Thank you, Gardener Scott for showing my picture and the shout out to my channel! I was driving while listening to your show today and when I heard my name I almost swerved off the road! Lady and I love your Monday shows!
I got accepted into the Master Gardener program in California. Thank you for the shout out about watching your viedos and I have previously watched all your live And I just started watching simplified gardening with Tony.
We have a small garden. 20x30 with 3 additional 4x8 raised beds. 2, 20' trellis's, a 6' trellis, and 40-50 buckets. We know what we need to get us through Winter so failure, (quitting tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, nightshades,) blight, isn't an option. All potatoes are in buckets, the peppers in a dedicated bed, and tomatoes get rotated every year. 6 plants. In 1 raised bed, moved around the 3 raised beds in 3 years. Garlic is in the rotation, and the 3rd bed in the rotation is a very early crop of brassica's and spinach.2 beds get replanted at least twice. Nightshades susceptible to blight, vine borers all vining plants, Japanese Beetles munch up Peas and beans then anything left in sight, and 3 years of drought. I agree most crops don't "need" to be rotated but, if rotating tomato plants keeps me from pulling and burning plants, it's worth the effort. We are in in Maine, zone 5, 5b, so same climate, temps, and season length. all about the same as yours Scott. Our seasons are far too short most years. No room for mistakes. TYFS
Hi Gardner Scott I really enjoy your channel. I'm doing no dig next year so I will not be worrying about rotation now ive mulched with my homemade compost to get the soil food web going.👍🎃
I think I have the opposite problem to most people. I made my raised beds without soil. I filled the bottom with stumps, twigs, cardboard, grass, leaves, stable clearings etc and the top with mushroom compost, peat and well rotted manure. Is almost too soft and crumbly. The first year had a lot of sinkage but that has slowed now. The beds are either 1 foot or 2 foot high, depending on the location. Should I be adding rock dust to compensate for being effectively 'soilless'?
Soilless mixes usually provide the primary nutrients plants need. Minerals from rock dust or native soil can provide micronutrients that might not be available otherwise and can improve the structure of the soil.
Happy Halloween… You might take a poll I myself have loved a lot of your videos but I have no time to listen/waste any minutes there’s not that much time left and I want to spend time on gardening
Happy Holloween😜 Enjoying replay again😉🇦🇺 Chicken manure is good to put in the compost bin now and then, like other manures. I use free horse manure from a local Racetrack and it’s stables nearby. Thoughts on Comfrey to benefit the soil. Resting beds in crop rotation. Chicken Tractor on a larger garden, great to eating cover crops
I thought that before I found out about the soil food web. I have onion white rot and I'm adding homemade compost to give the soil life so it can hopefully recover. My leeks seem ok after I planted them in the same space as my onions. I've also just p!anted garlic in the same space, fingers crossed they turn out ok. 👍🎃
Are there any scientific papers on rock-dust effectiveness? I'm still skeptical about using such products (especially in pots), as I'm concerned that the minerals might not accessible to plants. I would really like to understand this. Thanks for the great videos, I always look forward to the Monday streams!
There are conflicting reports on both sides. Minerals in soil is important and why I prefer native soil. The minerals are not available to plants without the soil microbes so even in containers soil life is important.
I have a QUESTION: I have that tan clay soil and about 10" down, it turns white. I am in SW OHIO. If I use fertilizer in the fall as I'm keeping plants happy until the freeze, will the fertilizer leach out or still be available for spring planting? I use a hand full of 13-13-13 under the fall plants with a few inches of soil mixed in, then the plants on top with garden soil and compost. I don't want to over fertilize come spring. I planted My butternut squash where I usually grow peas and beans and wow, what a harvest! Also, thank you for being you! I look forward to your April Fools Day video every year now!
Fertilizer in fall usually isn't needed because it will promote new, young plant growth that can be damaged in winter. The nitrogen in the fertilizer can leach out before plants use it in spring if you get heavy rain. Thanks!
Again, sorry if you already address this. I watch on replay and it can get late. I am not worried about the soil life. I worry about things like squash bugs or tomato leaf wilt. Any idea?
