Sir... I have to say THANK YOU. This is the video I needed to help me understand what to do here. I have several 3d printers so in general I got the jest of what to do, but needed help nailing down the actual processes, bits and so on regarding CNC. So again. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO.
Great detailed finish. Wanted to check the feedrate and other settings! Thanks for this video! Btw, you can spray water over the acrylic to get a smooth finish, helps to cool the bit tip! Try it out :)
Great job, I have just started working in plastics and your feeds and speeds are a great price of info. I'm cheating by using dish wash soap thinned about 50/50 with water sprayed on the acrlic and it does give a better cut
@@D.E.Hammer Many thanks. I’ve seen that it’s best to flip your image, so that the front of the sign is smooth. Apparently, it also gives a better effect but I would like to hear your views. I’m just about to make one for my granddaughter.
@@ianknight2053 First to answer you question Yes, I NOW engrave on the back side, BUT I have my machine set up to where the Bottom Left is actually the Top Left, that way I do not have to remember to flip the image.
@@ianknight2053 Also, I learned a lot since I have made that video, and will be working on an updated one, after I finish up some other projects that I need to get finished.
Tutorial was very helpful. The settings are always a great big "Thank You". I just got my hands on a 3018 pro and having the worst time with settings in easel. Looking forward to future material
@@D.E.Hammer Nope. I had a laser engraver but had to sell it last year, so know a little working with vectors from that. But I am sure there is something i'd be able to learn. I bought my 3018 mostly for doing these, but havent put it together yet. :O
This video helped me big time to start my own engraving projects, thank you very much! I have a question for you, I have my programs and for the engraving, most of the time it turns into a white pretty engraving, but some other times the engraving is just clear, no color. As it is the same programs and the same bits, what could be the reason for this to happen? Hope it makes sense for you.
So many thanks for this video. And others based on doing this. I am just about to start, very excited. BTW? your method of masking tape and super glue is very clever, but looks messy and very expensive. Look up a product called "Kip Duoband". It is double sided masking tape. German, I think, so you may need to import it but man it should be so much cheaper, easier and less messy.
Your Welcome and thank you for watching. I have moved on to double sided tape. While super glue and blue tape are fine for smaller cuts, it does become cumbersome and messy on larger pieces. I have a several different brands of double sided tape, and they are not all created equally. I even tried carpet tape and that was a disaster in both the stock material moving and gumming up the bit.
You would want to build an enclosure. I'm not sure you want to run a vacuum with acrylic shavings. I'm pretty sure that's what killed my first shop vac. So you would need to sweep out the enclosure.
@@D.E.Hammer I'm planning on making DIY vacuum using washing machine pipe (flexible and small) and 12V fan, in the other end of pipe i'm going to attach it with the spindle, so it should suck the debris. I don't know how good it is but i'm gonna try that..
For Post Processor i use the GRBL and for toolpaths I created my own libraries, as the feeds and speeds for the machines they have are way to fast and aggressive.
Hi! thx for the vid. would be great/helpful to see the actual finish of the cut piece before its shown in the dark with the lights. atm its only shown half a second infront of the camera;). can you provide some closeup photos maybe?
Yes, but that is handled by the software. I personally draw all mine out in illustrator so I have a Vector file to work with in the CAM Software. Others convert a Raster Image to Vector with software. So it would be up to you to get the image you want into a file format like SVG that your CAM software can understand. There is also Laser etching photos OR if you had a STL file you could do a 2.5D Carve with the right software.
Hi and firstly thanks for the videos. I think I now know why I have molten acrylic on my 3018 V bit! Could you please tell me which vesrion of Carbide Create is being used as the latest download doesn't appear to let you input new tools or change tool parameters. Thanks you.
You cannot edit the default tool library. But you can create a personal library & create your tools in there. Copy & Paste works from existing library.
