after part A and Part B dries up. Which sealer and stain do you use and how many coats of each to achieve the natural wood look? Could you also do a tutorial on Stair handrail, banister, and stair treads?
Hello Jing - To get the "freshly sanded' look on a red oak floor (after applying Bona Red Out), we'd first apply 1-2 coats of Bona NaturalSeal (depending on your application rate and desired level of white underneath), followed by 2 coats of Bona Traffic HD RAW. This would give you the flattest sheen level and most natural look (like there's nothing on the floor).
@@BonaProfessional Thank you. If I were happy with the looks after Bona Red Out, can I apply 2 coats of Bona Traffic HD directly? Or 1 coat of sealer is a must?
@@jingwang9113 A coat of stain or sealer is still required as the Red Out has no sealing qualities. If you applied Traffic HD directly, you'd greatly increase the chances of side-bonding (gluing the boards together) due to the bonding strength of waterborne finishes. Depending on what look you're after, typically we'd see DriFast Stain applied (also seals the floor), and or a coat of NaturalSeal (for a whiter look) or IntenseSeal (more natural look) applied prior to top-coating with Traffic HD. Hope that helps!
Agreed AMHF! Bona Red Out gives the professional a lot of flexibility to create different looks for their customers - and all with the natural beauty of red oak!
I don’t see anywhere here in the this video the emphasis on part A should be still wet when you apply part B. In the short form video, part A is dry before part B is applied. Unfortunately, after the fact, I read the bottle closer and it says to apply B while A still wet for better results. I wish this was a one step system to avoid the scenario of not getting good or better results as a result of that oversight. I was so worried about crossing the two during application that I didn’t register that it should be applied simultaneously, which isn’t apparent in either short or long video. Is this a correct take on the use of this A:B system?
Hi @Knowledge_Wisdom_Truth - Part A shouldn't still be wet, but still damp is recommended for best results with a single coat. Some prefer to let it dry all the way before applying Part B, but as stated on the label directions you'll get the best reaction by applying Part B while Part A is still damp (10-15 minutes of dry time). You can see at about 08:50 on the video that the floor is still wet in spots before we apply Part B. We'll usually apply Part A to a room and then apply Part B before moving to the next room, applying Part A and then Part B in succession. If you didn't quite get the desired results, you can always reapply the system without resanding. Hope that helps.
Hi @CheeseBae - Yep, this product really seems to have filled a need out there given the popularity of the white oak look; the price (as you mentioned) of red vs. white; and the abundance of already installed red oak out in the market. All great reasons for this Red Out solution!
Hello @teamriggs6325 - Each gallon set (A/B) should provide the proper reaction over about 450-650 square feet; depending on the preparation and condition of the flooring, environmental conditions, as well as application tools and techniques.
Hi Marcin - If by applicator, you mean a t-bar, then "no". You really don't want large puddles of Red Out on the floor (it will quickly go right down the board seams, possibly causing issues under the floor), so applying with a roller is really the only way to safely apply this product. Hope that helps.
And if your ratios are off and the stain, sealer, and finish fail over your homemade brew, then please call @TryDiy to cover your sand & refinish costs. It's not that easy when it comes to the sweet art of chemistry and R&D. Good Luck!
Haven't found an answer about if we could use this product on ceiling beams that are up and fixed in place already. I imagine it might be too difficult to apply? Could you recommend what to use to apply the product? (Douglas Fir beams)
Would not recommend spraying either Bona Red Out Part A or Part B due to safety concerns with mist getting in your eyes and on your skin, etc. The best application would probably be to brush on several then coats of Parts A and B, letting each set fully dry in between until you get the color results that you're after. Spread plastic on the floor or whatever is underneath to protect from dripping. We only test on flooring, so this is just a best guess. Hope it helps and best of luck with your project.
I’m doing white oak cabinetry. Client dislikes the light pink tones in some of the wood. Much of the wood is veneered MDF. Can I use this to eliminate that? If so, how? What will it do to the rest of the wood? How similar is this to a 2 part bleach? What are some pitfalls I should look out for?
Hi @Jesters_Thorny_Crown - Bona Red Out is probably not a product that you'll want to use on veneer, as the Red Out process can introduce a lot of moisture to the wood surface and would likely result in the veneer swelling and possibly delaminating.
Can this be applied over a red oak/ white oak mixed floor? I just installed white oak and realized the prefinished existing was a mix and the homeowners of course want to go clear which im all for but worried about the drastic change. Even thought about just naturalseal as it keeps everything toned down well
Hi @Tyler-oh1rt - Yes, that would be a great scenario for using Bona Red Out, to neutralize the pink/red from the red oak in the mix, to better blend with the white oak, giving the entire floor a more consistent color and look. While you'll see some color changes on the white oak during the process, the color of that species will not be changed when the stain/sealer/finish is applied, as it only targets the pink/red colors in any species. Hope that helps and thanks for the question!
Hi @anaandrea7580 - While it may have an effect on other colors present in other species of wood, it's formulated to lighten the reds/pinks found in red oak, American cherry, Brazilian cherry, etc. We have heard of it being used on furniture, though you may have to apply a number of thin coats, with full drying between to judge the progress, to avoid the drips and runs that may occur if not working on a flat, horizontal surface. Hope that helps answer your questions. Cheers!
Thank you! If I wanted to put Bona Nordic seal after would that be good or it's either you apply red out or nordic seal? Also, do you recommend matte or satin finish
Hi @katerinastylianesis7392 - Wanting a white tone to the floor, without any red/pink casts coming thru, is exactly why we developed Bona Red Out; so the application of NordicSeal would be appropriate. I'd suggest going with 1-2 coats of NaturalSeal vs. NordicSeal so that you can build the white tone you're after slowly. Once it's too white, it's hard to go back (without sanding); and we've found that 2 coats of NaturalSeal usually hits the sweet spot for what folks are looking for (and the second coat really tends to even everything out). Hope that helps!
Hello, I am looking to apply this to a red oak floor that has bevelled edges. Is it suitable for this and is there any advice I need, I’m thinking specifically that the bevelled area may get more product in it and dry slower. Thanks
If the bevels are deep then your concerns might be very relevant in regard to too much product pooling in those areas and potentially causing issues (either with the color and or the wood itself). If they're just micro-bevels and or a slight eased edge, then we don't anticipate any issues; but you'll have to evaluate the actual situation (as we don't know the exact specs, etc) and make your decision from there. Hope that helps a bit....
Hi @melissareid640 - Yes, of course, you can definitely use NordicSeal on your red oak floor with or without using Bona Red Out prior. Thousands of floors have already been treated with this very system with beautiful results. Thanks for the question!
Hi @stephentresca3536 - Most likely because of the particular kind of red oak to which you applied the Red Out. Our results after applying Part 1 on red oak will typically include darker greens, browns, and some black; as the Part 1 is reacting with the tannins in the wood, to bring them out - so what you experienced would be considered normal. When Part 2 is then applied, it should reverse this color change by neutralizing those tannin reactions. What did you see or experience upon applying the Part 2 while Part 1 was still damp, according to the directions?
My question is, how much extra you need to charge the costumer to get it done because this process take long to finish and after that you will have to deal with the stain and everything else. And I used once and to be honest red oak is red oak period. It will look a bit better but still red.
