Great videos, Man! The only problem is that I was about to try to replace my intake manifold gaskets, but after watching your videos, I think I'll just save up some money and put it in the shop instead! I got a headache just watching!
As a mechanic it's known that GM Dexcool (orange) anti-freeze was a replacement for green coolant went sky high in price. Later the Dexcool anti-freeze was more aggressive on eating o-rings, head and intake gaskets. So this GM 3.8 liter engine have issues with lower intake getting eroded and eaten away to leak around water passages on intake. The plastic tubes to water pump and lower intake tend to crack and leak around 120,000 mile mark. Auto parts shops have aluminum replacement tubes to buy for water pump and intake manifold. Hint use a little petroleum jelly for o-rings ease assembly. I would switch to back to OLD Green anti-freeze and not worry about Dexcool eating or eroding your gaskets away.
@@edubb2491 it should be a recall. But that's not the fact. When gm switched the coolant they didn't upgrade the gaskets. The gaskets are the failure not the coolant
I have a Dorman plenum with gaskets I'm intending on installing tomorrow. The previous owner had put the metal coolant elbows in the tensioner, that's a good thing. :-) In responce to your message at 17:14 there's always something that is harder than it should be or needs to be, I'm expecting that (ugh!). So far, so good. I'm sure I'll referrence these while I'm working on my car. Thank you.
Thank you very much. I've watched the series a few times, now I'm just waiting on my parts to ship from rock auto. Fingers crossed my lower intake isn't all corroded.
It's been a long time since this was uploaded but the upper intake has a little know flaw in the egr area. The heat from the engine can cause the plastic to melt allowing coolant to flow into the throttle body and be burned off. If you allow this to continue it will eventually allow enough coolant to hydrolock and or kill your engine . If it were me id change the lower gaskets, the plastic elbows for the metal dorman set , and the upper intake with the dorman upgraded kit that shields the egr pipe with aluminum fixing the melting issue .
@@plantmanstudios Nobody can answer to how much time you have , i'd be sure it's the same issue first. The 3800 is known for various leaks some very well hidden. If your engine is setup like my 2k5 impala by your alternator is there are two hoses that feed your heater core with end fittings known to corrode and leak at their gaskets. The most common coolant failure has to be the plastic elbows seen here ruclips.net/video/Tlmv1DrUXXU/видео.html After Those two there is the plastic intake manifold issue like i was talking about seen here ruclips.net/video/m6jfbVVaCZ0/видео.html If you can turn a few wrenches you can fix them all for less than $200 and 2 to 5 hours depending on how well you know the car.
In process of replacing upper and lower on Y2K Monte Carlo SS. Purchased a redesigned upper plenum with gasket kit for $59 on Ebay - same price as a standard gasket set. Also purchased a Felpro metal core PermaDry MS 98014T lower gasket set $50. This is their best product to eliminate future leaking. Make sure you remove all 12 lower intake bolts before trying to lift off intake. Complete change out by using aluminum heater hose bypass elbows.
Just one problem I see. You installed the orange end gaskets first, then the sides. GM installed the sides first, applied sealer on the corners, THEN installed the end seals with sealant. It's called "gasket stacking" and is defacto GM practice on its oil pans, and many manifold gaskets, including this one. The way you installed these, there will always be a small gap around the 4 corner "tabs" on the side gaskets. Both ways technically work, but sides first is the way gm intended. Thats why the end seals had sealant on them where they did.
5.17.15. You can drain the block of coolant, the knock sensors are screwed in the block drain holes. The rear block drain (firewall side) is an extremely tough one to get out. I had to custom bend a 7/8 combination wrench (12point) (Taiwan) 90 degrees & grind the sides down to get it out, but it was still a bear to turn the wrench! I also pulled a metal shield that surrounds the sensor! 🎱
10.4.14. You can drain 99% of the coolant by also unscrewing the knock sensors out of both sides of the block. The rear bank is extremely tough to access! The transaxle is in the way! I made a special tool out of a cheap 7/8 inch (12 point) combination wrench,bent 90 degrees at the box end,With a map gas torch. It's a shame that GM used the block drain plug location to mount the knock sensors!
they are not passages, they are blocks (dead-end passages). his were corroded and he chose to replace the lower intake manifold (at a high cost). They do corrode, whether you need to buy a new intake is another story, depends on how bad they are, mine just had a little indentation on one of the sides and the other side is smooth as glass. I would say mine is not bad enough to warrant replacing.
