Thanks for the video. Was on the fence about using Akzo before seeing this, you helped me make up my mind that it's not too hard to use. (Also, "I'm a Canadian, we gotta fight corrosion" -- haha that's awesome, I'm in a state bordering Canada and we're happy to help fight corrosion alongside you guys. :-)
+Jason & Christine Pipkin they are awesome! Just a warning. Akzo sheet says to keep them in there original container. They are not air tight. The catalyst is thin and can creep up the mixing shaft. I keep both mixing mates in a small bar fridge.
Thanks Rob, I used a maroon Scotch Brite pad on all surfaces and than cleaned with alcohol until the rag came clean. it takes forever but the results speak for themselves.
I tried it exactly like you did and it turned out well but I had to put the parts on sticky tape to keep them from being blown away by the spray gun. I now read the instructions from AKZO and they recommend an air pressure of just 8-25 psi while you recommended 40 psi. Would it be good to go lower on the pressure to keep the parts from taking off?
A lot depends on the gun. The old siphon feed guns often needed 40 psi. The new gravity feed HVLP guns often work best with 18-22 psi, depending on tip size. Generally, the gun maker will have very good recommendations. Also, his 40 psi was static pressure. I suspect it drops a fair bit when he hits the trigger, depending on the size and length of his air hose. Generally, you should set the pressure with the trigger pulled and air flowing.
A question that has 1000's of posts bantering about. If my primary address was in Arizona I wouldn't. Living in Canada close to the coast with the temp and humidity variance i think its a good idea. Also hides dust in the fuse. Looks cool like something the army or airforce built. Protects against scratches and forces all surfaces to be smooth and free of burrs or rough edges.YRMV Good Luck!
Great Video for those perplexed by the thousand priming opinions - one question is did you do any prep other than scuff before applying primer i.e. Alumiprep? Thanks and good luck with the build!
Not sure about Canada but here in the USA the purple Harbor Freight HVLP guns are often on sale for $9.99 with coupon, so if your gun accidentally gets clogged it's not too expensive to just buy a new one. Don't need a fancy gun for priming the inside parts imho.
How do you find you need to let the Akzo dry prior to working further with the piece? I see some people dimple before priming and some dimple after, then rivet. In either case, how long until you can proceed onward with the construction of the part?
Dan Niendorff hey Dan, the parts are ready to go a day or two max after priming. I prefer to scuff prior to dimple to save my scuff pads but dimple before primer. Rivets is last. Good luck!
Andrew Atalla Thanks! I’m trying to figure out a primer system for my upcoming build. Looks like the AKZO would do very well, but still concerned about the dry time.... in your experience, what do you think is the minimum time after priming before riveting?
Hi Andrew. Really great video, thank you so much for posting that. I have been confused about priming from day one and you made it look so easy!Jason Ellis had mentioned in one of his videos that if you prime your parts after match drilling / debrrring then you no longer can get the rivets into the holes and they have to be lightly re drilled. Did you encounter this problem at all? Or do you recommend priming parts before match drilling?Also can you please tell me which AKZO product you are using? There are a few different ones out there. Thanks again!
+Casey Mannion hey there Casey thanks very much for the awesome comments. The AKZO I use is found from aircraft Spruce. I have never had any problems getting a rivet back in the hole after priming. Maybe once or twice I have run a reamer through it by hand and that's the odd case. My take on the situation is protect all metal that is been machined at all and the Alclad surface has been removed. IE inside holes One thing that I have been corrected on that I have not updated on the Videos is that there is a flash time for the primer prior to use of 30 minutes. I have not had any problems mixing and spraying immediately however the instructions say different. Good luck!
Thanks for the quick response Andrew! Good to know you didn't have issues with the primer changing the hole sizes and I agree with you that it's probably better to have the primer on all the bare machined metal. I figured it would have a short flash time / pot life because it dried so quickly. I was happy to hear that because that means I can get both sides primed the same day. I am working on an RV10 and live on the west coast of Florida so I definitely want to prime also being so close to the gulf. Bad news is i am getting QB wings so I can't dictate which primer is used but I hear Van's uses PG60G2 which in spite of bad remarks the majority of folks say it works pretty well. BTW, I love the shop you are working in, very nice!
Josef Prem these are for the most part internal parts. A top coat will be applied to to outside of the airplane or alclad and vinyl. I have seen it used for interior exposed surfaces as well and while I don’t know for sure it is extremely scratch resistance.
Thanks for the video. Was on the fence about using Akzo before seeing this, you helped me make up my mind that it's not too hard to use. (Also, "I'm a Canadian, we gotta fight corrosion" -- haha that's awesome, I'm in a state bordering Canada and we're happy to help fight corrosion alongside you guys. :-)
Awesome vid! I had no idea that the mixing mate lid existed, I promptly ordered 2.
+Jason & Christine Pipkin they are awesome! Just a warning. Akzo sheet says to keep them in there original container. They are not air tight. The catalyst is thin and can creep up the mixing shaft. I keep both mixing mates in a small bar fridge.
Thanks for putting that together. I am using the Sherman Williams P60G2, but that does look nice.
