Love you videos my man, I'm in Orlando, Florida and have a 2015 SX190, absolutely love it. Also have a place in Anahola on Kaua'i and thinking about getting an 242E for there but my question is about the bilge in the SX190. Mine seems to hum and not work. Did you replace yours by yourself of have someone do it for you? Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated. Mahalo nui loa!
Aloha, There is deja vu in the air...I just had a problem with the 2nd bilge and maybe tomorrow a "fix it" vid will get posted. The original SX190 bilge was a "RULE" bilge and it lasted only a few months. It burned out probably due to being left on but no matter. It was a really simple replacement. Took 5 mins. and was replaced by a bilge I found at my local Walmart. You may elect to get a direct RULE replacement which I would have done but I needed a bilge right then and there. The removal is simple. Reach down and squeeze the plastic "ears" (2) to uncouple the pump from its mount. The mount is just a plastic filter cage. Squeezing the ears of the cage will release the pump unit. Cut the wires, remove it and reinstall a new one. Black wire (-) to black wire and Brown (+)to brown. My replacement non-rule pump was an exact fit for the mounted "cage". The latest bilge problem was not the pump but actually the Reset/Breaker switch. That will be in the video. Hope this helps! Aloha!
@@HawaiiJetboat Thanks for the tip, turns out the pump is working fine but it runs non stop. I think the float switch must be stuck or shot, do you know how to get to the switch? Is it below the cage or somewhere else. Mahalo!
@@jamesbellon3145 Aloha, I just looked up the 2015 SX190 parts fiche and it doesn't show a float switch in the diagrams. If one has been added or if the bilge in the boat was upgraded and has one it is likely the wedge/arm style that may have stuck open or if it is a bilge that has an internal switch it too may be stuck including being "dried" in a stuck position. You might try flooding the engine compartment with hot water mixed with salt-away or start and let it soak for awhile before turning the battery on for the pump. If that doesnt work you'll probably have to feel around for the switch if it's an accessory unit or pull the whole pump if its built in. I have never seen them unreachable and or under the cage. Good Luck.
@@HawaiiJetboat Thanks, original Rule 500gph bilge wo I assume the switch is internal? I will try your method of adding water to engine compartment and see what happens, again, pump is working but concerned that since it runs constantly, it will burn out then I've have to replace it anyway. Mahalo and enjoy the weekend!
Hi. Thanks for this great video (and all the others you have). I am in the market for a new AR190 (hopefully soon). I learn a lot from these videos. Do you think it would make sense trying to isolate the connector of the trailer lights that's inside the trailer frame (maybe in a box full of grease or something?). Thank you so much.
Aloha, thanks for the kind words and question about the trailer wiring connectors. I am assuming you are referring to the half dozen or so plug style connectors on the OEM wiring that failed and had to be pulled out of the trailer. My personal opinion is: There should be no plug connectors in the wiring once it leaves the pronged connection at the vehicle. The lights and wiring kits for these trailers are light-duty and again in my opinion, the easier they are to get to for inspection/repair and even replacement when needed the better. Plug connectors like the OEM are super susceptible to corrosion just by their nature. I'm sure that more stout wiring and connectors could be used but off the shelf stuff is inexpensive (for boating) and it's failure usually happens the day you need it most. Better to have quick access and a quick remedy to get back on the water and not ruin your day. Hope you get the AR190. You'll love it, spring and summer are coming! -scott
@@HawaiiJetboat Thank you Sir. I agree with you. Probably best to re-wire the trailer with one continuous solid good quality wire and avoid connectors at all. I am excited about an AR. I think it will be the perfect boat for us. Am stepping down from a big 27' Cruiser and I can't wait to get close to the sandbar and discover the shallow waters :).