+John Smith before you lay the rubber gaskets on the end down. i lay a THIN bead of black rtv down on ends. smooth it out even. then a dap or tiny hurshey kiss in the four corners. lay rubber gaskets down. put another dab in all four corners again on the top of the rubber end gaskets. i smooth a little rtv on the ends of intake. . no rtv needed for the gaskets that seal it to the heads. 11ft lbs
firs off thank you for you vid it helped a lot ... after I did it all just the way the vid show but now my car stalls it wont stay on it starts right up and idle for a min but when I drive it will stall at any speed. if idont keep giving it gas it just die,,, why,, what can be the cause of this
Would it be a bad idea to use quick steel to seal the corroded flat areas on the old one? Like fill it in, let it dry and sand down to make it flat? Great video I'm chasing a coolant leak too. if you want to avoid any further leaks stop using dexcool, or so I've read. Thanks
C Perez I havent done that so no experience but at the risk of having to do the job again if it fails and also the potential of fatal engine damage if an excessive amount of coolant gets in the system I would advise against trying it. Thanks for commenting. cheers
When I took mine out it was corroded...so I Tig welded mine...Then Tape each area off and use a dremal tool to knock it down..then use a 80 / 300 grit to smooth it down...I put a thin layer of permatex on the gasket it never leaks after 100.000 miles...I sold the car for a truck...
As an alternative to buying a new lower intake manifold (which is pricey), you can check junkyards. The 3800 engines are plentiful in Chevys, Buicks and Pontiacs. Or place an add on various Facebook GM 3800 sites. Two very common sites are W-body Marketplace and Grand Prix Classifieds. Ask if anyone has a spare manifold that is in good shape. You would be surprised how many 3800 parts many people accumulate over the years, and many parts are just laying around and guys would like to make a sale. Prices can be 1/3 to 1/2 what you would pay for brand new.
Hey I know this is an old vid, but did u have to takeoff the drive belt tensioner? If not the whole thing, is their a way to just unhook the little plastic tube where it hooks into the lower intake? Hope u see this after 4yrs. Changing 1 rite now on 02 impala. Just bought an they were slick. I've changed on a series 1 3800, so lol diff but mostly the same. Just antifreeze oil mix, an must be going out the exhaust. Which I know can happen. Runs great tho, no white smoke out exhaust so don't think its head gasket. Just hope i dont gotta remove drive belt tensioner deal to get that plastic tube out.
I just want to find part 1 of this vid also. Trying but no luck. Just part 2 and 3 so far. Doing this myself now. About to take lower intake off. Has to be my prob. Did b4 on series 1 3800, and it had oil/antifreeze mixed, same with this 02 impala, runs great just losing coolant somewhere. Just praying it's not somehow head gasket. But runs to good to be head gasket I'd think. Thx for the vid! Good work
@@dabneyoffermein595 yup, still driving it and it was just intake and 1 of them stock plastic elbows that hook into intake. Got metal one's now but rust will prolly end up being the death of mine. Seems motors and stuff can go til the frames like to break haha.
I got a 2004 Grand Prix with the coolant leaking issue. Most shops want $1000 to install them and claim they need an entire day. I also need to do the gaskets on the valve covers because they have the slight oil seam leak. Boy this may take all day.
Awesome video, so much detail then other videos out there, my only question is what lower intake did you end purchasing since the doorman didn't work? Thanks
I am also replacing the upper and lower intake manifold and gaskets. However, I moved the crankshaft pulley and do not remember its location. Should I be worried? If so, how do I set it up before I start the car? Thank you in advance.
