Spoiler! Mejdi Schalck showing how M4 is done afterwards www.reddit.com/r/bouldering/comments/12wtz23/how_m4_of_ifsc_japan_was_meant_to_be_done_mejdi/?context=3
YOU ARE A SAINT!!!! Tysm for uploading this. I was already getting a little bit desperate bc I couldn't figure out a way to watch it without a VPN. RUclips obviously doesn't work anymore in Europe (thanks for that IFSC...) so I thought I'd watch it a day later on the Olympic channel (as I did last year, too). But guess what, the video there is also restricted in my country. That's so ridicioulous, what are they even thinking?
The complete comp should be watchable now on the olympic Channel, I don't know why they need more time to make it accessible for everyone. Bit annoying, but good that you liked my recap :)
Yes, OC Olympic Channel is often too late with the stream. I wait and wait. This time the women's finals were there on monday, but both semis and the men's finals were not. I wrote an email to Olympics Support - and they answered the next day and made the stream available on tuesday. Last season I wrote many emails. I miss the livestreams on YT, the comments, and rewatching comps two later on a rainy sunday afternoon.
A run and jump at 2 meters (M3) seems a bit silly if you ask me, presenting unnecessary risks for the athletes and seemingly making them hold back, leading to suboptimal climbing which is not great to watch either.
@@theclimbingchannel I thought M4 was ok but having two coordination jump problems (ie, M3 and M4) seemed out of place. M3 placing the run-and-jump at height felt like the routesetters were trying too hard to find a new way of mixing up the run-and-jump.
Maybe they wanted a run and jump that was more across than upwards. It is difficult to set that at 0 height. But they could have done that at like half the height. I somehow liked the start, but it it was like they started another boulder when they were at the zone.
This is the pinnacle of performance of the sport. Athletes are more at risk of serious finger injury on the super crimpy boulders than the dynamic movements because they have such strong control of their bodies. Dynamic movements are advancing the sport. I think the setters were 100% justified in m3 and m4
Anraku is really strong, he flashed a boulder in the semi-finals like it was easy, while Ogata and Narasaki had troubles with it. Looking forward to see more from him! It was unfortunate he couldn't get that second boulder
Thanks for uploading! Finished watching and thought "i wonder if anyone has posted footage of how you were supposed to do M4 and sure enough, you pinned it as a comment. You rock. 😊🙏🏻
Thx for the work. I'm always so frustated I can't see how a boulder is done or even the intended beta that climbers skipped (like boulder 4) Is there anywhere to watch it?
I am not aware that there is any footage from the routesetters how they have done it. So I guess we'll never know. The intended beta on boulder 4 though was how Paul Jenft did it in the end
@@theclimbingchannel oh, my bad, I thought that Brooke was on thumbnail, but it was ifsc channel highlight thumbnail :). So now I know that photo has nothing to do with winner
Cheers for the highlights, much appreciated! Another WC ruined by crap setting. The last 2 boulders were just awful to watch and I'm just grateful no climber got seriously hurt attempting that shite!
both m3 and m4 is so dangerous and boring to watch, it also does absolutely nothing on showing who is the better boulderer btw those holds on m2 looks like some kid just rub their shoe on the holds for no reason
Thanks for the upload!! M3 & M4 are the two worse routes I've ever seen. Horrendous job by the routesetters, they made this a very disappointing final.
This is just ridiculous. Extremely boring to watch someone attempt a problem that they know is impossible just by looking at it. Whatever these route setters are smoking I want some.
This has got to be the most boring sport to watch in history. Rather see curlers sliding down the lane then 50 people grab a rock and fall off after 10 seconds
Man the setting is horrible. First of all a jump at that height is dangerous for the athletes. Second of all why are there only ninja like jumpy problems. Thats not climbing/bouldering anymore
Thx for the recap :) but what are those boulders?! All that jumpy and swinging stuff, it's no longer about rock climbing and rather about which route setter can set the most retarded route where flying of the wall in a spectacular and dangerous way matters. But hey, atleast it's spectacular, right...
