Something often overlooked for better gas mileage, make sure your brakes are not hanging up or dragging. Pads can seize in the brackets, slide pins can seize up and calipers can stick. Any of them can cause drag.
Driving style can improve mpg significantly! Switching to a good Highway tire instead of an aggressive A/T can also improve mpg by 1 or 2 mpg. My preferred hwy tire are the Michelin Defenders. They also seem to last forever with proper alignment and rotations they can go up to 80k miles
the current defenders on my '97 taco rig have 85k miles (mostly long-haul freeway) and measured 7/32 tread life... not bad when they cost a bit over a grand out-the-door
Great content Petr. FYI, I replaced the original Oxygen sensors with Denso parts on my 2008 Sienna @ 192,000 miles. No codes but noticed that they were responding rather slowly while monitoring OBDII data. My gasoline mileage increased by 3 MPG and we're now averaging 24 mpg in mixed driving.
@@agookchild yes the Toyota system was designed with knowledge that the CEL will immediately fail many emissions and as such that Japan has such strict demands on pollution control already, they designed it to not trip unless it is completely dead like for example exhaust poisoning through gas or oil and the extra snuffing caused the heater circuits to overload and burn out. But if it's just lazy aka slow to heat, that wastes fuel. But is still operable. This way you decide not the law.
Hi Peter, in my experience owning a well Made in Japan vehicles, the single most important item that can increase gas mileage is making sure the tires are properly inflated. I even add 3 or 4 PSI over the recommended PSI.
I can gain 2+mpg just by adding 10lbs of Psi to tires. As seasons change it's always a idea to check your tire pressure. I drive a 04 Taco with 565k mi on it. Best truck I've ever owned.
Great information. I have a 2013 Taco 4x4 TRD Sport 4X4 Double Cab with the 4.0L V6 and those that know, that engine can get thirsty when your right foot is a little heavy. I try to do all of maintenances that Peter recommends. So far so good. I also change my front and rear Diff oil. I also change my transfer case gear oil too about every 60,000 miles.
I just found you and your channel. Awesome. All of it is very clearly described along with great tips and hints. Have 2001 2WD Sequoia that I have taken very good care of over the years. 238,000 miles and it's running great. Used your tips to do the valve cover gasket replacement (had oil leaking in one of the tubes). Thanks so much!!!
Synthetic gear lubes in the front and rear differentials, transfer case and transmission can increase mileage slightly. And of course synthetic engine oil. Mostly though, having a light touch with the accelerator pedal improves mileage the most, even in a big old beast like this vehicle. Thank you
A big factor is driving habits. We have a 2008 Highlander, which unfortunately has 3 plugs which are hard to get to. When I drive, the avg MPG (based on the display) is 24mpg. When my wife drives the same vehicle in the same area, her avv mpg is 17mpg. No significant difference other than the driver.
This is my problem too. For the life of me I cannot soft foot/under rev or dive gently to prevent it. I just will consistently get 15-18 no matter what.
I’ve got an 02 Tundra 4wd that I was able to squeeze 17 -17.5 mpg out of on the highway and that was with all my hunting gear this past deer season. New plugs and went up 5psi on the tires but the big thing was keeping the engine at or just below 2000rpm which is around 63-65 mph. Did this all hunting season and the mpg’s were consistent. Before that I was see 15mpg on the highway but traveling at 70-75mph.
If time is no value to you, that's the way to go. For me, time is money (meaning more that I'm willing to pay for extra leisure time than that I'm trying to rush somewhere to make more money)
You also have to consider the thermal expansion/contraction of the fuel. What temperature was it when you bought it (out of the ground from the pump at the station) and what temperature was it when you were driving around. 10 gallons of gas at 60F = 9.6 gallons at 0F so right away before you even move you're going to get less miles to the gallon because you physically have less volume of gas in the tank when it's very cold outside.
I replaced the Iridium Denso plugs to a Twin tipped Denso Iridium spark plug. It’s advertised to burn cleaner, increase performance and longer lasting. My 2007 Tundra is very light on it’s accelerator.
Thank you Peter. Good stuff. Very helpful. Just changed the engine oil and air filter on my Honda HRX lawn mower. I've had the mower close to 10 years. I change the engine oil and air filter every year. I should check the spark plug as well. I think its the original. I try to sharpen blade once a year as well. Preventative maintenance helps these engine last longer. I just learned Honda is no longer making these lawn mowers. Who knows how long the ICE will be around. I also change oil every 5k miles on the 2011 Sienna with 2GRFE. Sad to see Toyota is planning on phasing out that motor.. I guess I'll just stick to lawn maintenance and hope for the best. I'm looking forward to my next Saurkraut break. I tried German style kraut not such a big fan. Good night California 😴 and The Bay area and Geary Blvd.