Hi @lucasbelucci1922 - Sorry, but we can't talk pricing on this forum. The process length is the same as water-popping the floor, but Red Out does double duty - both water-popping and removing the red/pink hues from the floor. The test floors we used it on, exhibited some dramatic effects after following the directions. Hope that helps!
Advice from someone who just used it today... Move FAST if you are doing over 1000ft. Also, if you are doing cherry, bleach it. It worked great on the red oak but barely touched the cherry.
Hi WOLF - That might be why you didn't get the reaction you were looking for on the Cherry. Not that you need to work slow, but you need to work in manageable sections of alternating Step 1 and Step 2, applying the Step 2 while Step 1 is still wet/damp (but no standing puddles). These products only react while wet. That means working about 150-200 sq/feet with Step 1, then coming back and hitting that area with Step 2 before moving onto the next full section. Hope that helps next time.
This product worked very well but is a lot more difficult to use than shown in this video. Firstly - with Part A, move VERY quickly and try not to let any product puddle or splatter without quickly running over it with your roller a few times. I did sand, vacuum and tack cloth the surface before applying and was still left with the wood looking very dirty. I had to use a substantial amount of Part B neutralizer and had to run over the surface many times which eventually removed the dirty water from the wood which I had to soak up separately. I was surprised because I had tack clothed the surface that there still could be so many dark spots. I am very happy with how things turned out in the end but would advise that if you are seeing black splotches etc. to apply more of Part B and potentially try and soak up the "dirty liquid" and continue to apply Part B.
Hi Robert - Glad you had a positive experience overall with Bona Red Out but we'd have to disagree with your comments and suggestions above. The dirty look comes from not cleaning enough of the really fine sanding dust out of the wood grain, which is why we stress using a Tampico Brush so much. Even without access to one of those, the majority of the dirty look should go away with the application of Part B; though, yes, on some cuts of red oak you may need a second coat of B or even A/B to achieve the color you're after. Cheers!
Hello RM - No foreseeable issues (as Bona Craft OIl 2K works great over it), but we don't test for compatibility with Rubio so you'll have to run your system through to check for desired results.
Bona Red Out will work on any species to minimize red/pink hues present, including Brazilian cherry. The end coloration, when used correctly, should be a dark, chocolate brown. As always, it is recommended to do a test area to determine final results on the specific flooring on your job site. Hope that helps!
Hello FFO - I'd be a bit concerned about putting that much water-based product on a 1/8" veneer, as it might delaminate it or curl the edges, etc. If anything, you might try brushing thin, alternate coats of Step 1 and Step 2 over the surface. Might take 5-6 very thin applications to get the look you desire. Hope that helps.
Hi @nguyentuan1990 - Yes, you can apply Part A and leave it overnight but the reaction when you apply Part B won't be as great. Maximum color reduction is achieved when Part B is applied over Part A while it's still wet/damp. That's why the directions suggest applying the system one section at a time on about 100-150 sq/ft. Hope that helps!
Hi Christina - Yes, it could be used for any red oak surface (or other species as well), where you're trying to get rid of the red/pink undertones. The only watch outs we'd offer for using it on closet doors would be to 1) take them down and apply the Red Out with the doors in a flat, horizontal position (to avoid the product running down the surface), and 2) make sure the wood surface is thick enough to accept the Red Out (closet doors may be made out of a very thin veneer which might peel, curl, or become really rough with the application of a waterborne product). Hope that helps and good luck with your project!
I applied two coats of A and B to stair treads, and was happy with the results, but when I prepped for NaturalSeal, the pink in the wood came out again. I believe I over-sanded after Red Out. The NaturalSeal directions say to use a 150 grit before sealing, but the Red Out directions say to use 120 grit after. Which grit should I use after Red Out but before sealing with Natural Seal? Also, can I sand the NaturalSeal off and reapply Red Out Part A and B?
The directions on NaturalSeal are for raw, untreated wood, so follow the Red Out instructions but only abrade with an aggressive of a grit as necessary for the proper smoothing (only if needed). And, yes, you can sand off the NaturalSeal and reapply the Red Out A/B to retreat the treads. My guess for the return of some pink would be that you might have applied the Red Out too thin (if by hand on the treads), so maybe apply two full coats of A/B to make sure you neutralize as much of the red/pink as possible before coating with NaturalSeal. Hope that helps!
@@BonaProfessional thank you! I’m testing one tread now by sanding it down. How much time should pass between first full coat of a&b and second full coat of a&b?
@@scroggsvlogs7687 You should let the first coat of A/B fully dry (overnight) in order to judge whether you need a second coat or not. But, again, given your situation of hand-application on stair treads, I would think you'd want to do at least two full coats to maximize any red/pink coloration.
Hi! Can this be used on a cabinet. I am refinishing a cabinet and it definitely has a red hue which I do not want. Unfortunately, I do not know what kind wood it is. Thanks! 😊
Hi Crystal - While it can be used on any wood species where you're trying to subdue red coloration, the very thin consistency would make it very difficult to use on a cabinet (vertical surfaces), unless you're pulling them off the wall and orienting the working surfaces to a horizontal position. You can always give it a try, but would recommend applying multiple (very) thin coats of Part A to prevent runs and drips; then the same with Part B. Best of luck with your project!
I came to ask this as well. I wanted to try this product on a solid oak desk I have, I don't want to have to white wash it. So I was hoping this would work. Did you try it?
Hi! Two Questions: 1. Would you recommend patching with a white oak wood filler before or after applying Bona Red Out? 2. The white oak floors in my house are getting two coats of Bona Nordic Seal + 1 coat of Bona HD traffic Satin. Red Oak is getting 1 coat of Bona Red Out, but I am stuck on what seal to put next? Would Bona NordicSeal work on top to match? Thanks!
Hi Katie - Two answers 1. Yes, would recommend to fill with white oak filler (on a red oak floor) if you're using the Bona Red Out to get more of a overall white oak look. If the cracks, holes, and gaps are small, then it's o.k. if it was filled with red oak filler previously (or even this time); as we didn't see a glaring color difference in actual use. 2. This will have to be a job site decision by the professional completing the work on your floors. To match up the red and white oak, without staining, he might need to apply two coats of NordicSeal to the white oak. Next steps can be determined after the initial coat of NordicSeal on both (and understanding how each floor will color out thru oxidation and aging, etc); see how close they are and then go from there. Also might depend on the two floors proximity to each other. Are they touching at any point? Divided by a hallway or another room or feature strip, etc. Let your pro guide you. Hope those both help you with a successful project! Cheers!
@@BonaProfessional thank you! Nothing has been patched on the red oak yet. So should we patch before or after applying the red out? Can Bona NordicSeal be used over Bona Red out since it also has a lightening affect? Would that counteract the red out or simply lighten the floors further?
@@Kkatieavery Hi Katie - Yes, filler should be applied prior to the final sanding (and before the application of Bona Red Out). And, yes, NordicSeal can be used over Red Out and it would lighten the floors further. The purpose of Red Out is to minimize any red/pick hues coming through the NordicSeal from the red oak background, to keep your white tones whiter.
Hi Musik - Once Bona Red Out has been applied, it's best to let it dry overnight before the application of any stain, sealer or finish. You can also use a pinless moisture meter to take a baseline reading of the floor (before Red Out is applied) and then once you get back to within 1% of the baseline, then it's dry enough to coat. Hope that helps with your project! Cheers!