Dear routesetters, please stop those jumpy problems. Athletes are just wasting time trying and trying. It's so boring to watch. Please make us see the athlete actually climb something instead of trying to be lucky on a jump 🙏
This thumbnail showed in the recommendations list on the right while I was watching the replay of the finals and I got spoiled... not cool for people who didn't even click on this video
Just because there is a picture of mejdi doesn't mean he has won, I don't understand the logic behind that. Is it also a spoiler, if you know the person on the thumbnail hasn't won?
As for the last test, it's absolute nonsense, none of the athletes managed to complete the course, well done to the designer! You are totally incompetent
Spoiler!
Mejdi Schalck showing how M4 is done afterwards
www.reddit.com/r/bouldering/comments/12wtz23/how_m4_of_ifsc_japan_was_meant_to_be_done_mejdi/?context=3
No footage of M3 ? it looked like it was just a matter of a few more tries.
Thanks for the update!
You're doing gods work
YOU ARE A SAINT!!!! Tysm for uploading this. I was already getting a little bit desperate bc I couldn't figure out a way to watch it without a VPN. RUclips obviously doesn't work anymore in Europe (thanks for that IFSC...) so I thought I'd watch it a day later on the Olympic channel (as I did last year, too). But guess what, the video there is also restricted in my country. That's so ridicioulous, what are they even thinking?
The complete comp should be watchable now on the olympic Channel, I don't know why they need more time to make it accessible for everyone. Bit annoying, but good that you liked my recap :)
I am pretty sure it isn't the IFSC, but eurosport that's the issue here...
Why Do you not want to watch it with a vpn?
Yes, OC Olympic Channel is often too late with the stream. I wait and wait. This time the women's finals were there on monday, but both semis and the men's finals were not. I wrote an email to Olympics Support - and they answered the next day and made the stream available on tuesday. Last season I wrote many emails. I miss the livestreams on YT, the comments, and rewatching comps two later on a rainy sunday afternoon.
A run and jump at 2 meters (M3) seems a bit silly if you ask me, presenting unnecessary risks for the athletes and seemingly making them hold back, leading to suboptimal climbing which is not great to watch either.
Totally agree, was also not happy with the setting especially with M4.
@@theclimbingchannel I thought M4 was ok but having two coordination jump problems (ie, M3 and M4) seemed out of place. M3 placing the run-and-jump at height felt like the routesetters were trying too hard to find a new way of mixing up the run-and-jump.
Maybe they wanted a run and jump that was more across than upwards. It is difficult to set that at 0 height. But they could have done that at like half the height. I somehow liked the start, but it it was like they started another boulder when they were at the zone.
Was dangerous, awfull, undone by all of them. Silly indeed
This is the pinnacle of performance of the sport. Athletes are more at risk of serious finger injury on the super crimpy boulders than the dynamic movements because they have such strong control of their bodies. Dynamic movements are advancing the sport. I think the setters were 100% justified in m3 and m4
Would you be willing to do a condensed version of the semis? I'm interested in seeing how the other climbers approached those routes!
Semi had different routes
Anraku is really strong, he flashed a boulder in the semi-finals like it was easy, while Ogata and Narasaki had troubles with it. Looking forward to see more from him! It was unfortunate he couldn't get that second boulder
do you mean strong as in good or strong as in strong?
@@chrissmithdoe2100 good, he is 16, has not peaked in strength yet
@@ginoginoh 16????? my god what am i doing with my life😹
Thanks for uploading! Finished watching and thought "i wonder if anyone has posted footage of how you were supposed to do M4 and sure enough, you pinned it as a comment. You rock. 😊🙏🏻
Thanks for the top quality highlights 👏
Excellent editing. Thanks.
stg i waited all the morning love you
I know I'm not (far from) a top climber, but I honestly thought some of these walls were not possible. Amazing!
That 2nd boulder looks SO hard :D I would never
That last boulder is just impossible.
Impossible to read in 4 minutes. But possible to do. Mejdi did it after the comp.