The Factory ones are plastic and not very smart.. you can upgrade them to aluminum which shouldnt give you problems again. Also the lower intake manifold gaskets are plastic and can be upgraded to (Series 3) aluminum gaskets as well.
The problem is the upper intake manifold where the egr valve goes through the plastic hole in the upper intake. It burns through the plastic and allow the coolant to seep through. I replaced head gaskets then found this problem. It was the ONLY problem
you should never put treed locker on them i did this four years a go on my Lumina 3.8 and the bolts still are not coming loos on me and that is with out Tourking them down as well dame im good im a god a this job
Umm, this isn't a Chevy 3.8L. The 3.8l oe 3800 was developed by Buick and GM adopted it as their go to v6. This little v6 has a lot of potential. It's very similar in design to Buick Motor Sports Stage 2 3.8L block.
I have the 02 Impala LS 3.8 and i get this sucking noise near the air filter box, it literally sounds like its coming from that but, when the car warms up.... it goes away. Is it a vacuum leak? or the Intake Manifold...
I got that same Simtom on my 3.8 LS Impala doing a value cover and upper/lower manafold etc....got the hole set up from start to finish I'll let u know I I sounds different after
You probably had a hard time lining up the bolt holes because of it being an aftermarket part. They make stuff with crappy tolerances lately. Ive notice that with alot of stuff. Smh.
so they designed the hole int he gasket on purpose so the coolant eats the metal of the lower intake manifold which forces you have to replace it every 10-15 years. Bastards. They probably wants you to go out and buy another car.
Y10Q the one on my 98 lesabre has been done three times. the gaskets are lifetime warranty so there is not cost to me for them but i have to pay my mechanic for the labor every time this thing starts leaking coolant. mechanic says that the OEM seals failed and the coolant corroded the aluminum over time and so this is a problem that will have to be done occassionally
Mathew Wood Mathew, thanks for the advice...the issue for me is that the coolant corroded the aluminum where it was leaking out onto the block. The corrosion reduced the tolerance created by the gasket and so eventually it will leak in that spot again. I think the mechanic uses a good quality gasket, bit they can't overcome poor design and the corrosive effect on the metal. Thanks again.
Yeah, sorry I realised it after I had written the above. It's a shame you can't hit them up for a new intake as a result of the constant failure! Here in Australia there was no warranty or recall on these gaskets at all, even though they acknowledged it and released the aluminium type. I have to say though, I really like these supercharged V6 engines. Generally everyone over here all want the LS engines, but as I like to say - my power is built, not bought! Have a good day.
Ok one thing I did notice that wasn't done was the tsunami of cussing that would have happened at my house had I had to do the job twice because of junk parts.
Those elbows are the shittiest pop can metal possible so when reinstalling it put the elbows in the bracket first in the correct spots to! Then line it up and slowly finesse it back onto the vehicle. They have to go in straight one tiny Itty bitty small angle at any point while sucking the bolts down and pop they WILL break I promise u that. Take your time here and do it slow if u don't want to make another parts store trip to be told u took the last set and they have to order it in lol. Woah! Slow!
The orange o-rings on the Dorman elbow/tubes are junk. replace the o-rings on the elbows before installation or you will have to redo the job in 10,000 miles.
Great videos, Man! The only problem is that I was about to try to replace my intake manifold gaskets, but after watching your videos, I think I'll just save up some money and put it in the shop instead! I got a headache just watching!
As a mechanic it's known that GM Dexcool (orange) anti-freeze was a replacement for green coolant went sky high in price. Later the Dexcool anti-freeze was more aggressive on eating o-rings, head and intake gaskets. So this GM 3.8 liter engine have issues with lower intake getting eroded and eaten away to leak around water passages on intake. The plastic tubes to water pump and lower intake tend to crack and leak around 120,000 mile mark. Auto parts shops have aluminum replacement tubes to buy for water pump and intake manifold. Hint use a little petroleum jelly for o-rings ease assembly. I would switch to back to OLD Green anti-freeze and not worry about Dexcool eating or eroding your gaskets away.