After listening to this, I am concerned about my garlic. I'm in north Alabama zone 7 and I planted my garlic after the first freeze (mid October) and a few weeks of cool weather. The past two weeks however, have been quite warm and the garlic is thriving. (The 7 day forcast calls for temperatures ranging from 26-81 degrees F.) My concern is this: is this too much growth for the fall? My garlic is about 8-10 inches tall now. Comments from everyone are welcome.
Usually we try to avoid garlic growing that much. While garlic is very hardy, if you have a very cold winter you may see some damage. It probably won't kill the plants but may result in smaller bulbs.
@@GardenerScott- Thank you! I've heard you say Mondays, but I hadn't heard what time. I'm in Central Time so one hour earlier. Hopefully I'll be able to watch you live on the 7th.
Scott, I planted my garlic 2-3 weeks ago (zone 8 - UK). Its already sprouted, I thought I’d have to wait til spring. Weather has been about normal for the time of year. Is this ok?
Usually garlic is planted later in warmer areas like zone 8. You can mulch heavily to reduce leaf damage until your cold temperatures arrive. But there will probably be some damage depending on how big they grow before then.
Hi mine have sprouted too already, I'm in the Midlands England, I've netted mine to protect them a bit, but they're at my allotment so I try to protect everything!👍 they should be ok if they're sheltered a bit.🎃👍
Thank you, Gardener Scott for showing my picture and the shout out to my channel! I was driving while listening to your show today and when I heard my name I almost swerved off the road! Lady and I love your Monday shows!
I saw that picture in the background and remembered how much of a mess I have in front of me to work on this winter. Very nice garden!
@@joefrancis759 Thank you, and yes, chores galore!
I got accepted into the Master Gardener program in California. Thank you for the shout out about watching your viedos and I have previously watched all your live And I just started watching simplified gardening with Tony.
Congratulations. I hope you enjoy the Master Gardener program.
Watching you and my other gardening channels every day gets me through the long days when I can't be in my garden. I learn so much!
Hello from Chesterfield, Virginia 👋
Thanks GS for all you do!
catching up on this now .! thanks Gardener Scott!
We have a small garden. 20x30 with 3 additional 4x8 raised beds. 2, 20'
trellis's, a 6' trellis, and 40-50 buckets. We know what we need to get us
through Winter so failure, (quitting tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, nightshades,)
blight, isn't an option. All potatoes are in buckets, the peppers in a dedicated
bed, and tomatoes get rotated every year. 6 plants. In 1 raised bed, moved
around the 3 raised beds in 3 years. Garlic is in the rotation, and the 3rd bed
in the rotation is a very early crop of brassica's and spinach.2 beds get replanted
at least twice. Nightshades susceptible to blight, vine borers all vining plants,
Japanese Beetles munch up Peas and beans then anything left in sight, and
3 years of drought.
I agree most crops don't "need" to be rotated but, if rotating tomato plants
keeps me from pulling and burning plants, it's worth the effort.
We are in in Maine, zone 5, 5b, so same climate, temps, and season length.
all about the same as yours Scott. Our seasons are far too short most years.
No room for mistakes.
TYFS
Thank you for everything
Hi Gardner Scott I really enjoy your channel. I'm doing no dig next year so I will not be worrying about rotation now ive mulched with my homemade compost to get the soil food web going.👍🎃
I think I have the opposite problem to most people. I made my raised beds without soil. I filled the bottom with stumps, twigs, cardboard, grass, leaves, stable clearings etc and the top with mushroom compost, peat and well rotted manure. Is almost too soft and crumbly. The first year had a lot of sinkage but that has slowed now. The beds are either 1 foot or 2 foot high, depending on the location.
Should I be adding rock dust to compensate for being effectively 'soilless'?
This is a great question…curious to hear GS thoughts
Soilless mixes usually provide the primary nutrients plants need. Minerals from rock dust or native soil can provide micronutrients that might not be available otherwise and can improve the structure of the soil.
Happy Halloween… You might take a poll I myself have loved a lot of your videos but I have no time to listen/waste any minutes there’s not that much time left and I want to spend time on gardening
🎃 Happy Halloween 🎃 Thank you for all of your expertise.