Hello Castles - You can, but the effect will be much less. The BIG key to using this product is to apply Step 2 while Step 1 is still wet/damp (no standing puddles); which means working the full system in 200-300 sq/ft sections throughout the floor - meaning, you apply Step 1 in sections for about 200 sq/ft, then the beginning of that area should be dry enough (but still wet/damp underneath) to start applying Step 2 to the same 200 sq/ft section. Repeat throughout the floor. Let it dry overnight (or until back to within 1% point of your baseline moisture content), without additional airflow (let it dry slowly and naturally), then apply your stain, sealer, or penetrating oil. The longer that Step 1 and 2 are wet and working together, the stronger neutralizing effect you'll achieve on the floor. Hope that makes sense and helps you understand the process a bit better. Cheers!
Hello @CheeseBae - Yep, you could use it on any wood-based product where you want to take out the red/pink undertones. One thing I'd be careful about on furniture, is the use of veneer products in that industry. The amount of water being applied when using the Red Out system might delaminate or buckle/warp a veneer. No problem with solid wood furniture, but sometimes it can be tough to tell what you're working with. Hope that helps!
Good to know. Any additional information I should know about concerning top coats? Is RedOut compatible with a wide variety of finishes?@@BonaProfessional
@@CheeseBae - We know that Red Out is compatible with all of our waterborne finishing systems, and our oil-modified poly as well (though we don't see why someone would use it with OMU, as that will turn the floor yellowish). As for competitive finishes, we're not sure as we only test within the Bona system.
If we want to buff the floor after to avoid the water popped look, this 1” thick red buffing pad you mentioned is it available in tool rental stores like Home Depot? I see they have red buffing pads but I want to be very specific in what I’m getting bc I don’t want to cause any damage. What type of buffing pad is this and are there multiple red buffing pads out there on the mkt or is red the standard for a specific abrading level?
Hi @omark7145 - Good question, so just be sure to specify that you want a 1" thick "buffing" pad and not an abrasive or scouring pad. A good reference would be a 3M 5100 series red pad. Hope that helps!
@@BonaProfessional it does thank you so much. Another question: if after the first application I notice a lot of brown spots i believe based off the video I can spot treat with step B via taping and then using a paintbrush over the brown/uneven colored boards. Can this be done even days later once the wood has dried? Or would I just need to do another full application of A and B?
@@omark7145 Yes, you could try and treat with an additional brush application of Step B, if you think they're missed spots. If you've got a lot of darker, reddish boards showing through, then it might be best to do a full application of Steps A/B again. Step B really works best when applied to Step A that is still damp (but not standing liquid). Good luck!
It’s just that it seems some boards are spotty with pools of brown left in some parts of the board and the rest lightened in our case specifically - might be something to do with the boards being old not sure
Hi Dan - Water-popping is a process that lots of contracts use before applying floor stain. You evenly apply water to the flooring surface (usually with a garden-type sprayer and smooth each section out with a cut-in pad or t-bar - then let it dry overnight. This will "pop" the hard grain in the flooring and allow it to accept more stain, which make the whole floor a darker version of that color and there will be less contrast between the hard and soft grain. Because Bona Red Out has quite a bit of water content, its application will water-pop the floor. If that's not the desired effect for the stain application to follow, then it can be smoothed back out using several methods as outlined in the video. Hope that helps!
Hi Ty - Nope, no dyes or pigments in Bona Red Out. It's a simply chemical reaction with the natural colors (red/pink) in red oak, to mute and or cancel them out so that they don't show thru your stain (especially the white and gray colors), making it appear and stain like a white oak floor. Hope that helps answer your question. Cheers!
Hi Johnny - Yes, typically the application of Part B will remove and or blend in any marks left from the application of Part A. If marks remain after the application of Part B (and given proper dry time); it may be necessary to do a second application of Part B, or a simple "rinse" process may also remove the marks. Hope that helps!
@@BonaProfessional could you walk me through the “rinse” process? Lots of drip marks and lap marks from when it was applied yesterday. I’m going to go over it with a sponge now before we try sanding it. Just need some direction, thank you. My flooring contractor has never used this before so there’s a big learning curve.
@@Kkatieavery Pretty easy. Put clean water in a bucket and use a clean squeegee sponge mop. Get some water in the mop (squeezed out a little - doesn't need to be sopping wet) and scrub a section of the floor (maybe 10-15sq/ft). Repeat. **Change out the water every room or every 100 sq/ft (otherwise, you're adding too much of the residue back on the floor). Let it dry - overnight or until you're back within 1% point of your baseline reading on a pinless moisture meter. Hope that's clear and helps!
Hi Americo - Do you mean the Red Brushes for the PowerScrubber? Either way, wouldn't recommend anything besides the Tampico Brush; so, if you don't have one then just vacuum very thoroughly with a horsehair floor tool (not a felt head). Need to try and get as much of the extra fine dust out of the grain pores and seams. Hope that helps!
Hey so the floor stills looks pinkish , question i had alot of green boars if i stain them the green wont pop out? And i also got very white spots probably small puddles from step 1 where left if i stain will the show?
Hey also after applying step 2 how many hours do i have to wait for staining, I finished this at 5am, now is 2pm same day and is already dry do i have to wait more time?
@@americoramos1616 The green boards will show thru the stain - sounds like you didn't apply enough Part B (which should drastically lighten the darker areas); and the white spots may show thru as well (those are typically caused be dust accumulating under the applicator, giving a greater reaction where they're grouped. Would recommend a 2nd coat of Part B, then once dried - perform a "rinse" with clean water and a sponge mop (scrubbing those white areas off); and important to change out the water every 150-200 sq/ft during the rinse. Would also suggest that you call your local Bona rep or our Tech Services line (800) 872-5515, as there might be some other factors to understand, but not efficient to do that through RUclips comments......Hope all that helps!
@@americoramos1616 Well, according to the directions you should let it dry overnight or until your moisture meter reading is back to the base reading you took before starting the Red Out application process. What was your base reading?
Bothering you again with another question. There are some areas with white lines and what looks like water drop dot marks. Do those areas need more of part A or B? And for the grey areas that means more part B, right?
Hi Katie - How long ago was the scrub completed? White lines along the board seams or cross-grain roller marks? Dots are probably water drop marks from the scrubbing that didn't receive another pass. Might be better for you to touch base with our technical department at (800) 872-5515; and they might need pics, etc. Best to have your contractor call them as they probably need more job site info than you might have the background to know/answer. Regards!
@@BonaProfessional cross grain roller marks, that didn’t all come out with a “wash”. I think I need to hand scrub these areas. Since they are white, applying more product will only make them whiter - correct? My contractor won’t call them, haha, but I might! Do you guys have a video of what different seals look like after using Red Out?
@@Kkatieavery Yes, I'd scrub them with a clean bucket of water and a new large sponge, if those are the only marks left on the floor. No video of what the different sealers might look like (as most people would apply a stain after the Red Out - because they're trying to get it to stain like white oak); plus, it depends on the particular characteristics of your wood, lighting, etc. Hope that all helps (and I did get a message that you called into the Tech line). Cheers!
@@BonaProfessional the problem is the red out lightened the floors too much where I don’t have a choice but to use a seal to bring the color back to match. Problem is the seals aren’t penetrating the wood now with the red out on top. I give up lol. Sanding them down and picking a sealer that is “close enough” to two coats of Nordic on the white oak.
