I'm an Integrated Pest Management Specialist familiar with predatory mite bionomics research and their implementation. What is the empirical evidence that informs your statement that Neoseiulus fallacis does not typically need reapplication, or is superior to predators like Neoseiulus cucumeris or N. californicus in terms of kill rate? Most of these plant-pest-predator interactions can be highly contextual, so I am always curious to hear where the reasoning comes from these sorts of statements.
Hi. I follow your work. We have mutual partners. Studies on fallacis are worth looking up. They are incredible. Much of the work is with Ag Canada, and Applied Bio-Nomics references much of the original work. It is also native in Europe, and much of that work was done in Warsaw.
@@gardeningwithbugs721 Excellent, what are those specific studies? I am curious about the crops and other contextual factors the research data adumbrate.
Looks like that brand doesn't ship to the Eastern US? Anyway, thanks for another very informative video. I was wandering if you have similar insights on the squash vine borers?
You should be able to get it from two separate companies: Evergreen Growers Supply sells from the producers: Biotactics and also Applied Bio-Nomics. I’ve had a few questions about the squash vine borer, but I have no professional experience with it. I’ll start digging, thanks.
@Gardening with Bugs Subscribed and looking forward to any information you find regarding the Vine Borer. They're horrible here in the Southeastern US.
I'm still looking into this a bit. But official information seems to recommend planting squash varieties that are not favoured by the borer (cucumbers, butternut...etc). Row covers to prevent to adults from laying their eggs in stems and cultural practices of crop rotation and heavy tilling (to kill the larva in the soil). From a gardening perspective, you can also cut into the stem and remove the larvae. Apparently when the plant wilts, the point below where the leaves are not wilting is where the larva is. A long slit with a knife is able to expose the larva as well as heal itself. This really sounds like a tough pest.
@@gardeningwithbugs721 thank you very much. I was hoping there was a specific predator for this pest. Yeah, I have all sort of pests in my garden. The borer is the only one that really bothers me.
Hi, Which Predatory mite can be used against Mold Mites (in my out door BBQ). I have tried vinegar, borax, and a spray bomb…. not effective methods so far. I believe the scientific name is Tyrophagus putrescentiae for Mold Mites.
Hi. Tyrophagus putrecentiae is known as a grain mite. It is actually reared intentionally as a food source to produce beneficial mites. If it is the same mite, then most predatory mites will do the trick....if they want to hang out in your bbq. I would recommend Cucumeris (cheapest) or Fallacis (most likely to stick around). However, without plants, they will not be likely to lay eggs, so the mold mites may be able to reproduce faster.
I just discovered your channel. I don't like to subscribe to channels because it gets too cumbersome, but your video is so succint and relevant that I subscribed and will be promoting your channel on a couple gardening blogs in which I participate. I have one question about your video and 2 about you, if you don't mind them. You say not to spray plants with anything from the cupboard. Does that mean dish soap, applying neem oil, etc? If so, why? Do you have another video where you discuss this? My questions about you: how do you know so much about insects? And your haircut makes me think that you served somewhere - military, police, etc.? It's completely irrelevant, I know, but it's just a thing that my youngest son and I do because he wants to either join the military or go into law enforcement. Thanks again for the great information!
