Great video! It's very well put together, I'd love to see more. I have one small, nit-picky correction; Fixer isn't what stops the development process. A stop bath does that, but a stop bath isn't necessary. Fixer gets rid of the unexposed silver halides.
It is better to buy an enlarger with a color head. This enables color correction without steps. Dichroic filters won' t fade. Those Ciba filters are at least 30 years old, and gel filters will fade when exposed to light.
Subscribed! Very cool And love your apartment! I remember when this trend started and we accidentally walked into someone's flat in Neukölln thinking that it was an avantgarde showroom/boutique 😀 I am airbnb hunting for a flat like this whenever we visit Berlin since that time...
You don't have to throw away your chemicals after every print. I prepare 500ml of my developer and blix, and reuse it a lot. Up to 20 times (24x30cm paper).
@@thelivingmanpart2 off course, same for C-41 home processing. Keep in mind in this video he talks about RA-4, so color print. C-41 is film dev and you need to be more careful with reusing the developer or you'll screw up your film (just follow manufacturer's instruction on how to extend dev time after 4 rolls, and so on). For home processing RA-4 in drums you can use a 1 liter solution, and use it until you see changes in development times or drastic color shifts. You can screw up wet prints, it's not a big problem. Just mix new chemicals and start over.
@@stratocactus in my experience C-41 has a decent shelf life. i've used cinestills c-41 kit, and if you're smart/patient you'll save a lot of money developing your color negatives at home. i was mainly wondering about the RA-4 developer used for color print paper. Everyone in all the color print videos seems to mention that they toss away the used RA-4 developer after every print they make, so i just assumed you couldn't reuse it. I've only done B&W printing at home, but plan on doing some color printing at the end of the month (:
@@thelivingmanpart2 yeah generally speaking chemicals have good shelf life, but it requires really good lab practice, without any contamination. Since they sell C-41 kits for general public, they expect a bit of contamination between baths and I think that's why they recommend to either toss it (1 shot dev) or use it for 8 rolls (Cinestill 1 liter kits). Personally, I'd rather not mess with my negatives dev cause you can't redo them. So I'd rather toss my dev even if I could use it for a few more rolls. For RA-4 it doesn't matter to me if the chemicals are toast. I can reprint as many times as I want. So I reuse my solutions extensively. Checl Aleksandr NordicLab channel, he's printing a lot of RA-4 with a scientific approach.
That is the comment I was looking for. I thought why does he trow it away? How ever I was wondering If it would be better the use a different drum for the bleachfix? because getting leftover bleachfix in the developer also messes is up. But I guess thats what a good water rins after the bleachfix is for..?
Teriffic video, I love your style man! But, why does the color image from a color negative, look so ... black and white? This isn't a true color c-type printing? Cheers!
Hmm I don't understand it, why are you using cibachrome filters for RA-4 prints? And why not an enlarger with colorhead? I mean cibachrome color filters is only intended for cibachrome prints, so from slide film to positive print, or see I it wrong?
System for color correction in C-type and Cibachrome is the same. Only difference is that when you add some color, such as magenta in C-type, the picture will be less magenta = more green. In Cibachrome, which was a positive to positive system, adding magenta would turn the picture more magenta = less green. The filters and color heads are not process specific, and Ciba filters will work just fine with RA-4, as did standard color heads work for Cibachrome. Color heads are easier to use, and with it, you can control the color without any steps, as you would with separate filters. Gel filters do fade in use, which is not true for dichroic filters used in enlarger color heads.
You are probably right. The drum uses much less liquid than a tray thou. Also with color you can not use the red light you can use with B/W which means you are in the pitch black… so for me this works better for color
@@valentincheli1819 Bleach-fix will work "forever", and it would be very wasteful to use it one-shot. It is also possible to use RA-4 developer many times, by pouring the used part back in the bottle. Even Kodak, which is always very conservative in their recommendations concerning the reuse and shelf life of chemistry, says in their documentation this is possible. Just dump the developer when you see it turning black, or when there will be noticeable color shifts in pictures. In RA-4, the actual problem is not exhausted, but too active developer, which needs to be hindered by adding starter in newly mixed developer. Of course, this is not a suggestion to press the chemistry more than it is capable of performing.
You could use IR glasses to see in the dark, also cheap kid toys should do the trick!
This is exactly the type of video I hope to find every time I open up RUclips. Awesome job
Thank you so much :)
Great video! It's very well put together, I'd love to see more.
I have one small, nit-picky correction; Fixer isn't what stops the development process. A stop bath does that, but a stop bath isn't necessary. Fixer gets rid of the unexposed silver halides.
It is better to buy an enlarger with a color head. This enables color correction without steps. Dichroic filters won' t fade. Those Ciba filters are at least 30 years old, and gel filters will fade when exposed to light.
Subscribed! Very cool
And love your apartment! I remember when this trend started and we accidentally walked into someone's flat in Neukölln thinking that it was an avantgarde showroom/boutique 😀 I am airbnb hunting for a flat like this whenever we visit Berlin since that time...
hehe.. thanks :) it is our office thou. but I guess we tried to make it as comfy as a apartment. have a nice Sunday!
