One thing that stands out here it that you are not drawing a center line to any of the parts :) That's one of the most useful tips when making instruments. It really helps aligning the neck, bridge&tailpiece and other stuff.
Really enjoying these videos. Don't worry about the asymmetic the body. The critical thing is the nut, bridge and fret alignment. Nut and bridge parallel (for low G), square and centered on a center line. Line up the tops of the frets with a straight edge. File down (and round) any high frets. Get these right and you'll have a nice playing instrument. The bridge may end up slightly off center, but nobody makes a perfect instrument the first time. Thanks for the videos!
for a project like that, the build is usually a ways ahead of the video. It's too easy to get ahead on the build. three quarters of the work is video editing and writing.
Looking good so far. Your gauge measurements shows off your mad genius which is always fun. In this case, the external mold would have made it unnecessary. I have actually used an external mold (when I built years ago) to shape the two side strips (wet) connected by the end block and the neck on the other end. Then attach the cross braces and the back panel. Once the glue dries, you can remove it from the mold and it will retain it's shape. To keep it perfect, flip it around and slide back in the mold. Now complete the top with it's braces. Finally, add the fret board across the neck and top, and finish it up.
zygrottwanger is correct. Truss rods aren't used in Ukuleles. However, some builders epoxy carbon fiber rods into their necks, behind the fret board. However, this isn't for tensioning, it is to increase the stability of the neck.
Thanks again! As a self studied amateur "luthier", I love KNOW HOW! Great instruction! I recommend you to any of my droogs that want "ball bearing basic" know how based in GEOMETRY, simple and DIRECT. Please keep your experience flowing as it benefits the Practical Inventor.
Short answer is yes, some uke builders put the necks on a slight angle. With neck angle the objective is to end up with the correct action (~3/32" @ 12th fret) and string height above the body. This can be achieved with the neck at zero angle when the fret board is around 1/4", or, as you suggest, with a slight angle in which case the fret board would probably have to be thinner. You can also adapt the bridge/saddle height a little to match what neck angle you are using. It all works.
Mr. Wandel, I do know that you are experimenting with that ukulele (nice project, by the way). I still have one question : guitars have a rod into the fretboard to adjust tension on the board. Shouldn't a ukulele have one too?
I love your video. I'm heading out to carve a neck or two for ukulele #4, and you've given me some great ideas. What angle do you use for the bandsaw table when sawing the heel/ sides of the neck? The tablesaw cutting of the scarf joint made me nervous. OK, full honesty, I had a metal clamp touch the blade of my sawstop and WOW! You obviously aren't the klutz that I am. But I now use a cheap wooden parallel clamp and the saw blade goes through that and it's no problem. Thanks for your video!
I think your videos are brilliant Matthias, my favourite on RUclips. I've never considered building a musical instrument until now. Ignore the silly comments bud :-)
How about extending the neck all the way through the body as a single piece of wood? That might increase rigidity and be easier to build. IANAL (I am not a Luthier)
Great project, Matthias, fun to watch. I like the parallel documentation of your and Pat's progress. (The fifth to last photo seems to be missing on pat_neck.html)
nice, a glued-up neck saves so much wood, you can practically use cheap scraps to make a guitar, tops and backs also, that way rather than order expensive chunks of wood.
Stephen McLean Learn how to play Ukulele Online! Play all of your favorite songs with our easy step by-step video lessons! Go here ==> rocketukulele-new2.blogspot.com/
Hi M all my work would be perfect if is wasn't for the 3/4 mm play , you only showed that part to make the rest of us feel better didn't you, more power to your elbow, G
made my comment in the middle of watching it. i was 3 view. I try to make comments on all new videos some people like the feed back . No need to see it all to see it looks like fun but i did watch the rest after i made my comment.
I'm too much of a purist to ever use metal hardware to attach the neck to the body. Ukulele strings aren't steel so they don't put that much tension on the neck. The mortise by itself, or a dovetail, or even dowels would be sufficient with that nice of a fit. I've seen others use hanger bolts and I cringe every time. I need that pantograph though. :-)
Nice work Matthias, but I have to say that I worry about your fingers and that table saw. I was certain that the blade was going to catch the clamp when you were cutting the scarf joint. Be safe man so that you can continue to make beautiful things!
The use of white oak for a stringed musical instrument is a novel idea and certainly a departure from tradition - oak is NEVER used and I suppose that it was always regarded as "poor" tone wood.
Don't get me wrong - I admire your first uke build and have no problem with oak as a wood to be used or any other reasonable substitute. It's just that luthiers tend to be snobby about wood selection. I have an instructional video series by Bob Benedetto on archtop guitar construction and early on in the video, he opines that "There's no such thing as 'bad tone wood'. OK, now that I opened the door, there's no such thing as 'BAD WOOD', maybe", and he was making the point that wood selection is often overestimated and the history of violin making (which he also does) has instruments substituting poplar for maple and luthiers were often at the mercy of what was available to them at a given time. Bob also made the point by building an archtop guitar with its top carved from standard knotted pine available at home centers rather than traditional select spruce, and he reports that it sounds just as good. It's all in the construction and voicing of the wood components.
