I just watched Taryl's video after I finished this, was GREAT seeing the collaboration between all of Y'all. I guess everyone has a "Customer" like Slippers, LOL.
as well as find another one if that is even possible and install it where the back one should go and i think he needs a small one for another hole behind that even so it seems
Make sure you get the old grease out first... It may stop the seals leaking. When you make a starting handle you should cut a notch out with the forward cut at an angle. That way when the engine fires it will push the starting handle off rather than catch it and spin it
@@jlucasound I saw one once where you would wind a belt around the flywheel. I see that access is partially blocked, but maybe it isn't supposed to be. The mount looks fairly recent.
What an excellent video! For someone with little experience on these engines, you did a great job. And yes, I was talking to the screen many times. I've worked on very similar engines and while I'm sure I'll get crucified for these comments, here we go: That is a carburetor. The valve in there is actually the main check valve for the engine, no valves inside the block. The porting is as you describe. Piston draws in the fuel/air mixture as the piston goes up and then pushes it into the combustion chamber as the piston goes down. 2-cycles. The one adjustment is the needle, lean is in, richer is out. Usually, you adjust them rich for slower speeds and lean it somewhat for higher speeds. The packing nuts hold everything in place and need to be relatively tight or the engine vibration will change all the settings almost instantly. That "cough" or "sneeze" you heard several times is actually a backfire (and what probably caused all the carbon around the check valve years ago). If the engine does that, richen it up a bit. These old engines will "talk" to you and you'll figure out what it needs. Probably where that plug is on the top of the carb before it enters the block, there was a petcock that you could fill, twist open to let the fuel into the crankcase, to prime it as you described. The rod with the handle is called the timer. Like you deduced, it has points that ground the coil to cause it to generate a spark. The engine will run in either direction, doesn't matter except how the timer is set. The points close dependent on the position of that lever. If the flywheel is spinning clockwise, if the lever is to the right, the points close after the piston is past TDC or the points are retarded. Moving the timer to the left advances the time when the points close before TDC and advances the timing. Hand cranked engines like to be started with the timing retarded, it's safer and they're easier to start. You advance the timing once they're running and warming up. If the timing is too far advanced at slow speeds, the engine will slow down and can kick backwards and run the opposite way. Or, it can break the wrist of the person trying to start it. The coil is a Model T style coil. When you pulled the cover off, you pulled away what appeared to be melted tar. That is from the area where the condenser/capacitor is located, indicating that the condenser/capacitor overheated and is probably not any good. There are many videos on how to replace them and it's simple. Make sure you use to correct value and type of replacement or you'll be fighting with a bad coil. Yes, that's a grease cup to force grease into the main bearing. Probably another one should be on the other end, though since the engine would tilt that way in a boat, they may have thought it would get splash lubrication from the puddle of oil that will collect in the crankcase (no pressure lube but when the engine running, the crankcase has a mist of gas/oil in there and the oil will drop to the sump when the engine is stopped). And yes, probably all the gaskets need to be replaced or that bolts tightened, depends. You're smart and will figure it out. Can't wait to see what you do next with it. Nice engine for sure.
Isn't that called an updraft carb? Jay Leno talks about them sometimes. He says part of their function is to dump excess fuel safely to the ground rather than creating a fire hazard amongst other problems. That explains why the air port comes up from the bottom. It needs no air cleaner because its expecting to be in a non-dusty marine environment.
"The rod with the handle is called the timer. Like you deduced, it has points that ground the coil to cause it to generate a spark. The engine will run in either direction, doesn't matter except how the timer is set" Fairmont motors in rail inspection cars are similar. On the small cars there's no transmission, so direction of flywheel rotation determines whether you go forwards or back-up. The timing lever determines direction. I've run those rail cars, and if you are good enough, you can reverse direction by killing the voltage in wire to the buzz coil, wait until the motor is just about to stop turning, throw the timing lever to the other side, engage the wire to the coil and Bob's your Uncle, the engine will run in the opposite direction without having to crank it Crankcase seals are a big deal on these motors. If you can figure out a way to keep them air tight, that will be a great little motor.
Mustie, you deserve the "PERSISTENCE OF THE CENTURY AWARD" I have watched many of your videos and I have never seen anyone with more determination to get some old rejected broken motorized device running again! If anyone agrees, give a thumbs up for Mustie!
I Had one of those in an ancient sailboat years ago, when I was just a kid. Planned on living on it cruising the Caribbean for a few years, to avoid high school.I never got it running and when the marina sold out to a big developer, I wasnt able to get the boat moved, so I lost it. This was the very curt instructions I got from the dinosaur that sold it to me: "Runs on same oil as lights and heater.. (kerosene?) This things your timing. (that lever) This way (right) goes forward, other way, goes backward. Only use it for starting. otherwise, leave it be." He explained that the vessel had no electricity. There was a row of condensers or capacitors under the coil that would hold enough spark to get it started, then "Ya yank this wire" an actual solid wire - like a coat hanger, to the plug. It would diesel from there. "Turn this if it`s cold. Turn it back `fore ya yank that wire." Referring to the butterfly/thumb screw/knob closest to the engine - choke? "This one, how fast ya WANT it to turn." (numbered knob, on mixer). "The wind and the water - they gonna fight ya. This one here fights back - makes the thing go." (the "injector"). He said if it was weak, like running out of oil, hold yer tank higher. Higher tank means more fuel. To "Stop it turnin`", hold the float down, where it pokes through the cap. "Stop it `fore ya backward it. `Member it aint got no brakes." He quickly left me, bewildered, in my new home - without a good-bye, good luck or thank you, but from halfway up the dock yells back, like an after thought, "If fuel don`t go in it, grease does, , , or the water will."
This was the engine in our sail boat when my dad bought it in 1943. He replaced it when I was 6 with a 4 stroke so I dont know all the details for setting it to run. It ran a large propeler so he would set it at the slowest posible speed to fish. It would some times miss firing a cycle and nearby fisherman would holler when is that going to die.
As a mechanical engineer who regularly watches your videos, this has got to be one of my favorite one. The old technology that all the modern IC controls are based on was simple, but demanded more knowledge of how things worked and fundamental mechanics. I enjoyed your process of figuring out the air/fuel mixture process. What fun!
The simpler version of a mechanical device usually requires more knowledge or skill to operate, and the version that is easier to operate is usually much more complicated to work on. Look at how kids used to buy and then hot rod cars back when they were mechanically simple, but needed a whole arcane mountain of knowledge and experience to modify, tune and master. These guys hung out together and shared what they knew. It helped to draw them together. Now cars are so complex that even professional "shadetree" mechanics are starting to disappear, and the art of hot rodding has nearly died off compared to back in the 1950s and 1960s. The cars do more of the claculating and thinking for you to maximize efficiency and monitor faults. To work on the computerization of a car is an entire extra education aside from mechanics and rather unfriendly to learn under the hood in the driveway of your buddy's house.
There probably was one on the other side as well where that hole through to the bearing is. I had an old furnace in my house that had those grease caps for lubing the fan shaft.
I have been on this earth for 70 years and I get the most entertainment from your projects because I would do the same thing as you are doing from my 20’s to my late 50’s. There is just a satisfaction from taking something and making it better than when you found it. My father taught me that and it has always stuck with me. They did it out of necessity because of the depression so it just became second nature when I worked on the farm with my dad. Keep up the great projects.