Took the words right outta my mouth, only better, well said.
Is this a fact?
How much would a shop charge? Iam loosing oil..nothen on ground..thinken manifold gaskets? Ty
@Dwayne White well..damn then..this should be a recall then..or some shit..pshh!
@@edubb2491 it should be a recall. But that's not the fact. When gm switched the coolant they didn't upgrade the gaskets. The gaskets are the failure not the coolant
I have a Dorman plenum with gaskets I'm intending on installing tomorrow. The previous owner had put the metal coolant elbows in the tensioner, that's a good thing. :-) In responce to your message at 17:14 there's always something that is harder than it should be or needs to be, I'm expecting that (ugh!).
So far, so good. I'm sure I'll referrence these while I'm working on my car. Thank you.
Thank you very much. I've watched the series a few times, now I'm just waiting on my parts to ship from rock auto. Fingers crossed my lower intake isn't all corroded.
Thanks for making these videos. I couldn't do it without them.
It's been a long time since this was uploaded but the upper intake has a little know flaw in the egr area. The heat from the engine can cause the plastic to melt allowing coolant to flow into the throttle body and be burned off. If you allow this to continue it will eventually allow enough coolant to hydrolock and or kill your engine . If it were me id change the lower gaskets, the plastic elbows for the metal dorman set , and the upper intake with the dorman upgraded kit that shields the egr pipe with aluminum fixing the melting issue .
@@plantmanstudios Nobody can answer to how much time you have , i'd be sure it's the same issue first. The 3800 is known for various leaks some very well hidden.
If your engine is setup like my 2k5 impala by your alternator is there are two hoses that feed your heater core with end fittings known to corrode and leak at their gaskets. The most common coolant failure has to be the plastic elbows seen here ruclips.net/video/Tlmv1DrUXXU/видео.html
After Those two there is the plastic intake manifold issue like i was talking about seen here ruclips.net/video/m6jfbVVaCZ0/видео.html
If you can turn a few wrenches you can fix them all for less than $200 and 2 to 5 hours depending on how well you know the car.
will cracks in the lower intake manifold cause coolant leaks aswell
@@martinproctor4883 did u ever get an answer? mine has 2 hairline cracks
In process of replacing upper and lower on Y2K Monte Carlo SS. Purchased a redesigned upper plenum with gasket kit for $59 on Ebay - same price as a standard gasket set. Also purchased a Felpro metal core PermaDry MS 98014T lower gasket set $50. This is their best product to eliminate future leaking. Make sure you remove all 12 lower intake bolts before trying to lift off intake. Complete change out by using aluminum heater hose bypass elbows.
Just one problem I see. You installed the orange end gaskets first, then the sides. GM installed the sides first, applied sealer on the corners, THEN installed the end seals with sealant. It's called "gasket stacking" and is defacto GM practice on its oil pans, and many manifold gaskets, including this one. The way you installed these, there will always be a small gap around the 4 corner "tabs" on the side gaskets. Both ways technically work, but sides first is the way gm intended. Thats why the end seals had sealant on them where they did.
I can find lowers for $50 in great shape & verified at my local salvage yard... it's a huge help. Only yard that had em in a 5 hr radius.
Yep always replace the Elbow's with Metals ones ( they sale them at ZZP and other 3.8 sites. Good work:)
It's actally the Buick 231 CID 3800 Series which dates back to 1961 debuted as the 198 CID Fireball V-6
I've got to say that you make excellent step by step videos. This was a huge help. Thank you very much!
awesome, this is the same as a holden 3.8L engine also. they went from 1988 to 2004 as the preferred commodore sedan engine V6.