Sorry but it has to be said: that's a dangerous way to cut using a table saw. It's just bad practice.No way should you be using a metal clamp anywhere near that blade. Only takes one mistake.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
One thing that stands out here it that you are not drawing a center line to any of the parts :) That's one of the most useful tips when making instruments. It really helps aligning the neck, bridge&tailpiece and other stuff.
I ended up not using any drywall screws, although I did use some painted sheet metal screws later.
You're like a magician. So many tricks up your sleeve I can't even count. Making a wood-tap out of a screw - yeah!
pantorouter is amazing!!! Great job. Can't wait to keep on clicking and hear how the ukulele sounds.
I have been thinking about that actually. But that introduces issues of it's own as well.
Nice video. I have yet to start building my first ukulele, but attaching the neck has me the most concerned of any of the building process.
Really enjoying these videos.
Don't worry about the asymmetic the body. The critical thing is the nut, bridge and fret alignment. Nut and bridge parallel (for low G), square and centered on a center line. Line up the tops of the frets with a straight edge. File down (and round) any high frets. Get these right and you'll have a nice playing instrument.
The bridge may end up slightly off center, but nobody makes a perfect instrument the first time.
Thanks for the videos!
for a project like that, the build is usually a ways ahead of the video. It's too easy to get ahead on the build. three quarters of the work is video editing and writing.
Looking good so far. Your gauge measurements shows off your mad genius which is always fun. In this case, the external mold would have made it unnecessary. I have actually used an external mold (when I built years ago) to shape the two side strips (wet) connected by the end block and the neck on the other end. Then attach the cross braces and the back panel. Once the glue dries, you can remove it from the mold and it will retain it's shape. To keep it perfect, flip it around and slide back in the mold. Now complete the top with it's braces. Finally, add the fret board across the neck and top, and finish it up.
for your next project you should attempt an acoustic guitar, full size. Really enjoy your videos, please keep them coming!
Impressive ! experienced cutting too. Matthias, I have to say you are a master craftsman. I was enlightened with the pantorouter.
zygrottwanger is correct. Truss rods aren't used in Ukuleles. However, some builders epoxy carbon fiber rods into their necks, behind the fret board. However, this isn't for tensioning, it is to increase the stability of the neck.
Lots of good sawing and gluing setups in this video.
Thanks again! As a self studied amateur "luthier", I love KNOW HOW! Great instruction! I recommend you to any of my droogs that want "ball bearing basic" know how based in GEOMETRY, simple and DIRECT. Please keep your experience flowing as it benefits the Practical Inventor.
Can't wait to hear what it sound like.
Ever consider getting a transfer punch set? Lee Valley has a 28 piece set for ~$17. I find they leave a better mark than an equivalent drill bit.
Short answer is yes, some uke builders put the necks on a slight angle. With neck angle the objective is to end up with the correct action (~3/32" @ 12th fret) and string height above the body. This can be achieved with the neck at zero angle when the fret board is around 1/4", or, as you suggest, with a slight angle in which case the fret board would probably have to be thinner. You can also adapt the bridge/saddle height a little to match what neck angle you are using. It all works.
i love that big hex nut on your assembly table. what size is it? i want one
This series continues to be amazing...
I think most ukuleles don't. shorter fret board, less tension in the strings, and only four of them.
I don't understand., you're going to put the neck together again after closing it up? or were you talking about how it should have been?
As I said in the accompanying article, that wasn't the best order to do it in.
Mr. Wandel, I do know that you are experimenting with that ukulele (nice project, by the way). I still have one question : guitars have a rod into the fretboard to adjust tension on the board. Shouldn't a ukulele have one too?
That looks like fun!
sorry if I ask again matthias..
Is there apossibility to have plans somewhere to build the ukulele ?
Ago
Boy there's a lot of work in that uke. Good job on it.It looks nice.
Favorite Matthias quote, "It would be a good fit... if it didn't have 3/4 mm of play."
That was a funny one for sure.
Always fun to watch your work.
I love your video. I'm heading out to carve a neck or two for ukulele #4, and you've given me some great ideas. What angle do you use for the bandsaw table when sawing the heel/ sides of the neck?
The tablesaw cutting of the scarf joint made me nervous. OK, full honesty, I had a metal clamp touch the blade of my sawstop and WOW! You obviously aren't the klutz that I am. But I now use a cheap wooden parallel clamp and the saw blade goes through that and it's no problem.
Thanks for your video!
