Lovin' this truck build Jeff !! When ever there's a problem you find an answer. Your brain must be ticking over 24 hrs a day !! Talking in your sleep even !!
Invest in a replaceable carbide insert parting tool. The inexpensive ones on eBay work fine. I used to have a couple of batch production jobs in 304 SS, HUGE improvement over hss parting, plus you can use it for turning and grooving. Keep up the great work, be safe!
Great vid. Thanks Jeff. As previously mentioned you'll need to add the collapsible bit to the column... for my clubman it was DD solid top and bottom, with the hollow shaft in the middle secured with M6 grub screws. My engineer wanted 150mm crush travel, from memory
I’ve got ten cars.. two are Japan built mid 90’s Hilux s ..one I’ve got stripped down for use as one of my runabouts.. I can’t believe how much in common with the Coaster when naked!!.. that’s the success of Toyota though.. just shrink or enlarge the design 👌💪
Hey Jeff, Like your videos very much. For the double DD to be collapsible, there should be an outer sleeve for the shaft that you installed to slide in.. (the outer sleeve is fixed at one end joint and the inner shaft is fixed at the other end joint.)
Man walks into a bar with a steering wheel sticking out of his trousers 😮 "Jesus mate" says his pal "isn't that annoying?" "Yeah" he says "it's driving me nuts"... I'll get my own coat... 😂
I'm in the midst of an axle swap on my old acco firetruck at the moment and about to get a drag link made/shortened to suit. Hadn't thought to mock one up with the parts I have for testing and moving about, so thanks for the lightbulb. 👍
I never had a problem disconnecting tapered shaft ball joints, in my 10 year caerer as a mechanic. I always found a good hard swing with my 1.5 pound hammer, would do the job.
Hi Jeff! Its all coming together now and you can see why it was best for you to use an existing "Donor Vehicle" . Sometimes better not to reinvent the wheel. Bill Mc
G’day Jeff, You probably know that the modified car world has been using under dash boosters for decades. As to your steering linkages, the hot rod community has been using this method for decades as well. Some of your RUclips commenters, should research before posting silly comments. I personally think that you are doing an amazing job and you really do think outside the box. I can tell that this is not your first rodeo haha!! Your experience shines through. Keen to see how you tackle the next stage of the build Cheers Chris
Hey Jeff - have you considered the effect of the phasing of the universal joints in the steering column? Consider that one UJ at an angle would give you torque fluctuations as you turn the steering wheel, and having two UJs - if correctly phased - will cancel each other out to give smoother steering. You appear to have three -or possibly even four joints if you count the joint half way up the column! This might not manifest itself as too much of a problem on your build, but fewer joints - an even number, correctly phased and at similar angles- will always be safer and smoother.
Great stuff, good effort, like it, maybe with all your expertise in steering and direction, you should forward to the Wallabies were they should head after the hiding they got on the rugby field here in NZ and maybe put the foot on the accelerator
Mrs. Jeff. First, as I always mention, this comment is said with the utmost respect for you and your husband, and with the most gentlemanly attitude. Mrs. Jeff, you are a magnficent woman. You are Intelligent, sprightly and your smile is breathtaking. When I see a beautiful woman, I think it is correct to say it, as long as I remain polite and respectful. I hope this comment meets all those criteria. Again, you are a gorgeous woman. Oh and Jeff, this build is very interesting as it is quite different from what you habitually do. And the fact that you mix it up with the Alfarrari and the Merc keeps me interested. As always, good job.
I agree with your RivNut analysis except for fiberglass or alloy panels. There RivNuts are often a good answer. In steel, a couple of tack welds on an ordinary nut are a better answer.
If you wanted to make the steering shaft support cleaner, you could use a normal bushing/bearing instead of the two rod ends. But since you have the space, this works and is probably easier during assembly.