I love the old engines, and it was really fun watching you figure out the buzz coil/battery system. Usually, these old 2 cycle engines used a 16:1 fuel to oil mixture, using 30 weight non-detergent oil. The modern purple 2 cycle oil is not appropriate, for it is designed for use with ball/roller bearings. The heavier 30 wt. helps seal air leakage in the old sleeve bearings.
I remember playing on a virtually identical engine with my Dad for hours in the garage, think that it was a 5HP Lister engine with a slightly larger flywheel. My job was to use the hand crank, where I first learnt NOT where to put my thumb as it kept kicking back so I have sympathy for your old drill there, and after six hours of cranking we finally got it going. After the fuel tank that first brass container was a float cum fuel filter. They used to build the coil in old chess boxes. My Grandfather used to make munitions during WW2 and the Ministry sent a lot of equipment his way. We ended up using that Lister with a vacuum pump for donkeys years to milk the Farms here of cows. That type of engine was used for just about everything from circa 1920 onwards..cheers for the memories
So much fun. These videos are like childbirth. We watch you labour for ages, willing you along from the edge of our seats. Congratulations, it’s a runner!!
Mustie, I bloody well LOVE watching you work through a problem such as this engine. Your diagnostic approach borders on scientific / medical, reducing everything to first principle before making a decision. Added to which, the "seat of your pants" tests involving gasoline and oil being squirted into carb or cylinder and spinning it up to see what happens. I'm always half expecting the damn thing to burst into flames or simply explode on the bench. But best of all, you talk to the viewer as if they are right there in the workshop ... and we are always answering your questions and comments as you progress! It makes for GREAT, entertaining, and informative viewing. Keep it up!!
The brass cap you unscrewed with the black stuff in it is a grease cup to feed grease to the timing end of the crank bearing. You are missing the grease cup that does the same thing on the output end of the crank. Also the carb needs to be sealed in the correct position. I would recommend using electrical conduit lock washers and conduit seals. The throttle is the adjustment on the top of the mixer and the mixture control is on the side. Great vid.
Yep, as I remember you filled the cup and gave it a twist as needed to force grease down the tube and into the bearing. I think I saw one of those on Abom’s channel.
@@yqwgjsg shopdogsam has a lifetime of antique engines yes it is a grease cup . smallenginemechanic has an antique engine with a similar carb that he reworked in a video
I love the way you laugh and don’t let yourself get frustrated and mad because it won’t start. That a great attribute to have. Your doing something you love. I admire that and if you were my neighbor I would be your friend because I can never get my pull mower to start after winter. Ha ha. Take care my friend👍🏻😊
Then thing in the wood box is called a Trembler coil. Inside is a coil and condenser. By using a vibrator circuit, you can generate the high voltage for your spark. I keep one on my bench to remind me how much fun old technology was.
This is a poppet valve carburetor, often found on early outboard motors. Suction from the crankcase allows atmospheric pressure to lift the valve up against the spring. When the valve is open, a metered amount of fuel is drawn along with the incoming air into the crankcase. When the valve closes, fuel flow stops.
Came here to say the same thing. It operates the same function as a reed valve on the more modern 2 strokes. When the Piston goes down, stops the pressure from blasting out of the carb.
Those coils work on 2, 4 or 6 volt lead acid batteries. Very rarely they worked on 2 large dry cells of 1,5v. Inside the coil, usually across the trembler contacts, there is a capacitor which usually fails after a few hours. The trembler contacts themselves are often dirty or pitted, and may need to be adjusted before it will buzz. 12v is way too much. Never use 12v. Also never run one of these coils without a spark plug connected.
Yeah, the main issue is getting rid of the potting material. It is doable by heating it in a sacrificial toaster oven at a low setting, but it's not a pleasant job at all.
Good stuff. I have a very similar engine that is a 1918 Kallee? 2 1/2 hp made in the USA. It belonged to my great grandfather and was used in an 18' fishing dory until about 1975. My grandfather used to have an old sandshoe that he would put on to kick start it. It has an ignition system called an exciter operated by a cam on the crankshaft that lifts a sliding yoke up and drops it through a cool to make the spark. Crank and bigend bearings are white metal and easily repaired. There are no crankshaft seals and it relies on snug bearings with a bit of grease to suck the fuel into the crankcase.
That old coil sure looks like the buzz box from a Ford Model T. You’re making progress. That was fun. Best get some water in the cooling jacket. Good luck.
Luckily I old enough to remember my granddad's small motor boat had this engines in it. In the mid 60s he finally decided to change the engine for a magneto ignition model. He used to buzz us with the box, then changed to booting us with the maggy, lol. The original was easy to get running provided you knew which adjustments to make at what time. Thanks for the memories Mustie!! 🇦🇺 🍺🍺
@@jlloyd2004mcs They'll win, no doubt. The first car I can remember riding in was a '52 Clipper. I hopped into the front seat one time, hit the shifter with my foot, and knocked it into reverse while doing 60 down the Pennsylvania Turnpike. We slid to a stop, dad got out and looked at everything, got in and put it back in drive, and we went on to Canada. The only damage was the flat spots on the rear tires....
Mustie1, I usually watch on my TV so I don't get a chance to comment but I love the videos. I've watched almost everything back to 4 years ago. I've fixed 3 of my own mowers just learning from you. Thanks so much and keep up the good work.
They got reverse by running the engine "backwards" that is it will run comfortably in either direction. I never ran one of these but they tell me you just slowed the engine right down, shifted the timing and it would go in the other direction. Our old boat had a one cylinder but four stroke engine with a gear box. . The coil (wooden box) just has the coil packed in pitch. No need to open it, Model T had four of those, one per cylinder. It is just an induction coil. The vibrating contacts give you a lot of spark and it needs maybe six volts to run. Coil should buzz when it's working. The set screw on the contacts is to adjust the oscillation. Thanks for the video; it brought back a flood of memories.
To start it I remember something about turning it slowly backwards against the compression till it fired sending it forward to supply the momentum to get everything going. Another great flick which had me screaming instructions to you leaving me laughing so hard. Don't ever get too old to enjoy stuffing around in the shed.
Hey Mustie lad, I found myself yelling at my laptop watching your super-valiant efforts-----AIR, AIR, AIR/fuel mix but you made it in the end! I always, always, always enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing, from an old Yorkshire "Geezer" in Ireland.
The arm connected behind the fly wheel is a spark advance. It should be more to the left anti clock wise to start giving less advance. After a few minutes and the engine is hot you can move it clockwise to increase the timing advance. The carburetor also should be adjusted to give more fuel. I think this originally ran on kerosine or A1 jet fuel.
Hell yea. Thanks for your ridgid Sunday Schedule. Here in the UK they land mid-morning and it has become part of my weekend. Mustie1 in the morning and sail life in the evening. Better than TV!
You were absolutely correct when you commented on the fact that a two stroke will run in both directions. Many years ago, here in the UK, disabled people were provided with horrible little three-wheeled cars. For quite a few years, these cars were powered by 147cc Villiers two-stroke engines, driving through a motorcycle type gearbox. The problem was, motorbikes didn't have a reverse gear. To solve the problem, the engines were fitted with a second set of points to allow it to run backwards. So, to engage 'reverse gear', you had to stop the engine and flick a switch, which selected the second set of points and reversed the direction of the starter motor. If you google 'Invacar', you can see these horrible little things.