Great wash primer just has no corrosion protection
Great demonstration video. The lumps in the primer are probably due to not mixing as you pour the second chemical into the measuring cup.
Great Video! Very helpful. All your videos have been extremely instructive. Keep it up! How did you prep the parts? Alumiprep, acetone?
Thanks Rob, I used a maroon Scotch Brite pad on all surfaces and than cleaned with alcohol until the rag came clean. it takes forever but the results speak for themselves.
I tried it exactly like you did and it turned out well but I had to put the parts on sticky tape to keep them from being blown away by the spray gun. I now read the instructions from AKZO and they recommend an air pressure of just 8-25 psi while you recommended 40 psi. Would it be good to go lower on the pressure to keep the parts from taking off?
Martin Renschler I’ll have to try a lower pressure. Thanks!
A lot depends on the gun. The old siphon feed guns often needed 40 psi. The new gravity feed HVLP guns often work best with 18-22 psi, depending on tip size. Generally, the gun maker will have very good recommendations.
Also, his 40 psi was static pressure. I suspect it drops a fair bit when he hits the trigger, depending on the size and length of his air hose. Generally, you should set the pressure with the trigger pulled and air flowing.
Is priming really necessary with Van's aluminum parts? I thought that the alclad surface oxidation was enough to protect the parts from corrosion?
A question that has 1000's of posts bantering about. If my primary address was in Arizona I wouldn't. Living in Canada close to the coast with the temp and humidity variance i think its a good idea. Also hides dust in the fuse. Looks cool like something the army or airforce built. Protects against scratches and forces all surfaces to be smooth and free of burrs or rough edges.YRMV Good Luck!
Great Video for those perplexed by the thousand priming opinions - one question is did you do any prep other than scuff before applying primer i.e. Alumiprep? Thanks and good luck with the build!
Just scuffed. I don’t use alumiprep thanks for watching
Great stuff! How are you scuffing the part prior to application? Sandpaper? Steel wool? Scotch brite?
Maroon Scotch brite pads
My two favorite RUclips channels! Jason and Andrew! Now quit asking each other questions and put out more build videos!
Hi Andrew, I am ordering my AKZO primer today and wanted to ask you what kind of product you use to clean the gun after spraying? Thanks in advance.
Casey Mannion I use lacquer thinner and flush everything real well asap.
Not sure about Canada but here in the USA the purple Harbor Freight HVLP guns are often on sale for $9.99 with coupon, so if your gun accidentally gets clogged it's not too expensive to just buy a new one. Don't need a fancy gun for priming the inside parts imho.
How do you find you need to let the Akzo dry prior to working further with the piece? I see some people dimple before priming and some dimple after, then rivet. In either case, how long until you can proceed onward with the construction of the part?
Dan Niendorff hey Dan, the parts are ready to go a day or two max after priming. I prefer to scuff prior to dimple to save my scuff pads but dimple before primer. Rivets is last. Good luck!
Andrew Atalla Thanks! I’m trying to figure out a primer system for my upcoming build. Looks like the AKZO would do very well, but still concerned about the dry time.... in your experience, what do you think is the minimum time after priming before riveting?
Dan Niendorff 6-12 hrs would be my guess
Andrew Atalla Thanks!
Hi Andrew. Really great video, thank you so much for posting that. I have been confused about priming from day one and you made it look so easy!Jason Ellis had mentioned in one of his videos that if you prime your parts after match drilling / debrrring then you no longer can get the rivets into the holes and they have to be lightly re drilled. Did you encounter this problem at all? Or do you recommend priming parts before match drilling?Also can you please tell me which AKZO product you are using? There are a few different ones out there. Thanks again!
+Casey Mannion hey there Casey thanks very much for the awesome comments. The AKZO I use is found from aircraft Spruce. I have never had any problems getting a rivet back in the hole after priming. Maybe once or twice I have run a reamer through it by hand and that's the odd case. My take on the situation is protect all metal that is been machined at all and the Alclad surface has been removed. IE inside holes
One thing that I have been corrected on that I have not updated on the Videos is that there is a flash time for the primer prior to use of 30 minutes. I have not had any problems mixing and spraying immediately however the instructions say different. Good luck!
Thanks for the quick response Andrew! Good to know you didn't have issues with the primer changing the hole sizes and I agree with you that it's probably better to have the primer on all the bare machined metal. I figured it would have a short flash time / pot life because it dried so quickly. I was happy to hear that because that means I can get both sides primed the same day.
I am working on an RV10 and live on the west coast of Florida so I definitely want to prime also being so close to the gulf. Bad news is i am getting QB wings so I can't dictate which primer is used but I hear Van's uses PG60G2 which in spite of bad remarks the majority of folks say it works pretty well. BTW, I love the shop you are working in, very nice!
Nice job on the video. Wondering how you determined if this primer requires a topcoat, or is this step sufficient?
Josef Prem these are for the most part internal parts. A top coat will be applied to to outside of the airplane or alclad and vinyl. I have seen it used for interior exposed surfaces as well and while I don’t know for sure it is extremely scratch resistance.
This video needs louder background music. I could still hear you talking. 😂