@@valentincheli1819 ah, OK, it seemed very minimalist 😅 hope your channel picks up - great music, great content and very good photos…
@@ahasver07 thank you so much! good to get some love at the very beginning :) appreciate it
Great video my friend, made it easy to understand. Subscribed 👍🏻
Thank you so much:)
What a geek. I love it. Subscribed, Twiddling my thumb by the bell until your next video 🍿
It'll be nice knowing I was your 36th subscriber when this becomes a very popular channel. Cheers from Greece!✌😎
Thanks a lot Christos:) appreciate it!
Looking forward to the color grading part
You don't have to throw away your chemicals after every print. I prepare 500ml of my developer and blix, and reuse it a lot. Up to 20 times (24x30cm paper).
you can reuse color film developer??
@@thelivingmanpart2 off course, same for C-41 home processing.
Keep in mind in this video he talks about RA-4, so color print. C-41 is film dev and you need to be more careful with reusing the developer or you'll screw up your film (just follow manufacturer's instruction on how to extend dev time after 4 rolls, and so on).
For home processing RA-4 in drums you can use a 1 liter solution, and use it until you see changes in development times or drastic color shifts. You can screw up wet prints, it's not a big problem. Just mix new chemicals and start over.
@@stratocactus in my experience C-41 has a decent shelf life. i've used cinestills c-41 kit, and if you're smart/patient you'll save a lot of money developing your color negatives at home.
i was mainly wondering about the RA-4 developer used for color print paper. Everyone in all the color print videos seems to mention that they toss away the used RA-4 developer after every print they make, so i just assumed you couldn't reuse it. I've only done B&W printing at home, but plan on doing some color printing at the end of the month (:
@@thelivingmanpart2 yeah generally speaking chemicals have good shelf life, but it requires really good lab practice, without any contamination. Since they sell C-41 kits for general public, they expect a bit of contamination between baths and I think that's why they recommend to either toss it (1 shot dev) or use it for 8 rolls (Cinestill 1 liter kits).
Personally, I'd rather not mess with my negatives dev cause you can't redo them. So I'd rather toss my dev even if I could use it for a few more rolls.
For RA-4 it doesn't matter to me if the chemicals are toast. I can reprint as many times as I want. So I reuse my solutions extensively.
Checl Aleksandr NordicLab channel, he's printing a lot of RA-4 with a scientific approach.
That is the comment I was looking for. I thought why does he trow it away?
How ever I was wondering If it would be better the use a different drum for the bleachfix? because getting leftover bleachfix in the developer also messes is up. But I guess thats what a good water rins after the bleachfix is for..?
Very cool video on color printing! Is the color grading video still in the works?? I would love to see that.
Enjoy this a lot. You really are the new Bob Ross ;)
ahahaha.. love it
I’m Japanese！
I like your video！
I look forward to posting the next video‼︎
Where did you buy your chemicals? I thought the chemicals had to be at a constant temperature.
Teriffic video, I love your style man! But, why does the color image from a color negative, look so ... black and white? This isn't a true color c-type printing? Cheers!
when is the color grading video coming?
need more!
Question, : photographic paper you enlarge on , is it the same type of paper that's for black and white enlarging ?
thank you
Nice video bro! keep going !
Subscribed ! Great Content !
Thank you so much
Thank God for digital photography
😂
Thanks so mucho for this content 😊✨ I ve had some problems to find the paper. What do you use or where i can find it?
Hmm I don't understand it, why are you using cibachrome filters for RA-4 prints? And why not an enlarger with colorhead?
I mean cibachrome color filters is only intended for cibachrome prints, so from slide film to positive print, or see I it wrong?
System for color correction in C-type and Cibachrome is the same. Only difference is that when you add some color, such as magenta in C-type, the picture will be less magenta = more green. In Cibachrome, which was a positive to positive system, adding magenta would turn the picture more magenta = less green. The filters and color heads are not process specific, and Ciba filters will work just fine with RA-4, as did standard color heads work for Cibachrome. Color heads are easier to use, and with it, you can control the color without any steps, as you would with separate filters. Gel filters do fade in use, which is not true for dichroic filters used in enlarger color heads.
The drum seems wasteful of chemicals compared to trays where you can reuse the chemicals for several prints. Or is this not the way color works?
You are probably right. The drum uses much less liquid than a tray thou. Also with color you can not use the red light you can use with B/W which means you are in the pitch black… so for me this works better for color
@@valentincheli1819 Bleach-fix will work "forever", and it would be very wasteful to use it one-shot. It is also possible to use RA-4 developer many times, by pouring the used part back in the bottle. Even Kodak, which is always very conservative in their recommendations concerning the reuse and shelf life of chemistry, says in their documentation this is possible. Just dump the developer when you see it turning black, or when there will be noticeable color shifts in pictures. In RA-4, the actual problem is not exhausted, but too active developer, which needs to be hindered by adding starter in newly mixed developer.
Of course, this is not a suggestion to press the chemistry more than it is capable of performing.
The street that you are located on looks terrible.
This is Ylli