5.17.15. You can drain the block of coolant, the knock sensors are screwed in the block drain holes. The rear block drain (firewall side) is an extremely tough one to get out. I had to custom bend a 7/8 combination wrench (12point) (Taiwan) 90 degrees & grind the sides down to get it out, but it was still a bear to turn the wrench! I also pulled a metal shield that surrounds the sensor! 🎱
10.4.14. You can drain 99% of the coolant by also unscrewing the knock sensors out of both sides of the block. The rear bank is extremely tough to access! The transaxle is in the way! I made a special tool out of a cheap 7/8 inch (12 point) combination wrench,bent 90 degrees at the box end,With a map gas torch. It's a shame that GM used the block drain plug location to mount the knock sensors!
Thanks seen many videos but yours the best as to how to do it, like a simple senor disconnect. I going for it on my 2002 Chevy Impala.
Violative911 GL with the project, and thanks for your comments. Cheers
Great job: but is a manifolds the same as a cranshaft replace
You can see at 11:20 the tensioner is bad also. Notice the gap at the bottom vs. the gap at the top.
The passages that are corroded are on the passenger side, right? I'm fouling out on cylinders 1-4 so I think that info helps a lot.
they are not passages, they are blocks (dead-end passages). his were corroded and he chose to replace the lower intake manifold (at a high cost). They do corrode, whether you need to buy a new intake is another story, depends on how bad they are, mine just had a little indentation on one of the sides and the other side is smooth as glass. I would say mine is not bad enough to warrant replacing.
Do you need to put silicone grease on the manifold gaskets?
+John Smith before you lay the rubber gaskets on the end down. i lay a THIN bead of black rtv down on ends. smooth it out even. then a dap or tiny hurshey kiss in the four corners. lay rubber gaskets down. put another dab in all four corners again on the top of the rubber end gaskets. i smooth a little rtv on the ends of intake. . no rtv needed for the gaskets that seal it to the heads. 11ft lbs
Great vid, How many miles were on this engine? Thanks!
firs off thank you for you vid it helped a lot ... after I did it all just the way the vid show but now my car stalls it wont stay on it starts right up and idle for a min but when I drive it will stall at any speed. if idont keep giving it gas it just die,,, why,, what can be the cause of this
Jada Loiseau did you find out why it was stalling?
Do Not use sandpaper for the heater hose bypass. Use steel wool or equivalent.
Would it be a bad idea to use quick steel to seal the corroded flat areas on the old one? Like fill it in, let it dry and sand down to make it flat? Great video I'm chasing a coolant leak too. if you want to avoid any further leaks stop using dexcool, or so I've read.
Thanks
C Perez I havent done that so no experience but at the risk of having to do the job again if it fails and also the potential of fatal engine damage if an excessive amount of coolant gets in the system I would advise against trying it. Thanks for commenting. cheers
C Perez if you want to avoid hydro lock you must do it right!!!....
Thank you for making these videos! Incredibly helpful!
When I took mine out it was corroded...so I Tig welded mine...Then Tape each area off and use a dremal tool to knock it down..then use a 80 / 300 grit to smooth it down...I put a thin layer of permatex on the gasket it never leaks after 100.000 miles...I sold the car for a truck...
As an alternative to buying a new lower intake manifold (which is pricey), you can check junkyards. The 3800 engines are plentiful in Chevys, Buicks and Pontiacs. Or place an add on various Facebook GM 3800 sites. Two very common sites are W-body Marketplace and Grand Prix Classifieds. Ask if anyone has a spare manifold that is in good shape. You would be surprised how many 3800 parts many people accumulate over the years, and many parts are just laying around and guys would like to make a sale. Prices can be 1/3 to 1/2 what you would pay for brand new.
You havent watched part 3 have you :-)
Hey I know this is an old vid, but did u have to takeoff the drive belt tensioner? If not the whole thing, is their a way to just unhook the little plastic tube where it hooks into the lower intake? Hope u see this after 4yrs. Changing 1 rite now on 02 impala. Just bought an they were slick. I've changed on a series 1 3800, so lol diff but mostly the same. Just antifreeze oil mix, an must be going out the exhaust. Which I know can happen. Runs great tho, no white smoke out exhaust so don't think its head gasket. Just hope i dont gotta remove drive belt tensioner deal to get that plastic tube out.