Thank You! No issue if you use a Cast Acrylic, the bases in the video I buy, but I also make my own. I have another video that is a follow up to this video that goes over Cast Vs Extruded Acyrlic: ruclips.net/video/aoNXvPiZFug/видео.html
CC V6 was still available but in their blog release for V7. If you look thru there you can get V6 for gcode. You can also try estlCam. It is not free, but it lets you export gcode. It just makes you wait longer and longer between exports.
@@D.E.Hammer I dont know if you figured it out yer but to home faster put in G0 on the Z4.0 line. that will tell the machine to use a rapid move from there on instead of the feed rate it was requested last.
Hello, Like the channel! Question....I am trying to cut 2.82 mm thick acrylic. I have created a logo using carbide create and when I run the simulation nothing appears. What am I doing wrong. I have my beginning depth at 0.00, bottom depth at 2. I am using a 20 degree bit and I have it set on XXL as the machine. I am using a 3018 Prover. Excited to get it to work, however I am getting frustrated.
@@D.E.Hammer 2.00 and the tool path Vcurve tool path....have got that part figured... here is my next issue. I have used carbide create pro, created a file, loaded it into CANDLE, but here is what I am unsure of. The wood board I put on, do I the probe before that? The probe is 13.69 the wood is 12.62 what do I use this is the probe G90G21G38.2Z-50F100; G92 Z12.62; G0Z25.... sorry I am so new at this. However, I am so VERY grateful for you being here for all of us.
With the stock spindle it is fairly loud, but nothing in comparison to a more high end router or spindle. Would not recommend for an apartment with out sound proofing. I do wear protective ear ware when using, but that is because I damaged my ears from one to many heavy metal concerts in my youth.
Hello, nice tutorial. I would like to ask what is the purpose of a "deep pocket"? The light source is from the bottom or from the side (in front of the pocket)? Thank You
What is your finish allowance and stepover for the 3mm cutting bit? And when I'm changing a tool in carbid create i need to fill in 2D Speeds and Feeds and 3D Speeds and Feeds, but are the Feedrate and RPM the same for 3D and 2D speeds and Feeds?
So for step over I use just under half of the bits diameter. So 3mm bit I would use 1.45mm or 1.4mm. Remember that the step over is only for when you pocket or 3D, so it will not effect your cutting/contour. For 3D, those will very from your 2D. I only played around with 3D for a little bit, and am still in the process getting my settings for that. The 3D settings will not effect your Cutting or Engraving they are just for when you use the 3D carve option. As for allowance, last time I checked they were about 0.05mm.
Hey, when I try to engrave acrylic sheet. It doesn’t come out clean. Like the edges are rough and small but thread like acrylic coming out. What should I do? Thanks
So I would get this when engraving when I was using the V-Bit, and I go to far down OR the bit was getting dull. By switching to a Spring Loaded Drag bit you should get rid of all of that. If you can not get a spring loaded drag bit I would cut a piece of sand paper down to about 1"x1" then fold it in half. Get a small container of water, and soak the sand paper in it. Then take the corner and go in the details and Carefully run the corner in the groves. Its not fun or easy. I would also confirm you are using Cast Acrylic.
Well, I have seen people say they use theirs in an apartment, but they did build an enclosure for it with sound proofing. Plus if your neighbors are anything like the ones I had at my first apartment.... I would say no, that was a fun 2 years.
No I do not use Easel, but there are lots of people who use it with the 3018 and other machines. I prefer to use locally stored programs vs internet based ones.
Paul. Marek from SainSmart FB group. Question about feed - 225 mm - it is very high but what is timing for this feed. I was today carving on plywood by 8 mm/sec = 480/min So is your feed per minute ? 2,5 hours is long time so I guess per minute = ca 4 /sec. Right ?
For me I use Illustrator as my CAD software to create a vector images. I then save it as a SVG and import it to Carbide Create Pro (CAM) to turn it into g-code. There are several other ways you can do this. You could use Inkscape which is free to create a vector image then save as SVG. You could use EASEL or Carbide Create (Pro) to make a design then save it as G-Code. I do have a video where I show how I make a vector image and save as a SVG in Illustrator. ruclips.net/video/dLTPEqxXfoA/видео.html
On this one I did 0.2mm Max Depth with the Vbit, and 1 Pass at 0.2mm, I now do 0.15mm and 2 passes if using a Vbit for 0.3mm Max Depth. I have switched over to a spring-loaded drag bit as I am getting better results with that. I hope google translated your question correctly.