I think your videos are brilliant Matthias, my favourite on RUclips. I've never considered building a musical instrument until now. Ignore the silly comments bud :-)
How about extending the neck all the way through the body as a single piece of wood? That might increase rigidity and be easier to build. IANAL (I am not a Luthier)
Great project, Matthias, fun to watch. I like the parallel documentation of your and Pat's progress.
(The fifth to last photo seems to be missing on pat_neck.html)
nice, a glued-up neck saves so much wood, you can practically use cheap scraps to make a guitar, tops and backs also, that way rather than order expensive chunks of wood.
This is definitely an advanced woodworking project. It would be simpler to build the pantorouter or a bandsaw.
Not quite a Luthier yet, but cool work. Interesting approach on some things so far, can't wait to see it finished.
That is what's called a through-neck and is better for tuning stability, but as Matthias says it introduces another set of problems.
Love watching your videos!
olá! você poderia me enviar as medidas exatas para eu construir um ukelele?
Looking forward to next video.
Pat wasn't entirely kidding when he said 200 hours!
Coming along great.
8:50 is pretty long for a RUclips video
Acoustic guitars with steel strings do. but since the ukulele has nylon strings which means less tension most ukes don't but some do.
Would you sell it
Muito legal meu irmão. Eu também to enventando de construir estrumentos depois tu ver lá e da umas dicas pra mim melhorar mais
oops - just fixed that.
Great Video - Good Idea to clamp the neck on to a block of wood to cut the taper...
Stephen McLean Learn how to play Ukulele Online! Play all of your favorite songs with our easy step by-step video lessons!
Go here ==> rocketukulele-new2.blogspot.com/
Aloha From South Carolina !
I have never had a ukulele kick back on me.
Muito boa matéria. tirei muitos proveitos. Obrigado.!
Hmm, this from a guy whose picture has chopsticks up his nose?
Made me uneasy too.
it wasn't a complaint.... i just enjoyed the video :)
In the future, these instruments will simply be known as "Wandels". Example: "Do you play a Gibson? No, I only play Wandels."
I think spanish heel is more simple in this case
Hi M all my work would be perfect if is wasn't for the 3/4 mm play , you only showed that part to make the rest of us feel better didn't you,
more power to your elbow,
G
made my comment in the middle of watching it. i was 3 view. I try to make comments on all new videos some people like the feed back . No need to see it all to see it looks like fun but i did watch the rest after i made my comment.
Nice
damn... I wanna watch more...
I love sundays :)
Harbor Freight has a transfer punch set for less than $10.
it's on his site- woodgears dot ca - but you have to search for it, I think.
very nice, but the episodes are too short...
I do not find in his website
that's why I ask..
Ago
I'm too much of a purist to ever use metal hardware to attach the neck to the body. Ukulele strings aren't steel so they don't put that much tension on the neck. The mortise by itself, or a dovetail, or even dowels would be sufficient with that nice of a fit. I've seen others use hanger bolts and I cringe every time. I need that pantograph though. :-)
Actually, I accidentally put a steel string on it for one of the strings, and it's very satisfying. Tempting to restring the whole thing in steel.
Mini guitar? I've thought about that too. They can tend to warp the neck though. Maybe using ultra-lights would be ok.
Nice work Matthias, but I have to say that I worry about your fingers and that table saw. I was certain that the blade was going to catch the clamp when you were cutting the scarf joint. Be safe man so that you can continue to make beautiful things!
give us the templates :)
Yes
I meant neck, not fretboard, sorry.
The use of white oak for a stringed musical instrument is a novel idea and certainly a departure from tradition - oak is NEVER used and I suppose that it was always regarded as "poor" tone wood.
duh. That's why I didn't use it for the sound board.
Don't get me wrong - I admire your first uke build and have no problem with oak as a wood to be used or any other reasonable substitute. It's just that luthiers tend to be snobby about wood selection. I have an instructional video series by Bob Benedetto on archtop guitar construction and early on in the video, he opines that "There's no such thing as 'bad tone wood'. OK, now that I opened the door, there's no such thing as 'BAD WOOD', maybe", and he was making the point that wood selection is often overestimated and the history of violin making (which he also does) has instruments substituting poplar for maple and luthiers were often at the mercy of what was available to them at a given time. Bob also made the point by building an archtop guitar with its top carved from standard knotted pine available at home centers rather than traditional select spruce, and he reports that it sounds just as good. It's all in the construction and voicing of the wood components.
Those are pencils
Bagus
I was more worried he ruin an good table saw blade...
Well...that's different then.
Disappointed about that fist gluing.. only one clamp.. you are slipping!!
Pencils.All I heard was wibble wibble wibble wibble London wibble wibble wibble.
Sorry but it has to be said: that's a dangerous way to cut using a table saw. It's just bad practice.No way should you be using a metal clamp anywhere near that blade. Only takes one mistake.
Oak is NOT a tone wood. Christ, cabinet makers...
Indeed. That's why I didn't use it for the sound board.
did you even watch the video wtf