@@Kkatieavery Sorry to hear that you're having to start over. Red Out shouldn't prevent the Sealer from penetrating, so not exactly sure what you mean by that. Sounds like you've got a really particular end in mind for this project, with a number of different variables that we weren't aware of - which is why we asked to have your contractor give us a call. Anyways, best of luck in getting what you're really looking for with this next resand.
This is not as east as water popping, that's a complete lie. If you have red oak deal with it. If someone wants you to use this, beware because you are probably creating a bad situation that has a lot of pitfalls, time and costs involved. I see nothing good coming from using this.
Hi @jdm4125 - It is just like water-popping if fully educated and understanding of the process prior to first application - otherwise, just like with any new product, it's a game of trial and error. Tens of thousands of square feet of red oak and other red-tinged species already treated with great success. Please reach out to your local Bona territory manager and or the Bona Tech and Training team if you still have questions about proper usage and application success.
Hi Jeremy - No, Bona Red Out is not bleach, but two separate chemical washes that specifically remove the pink/red hues from red oak and other species (without damaging the lignin like typical A/B wood bleach).
@@yourvidia5815 Actually, Bona Red Out sales are outpacing our ability to keep up with the demand - so looks like anything other than a failed product; because the product is delivering exactly what lots of Craftsmen and homeowners are looking for - "Take my existing red oak and make it look like white oak." Understanding what a "reactive" product might do to other wood/paint/metal components around the job site is an important part of using this product. So, no, you don't have to tape the entire house but understand your particular job site situation and what you might need to do to protect your customer's investment.
I tried this quickly on a section of floor that will be under the cabinets recently laid down but that hadn't been sanded yet. It immediately turned the floors very dirty looking and part B didn't take that much of it off. Lesson learned there and I see in the comment below why that would have happened. No worries though as it was able to sand out. I then tried it on a section of floor sanded and vac'd, no tampico brush, no tack cloth and the dirty look wasn't nearly as bad but still noticeable. I tried it again on a section that had been properly sanded and tacked cloth but no tampico brush because I didn't have one but I plan to order one this week. The floors are still coming out almost dirty looking. They're definitely not pink but not bright by any means. In the comments you say that you can apply a second coat of part B or try part A and part B again. I plan to wait a full 24 hours before repeating parts A and B again. I'd like to test each but if you're going to try the direction of Part A and two part B's how long should you wait in between adding the second coat of part B?
Hi @jasond585 - What species are you applying Bona Red Out on? Are you applying Part B while Part A is still damp? Definitely need to follow the directions (regarding sanding and prep of the floor) all the way through before application, in order to get desired results - even on your samples. Second coat of Part B should go on after the first coat has dried all the way (overnight), so that you can make the full assessment of whether just another coat of Part B needs to be applied, or another coat of the full system (A and B) needs to be applied. Hope that helps - and please call our Technical Services team at (800) 872-5515 if you have further questions. Thanks!
@@BonaProfessional Thank you for the quick response. I'm applying it to Red Oak and yes the part B is going down when part Part A is still wet. Your video above is super helpful, thank you for taking the time on that. Unfortunately without it even with proper sanding and a tack cloth there is too much residual dust that turns the wood a mildew / dirty color. It can actually be wiped clean for the most part with a wet cloth or as the person said below wiped up when your applying part B which is going to be tricky when trying to treat an entire floor. I think at the end of the day the tampico brush is going to make a big difference with this product to get the dust that I'm guessing is reacting and dirtying the surface before the red out as a chance to really soak in. I have a tampico brush on the way and remain hopeful that it's going to make all the difference.
Hi@@jasond585 - Absolutely, the Tampico Brush makes a huge difference in eliminating most of the ultra-fine dust which does tend to react more with the Red Out process. Applying Part A does produce a dramatic effect, pulling greens, browns, and blacks up from the wood; but then the Part B, if applied properly, should wash out and neutralize those colors, leaving you with a very light colored and even floor all the way across (shouldn't be any wiping off needed). Also, don't try to treat the whole house (not sure of your square footage) with Part A and then come back with Part B; but rather, only apply Part A to one room and then immediately coat that same room with Part B; then move on to the next room, hallway, etc. Hope this gives you some additional tips & tricks - and good luck with the rest of your project.
The one issue i had when applying this was in a spot where i had to go across the grain to work myself out of a room. I assumed it would be ok as i saw you did it in this video at the end by the wall which is exactly what i did. I was left with some streaks that you could tell were exactly from going across the grain. I ended up doing a quick sanding with 120 to even it out in that room. It still had the effect from the red out even after the sanding. Other wise no real issues applying. Part a reminds me alot of a tanic reaction caused by iron acetate but not quite as intense.
Hi Nick - Glad to hear you were able to remedy the cross-grain marks. They were most likely caused by fine dust built up in the applicator and then deposited cross grain. Might have been able to get rid of them by "rinsing" each room with clean water and a sponge mop, but given the depth of penetration of Red Out (due to extremely thin viscosity) it's understandable that you were able to lightly sand them out while retaining the full effect from Part A/B as well. Thanks for the feedback!
@@BonaProfessional ive gotta disagree with you on the dust theory. It was in the first room and it was only a 175 sq foot room. The floors were prepped extremely well. Vaccumed with a silicone tip with a freshly cleaned filter then cleaned twice with 2 fresh dust mops. I think it is just imperative that you never go across the grain with this product. After using it on 1100 sq ft thats the number one tip i can take away from it. I applied it to a small room this weekend and only applied with the grain and this time i used a cut in pad on a handle to smooth out the application after it was rolled on and it came out absolutely perfect. I wish i could post pictures here to show you the difference.
@@MrSliim280 Not a problem in disagreeing. Without seeing what marks you had and the other variables of the job site, completely shooting in the dark from my side. Always a best practice to not go across the grain. We didn't have any issues in the video that we shot, but doesn't mean that we wouldn't on another job or in another room. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Hi @samuelrobertson8354 - While we haven't officially tested Bona Red Out on CVG Cedar (too soft for flooring), it should work the same on any red/pink toned wood specie. Take a small board or section and do a test area to see if the results meet your needs.
Excellent instruction. This was a perfect video. Thorough.
Aloha!!! Glad it was helpful and hope you have many successful applications of this unique Bona product! Cheers!
after part A and Part B dries up. Which sealer and stain do you use and how many coats of each to achieve the natural wood look? Could you also do a tutorial on Stair handrail, banister, and stair treads?
Hello Jing - To get the "freshly sanded' look on a red oak floor (after applying Bona Red Out), we'd first apply 1-2 coats of Bona NaturalSeal (depending on your application rate and desired level of white underneath), followed by 2 coats of Bona Traffic HD RAW. This would give you the flattest sheen level and most natural look (like there's nothing on the floor).
@@BonaProfessional Thank you. If I were happy with the looks after Bona Red Out, can I apply 2 coats of Bona Traffic HD directly? Or 1 coat of sealer is a must?
@@jingwang9113 A coat of stain or sealer is still required as the Red Out has no sealing qualities. If you applied Traffic HD directly, you'd greatly increase the chances of side-bonding (gluing the boards together) due to the bonding strength of waterborne finishes. Depending on what look you're after, typically we'd see DriFast Stain applied (also seals the floor), and or a coat of NaturalSeal (for a whiter look) or IntenseSeal (more natural look) applied prior to top-coating with Traffic HD. Hope that helps!
