Great review Michaela. I love how Creality has really risen to the challenge of the next gen printers, good for everybody. Also thank you so much for choosing my Pit Droid files to test it 🙂 Making it fit the Ender 3 was a priority, I'm glad it still is an important machine.
It’s definitely on the agenda! I’ve got quite a few cool builds on the go that should be up soon but I’m still a bit limited until the weather warms up and can more easily finish larger pieces outside.
I got my first 3d printer almost a year ago. I got an Ender3 S1 Pro. I've got nothing to compare it with, but looking at the results from other people. I chose well. My results are considerably better.
A bed slinger with 300x300xx250 for under $300 would change the world. Ugh, why is it only 220x220x220…. Its just the rail lengths…. They should add a filament runout, and bigger bed. Everything else, auto leveling, etc is good to go.
Hopefully that becomes a reality soon. It’s the larger bed itself that eats up most of the cost between the heating component(s), plate, etc. Plus the possible extra frame bracings that should be considered when slinging around a larger, heavier bed. This machine does have a filament runout sensor.
@@MMsPropShop ah yes! Forgot about that apologies, I wanted sometime to go along side my P1S so looked at that the xmax3 & comgrow T500 as its 500 cubed. So for R2D2 as its the only one atm to be able to do it as its 490mm until the orangestorm gigacube!
@RathOX no worries! There are way too many printers to keep track of these days lol I was so tempted by the t500 but I figured I could live with printing droid domes in multi pieces seeing as that’s really the only reason I’d ever seek out owning a 500mm+ printer.
I'm new in the 3d printing world and I'm studying as much as possible, do you have any cons or flaws you noticed so far about the ender 3 v3 se? Ty in advance
I like the review, especially discussing the technical aspects, use, and overall print quality... (even if you used "literally", literally far too often)
One thing about this Printers first: The Ender 3 V3 Series are good Bedslingers. Don't touch an Ender 3V2 or an other V-Roller Printer. The biggest Flaw of this Printers are the Bearings for the Bed. The Ender 3 V3 Series uses Rails, which is realy great. Two Rails two thirds apart is a very solid base. Prusa i3 and Clones uses Linear Bearing which are are two thirds of the Bed lenght apart great base. Lot of 3D Printer below 300$ uses an Aluminium Profile Extrusion, 2 or 4cm wide in which V-Rollers run. This wear out and cause wobble. You can get those Bearings tightened, replace the rollers with high quality Bearings, then you get very high Quality prints. And you need to adjust everything after 10 hours or you get wobble. So the best Printer below 300$ USD is the Ender 3V3 KE. Don't buy older Ender 3 oder Ender 3V2 Models they need lot of maintenance to get decent prints. I would even go as far as to say don't buy an Anycubic FDM Printer, when you want something large, buy a Tronxy Core XY X5SA-400 Kit (which is slow) or a Creality CR-M4 or a Sovol SV08. But for every Bedslinger most important: The Bed needs to be on Linear Bearings or Linear Rails. There is now an alternative for it. For a long time those printers started at 300$ and good ones were at 400$. The Ender 3V3 KE is the Deal for 200$ ATM. Unless other Printer Makers follow it.
I just had them set to tree (auto) in OrcaSlicer. Everything else was its default but I eventually added 2 interface layers to try to have them a little easier to remove from the parts.
@hdjoe22 I got the wifi to sort of work. I don’t think I ever got it to go directly to the machine after being sliced, but I could save the gcode file on my computer and upload it to the printer from the device menu without issue.
@@MMsPropShop nice. I’ll give orca another try. Creality print is good, but I have issues with the tree supports… Great channel! I’ve enjoyed your build videos 👍🏼👍🏼
What about printing radio controlled model aircraft? tiny whoops frames, quadcopter frames, plane frames, etc. Does the slicer software work on Debian Workstation OS ( Linux ) ?