I just want to find part 1 of this vid also. Trying but no luck. Just part 2 and 3 so far. Doing this myself now. About to take lower intake off. Has to be my prob. Did b4 on series 1 3800, and it had oil/antifreeze mixed, same with this 02 impala, runs great just losing coolant somewhere. Just praying it's not somehow head gasket. But runs to good to be head gasket I'd think. Thx for the vid! Good work
Head gaskets RARELY EVER blow
@@dabneyoffermein595 yup, still driving it and it was just intake and 1 of them stock plastic elbows that hook into intake. Got metal one's now but rust will prolly end up being the death of mine. Seems motors and stuff can go til the frames like to break haha.
With this problem were you encountering a fluttering noise as well? Like when you would press on the gas
I got a 2004 Grand Prix with the coolant leaking issue. Most shops want $1000 to install them and claim they need an entire day. I also need to do the gaskets on the valve covers because they have the slight oil seam leak. Boy this may take all day.
james hawkins do it yourself and save a good $900. Just make sure you follow the video exactly. gl
RatchetsAnd Wrenches I'm going to buy the repair book also just because.
Now would be a great time to also replace the valve cover gaskets.
I can't figure out why there is a coolant passage through the tensioner. Do you know why?
Buick engineering at it's worst.
Those plastic elbow tubes need to be replaced anyway if you're going to remove them, the aluminum ones are best to use.
yea, get DORMAN (they are high quality)
I need bolt locations I forgot…and my labels wore off my bags two years later my fault for not doing the cardboard part labeling method
Awesome video, so much detail then other videos out there, my only question is what lower intake did you end purchasing since the doorman didn't work? Thanks
Junkyard
I am also replacing the upper and lower intake manifold and gaskets. However, I moved the crankshaft pulley and do not remember its location. Should I be worried? If so, how do I set it up before I start the car? Thank you in advance.
oh no, its going to be a troubling
Of the two 3800s I’ve owned both have needed new elbows. One at 145k and the other around 170k. Not sure if it had been done before.
The Factory ones are plastic and not very smart.. you can upgrade them to aluminum which shouldnt give you problems again. Also the lower intake manifold gaskets are plastic and can be upgraded to (Series 3) aluminum gaskets as well.
The problem is the upper intake manifold where the egr valve goes through the plastic hole in the upper intake. It burns through the plastic and allow the coolant to seep through. I replaced head gaskets then found this problem. It was the ONLY problem
Very Helpful and informative! Thanks!
Stephen Woodrum np, glad you liked it.
once u replace them will they eventually begin to leak again?
imserious2187 oc N
2woop coolant leaking back of motor 3.8
why not fill in with JB Weld?
Does oil pass through the lower intake or just coolant
both
my lower intake is corroded with minor pitting. should i replace it? It is not nearly as bad as that but is corroded
I would replace it.
what does the pitting look like? is the pitting in the area where they are blanked out and no passage? if so, its not a big deal, just go with it.
@@dabneyoffermein595 thanks for the reply. It worked out just fine.
How long did it take you to do the all the work
brad hawkins I dont remember exactly since I ran into the lower intake problem. But if I had to do it again, probably around 2 hours.
it's a two day job
I was told it was the upper manifold gasket replace it but the engine light is still on but to did
I took mine off today and it had oil all over. is that bad?
no, oil in the corner hidden pockets are good., all very good.
you should never put treed locker on them i did this four years a go on my Lumina 3.8 and the bolts still are not coming loos on me and that is with out Tourking them down as well dame im good im a god a this job
Gm official repair manual says to use threadlocker. Dont mislead people because you are arrogant
I was told it was the 2009 Chevy impala upper manifold gasket replace it but the engine light is still on
Thanks for posting!
Maybe that lower intake was hard to line up because it was a Dorman, I don't think they are of the best quality!
Gracias por los vídeos amigo , muy buenos
Umm, this isn't a Chevy 3.8L. The 3.8l oe 3800 was developed by Buick and GM adopted it as their go to v6. This little v6 has a lot of potential. It's very similar in design to Buick Motor Sports Stage 2 3.8L block.