The Bond three wheeler was even more radical.. It had a 225cc Villiers engine directly above the front wheel which could gimble almost 360 degrees. So just turn the steering wheel for 180 degrees, and the thing would be going backwards, or any combination in-between.
hi on the left where the water pump is there is a hole there shod be another grees cup like the other one on old engines like this their is no seals on the bottom end like on a moden 2 stroke so you need to put grees in the hole to stop the crank sucking air in regards bob
I agree with all of what rdg said. I would also say don’t run your voltage to the coil to high either because they ran in Model T’s and they ran on 6 volts. Inside the wooden box are two coils one primary to close the relay the points open and kicks the secondary coil to put out the high voltage to the plug. Your doing fine. Keep it up.
For anyone who thought Sherlock Holmes was a fictional character,we've just witnessed a perfect example of human deductive powers. 80 minutes just flew by.
That old engine brings back fond memories as a kid. My dad had the exact same old marine engine mounted on 2 pieces of wood in our basement. About once a year he would go down there and go through the long sequence of knobs and adjustments until it would fire up with a good pull on the flywheel. He would run it for about a half an hour then store it back away until the next time. And b.t.w - that engine will run backwards by moving the timing adjustment all the way to the other end and rolling the flywheel - i had seen him do it many times. Enjoyed the vid!
That's a grease cup. Fill it with grease then wind it back in. The more you wind it, the more grease gets pushed out towards the shaft. Had an old farm pumper motor that had a few grease cups.
i love all your videos but the old stuff is the best,,,,,we used some of them on our farm in the 50's and it brings back good memories. thanks for sharing
I learn something from watching these oddball engine videos every-single-time! It *is* much more fun to figure out instead of looking things up. Great job as always!
Mustie1: You bent the L shaped 'friction' plate on the needle valve adjuster (it rubs against the knurling on the edge of the brass screw) when you undid the flange nut to get it off. It will stop it turning, when you get that beautiful old engine refurbished. I was on edge until you finally clamped it to the table. Great perseverance! Great entertainment! Great comments from all those who have worked on these years ago.
20:20 i feel privileged that you "shared" that moment with us. I've seen buzz boxes on YT, and I've even seen teardowns of 'em, but did not know how to make 'em buzz, nor how to troubleshoot 'em.
Hi Mustie I enjoy these longer videos they give me a lot of happiness just watching you bring these projects back to life and giving them a purpose. Please keep on doing what your are doing.
Why is it so satisfying to take an old engine that hasn't run in years, and getting it to run? My Grandfather was born in 1901, and worked on engines from the time he was nine, until he retired in 1979, and was a first rate mechanic. My father was born in 1925, worked in his father's repair shops until he retired in 2010. He repairs farm tractors "on the side" today, at 96 years of age. My son, and step-son's are both excellent mechanics. As for me, I can fix just about any older engine, (without all this computer crap), but I was a Police Officer!
This has now become my favourite channel . I just LOVE the way you approach things . Much like a lot of us do . None of this , on you must torque this to this , and you must use this particular this for this . Just good old fashioned roll up the sleeves and make the darn thing work . Great work my friend , you earned another sub . Much love from the UK . x
I call it a air / fuel metering device! And that’s a grease packer , I use corn head grease and you load the cup and screw it on , by screwing it in it forces the grease onto the crank bushing . The cork floats are hard to find but if you go onto the AOMCI web page you might find parts !
Many years ago my dad told me about small Marine engines that the Navy used in their very small boats that ran both directions, and that would be the reason for a direct drive from the engine to the propeller. You could back the boat up. Just stop the engine and start it up backwards.
Hi Mustie. I have a 1950's generator. Lister Motor. It runs on diesel. Been rebuilding this for the last year. So really enjoying the vids. Also have a 3600 Ford tractor. This has a fuel line and injector problem. Just re build a kudu lawn mower. 1980's model. Love you vids.
Many early 2 stroke engines (example Fairmont Rail Inspection Cars) used a timing lever to alter the timing to allow it to be run in reverse thereby saving the need for a transmission reverse. If you're good at it you can switch it off then as it stops rotating move the lever and switch it back on to save a restart. Been there.
Nearly first...damn..The stem going down to the main bearing behind the flywheel is a built in grease gun..for greasing the front bearing, just turn it to pump grease..
Mustie you're missing a second grease injector on the rear bearing! Otherwise it won't get proper lube!!! It's got the front injector though, just pack it full of moly grease.
Grease cap on the front, for that bearing, screw it in for somewhat constant pressure(light)to keep the bearing lubed. Please re-route the ignition wire so it's not rubbing on the flywheel ;) And use teflon tape on the main threads of that fuel body to not only seal, but keep it away from that crank-bolt. Good job getting it going though, and playing w/ancient crap is my nirvana too ;)
I was surprised that Mustie didn't figure out that Grease Cup right off the bat. And I was pulling my hair out waiting for him to ADVANCE the timing....
@@BigMouth380cal On old cars that had the advance on the steering column that was standard practice for starting. I was yelling at the screen about the grease cup!!!
Hey Mustie, I think it would be great to learn a little bit about your background and how you came to making videos on RUclips. Love your stuff! Thank you!
I have watched one of those engine run on a small lake cruiser. It fired up both forwards and backwards. He moved the timing lever opposite to rotation of the fly wheel (far left clockwise, far right counter clockwise), and turned the wheel either way to start in forwards or reverse. It also had a small fluid clutch but it seemed more part of the boat than the engine. Great video! 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😎
I was guessing that it would run both ways, it only makes sense, what with no gearing how else would you back up. I used to work on gas powered golf carts, that did the same thing. Thanks for your comment!
The tag says well restored(nicely repainted?)yet there are parts missing.........well it is in good hands now, looking forward to the early 1900's motorized bike you build. You nailed it with this video, completely enjoyed watching,120 minutes goes by in the blink of an eye. Thanks for sharing
Some of the old timers in Newfoundland still use this type of engine they call it a make and brake, cause if you time it right it can be thrown into reverse which is handy when docking.
Went too NEWFOUNDLAND some years back, and there was a song about make and break harbour! The pic of me is there with an iceberg in the background! Drove there from Machias, Maine! Great fish and chips everywhere!
I love that that old engine was vibrating your table across the shop and threw a wrench on the floor. It was like the motor was saying "we don't need that any more, I'm good."
The grease cup by the fly wheel I think it lubs the bearing on that side and I think there should be another grease cup on the out put bearing as many years ago I had an old Stuart Turner marine engine very similar hope this helps from sunny Bulgaria.
At 41.37, that is the front main bearing grease cup, the rear one is missing. ( get some oil on it). The bit in the centre of the carb which seems to be stuck is a vacuum valve, opened and closed by crankcase pressure. The top screw limits the valve opening( air supply). Those engines were used in the old fishing boats, usually started by kicking across the top of the flywheel. Dry batteries powered the Model T ignition coil. The button on the top of the advance/retard lever ( is it stuck) should lock it in the run positions for forward/reverse.
The brass cap with the black goo inside is the lubricant for the drive shaft. You screw it in from time to time and that forces the lube inside. You see them on hit and miss engines.
Mustie, I like this engine because it is simple and old. No computers or sensors to foul you up. It is flexible tto do any work thatt doesn't require more than 5 or 10hp or so. A starter on a belt wouuld eliminate any risk of broken fingers, as would a simple water pump to a heater core or swamp cooler would serve to cool the engine if you do not use it in a marine application. With the noises it made, I thought it to be a "hit or miss" engine at first. Great fun to watch you figure it out!