The chance of finding a plug and play set of pedals with booster etc that fits the ford cabin and connects to the coaster engine are zero. So if U have to make adjustments why not do that on the set U already have....that's wishfull thinking and logica🧑🏻🎓 Captive nuts.....it's also my advise to who ever is gonna build anything.....if U have the chance to capture the nuts than do it. If you ever have to be on those bolds again you'll be happy you captured them👍
Use the two hammer trick to remove tie-rods - most receiving ends for tie rods have flats on them for that purpose - ever wonder why they are there? Not failed me yet.... Much easier than the tire rod tool which I have but never use.
Instead of a custom steering rod could you use say landcruiser tie rod ends and the factory sleeve to join them, maybe off a 100 series with independent front suspension or a hiace or Hilux etc
Jeff; as much colonial question as suggestion- a bracket with a hole in it, much like the one you made, and a machined bushing which your lathe would have been handy for, all then bolted up securely and it's angle set to fix and determine where the shaft would stay. I hope I explained that well! But wouldn't that have satisfied both the terms of your MOT and actually done the deed? Just asking- you have to like the solution to begin with, I know, but I've gotten that past state law and required inspection over here. On a more suggestion line; Anthony Brawler of "Hard Dore Fab" is doing a Chevy C10 from the late '60s- the back of that cab has some very similar shapes as the Ford; Anthony is 6'4"- say 1.9 meters tall and if he was skinny (he isn't!) he should weigh 240+, a full hundred kilos, and the Chevy was to small for him to drive comfortably, so he cut the cab back off and "supercabbed" it. Until you look at it, btw, he isn't a finished bodyman, it would be hard illuminate further. My suggestion is obvious- could this work for you? The Ford's read shapes are very similar. Anyway, soldier on, I'm quite sure some other task needing twice done will turn up when least expected! Mrs. J, always good to see you well and a strong support for Jeff's "other girlfriends"!
Ao many brackets makes it sound like Project Binky except regular episodes haha. You mentioned in an earlier episode that you are turboing the engine, will you still have room there with all the pedals and column? The stock turbo for the land cruiser sits about where you ran the column.
Does putting in the 2 eyelets (rod ends) on either side of the flexi joint on the steering rod negate the safety purpose of the flexi/universal joint in that area? Would something like a bearing carrier in the first position be better? It wouldnt have the sideways movement that the eyelet/rod end has. Your Engineer would be the person to confirm that 👍.
Great stuff as always. With the job you’ve done on that drag link, would anyone notice if you used it?!? I must ask though, did you have to copy my video title…. Cheers.
Hi Jeff, always enjoy your videos. I was just wondering wasn't it possible to remove the U/J from the bottom of the steering column and replace it with the new one therefore removing the problem of running two U/J's side by side and the need for the rod ends?
All of the rules regarding engineering, yet in the uk, traffic deaths are at half the rate, and don't require the sane scrutiny for modification, in fact, the u.s. is at barley double, yet the risk based on population density is 14x worse, and we have nearly no laws on modifications.... can anyone explain that?
Don’t know why you bother answering stupid questions from dumb people who have probably never picked up a spanner in their life especially when you’ve already explained why you things the way you do you know the Australian rulers are regs it’s your project do it how ever you want great channel keep doing what you’re doing ignore the idiots, sorry for the long message they just wind me up
Ayton senna died due to the steering shaft being altered it was supposed to be a test job to judge the length then a new one would be made in one piece.
Seen a video of a Korean car manufacturer who tested, 1 of every 10 cars, all the life treatening components of their road cars under extreme circumstances. Wish they've done it on Ayrton's car to😞
That was fun and educational again this week because it shows how a steering system and pedals work. 🙂👍🏻
what i love is , nothing scares you !!!
I’ve missed a bit, but great progress Jeff! Getting some really important stuff checked off here 👌✅👏
Thanks mate
So close to 200k subs Jeff, you and Mrs Jeff are killing it. Loving this build so much
One for the algorithm 👍 Love your work Jeff
Very nice steering solution. Well done!