DO NOT USE THREAD LOCKING COMPOUND.
Just install clean bolts and torque to does in sequence
In the official gm service manual it says to use medium blue.
11.15.20. I use the white Teflon®️thread sealant on the LIM bolts .... If the bolt holes are thru holes rather than blind holes.🔩🔧
JB weld will fix that hole up
What does it mean when you have a P0441 code ? and when you have the heater on the car run real bad ?
I'm ganna go for it thanks for the video very very helpful!!!!!
javier guillermo GL, thanks for watching.
Not sure if you have a video on changing a heater core on a buick 3800 just wondering thanks
Where did you buy your gasket set. some don't come with injector orings.
felpro does
replace the two plastic elbows on the tensioner with aluminum.
Quien tiene la tapa multiple esa alguien save donde puedo consegirla gracias
I have the 02 Impala LS 3.8 and i get this sucking noise near the air filter box, it literally sounds like its coming from that but, when the car warms up.... it goes away. Is it a vacuum leak? or the Intake Manifold...
I got that same Simtom on my 3.8 LS Impala doing a value cover and upper/lower manafold etc....got the hole set up from start to finish I'll let u know I I sounds different after
You probably had a hard time lining up the bolt holes because of it being an aftermarket part. They make stuff with crappy tolerances lately. Ive notice that with alot of stuff. Smh.
great video
Very good
so they designed the hole int he gasket on purpose so the coolant eats the metal of the lower intake manifold which forces you have to replace it every 10-15 years. Bastards. They probably wants you to go out and buy another car.
Y10Q I think putting the wrong coolant or just water in there is what causes the damage to the lower intake usually.
Y10Q the one on my 98 lesabre has been done three times. the gaskets are lifetime warranty so there is not cost to me for them but i have to pay my mechanic for the labor every time this thing starts leaking coolant. mechanic says that the OEM seals failed and the coolant corroded the aluminum over time and so this is a problem that will have to be done occassionally
soylent green Hey mate, you can buy aluminium (or aluminum as you guys call it :) intake manifold gaskets. I've just bought some for mine.
Mathew Wood Mathew, thanks for the advice...the issue for me is that the coolant corroded the aluminum where it was leaking out onto the block. The corrosion reduced the tolerance created by the gasket and so eventually it will leak in that spot again. I think the mechanic uses a good quality gasket, bit they can't overcome poor design and the corrosive effect on the metal. Thanks again.
Yeah, sorry I realised it after I had written the above. It's a shame you can't hit them up for a new intake as a result of the constant failure! Here in Australia there was no warranty or recall on these gaskets at all, even though they acknowledged it and released the aluminium type. I have to say though, I really like these supercharged V6 engines. Generally everyone over here all want the LS engines, but as I like to say - my power is built, not bought! Have a good day.
Ok one thing I did notice that wasn't done was the tsunami of cussing that would have happened at my house had I had to do the job twice because of junk parts.
don deubler hahaha that step didn't make it through the editing process :0
U in the dark and i did not get to follow the bolt pattern so i had to find another video that was more clear
Put dye leak tester first
como la hace cardíaca homy
That's a Buick engine. Not a Chevy. It was designed in the 60s.
Those elbows are the shittiest pop can metal possible so when reinstalling it put the elbows in the bracket first in the correct spots to! Then line it up and slowly finesse it back onto the vehicle. They have to go in straight one tiny Itty bitty small angle at any point while sucking the bolts down and pop they WILL break I promise u that. Take your time here and do it slow if u don't want to make another parts store trip to be told u took the last set and they have to order it in lol. Woah! Slow!
The orange o-rings on the Dorman elbow/tubes are junk. replace the o-rings on the elbows before installation or you will have to redo the job in 10,000 miles.
Could have just bought a 5.3 from junk yard... 300-400
5.3 doesnt fit transverse in an impala
Electrologist