Tesla wind noises revisited. Problem solved. Finally!

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  • Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
  • I just made another video. First look at this video at this starting point to refresh of what I'm going to fix. • Tesla Wind Noises Solv...
    This is the gap that I'm going to fix. I tried and tried and tried to insert that into the glass on the B pillar, it would not reach enough. So I decided to get a small piece of round window seal cut it to fit into the small gap I had inside, Push it into the gap underneath the rubber seals, then essentially glue the rubbers on the outside together anyplace I saw a gap remaining. I cover it in more detail in this video I just made: • Tesla wind noises revi...
    Another thought that I forgot to mention:
    Check both the front and back of the B Pillar "glass" where the rubber is supposed to FULLY seat and FULLY seal. I had gaps both front and back. Close those gaps however you can. I finally filled any larger gap with pieces of tubular window rubber, then I GLUED it shut with a adhesive made for weather stripping.
    If you have any more questions shoot me a text message at:
    (6+1))0neNine dash 244 dash (6+1)0neTwo Four
    Kindly Like and Subscribe
    I'd like to monetize some day for all the work I'm sharing.
    Thank you
    Sincerely,
    George Borrelli

Комментарии • 29

  • @TheDrivenDave
    @TheDrivenDave 11 месяцев назад +6

    Keep it up George! It took me 3 years and over 300 videos to monetize. You’ll get there if you keep at it. Your videos are great!

  • @jacobheinz8236
    @jacobheinz8236 9 месяцев назад +1

    New subscriber! Keep it up, George! Easy to understand.

  • @nooshiofficial
    @nooshiofficial 11 месяцев назад +2

    Fantastic and informative. Thanks!

  • @vpnconsult
    @vpnconsult 7 месяцев назад +1

    Thank you for sharing!

  • @bklyncyclist
    @bklyncyclist 6 месяцев назад

    I just added the noise reduction kit from RPMTesla. What neither you nor the kit does is to add additional rubber under the lip of the window seal at the top. I found it just doesn't seal up enough, especially in the corner. I took some of the leftover seal from the kit and just stuffed it in there around the corner. It now presses firmly against the window and doesn't seem to get in the way of the operation. After doing all this I still haven't taken it out on the open highway at 70+mph to see if it works because there is no such thing in NYC. I'd have to go to New Jersey and I just haven't had a chance.

    • @georgeborrelli3134
      @georgeborrelli3134  6 месяцев назад

      Very good job. Have you seen my video on shimming? I developed a method to test where the seal isn't up enough/ close enough. And with the shim, inserted behind the rubber, it seals tighter. It's a pretty good fix, if I say so myself. That's in effect what I think you've accomplished, I think. So you've done it your own way, I think. Check it out in case you have any more to do. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/yda_Ky0i2So/видео.htmlsi=FWxpRZnHtwk3UMpr

  • @creatorex1
    @creatorex1 Месяц назад

    I see you changed the rubber but is not well adjusted yet. Take a look in the interior upper corner is not well positioned yet. Glass pitch and door readjustment can help but not misaligning panels ✨

  • @Patriot3
    @Patriot3 4 месяца назад

    I thought the fix was to use 1/4" tube placed inside the rubber seal to expand the seal. I saw a video that the new teslas were built this way.

    • @georgeborrelli3134
      @georgeborrelli3134  4 месяца назад

      I could only fit quite thin material on the outside of the metal rail, to push the oem rubber surround out to the window just a bit.

  • @user-mv5kx3zc9r
    @user-mv5kx3zc9r 7 месяцев назад +1

    Thank you

    • @georgeborrelli3134
      @georgeborrelli3134  7 месяцев назад

      You are welcome. Give me a like and subscribe if you like. I hope to be posting more information on other Tesla discoveries. Thank you

    • @user-mv5kx3zc9r
      @user-mv5kx3zc9r 7 месяцев назад +1

      Yes sir I did.

  • @chaduhtimm8768
    @chaduhtimm8768 9 месяцев назад +1

    Sub’d. Keep up the videos!

  • @leetjn5663
    @leetjn5663 8 месяцев назад

    Did you seal up just the b pillar? Or did you go around the top of the seal too?

    • @georgeborrelli3134
      @georgeborrelli3134  8 месяцев назад

      Final solution was to shim anyplace around the top of the door and the door/ B pillar vertical area. I did that AFTER tightening the door and window a bit and replacing the entire door rubber surround. And make sure the rubber is properly seated all the way around. I also tried to seal at the top of the B pillar but I don't think that's where most of the wind sound comes from. Now that my front window / door area are relatively wind noise free, I notice that I'm actually hearing wind noise from the back seat window/door behind the driver's seat. I haven't gone after that, because the wind noise is not bad anymore and I've been working on other noise by using sound dampening mats and sound absorbing materials. That will ultimately be a video, I just haven't drawn enough conclusions to offer to the public as yet.

  • @DerrickAgtarap
    @DerrickAgtarap 9 месяцев назад

    To move that hinge inward, what torx size do I need to loosen the two things before I tap it closer?

    • @georgeborrelli3134
      @georgeborrelli3134  9 месяцев назад

      I used a hard rubber dead blow hammer. You can use a rubber mallet.
      Be really careful. Mark the OEM original factory location. I used electrical tape to mark the edges. Go slowly. You don't want to move it very much at all. 1/16th inch or something, barely any movement. If you move it too much the door won't be able to latch closed. In that case you'll have to move it back out a bit.
      This is an example of a dead blow hammer.
      www.harborfreight.com/4-lb-neon-orange-dead-blow-hammer-69004.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMTcyMDQ4MTIiLCJza3UiOiI2OTAwNCIsImlzIjoiMTEuNjkifQ%3D%3D&campaignid=20733947471&adsetid=155563054496&product=69004&store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtJKqBhCaARIsAN_yS_kgvWr5a87pn5hfdRJ3dmU5f_1xe7YR_LmFSwzWnTOjr_PyEx3KOBgaAi3-EALw_wcB

  • @justu2bnit17
    @justu2bnit17 7 месяцев назад

    Please watch successful RUclipsrs with impressive numbers of subscribers. Not only do they put out informative content (like you) but they use stabilized quality cameras, multiple angles, aesthetically pleasing cuts, clean audio, rehearsed and re-shot takes, lighting, mixing, etc.. Hours of detailed work goes into just a few minutes of content. And it shows. And it’s not easy. And it’s rewarded. And it gets better over time. Work on that portion of your content and you will reap more rewards than begging for subscribers.

    • @georgeborrelli3134
      @georgeborrelli3134  7 месяцев назад +1

      Thank you, understood

    • @pandabear2cute4u
      @pandabear2cute4u 6 месяцев назад

      Lol, so your advice is to take a ~5 minute video that might take ~30 minutes to film, edit, and upload and suggest that he at least double his time invested? George, I’ve seen a few of your videos now and they’ve all had quality information, keep it up, I for one appreciate what you’re doing, exactly the way you’re doing it.

    • @justu2bnit17
      @justu2bnit17 6 месяцев назад

      @@pandabear2cute4u Yes.. Exactly right.. In his video he begged for subscribers. It is better to earn them. Do you watch TV or go to the occasional movie? Imagine those done in a selfy style using a shaky cell phone in poor lighting, with bad sound, no script, practice or editing. If he wants subscribers so he can monetize his efforts, he needs to put in the effort. It’s not easy.

  • @pibblesnbits
    @pibblesnbits 5 месяцев назад

    Shouldn't need to make fixes like this. The car has some very poorly engineering aspects.