Good job. on the chainsaw work. When mine rock it's almost always bark on a bunk. I don't have a turner so, I turn the big ones with a pig pole with a winch. Thanks for the good video Brent
For your first few cuts, have you tried not raising the side supports all the way up? That would allow the log to be positioned closer to the rail enabling a wider cut.
No I haven’t. The only place the cable rubs is along the front outrigger. The cable dose have a spot on it but that is for nicking it with a chainsaw. It’s never shown signs of wear from the little metal on metal.
You got the number wrong a little. I have an LT35 HD too. You can cut 25" in the "mouth as you call it. To cut 30-32 " Take a few inch of one side and flip it 90 degrees and then take another few inches off that side, You should be able to get it down to a 25" cant. I do it a lot. Takes me a few minutes sometimes to flip a log.
If I square up a cant 22” wide and it’s up against the log stops that’s about all it will do for me. 18” is comfortable but I have never been able to get 25” out of mine. I wonder if the hydro model is set up a little different?
@@DustyRanch The only difference should be the hydraulics which you can always add on your mill as an option [according to Woodmizer] - here are the specs as they list them for BOTH mills: Features 32" max log diameter with 26" max width of cut and 21' length of cut Powered saw head up/down & forward/reverse SimpleSet Setworks allows two pre-set board thicknesses to quickly and accurately control blade height while referencing from the previous cut Standard trailer with patented cantilever design and trapezoid shaped bed Fully assembled with free one-on-one sawmill training I question the 26" width of cut. I have done 25" several times - It is possible to get close to 26" and some folks have done it [there are videos of folks cutting like 25 3/4" [Iron and Oak Sawmill videos]. The log must be perfectly straight with no bumps, limbs etc. They must all be trimmed off. Put your stops almost all the way down so they are just touching UNDER the curved widest part of the log, but still up enough to do the job when you tighten your clamp, and will still let your mill post pass by - This will gain you an inch or so. I just cut 23 - 26 inch 5' Ash log slabs the other day that - it had all kinds of bumps and limb cuts and such [THAT was a pain in the butt because it's hard to keep the log straight - if I did not have the hydraulics I would have given up] Trimmed three sides enough the get it down to 24-25" still had live edge on most of two sides - I cut slabs for sale] The hydraulics are incredible. If you are ever able you should upgrade - I got the mill with them because I am going on 68 and just do not want the extra work of turning..
I just watched your video again. You show from roller to roller is 26". Means you should be able to cut close to that width on a log that is trimmed flat on the sides or has straight sides. Just trim one side, flip it 90 degree and trim the perpendicular side and you should be good to go. If you put your stops up you could probably roll it easier with your skid steer. No?
@@timothymyers6827 yeah, so if I put the bark side up against the operating side roller with the stops folded down Approximately halfway. I could potentially get a 25 -26 inch board with Bark (live edge) on one or both side. But if the flat cut side is up against the log stops I lose several inches of that.
@@timothymyers6827 in day to day operation I actually pull the log off the mill with the Skidsteer and flip it 180, Rinse and repeat. Way faster and less labor. Just wanted to show the technology on the mill for the video. I have been running this unit for almost 7 years and I just ordered the 40 super I’m March. I’m ready for hydro. It will be here in February.
Hey Ray, that’s actually a really great question that I’m surprised I don’t hear more frequently. Firstly let me start by saying I have exceptionally excellent neighbors whom I have a long-standing relationship with. When I first got my meal they were a little concerned about the noise, and after running it for a while they were surprised at how quiet it was. You have to remember the engine itself is not much larger than a lawnmower engine so imagine that sound and then imagine the sound of an in shop bandsaw cutting a piece of lumber. It is not anywhere near the decibel of a conventional sawmill. But if you were extremely concerned about sound you may want to look into the electric motors.
So the mouth on that unit is 26” so… if everything is perfect roller to roller you can get 26”. As we all know nothing is ever perfect. Either the log stops up realistically 20” is all I could do.
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Good job. on the chainsaw work. When mine rock it's almost always bark on a bunk. I don't have a turner so, I turn the big ones with a pig pole with a winch.
Thanks for the good video
Brent
The winch is a great idea.
