Hi, I bought the suggested screen mod kit and it went flawless with the help of your video. I'm running one of those 200 in 1 game cartridges' from amazon and it randomly messes up on boot. I don't think I ever had this problem before the screen replacement. I did the voltage jumper mod you showed on the board too, so you know. I feel really good on the solder job. I'm wondering since I don't have a factory cartridge to test it with, could it just be the generic flash cartridge causing the boot issue? When it does occur I can turn it off then back on and everything is fine. Only happens on boot. Thanks in advance for any help you can lend.
do you still get the issue with fresh batteries? on start up, the screen might need a little extra power. the caps have to charge. same with your cartridge. if your using rechargeable batteries, they generally produce slightly less voltage. that's the only thing I can think of. I hope this helps.
@@ARCTICLABSERVICES I have a wall plug and it does the same thing. Just ran out and bought a real genisis game (Ms. Pac-Man) it also has the same problem. Also on this original game the up and down controls are sparatic. So frustrating
@@dad5429 very interesting. Its possible the caps on the nomad are starting to fail. That is not an easy job. Its very easy to damage the board getting the old ones off.
@@dad5429 no problem. Sorry I couldn't help. I would email the vendor and see if they have had issues with a certain batch or something. Thanks for your comments.
There could be a couple of reasons. Are you using flux? Flux lowers the melting point of solder to help it flow and stick to metal. Are you using the right kind of solder? There are many types. But for basic electronics, there is leaded and lead free solder. Leaded solder has a lower melting point than lead free solder. You have to have a pretty hot soldering iron to solder with lead free solder. I hope I helped.
3:16 that's 10v supply and has fried a screen on me after doing the 5v mod. Maybe using the point just above TP206 and below TP209 for 5v is safer going forward. Otherwise, great tutorial and nothing left out, even mentioning the wire guides on the 3d printed bracket. Nice
![GAMEBOY DMG-01 FUNNYPLAYING RETRO PIXEL IPS INSTALL [MOD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PyOEaLWU4Us/mqdefault.jpg)
![GAMEBOY DMG-01 FUNNYPLAYING RETRO PIXEL IPS INSTALL [MOD]](/img/tr.png)
![SEGA NOMAD DISASSEMBLY [WARANTY VOID IF REMOVED]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xWCXtKB_VXs/mqdefault.jpg)
![CONSOLE5'S ATARI 2600 CAP KIT INSTALL PART 1 [REPAIR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/joxWCVvtUHg/mqdefault.jpg)
![ATARI 7800 UAV INSTALL WITH A 3D PRINTED BRACKET [MOD]](/img/1.gif)
Just come across your video thank you buddy help me find a cheap way to upgrade the old lcd on my orignal nomad
You're welcome. Im glad it helped. Thanks for the sub and comment.
@@ARCTICLABSERVICES Your most welcome 🙂
Hi, I bought the suggested screen mod kit and it went flawless with the help of your video. I'm running one of those 200 in 1 game cartridges' from amazon and it randomly messes up on boot. I don't think I ever had this problem before the screen replacement. I did the voltage jumper mod you showed on the board too, so you know. I feel really good on the solder job. I'm wondering since I don't have a factory cartridge to test it with, could it just be the generic flash cartridge causing the boot issue? When it does occur I can turn it off then back on and everything is fine. Only happens on boot. Thanks in advance for any help you can lend.
do you still get the issue with fresh batteries? on start up, the screen might need a little extra power. the caps have to charge. same with your cartridge. if your using rechargeable batteries, they generally produce slightly less voltage. that's the only thing I can think of. I hope this helps.
@@ARCTICLABSERVICES I have a wall plug and it does the same thing. Just ran out and bought a real genisis game (Ms. Pac-Man) it also has the same problem. Also on this original game the up and down controls are sparatic. So frustrating
@@dad5429 very interesting. Its possible the caps on the nomad are starting to fail. That is not an easy job. Its very easy to damage the board getting the old ones off.
@@ARCTICLABSERVICES has all new caps. Everything worked great before installing the LCD upgrade. At a loss but thanks for chiming in.
@@dad5429 no problem. Sorry I couldn't help. I would email the vendor and see if they have had issues with a certain batch or something. Thanks for your comments.
How did you get solder to stick to wires cause I cannot do that
There could be a couple of reasons. Are you using flux? Flux lowers the melting point of solder to help it flow and stick to metal. Are you using the right kind of solder? There are many types. But for basic electronics, there is leaded and lead free solder. Leaded solder has a lower melting point than lead free solder. You have to have a pretty hot soldering iron to solder with lead free solder. I hope I helped.
@@ARCTICLABSERVICES flux also cleans the surface oxidation.
I want to fix my nomad, but there are not more screens available at tha website. man do you know another website with the same cheap screen?
I'm not home right now, but I'll take a look and let you know.
3:16 that's 10v supply and has fried a screen on me after doing the 5v mod. Maybe using the point just above TP206 and below TP209 for 5v is safer going forward.
Otherwise, great tutorial and nothing left out, even mentioning the wire guides on the 3d printed bracket.
Nice
Read this part too late, board is fried. Rookie mistake on my part, should have tested all circuits before connecting the board.