I have a 1928 Johnson A-35 outboard that uses a 16/1 mixture. I usually use synthetic 2 stroke oil because with dino oil it smokes like a steam engine.
I always enjoy the Mustie1 chuckle when a newly acquired, fully neglected engine starts up. You also laugh at stuff that frustrates me like dropping tools.
Nice video, the round part next to the carb is an hand/grease supplier, needed badly new grease , we had lots f them in our old elevator works at Otis Europa
@Mustie1 1:06:49 that loud PSSSST noise seems to be air blowing out of that green pipe. Notice how it hits your white rag on the table every time it makes the noise.
Yes. I saw that also. Seems to be the outlet for the water jacket around the cylinder. Don't know if it's building pressure and releasing like that by design; I thought the pump just provided a pulsating "flow" not a pressurized burst, but I know nothing about these water cooled 2 smokes.
really enjoy your videos, Older DYI'er. Moved to NC from Mass and on the property is a 20 x 80 workshop filled with contractor tools . drills, saws, jig saws, grinders. Delta table saw about 30 yrs old . a Delta Joiner from the Late 30s, band saws drill presses. Watching your vids learned how to revive some that werent running. found a older generator looks like from the 50s . gas powered my next adventure to see if l can get it going it isa 4000watt one . hasnt run in years . Also watching your Mitee pressure washer . have one in there that hasnt been used in over 20 yrs . gong to tacke getting that running . thanks and keep it going .
Well done!!!! I love old Marine engines. If that was closer to the 1900s then I would imagine it had a manual Crank to start, if it were closer to the 1930s it may have had a removable electric starter, both of which were very dangerous. I think you're on the right track with a gravity-fed injector, sometimes those old cork floats relied on pressure to aid in staying afloat. Either way I loved it sir, can't wait to see you work on it some more. I love your videos and look forward to each and every one, Jimmy
Pretty cool! I’m surprised you didn’t recognize a Model T ignition coil. Concerning these old engines, most from that era were + ground. Not that it made any difference in your engine. Also, 6 volts was the standard. Be careful about using 12 on some things. Over voltage can burn out the primary or secondary on those. In the 60’s and 70’s the Whites company still had Tractors for Semi tractor/trailers that were + ground. I was forever repairing CB’s that were damaged by hooking them up without a fuse. Strangely enough there were vacuum tube radios made that didn’t care which type ground you used! The 6 volts lit the tube filaments and a vibrator, similar to what you have there, produced the high voltage for the tubes. So it really didn’t matter which way they were hooked up. Just as long as the voltage wasn’t used as a tube bias on one of their grids.
@@robertgarbe6348 The brass tag with "Gile Boat & Engine Co.Ludington, Michigan" was a company started by William Gile. In 1909, he bought Detroit Engine Works engines and put his brass tags on them.
When you make a socket like that one you could use a hose clamp or weld an out ring around were the slotted part is, it works. It is fun working on these old engines.
mustie1 on taryl fixes all, cameo click here, ruclips.net/video/4u2FflUK-UE/видео.html
I saw it a bit ago and it was great ,Thank you and hope to see more collaberation between you and Tayrl and Steves small engine saloon
Dunlap's Disease, it is contagious. ; )
You are not getting fat, the laundry shrinks the shirts.
That's right, sell him nothing..
I just watched Taryl's video after I finished this, was GREAT seeing the collaboration between all of Y'all.
I guess everyone has a "Customer" like Slippers, LOL.
The injector next to the flywheel is a grease stuffer. Fill the cap with grease and screw it in and it will force grease onto the end bearing.
as well as find another one if that is even possible and install it where the back one should go and i think he needs a small one for another hole behind that even so it seems
Make sure you get the old grease out first...
It may stop the seals leaking.
When you make a starting handle you should cut a notch out with the forward cut at an angle. That way when the engine fires it will push the starting handle off rather than catch it and spin it
@@minimonte1 Probably what the original one had. All the engine starting cranks I have seen have that. Great tip!
@@Wolfhound. They are called "stauffer grease cup". Still can buy them brand new.
@@jlucasound I saw one once where you would wind a belt around the flywheel. I see that access is partially blocked, but maybe it isn't supposed to be. The mount looks fairly recent.
What an excellent video! For someone with little experience on these engines, you did a great job. And yes, I was talking to the screen many times. I've worked on very similar engines and while I'm sure I'll get crucified for these comments, here we go:
That is a carburetor. The valve in there is actually the main check valve for the engine, no valves inside the block. The porting is as you describe. Piston draws in the fuel/air mixture as the piston goes up and then pushes it into the combustion chamber as the piston goes down. 2-cycles. The one adjustment is the needle, lean is in, richer is out. Usually, you adjust them rich for slower speeds and lean it somewhat for higher speeds. The packing nuts hold everything in place and need to be relatively tight or the engine vibration will change all the settings almost instantly. That "cough" or "sneeze" you heard several times is actually a backfire (and what probably caused all the carbon around the check valve years ago). If the engine does that, richen it up a bit. These old engines will "talk" to you and you'll figure out what it needs. Probably where that plug is on the top of the carb before it enters the block, there was a petcock that you could fill, twist open to let the fuel into the crankcase, to prime it as you described.
The rod with the handle is called the timer. Like you deduced, it has points that ground the coil to cause it to generate a spark. The engine will run in either direction, doesn't matter except how the timer is set. The points close dependent on the position of that lever. If the flywheel is spinning clockwise, if the lever is to the right, the points close after the piston is past TDC or the points are retarded. Moving the timer to the left advances the time when the points close before TDC and advances the timing. Hand cranked engines like to be started with the timing retarded, it's safer and they're easier to start. You advance the timing once they're running and warming up. If the timing is too far advanced at slow speeds, the engine will slow down and can kick backwards and run the opposite way. Or, it can break the wrist of the person trying to start it.
The coil is a Model T style coil. When you pulled the cover off, you pulled away what appeared to be melted tar. That is from the area where the condenser/capacitor is located, indicating that the condenser/capacitor overheated and is probably not any good. There are many videos on how to replace them and it's simple. Make sure you use to correct value and type of replacement or you'll be fighting with a bad coil.
Yes, that's a grease cup to force grease into the main bearing. Probably another one should be on the other end, though since the engine would tilt that way in a boat, they may have thought it would get splash lubrication from the puddle of oil that will collect in the crankcase (no pressure lube but when the engine running, the crankcase has a mist of gas/oil in there and the oil will drop to the sump when the engine is stopped). And yes, probably all the gaskets need to be replaced or that bolts tightened, depends. You're smart and will figure it out.
Can't wait to see what you do next with it. Nice engine for sure.
Isn't that called an updraft carb? Jay Leno talks about them sometimes. He says part of their function is to dump excess fuel safely to the ground rather than creating a fire hazard amongst other problems. That explains why the air port comes up from the bottom. It needs no air cleaner because its expecting to be in a non-dusty marine environment.
@@johnpossum556 Yes, it it updraft but made specifically for two stroke engines. For marine use it faces down to keep water from splashing into it.
rdg2124 ‘
"The rod with the handle is called the timer. Like you deduced, it has points that ground the coil to cause it to generate a spark. The engine will run in either direction, doesn't matter except how the timer is set"
Fairmont motors in rail inspection cars are similar. On the small cars there's no transmission, so direction of flywheel rotation determines whether you go forwards or back-up. The timing lever determines direction. I've run those rail cars, and if you are good enough, you can reverse direction by killing the voltage in wire to the buzz coil, wait until the motor is just about to stop turning, throw the timing lever to the other side, engage the wire to the coil and Bob's your Uncle, the engine will run in the opposite direction without having to crank it Crankcase seals are a big deal on these motors. If you can figure out a way to keep them air tight, that will be a great little motor.