Hi there. Thank you so much for the feedback and the questions. First, you are the second person in a few days to ask that I do a video on the "home remedies" or soaps. So I will get on that right away. In the meantime, yes, that applies to dish soaps, pureed onion are cayenne - or the like, and acid based washes. The reason is (while they DO kill bugs), they kill all bugs (good and bad), damage the outer-coating of the leaves, and leave residues or cause plant-reactions that can dissuade predators from visiting the plants after. Neem oil is different. Oils like neem work by smothering insects. So they also work, but kill indescrimately, and almost never kill every pest because of its inability to kill all life stages and cover all plant material. However, what's great about neem is the residual effects are much less potent than any other chemical and beneficial insects can thrive on a plant treated with neem sometimes as early as when it has dried. The only problem with neem is it has become so popular, that many off the shelf "neem" products are now mixed with other chemicals to cut down on cost or make them more "effective." I have been a firefighter for 19 years, so that might explain the connection you saw to the military. And I'm laughing about that, because, while I don't think I chose the hair cut for any particular reason, a friend of mine (another firefighter) and I have twice been approached because someone thought we were likely off-duty police officers or in the military. And while we're on that topic I'd encourage you to recommend firefighting to your son. A police officer is issued a gun; a firefighter is issued a pillow. :) As for the content I share: Along with firefighting (volunteer firefighter, career firefighter and back to volunteering) I was also a high school teacher, but all along I worked at the same company I started with as an after-school job in grade 9. The company produces beneficial insects for pest control. So while I started washing pots I eventually learned to rear insects and mites, which included growing greenhouse plants, growing the pests and then growing the predator. When employed as a firefighter I had the time off to do crop consultation in the greenhouse industry. All along I have loved gardening, so I decided to go back to my Bug-rearing company. A few years ago my family and I bought the company, and I left the career firefighting position to take this on full-time. So while my videos aren't affiliated with the company, the information I have is largely the combination of growing/gardening experience and what I've learned through the industry. So, thanks again for your questions and feedback. It was my wife who suggested I make videos after I had been writing articles for years, which has less reach and takes about as much time. So I'm encouraged to continue to share the information I have. Thanks again!
@@gardeningwithbugs721 thank you so much for the complete response! I'm excited to see your upcoming videos. I've only been gardening for 2 months. I started due to the concern with upcoming food storage, but now, I'm just obsessed with gardening. They are my green children. I check on them several times a day. I lovingly stare out the window at them. I go see them even before having my coffee. Lol Anyway, just yesterday I discovered aphids (I think) on one of my plants. I was an offended parent, as if my children were being bullied. I went to work straightaway to remove them by hand, and to my added horror, I found a worm of some sort. Now, I'm 😡! I took it off and, not knowing what to do with it, flung it across the yard. That'll show him! Only to realize that it may have been a hover fly larvae. 😥 Anyway, I don't know if you compost, but if you do, that would be great too. I watched A LOT of videos from nurseries, worm farms, and gardeners before I bought my worms, and yet I find that I don't know as much as I thought. You are so good at explaining that I'd love to hear your 1-2-3s and tips and tricks. Disclaimer: I haven't searched your channel for this, but I will. Thanks again for your content, for your volunteer work, and for your example as a family man (much needed today!) Have a great weekend!
Not really. They are one of the more common and important predatory insects in the yard. If you wish to reduce their numbers, it's usually best to remove some cover and lay-off the compost. Their numbers tend to increase when there are more composting insects for them to feed on. Their plant damage is usually a result in them running out of pest-food.
The soil mite Stratiolaelaps can be applied now to the crowns of plants to eat the larvae right after they hatch. But the adults laying the eggs will continue to damage plants and lay eggs for another month and a half. The soil mite effects will be noticed in the second generation: those that hatch late summer. Row covers are also important to keep beetles out.
Fantastic info! So happy to have found your channel. (*‿*✿) Any chance you may know any controls for woolly adelgid and June bugs? These two have been madding to deal with in our yard the past few years. Our poor hemlocks are struggling w/woolly adelgid . A local arborist (recco by our conservation district) had us use a mallet insecticide this past spring so I'm not too sure what we will be dealing moving forward. I hated the idea of using an insecticide, but we don't want to lose our trees. Please keep making content, it's so valuable. This said, I know how much work it is. Much appreciated.
6:15 LOL!
Nice work - great information
Great video man, lots of really helpful information
Thank you
Nice information. I learned a lot. Thank you.
Thank you!