Lovin' this truck build Jeff !! When ever there's a problem you find an answer. Your brain must be ticking over 24 hrs a day !! Talking in your sleep even !!
You had me at DD's... I'm here to learn. I didn't know that.
Totally agree with you on captive nuts.
Invest in a replaceable carbide insert parting tool. The inexpensive ones on eBay work fine. I used to have a couple of batch production jobs in 304 SS, HUGE improvement over hss parting, plus you can use it for turning and grooving. Keep up the great work, be safe!
Great vid. Thanks Jeff. As previously mentioned you'll need to add the collapsible bit to the column... for my clubman it was DD solid top and bottom, with the hollow shaft in the middle secured with M6 grub screws. My engineer wanted 150mm crush travel, from memory
The Toyota column in the cab is already collapsable, we will see if he is happy with that.
Amazing progress
Awesome fabricating Jeff and Mrs Jeff. Thanks again for sharing take care be safe.
It's amazing the rules you have build off of, it's so much easier in California, we can build just about anything that can roll down the road.
Great episode Jeff
This build is absolutely living up to what I imagined when you announced it. Glad you're enjoying the build.
I’ve got ten cars.. two are Japan built mid 90’s Hilux s ..one I’ve got stripped down for use as one of my runabouts.. I can’t believe how much in common with the Coaster when naked!!.. that’s the success of Toyota though.. just shrink or enlarge the design 👌💪
You guys are awesome! great builds well put together show. thanks :)
Hey Jeff,
Like your videos very much.
For the double DD to be collapsible, there should be an outer sleeve for the shaft that you installed to slide in.. (the outer sleeve is fixed at one end joint and the inner shaft is fixed at the other end joint.)
Man walks into a bar with a steering wheel sticking out of his trousers 😮
"Jesus mate" says his pal "isn't that annoying?"
"Yeah" he says "it's driving me nuts"...
I'll get my own coat... 😂
I love seeing the Franken'Yota hauler coming together. Can't wait to see the trailer bed design.
Great progress 👍
The build is coming along great Jeff and I agree with you, Captive nuts are the way to go and spend money when you don’t have to cheers mate
Well done Jeff! Looks nice! Greetings from South Africa! ❤😊
Thank you Jeff. I love these videos. I'm watching in the UK and they make my Sunday mornings even more delightful.
All hail the algorithm, and enjoying the fruits of your labour.
The Sunday’s routine, thanks for the videos MrJeff !greetings from 🇫🇷
Love watching for years now, I don't comment as its your project and you have the freedom to do what you want
Hi Jeff, I like how you are making this build your own and it's exactly what you will be happy with for many years.
Thanks 👍💪✌
Thanks mate, good video, I prefer your editing style over other similar channels
Protect the rubber gaiter on the rod end with a strip of wet rag and heat up the area where the taper goes with a gas blow lamp and it will fall out.
I'm in the midst of an axle swap on my old acco firetruck at the moment and about to get a drag link made/shortened to suit. Hadn't thought to mock one up with the parts I have for testing and moving about, so thanks for the lightbulb. 👍
Great work, encourage you to wear safety glasses during fab work.
Another Great Job Jeff. 👍😎👍
Use steel rivnuts . A single tack with the tig. Then nevaseize in the thread. No problem ever. 😉
That is just more messing around, hence why captive nuts are my go to.
This is something I have had as an idea to do. Cut a cab from the coaster and discarding the rear. Then placing a roll back bed on the chassis.
I never had a problem disconnecting tapered shaft ball joints, in my 10 year caerer as a mechanic. I always found a good hard swing with my 1.5 pound hammer, would do the job.
I tried many times with the hammer but these big guys didn't want to budge.
Great video
Hi Jeff! Its all coming together now and you can see why it was best for you to use an existing "Donor Vehicle" . Sometimes better not to reinvent the wheel. Bill Mc
Coming along nicely, great work Jeff👍
Great stuff
G’day Jeff,
You probably know that the modified car world has been using under dash boosters for decades.