Aloha, you are correct, the trailer accessories appear to be the weak spot. I'm on 18 months of ownership, almost weekly use in salt water and I'm on the 2nd set of aftermarket lights, a new trailer tongue jack and two new tires. The trailer itself: the frame, the bunks, the wheels/bearings, the folding tongue and the winch are all doing well. In a recent episode I put together a DIY rinse system for the trailer frame rails. -scott
You are right, Carlisle tires suck. They are the worst trailer tires , for boats or RVs. They are made in China. All Chinese trailer tires suck. Go with Maxxis or USA made Goodyear trailer tires, NOT Chinese made Goodyears.
Aloha, Yes the trailer did come with the boat, Yamaha makes buying their boat a "package-deal". Boat and Trailer come together. I would check the dealer nearest you for an up to date price and or check Yamaha's excellent website: www.yamahaboats.com/ for their MSRP. -scott
How did the install of the tongue jack go? I am about to embark on the same project and seems like the part that holds the winch must come off to access the bolts for the swivel mount. Also I have noticed that some jacks use the universal bracket to mount and some use the circular plate with the bolts, but they all have holes in the center. Can they all be used with the disc mount or does it specifically have to be one with the disc for the shorelan d'r? Thanks (not sure if I made too much sense, I'm new to this and don't know there terminology, hence I'm having a difficult time finding info online regarding it).
Aloha Michael, I went back to all the footage I shot and this is how I did mine. 1. I jacked the tongue up with a bottle jack. 2. Total removal of the Winch Bracket/Jack from the trailer. 3. Dis-assemble the existing jack (all bolts and round plate) from the Winch Bracket. 4. It turned out the Original Jack and the West Marine Jack being installed used the same size round disc. 5. The new West Marine Jack used a locking pin that was positioned 180 degrees opposite the Original Jacks locking pin BUT there were holes already drilled into the Winch Bracket at the proper location(s). However, the new West Marine Jack's pin was of a larger diameter and needed to be reamed out a few fractions so it would go in fully length. 6. I put it all together on my work bench and then mounted it on the trailer. My last thought on this project was that I should have gone after an even larger diameter wheel, the double is better and better made than the single (OEM) but a larger wheel I think would eliminate the push-tug-pull moves I still go through when hooking up. Best Of Luck. -scott
@@HawaiiJetboat so you have to bore out the hole on the winch bracket some more to accommodate the new pin? Also, do you think the next weight class up (jack) with the bigger single wheel would be a better option? The main reason I am leaning towards the West Marine brand is BCS is the only one with the nipple fitting to insert grease into the screw without taking all the gears apart. Thanks for the info!! It is extremely hard to find any info on this, especially as it relates to the shoreland'r (I have an SX190 as well, 2015 model that came with shoreland'r profile trailer.
@@michaelbuschmanable, Hi Michael, Yes I had to bore/ream out the two (2) holes on the Winch Bracket that the spring loaded pin of the new jack slides into. One pin hole is for the locking upright position and the other was the horizontal traveling position. Go slowly and remove just enough material to get the new pin in and then file down the edge to remove any burrs. If you go to far with boring/reaming the fit will be sloppy and with enough side to side movement of the jack in the upright position I think the pins resistance to staying in place is compromised. Good Luck.
@@michaelbuschmanable Yes...I used a tapered bit (not a countersink bit) and if Im not mistaken the maximum wideness of the tapered bit was just the right size.
Lol got to give to too u man, enjoy the hell out of that unit I want to see put through the 365 salt water just so I’ll know how well my 4 month a year freash water 2018 AR195 will hold up to over the years I buy to use and shit breaks o well it a boat and the hole world knows that saying, keep the videos going !! Lol ✌️👉
Aloha. Thanks for the comment. Actually rigging up for tomorrow but we have big winds right now so it may be a short day. I'm a huge fan of Yamaha. I'm sure that AR 195 will last for years. I still own a 93 Yamaha Wave Blaster and a 98 Wave Runner GP800 and they run great. Yamaha Quality.
Love you videos my man, I'm in Orlando, Florida and have a 2015 SX190, absolutely love it. Also have a place in Anahola on Kaua'i and thinking about getting an 242E for there but my question is about the bilge in the SX190. Mine seems to hum and not work. Did you replace yours by yourself of have someone do it for you? Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated. Mahalo nui loa!