@@shelby50411 I use any mm sized end mill like these on Amazon. I Normally use the Top left or Bottom right ones. www.amazon.com/Mcwdoit-Cutting-Engraving-Including-Titanium/dp/B07W5N72D4/ref=pd_di_sccai_1?pd_rd_w=JDuPh&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=RNEDMVS5HQGRZNZC4JP7&pd_rd_r=e56aad4a-407e-43b9-9852-ea01ecb33ade&pd_rd_wg=3bm0I&pd_rd_i=B07W5N72D4&psc=1
@@simarpannu9600 for best results I say .1mm and I really can only get that with a drag bit. For best results with a V bit .2mm The issue with the v bit is the varying thickness of the acrylic. So you have to make sure you go down far enough that your design is actually etched, that makes the thicker parts of your acrylic have a deeper cut, which makes the line Thicker. I like the thinner lines as that lets you pack in more detail.
@@D.E.Hammer thank you so much for replying but I have one more question, I have a 4mm thick square acrylic sheet that I want to cut but I only want the upper two sides to have the round edges. Is there any way to do that? Thanks
@@simarpannu9600 Let me make sure I am understanding you correctly. You have a square and want to cut two of the corners Off? If so, then I would recommend changing your start point to Center, and cut from there.
First of all, I really like this. Hats off to you. Great job brother! My question is, do you add something to make it light up the outline of your design that way, or will it just come out looking like that because of the cut?
Yep thats very important factor.....which few people ever mentions..all acrylic is not same....cast acrylic is more easily machinable...extruded is not..and cast acrylic is a lot more costly than extruded...ive had ok luck machining polycarbonate but its not as clear as acrylic....alum is similar...6061 alum cuts nice but some other cheap made alum / alloys just gum up bit ...i tried doing a cutout on a cheap chinese alum/alloy plate from inside a lcd tv and it gummed up so bad it wasnt machinable..
WOW...2.5 hours to do that. You need to upgrade to a 300watt spindle ...NO MORE THAN THAT! . You will be able to run at a faster feed rate and the spindle will have 24,000 rpm max speed. You will be able to finish that job in no time.
@@D.E.Hammer A 500 watt spindle would be ideal but Roger Watt a long time machinist said it's to powerful for the 3018 framework and gantry. He's got some excellent information on his channel. He modified the gantry on the 3018 he did a review on by adding a 3rd linear rod to the gantry and put a larger spindle on. It works perfect now for 3D carvings. Keep me posted I subscribed to your channel also.
Yeah I have not really put the research in yet to go forward with upgrading the spindle. Right now I am in the middle of converting my garage into a more suitable work space for everything, and finishing up projects for some clients. Thank you for the sub & thank you for recommending Roger Watt, will have to check him out.
Just ordered my 3018 to learn and prep for buying a Longmill. Nice video, thanks~
Congrats and if you have any questions feel free to ask.
Sir... I have to say THANK YOU. This is the video I needed to help me understand what to do here. I have several 3d printers so in general I got the jest of what to do, but needed help nailing down the actual processes, bits and so on regarding CNC. So again. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO.
Your Welcome Tony! I was in the same boat when I started.
Nice Job Hammer, love the name buy the way!
I'm just lucky my last name had hammer in it.
most informative. thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Man this is awesome, I need to get a CNC soon.
Rhank You and yes they are a lot of fun, and you can make a lot of cool stuff.
Zed, baby! 🇨🇦
Great detailed finish.
Wanted to check the feedrate and other settings! Thanks for this video!