Unfortunately not other than it was due to some sort of error/bug in the printer profile or slicer. Hopefully it’s something that will be fixed in future firmware updates. Have you tried switching to a different printer profile in Orca? That’s what caused mine to appear, maybe it could also cause it to disappear in your case. I’ve been fine when sticking to the default PLA profile and making my adjustments there but that may not work for you since it’s such an unknown reason as to why the issue can suddenly appear.
would it be possible for you to do a video of your settings for your anycubic kobra 2 max? I loved the 7' drone you made with that one, but I can't get mine to get printing properly :c
I most likely won’t be making a dedicated video on the settings, but here is my PrusaSlicer settings profile that I used in that video: drive.google.com/file/d/1psqDVKy877Ip-p14llSahTuF0iTByX-X/view Depending on what type of filament you’re using you might need to adjust the temperature/cooling.
Nice video. I was about to get the Bamboo A1 - until the recall. Was gonna wait til the fix came then go for it. What are your thoughts on this vs the A1?
Haven’t tried the A1 so I can’t give any personal opinion on it. However, I only think Bambu Lab printers are worth it if you really want to multi colour print.
Yes! My QIDI printers are definitely my most used machines right now. Low hassle and amazing prints. There are some new parts/upgrades that you may need to request depending on what version of the x max you may be sent but QIDI is more than happy to supply the pieces free of charge.
Im wanting to get a V3 KE as my first printer but im unsure of the capabilities if it is a beginner printer. I would generally like to print with foaming lw pla for model aircraft parts but also use some kind of solic filament to print propellers and turboprops or impellers and centrifugal fans. Ive seen people do it on an flsun v400 and from what I've heard the v3k3 performs better from being newer, so i was just wondering if this is the printer for me or if i should look for another one
You would definitely be able to easily print LW PLA on this machine, but depending on what you might be looking into in terms of filament for durable propellers, etc. is where things could get a bit more complex. This printer is capable of printing loads of different filaments but some materials print better with an enclosure/hardened steel nozzle if it’s an abrasive type of filament. Both are things that you should be able to add to this machine if necessary though. A v400 also has a slightly larger print area so make sure that the pieces you’re wanting to make would fit on this machine.
The pieces would definitely fit in the ke (i just like how the v400 looks like some rocket launching station). But as long as the ke is capable of printing the shape and form of the propeller accurately, that's all i need. @@MMsPropShop
I unfortunately haven’t tried it so I can’t say either way. Vibrations don’t seem to be a big issue for the machine but something that would possibly make visible vibration artefacts worse would be the added weight of the spool on top of the printer. There are some great community prints out there that relocate the spool mount off to the side of the machine similar to how the Ender 3 V3 has it. All it will cost you is time and filament so you might want to start there.
Enjoyed your video but one of the biggest liabilities in buying a Creality is the customer service. I have owned a number of these including this machine but have moved away from this manufacturer for exactly this reason. The Customer Service stinks. Would you consider a followup video after you have had some experience with the printer? Thanks for listening.
Customer service not being what it should be is unfortunately something that most 3D printer companies suffer from. Obviously I hope that it’s something that will improve but ultimately that’s why support amongst peers is so important/valuable. I’m sure you’ll be seeing this machine in future videos! Been using it a lot for when I need something printed quick.
Thanks for your reply. I do agree that for the money, this machine is a really good buy but beginners need to be advised as to what their options are when the inevitable firmware or mechanical issue arises and what obstacles they might encounter. This probably exceeds your original intent for the video which is understandable for sure. You read a lot of frustration on a number of the FB blogs for 3D printers regarding customer issues etc. Anyway, thanks again. @@MMsPropShop
Great review Michaela.
I love how Creality has really risen to the challenge of the next gen printers, good for everybody.
Also thank you so much for choosing my Pit Droid files to test it 🙂
Making it fit the Ender 3 was a priority, I'm glad it still is an important machine.
Great review! Please post more post-processing videos - love watching the props going from raw print to finished product.
It’s definitely on the agenda! I’ve got quite a few cool builds on the go that should be up soon but I’m still a bit limited until the weather warms up and can more easily finish larger pieces outside.
I got my first 3d printer almost a year ago.
I got an Ender3 S1 Pro.
I've got nothing to compare it with, but looking at the results from other people.
I chose well. My results are considerably better.
Great video as usual!
For the lines mentioned, check yhe acceleration on the machine. Mine shipped at 3000nmms, but changing to 500mms fixed it
A bed slinger with 300x300xx250 for under $300 would change the world. Ugh, why is it only 220x220x220….