For your first few cuts, have you tried not raising the side supports all the way up? That would allow the log to be positioned closer to the rail enabling a wider cut.
That is definitely a way to do it. It makes me nervous on logs this size. Can’t imagine picking it up from the wrong side.
Have you thought about adding another roller or two to keep your cable from cutting into the metal and breaking your cable?
No I haven’t. The only place the cable rubs is along the front outrigger. The cable dose have a spot on it but that is for nicking it with a chainsaw. It’s never shown signs of wear from the little metal on metal.
You got the number wrong a little. I have an LT35 HD too. You can cut 25" in the "mouth as you call it. To cut 30-32 " Take a few inch of one side and flip it 90 degrees and then take another few inches off that side, You should be able to get it down to a 25" cant. I do it a lot. Takes me a few minutes sometimes to flip a log.
If I square up a cant 22” wide and it’s up against the log stops that’s about all it will do for me. 18” is comfortable but I have never been able to get 25” out of mine. I wonder if the hydro model is set up a little different?
@@DustyRanch The only difference should be the hydraulics which you can always add on your mill as an option [according to Woodmizer] - here are the specs as they list them for BOTH mills:
Features
32" max log diameter with 26" max width of cut and 21' length of cut
Powered saw head up/down & forward/reverse
SimpleSet Setworks allows two pre-set board thicknesses to quickly and accurately control blade height while referencing from the previous cut
Standard trailer with patented cantilever design and trapezoid shaped bed
Fully assembled with free one-on-one sawmill training
I question the 26" width of cut. I have done 25" several times - It is possible to get close to 26" and some folks have done it [there are videos of folks cutting like 25 3/4" [Iron and Oak Sawmill videos]. The log must be perfectly straight with no bumps, limbs etc. They must all be trimmed off. Put your stops almost all the way down so they are just touching UNDER the curved widest part of the log, but still up enough to do the job when you tighten your clamp, and will still let your mill post pass by - This will gain you an inch or so. I just cut 23 - 26 inch 5' Ash log slabs the other day that - it had all kinds of bumps and limb cuts and such [THAT was a pain in the butt because it's hard to keep the log straight - if I did not have the hydraulics I would have given up] Trimmed three sides enough the get it down to 24-25" still had live edge on most of two sides - I cut slabs for sale]
The hydraulics are incredible. If you are ever able you should upgrade - I got the mill with them because I am going on 68 and just do not want the extra work of turning..
I just watched your video again. You show from roller to roller is 26". Means you should be able to cut close to that width on a log that is trimmed flat on the sides or has straight sides. Just trim one side, flip it 90 degree and trim the perpendicular side and you should be good to go. If you put your stops up you could probably roll it easier with your skid steer. No?
@@timothymyers6827 yeah, so if I put the bark side up against the operating side roller with the stops folded down Approximately halfway. I could potentially get a 25 -26 inch board with Bark (live edge) on one or both side. But if the flat cut side is up against the log stops I lose several inches of that.
@@timothymyers6827 in day to day operation I actually pull the log off the mill with the Skidsteer and flip it 180, Rinse and repeat. Way faster and less labor. Just wanted to show the technology on the mill for the video. I have been running this unit for almost 7 years and I just ordered the 40 super I’m March. I’m ready for hydro. It will be here in February.
I looking to by a mill but I am concerned about the noise. I noticed homes in the back ground. Do they complain or are there other issues?
Thanks
Hey Ray, that’s actually a really great question that I’m surprised I don’t hear more frequently. Firstly let me start by saying I have exceptionally excellent neighbors whom I have a long-standing relationship with. When I first got my meal they were a little concerned about the noise, and after running it for a while they were surprised at how quiet it was. You have to remember the engine itself is not much larger than a lawnmower engine so imagine that sound and then imagine the sound of an in shop bandsaw cutting a piece of lumber. It is not anywhere near the decibel of a conventional sawmill. But if you were extremely concerned about sound you may want to look into the electric motors.
WoodMizer says 26” width cut but you’re saying you can only get about 20”??
So the mouth on that unit is 26” so… if everything is perfect roller to roller you can get 26”. As we all know nothing is ever perfect. Either the log stops up realistically 20” is all I could do.
Does
?