As to your steering linkages, the hot rod community has been using this method for decades as well.
Some of your RUclips commenters, should research before posting silly comments.
I personally think that you are doing an amazing job and you really do think outside the box. I can tell that this is not your first rodeo haha!! Your experience shines through.
Keen to see how you tackle the next stage of the build
Cheers Chris
I Like your builds 👍
Wow. I got 1 half of a seat mount done this weekend!
I got 5 new subscribers though so I guess I'm committed now. Can't let them down!
Hey Jeff - have you considered the effect of the phasing of the universal joints in the steering column? Consider that one UJ at an angle would give you torque fluctuations as you turn the steering wheel, and having two UJs - if correctly phased - will cancel each other out to give smoother steering. You appear to have three -or possibly even four joints if you count the joint half way up the column! This might not manifest itself as too much of a problem on your build, but fewer joints - an even number, correctly phased and at similar angles- will always be safer and smoother.
Yes
You are doing excellent work...
All hail the algorithm ☺
Great stuff, good effort, like it, maybe with all your expertise in steering and direction, you should forward to the Wallabies were they should head after the hiding they got on the rugby field here in NZ and maybe put the foot on the accelerator
LCS - Patreon for the win …
Mrs. Jeff. First, as I always mention, this comment is said with the utmost respect for you and your husband, and with the most gentlemanly attitude. Mrs. Jeff, you are a magnficent woman. You are Intelligent, sprightly and your smile is breathtaking. When I see a beautiful woman, I think it is correct to say it, as long as I remain polite and respectful. I hope this comment meets all those criteria. Again, you are a gorgeous woman. Oh and Jeff, this build is very interesting as it is quite different from what you habitually do. And the fact that you mix it up with the Alfarrari and the Merc keeps me interested. As always, good job.
I agree with your RivNut analysis except for fiberglass or alloy panels. There RivNuts are often a good answer. In steel, a couple of tack welds on an ordinary nut are a better answer.
Tie rod or any tapered joint. A good smack with ahammer on the side of the taper n they're off. Never used a breaker
Hey up nice work Jeff your project is progressing well, looking forward to seeing alfa on the road obviously not as much as you are though
If you wanted to make the steering shaft support cleaner, you could use a normal bushing/bearing instead of the two rod ends. But since you have the space, this works and is probably easier during assembly.
The chance of finding a plug and play set of pedals with booster etc that fits the ford cabin and connects to the coaster engine are zero. So if U have to make adjustments why not do that on the set U already have....that's wishfull thinking and logica🧑🏻🎓
Captive nuts.....it's also my advise to who ever is gonna build anything.....if U have the chance to capture the nuts than do it. If you ever have to be on those bolds again you'll be happy you captured them👍
the bit i hate about welding captive nuts is how the nut shrinks with the heat.
Have to let it cool completely before taking the bolt out
Try using a high grade bolt in it with a dribble of high temp high copper content anti seize just for the weld in and you shouldn't have issues.
Wow I guess i'm up early today.😊
Once again injoyable video 😎👍😁 plus just about 200k subs $$$
Use the two hammer trick to remove tie-rods - most receiving ends for tie rods have flats on them for that purpose - ever wonder why they are there? Not failed me yet.... Much easier than the tire rod tool which I have but never use.
Just lookin Jeff, bit much for me to work out
❤️🔥HBBJ❤️🔥
👍💪
Instead of a custom steering rod could you use say landcruiser tie rod ends and the factory sleeve to join them, maybe off a 100 series with independent front suspension or a hiace or Hilux etc
👍
Jeff; as much colonial question as suggestion- a bracket with a hole in it, much like the one you made, and a machined bushing which your lathe would have been handy for, all then bolted up securely and it's angle set to fix and determine where the shaft would stay. I hope I explained that well! But wouldn't that have satisfied both the terms of your MOT and actually done the deed? Just asking- you have to like the solution to begin with, I know, but I've gotten that past state law and required inspection over here.