@@johnpossum556 If the carb is dumping fuel aboard a boat, it would be far more dangerous than in a car. That worries me greatly.
Mustie, you deserve the "PERSISTENCE OF THE CENTURY AWARD" I have watched many of your videos and I have never seen anyone with more determination to get some old rejected broken motorized device running again!
If anyone agrees, give a thumbs up for Mustie!
I Had one of those in an ancient sailboat years ago, when I was just a kid. Planned on living on it cruising the Caribbean for a few years, to avoid high school.I never got it running and when the marina sold out to a big developer, I wasnt able to get the boat moved, so I lost it.
This was the very curt instructions I got from the dinosaur that sold it to me:
"Runs on same oil as lights and heater.. (kerosene?) This things your timing. (that lever) This way (right) goes forward, other way, goes backward. Only use it for starting. otherwise, leave it be."
He explained that the vessel had no electricity. There was a row of condensers or capacitors under the coil that would hold enough spark to get it started, then "Ya yank this wire" an actual solid wire - like a coat hanger, to the plug. It would diesel from there.
"Turn this if it`s cold. Turn it back `fore ya yank that wire." Referring to the butterfly/thumb screw/knob closest to the engine - choke? "This one, how fast ya WANT it to turn." (numbered knob, on mixer). "The wind and the water - they gonna fight ya. This one here fights back - makes the thing go." (the "injector").
He said if it was weak, like running out of oil, hold yer tank higher. Higher tank means more fuel. To "Stop it turnin`", hold the float down, where it pokes through the cap. "Stop it `fore ya backward it. `Member it aint got no brakes."
He quickly left me, bewildered, in my new home - without a good-bye, good luck or thank you, but from halfway up the dock yells back, like an after thought,
"If fuel don`t go in it, grease does, , , or the water will."
That's just the most old guy thing I've ever heard.
Pretty neat antique
Great story
Was he your dad?
What a legend! I want to meet that guy haha!
This was the engine in our sail boat when my dad bought it in 1943. He replaced it when I was 6 with a 4 stroke so I dont know all the details for setting it to run. It ran a large propeler so he would set it at the slowest posible speed to fish. It would some times miss firing a cycle and nearby fisherman would holler when is that going to die.
Thank you for your videos.
I have cancer and your videos help relax me and take my mind off of it for a while.
Best Wishes for comfort
wafen40 hope you get better
I have heard chaga fights cancer eight different ways. Hope that helps. Good luck
I took 18months out of my life to fight mine. That was 20+ years ago. Good luck and don't give up.
Drink green tea and eat roasted garlic
As a mechanical engineer who regularly watches your videos, this has got to be one of my favorite one. The old technology that all the modern IC controls are based on was simple, but demanded more knowledge of how things worked and fundamental mechanics. I enjoyed your process of figuring out the air/fuel mixture process. What fun!
The simpler version of a mechanical device usually requires more knowledge or skill to operate, and the version that is easier to operate is usually much more complicated to work on.
Look at how kids used to buy and then hot rod cars back when they were mechanically simple, but needed a whole arcane mountain of knowledge and experience to modify, tune and master. These guys hung out together and shared what they knew. It helped to draw them together.
Now cars are so complex that even professional "shadetree" mechanics are starting to disappear, and the art of hot rodding has nearly died off compared to back in the 1950s and 1960s. The cars do more of the claculating and thinking for you to maximize efficiency and monitor faults. To work on the computerization of a car is an entire extra education aside from mechanics and rather unfriendly to learn under the hood in the driveway of your buddy's house.
That front cap is a greaser for the front bearing . You twist it in and it gives it more grease
There probably was one on the other side as well where that hole through to the bearing is. I had an old furnace in my house that had those grease caps for lubing the fan shaft.
ya he is 100% missing one on the other side
Maybe adding grease to the cups and turning caps in will help seal the mainshaft.
Yes
Ahhh, the joy of machines before sealed bearings. :)
Hi from a retired engineer in the UK = Well that was a comprehensive journey on an unknown engine -Excellent!!
I have been on this earth for 70 years and I get the most entertainment from your projects because I would do the same thing as you are doing from my 20’s to my late 50’s. There is just a satisfaction from taking something and making it better than when you found it. My father taught me that and it has always stuck with me. They did it out of necessity because of the depression so it just became second nature when I worked on the farm with my dad.
Keep up the great projects.
" I wanna see what makes stuff tick". I still do in my sixties. That's why I watch your channel.
Same here i once took the family console tv apart thankfully the old man stopped before I got to deep
@@brucefrye8799 LOL I did the same thing!
I’m at the 50min mark screaming “put it in the ultrasonic cleaner!” Like it was Sunday football on tv. Lol
Same with the spark timing lever... I kept screaming "Advance it! Advance it!"
Mustie probably thought of that ultra sonic cleaner long before you did so you don't have to yell
Ahahaha, same!
This was intense!
@@Mark-nu5vg relax and laugh.
Yep, whacking on that fragile antique valve (that now occasionally fails to seat, making the whoosh noise) had me reaching for my blood pressure meds!
By opening that buzz box you just voided the engine's warranty. Smart move.
It probably expired well before the dude was ever born anyway
@@rawr51919 give it a little time, and someone will call asking if he wants to purchase an extended warrenty on it.
I wonder if he could return it
@@anthonylautzenheiser3802 Those clowns are quick to hang up when I tell them my car is a '66 Valiant....
Do they sell those at AutoZone?
I love the old engines, and it was really fun watching you figure out the buzz coil/battery system. Usually, these old 2 cycle engines used a 16:1 fuel to oil mixture, using 30 weight non-detergent oil. The modern purple 2 cycle oil is not appropriate, for it is designed for use with ball/roller bearings. The heavier 30 wt. helps seal air leakage in the old sleeve bearings.
I remember playing on a virtually identical engine with my Dad for hours in the garage, think that it was a 5HP Lister engine with a slightly larger flywheel. My job was to use the hand crank, where I first learnt NOT where to put my thumb as it kept kicking back so I have sympathy for your old drill there, and after six hours of cranking we finally got it going. After the fuel tank that first brass container was a float cum fuel filter. They used to build the coil in old chess boxes. My Grandfather used to make munitions during WW2 and the Ministry sent a lot of equipment his way. We ended up using that Lister with a vacuum pump for donkeys years to milk the Farms here of cows. That type of engine was used for just about everything from circa 1920 onwards..cheers for the memories
I just adore your laugh when things work out. Well done sir.
Yep. It's better sounding than the Duckman...
I was wrestling with a rusted brake rotor yesterday and caught myself doing the trademark Mustie “HA!” when it finally popped loose.
@@SwarthyPlinker He'll be asking for royalties now...
So much fun. These videos are like childbirth. We watch you labour for ages, willing you along from the edge of our seats. Congratulations, it’s a runner!!
Mustie 1’s new line of merch, “Im not fat, it’s just this shirt “. Please order one size larger than you think you need.
I want one!!!
Lol
I would buy one!
I'll have an extra medium
I’ll take Too!