Btw, you can spray water over the acrylic to get a smooth finish, helps to cool the bit tip! Try it out :)
I will have to try that out, I have heard about that water trick, but for Extruded Acrylic so it does not gum up.
Great job, I have just started working in plastics and your feeds and speeds are a great price of info. I'm cheating by using dish wash soap thinned about 50/50 with water sprayed on the acrlic and it does give a better cut
Very cool, I have not done that yet.
Thank you very much. MY 3018 working on your settings wery well.
Great to hear!
Thank you from the U.K. I’m just about to buy a CNC machine and can’t wait to give this a try.
Your Welcome, they are fun. If you have any questions ask away.
@@D.E.Hammer Many thanks. I’ve seen that it’s best to flip your image, so that the front of the sign is smooth. Apparently, it also gives a better effect but I would like to hear your views. I’m just about to make one for my granddaughter.
@@ianknight2053 First to answer you question Yes, I NOW engrave on the back side, BUT I have my machine set up to where the Bottom Left is actually the Top Left, that way I do not have to remember to flip the image.
@@ianknight2053 Also, I learned a lot since I have made that video, and will be working on an updated one, after I finish up some other projects that I need to get finished.
@@D.E.Hammer Thank you. I’ll look forward to that.
Tutorial was very helpful. The settings are always a great big "Thank You". I just got my hands on a 3018 pro and having the worst time with settings in easel. Looking forward to future material
Thanks Joshua! Yeah easel gave me a bunch of issues so I just stuck to the offline controller and have had no issues with that.
@@D.E.Hammer
"offline" do you mean the candle program that came with the cnc 3018?
@@Joshua-ju5uc no mine came with a physical controller that conects to the board that you can use to control the machine without a computer.
i know I am pretty off topic but do anyone know of a good site to stream new tv shows online ?
Can a laser head be added to this machine, please?
Yes tutorial on designs. Thanks.
You got it! Anything in particular?
@@D.E.Hammer Nope. I had a laser engraver but had to sell it last year, so know a little working with vectors from that. But I am sure there is something i'd be able to learn. I bought my 3018 mostly for doing these, but havent put it together yet. :O
Here is the design video
ruclips.net/video/dLTPEqxXfoA/видео.html
@@D.E.Hammer Sweet! Thanks!
Verry Nice 👍👍👍😃🎆
Thank you, just what I needed 👍😊
Awesome, glad ot helped.
This video helped me big time to start my own engraving projects, thank you very much! I have a question for you, I have my programs and for the engraving, most of the time it turns into a white pretty engraving, but some other times the engraving is just clear, no color. As it is the same programs and the same bits, what could be the reason for this to happen? Hope it makes sense for you.
So many thanks for this video. And others based on doing this. I am just about to start, very excited. BTW? your method of masking tape and super glue is very clever, but looks messy and very expensive. Look up a product called "Kip Duoband". It is double sided masking tape. German, I think, so you may need to import it but man it should be so much cheaper, easier and less messy.
Your Welcome and thank you for watching. I have moved on to double sided tape. While super glue and blue tape are fine for smaller cuts, it does become cumbersome and messy on larger pieces. I have a several different brands of double sided tape, and they are not all created equally. I even tried carpet tape and that was a disaster in both the stock material moving and gumming up the bit.
How did you handle the dust?, i want to put this cnc in my room, i have no garage
You would want to build an enclosure. I'm not sure you want to run a vacuum with acrylic shavings. I'm pretty sure that's what killed my first shop vac. So you would need to sweep out the enclosure.
@@D.E.Hammer I'm planning on making DIY vacuum using washing machine pipe (flexible and small) and 12V fan, in the other end of pipe i'm going to attach it with the spindle, so it should suck the debris. I don't know how good it is but i'm gonna try that..
@@D.E.Hammer thanks for telling your experience about yout vacuum
Thanks so much for this, what program do you create the SVG in?
I use illustrator to do 99% of my designs, and then carbide create for the simple stuff.
Great Video. Who did the music ?