Thx. That was very helpful.
I'm excited about this product! The contractors I've talked to who have played with it really like it. :) Let's use more red oak!
Agreed AMHF! Bona Red Out gives the professional a lot of flexibility to create different looks for their customers - and all with the natural beauty of red oak!
What about a soft bristle brush can it be use?
@@americoramos1616 See reply below. Use a Tampico or vacuum very very thoroughly.
how would this work on walnut floor?
I don’t see anywhere here in the this video the emphasis on part A should be still wet when you apply part B. In the short form video, part A is dry before part B is applied. Unfortunately, after the fact, I read the bottle closer and it says to apply B while A still wet for better results. I wish this was a one step system to avoid the scenario of not getting good or better results as a result of that oversight. I was so worried about crossing the two during application that I didn’t register that it should be applied simultaneously, which isn’t apparent in either short or long video. Is this a correct take on the use of this A:B system?
Hi @Knowledge_Wisdom_Truth - Part A shouldn't still be wet, but still damp is recommended for best results with a single coat. Some prefer to let it dry all the way before applying Part B, but as stated on the label directions you'll get the best reaction by applying Part B while Part A is still damp (10-15 minutes of dry time). You can see at about 08:50 on the video that the floor is still wet in spots before we apply Part B. We'll usually apply Part A to a room and then apply Part B before moving to the next room, applying Part A and then Part B in succession. If you didn't quite get the desired results, you can always reapply the system without resanding. Hope that helps.
Great solution given the price of white oak vs red oak these days.
Hi @CheeseBae - Yep, this product really seems to have filled a need out there given the popularity of the white oak look; the price (as you mentioned) of red vs. white; and the abundance of already installed red oak out in the market. All great reasons for this Red Out solution!
How much square footage does a gallon take you to get it fairly white?
Hello @teamriggs6325 - Each gallon set (A/B) should provide the proper reaction over about 450-650 square feet; depending on the preparation and condition of the flooring, environmental conditions, as well as application tools and techniques.
Can I apply this by applicator? Also old red oak can i use wood filler will there be any bad reaction? Thank you
Hi Marcin - If by applicator, you mean a t-bar, then "no". You really don't want large puddles of Red Out on the floor (it will quickly go right down the board seams, possibly causing issues under the floor), so applying with a roller is really the only way to safely apply this product. Hope that helps.
@@BonaProfessional Thank you.
Save your money just use calcium hydroxide part a and Hydrogen peroxide part b which are the main ingredients instead.
And if your ratios are off and the stain, sealer, and finish fail over your homemade brew, then please call @TryDiy to cover your sand & refinish costs. It's not that easy when it comes to the sweet art of chemistry and R&D. Good Luck!
Haven't found an answer about if we could use this product on ceiling beams that are up and fixed in place already. I imagine it might be too difficult to apply? Could you recommend what to use to apply the product? (Douglas Fir beams)
Would not recommend spraying either Bona Red Out Part A or Part B due to safety concerns with mist getting in your eyes and on your skin, etc. The best application would probably be to brush on several then coats of Parts A and B, letting each set fully dry in between until you get the color results that you're after. Spread plastic on the floor or whatever is underneath to protect from dripping. We only test on flooring, so this is just a best guess. Hope it helps and best of luck with your project.
I’m doing white oak cabinetry. Client dislikes the light pink tones in some of the wood. Much of the wood is veneered MDF. Can I use this to eliminate that? If so, how? What will it do to the rest of the wood? How similar is this to a 2 part bleach? What are some pitfalls I should look out for?
Hi @Jesters_Thorny_Crown - Bona Red Out is probably not a product that you'll want to use on veneer, as the Red Out process can introduce a lot of moisture to the wood surface and would likely result in the veneer swelling and possibly delaminating.
Can this be applied over a red oak/ white oak mixed floor? I just installed white oak and realized the prefinished existing was a mix and the homeowners of course want to go clear which im all for but worried about the drastic change. Even thought about just naturalseal as it keeps everything toned down well
Hi @Tyler-oh1rt - Yes, that would be a great scenario for using Bona Red Out, to neutralize the pink/red from the red oak in the mix, to better blend with the white oak, giving the entire floor a more consistent color and look. While you'll see some color changes on the white oak during the process, the color of that species will not be changed when the stain/sealer/finish is applied, as it only targets the pink/red colors in any species. Hope that helps and thanks for the question!
Can it be applied to lighten wood furniture? Will it bleach other kinds of wood or only red woods?
Hi @anaandrea7580 - While it may have an effect on other colors present in other species of wood, it's formulated to lighten the reds/pinks found in red oak, American cherry, Brazilian cherry, etc. We have heard of it being used on furniture, though you may have to apply a number of thin coats, with full drying between to judge the progress, to avoid the drips and runs that may occur if not working on a flat, horizontal surface. Hope that helps answer your questions. Cheers!
Thank you! If I wanted to put Bona Nordic seal after would that be good or it's either you apply red out or nordic seal? Also, do you recommend matte or satin finish
Hi @katerinastylianesis7392 - Wanting a white tone to the floor, without any red/pink casts coming thru, is exactly why we developed Bona Red Out; so the application of NordicSeal would be appropriate. I'd suggest going with 1-2 coats of NaturalSeal vs. NordicSeal so that you can build the white tone you're after slowly. Once it's too white, it's hard to go back (without sanding); and we've found that 2 coats of NaturalSeal usually hits the sweet spot for what folks are looking for (and the second coat really tends to even everything out). Hope that helps!
Hello, I am looking to apply this to a red oak floor that has bevelled edges. Is it suitable for this and is there any advice I need, I’m thinking specifically that the bevelled area may get more product in it and dry slower. Thanks
If the bevels are deep then your concerns might be very relevant in regard to too much product pooling in those areas and potentially causing issues (either with the color and or the wood itself). If they're just micro-bevels and or a slight eased edge, then we don't anticipate any issues; but you'll have to evaluate the actual situation (as we don't know the exact specs, etc) and make your decision from there. Hope that helps a bit....
is it okay to use the Bona NordicSeal to my red oak without Bona Red Out if I like the bright pinkish/red tone?
Hi @melissareid640 - Yes, of course, you can definitely use NordicSeal on your red oak floor with or without using Bona Red Out prior. Thousands of floors have already been treated with this very system with beautiful results. Thanks for the question!
When i used this, the wood turned black on part 1. How come yours didn't?
Hi @stephentresca3536 - Most likely because of the particular kind of red oak to which you applied the Red Out. Our results after applying Part 1 on red oak will typically include darker greens, browns, and some black; as the Part 1 is reacting with the tannins in the wood, to bring them out - so what you experienced would be considered normal. When Part 2 is then applied, it should reverse this color change by neutralizing those tannin reactions. What did you see or experience upon applying the Part 2 while Part 1 was still damp, according to the directions?
My question is, how much extra you need to charge the costumer to get it done because this process take long to finish and after that you will have to deal with the stain and everything else. And I used once and to be honest red oak is red oak period. It will look a bit better but still red.
Hi @lucasbelucci1922 - Sorry, but we can't talk pricing on this forum. The process length is the same as water-popping the floor, but Red Out does double duty - both water-popping and removing the red/pink hues from the floor. The test floors we used it on, exhibited some dramatic effects after following the directions. Hope that helps!
