Even More Boring | Parts Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Some important stuff I didn't get to yesterday.
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These are things I get asked about a lot :
Amp Tech Gear Used :
Hakko FX-951 soldering station
Weller SPG 80L soldering iron (chassis work)
Rigol DS1054Z digital oscilloscope
Thsinde 18B+ digital multimeters
Kester 60/40 solder
Techspray #4 No-Clean Desoldering Braid
Below are things that make this channel possible that people don’t usually think about. If any of these companies want to send me new and wonderful toys, I’m open to that. I can’t take free stuff when it comes to the amps I review, etc, but for the stuff below, bribe away!
Microphones/Audio Equipment :
Guitar Amps : Royer R-10 Hot Rod and/or Shure SM57 (noted in videos)
Voiceover Bench : sE Audio sE8 (small diaphragm condenser)
Voiceover Streaming : Shure SM57 with shockmount and windscreen
Voiceover Mic Arms : Elgato Wave Mic arms
Guitar Mic Stand : Gator Frameworks short weighted base stand with boom
Mic Cables and Guitar Cables : Mogami/Neutrik
Mic pre : MOTU M2
DAW : Logic Pro II on MacBook Pro 16 running Sonoma 14.5
Plugins : No effects other than level matching/normalization unless a recording
specifically has reverb etc added in post (rare, various Waves plugins)
Monitors : Yamaha HS7s
Monitor Stands : Gator Frameworks Desktop Clamp-On Stands
Monitor Isolation Mounts : IsoAcoustics Iso-Puck Minis
Headphones : Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro (main)
Headphones : Sony MDR-7506 (alternate)
Video Equipment :
Camera : Sony ZVE-10 with SmallRig Cage (main)
Lens : Sigma f2.8 18-50mm (main)
Lens : Sony ZVE10 kit lens (rarely used)
B Camera : Apple iPhone 13 Pro (rarely used)
Tripod : SmallRig 71” with SmallRig Fluid Video Head
Streaming Mount : Elgato Master Mount S with SmallRig Ballhead
Bench Light : SmallRig RC 120D
Bench Light Diffusor : SmallRig Lantern Softbox
Bench C-Stands (light and overhead camera) : Neewer Pro SS Heavy Duty
Streaming Light : SmallRig RC 120B
Streaming Diffusor : SmallRig Parabolic Softbox
Streaming Light Mount : SmallRig 148CM Wall Mount Boom with Triangle Base
Various Other Lights : Neewer LED Panels with Neewer Softboxes
Video Software :
Davinci Resolve 19
Phantom LUTs
Paul Leeming LUTs
Adobe Illustrator 28
Adobe Photoshop 25
Ecamm Live (streaming software)
When people question why some techs add a margin on parts, just sit them down trying to find all the parts themselves on mouser and see how long it takes them navigating it all their first time round.
Lyle, no one could ever consider your videos boring. For those building or repairing amps, they have to order parts. What better than video/s showing them how to track down and compare prices ? 👍👍👍
Not boring. Never too long. Always appreciated. Thanks 🤙
Endless hours comparing specs and datasheets.. backorders, pricing, availability- the not-so- glamorous side of repairs.
Great Video Lyle! although the wima are great, I still prefer the Panasonic ECQ-E6 series because I usually solder and revoice from the top of the pcb's... but everyone needs to get onto radial electrolytics. the difference in cost alone in Australia for them are $1.50 AUD vs $25 AUD
Again, a huge “thank you”. I personally love these sort of conversations. You’re teaching us about sourcing parts, choosing the best option as well as navigating the websites. Much gratitude here.
I screwed up and bought a SMD gullwing opto-isolator, so double check those prefixes and suffixes as they pertain to package style. An SMD 8 pin gullwing won't plug into that 8 pin DIP socket in a million years. There was a lovely picture of an 8 pin DIP chip. Oh well, that was 100% MY FAULT for not double checking the package style.
I've had good experience with the WIma's and of course the Nichicons. Wima's work nicely for replacements in Marshalls. Thanks for the switch advice.
I recently had my amp tech remove decades of junk it had acquired from techs using all they could get their hands on; and put in those Blue SoZo tone and coupling caps. Also had him bias a pair of new Tung-Sol 5881 power tubes. I put a 5R4GY in it and the rascal sounds amazing. Before all that, son of a gum was tonefully DEAD. So PARTS are impartant! 🙂
This is another great video, Lyle! I'm sure many are going to appreciate it.
I was on the phone with the folks at CE/Tubes and More the other day to discuss an order and, now that they carry the Vishay MKT1813 caps and PR02 resistors, I recommended they look into carrying those Nichicon 450v to 500v caps you show. Those things are great, and I suspect a lot more serious builders will be using them in the future.
When ordering electrolytic caps for Fender amps, have you ever ordered the "kits" from Antique Electronics Supply? For the 5 amps of mine that I have done recap jobs on, I have purchased the kits. You can select between MOD, basic and premium. For some reason they don't include the 4.7uF cap for the tremolo cathode bypass, instead they include an additional 25uF. The bias caps are not included.
I bought some 9-pin sockets and Mullard tubes from CE. The tubes wouldn’t fit into the sockets as the metal ring/holder was too tight for them. Contacted CE and was told “Sorry but our Mullard tubes won’t fit right into those sockets.” I told them “Ok, what can you do to fix this? It wasn’t advertised on the site that they don’t work together.” I was basically told “Sorry.. they don’t work.” So now CE has lost a customer.
