Here he is testing for leaks to find that one spot. If you plan on keeping your BMW (or any car for that matter), best to just change all rubber hoses (anything rubber, vacuum lines, fuel lines, even windshield seal, window belt moulding (and any external rubber especially if parked outside) after 10 years, especially the smaller ones. They simply all go bad over time as rubber decays with time. AND do not forget to change out BMW's CCV kit (if yours is equipped) every 10 years as well, if not done sooner.
Makes total sense. I have a '03 E39 and plan to replace EVERY vacuum line as well as the CCV piping as it's not fun going in under the intake on these engines to do one replacement at a time.
Great vid mate , similar problem with a Z4 downunder , when idling & you press the brake pedal, revs increases to around 1200 so spraying that pump with brake cleaner gave it the same increase in revs , so now I know what to replace .. cheers mate , your Vid helped me heaps. 👍
Just did a smoke test on my 04 325Ci that has a nagging P0171 & P0174 codes. The ONLY leak I found was at the Sucking Jet Pump (part# 11617503621) at the exact same location as in the video! Since I've found no other leaks and my MAF sensor checks out okay I'm gonna order the part and hopefully it fixes the codes so I can get it to pass emissions inspection. Great Video!
That is the vacuum booster hose and connects directly under the intake manifold in that exact center of the manifold. Literally right between cylinder 3 and 4 intake plenums. Why it only effects bank one has something to do with the firing order.
I have a 1998 BMW 540i. Went for a smog test. My hydrocarbons were high at 15mph test. HC- Measured 58, max is 49 in California. HC 25mph test measured 20, max is 33 (pass). I'm only 9 away form passing on the 15mph test. No check engine lights or codes. Car runs very well. two years ago it passed both easily. Would a cat clean in the gas help at all? What do recommend. Great videos, clear and informative. California is so strict.
Great video. I love the detailed explanations! Although I have a question now is it the overall total between short and long terms going up or down that will determine if it’s a vacuum leak or something else?
Wow.. Im having the same issue with sensor 2 bank 2.. I replaced a brand new from the dealership and I'm still getting a p0056 code .. I definitely need to do a smoke test.. where exactly is that brake booster hose located.. 2003 bmw X5 4.4 .??
Sucking jet pump tend to broke into two pieces where it's has been glued from the factory, most probably this one is broken too and leaking. You can try to glue it instead of ordering new one because it seems like easy fix and cheaper.
Dont dismiss the hose under the manifold that connects to the brake valve aswell they get hard overtime and leak on the joins or clamps cause of improper sealing
Check engine light came on, I took it to Autozone to get a read and they showed P0174 and also some secondary air pump code. I replaced a hose on the air pump that I knew was bad, and I inspected my disa valve o-ring. The disa valve was really easy to put back in; it didn't fight me at all. I ordered a new o-ring along with some new intake boots to go with. While waiting for the parts, my check engine light went away. I'll eventually replace that o-ring, but since the check engine light went away, I'm kind of unconcerned. My car is far from perfect. I'm just wondering why the check engine light would have gone away even though I didn't fix my vacuum leak.
Hi, I found my leak behind the maf,, the glove prevents you from seeing it. I sealed mine by placing wax from a toilet ring around the maf and putting the hose back on.
Hey Not Sure if il get a reply im chasing code p0174 and p0171 lean bank 1 and 2 on my m54b30 done a smoke test should my disa valve have smoke coming from the lil hole were you put yoyr finger over to hold a vacuum to test the disa beat way i can describe leak
My O2 monitor is not ready for smog and I checked my live data with the scanner. It is showing both B1S2 and B2S2 in Voltage and jumping 4.5 to 9.0V, but my precat O2 B1S1 and B2S1 are in mV and slightly moving from -0.00 to 0.009 mV. Why my precat O2 are in mV not Volt. I also have error code P0174 only which is Blank 2 too lean. No vac leak found. And only O2 is not ready for smog. Please advice. Thanks
Yo I'm going crazy right now trynna find my vacuum leak just replaced my ccv for no reason 😒 did a smoke test holds pressure no leaks same as you. but I'm getting P1520 cam sensor b actuator lean codee??? I also hear the dreaded hissing from the intake are tested the disa works as well . Idk what it could be going nuts here!