Aloha,
There is deja vu in the air...I just had a problem with the 2nd bilge and maybe tomorrow a "fix it" vid will get posted. The original SX190 bilge was a "RULE" bilge and it lasted only a few months. It burned out probably due to being left on but no matter. It was a really simple replacement. Took 5 mins. and was replaced by a bilge I found at my local Walmart. You may elect to get a direct RULE replacement which I would have done but I needed a bilge right then and there. The removal is simple. Reach down and squeeze the plastic "ears" (2) to uncouple the pump from its mount. The mount is just a plastic filter cage. Squeezing the ears of the cage will release the pump unit. Cut the wires, remove it and reinstall a new one. Black wire (-) to black wire and Brown (+)to brown. My replacement non-rule pump was an exact fit for the mounted "cage".
The latest bilge problem was not the pump but actually the Reset/Breaker switch. That will be in the video. Hope this helps! Aloha!
@@HawaiiJetboat Thanks for the tip, turns out the pump is working fine but it runs non stop. I think the float switch must be stuck or shot, do you know how to get to the switch? Is it below the cage or somewhere else. Mahalo!
@@jamesbellon3145 Aloha, I just looked up the 2015 SX190 parts fiche and it doesn't show a float switch in the diagrams. If one has been added or if the bilge in the boat was upgraded and has one it is likely the wedge/arm style that may have stuck open or if it is a bilge that has an internal switch it too may be stuck including being "dried" in a stuck position. You might try flooding the engine compartment with hot water mixed with salt-away or start and let it soak for awhile before turning the battery on for the pump. If that doesnt work you'll probably have to feel around for the switch if it's an accessory unit or pull the whole pump if its built in. I have never seen them unreachable and or under the cage. Good Luck.
@@HawaiiJetboat Thanks, original Rule 500gph bilge wo I assume the switch is internal? I will try your method of adding water to engine compartment and see what happens, again, pump is working but concerned that since it runs constantly, it will burn out then I've have to replace it anyway. Mahalo and enjoy the weekend!
Hi. Thanks for this great video (and all the others you have). I am in the market for a new AR190 (hopefully soon). I learn a lot from these videos. Do you think it would make sense trying to isolate the connector of the trailer lights that's inside the trailer frame (maybe in a box full of grease or something?). Thank you so much.
Aloha, thanks for the kind words and question about the trailer wiring connectors. I am assuming you are referring to the half dozen or so plug style connectors on the OEM wiring that failed and had to be pulled out of the trailer. My personal opinion is: There should be no plug connectors in the wiring once it leaves the pronged connection at the vehicle. The lights and wiring kits for these trailers are light-duty and again in my opinion, the easier they are to get to for inspection/repair and even replacement when needed the better. Plug connectors like the OEM are super susceptible to corrosion just by their nature. I'm sure that more stout wiring and connectors could be used but off the shelf stuff is inexpensive (for boating) and it's failure usually happens the day you need it most. Better to have quick access and a quick remedy to get back on the water and not ruin your day.
Hope you get the AR190. You'll love it, spring and summer are coming!
-scott
@@HawaiiJetboat Thank you Sir. I agree with you. Probably best to re-wire the trailer with one continuous solid good quality wire and avoid connectors at all.
I am excited about an AR. I think it will be the perfect boat for us. Am stepping down from a big 27' Cruiser and I can't wait to get close to the sandbar and discover the shallow waters :).
That is a big boat you are stepping out of. The AR190 will feel like a sports car. Hope to hear about you getting it!
nice break down . The trailer is the weak link. The boat itself is awesome for the price you cant beat it!! nice content.
Aloha, you are correct, the trailer accessories appear to be the weak spot. I'm on 18 months of ownership, almost weekly use in salt water and I'm on the 2nd set of aftermarket lights, a new trailer tongue jack and two new tires. The trailer itself: the frame, the bunks, the wheels/bearings, the folding tongue and the winch are all doing well. In a recent episode I put together a DIY rinse system for the trailer frame rails.