Advice from someone who just used it today... Move FAST if you are doing over 1000ft. Also, if you are doing cherry, bleach it. It worked great on the red oak but barely touched the cherry.
Hi WOLF - That might be why you didn't get the reaction you were looking for on the Cherry. Not that you need to work slow, but you need to work in manageable sections of alternating Step 1 and Step 2, applying the Step 2 while Step 1 is still wet/damp (but no standing puddles). These products only react while wet. That means working about 150-200 sq/feet with Step 1, then coming back and hitting that area with Step 2 before moving onto the next full section. Hope that helps next time.
This product worked very well but is a lot more difficult to use than shown in this video. Firstly - with Part A, move VERY quickly and try not to let any product puddle or splatter without quickly running over it with your roller a few times. I did sand, vacuum and tack cloth the surface before applying and was still left with the wood looking very dirty. I had to use a substantial amount of Part B neutralizer and had to run over the surface many times which eventually removed the dirty water from the wood which I had to soak up separately. I was surprised because I had tack clothed the surface that there still could be so many dark spots. I am very happy with how things turned out in the end but would advise that if you are seeing black splotches etc. to apply more of Part B and potentially try and soak up the "dirty liquid" and continue to apply Part B.
Hi Robert - Glad you had a positive experience overall with Bona Red Out but we'd have to disagree with your comments and suggestions above. The dirty look comes from not cleaning enough of the really fine sanding dust out of the wood grain, which is why we stress using a Tampico Brush so much. Even without access to one of those, the majority of the dirty look should go away with the application of Part B; though, yes, on some cuts of red oak you may need a second coat of B or even A/B to achieve the color you're after. Cheers!
Any issues you can foresee when using products like Rubio MC over Red Out?
Hello RM - No foreseeable issues (as Bona Craft OIl 2K works great over it), but we don't test for compatibility with Rubio so you'll have to run your system through to check for desired results.
Does this work on Brazilian cherry?
Bona Red Out will work on any species to minimize red/pink hues present, including Brazilian cherry. The end coloration, when used correctly, should be a dark, chocolate brown. As always, it is recommended to do a test area to determine final results on the specific flooring on your job site. Hope that helps!
Can I apply it over a 1/8" thick red oak veneer with a solid particle core interior door?
Hello FFO - I'd be a bit concerned about putting that much water-based product on a 1/8" veneer, as it might delaminate it or curl the edges, etc. If anything, you might try brushing thin, alternate coats of Step 1 and Step 2 over the surface. Might take 5-6 very thin applications to get the look you desire. Hope that helps.
can i apply part a and leave it overnight?
Hi @nguyentuan1990 - Yes, you can apply Part A and leave it overnight but the reaction when you apply Part B won't be as great. Maximum color reduction is achieved when Part B is applied over Part A while it's still wet/damp. That's why the directions suggest applying the system one section at a time on about 100-150 sq/ft. Hope that helps!
Can I use this for closet doors?
Hi Christina - Yes, it could be used for any red oak surface (or other species as well), where you're trying to get rid of the red/pink undertones. The only watch outs we'd offer for using it on closet doors would be to 1) take them down and apply the Red Out with the doors in a flat, horizontal position (to avoid the product running down the surface), and 2) make sure the wood surface is thick enough to accept the Red Out (closet doors may be made out of a very thin veneer which might peel, curl, or become really rough with the application of a waterborne product). Hope that helps and good luck with your project!
I applied two coats of A and B to stair treads, and was happy with the results, but when I prepped for NaturalSeal, the pink in the wood came out again. I believe I over-sanded after Red Out. The NaturalSeal directions say to use a 150 grit before sealing, but the Red Out directions say to use 120 grit after. Which grit should I use after Red Out but before sealing with Natural Seal?
Also, can I sand the NaturalSeal off and reapply Red Out Part A and B?
The directions on NaturalSeal are for raw, untreated wood, so follow the Red Out instructions but only abrade with an aggressive of a grit as necessary for the proper smoothing (only if needed). And, yes, you can sand off the NaturalSeal and reapply the Red Out A/B to retreat the treads. My guess for the return of some pink would be that you might have applied the Red Out too thin (if by hand on the treads), so maybe apply two full coats of A/B to make sure you neutralize as much of the red/pink as possible before coating with NaturalSeal. Hope that helps!
@@BonaProfessional thank you! I’m testing one tread now by sanding it down. How much time should pass between first full coat of a&b and second full coat of a&b?
@@scroggsvlogs7687 You should let the first coat of A/B fully dry (overnight) in order to judge whether you need a second coat or not. But, again, given your situation of hand-application on stair treads, I would think you'd want to do at least two full coats to maximize any red/pink coloration.
How well does this product work to tone down the red hue of old heart pine flooring?
Hi Mark - While it will have some effect, we're not sure to what extent as we haven't tested it on old heart pine flooring.
Hi! Can this be used on a cabinet. I am refinishing a cabinet and it definitely has a red hue which I do not want. Unfortunately, I do not know what kind wood it is. Thanks! 😊
Hi Crystal - While it can be used on any wood species where you're trying to subdue red coloration, the very thin consistency would make it very difficult to use on a cabinet (vertical surfaces), unless you're pulling them off the wall and orienting the working surfaces to a horizontal position. You can always give it a try, but would recommend applying multiple (very) thin coats of Part A to prevent runs and drips; then the same with Part B. Best of luck with your project!
I came to ask this as well. I wanted to try this product on a solid oak desk I have, I don't want to have to white wash it. So I was hoping this would work. Did you try it?
Hi! Two Questions:
1. Would you recommend patching with a white oak wood filler before or after applying Bona Red Out?
2. The white oak floors in my house are getting two coats of Bona Nordic Seal + 1 coat of Bona HD traffic Satin. Red Oak is getting 1 coat of Bona Red Out, but I am stuck on what seal to put next? Would Bona NordicSeal work on top to match? Thanks!
Hi Katie - Two answers
1. Yes, would recommend to fill with white oak filler (on a red oak floor) if you're using the Bona Red Out to get more of a overall white oak look. If the cracks, holes, and gaps are small, then it's o.k. if it was filled with red oak filler previously (or even this time); as we didn't see a glaring color difference in actual use.
2. This will have to be a job site decision by the professional completing the work on your floors. To match up the red and white oak, without staining, he might need to apply two coats of NordicSeal to the white oak. Next steps can be determined after the initial coat of NordicSeal on both (and understanding how each floor will color out thru oxidation and aging, etc); see how close they are and then go from there. Also might depend on the two floors proximity to each other. Are they touching at any point? Divided by a hallway or another room or feature strip, etc. Let your pro guide you.
Hope those both help you with a successful project! Cheers!
@@BonaProfessional thank you! Nothing has been patched on the red oak yet. So should we patch before or after applying the red out? Can Bona NordicSeal be used over Bona Red out since it also has a lightening affect? Would that counteract the red out or simply lighten the floors further?
@@Kkatieavery Hi Katie - Yes, filler should be applied prior to the final sanding (and before the application of Bona Red Out). And, yes, NordicSeal can be used over Red Out and it would lighten the floors further. The purpose of Red Out is to minimize any red/pick hues coming through the NordicSeal from the red oak background, to keep your white tones whiter.
Once you applied this product on the wood floor how soon could I stain or do a natural varnish oil and water varnish??