From your experience 50skid, how long does the e46 cars last? How many miles ? I have one that has 190k miles on it and I'm having this issue also where my rpms are bouncing and I have no power when flooring it. This issue began after a paid a shop to replace my ccv but I guess they did a bad job because I had a bunch of codes when I got the car back. I know I should've said something to the shop but I gave them the parts to do the job and they can just say I bought the wrong parts. Lastly, I have some of the same codes as you. Is it worth putting the time and money into fixing it ? If anybody has any input on this, feel free to comment.
I'm wondering if you have any suggestions or clues as to why my catalytic monitor is "not ready " or possible causes for it not running, besides the drive cycle, because for sure that's not it. I've been told it could be an intake leak but have no idea how to check for that, by the way no CEL. But I did check the temp of the cats and one is running colder then the other. Any insights would be appreciated.
i dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly forgot the password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me
@Jordan Rodney i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
The usual figure for long and short fuel trim when added is 10% so as you say the bank 2 is over that at 12%. So it is already showing signs of a bank 2 issue too.
The LTFT job is to keep the STFT as close to zero as possible. So when you add the 2 numbers together, the maximum % over 0% is 10%. so thats why I said that your figure of 12% on bank 2 was already over the maximum allowance for that bank to be classed as an issue. just because it didn't set a code, the numbers still show that bank 2 is running higher than it should.
Depends on the car. It's very unusual for a P0171 and P0174 to set below a total fuel trim of 20-25% or so for most cars. Every car is different of course. BMW has a whole bunch of other codes it likes to throw when fuel trims are in the 10-15% range though.
Hello, your long terms at half od video goes to 10% instantly, because Fuel corrections happens in so called cells. That is range in RPMs. Lets say 1st cell Is for idle, 2nd 1000-2000, 3rd 2000-4000 etc. Your corrections jumped to second cell as it was stored in freez frame. JUST fornsure, check RPM in freez frame. Each cell is re-learning independently. Am i correct here?
If that didn't fix it, change the DISA O ring. that what fixed mine.replacement I used was for water pump o ring from probe. it's like 5 dollars part at advance.
Play the M54 Game - "chase the vacuum leaks until you've replaced literally every pipe and plug and seal on the inlet manifold"😁 I recently discovered that the 2.5 uses the same manifold as the 3.0, but has rubber plugs on the unused vacuum lines. Guess where I had a leak...
man i was wishing you had p1189 only... thats been kicking my ass for about 2 months. it comes and goes. (any help would be appreciated! lol) love your vids !
My guess with an 1189 if you dont have a misfire you have a vac leak in the plug tube over one of the last 3 cylinders some sort of leak valve cover related if you're only popping a bank 2 code.
@50sKid When you try to diagnose vacuumleaks, you should always try to unhook the mass airflow sensor. i recently had a problem with my m54b30 where it sounded like it was only running on 3 cylinders but threw no codes, and after 2 hours of toubleshooting, when the bmw guy said we had to replace all sorts of valves, to fix all the vacuum leaks, i suggested we should unplug the mass airflow sensor, because after that the engine wouldn't run off these values. So if it is a vacuum leak, the engine should run with the exhaust gas values and actually run just fine. In the end i just had to replace the mass airflow sensor, which i had replaced only 8000 km earlier. but its always worth a try, because you can rule out all sorts of problems.
also i just replaced the timingchane on my mums car(n46). at first it ran like shit, but when i switched the ignitioncoil, which had the problem, it ran smooth again.
ok, i wrote this about 18 minutes into your video, but keep this in mind. the BMW guy was actually stunned, that my mass airflow sensor died without causing a code and he had no idea, how to fix my problem
Actually when you unplug the mass air flow sensor the car still remains in closed loop (meaning it's listening to the o2 sensors and adjusting fuel trims)--it just substitutes a value for the incoming air mass and uses other sensors to make a good guess as to how much air is coming in. But, if you have a bad MAF, and you unplug it and see that the car runs better, hey, ya found your problem. Good job!