Thank you. I mixed it a decade ago from some samples I had.
when using Carbide Create, and your Yora 3018, what machine do you pick from the list of machines in the drop down box?
For Post Processor i use the GRBL and for toolpaths I created my own libraries, as the feeds and speeds for the machines they have are way to fast and aggressive.
Hi! thx for the vid. would be great/helpful to see the actual finish of the cut piece before its shown in the dark with the lights. atm its only shown half a second infront of the camera;). can you provide some closeup photos maybe?
Will post some close up to the channel page tonight or tomorrow.
Thank you nice video! Is the unit cable of doing photo engraving?
Yes, but that is handled by the software. I personally draw all mine out in illustrator so I have a Vector file to work with in the CAM Software. Others convert a Raster Image to Vector with software. So it would be up to you to get the image you want into a file format like SVG that your CAM software can understand. There is also Laser etching photos OR if you had a STL file you could do a 2.5D Carve with the right software.
@@D.E.Hammer awesome i appreciate the tip. Take care man and keep them videos coming =)
Hi and firstly thanks for the videos. I think I now know why I have molten acrylic on my 3018 V bit! Could you please tell me which vesrion of Carbide Create is being used as the latest download doesn't appear to let you input new tools or change tool parameters. Thanks you.
I am using Carbide Create Pro Build 514, I remember they moved it at one point, so it may be in a different location.
You cannot edit the default tool library. But you can create a personal library & create your tools in there. Copy & Paste works from existing library.
Grest video...No issues with cutter gumming up? Actylic and polycarbonate can be difficult to cut....do u make or buy your bases that light up?
Thank You! No issue if you use a Cast Acrylic, the bases in the video I buy, but I also make my own.
I have another video that is a follow up to this video that goes over Cast Vs Extruded Acyrlic:
ruclips.net/video/aoNXvPiZFug/видео.html
What software did you use in the video
I used Carbide Create in this vid. By now that version is old. V7 will not generate gcode, only V6 will.
@@D.E.Hammer What do I use to generate g code?
CC V6 was still available but in their blog release for V7. If you look thru there you can get V6 for gcode. You can also try estlCam. It is not free, but it lets you export gcode. It just makes you wait longer and longer between exports.
Very interesting. Definitely not in my skill set. I suspect the design portion of the process would be most pleasurable for me.
Thank You, I have done a few design videos since this one.
@@D.E.Hammer I dont know if you figured it out yer but to home faster put in G0 on the Z4.0 line. that will tell the machine to use a rapid move from there on instead of the feed rate it was requested last.
It took a while, but yes I did figure it out.
Very cool! Where do you get the LED bases?
I get them off of amazon:
www.amazon.com/dp/B07JCSM7NR/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_CAMH6J7YEMC4AXF55NGW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@D.E.Hammer Great thank you!
Hello, Like the channel! Question....I am trying to cut 2.82 mm thick acrylic. I have created a logo using carbide create and when I run the simulation nothing appears. What am I doing wrong. I have my beginning depth at 0.00, bottom depth at 2. I am using a 20 degree bit and I have it set on XXL as the machine. I am using a 3018 Prover. Excited to get it to work, however I am getting frustrated.
So what is the final depth of your cut & what type of tool path do you have selected?
@@D.E.Hammer 2.00 and the tool path Vcurve tool path....have got that part figured... here is my next issue. I have used carbide create pro, created a file, loaded it into CANDLE, but here is what I am unsure of. The wood board I put on, do I the probe before that? The probe is 13.69 the wood is 12.62 what do I use this is the probe G90G21G38.2Z-50F100; G92 Z12.62; G0Z25.... sorry I am so new at this. However, I am so VERY grateful for you being here for all of us.
AHHH NO WORRIES ITS GOING!!!!
Glad to hear you got it going!
How is the noise when engraving the details stuff, is it very loud?
With the stock spindle it is fairly loud, but nothing in comparison to a more high end router or spindle. Would not recommend for an apartment with out sound proofing. I do wear protective ear ware when using, but that is because I damaged my ears from one to many heavy metal concerts in my youth.