I'm an Integrated Pest Management Specialist familiar with predatory mite bionomics research and their implementation. What is the empirical evidence that informs your statement that Neoseiulus fallacis does not typically need reapplication, or is superior to predators like Neoseiulus cucumeris or N. californicus in terms of kill rate? Most of these plant-pest-predator interactions can be highly contextual, so I am always curious to hear where the reasoning comes from these sorts of statements.
Hi. I follow your work. We have mutual partners.
Studies on fallacis are worth looking up. They are incredible. Much of the work is with Ag Canada, and Applied Bio-Nomics references much of the original work. It is also native in Europe, and much of that work was done in Warsaw.
@@gardeningwithbugs721 Excellent, what are those specific studies? I am curious about the crops and other contextual factors the research data adumbrate.
Looks like that brand doesn't ship to the Eastern US? Anyway, thanks for another very informative video. I was wandering if you have similar insights on the squash vine borers?
You should be able to get it from two separate companies: Evergreen Growers Supply sells from the producers: Biotactics and also Applied Bio-Nomics.
I’ve had a few questions about the squash vine borer, but I have no professional experience with it. I’ll start digging, thanks.
@@gardeningwithbugs721 Got it. Thank you.
@Gardening with Bugs Subscribed and looking forward to any information you find regarding the Vine Borer. They're horrible here in the Southeastern US.
I'm still looking into this a bit. But official information seems to recommend planting squash varieties that are not favoured by the borer (cucumbers, butternut...etc). Row covers to prevent to adults from laying their eggs in stems and cultural practices of crop rotation and heavy tilling (to kill the larva in the soil). From a gardening perspective, you can also cut into the stem and remove the larvae. Apparently when the plant wilts, the point below where the leaves are not wilting is where the larva is. A long slit with a knife is able to expose the larva as well as heal itself.
This really sounds like a tough pest.
@@gardeningwithbugs721 thank you very much. I was hoping there was a specific predator for this pest. Yeah, I have all sort of pests in my garden. The borer is the only one that really bothers me.
Hi,
Which Predatory mite can be used against Mold Mites (in my out door BBQ).
I have tried vinegar, borax, and a spray bomb…. not effective methods so far.
I believe the scientific name is Tyrophagus putrescentiae for Mold Mites.
Hi. Tyrophagus putrecentiae is known as a grain mite. It is actually reared intentionally as a food source to produce beneficial mites. If it is the same mite, then most predatory mites will do the trick....if they want to hang out in your bbq. I would recommend Cucumeris (cheapest) or Fallacis (most likely to stick around). However, without plants, they will not be likely to lay eggs, so the mold mites may be able to reproduce faster.
I can send you all the Fallacis you need
Details mate
I just discovered your channel. I don't like to subscribe to channels because it gets too cumbersome, but your video is so succint and relevant that I subscribed and will be promoting your channel on a couple gardening blogs in which I participate.
I have one question about your video and 2 about you, if you don't mind them. You say not to spray plants with anything from the cupboard. Does that mean dish soap, applying neem oil, etc? If so, why? Do you have another video where you discuss this?
My questions about you: how do you know so much about insects? And your haircut makes me think that you served somewhere - military, police, etc.? It's completely irrelevant, I know, but it's just a thing that my youngest son and I do because he wants to either join the military or go into law enforcement.
Thanks again for the great information!
Hi there. Thank you so much for the feedback and the questions.
First, you are the second person in a few days to ask that I do a video on the "home remedies" or soaps. So I will get on that right away. In the meantime, yes, that applies to dish soaps, pureed onion are cayenne - or the like, and acid based washes. The reason is (while they DO kill bugs), they kill all bugs (good and bad), damage the outer-coating of the leaves, and leave residues or cause plant-reactions that can dissuade predators from visiting the plants after. Neem oil is different. Oils like neem work by smothering insects. So they also work, but kill indescrimately, and almost never kill every pest because of its inability to kill all life stages and cover all plant material. However, what's great about neem is the residual effects are much less potent than any other chemical and beneficial insects can thrive on a plant treated with neem sometimes as early as when it has dried. The only problem with neem is it has become so popular, that many off the shelf "neem" products are now mixed with other chemicals to cut down on cost or make them more "effective."