Its just the rail lengths….
They should add a filament runout, and bigger bed. Everything else, auto leveling, etc is good to go.
Hopefully that becomes a reality soon. It’s the larger bed itself that eats up most of the cost between the heating component(s), plate, etc. Plus the possible extra frame bracings that should be considered when slinging around a larger, heavier bed.
This machine does have a filament runout sensor.
Closest to that price but still costs much more is probs kobra 2 max & that’s 420x420x500
@RathOX there’s also the Kobra 2 Plus which is 320x320x400mm. Still over $400 but less expensive than a max.
@@MMsPropShop ah yes! Forgot about that apologies, I wanted sometime to go along side my P1S so looked at that the xmax3 & comgrow T500 as its 500 cubed. So for R2D2 as its the only one atm to be able to do it as its 490mm until the orangestorm gigacube!
@RathOX no worries! There are way too many printers to keep track of these days lol
I was so tempted by the t500 but I figured I could live with printing droid domes in multi pieces seeing as that’s really the only reason I’d ever seek out owning a 500mm+ printer.
I’ve got the Ender 3 v3 se and I love it
I'm new in the 3d printing world and I'm studying as much as possible, do you have any cons or flaws you noticed so far about the ender 3 v3 se? Ty in advance
I like the review, especially discussing the technical aspects, use, and overall print quality... (even if you used "literally", literally far too often)
I was hoping you’d do a review on this!!
Great video! I'm curious though, your walls on these prints, I've never changed any wall settings, what should I be looking for?
I only change the number of walls. I believe most slicers default to 2 walls but I never print anything with less than 4 walls for strength.
@@MMsPropShopthanks!!
super super review. you have major talent.!
One thing about this Printers first: The Ender 3 V3 Series are good Bedslingers. Don't touch an Ender 3V2 or an other V-Roller Printer.
The biggest Flaw of this Printers are the Bearings for the Bed. The Ender 3 V3 Series uses Rails, which is realy great. Two Rails two thirds apart is a very solid base.
Prusa i3 and Clones uses Linear Bearing which are are two thirds of the Bed lenght apart great base.
Lot of 3D Printer below 300$ uses an Aluminium Profile Extrusion, 2 or 4cm wide in which V-Rollers run. This wear out and cause wobble.
You can get those Bearings tightened, replace the rollers with high quality Bearings, then you get very high Quality prints. And you need to adjust everything after 10 hours or you get wobble.
So the best Printer below 300$ USD is the Ender 3V3 KE.
Don't buy older Ender 3 oder Ender 3V2 Models they need lot of maintenance to get decent prints. I would even go as far as to say don't buy an Anycubic FDM Printer, when you want something large, buy a Tronxy Core XY X5SA-400 Kit (which is slow) or a Creality CR-M4 or a Sovol SV08. But for every Bedslinger most important: The Bed needs to be on Linear Bearings or Linear Rails. There is now an alternative for it. For a long time those printers started at 300$ and good ones were at 400$. The Ender 3V3 KE is the Deal for 200$ ATM. Unless other Printer Makers follow it.
What are the Slicer Settings for your supports please? Great video, thank you kindly.
I just had them set to tree (auto) in OrcaSlicer. Everything else was its default but I eventually added 2 interface layers to try to have them a little easier to remove from the parts.
Thank you kindly@@MMsPropShop
@@MMsPropShopin orca, were you able to configure WiFi printing or just usb transfers?
@hdjoe22 I got the wifi to sort of work. I don’t think I ever got it to go directly to the machine after being sliced, but I could save the gcode file on my computer and upload it to the printer from the device menu without issue.
@@MMsPropShop nice. I’ll give orca another try. Creality print is good, but I have issues with the tree supports…
Great channel! I’ve enjoyed your build videos 👍🏼👍🏼
What about printing radio controlled model aircraft? tiny whoops frames, quadcopter frames, plane frames, etc.
Does the slicer software work on Debian Workstation OS ( Linux ) ?