@@shahridzwan2533 Any footage? curious to see a send
@@nika7 mejdi himself
It has a very specific beta, but even after I saw it I wonder if athletes on the shorter side would be able to do it
@@shahridzwan2533 :o need to se that
Setting is a bit meh on M3 and M4. What's the point of giving the M3 zone for free?
Agreed.
Comment, comment, comment! (RUclips algorithm, are you paying attention?) :)
That last boulder was duuumb
those zebra stipe volumes are trippy to look at
Thx for the work.
I'm always so frustated I can't see how a boulder is done or even the intended beta that climbers skipped (like boulder 4) Is there anywhere to watch it?
I am not aware that there is any footage from the routesetters how they have done it. So I guess we'll never know. The intended beta on boulder 4 though was how Paul Jenft did it in the end
@@victorriverieulx2297 oh cool, I will check it out. Would be nice to see :)
@@victorriverieulx2297 It seemed easier than expected :O guess finding the intended way is a huge step sometimes
They should really push it to 5min each in finals if schedule predictability is the argument for ditching the 4+ format.
@@victorriverieulx2297 where is it? he hasn't posted it
32:05 I don't care this looks so iconic 🔥🔥
the distance between is crazy
Thanks for nice highlights, but please don't spoil winner with thumbnail photo :/
I normally don't have the winner on the thumbnail, so it shouldn't be a spoil
@@theclimbingchannel I thought it is common after women's recap ;), but I hold you to it! Peace
@@Michal_Ce but Hannah hasn't won or what do you mean?
@@theclimbingchannel oh, my bad, I thought that Brooke was on thumbnail, but it was ifsc channel highlight thumbnail :). So now I know that photo has nothing to do with winner
Mejdi!! 🎉
Mejdi Schalck looks like the actor who plays Luffy
Can they use resin (handball) on dual texture?
yesssss
Cheers for the highlights, much appreciated! Another WC ruined by crap setting. The last 2 boulders were just awful to watch and I'm just grateful no climber got seriously hurt attempting that shite!
these boulderproblems become more and more ridiculous
both m3 and m4 is so dangerous and boring to watch, it also does absolutely nothing on showing who is the better boulderer
btw those holds on m2 looks like some kid just rub their shoe on the holds for no reason
Hello ! Why there is only young climber ?
At a younger age you are probably stronger. As far as I know you have your peak performance somewhere mid twenties.
where is beta of the last one ?
I put a Link in the comment with spoiler
4 tops in total. the boulders are too heavy in my opinion
Thanks for the upload!! M3 & M4 are the two worse routes I've ever seen. Horrendous job by the routesetters, they made this a very disappointing final.
Horrible setting
This is just ridiculous. Extremely boring to watch someone attempt a problem that they know is impossible just by looking at it. Whatever these route setters are smoking I want some.
This has got to be the most boring sport to watch in history. Rather see curlers sliding down the lane then 50 people grab a rock and fall off after 10 seconds
Man the setting is horrible. First of all a jump at that height is dangerous for the athletes. Second of all why are there only ninja like jumpy problems. Thats not climbing/bouldering anymore
Thx for the recap :) but what are those boulders?! All that jumpy and swinging stuff, it's no longer about rock climbing and rather about which route setter can set the most retarded route where flying of the wall in a spectacular and dangerous way matters. But hey, atleast it's spectacular, right...
Dear routesetters, please stop those jumpy problems. Athletes are just wasting time trying and trying. It's so boring to watch. Please make us see the athlete actually climb something instead of trying to be lucky on a jump 🙏
Garbage setting , who are the routesetters getting to test these climbs lol
This thumbnail showed in the recommendations list on the right while I was watching the replay of the finals and I got spoiled... not cool for people who didn't even click on this video
Just because there is a picture of mejdi doesn't mean he has won, I don't understand the logic behind that. Is it also a spoiler, if you know the person on the thumbnail hasn't won?
As for the last test, it's absolute nonsense, none of the athletes managed to complete the course, well done to the designer! You are totally incompetent