I think maybe I have the same thing, I get PO171, but not PO174. Did you replace the sucking jet pump, or just the hoses connected to it? As far as I can tell, it is just a fancy tee fitting with some one-way air seals. Thanks, Rob
I started the engine with the glove on top 🤪👻🔨 it sucked the hose in and engine died .. so lucky i got clamp over it and it didn’t suck the glove all the way in the engine 👻 It’s common seance but I spent so much time to find the vacuum leak I didn’t think straight anymore 😜
Just went to mechanic did real smoke 💨 check and didn’t find anything, check engine pressure and fuel pump pressure all is fine but still code P0171 maybe the mass air flow sensor.. we spray cleaned the sensor lets see if it does anything also ordered new sensor too 🤪
Here he is testing for leaks to find that one spot. If you plan on keeping your BMW (or any car for that matter), best to just change all rubber hoses (anything rubber, vacuum lines, fuel lines, even windshield seal, window belt moulding (and any external rubber especially if parked outside) after 10 years, especially the smaller ones. They simply all go bad over time as rubber decays with time. AND do not forget to change out BMW's CCV kit (if yours is equipped) every 10 years as well, if not done sooner.
Makes total sense. I have a '03 E39 and plan to replace EVERY vacuum line as well as the CCV piping as it's not fun going in under the intake on these engines to do one replacement at a time.
Great vid mate , similar problem with a Z4 downunder , when idling & you press the brake pedal, revs increases to around 1200 so spraying that pump with brake cleaner gave it the same increase in revs , so now I know what to replace .. cheers mate , your Vid helped me heaps. 👍
Just did a smoke test on my 04 325Ci that has a nagging P0171 & P0174 codes. The ONLY leak I found was at the Sucking Jet Pump (part# 11617503621) at the exact same location as in the video! Since I've found no other leaks and my MAF sensor checks out okay I'm gonna order the part and hopefully it fixes the codes so I can get it to pass emissions inspection. Great Video!
Man I learn a lot from your videos. Thank you and keep them going!!
That is the vacuum booster hose and connects directly under the intake manifold in that exact center of the manifold. Literally right between cylinder 3 and 4 intake plenums. Why it only effects bank one has something to do with the firing order.
This KID ROCKS the REVS! THANKS BUDDY!
I have a 1998 BMW 540i. Went for a smog test. My hydrocarbons were high at 15mph test. HC- Measured 58, max is 49 in California. HC 25mph test measured 20, max is 33 (pass). I'm only 9 away form passing on the 15mph test. No check engine lights or codes. Car runs very well. two years ago it passed both easily. Would a cat clean in the gas help at all? What do recommend. Great videos, clear and informative. California is so strict.
Great that you found that leak. Looking forward to your next vid 👍🏼
Great video. I love the detailed explanations! Although I have a question now is it the overall total between short and long terms going up or down that will determine if it’s a vacuum leak or something else?
Wow.. Im having the same issue with sensor 2 bank 2.. I replaced a brand new from the dealership and I'm still getting a p0056 code .. I definitely need to do a smoke test.. where exactly is that brake booster hose located.. 2003 bmw X5 4.4 .??
Sucking jet pump tend to broke into two pieces where it's has been glued from the factory, most probably this one is broken too and leaking. You can try to glue it instead of ordering new one because it seems like easy fix and cheaper.
Dont dismiss the hose under the manifold that connects to the brake valve aswell they get hard overtime and leak on the joins or clamps cause of improper sealing
Check engine light came on, I took it to Autozone to get a read and they showed P0174 and also some secondary air pump code. I replaced a hose on the air pump that I knew was bad, and I inspected my disa valve o-ring. The disa valve was really easy to put back in; it didn't fight me at all. I ordered a new o-ring along with some new intake boots to go with. While waiting for the parts, my check engine light went away. I'll eventually replace that o-ring, but since the check engine light went away, I'm kind of unconcerned. My car is far from perfect. I'm just wondering why the check engine light would have gone away even though I didn't fix my vacuum leak.
Great job!!! Please make a video of the fixing I have the same problem with mine. Thanks again.
love the videos man! Super thorough.
Hi, I found my leak behind the maf,, the glove prevents you from seeing it. I sealed mine by placing wax from a toilet ring around the maf and putting the hose back on.
