Hey, Mark- on flattops I push the ball end halfway into the bridge and then push it in the rest of the way using the peg, then tug on the string to make sure the ball is seated up against the top. At the headstock end I stretch the string to the next tuner, make a right angle bend and cut it off leaving a half inch. This avoids the extra 6" of strings getting your way. You can still use tuner spacing for the D&G strings. Basically you're using the space between tuners as a measuring device to get equal winds on each string, about 3. After it's strung, a final trim on the string ends. I've changed strings 10 minutes before a show, 3 tugs & re-tunings and good to go. Rocket surgery 101. I'm wondering if you still have that crappy little lap/pedal steel I built out of a 2X8. If so, that set of Schaller tuners on it might be kind of rare parts. I got them as NOS parts somewhere in the early 80s (guitar show?) in the original bubble pack. Apparently when Fender changed their tuners from Klusons in the late '60s to the rhomboid-shaped 'F' ones it was Schaller who supplied them. I have NEVER seen another set like the ones you have. FYI, I used it on 'Your Cheating Heart" Jethros recording. It ain't bad, especially in that context. If you ever wondered about the tuning, it was a B triad over an E triad. Don't ask me why, it seemed like the right thing to do at the time. Mike
Do you have any recommendation on the best way to stretch out new strings? Usually I put a new set on the guitar/s I take to gigs which means I need them good and stretched beforehand. I have a method but curious what you'd recommend.
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Been using this method for a good while now - so stable. Rock solid.
Appreciate the video good method, got here through your short on the luthiers knot.
Good video easy to follow thanks!
Hey, Mark- on flattops I push the ball end halfway into the bridge and then push it in the rest of the way using the peg, then tug on the string to make sure the ball is seated up against the top. At the headstock end I stretch the string to the next tuner, make a right angle bend and cut it off leaving a half inch. This avoids the extra 6" of strings getting your way. You can still use tuner spacing for the D&G strings. Basically you're using the space between tuners as a measuring device to get equal winds on each string, about 3. After it's strung, a final trim on the string ends. I've changed strings 10 minutes before a show, 3 tugs & re-tunings and good to go. Rocket surgery 101.
I'm wondering if you still have that crappy little lap/pedal steel I built out of a 2X8. If so, that set of Schaller tuners on it might be kind of rare parts. I got them as NOS parts somewhere in the early 80s (guitar show?) in the original bubble pack. Apparently when Fender changed their tuners from Klusons in the late '60s to the rhomboid-shaped 'F' ones it was Schaller who supplied them. I have NEVER seen another set like the ones you have. FYI, I used it on 'Your Cheating Heart" Jethros recording. It ain't bad, especially in that context. If you ever wondered about the tuning, it was a B triad over an E triad. Don't ask me why, it seemed like the right thing to do at the time. Mike
Love ur videos
Do you have any recommendation on the best way to stretch out new strings? Usually I put a new set on the guitar/s I take to gigs which means I need them good and stretched beforehand. I have a method but curious what you'd recommend.
Don't do the dreaded knot.