-scott
You are right, Carlisle tires suck. They are the worst trailer tires , for boats or RVs. They are made in China. All Chinese trailer tires suck. Go with Maxxis or USA made Goodyear trailer tires, NOT Chinese made Goodyears.
Aloha,
Yes that seems to be an issue with the Carlisle units. Thanks for the tip about Maxxis.
Does the trailer come with the boat? How much was all together?
Aloha,
Yes the trailer did come with the boat, Yamaha makes buying their boat a "package-deal". Boat and Trailer come together. I would check the dealer nearest you for an up to date price and or check Yamaha's excellent website: www.yamahaboats.com/ for their MSRP.
-scott
How did the install of the tongue jack go? I am about to embark on the same project and seems like the part that holds the winch must come off to access the bolts for the swivel mount. Also I have noticed that some jacks use the universal bracket to mount and some use the circular plate with the bolts, but they all have holes in the center. Can they all be used with the disc mount or does it specifically have to be one with the disc for the shorelan d'r? Thanks (not sure if I made too much sense, I'm new to this and don't know there terminology, hence I'm having a difficult time finding info online regarding it).
Aloha Michael, I went back to all the footage I shot and this is how I did mine. 1. I jacked the tongue up with a bottle jack. 2. Total removal of the Winch Bracket/Jack from the trailer. 3. Dis-assemble the existing jack (all bolts and round plate) from the Winch Bracket. 4. It turned out the Original Jack and the West Marine Jack being installed used the same size round disc. 5. The new West Marine Jack used a locking pin that was positioned 180 degrees opposite the Original Jacks locking pin BUT there were holes already drilled into the Winch Bracket at the proper location(s). However, the new West Marine Jack's pin was of a larger diameter and needed to be reamed out a few fractions so it would go in fully length. 6. I put it all together on my work bench and then mounted it on the trailer. My last thought on this project was that I should have gone after an even larger diameter wheel, the double is better and better made than the single (OEM) but a larger wheel I think would eliminate the push-tug-pull moves I still go through when hooking up. Best Of Luck.
-scott
@@HawaiiJetboat so you have to bore out the hole on the winch bracket some more to accommodate the new pin? Also, do you think the next weight class up (jack) with the bigger single wheel would be a better option? The main reason I am leaning towards the West Marine brand is BCS is the only one with the nipple fitting to insert grease into the screw without taking all the gears apart. Thanks for the info!! It is extremely hard to find any info on this, especially as it relates to the shoreland'r (I have an SX190 as well, 2015 model that came with shoreland'r profile trailer.
@@michaelbuschmanable, Hi Michael, Yes I had to bore/ream out the two (2) holes on the Winch Bracket that the spring loaded pin of the new jack slides into. One pin hole is for the locking upright position and the other was the horizontal traveling position. Go slowly and remove just enough material to get the new pin in and then file down the edge to remove any burrs. If you go to far with boring/reaming the fit will be sloppy and with enough side to side movement of the jack in the upright position I think the pins resistance to staying in place is compromised. Good Luck.
@@HawaiiJetboat thanks for the heads up! Any idea what bit size you used?
@@michaelbuschmanable Yes...I used a tapered bit (not a countersink bit) and if Im not mistaken the maximum wideness of the tapered bit was just the right size.
Lol got to give to too u man, enjoy the hell out of that unit I want to see put through the 365 salt water just so I’ll know how well my 4 month a year freash water 2018 AR195 will hold up to over the years I buy to use and shit breaks o well it a boat and the hole world knows that saying, keep the videos going !! Lol ✌️👉
Aloha. Thanks for the comment. Actually rigging up for tomorrow but we have big winds right now so it may be a short day. I'm a huge fan of Yamaha. I'm sure that AR 195 will last for years. I still own a 93 Yamaha Wave Blaster and a 98 Wave Runner GP800 and they run great. Yamaha Quality.