Mustie, I bloody well LOVE watching you work through a problem such as this engine. Your diagnostic approach borders on scientific / medical, reducing everything to first principle before making a decision. Added to which, the "seat of your pants" tests involving gasoline and oil being squirted into carb or cylinder and spinning it up to see what happens. I'm always half expecting the damn thing to burst into flames or simply explode on the bench. But best of all, you talk to the viewer as if they are right there in the workshop ... and we are always answering your questions and comments as you progress! It makes for GREAT, entertaining, and informative viewing. Keep it up!!
Your methodical thinking is what brings me back to your channel every time.
The brass cap you unscrewed with the black stuff in it is a grease cup to feed grease to the timing end of the crank bearing. You are missing the grease cup that does the same thing on the output end of the crank. Also the carb needs to be sealed in the correct position. I would recommend using electrical conduit lock washers and conduit seals. The throttle is the adjustment on the top of the mixer and the mixture control is on the side. Great vid.
Yep, as I remember you filled the cup and gave it a twist as needed to force grease down the tube and into the bearing. I think I saw one of those on Abom’s channel.
@@yqwgjsg shopdogsam has a lifetime of antique engines yes it is a grease cup .
smallenginemechanic has an antique engine with a similar carb that he reworked in a video
whats the butterfly if the air is the throttle?
@@GigsTaggart It may be used to keep the engine at idle, but the engine would really need a load or a prop in the water to really test it.
@@GigsTaggart Choke
Who could give this a thumbs down? Best “will it run” channel on youtube!
probably someone who knows engines like that and was crying over the state it was in and could not see up or down while being so sad :P
Only person that would give a thumbs-down would be someone that doesn't like the internal combustion engine
That engine almost looks new as far as NOS
There are always people who give Mustie vids thumbs down. Must be some kind of inside joke !
Chuck Iringtwice And this is one of the best videos as well.
My Dad brought home a few stationary engines from auctions that we played with. Thanks for the memories. Love the laugh. Infectious.
I love the way you laugh and don’t let yourself get frustrated and mad because it won’t start. That a great attribute to have. Your doing something you love. I admire that and if you were my neighbor I would be your friend because I can never get my pull mower to start after winter. Ha ha. Take care my friend👍🏻😊
Then thing in the wood box is called a Trembler coil. Inside is a coil and condenser. By using a vibrator circuit, you can generate the high voltage for your spark. I keep one on my bench to remind me how much fun old technology was.
At least we know what it was originally designed for - table/furniture mover😉
Mustie said he was gettin fat... remember back in the day how they put that strap across you that vibrated like mad? I wonder....
my ex had one of them and she left it here ,maby i should try it out and try split my 1 pack in to 8 like it was back in the days hahahaha
It's a door stop now
This is a poppet valve carburetor, often found on early outboard motors. Suction from the crankcase allows atmospheric pressure to lift the valve up against the spring. When the valve is open, a metered amount of fuel is drawn along with the incoming air into the crankcase. When the valve closes, fuel flow stops.
Came here to say the same thing. It operates the same function as a reed valve on the more modern 2 strokes. When the Piston goes down, stops the pressure from blasting out of the carb.
Those coils work on 2, 4 or 6 volt lead acid batteries. Very rarely they worked on 2 large dry cells of 1,5v.
Inside the coil, usually across the trembler contacts, there is a capacitor which usually fails after a few hours.
The trembler contacts themselves are often dirty or pitted, and may need to be adjusted before it will buzz.
12v is way too much. Never use 12v. Also never run one of these coils without a spark plug connected.
The trembler coil is made to run on 6 volts but yes a trembler coil will run on Les
i have had to replace the wax paper cap inside the, its tricky not too difficult to do
Yeah, the main issue is getting rid of the potting material. It is doable by heating it in a sacrificial toaster oven at a low setting, but it's not a pleasant job at all.
Mmmmmm, pitch the original conformal coating, lovely.
@@mfbfreak Yeah coal tar sucks did it once never again! Although I have heard that soaking in mineral spirits works if you got the time.
Good stuff. I have a very similar engine that is a 1918 Kallee? 2 1/2 hp made in the USA. It belonged to my great grandfather and was used in an 18' fishing dory until about 1975. My grandfather used to have an old sandshoe that he would put on to kick start it. It has an ignition system called an exciter operated by a cam on the crankshaft that lifts a sliding yoke up and drops it through a cool to make the spark. Crank and bigend bearings are white metal and easily repaired. There are no crankshaft seals and it relies on snug bearings with a bit of grease to suck the fuel into the crankcase.
That is an old-day greaser,when you turn it ,it pushes grease into the bush.
Not to mention there should be another grease cup on the back end
Yes these greasers were fitted to many oil engines of the 1920's, 1930's.
Yep, bearing greaser. Usual routine is to give it a couple of turns or so before starting the engine.
That old coil sure looks like the buzz box from a Ford Model T. You’re making progress. That was fun. Best get some water in the cooling jacket. Good luck.
It is indeed a model t buzz box!
Luckily I old enough to remember my granddad's small motor boat had this engines in it. In the mid 60s he finally decided to change the engine for a magneto ignition model. He used to buzz us with the box, then changed to booting us with the maggy, lol. The original was easy to get running provided you knew which adjustments to make at what time.
Thanks for the memories Mustie!!
🇦🇺 🍺🍺
Gidday, The gas tank supplies fuel pressure from gravity. It may require an elevated fuel source to continue running. Just a thought.
@@DontCryAboutIt me to.
Multiple coil packs and no distrubutor. Where have we seen that before? Oh the irony.
looks like an old trembler coil, most likely 6 volts across the black wires to run it i would imagine
Andrew Potter CWM is one of my favorite channels along with Mustie1 of course. Team Packard all the way!
@@jlloyd2004mcs They'll win, no doubt. The first car I can remember riding in was a '52 Clipper. I hopped into the front seat one time, hit the shifter with my foot, and knocked it into reverse while doing 60 down the Pennsylvania Turnpike. We slid to a stop, dad got out and looked at everything, got in and put it back in drive, and we went on to Canada. The only damage was the flat spots on the rear tires....
Mustie1, I usually watch on my TV so I don't get a chance to comment but I love the videos. I've watched almost everything back to 4 years ago. I've fixed 3 of my own mowers just learning from you. Thanks so much and keep up the good work.
They got reverse by running the engine "backwards" that is it will run comfortably in either direction. I never ran one of these but they tell me you just slowed the engine right down, shifted the timing and it would go in the other direction. Our old boat had a one cylinder but four stroke engine with a gear box. . The coil (wooden box) just has the coil packed in pitch. No need to open it, Model T had four of those, one per cylinder. It is just an induction coil. The vibrating contacts give you a lot of spark and it needs maybe six volts to run. Coil should buzz when it's working. The set screw on the contacts is to adjust the oscillation. Thanks for the video; it brought back a flood of memories.
To start it I remember something about turning it slowly backwards against the compression till it fired sending it forward to supply the momentum to get everything going.
Another great flick which had me screaming instructions to you leaving me laughing so hard. Don't ever get too old to enjoy stuffing around in the shed.
You did a great job Mustie, I have worked on old engines and the way you are doing it is just fine, learn as you tinker like most of us.
Hey Mustie lad, I found myself yelling at my laptop watching your super-valiant efforts-----AIR, AIR, AIR/fuel mix but you made it in the end! I always, always, always enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing, from an old Yorkshire "Geezer" in Ireland.
