The notch is about as important as all the other variables associated with friction fire-making. More like getting enough variables to come together for a decent success rate; Especially from a short-term, on-the-spot unplanned event scenario. A big flared notch isn't necessarily wrong, but may not be very efficient either, depending on the situation. I've been going more for the glacier effect notch as opposed to filling a large notch with a lot of dust particles. I think the standard pie shaped notch is more efficient as the hot smoke (gases) circulates better through a normal notch dust pile. If the dust doesn't flowing through the notch and bunches up then the dust may be too moist or full of resin. If it flows nicely then air will get to the hottest part of the dust pile to form an ember. Think Goldilocks, not too big, not too small, but just right. A general rule of thumb is the fireboard should be about as thick as the diameter of the spindle (for both hand & bow drill methods). Example, a 1/2" diameter spindle to a 1/2" thick fireboard. Also, you can drill the divot closer to the edge of the fireboard with the hand drill as there's no side pressure against the divot like you'd experience with the bow drill. You're not as likely to break the notch with the hand drill so you can get closer or have a shallower notch (~1/4") as opposed to the bow drill. A shallower notch with a standard pie shaped notch can give you the Oxygen needed to transition from the pyrolysis state to the combustion state (a glowing ember) if the the wood materials are reasonably dry and in a good state-of-decay. If you've prepared a decent tinder bundle, a big fat ember (dust pile) isn't really necessary. If the friction fire materials and tinder bundle are less than ideal then you're likely to have to find that balance of variables that make it all come together. Hence, possibly a big notch with a big ember. If anything, consider cutting the ember in half to give yourself a backup ember, just in case blowing the tinder bundle to flame doesn't go on the 1st attempt. Keep in mind, it's not uncommon to easily get the ember and suddenly struggle to blow it to flame. Happens to me fairly often. It's not always so obvious what the easiest part of successfully making a fire by friction will come from, ha ha. Try to be ready for anything til you have a reasonably sustainable fire.
Cool video mate, I've only just started to get to grips with the bow drill but the hand drill and the fire plough are on my "To Learn" list. Really enjoyed this. Take care.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice video.
This is such a helpful video, thank you! Especially the tip about the knife.
Oh you are welcome.... Now remember... Don't lose your knife.... Again!
The notch is about as important as all the other variables associated with friction fire-making. More like getting enough variables to come together for a decent success rate; Especially from a short-term, on-the-spot unplanned event scenario. A big flared notch isn't necessarily wrong, but may not be very efficient either, depending on the situation. I've been going more for the glacier effect notch as opposed to filling a large notch with a lot of dust particles. I think the standard pie shaped notch is more efficient as the hot smoke (gases) circulates better through a normal notch dust pile. If the dust doesn't flowing through the notch and bunches up then the dust may be too moist or full of resin. If it flows nicely then air will get to the hottest part of the dust pile to form an ember. Think Goldilocks, not too big, not too small, but just right.
A general rule of thumb is the fireboard should be about as thick as the diameter of the spindle (for both hand & bow drill methods). Example, a 1/2" diameter spindle to a 1/2" thick fireboard. Also, you can drill the divot closer to the edge of the fireboard with the hand drill as there's no side pressure against the divot like you'd experience with the bow drill. You're not as likely to break the notch with the hand drill so you can get closer or have a shallower notch (~1/4") as opposed to the bow drill. A shallower notch with a standard pie shaped notch can give you the Oxygen needed to transition from the pyrolysis state to the combustion state (a glowing ember) if the the wood materials are reasonably dry and in a good state-of-decay.
If you've prepared a decent tinder bundle, a big fat ember (dust pile) isn't really necessary. If the friction fire materials and tinder bundle are less than ideal then you're likely to have to find that balance of variables that make it all come together. Hence, possibly a big notch with a big ember. If anything, consider cutting the ember in half to give yourself a backup ember, just in case blowing the tinder bundle to flame doesn't go on the 1st attempt. Keep in mind, it's not uncommon to easily get the ember and suddenly struggle to blow it to flame. Happens to me fairly often. It's not always so obvious what the easiest part of successfully making a fire by friction will come from, ha ha. Try to be ready for anything til you have a reasonably sustainable fire.
Great instruction video brother!
good explanation brother. cottonwood root works well also. white pine isnt in my area at all. but cottonwood root works fantastic 👍🔥
Cool video mate, I've only just started to get to grips with the bow drill but the hand drill and the fire plough are on my "To Learn" list. Really enjoyed this. Take care.
very cool i am learning my self the bow drill
stuart
first! liked the demo, thx brother :)
Thank you!
Great demo! I love that blade! It's like my Mora Classic 2 on roids! That's cool!
Great video as usual Jeff. sweet, controlled work with the Leuku too brother!
Hey thanks for the good videos any tips or tricks always helps, I really like that knife who makes it?
+joseph Mulder It is from Sweden... arcticshop.se
+Scout Bushcraft hey thank you i just checked them out what beautiful knives thanks again
+joseph Mulder Yes they have some great stuff
what is the base board made out of?