Hey Not Sure if il get a reply im chasing code p0174 and p0171 lean bank 1 and 2 on my m54b30 done a smoke test should my disa valve have smoke coming from the lil hole were you put yoyr finger over to hold a vacuum to test the disa beat way i can describe leak
My O2 monitor is not ready for smog and I checked my live data with the scanner. It is showing both B1S2 and B2S2 in Voltage and jumping 4.5 to 9.0V, but my precat O2 B1S1 and B2S1 are in mV and slightly moving from -0.00 to 0.009 mV. Why my precat O2 are in mV not Volt. I also have error code P0174 only which is Blank 2 too lean. No vac leak found. And only O2 is not ready for smog. Please advice. Thanks
Yo I'm going crazy right now trynna find my vacuum leak just replaced my ccv for no reason 😒 did a smoke test holds pressure no leaks same as you. but I'm getting P1520 cam sensor b actuator lean codee??? I also hear the dreaded hissing from the intake are tested the disa works as well . Idk what it could be going nuts here!
From your experience 50skid, how long does the e46 cars last? How many miles ? I have one that has 190k miles on it and I'm having this issue also where my rpms are bouncing and I have no power when flooring it. This issue began after a paid a shop to replace my ccv but I guess they did a bad job because I had a bunch of codes when I got the car back. I know I should've said something to the shop but I gave them the parts to do the job and they can just say I bought the wrong parts. Lastly, I have some of the same codes as you. Is it worth putting the time and money into fixing it ? If anybody has any input on this, feel free to comment.
Thanks for the plain English trims explanation
I've a bmw 2003 325 coupe how can I replace pcv valve? Maybe you can help on this please
I'm wondering if you have any suggestions or clues as to why my catalytic monitor is "not ready " or possible causes for it not running, besides the drive cycle, because for sure that's not it.
I've been told it could be an intake leak but have no idea how to check for that, by the way no CEL. But I did check the temp of the cats and one is running colder then the other. Any insights would be appreciated.
Interesting! Loving this series Jason.
i dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly forgot the password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me
@Grant Joseph instablaster =)
@Jordan Rodney i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Jordan Rodney it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my ass :D
@Grant Joseph glad I could help :D
Good Video. May I ask which flashlight you are using?
I use these: amzn.to/2zlevrz
*Same Part gives from VW. 113 901 Part Number. If this component is broken, it makes rpm fluctuations...*
Why I'm getting much fuel on the the throttle tube intake second tiny hose
The usual figure for long and short fuel trim when added is 10% so as you say the bank 2 is over that at 12%. So it is already showing signs of a bank 2 issue too.
The usual figure for long and short trim when added is 0% -- anything above that indicates a problem--just a question of how big a problem!
The LTFT job is to keep the STFT as close to zero as possible. So when you add the 2 numbers together, the maximum % over 0% is 10%. so thats why I said that your figure of 12% on bank 2 was already over the maximum allowance for that bank to be classed as an issue. just because it didn't set a code, the numbers still show that bank 2 is running higher than it should.
Depends on the car. It's very unusual for a P0171 and P0174 to set below a total fuel trim of 20-25% or so for most cars. Every car is different of course. BMW has a whole bunch of other codes it likes to throw when fuel trims are in the 10-15% range though.
Great video I have P2098 only , you think is air leak causes this code, please help
Great vid, thx!
Hello, your long terms at half od video goes to 10% instantly, because Fuel corrections happens in so called cells. That is range in RPMs. Lets say 1st cell Is for idle, 2nd 1000-2000, 3rd 2000-4000 etc. Your corrections jumped to second cell as it was stored in freez frame. JUST fornsure, check RPM in freez frame. Each cell is re-learning independently. Am i correct here?
Yes that is true, I suppose I wasn't thinking about that. It's still a very unusual pattern to see (and it doesn't look like that now that it's fixed)
Had a vacuum leak and watched this video, funny enough it’s the same exact leak. Did you ever figure out what it was called?
Is this obd wifi or cable ?
Great video as usual!
If that didn't fix it, change the DISA O ring. that what fixed mine.replacement I used was for water pump o ring from probe. it's like 5 dollars part at advance.
If the DISA o-ring was bad, there definitely would have been smoke leaking from it.
50sKid, mine was a bit strange, had it smoked multiple times and no smoke showed up. once got that O ring replaced code never showed up again.
