steps for the new extruder
M203 E30 - limit extruder feedrate
M204 R1500.00 - lower retract acceleration
M500 - save the values
Calibration
Extruder Calibration
Get your old E-Steps with M503. Look for the line starting with M92, the value after the E are your current steps.
Preheat the hotend with M104 S220
Send M83 to prepare the extruder
Use a caliper or measuring tape and mark 120 mm (measured downwards from the extruder intake) with a pencil on the filament
Send G1 E100 F100
Your extruder will feed 100 mm of filament now (takes 60 seconds)
Measure where your pencil marking is now. If it's exactly 20 mm to the extruder, it's perfectly calibrated
If it's less or more than 20 mm, subtract that value from 120 mm, e.g.:
If you measure 25 mm, your result would be 95 mm. If you measure 15 mm, your result would be 105 mm
Calculate your new value: (100 mm / actually extruded filament) *your current E-steps (default: i3 Mega 92.6, Mega-S 384)
For example, if your markings are at 15 mm, you'd calculate: (100/105) * 92.6 = 88.19
Put in the new value like this: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 Exxx.xx, replacing x with your value
Save with M500
Finish with M82
You can repeat the process if you want to get even more precise, you'd have to replace your current E-steps with your newly calibrated value in the next calculation.
do you have to have a pie to do this
I did the m503 command and I never got anything back
Hmmm, which program did you use to send the command, and which printer were you sending it to?
through octo print
@@ModernHobbyist