The big cap just behind the flywheel is a grease port keep it paced full .it melts away gradually as it runs to lubricate the crank
The arm connected behind the fly wheel is a spark advance. It should be more to the left anti clock wise to start giving less advance.
After a few minutes and the engine is hot you can move it clockwise to increase the timing advance. The carburetor also should be adjusted to give more fuel.
I think this originally ran on kerosine or A1 jet fuel.
Hell yea. Thanks for your ridgid Sunday Schedule. Here in the UK they land mid-morning and it has become part of my weekend. Mustie1 in the morning and sail life in the evening. Better than TV!
You were absolutely correct when you commented on the fact that a two stroke will run in both directions.
Many years ago, here in the UK, disabled people were provided with horrible little three-wheeled cars.
For quite a few years, these cars were powered by 147cc Villiers two-stroke engines, driving through a motorcycle type gearbox.
The problem was, motorbikes didn't have a reverse gear. To solve the problem, the engines were fitted with a second set of points to allow it to run backwards.
So, to engage 'reverse gear', you had to stop the engine and flick a switch, which selected the second set of points and reversed the direction of the starter motor.
If you google 'Invacar', you can see these horrible little things.
Just like musties ORIGINAL engine in his Beaver
HubNut has a whole series of videos on the Invacar he rescued a couple years ago.
The Bond three wheeler was even more radical.. It had a 225cc Villiers engine directly above the front wheel which could gimble almost 360 degrees. So just turn the steering wheel for 180 degrees, and the thing would be going backwards, or any combination in-between.
He's called TWC horrible
Wow my neighbour had one of those invacars, must have been 40 odd years ago. I never knew what they were called til now, cheers
Coldwar was just playing with his T's buzzcoils this week. First time I ever saw one and now this!
hi on the left where the water pump is there is a hole there shod be another grees cup like the other one on old engines like this their is no seals on the bottom end like on a moden 2 stroke so you need to put grees in the hole to stop the crank sucking air in regards bob
Two thing I like, 1 you never give up. 2 you like to get your hands dirty.Great job.
I agree with all of what rdg said. I would also say don’t run your voltage to the coil to high either because they ran in Model T’s and they ran on 6 volts. Inside the wooden box are two coils one primary to close the relay the points open and kicks the secondary coil to put out the high voltage to the plug. Your doing fine. Keep it up.
For anyone who thought Sherlock Holmes was a fictional character,we've just witnessed a perfect example of human deductive powers. 80 minutes just flew by.
k1cky scotland Sherlock Mustie? Now that's a tv show i’d watch. Oh wait I already do. Kinda.
"Elementary"!,my dear Lewis.
Makes for an easy way to rearrange the shop, just clamp that motor to whatever needs moving, and guide it!lol
That old engine brings back fond memories as a kid. My dad had the exact same old marine engine mounted on 2 pieces of wood in our basement. About once a year he would go down there and go through the long sequence of knobs and adjustments until it would fire up with a good pull on the flywheel. He would run it for about a half an hour then store it back away until the next time. And b.t.w - that engine will run backwards by moving the timing adjustment all the way to the other end and rolling the flywheel - i had seen him do it many times. Enjoyed the vid!
This has got to be one of my favorite videos you have done
That's a grease cup. Fill it with grease then wind it back in. The more you wind it, the more grease gets pushed out towards the shaft. Had an old farm pumper motor that had a few grease cups.
i love all your videos but the old stuff is the best,,,,,we used some of them on our farm in the 50's and it brings back good memories. thanks for sharing
I learn something from watching these oddball engine videos every-single-time! It *is* much more fun to figure out instead of looking things up. Great job as always!
Mustie1: You bent the L shaped 'friction' plate on the needle valve adjuster (it rubs against the knurling on the edge of the brass screw) when you undid the flange nut to get it off. It will stop it turning, when you get that beautiful old engine refurbished. I was on edge until you finally clamped it to the table. Great perseverance! Great entertainment! Great comments from all those who have worked on these years ago.
20:20 i feel privileged that you "shared" that moment with us. I've seen buzz boxes on YT, and I've even seen teardowns of 'em, but did not know how to make 'em buzz, nor how to troubleshoot 'em.
Hi Mustie I enjoy these longer videos they give me a lot of happiness just watching you bring these projects back to life and giving them a purpose. Please keep on doing what your are doing.
The big brass cap is to put grease into the flywheel bearing,, :-)
You give it a turn every so often,,
It's so much fun watching Mustie1 work on ANYTHING! Kuddos!!
Why is it so satisfying to take an old engine that hasn't run in years, and getting it to run? My Grandfather was born in 1901, and worked on engines from the time he was nine, until he retired in 1979, and was a first rate mechanic. My father was born in 1925, worked in his father's repair shops until he retired in 2010. He repairs farm tractors "on the side" today, at 96 years of age. My son, and step-son's are both excellent mechanics. As for me, I can fix just about any older engine, (without all this computer crap), but I was a Police Officer!
This has now become my favourite channel . I just LOVE the way you approach things . Much like a lot of us do . None of this , on you must torque this to this , and you must use this particular this for this . Just good old fashioned roll up the sleeves and make the darn thing work . Great work my friend , you earned another sub . Much love from the UK . x
I call it a air / fuel metering device! And that’s a grease packer , I use corn head grease and you load the cup and screw it on , by screwing it in it forces the grease onto the crank bushing . The cork floats are hard to find but if you go onto the AOMCI web page you might find parts !
Many years ago my dad told me about small Marine engines that the Navy used in their very small boats that ran both directions, and that would be the reason for a direct drive from the engine to the propeller. You could back the boat up. Just stop the engine and start it up backwards.
Holding one of those wooden box deals in my hand now. Exactly like yours. Was told it was off of a model T
Yes, it's an antique auto coil and would drop right in a T-model coil box.
Hi Mustie. I have a 1950's generator. Lister Motor. It runs on diesel. Been rebuilding this for the last year. So really enjoying the vids. Also have a 3600 Ford tractor. This has a fuel line and injector problem. Just re build a kudu lawn mower. 1980's model. Love you vids.
Many early 2 stroke engines (example Fairmont Rail Inspection Cars) used a timing lever to alter the timing to allow it to be run in reverse thereby saving the need for a transmission reverse. If you're good at it you can switch it off then as it stops rotating move the lever and switch it back on to save a restart. Been there.
Nearly first...damn..The stem going down to the main bearing behind the flywheel is a built in grease gun..for greasing the front bearing, just turn it to pump grease..
Mustie you're missing a second grease injector on the rear bearing! Otherwise it won't get proper lube!!! It's got the front injector though, just pack it full of moly grease.
Cup grease is what's needed.its very thick and won't run out of the bearings like regular grease.
Grease cap on the front, for that bearing, screw it in for somewhat constant pressure(light)to keep the bearing lubed. Please re-route the ignition wire so it's not rubbing on the flywheel ;) And use teflon tape on the main threads of that fuel body to not only seal, but keep it away from that crank-bolt. Good job getting it going though, and playing w/ancient crap is my nirvana too ;)
I was surprised that Mustie didn't figure out that Grease Cup right off the bat. And I was pulling my hair out waiting for him to ADVANCE the timing....
@@BigMouth380cal On old cars that had the advance on the steering column that was standard practice for starting. I was yelling at the screen about the grease cup!!!
Awesome, there really is not much that you can't get to run. Nice job!
This may be my favorite so far. I really enjoy seeing old tech brought back to life. Hope to see more videos on this one!