I have been a firefighter for 19 years, so that might explain the connection you saw to the military. And I'm laughing about that, because, while I don't think I chose the hair cut for any particular reason, a friend of mine (another firefighter) and I have twice been approached because someone thought we were likely off-duty police officers or in the military. And while we're on that topic I'd encourage you to recommend firefighting to your son. A police officer is issued a gun; a firefighter is issued a pillow. :)
As for the content I share: Along with firefighting (volunteer firefighter, career firefighter and back to volunteering) I was also a high school teacher, but all along I worked at the same company I started with as an after-school job in grade 9. The company produces beneficial insects for pest control. So while I started washing pots I eventually learned to rear insects and mites, which included growing greenhouse plants, growing the pests and then growing the predator. When employed as a firefighter I had the time off to do crop consultation in the greenhouse industry. All along I have loved gardening, so I decided to go back to my Bug-rearing company. A few years ago my family and I bought the company, and I left the career firefighting position to take this on full-time. So while my videos aren't affiliated with the company, the information I have is largely the combination of growing/gardening experience and what I've learned through the industry.
So, thanks again for your questions and feedback. It was my wife who suggested I make videos after I had been writing articles for years, which has less reach and takes about as much time. So I'm encouraged to continue to share the information I have. Thanks again!
@@gardeningwithbugs721 thank you so much for the complete response!
I'm excited to see your upcoming videos. I've only been gardening for 2 months. I started due to the concern with upcoming food storage, but now, I'm just obsessed with gardening. They are my green children. I check on them several times a day. I lovingly stare out the window at them. I go see them even before having my coffee. Lol
Anyway, just yesterday I discovered aphids (I think) on one of my plants. I was an offended parent, as if my children were being bullied. I went to work straightaway to remove them by hand, and to my added horror, I found a worm of some sort. Now, I'm 😡! I took it off and, not knowing what to do with it, flung it across the yard. That'll show him! Only to realize that it may have been a hover fly larvae. 😥
Anyway, I don't know if you compost, but if you do, that would be great too. I watched A LOT of videos from nurseries, worm farms, and gardeners before I bought my worms, and yet I find that I don't know as much as I thought. You are so good at explaining that I'd love to hear your 1-2-3s and tips and tricks. Disclaimer: I haven't searched your channel for this, but I will.
Thanks again for your content, for your volunteer work, and for your example as a family man (much needed today!) Have a great weekend!
Any suggestions for earwigs
Not really. They are one of the more common and important predatory insects in the yard. If you wish to reduce their numbers, it's usually best to remove some cover and lay-off the compost. Their numbers tend to increase when there are more composting insects for them to feed on. Their plant damage is usually a result in them running out of pest-food.
Do you have any advice for an available predator or control methods for flea beetles? They are very voracious in my area and really cause me problems.
The soil mite Stratiolaelaps can be applied now to the crowns of plants to eat the larvae right after they hatch. But the adults laying the eggs will continue to damage plants and lay eggs for another month and a half. The soil mite effects will be noticed in the second generation: those that hatch late summer. Row covers are also important to keep beetles out.
Thank you very much
Fantastic info!
So happy to have found your channel. (*‿*✿)
Any chance you may know any controls for woolly adelgid and June bugs?
These two have been madding to deal with in our yard the past few years.
Our poor hemlocks are struggling w/woolly adelgid .
A local arborist (recco by our conservation district) had us use a mallet insecticide this past spring so I'm not too sure what we will be dealing moving forward.
I hated the idea of using an insecticide, but we don't want to lose our trees.
Please keep making content, it's so valuable. This said, I know how much work it is.
Much appreciated.