On a more suggestion line; Anthony Brawler of "Hard Dore Fab" is doing a Chevy C10 from the late '60s- the back of that cab has some very similar shapes as the Ford; Anthony is 6'4"- say 1.9 meters tall and if he was skinny (he isn't!) he should weigh 240+, a full hundred kilos, and the Chevy was to small for him to drive comfortably, so he cut the cab back off and "supercabbed" it. Until you look at it, btw, he isn't a finished bodyman, it would be hard illuminate further. My suggestion is obvious- could this work for you? The Ford's read shapes are very similar.
Anyway, soldier on, I'm quite sure some other task needing twice done will turn up when least expected! Mrs. J, always good to see you well and a strong support for Jeff's "other girlfriends"!
✌🏼
Ao many brackets makes it sound like Project Binky except regular episodes haha. You mentioned in an earlier episode that you are turboing the engine, will you still have room there with all the pedals and column? The stock turbo for the land cruiser sits about where you ran the column.
Plenty of room ;)
👍🚌💨
Could you use like two tie rods and a adjustable sleeve for the drag link
Does putting in the 2 eyelets (rod ends) on either side of the flexi joint on the steering rod negate the safety purpose of the flexi/universal joint in that area?
Would something like a bearing carrier in the first position be better? It wouldnt have the sideways movement that the eyelet/rod end has.
Your Engineer would be the person to confirm that 👍.
Great stuff as always. With the job you’ve done on that drag link, would anyone notice if you used it?!?
I must ask though, did you have to copy my video title….
Cheers.
Hi Jeff, always enjoy your videos. I was just wondering wasn't it possible to remove the U/J from the bottom of the steering column and replace it with the new one therefore removing the problem of running two U/J's side by side and the need for the rod ends?
It doesn't come off
Should we expect the Fun Facts to include Toyota products?
Possibly
I'll have to google captive nuts. At first , I thought you were talking about my relationship with my ex-wife!
Not a pleasant sensation when they are being crushed!😬
If it's your EX wife they should be free now.......use them😂
Use them wisely though...
LMAO 😂
😂
Jeff did you ever fix the damage to the Alfarrari roof?
👍🏻🍺👏
Feeding the algorithm. This is coming along quickly, and I only got 2 annoying RUclips adverts
Pillow Block?
That steering ratio looks a bit slow in the video. Does it actually feel ok in person?
Exactly the same as it always was in the Coaster ;)
Wouldnt be easier to mount a power steering rack ?
Absolutely not.
Is that black tube on the steering column not able to be the second rod end?
No
All of the rules regarding engineering, yet in the uk, traffic deaths are at half the rate, and don't require the sane scrutiny for modification, in fact, the u.s. is at barley double, yet the risk based on population density is 14x worse, and we have nearly no laws on modifications.... can anyone explain that?
Don’t know why you bother answering stupid questions from dumb people who have probably never picked up a spanner in their life especially when you’ve already explained why you things the way you do you know the Australian rulers are regs it’s your project do it how ever you want great channel keep doing what you’re doing ignore the idiots, sorry for the long message they just wind me up
Could you not replace the UJ on the end of the steering column so you only had 2?
It doesn't come off ;)
@@HomeBuiltByJeff 😂everything comes off!
But will you be able to heal and toe?
I am sure I will manage :D
Ayton senna died due to the steering shaft being altered it was supposed to be a test job to judge the length then a new one would be made in one piece.
I thought a suspension component broke off and hit him in the head(helmet on)?
@@BackyardMechCon shortened and welded steering shaft as far as I remember
Seen a video of a Korean car manufacturer who tested, 1 of every 10 cars, all the life treatening components of their road cars under extreme circumstances. Wish they've done it on Ayrton's car to😞