Great in depth review. Did you ever figure out what was causing those visual artifacts? I have the same issue, also using Orca slicer
Unfortunately not other than it was due to some sort of error/bug in the printer profile or slicer. Hopefully it’s something that will be fixed in future firmware updates. Have you tried switching to a different printer profile in Orca? That’s what caused mine to appear, maybe it could also cause it to disappear in your case. I’ve been fine when sticking to the default PLA profile and making my adjustments there but that may not work for you since it’s such an unknown reason as to why the issue can suddenly appear.
would it be possible for you to do a video of your settings for your anycubic kobra 2 max? I loved the 7' drone you made with that one, but I can't get mine to get printing properly :c
I most likely won’t be making a dedicated video on the settings, but here is my PrusaSlicer settings profile that I used in that video: drive.google.com/file/d/1psqDVKy877Ip-p14llSahTuF0iTByX-X/view
Depending on what type of filament you’re using you might need to adjust the temperature/cooling.
@@MMsPropShop This is more than helpful! Thank you! I love your videos
Seems like the same feature set and price point as the Sovol SV07 I've had for about a year now.
Nice video. I was about to get the Bamboo A1 - until the recall. Was gonna wait til the fix came then go for it. What are your thoughts on this vs the A1?
Haven’t tried the A1 so I can’t give any personal opinion on it. However, I only think Bambu Lab printers are worth it if you really want to multi colour print.
I'd still wait for the A1.
Where did you get the files for the helmet?
I just got this printer to replace my Anycubic Mega S which I loved, but it's getting a little old.
I didn't know what I was missing out on.
Are you still loving your qidi x max 3? I have a Bambu X1C but I’m tempted to buy an c max 3 for the build volume.
Yes! My QIDI printers are definitely my most used machines right now. Low hassle and amazing prints.
There are some new parts/upgrades that you may need to request depending on what version of the x max you may be sent but QIDI is more than happy to supply the pieces free of charge.
Im wanting to get a V3 KE as my first printer but im unsure of the capabilities if it is a beginner printer. I would generally like to print with foaming lw pla for model aircraft parts but also use some kind of solic filament to print propellers and turboprops or impellers and centrifugal fans. Ive seen people do it on an flsun v400 and from what I've heard the v3k3 performs better from being newer, so i was just wondering if this is the printer for me or if i should look for another one
You would definitely be able to easily print LW PLA on this machine, but depending on what you might be looking into in terms of filament for durable propellers, etc. is where things could get a bit more complex. This printer is capable of printing loads of different filaments but some materials print better with an enclosure/hardened steel nozzle if it’s an abrasive type of filament. Both are things that you should be able to add to this machine if necessary though. A v400 also has a slightly larger print area so make sure that the pieces you’re wanting to make would fit on this machine.
The pieces would definitely fit in the ke (i just like how the v400 looks like some rocket launching station). But as long as the ke is capable of printing the shape and form of the propeller accurately, that's all i need. @@MMsPropShop
thank you for the video. :)
Would you suggest to buy the vibration sensor when buying th printer?
I unfortunately haven’t tried it so I can’t say either way. Vibrations don’t seem to be a big issue for the machine but something that would possibly make visible vibration artefacts worse would be the added weight of the spool on top of the printer. There are some great community prints out there that relocate the spool mount off to the side of the machine similar to how the Ender 3 V3 has it. All it will cost you is time and filament so you might want to start there.
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Prusa printers way better.
Enjoyed your video but one of the biggest liabilities in buying a Creality is the customer service. I have owned a number of these including this machine but have moved away from this manufacturer for exactly this reason. The Customer Service stinks. Would you consider a followup video after you have had some experience with the printer? Thanks for listening.
Customer service not being what it should be is unfortunately something that most 3D printer companies suffer from. Obviously I hope that it’s something that will improve but ultimately that’s why support amongst peers is so important/valuable.
I’m sure you’ll be seeing this machine in future videos! Been using it a lot for when I need something printed quick.
Thanks for your reply. I do agree that for the money, this machine is a really good buy but beginners need to be advised as to what their options are when the inevitable firmware or mechanical issue arises and what obstacles they might encounter. This probably exceeds your original intent for the video which is understandable for sure. You read a lot of frustration on a number of the FB blogs for 3D printers regarding customer issues etc. Anyway, thanks again. @@MMsPropShop