Hello, nice tutorial.
I would like to ask what is the purpose of a "deep pocket"?
The light source is from the bottom or from the side (in front of the pocket)?
Thank You
That deep pocket is so the acrylic would fit into the base where the light source is.
Clear. Thanks for the fast replay.
What is your finish allowance and stepover for the 3mm cutting bit? And when I'm changing a tool in carbid create i need to fill in 2D Speeds and Feeds and 3D Speeds and Feeds, but are the Feedrate and RPM the same for 3D and 2D speeds and Feeds?
So for step over I use just under half of the bits diameter. So 3mm bit I would use 1.45mm or 1.4mm. Remember that the step over is only for when you pocket or 3D, so it will not effect your cutting/contour. For 3D, those will very from your 2D. I only played around with 3D for a little bit, and am still in the process getting my settings for that. The 3D settings will not effect your Cutting or Engraving they are just for when you use the 3D carve option. As for allowance, last time I checked they were about 0.05mm.
Hey, when I try to engrave acrylic sheet. It doesn’t come out clean. Like the edges are rough and small but thread like acrylic coming out. What should I do? Thanks
So I would get this when engraving when I was using the V-Bit, and I go to far down OR the bit was getting dull. By switching to a Spring Loaded Drag bit you should get rid of all of that. If you can not get a spring loaded drag bit I would cut a piece of sand paper down to about 1"x1" then fold it in half. Get a small container of water, and soak the sand paper in it. Then take the corner and go in the details and Carefully run the corner in the groves. Its not fun or easy. I would also confirm you are using Cast Acrylic.
I have a super random question. How loud is the machine when cutting acrylic?
It is maybe a little bit louder than when I cut wood, but nothing noticeably louder.
@@D.E.Hammer thanks for the quick reply. I’m
Wondering if I can get away with using it in my
apartment lol
Well, I have seen people say they use theirs in an apartment, but they did build an enclosure for it with sound proofing. Plus if your neighbors are anything like the ones I had at my first apartment.... I would say no, that was a fun 2 years.
Hello Sir, Im beginner in Cnc machine, Do you use the EASEL software in Cnc 3018?
No I do not use Easel, but there are lots of people who use it with the 3018 and other machines. I prefer to use locally stored programs vs internet based ones.
How thick is he acrylic and is it regular acrylic?
I am using a nominal 5mm thick acrylic. It is a cast acrylic.
Paul. Marek from SainSmart FB group. Question about feed - 225 mm - it is very high but what is timing for this feed. I was today carving on plywood by 8 mm/sec = 480/min So is your feed per minute ? 2,5 hours is long time so I guess per minute = ca 4 /sec. Right ?
Yes the 225mm is per minute, as that is how my software handles feed rate. Yes 4mm/second is the equivalent.
Do you have to polish the edges after they are cut?
Only when it does not cut all the way thru and you have artifacts left over. Other wise I only sand the pocket cut that goes into the base.
How do you turn a vector into a file that works for the Sainsmart 3018 prover?
For me I use Illustrator as my CAD software to create a vector images. I then save it as a SVG and import it to Carbide Create Pro (CAM) to turn it into g-code. There are several other ways you can do this. You could use Inkscape which is free to create a vector image then save as SVG. You could use EASEL or Carbide Create (Pro) to make a design then save it as G-Code. I do have a video where I show how I make a vector image and save as a SVG in Illustrator.
ruclips.net/video/dLTPEqxXfoA/видео.html
How long did you take to cut the acrylic?
Depends on how tall it is, but can be anywhere from 1 hour to 2 hours.
Кто понял, на какую глубину он рельеф делает, который светится?
On this one I did 0.2mm Max Depth with the Vbit, and 1 Pass at 0.2mm, I now do 0.15mm and 2 passes if using a Vbit for 0.3mm Max Depth. I have switched over to a spring-loaded drag bit as I am getting better results with that. I hope google translated your question correctly.