Hi Musik - Once Bona Red Out has been applied, it's best to let it dry overnight before the application of any stain, sealer or finish. You can also use a pinless moisture meter to take a baseline reading of the floor (before Red Out is applied) and then once you get back to within 1% of the baseline, then it's dry enough to coat. Hope that helps with your project! Cheers!
@@BonaProfessional yes thank you
Can I wait until the next day to apply part b?
Hello Castles - You can, but the effect will be much less. The BIG key to using this product is to apply Step 2 while Step 1 is still wet/damp (no standing puddles); which means working the full system in 200-300 sq/ft sections throughout the floor - meaning, you apply Step 1 in sections for about 200 sq/ft, then the beginning of that area should be dry enough (but still wet/damp underneath) to start applying Step 2 to the same 200 sq/ft section. Repeat throughout the floor. Let it dry overnight (or until back to within 1% point of your baseline moisture content), without additional airflow (let it dry slowly and naturally), then apply your stain, sealer, or penetrating oil. The longer that Step 1 and 2 are wet and working together, the stronger neutralizing effect you'll achieve on the floor. Hope that makes sense and helps you understand the process a bit better. Cheers!
Can this product be used on furniture as well, such as a bookcase? Or is there a version of it for non-flooring projects?
Hello @CheeseBae - Yep, you could use it on any wood-based product where you want to take out the red/pink undertones. One thing I'd be careful about on furniture, is the use of veneer products in that industry. The amount of water being applied when using the Red Out system might delaminate or buckle/warp a veneer. No problem with solid wood furniture, but sometimes it can be tough to tell what you're working with. Hope that helps!
Good to know. Any additional information I should know about concerning top coats? Is RedOut compatible with a wide variety of finishes?@@BonaProfessional
@@CheeseBae - We know that Red Out is compatible with all of our waterborne finishing systems, and our oil-modified poly as well (though we don't see why someone would use it with OMU, as that will turn the floor yellowish). As for competitive finishes, we're not sure as we only test within the Bona system.
If we want to buff the floor after to avoid the water popped look, this 1” thick red buffing pad you mentioned is it available in tool rental stores like Home Depot? I see they have red buffing pads but I want to be very specific in what I’m getting bc I don’t want to cause any damage. What type of buffing pad is this and are there multiple red buffing pads out there on the mkt or is red the standard for a specific abrading level?
Hi @omark7145 - Good question, so just be sure to specify that you want a 1" thick "buffing" pad and not an abrasive or scouring pad. A good reference would be a 3M 5100 series red pad. Hope that helps!
@@BonaProfessional it does thank you so much. Another question: if after the first application I notice a lot of brown spots i believe based off the video I can spot treat with step B via taping and then using a paintbrush over the brown/uneven colored boards. Can this be done even days later once the wood has dried? Or would I just need to do another full application of A and B?
@@omark7145 Yes, you could try and treat with an additional brush application of Step B, if you think they're missed spots. If you've got a lot of darker, reddish boards showing through, then it might be best to do a full application of Steps A/B again. Step B really works best when applied to Step A that is still damp (but not standing liquid). Good luck!
It’s just that it seems some boards are spotty with pools of brown left in some parts of the board and the rest lightened in our case specifically - might be something to do with the boards being old not sure
What does "water-pop effect" mean?
Hi Dan - Water-popping is a process that lots of contracts use before applying floor stain. You evenly apply water to the flooring surface (usually with a garden-type sprayer and smooth each section out with a cut-in pad or t-bar - then let it dry overnight. This will "pop" the hard grain in the flooring and allow it to accept more stain, which make the whole floor a darker version of that color and there will be less contrast between the hard and soft grain.
Because Bona Red Out has quite a bit of water content, its application will water-pop the floor. If that's not the desired effect for the stain application to follow, then it can be smoothed back out using several methods as outlined in the video. Hope that helps!
@@BonaProfessional Thanks!
Does this have any dyes or pigments?
Hi Ty - Nope, no dyes or pigments in Bona Red Out. It's a simply chemical reaction with the natural colors (red/pink) in red oak, to mute and or cancel them out so that they don't show thru your stain (especially the white and gray colors), making it appear and stain like a white oak floor. Hope that helps answer your question. Cheers!
@@BonaProfessional very helpful, thank you!
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it, Chris!
What should you do if you leave behind any lap marks or drops when moving from bucket to surface from part A, will part B take them away?
Hi Johnny - Yes, typically the application of Part B will remove and or blend in any marks left from the application of Part A. If marks remain after the application of Part B (and given proper dry time); it may be necessary to do a second application of Part B, or a simple "rinse" process may also remove the marks. Hope that helps!
@@BonaProfessional could you walk me through the “rinse” process? Lots of drip marks and lap marks from when it was applied yesterday. I’m going to go over it with a sponge now before we try sanding it. Just need some direction, thank you. My flooring contractor has never used this before so there’s a big learning curve.
@@Kkatieavery Pretty easy. Put clean water in a bucket and use a clean squeegee sponge mop. Get some water in the mop (squeezed out a little - doesn't need to be sopping wet) and scrub a section of the floor (maybe 10-15sq/ft). Repeat. **Change out the water every room or every 100 sq/ft (otherwise, you're adding too much of the residue back on the floor). Let it dry - overnight or until you're back within 1% point of your baseline reading on a pinless moisture meter. Hope that's clear and helps!
@@BonaProfessional perfect, you are so helpful!
Hey i do not have a tampico brush can i use a red brush instead
Hi Americo - Do you mean the Red Brushes for the PowerScrubber? Either way, wouldn't recommend anything besides the Tampico Brush; so, if you don't have one then just vacuum very thoroughly with a horsehair floor tool (not a felt head). Need to try and get as much of the extra fine dust out of the grain pores and seams. Hope that helps!
Hey so the floor stills looks pinkish , question i had alot of green boars if i stain them the green wont pop out?
And i also got very white spots probably small puddles from step 1 where left if i stain will the show?
Hey also after applying step 2 how many hours do i have to wait for staining,
I finished this at 5am, now is 2pm same day and is already dry do i have to wait more time?
@@americoramos1616 The green boards will show thru the stain - sounds like you didn't apply enough Part B (which should drastically lighten the darker areas); and the white spots may show thru as well (those are typically caused be dust accumulating under the applicator, giving a greater reaction where they're grouped. Would recommend a 2nd coat of Part B, then once dried - perform a "rinse" with clean water and a sponge mop (scrubbing those white areas off); and important to change out the water every 150-200 sq/ft during the rinse. Would also suggest that you call your local Bona rep or our Tech Services line (800) 872-5515, as there might be some other factors to understand, but not efficient to do that through RUclips comments......Hope all that helps!
@@americoramos1616 Well, according to the directions you should let it dry overnight or until your moisture meter reading is back to the base reading you took before starting the Red Out application process. What was your base reading?
Bothering you again with another question. There are some areas with white lines and what looks like water drop dot marks. Do those areas need more of part A or B? And for the grey areas that means more part B, right?
Hi Katie - How long ago was the scrub completed? White lines along the board seams or cross-grain roller marks? Dots are probably water drop marks from the scrubbing that didn't receive another pass. Might be better for you to touch base with our technical department at (800) 872-5515; and they might need pics, etc. Best to have your contractor call them as they probably need more job site info than you might have the background to know/answer. Regards!