Alexander Dumble popularized the use of the Orange Drops…The ODs we’re originally used in power supplies and not signal paths….
This is true. I have changed F&T 50/50 caps that I installed 8 to 10 years ago. Supposedly, they were the best for the time. I don't have enough time on the ARS ones yet to know. I would love to know of other options that still retain the original look and vibe and function.
They call that interference distance between parts and wires a difference of inverse squares or something like that. As you get closer by X distance the dB of signal interference squares and then distance X closer again and it squares itself again. I am 100% sure I got the terminology 100% wrong but the concept is 97% correct. Some types of ionizing radiation work the same way.
That's some great knowledge, thanks for sharing, Lyle!
Both of your parts videos are excellent. I am an audio hobbyist and when I build new or repair old audio gear, I methodically go through the parts that work best for the application and I ignore the "audiophlakes" nonsense of "this part is best because..." crapola.
I really enjoyed the components series. Is there a list of must have on hand capacitor and resistor values you could share.
With so many resistors and capacitors types and wattage-voltage ratings it can be mind boggling searching Mouser.
Thank you,
Roger
Dang, another great vid by Lyle 👍 . . . life will be a lot easier now scrolling thru the Mouser site as I do most of my electronic purchases thru them . . . hope you get better from your poison oak/sumac issues . . . I have a lot of poison ivy back here around the rocks and stone walls . . . some of these leaves get quite "humongous" . . . tough to keep it under control . . .
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with this stuff, it is both interesting and helpful to those of us who aspire to do good work but lack your years of experience!
Dude, this video was so good. Maybe your best ever. Call me crazy.
The smooth calming sounds of Lyle.....helps me sleep. Peace of mind knowing that...Lyle knows WTF hes doing . Yes, there is a guy out there making sure our amps are 100%. We arent alone in the universe. The universe has meaning !!!
Man you soo need to do a Twitch stream of your next Mouser or Digikey order Lyle! Its great fun!
These videos are really helpful for an amateur, like me. Good to know what the quality components are, and where to find them.
Could you please tell me the series of the radial nichicon electrolytic cap for power supply filtering that you suggested as an alternative to the fandt 50-50.i watched hoping for suggestions for for filter cap.12000 hr sounds good.this is rated for ripple found in supply? thanks
I literally just showed you how to find such things.
Great follow up video to the first one! Not boring at all.
Hi Lyle, I can only speak for myself, but I have never found any of your videos boring, I don't watch TV so I watch things that interest me in what little spare time I have. It is nice to see a pro use the same techniques I do. I am in the process of getting a business licence, then I will have a tax # to open wholesale accounts. that will help a lot. I received the videos you have sent me, at this point I am not sure where I stand, or if I have been banned. Believe it or not, I do like your no BS approach. lord knows there is a lot of BS on the Internet.
Banned? Not by me.
this is incredibly helpfull!
On those orange drops, if they must be employed axially (we've all been there), if you bend the leads from below the half-loop rather than bending the leads out all the way to the base of the cap, you will have at least *some* stress relief on the body of the cap. That little half-loop should be more than enough relief to prevent cracking where the leads enter the body. This is my theory, at least.
Yeah, I was more commenting on what I see people do than how I would do it if I had to use them in a Fender.
It's great thanks Lyle.
7:20 the inverse square rule.
Go all the way down the rabbit hole!
Nope, Not board.....
totally helpful
Great part 2! Thanks for the money saving tips, and the axial vs radial design discussion. Much appreciated!
Awesome Video Lyle! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm an electrical engineer and loved this!
👍👍👍
Frankly, I thought this would be a video of stuff I already know and do…but as usual you dropped some tidbits that hadn’t occurred to me! Thanks again!
Lyle, you are an excellent educator - in depth look and making/ taking notes. Thank you for taking the time giving out the pearls!!
Thank you! It is definitely useful as a reference for existing and future projects. These are the details nobody really talks about and make all the difference.
I have learned a lot of good information from this channel. Keep up the awesome content. Since the first parts video posted, I’ve done nothing but look at caps and resistors online. I’m considering replacing some caps in my 65 deluxe reverb (MojoTone) build from a couple years ago. I believe it was the version one kit that came with the MojoTone branded filter caps and orange drops/Sprague for the rest. Would there be any benefit to replacing some of those orange drops and MojoTone caps? The amp sounds great, but I think it can sound better.
I can’t say as I haven’t heard your amp. As a general rule though, value changes matter much more than material changes, and lead dress/grounding is crucial. And it’s possible you just aren’t in love with that speaker. Or your room doesn’t sound great.
So while I would not choose to build a Deluxe with Orange Drops I would not be rushing to change them out.
Thank you. I appreciate your input. I am using an Eminence EM12 Legend in the combo. It is a rather odd choice for that amp, but it has a lot of headroom.
Try some other speakers. You can connect pretty much any 4ohm, 8ohm, or 16ohm cab safely for testing. You might find you absolutely love that EV - but you might find a new favorite.
Do yourself a big favour and try the Eminence GA-SC64 speaker. My search for a speaker in my Deluxe reverb clone has now ended, yours may too.
Mahalo Lyle!
Long and boring is why I’m still here. Aloha Lyle
Learning what to order is a massive step in the correct direction. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for your comparisons and good common sense shopping
You sir, have the most fascinating and interesting boring videos on YT 🫡