Maher
Looking at 16:16 it looks like the dipstick o-ring isn't fully seated. Might be the cause of the vacuum leak.
great work
By the way great videos. And I have a 2000 328i... Ty
Play the M54 Game - "chase the vacuum leaks until you've replaced literally every pipe and plug and seal on the inlet manifold"😁
I recently discovered that the 2.5 uses the same manifold as the 3.0, but has rubber plugs on the unused vacuum lines. Guess where I had a leak...
Mine is throwing P2098 (lean bank 2). I replaced the downstream O2 sensor and did not solve the problem. I think I have vacuum leak somewhere.
Where are those plugs located you ate talking aboutz i have po171 only.
man i was wishing you had p1189 only... thats been kicking my ass for about 2 months. it comes and goes. (any help would be appreciated! lol) love your vids !
My guess with an 1189 if you dont have a misfire you have a vac leak in the plug tube over one of the last 3 cylinders some sort of leak valve cover related if you're only popping a bank 2 code.
Romell Blanks if you're still having trouble comment I'll try to help you
@50sKid When you try to diagnose vacuumleaks, you should always try to unhook the mass airflow sensor. i recently had a problem with my m54b30 where it sounded like it was only running on 3 cylinders but threw no codes, and after 2 hours of toubleshooting, when the bmw guy said we had to replace all sorts of valves, to fix all the vacuum leaks, i suggested we should unplug the mass airflow sensor, because after that the engine wouldn't run off these values. So if it is a vacuum leak, the engine should run with the exhaust gas values and actually run just fine. In the end i just had to replace the mass airflow sensor, which i had replaced only 8000 km earlier. but its always worth a try, because you can rule out all sorts of problems.
also i just replaced the timingchane on my mums car(n46). at first it ran like shit, but when i switched the ignitioncoil, which had the problem, it ran smooth again.
ok, i wrote this about 18 minutes into your video, but keep this in mind. the BMW guy was actually stunned, that my mass airflow sensor died without causing a code and he had no idea, how to fix my problem
Actually when you unplug the mass air flow sensor the car still remains in closed loop (meaning it's listening to the o2 sensors and adjusting fuel trims)--it just substitutes a value for the incoming air mass and uses other sensors to make a good guess as to how much air is coming in. But, if you have a bad MAF, and you unplug it and see that the car runs better, hey, ya found your problem. Good job!
good job and thank u
I have a problem when i turn my steering wheel rpm is droping???
dairis rūnis power steering pump
damn no luck with brake boost line mine held vacuum pretty good
My idle is right above the 500 mark. The idle is smooth tho its a 320i 2001 is it normal? If i put it in drive the idle goes a bit lower
Da Maestro the normal value for your car is 700-750 RPM whitout AC
damn haha the sucking jet valve i just replaced that thing in my car 2 weeks ago yours ain't that bad cause on my car it was setting on both banks
cool. now I want to do this on my car and see how it performs.
seriously good video
I think maybe I have the same thing, I get PO171, but not PO174. Did you replace the sucking jet pump, or just the hoses connected to it? As far as I can tell, it is just a fancy tee fitting with some one-way air seals.
Thanks,
Rob
I ended up just replacing the clamps around the hoses on that line.
damn it, upload part 2! enquiring minds want to know!
img.memecdn.com/i-amp-039-m-suck-her-k-and-i-amp-039-m-a-man_c_2729857.jpg
What if it’s only bank 2
Godthis same car w a vacuum leak so this is perfect
I started the engine with the glove on top 🤪👻🔨 it sucked the hose in and engine died .. so lucky i got clamp over it and it didn’t suck the glove all the way in the engine 👻 It’s common seance but I spent so much time to find the vacuum leak I didn’t think straight anymore 😜
Just went to mechanic did real smoke 💨 check and didn’t find anything, check engine pressure and fuel pump pressure all is fine but still code P0171 maybe the mass air flow sensor.. we spray cleaned the sensor lets see if it does anything also ordered new sensor too 🤪
@@worldfitnesstrainerradekve9234have you some news?
Why not just use ISTA-D? ;)
+Sebastian99 because it takes up like 100 gigs and you need an icom cable apparently. The setup I have works well enough.
The usual INPA cable works fine with ISTA for me. ISTA-D is tiny compared to ISTA-P. Thats a real storage maniac.
im finna blow smoke in brake booster rn hold up 🤨