Hey Mustie, I think it would be great to learn a little bit about your background and how you came to making videos on RUclips. Love your stuff! Thank you!
Good point. We need a Q&A video. 👍 🇬🇧
He's done some Q&A videos about that. Highly recommend them!
@@CajunGreenMan .. Thanks. I'll have a look back. 👍
@@grahamefreestone5309 yup watch some of the older vids there is some awesome stuff
@@TedBishop1 .. I've been a subscriber for a while, but I haven't watched them all. Yet.. ;-)
“ ok now I’m done “ try’s four more times lol ! Right on man I love your channel!
I have watched one of those engine run on a small lake cruiser. It fired up both forwards and backwards. He moved the timing lever opposite to rotation of the fly wheel (far left clockwise, far right counter clockwise), and turned the wheel either way to start in forwards or reverse. It also had a small fluid clutch but it seemed more part of the boat than the engine. Great video! 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😎
I was guessing that it would run both ways, it only makes sense, what with no gearing how else would you back up. I used to work on gas powered golf carts, that did the same thing. Thanks for your comment!
This is my favorite channel. Man I learn so much from watching these videos! Keep em coming.
Watching you "adjust" that grease cup lubricator gave me a good laugh after a long day. Thanks very much.
The tag says well restored(nicely repainted?)yet there are parts missing.........well it is in good hands now, looking forward to the early 1900's motorized bike you build.
You nailed it with this video, completely enjoyed watching,120 minutes goes by in the blink of an eye.
Thanks for sharing
Some of the old timers in Newfoundland still use this type of engine they call it a make and brake, cause if you time it right it can be thrown into reverse which is handy when docking.
Went too NEWFOUNDLAND some years back, and there was a song about make and break harbour! The pic of me is there with an iceberg in the background! Drove there from Machias, Maine! Great fish and chips everywhere!
That old gasoline is probably reconstituting back into the dinosaur it was made from.
Jurassic fuel. Lol.
Yes, but at least it won't have had ethanol in it.
@@Miata822 Amen to that! What a boondoggle that was and still is.
@@Miata822 but it got lead lol
You beat me to my bad joke, at least I can console myself that i'm not the only one here with such a crap sense of humour 😁
I had one those apart 45yrs ago know it was be tar. . The Florida pool pump motor bearing repair guy approved ! that was good info
I love that that old engine was vibrating your table across the shop and threw a wrench on the floor. It was like the motor was saying "we don't need that any more, I'm good."
The grease cup by the fly wheel I think it lubs the bearing on that side and I think there should be another grease cup on the out put bearing as many years ago I had an old Stuart Turner marine engine very similar hope this helps from sunny Bulgaria.
I think I was in unison with you when you pulled the fuel cap "OoOoOoOo!!! That's not good... "
Duncan Black same here. :)
At 41.37, that is the front main bearing grease cup, the rear one is missing. ( get some oil on it). The bit in the centre of the carb which seems to be stuck is a vacuum valve, opened and closed by crankcase pressure. The top screw limits the valve opening( air supply). Those engines were used in the old fishing boats, usually started by kicking across the top of the flywheel. Dry batteries powered the Model T ignition coil. The button on the top of the advance/retard lever ( is it stuck) should lock it in the run positions for forward/reverse.
The brass cap with the black goo inside is the lubricant for the drive shaft. You screw it in from time to time and that forces the lube inside. You see them on hit and miss engines.
Mustie,
I like this engine because it is simple and old. No computers or sensors to foul you up. It is flexible tto do any work thatt doesn't require more than 5 or 10hp or so. A starter on a belt wouuld eliminate any risk of broken fingers, as would a simple water pump to a heater core or swamp cooler would serve to cool the engine if you do not use it in a marine application. With the noises it made, I thought it to be a "hit or miss" engine at first. Great fun to watch you figure it out!
I have a old marine 2 stroke. 1924. Uses petrol and 'motor engine lubricated 2 power oil' in about 12:1
I have a 1928 Johnson A-35 outboard that uses a 16/1 mixture. I usually use synthetic 2 stroke oil because with dino oil it smokes like a steam engine.
I always enjoy the Mustie1 chuckle when a newly acquired, fully neglected engine starts up. You also laugh at stuff that frustrates me like dropping tools.
that brass screw cap with grease in it looks like a grease point for the flywheel bearings
Nice video, the round part next to the carb is an hand/grease supplier, needed badly new grease , we had lots f them in our old
elevator works at Otis Europa
Good times. I’ve never wanted to reach through the screen more in my life. But each man has his process. Good on you!
At 46:00 you said "We're going in" and just at that time a car or bike passed, making a scary-movie-like sound. Love it :)
Loved the cross over with Taryl!!! That was great.
@Mustie1 1:06:49 that loud PSSSST noise seems to be air blowing out of that green pipe. Notice how it hits your white rag on the table every time it makes the noise.
Yes. I saw that also. Seems to be the outlet for the water jacket around the cylinder. Don't know if it's building pressure and releasing like that by design; I thought the pump just provided a pulsating "flow" not a pressurized burst, but I know nothing about these water cooled 2 smokes.
really enjoy your videos, Older DYI'er. Moved to NC from Mass and on the property is a 20 x 80 workshop filled with contractor tools . drills, saws, jig saws, grinders. Delta table saw about 30 yrs old . a Delta Joiner from the Late 30s, band saws drill presses. Watching your vids learned how to revive some that werent running. found a older generator looks like from the 50s . gas powered my next adventure to see if l can get it going it isa 4000watt one . hasnt run in years . Also watching your Mitee pressure washer . have one in there that hasnt been used in over 20 yrs . gong to tacke getting that running . thanks and keep it going .
Well done!!!! I love old Marine engines. If that was closer to the 1900s then I would imagine it had a manual Crank to start, if it were closer to the 1930s it may have had a removable electric starter, both of which were very dangerous. I think you're on the right track with a gravity-fed injector, sometimes those old cork floats relied on pressure to aid in staying afloat. Either way I loved it sir, can't wait to see you work on it some more.
I love your videos and look forward to each and every one,
Jimmy
Pretty cool! I’m surprised you didn’t recognize a Model T ignition coil. Concerning these old engines, most from that era were + ground. Not that it made any difference in your engine. Also, 6 volts was the standard. Be careful about using 12 on some things. Over voltage can burn out the primary or secondary on those.
In the 60’s and 70’s the Whites company still had Tractors for Semi tractor/trailers that were + ground. I was forever repairing CB’s that were damaged by hooking them up without a fuse. Strangely enough there were vacuum tube radios made that didn’t care which type ground you used! The 6 volts lit the tube filaments and a vibrator, similar to what you have there, produced the high voltage for the tubes. So it really didn’t matter which way they were hooked up. Just as long as the voltage wasn’t used as a tube bias on one of their grids.
FORD trucks were + ground until the mid 60's.
Hi Mustie1. Thanks for inviting me into your shop and for the video 👍
Antique 2 cycle, 2 hp Inboard marine engine manufactured in 1906 - 1911 by Detroit Engine Works.
Looked like Gale mfg of ludington mi on the tag.
@@robertgarbe6348 The brass tag with "Gile Boat & Engine Co.Ludington, Michigan" was a company started by William Gile. In 1909, he bought Detroit Engine Works engines and put his brass tags on them.
Ahhh. That is very cool.
When you make a socket like that one you could use a hose clamp or weld an out ring around were the slotted part is, it works. It is fun working on these old engines.