Wow I have had trouble conceptually seeing how to get the pattern to develop but for me I see now it is the negative space that makes it work. Thanks Chuck!
Hey chuck your videos are the best you are a leather genius one question after you cut the pieces for a project do you bevel the edges first and then dye or after you dye ???
Hi Chuck, Great basket weave examples. Can you tell me the number of the geometric basket weave tool you used in your last example. That's so cool! I've got to get one. Pete
Chuck; thanks for this video. I am extremely new to leather tooling, but loving what I am getting out of it so far. I am having a little issue with my basketweave stamp. It gives a crisp impression, but, the "inside" of the weave doesn't burnish. I'm using a 12-oz maul, so, I might just not be getting deep enough. The straight edges burnish well, and i can see the details of the basketweave - they just don't darken like the straight edges do. Is this more a depth of impression, or a casing issue, or something else I am missing?
PS - my bevel stamp makes a great burnished impression, but, the bigger stamps like the basketweave, or the flower center, while I get a great outline and can see the details, I don't get that same burnish on the same leather, within about 2 minutes of each other, using 10-oz veg tanned leather.
Hello Jose! For a bigger stamp, a heavier maul is recommended for a deeper impression and a cleaner look. For a smaller stamp, a lighter maul can be used to save some arm strength. Thank you for your question!
I like how you can use that triangle shaped basket weave stamp from the middle outward. Only want to do small areas of basket weave, so this one fills the bill. I can see on this video that your light set-up is a whole little table, but still curious about the lights themselves and the cover over them. Thanks.
Hi there Chuck, I hope this lil' message finds you in great health, ya gotta stay home, lol, well i'm loving your tutorials as always, but I have a issue I just know you can help me with, I can't seem to get any of my steel stampers to show up on softer or even heavier leather, I mean I can see the designs, but barely, this is frustrating, is there a darkening trick to get them to show up?
Hi Melody, The best leather to use for stamping is veg tanned leather. Chrome tanned leather won't hold the impression well and unfortunately there isn't a trick to help with this. If you are using veg tanned leather and they aren't showing up, make sure the leather is cased so you get nice, crisp impressions. If the leather is soft and spongey, from the belly area of the hide, then that may be the problem as this won't hold a stamp very well either. Let me know if that doesn't answer your question and we'll try to help some more.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Yes I do have the softer fuzzier leather, I take it, it's the belly leather, thank you so much for replying back so quickly, I just bought some better quality leather, so i'll try this next time, thanks a bunch & take care, just love your tutorials.
Hi and thanks again for your great videos! I notice that you have three stamps in the foreground starting a 5:08 that have what appears to be blue tape and a white cover of some sort. I assume these covers are to minimize the vibration/shock of hitting the tool in your fingers because I have some issues with that as well. Is my assumption correct and, if it is, what did you use to cover the tool handles? THANKS!
I’m having some trouble with it coming out 3D looking, I’m placing the stamp and getting the imprint of my stamp on the leather, but I’m not able to have the stamp impression really come together. Any ideas?
Hi Beth, I'm not sure I quite understand the question but if you're having trouble with the leather stretching or warping from the stamping, try covering the back of the leather with blue painters tape prior to stamping. This will help the leather stay put and not stretch. Otherwise, just practicing is really the best thing you can do to try and line up the stamps. Also making a center line or border line to work as an anchor for the stamp will help.
Hi Pete, Yes, we do carry these tools: Standard Basketweave Stamp: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/67-6985/basketweave-stamping-tool-/pr_40231/cp_/shop-now/hand-tools/stamping-carving/stamps Flared End Basketweave: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/67-6995/basketweave-stamping-tool-/pr_40241/cp_/shop-now/hand-tools/stamping-carving/stamps Geometric Basketweave: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/67-6963/geometric-stamping-tool/pr_40209/cp_/shop-now/hand-tools/stamping-carving/stamps
Hi Michael, We sell some of the Slickbald holster patterns - we'll link them so you can take a look! products.weaverleathersupply.com/search?ts=custom&w=slickbald
Are you trying to be efficient and get it done quickly? That will not work, you literally need to pay attention on every stamp and if you see it curving even slightly you must counter it before it becomes noticeable. By the way, it doesn't have to be perfect, don't forget you're very close to the project. What YOU see as a mistake no one else notices. I make an arrowhead pattern with basket weave stamps on my belts. I make mistakes as I go along and it bothers me. I actually have had people ask me if I embossed my pattern on a machine and I told them to look closer. "OH! I see it now!" Just like my hand stitching, I wish I had a sewing machine.
Chuck! You have no idea how much your videos have helped me... Cheers mate
Thank you so much, George!
Wow I have had trouble conceptually seeing how to get the pattern to develop but for me I see now it is the negative space that makes it work. Thanks Chuck!
All your videos are top notch.
I have a pair of cowboy cuffs
I need to finish up
Your a great inspiration.
Thank you
Thank you, Buster!!
Very nice! Thank you.
Hey chuck your videos are the best you are a leather genius one question after you cut the pieces for a project do you bevel the edges first and then dye or after you dye ???
Hi Antonio,
I would recommend beveling after dying, if needed you can always touch up the edges with additional dye once you've beveled and burnished.
Weaver Leathercraft oh ok got it thank you so much for your response and videos
Hi Chuck, Great basket weave examples. Can you tell me the number of the geometric basket weave tool you used in your last example. That's so cool! I've got to get one. Pete
Morning Chuck. Out of curiousity, could you please tell me what weight maul do you use for stamping? Thank you sir
Sir, what would the best oz be for stamping patterns, or minimum oz be, please? Form the metric side of the world.
