Your crew is top notch Mike! Love your videos(from an old concrete finisher)! Can you give the specifics of the mix you used on this pad? Slump? I can honestly say we never poured that wet but then again we didn`t use these additives today that make concrete a better mix. Keep `em coming brother!
I’ve used it and it’s not really self leveling. Just makes it much much more workable and easier to rake and screed. When you’re taking a 4 inch slump and screeding it, especially in summer time, it will wear you out quick.
I gotta try that water reducer. Would you say you’re at a 8 slump? You literally have to keep concrete on the stick instead of dragging it back, plus your top is closed up even before you float it. I know a lot of what you pour is indoor but will you pour that loose when your doin a driveway, especially with air entrainment?
Hey Mike, how would they determine the slump at the job site if the water reducer is making it soupier? Looks like that reducer would give a false slump test.
For high range water reducers should be added on site as they wear off quickly. You should take a slump test prior to adding them. And then do a spread test after super p is added to make sure the concrete does not separate. And any concrete over a 5" slump should never be screened with a vibrating screener as it will sink the aggregate from the paste.
Hi Mike. I noticed that you did not lift (suspend) the metal grid that is on the surface of the foam. I thought that for an 8" pour reinforcement is needed. Can you tell us about that? Thanks for your awesome videos.
Hey Mike, we have problems with black/green mold and mildew on patios, sidewalks driveways. What is the best product to seal with today? I have seen many of your sealing videos but do not see mold talked about. thanks.
It's a radiant heat floor you dont want the tubing close to the top because you sawcut the floor. If you hit the tube with the saw well you can figure out the rest.
I noticed you are using the battery powered screed demon with the high range water reducer, how does it work with a mid range? Are there slump limitations with the battery powered creed?
one thing i notice is that the east coast does NOT believe in front ready-mix trucks? here in the mid-west that's all we have front discharge ready mix trucks.
boy that's nice and loose. I've been using "cement all" mixed to fluid consistency for some hard access void filling and rebarring and I can barely get it mixed before it starts firming up
Wire is definitely under the pipes flat on the base if it’s tied to the pipes here and there why not just lay it over the pipes and let the concrete bind underneath.. genuine question
Dumb comment, the wire is supposed to be there for reinforcement and sitting on the bottom. There should be bar chairs under it, these guys are cowboys.
@@GRUBB-MUDD wrong, that slab inspection would not be passed in Australia. We do things differently here, a lot different. While I will admit a lot of Americans finishing skills are excellent the prep work and screeding is abysmal.
Why is everyone screwing over how wet it is? Hand screeding 4-6" slump the other day blowing out my arse this looks way easier to work.. BTW what would happens if it didnt have the plaz but was still that wet?
2” of foam deters 2’ of frost, the wire is to tie the heat tubes down, and once the heat is turned on you don’t have to worry about frost, not laziness, it’s how it’s specked out, and it’s a heated slab, so you don’t need a footing, and haunched slabs are 50/50 up here, but definitely not necessary in this case. There’s your free education about “concreting”
Looks like water with a bit of concrete with it. Great job.
Best concrete channel.
Your crew is top notch Mike! Love your videos(from an old concrete finisher)! Can you give the specifics of the mix you used on this pad? Slump? I can honestly say we never poured that wet but then again we didn`t use these additives today that make concrete a better mix. Keep `em coming brother!
Good mornin everybody! NOW GIT TA WORK!
tearing out concrete as we speak
with that much slump is there actually much leveling to be done , or does it just self level .
I’ve used it and it’s not really self leveling. Just makes it much much more workable and easier to rake and screed. When you’re taking a 4 inch slump and screeding it, especially in summer time, it will wear you out quick.
@@brentpearson4877 many thanks ,, it just so so sloppy ...
@@tomthompson7400 no problem! And yeah definitely
stand out video Mike, these POV style really shine for the kind of wrk you do ...more of these plz
I gotta try that water reducer. Would you say you’re at a 8 slump? You literally have to keep concrete on the stick instead of dragging it back, plus your top is closed up even before you float it. I know a lot of what you pour is indoor but will you pour that loose when your doin a driveway, especially with air entrainment?
Hey Mike, how would they determine the slump at the job site if the water reducer is making it soupier? Looks like that reducer would give a false slump test.
Yeah I was curious about this same question as well. I know the cylinder tests would be the same tho.
