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Before J Star goes into the grading explanation, he does mention that he doesn’t want to make a big deal about this. Yes, I agree that J star has incredible knowledge around grading routes in the 9th grade, however, this is not to devalue Matty Hong’s achievement. Flex Luther didn’t get repeated for nearly 20 years despite many strong climbers trying it. Also, some significant holds broke in the crux making Matty’s ascent certainly more difficult than Tommy’s.
As far as I can tell Carlo never really gave it a grade, other than perhaps tacitly agreeing with Matty Hong's 9b suggestion. Given that neither of them have climbed many (any?) other 9bs I think J Star's opinion is the most valid one
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We think route grades should be reevaluated often... its frustrating when a 5.9 feels like a 5.7 at one crag and a 5.11 at another...
Before J Star goes into the grading explanation, he does mention that he doesn’t want to make a big deal about this. Yes, I agree that J star has incredible knowledge around grading routes in the 9th grade, however, this is not to devalue Matty Hong’s achievement. Flex Luther didn’t get repeated for nearly 20 years despite many strong climbers trying it. Also, some significant holds broke in the crux making Matty’s ascent certainly more difficult than Tommy’s.
Sooooooooo, he thinks Tommy's original proposal of 5.15a...
We have 2 5.15a and 2 5.15b
Is Flex Luther the first 5.15a/b?
As far as I can tell Carlo never really gave it a grade, other than perhaps tacitly agreeing with Matty Hong's 9b suggestion. Given that neither of them have climbed many (any?) other 9bs I think J Star's opinion is the most valid one
@@aidanjohnson7571 good point.