Chuck what does the mail weigh?
Chuck; thanks for this video. I am extremely new to leather tooling, but loving what I am getting out of it so far. I am having a little issue with my basketweave stamp. It gives a crisp impression, but, the "inside" of the weave doesn't burnish. I'm using a 12-oz maul, so, I might just not be getting deep enough. The straight edges burnish well, and i can see the details of the basketweave - they just don't darken like the straight edges do. Is this more a depth of impression, or a casing issue, or something else I am missing?
PS - my bevel stamp makes a great burnished impression, but, the bigger stamps like the basketweave, or the flower center, while I get a great outline and can see the details, I don't get that same burnish on the same leather, within about 2 minutes of each other, using 10-oz veg tanned leather.
Beautiful - do you think that the heavier mall helps to make the stamping easier and cleaner looking?
Hello Jose! For a bigger stamp, a heavier maul is recommended for a deeper impression and a cleaner look. For a smaller stamp, a lighter maul can be used to save some arm strength. Thank you for your question!
Thanks , I am very new to this art form and getting better with help from experts like you.
I like how you can use that triangle shaped basket weave stamp from the middle outward. Only want to do small areas of basket weave, so this one fills the bill. I can see on this video that your light set-up is a whole little table, but still curious about the lights themselves and the cover over them. Thanks.
Hi there Chuck, I hope this lil' message finds you in great health, ya gotta stay home, lol, well i'm loving your tutorials as always, but I have a issue I just know you can help me with, I can't seem to get any of my steel stampers to show up on softer or even heavier leather, I mean I can see the designs, but barely, this is frustrating, is there a darkening trick to get them to show up?
Hi Melody,
The best leather to use for stamping is veg tanned leather. Chrome tanned leather won't hold the impression well and unfortunately there isn't a trick to help with this.
If you are using veg tanned leather and they aren't showing up, make sure the leather is cased so you get nice, crisp impressions. If the leather is soft and spongey, from the belly area of the hide, then that may be the problem as this won't hold a stamp very well either. Let me know if that doesn't answer your question and we'll try to help some more.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Yes I do have the softer fuzzier leather, I take it, it's the belly leather, thank you so much for replying back so quickly, I just bought some better quality leather, so i'll try this next time, thanks a bunch & take care, just love your tutorials.
How can you tell when you drive the stamp in to deep?
Hi and thanks again for your great videos! I notice that you have three stamps in the foreground starting a 5:08 that have what appears to be blue tape and a white cover of some sort. I assume these covers are to minimize the vibration/shock of hitting the tool in your fingers because I have some issues with that as well. Is my assumption correct and, if it is, what did you use to cover the tool handles? THANKS!
How can I get the size of the basketweave and the pattern?
Do you need to wet the leather first? I have to hit mine super hard to even barely leave a mark.
Yes! It's always a good idea to wet leather before tooling.
I’m having some trouble with it coming out 3D looking, I’m placing the stamp and getting the imprint of my stamp on the leather, but I’m not able to have the stamp impression really come together. Any ideas?
Hi Beth,
I'm not sure I quite understand the question but if you're having trouble with the leather stretching or warping from the stamping, try covering the back of the leather with blue painters tape prior to stamping. This will help the leather stay put and not stretch.
Otherwise, just practicing is really the best thing you can do to try and line up the stamps. Also making a center line or border line to work as an anchor for the stamp will help.
If I want a 1/4" border (for a belt), what size divider should I get?
Hi Brian,
If you're referring to a wing divider, most sizes will work - the wing dividers that we carry will adjust down to 1/8". Hope that helps!
Weaver Leathercraft Thanks! And, as both a leather crafter and videographer, I love your videos!
Does Weaver sell all three of these tools? Links please if they do.
Hi Pete,
Yes, we do carry these tools:
Standard Basketweave Stamp: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/67-6985/basketweave-stamping-tool-/pr_40231/cp_/shop-now/hand-tools/stamping-carving/stamps
Flared End Basketweave: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/67-6995/basketweave-stamping-tool-/pr_40241/cp_/shop-now/hand-tools/stamping-carving/stamps
Geometric Basketweave: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/67-6963/geometric-stamping-tool/pr_40209/cp_/shop-now/hand-tools/stamping-carving/stamps
What size mallet is that?
Hello Roland. It is a 24 oz. maul! Thank you for your comment!
DO YOU SELL A PATTERN FOR GUN HOLSTER
Hi Michael,
We sell some of the Slickbald holster patterns - we'll link them so you can take a look!
products.weaverleathersupply.com/search?ts=custom&w=slickbald
Nice thumb cover up 4:08 on that mistake were the ends dont meet, lol. Would of been a good example of what not to do.
Im still having trouble keeping the basket weave tool straight even on the line Its always like it moves
Are you trying to be efficient and get it done quickly? That will not work, you literally need to pay attention on every stamp and if you see it curving even slightly you must counter it before it becomes noticeable. By the way, it doesn't have to be perfect, don't forget you're very close to the project. What YOU see as a mistake no one else notices. I make an arrowhead pattern with basket weave stamps on my belts. I make mistakes as I go along and it bothers me. I actually have had people ask me if I embossed my pattern on a machine and I told them to look closer. "OH! I see it now!" Just like my hand stitching, I wish I had a sewing machine.