If you want to build this project yourself, check out the build-along series here! 👇 ruclips.net/p/PLJZTXsmiGZKfk3NW1gcpTRlIAnr1WvksQ Free Plans for this series can be downloaded here! mattestlea.com/product/shaker-table-plans/
10:38. You don't need to make symmetrical wall unique, you can keep them as two associated components, all you have to do is choose one of them, take transform tool and turn this wall inside out (just type -1 as transformation ratio).
11:40. Ok, about blue and sand faces. Blue indicates that this is the inner side of the plane, i.e. one that should always face inward. The sand color shows the outer sides of the planes. Any closed geometric volume must have only sandy planes. Conversely, if you place the camera inside the body, then you should only see the blue colored surface. This is necessary in order for the computer to correctly interpret geometric shapes as a solids. This is necessary for 3D printing, milling on CNC machines, as well as visualization in third-party applications. (sometimes on rendered images instead of blue planes you will just see holes in the surface). So, I recommend keeping a close eye on the surface of your item to be free of blue planes. If you see them, then just move the mouse arrow to the correctly oriented sand-colored plane, right-click and select Orient faces.
A free workaround to the solid tools is the right click>intersect with selection/model : select interlocking objects and select that tool : it will create lines along all intersecting planes, then clean up any leftovers.
10:15. The disappearing face is due to ctrl+pull to create the shoulder line. Hence inverted faces (that appear blue/grey instead of white). I've recently discovered this will cause an issue if wanting to 3D print from a sketchup file : these faces will not be recognised by the printing software, will see it as an "open" volume. Fiddly fix : select inverted faces, right click and pick "reverse faces" to flip them back around. But other than 3D printing, just hide reverse faces with textures!
Do you have a series of tutorials for the Pro version. I'm thinking of upgrading. I haven't really started on "Go" yet but it seems that I'd prefer Pro. Great instruction ! You're a born teacher.
Thanks for video Matt, but... you're wrong. You don't need paper drawing, because can change a quantity of tails and a distance between them in one single operation. Just make a component out a first tail, then copy it to the position where the last tail should be, then type /n command, where n is a number of steps. And if you don't happy with quantity, just re-type /n command, or change a size of one tail component, and all of them will change as well. (Sorry for my English, it's not my native language, I hope you'll understand me)
@@jura7598 I didn't say I'm the smartest in the world. I'm an architect and I use SketchUp in my work since 2003, so yes, I probably know it a little bit better than Matt. Of course, there are many ways to get the same end result. However, some of them are slow and ineffective compared to others. If you are satisfied with wasting your time on unnecessary operations - no problem, do as you think is right. As an experienced user and SketchUp teacher (Yes, I teach SU in Russian), I just suggest a faster and easier way to work. Matt is an excellent woodworker and I have a lot of respect for his skills. But believe me, in terms of knowledge of the SketchUp, he is still a beginner. I'm not trying to sound smarter than him or you, but aren't we here to learn something from each other?
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/w7Wf0h1Q8a4/mqdefault.jpg)
If you want to build this project yourself, check out the build-along series here! 👇
ruclips.net/p/PLJZTXsmiGZKfk3NW1gcpTRlIAnr1WvksQ
Free Plans for this series can be downloaded here!
mattestlea.com/product/shaker-table-plans/
10:38. You don't need to make symmetrical wall unique, you can keep them as two associated components, all you have to do is choose one of them, take transform tool and turn this wall inside out (just type -1 as transformation ratio).
Lots of good tips on what to do with sketchup and what NOT to do with woodworking.
11:40. Ok, about blue and sand faces. Blue indicates that this is the inner side of the plane, i.e. one that should always face inward. The sand color shows the outer sides of the planes. Any closed geometric volume must have only sandy planes. Conversely, if you place the camera inside the body, then you should only see the blue colored surface. This is necessary in order for the computer to correctly interpret geometric shapes as a solids. This is necessary for 3D printing, milling on CNC machines, as well as visualization in third-party applications. (sometimes on rendered images instead of blue planes you will just see holes in the surface). So, I recommend keeping a close eye on the surface of your item to be free of blue planes. If you see them, then just move the mouse arrow to the correctly oriented sand-colored plane, right-click and select Orient faces.
Really helpful this series! 👍 Thanks for taking the time.
I'm finding these really useful. Thanks for that.
A free workaround to the solid tools is the right click>intersect with selection/model : select interlocking objects and select that tool : it will create lines along all intersecting planes, then clean up any leftovers.
10:15. The disappearing face is due to ctrl+pull to create the shoulder line. Hence inverted faces (that appear blue/grey instead of white). I've recently discovered this will cause an issue if wanting to 3D print from a sketchup file : these faces will not be recognised by the printing software, will see it as an "open" volume. Fiddly fix : select inverted faces, right click and pick "reverse faces" to flip them back around. But other than 3D printing, just hide reverse faces with textures!
Brilliant Matt thanks
Do you have a series of tutorials for the Pro version. I'm thinking of upgrading. I haven't really started on "Go" yet but it seems that I'd prefer Pro. Great instruction ! You're a born teacher.
In Sketchup you should have been able to mirror the commponent that had the groove on the outside. That probably would save you some trouble.
Thanks for video Matt, but... you're wrong. You don't need paper drawing, because can change a quantity of tails and a distance between them in one single operation. Just make a component out a first tail, then copy it to the position where the last tail should be, then type /n command, where n is a number of steps. And if you don't happy with quantity, just re-type /n command, or change a size of one tail component, and all of them will change as well. (Sorry for my English, it's not my native language, I hope you'll understand me)
@@jura7598 I didn't say I'm the smartest in the world. I'm an architect and I use SketchUp in my work since 2003, so yes, I probably know it a little bit better than Matt. Of course, there are many ways to get the same end result. However, some of them are slow and ineffective compared to others. If you are satisfied with wasting your time on unnecessary operations - no problem, do as you think is right. As an experienced user and SketchUp teacher (Yes, I teach SU in Russian), I just suggest a faster and easier way to work. Matt is an excellent woodworker and I have a lot of respect for his skills. But believe me, in terms of knowledge of the SketchUp, he is still a beginner. I'm not trying to sound smarter than him or you, but aren't we here to learn something from each other?
@@sergeyshorokhov2167 Ignore that last person, I found your comment really useful. I didn't know it could do that, thank you for that info.
when it's blue it's "inside out" just select and choose "invert faces"