Happy Holloween😜
Enjoying replay again😉🇦🇺
Chicken manure is good to put in the compost bin now and then, like other manures.
I use free horse manure from a local Racetrack and it’s stables nearby.
Thoughts on Comfrey to benefit the soil.
Resting beds in crop rotation.
Chicken Tractor on a larger garden, great to eating cover crops
It seems to me preventing soil borne disease would be one of the main reasons for rotating crops.
I thought that before I found out about the soil food web. I have onion white rot and I'm adding homemade compost to give the soil life so it can hopefully recover. My leeks seem ok after I planted them in the same space as my onions. I've also just p!anted garlic in the same space, fingers crossed they turn out ok. 👍🎃
Are there any scientific papers on rock-dust effectiveness? I'm still skeptical about using such products (especially in pots), as I'm concerned that the minerals might not accessible to plants. I would really like to understand this. Thanks for the great videos, I always look forward to the Monday streams!
There are conflicting reports on both sides. Minerals in soil is important and why I prefer native soil. The minerals are not available to plants without the soil microbes so even in containers soil life is important.
Hi Scott happy Halloween seen you do this with Tony o,nelly
Happy Irish Halloween
Does rotation help with resisting pests though? Squash bugs, horn wor.s, etc...
As I discussed in the show, it can have an impact depending on the type of pest.
I have a QUESTION: I have that tan clay soil and about 10" down, it turns white. I am in SW OHIO. If I use fertilizer in the fall as I'm keeping plants happy until the freeze, will the fertilizer leach out or still be available for spring planting? I use a hand full of 13-13-13 under the fall plants with a few inches of soil mixed in, then the plants on top with garden soil and compost. I don't want to over fertilize come spring. I planted My butternut squash where I usually grow peas and beans and wow, what a harvest! Also, thank you for being you! I look forward to your April Fools Day video every year now!
Fertilizer in fall usually isn't needed because it will promote new, young plant growth that can be damaged in winter. The nitrogen in the fertilizer can leach out before plants use it in spring if you get heavy rain. Thanks!
Scott how do I keep powdery from coming back next year in containers thanks.
Air circulation is a deterrent for powdery mildew. Try to avoid overcrowding plants.
Again, sorry if you already address this. I watch on replay and it can get late. I am not worried about the soil life. I worry about things like squash bugs or tomato leaf wilt. Any idea?
No need to respond. I just heard your response to squash and tomatoes. Thanks. 😃
After listening to this, I am concerned about my garlic. I'm in north Alabama zone 7 and I planted my garlic after the first freeze (mid October) and a few weeks of cool weather. The past two weeks however, have been quite warm and the garlic is thriving. (The 7 day forcast calls for temperatures ranging from 26-81 degrees F.) My concern is this: is this too much growth for the fall? My garlic is about 8-10 inches tall now. Comments from everyone are welcome.
Usually we try to avoid garlic growing that much. While garlic is very hardy, if you have a very cold winter you may see some damage. It probably won't kill the plants but may result in smaller bulbs.
What time and time zone on Mondays does the live chat start?
I start at 9:oo am Mountain time.
@@GardenerScott- Thank you! I've heard you say Mondays, but I hadn't heard what time. I'm in Central Time so one hour earlier. Hopefully I'll be able to watch you live on the 7th.
Scott, I planted my garlic 2-3 weeks ago (zone 8 - UK). Its already sprouted, I thought I’d have to wait til spring. Weather has been about normal for the time of year. Is this ok?
Usually garlic is planted later in warmer areas like zone 8. You can mulch heavily to reduce leaf damage until your cold temperatures arrive. But there will probably be some damage depending on how big they grow before then.
Hi mine have sprouted too already, I'm in the Midlands England, I've netted mine to protect them a bit, but they're at my allotment so I try to protect everything!👍 they should be ok if they're sheltered a bit.🎃👍
Thank you both. I’ll try your suggestions
How does basalt stack up vs azomite?
They are similar, but Azomite claims to have many more nutrients.