@@BonaProfessional cross grain roller marks, that didn’t all come out with a “wash”. I think I need to hand scrub these areas. Since they are white, applying more product will only make them whiter - correct? My contractor won’t call them, haha, but I might! Do you guys have a video of what different seals look like after using Red Out?
@@Kkatieavery Yes, I'd scrub them with a clean bucket of water and a new large sponge, if those are the only marks left on the floor. No video of what the different sealers might look like (as most people would apply a stain after the Red Out - because they're trying to get it to stain like white oak); plus, it depends on the particular characteristics of your wood, lighting, etc. Hope that all helps (and I did get a message that you called into the Tech line). Cheers!
@@BonaProfessional the problem is the red out lightened the floors too much where I don’t have a choice but to use a seal to bring the color back to match. Problem is the seals aren’t penetrating the wood now with the red out on top. I give up lol. Sanding them down and picking a sealer that is “close enough” to two coats of Nordic on the white oak.
@@Kkatieavery Sorry to hear that you're having to start over. Red Out shouldn't prevent the Sealer from penetrating, so not exactly sure what you mean by that. Sounds like you've got a really particular end in mind for this project, with a number of different variables that we weren't aware of - which is why we asked to have your contractor give us a call. Anyways, best of luck in getting what you're really looking for with this next resand.
This is not as east as water popping, that's a complete lie. If you have red oak deal with it. If someone wants you to use this, beware because you are probably creating a bad situation that has a lot of pitfalls, time and costs involved. I see nothing good coming from using this.
Hi @jdm4125 - It is just like water-popping if fully educated and understanding of the process prior to first application - otherwise, just like with any new product, it's a game of trial and error. Tens of thousands of square feet of red oak and other red-tinged species already treated with great success. Please reach out to your local Bona territory manager and or the Bona Tech and Training team if you still have questions about proper usage and application success.
Right ? As someone who water pops a lot of floors this is nothing like water popping. My first go around ended in a resand, but we’re good now
What is water popping?
is this just wood bleach?
Hi Jeremy - No, Bona Red Out is not bleach, but two separate chemical washes that specifically remove the pink/red hues from red oak and other species (without damaging the lignin like typical A/B wood bleach).
Lol so we have to tape the entire house around? I love Bona products but sounds like a failure product
@@yourvidia5815 Actually, Bona Red Out sales are outpacing our ability to keep up with the demand - so looks like anything other than a failed product; because the product is delivering exactly what lots of Craftsmen and homeowners are looking for - "Take my existing red oak and make it look like white oak." Understanding what a "reactive" product might do to other wood/paint/metal components around the job site is an important part of using this product. So, no, you don't have to tape the entire house but understand your particular job site situation and what you might need to do to protect your customer's investment.
I tried this quickly on a section of floor that will be under the cabinets recently laid down but that hadn't been sanded yet. It immediately turned the floors very dirty looking and part B didn't take that much of it off. Lesson learned there and I see in the comment below why that would have happened. No worries though as it was able to sand out. I then tried it on a section of floor sanded and vac'd, no tampico brush, no tack cloth and the dirty look wasn't nearly as bad but still noticeable. I tried it again on a section that had been properly sanded and tacked cloth but no tampico brush because I didn't have one but I plan to order one this week. The floors are still coming out almost dirty looking. They're definitely not pink but not bright by any means. In the comments you say that you can apply a second coat of part B or try part A and part B again. I plan to wait a full 24 hours before repeating parts A and B again. I'd like to test each but if you're going to try the direction of Part A and two part B's how long should you wait in between adding the second coat of part B?
Hi @jasond585 - What species are you applying Bona Red Out on? Are you applying Part B while Part A is still damp? Definitely need to follow the directions (regarding sanding and prep of the floor) all the way through before application, in order to get desired results - even on your samples. Second coat of Part B should go on after the first coat has dried all the way (overnight), so that you can make the full assessment of whether just another coat of Part B needs to be applied, or another coat of the full system (A and B) needs to be applied. Hope that helps - and please call our Technical Services team at (800) 872-5515 if you have further questions. Thanks!
@@BonaProfessional Thank you for the quick response. I'm applying it to Red Oak and yes the part B is going down when part Part A is still wet. Your video above is super helpful, thank you for taking the time on that. Unfortunately without it even with proper sanding and a tack cloth there is too much residual dust that turns the wood a mildew / dirty color. It can actually be wiped clean for the most part with a wet cloth or as the person said below wiped up when your applying part B which is going to be tricky when trying to treat an entire floor. I think at the end of the day the tampico brush is going to make a big difference with this product to get the dust that I'm guessing is reacting and dirtying the surface before the red out as a chance to really soak in. I have a tampico brush on the way and remain hopeful that it's going to make all the difference.
Hi@@jasond585 - Absolutely, the Tampico Brush makes a huge difference in eliminating most of the ultra-fine dust which does tend to react more with the Red Out process. Applying Part A does produce a dramatic effect, pulling greens, browns, and blacks up from the wood; but then the Part B, if applied properly, should wash out and neutralize those colors, leaving you with a very light colored and even floor all the way across (shouldn't be any wiping off needed). Also, don't try to treat the whole house (not sure of your square footage) with Part A and then come back with Part B; but rather, only apply Part A to one room and then immediately coat that same room with Part B; then move on to the next room, hallway, etc. Hope this gives you some additional tips & tricks - and good luck with the rest of your project.
The one issue i had when applying this was in a spot where i had to go across the grain to work myself out of a room. I assumed it would be ok as i saw you did it in this video at the end by the wall which is exactly what i did. I was left with some streaks that you could tell were exactly from going across the grain. I ended up doing a quick sanding with 120 to even it out in that room. It still had the effect from the red out even after the sanding. Other wise no real issues applying. Part a reminds me alot of a tanic reaction caused by iron acetate but not quite as intense.
Hi Nick - Glad to hear you were able to remedy the cross-grain marks. They were most likely caused by fine dust built up in the applicator and then deposited cross grain. Might have been able to get rid of them by "rinsing" each room with clean water and a sponge mop, but given the depth of penetration of Red Out (due to extremely thin viscosity) it's understandable that you were able to lightly sand them out while retaining the full effect from Part A/B as well. Thanks for the feedback!
@@BonaProfessional ive gotta disagree with you on the dust theory. It was in the first room and it was only a 175 sq foot room. The floors were prepped extremely well. Vaccumed with a silicone tip with a freshly cleaned filter then cleaned twice with 2 fresh dust mops. I think it is just imperative that you never go across the grain with this product. After using it on 1100 sq ft thats the number one tip i can take away from it. I applied it to a small room this weekend and only applied with the grain and this time i used a cut in pad on a handle to smooth out the application after it was rolled on and it came out absolutely perfect. I wish i could post pictures here to show you the difference.
@@MrSliim280 Not a problem in disagreeing. Without seeing what marks you had and the other variables of the job site, completely shooting in the dark from my side. Always a best practice to not go across the grain. We didn't have any issues in the video that we shot, but doesn't mean that we wouldn't on another job or in another room. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Can you do this for a CVG Cedar Ceiling?
Hi @samuelrobertson8354 - While we haven't officially tested Bona Red Out on CVG Cedar (too soft for flooring), it should work the same on any red/pink toned wood specie. Take a small board or section and do a test area to see if the results meet your needs.