For high range water reducers should be added on site as they wear off quickly. You should take a slump test prior to adding them. And then do a spread test after super p is added to make sure the concrete does not separate. And any concrete over a 5" slump should never be screened with a vibrating screener as it will sink the aggregate from the paste.
Hi Mike. I noticed that you did not lift (suspend) the metal grid that is on the surface of the foam. I thought that for an 8" pour reinforcement is needed. Can you tell us about that?
Thanks for your awesome videos.
I thought the same thing then realized he probably has fiber mesh in the mix and the wire is for fastening the heating tubes only
Keep up with the camera view on your head, really like it
Hey Mike, we have problems with black/green mold and mildew on patios, sidewalks driveways. What is the best product to seal with today? I have seen many of your sealing videos but do not see mold talked about. thanks.
I am not a concrete guy but I am curious why the steel mesh is not be held up at all?
Probably not a good idea to pull on it too much. It has very expensive tubing for heat control in the winter
It’s money in my eyes
It's a radiant heat floor you dont want the tubing close to the top because you sawcut the floor. If you hit the tube with the saw well you can figure out the rest.
You guys make it look easy.
I noticed you are using the battery powered screed demon with the high range water reducer, how does it work with a mid range? Are there slump limitations with the battery powered creed?
I hope that one day all mixers will be front discharge makes things so much easier
That’s about all we see in the south
Is there any downside to using water reducer?
one thing i notice is that the east coast does NOT believe in front ready-mix trucks? here in the mid-west that's all we have front discharge ready mix trucks.
What slump is that?
Looks like an 8 inch.
That mud is flowing way too smooth.
boy that's nice and loose. I've been using "cement all" mixed to fluid consistency for some hard access void filling and rebarring and I can barely get it mixed before it starts firming up
That’s because it’s RapidSet and you’re not using the additional additive which slows the curing time
seems like the concrete is very wet compared to other concrete videos I've seen. Almost self leveling.
Good job as always.
these ppl making these comme ts about why is no1 pulling the wire up are killing me. its called radiant heat boys the wire just holds the pipe down
@@Alongfortheride693 wow
Wire is definitely under the pipes flat on the base if it’s tied to the pipes here and there why not just lay it over the pipes and let the concrete bind underneath.. genuine question
Dumb comment, the wire is supposed to be there for reinforcement and sitting on the bottom. There should be bar chairs under it, these guys are cowboys.
@@lachlanitis2311 nah man the wire is on there to hold down the pipe no reinforcement at all
@@GRUBB-MUDD wrong, that slab inspection would not be passed in Australia. We do things differently here, a lot different. While I will admit a lot of Americans finishing skills are excellent the prep work and screeding is abysmal.
Har far up in Maine are you? I noticed one of the concrete trucks said Bangor, I have a place near Bangor and may need some concrete work coming up.
Mike, what’s your favorite overlay product? I need to skim coat a step about .5” thick
RapidSet Mortar Mix. But it’s a little pricey
Looks too wet to me, but Mike knows what he’s doing. Maybe it’s fine because it’s such a thick slab?
Man that looks extra runny
Nice one!
It’s water reducer people it literally let you pour wet makes it easier to work
Why is everyone screwing over how wet it is? Hand screeding 4-6" slump the other day blowing out my arse this looks way easier to work.. BTW what would happens if it didnt have the plaz but was still that wet?
Dam that's wet my guy.....
It's supposed to be!
Why is no one pulling up the wire?
The wire is to keep the radiant heat tube in place, not so much for reinforcement.
20 years jail time for not pulling wire 🤷🏻♂️😂
@@tylerlumley1152 Wrong channel. 😁
How disappointing, 4 missed chances to slide down the chute. Would a radio headset with the driver make chute positioning easier?
Hand signals work fine, no need to bring electronics into this
No rebar?
He put it in around the perimeter where the walls will be
I see now why he got you to do it. All that plumbing looks like a pain in the ass
Know your using high range water reducer but that concrete is way too wet. Giver her another drink!
No footing the reinforce wire flush to floor rebar not tied up, to each his own, guessing owner wants it that way.
Irresponsible concreting tbh, mesh needs to be in in the slab, not on the bottom doing nothing. Pure laziness.
I am also confused as to how there is no footing below the frost line ??
2” of foam deters 2’ of frost, the wire is to tie the heat tubes down, and once the heat is turned on you don’t have to worry about frost, not laziness, it’s how it’s specked out, and it’s a heated slab, so you don’t need a footing, and haunched slabs are 50/50 up here, but definitely not necessary in this case. There’s your free education about “concreting”