@@D.E.Hammer yes, you true understand me, thank you
Hi what kind of programm do you use?
For Design (CAD) I use Illustrator, for G-Code Generation (CAM) I use Carbide Create Pro, and then run the NC file form my off line controller.
yay
How did you make the stand
I bought the black ones off of Amazon, I also make my own and use Arduino Minis and LEDs.
Can a laser head be added to this machine, please?
I just got my cnc 3018 every time I add a gcode it doesn't not go on the wood and engrave
Hi Paul, That could be a lot of things, are you setting your Job/Project 0?
awesome tutorial! what's the name of the paper you use to paste the acrylic to the MDF? I'm a new user with the 3018 PROVer too
It is just blue painters tape, just put some down on your spoil board, then some on your acrylic, then super glue them together.
What style bit do u use for cutout in acrylic?..i typically use single flute...and sometimes 2 flute if no have single.
@@shelby50411 I use any mm sized end mill like these on Amazon. I Normally use the Top left or Bottom right ones.
www.amazon.com/Mcwdoit-Cutting-Engraving-Including-Titanium/dp/B07W5N72D4/ref=pd_di_sccai_1?pd_rd_w=JDuPh&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=RNEDMVS5HQGRZNZC4JP7&pd_rd_r=e56aad4a-407e-43b9-9852-ea01ecb33ade&pd_rd_wg=3bm0I&pd_rd_i=B07W5N72D4&psc=1
Hey are those 15 degrees or 20? And does it make a difference?
If you are only going down .1- .3mm it does not Really matter. As you are just scratching the surface. I believe they are the 30 degree bits.
@@D.E.Hammer thanks but how deep do you recommend i should engrave for the best result?
@@simarpannu9600 for best results I say .1mm and I really can only get that with a drag bit. For best results with a V bit .2mm The issue with the v bit is the varying thickness of the acrylic. So you have to make sure you go down far enough that your design is actually etched, that makes the thicker parts of your acrylic have a deeper cut, which makes the line Thicker. I like the thinner lines as that lets you pack in more detail.
@@D.E.Hammer thank you so much for replying but I have one more question, I have a 4mm thick square acrylic sheet that I want to cut but I only want the upper two sides to have the round edges. Is there any way to do that? Thanks
@@simarpannu9600 Let me make sure I am understanding you correctly. You have a square and want to cut two of the corners Off? If so, then I would recommend changing your start point to Center, and cut from there.
First of all, I really like this. Hats off to you. Great job brother! My question is, do you add something to make it light up the outline of your design that way, or will it just come out looking like that because of the cut?
Nothing added, it comes out this way because of the cut.
Yep thats very important factor.....which few people ever mentions..all acrylic is not same....cast acrylic is more easily machinable...extruded is not..and cast acrylic is a lot more costly than extruded...ive had ok luck machining polycarbonate but its not as clear as acrylic....alum is similar...6061 alum cuts nice but some other cheap made alum / alloys just gum up bit ...i tried doing a cutout on a cheap chinese alum/alloy plate from inside a lcd tv and it gummed up so bad it wasnt machinable..
WOW...2.5 hours to do that. You need to upgrade to a 300watt spindle ...NO MORE THAN THAT! . You will be able to run at a faster feed rate and the spindle will have 24,000 rpm max speed. You will be able to finish that job in no time.
I plan on doing so, once I get some other projects I am working on finished.
@@D.E.Hammer A 500 watt spindle would be ideal but Roger Watt a long time machinist said it's to powerful for the 3018 framework and gantry. He's got some excellent information on his channel. He modified the gantry on the 3018 he did a review on by adding a 3rd linear rod to the gantry and put a larger spindle on. It works perfect now for 3D carvings. Keep me posted I subscribed to your channel also.
Yeah I have not really put the research in yet to go forward with upgrading the spindle. Right now I am in the middle of converting my garage into a more suitable work space for everything, and finishing up projects for some clients. Thank you for the sub & thank you for recommending Roger Watt, will have to check him out.
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