If new tires with an increased rolling resistance were recently installed that can also negatively effect MPGs. I noticed a 2 mpg difference when I switched from Michelin Energy Saver tires to Michelin Cross Climate 2 tires. Also add some injector cleaner to the fuel tank occasionally might help.
I just had to replace the valve cover gaskets on my '05 Sequoia with 250K miles! Moving on to universal joint replacements next... Any recommendation on a brand/model number that's good? I would like to have a grease fitting on them for ease of servicing.
Petr and everybody else… how do you remove corroded 10mm coilpack bolts that like to not act like 10mm bolts and just crumble? Shall I try an 8 or 9mm socket and be super careful? I might have to end up cutting them off lol. Almost 6yrs of owning an LX470 and the coilpacks and sparks are of unknown history. It’s at 291,000mi
Hi Peter. Thank you for the good content. Sticking to Denso or OEM parts does make a big difference in MPG and longevity of the vehicle. As part of the health check you can also test the fuel pump load pressure. Under load it should not drop below 3Bar. It should spike directly to 3,2Bare when you press the gass peddle to the floor..
I always recommend ohming out the afr sensor(s) to see if their slow reaction time affects making the engine too far when unnecessary or too lean when otherwise needed and not available. Slow to accelerate when you stand on it? And it's not something that always slow? That's your sign. But use the numbers and compare to the expected range. I also use the cleaners and protectwnt but Noco brand. And also the felt circles for the terminals to block the offgassing that makes the yellow crusties on the terms. I also see the vehicle squatting some. Worn shocks or extra weight in the rear? That also can cause mileage rundown. My question is why leave the terminal so high up on the post? I put it far on as I can so it can't vibrate off or get knocked in a pothole or let the yellow crusties build up underneath. And did you know.. you don't even need to use a cleaner. Hot water will melt it and it washes away. But definitely use the treatment after. Or any oil based spray. Or really any grease. Anything to coat and block. But the spray is more tacky and less messy.
Not sure if this engine uses ISC (idle speed control) valve but cleaning it can slightly improve gas mileage. My car 1UZ-FE was showing idle RPM below 600. Once cleaned, RPM became normal between 600-700. I would think 150K miles is a good interval for cleaning. Thanks for all your videos.
On the battery and corroded connections. I have had corrosion on the negative ground to chassis or the fender. It would affect fuel mileage and the motor would have a rough idle. Oh what a feeling!! If I had a salvage yard I would only buy Toyotas.
Has anyone had any positive mpg results from throttle control products like: pedal commander/9drive etc. In "economy mode"? I know that a throttle body spacer is useless in a non carburated vehicle. I have an 07 tundra 5.7 4x4 that Peter has worked on and I put in dual exhaust a year ago, an AEM DryFlow drop in air filter & a 9drive throttle control unit. Still only getting about 17.5-18mpg hwy. I guess that's the ceiling on these beastwagons. The only other thing Peter said could be done is tweaking with the ecm which is above my paygrade..
Just my thought but with my 2012 tundra 5.7 i keep rpm's under 2000. I also use cruise when on the highway generally about 65-67mph, no jackrabbit starts from stop and mostly air pressure. Question my truck has 77,850 mi on it, how often should plugs be done for this truck?
What is typical MPG for the 5.7l in the Tundra/Sequioa? I get 12.5 in my 2011 Tundra across the several months of ownership. Will be changing spark plugs soon and cleaning MAF.
I understand wanting to get the most MPG that you can. However, trying to penny pinch a V8 is best cured by buying a Prius. V8's weren't designed to pinch pennies at the pump.They were made for torque and HP. Nothing more. Thank you Petr. Great video tutorial.
Hello Peter. Should I perform a transmission drain and fill along with a filter change on my 2005 sequoia 180k? Currently the transmission shifts beautifully but I’ve read conflicting opinions on the subject. Should I just forget about and leave it alone since it has never been serviced ?
I'm in a similar situation. 2008 with 205k miles. First owner hauled a travel trailer... I think it should be changed if the transmission's going to last. Trouble is, as he said in another video (search for it on his channel), they made it so difficult that many of us may find it too difficult to do on our own.
I've performed two transmission fluid changes since I bought my '02 Sequoia 6 years and 100k ago. No problems with the transmission. Synthetic went in both times. I would think new and better formula stuff going in is better than old gunky dino juice staying in. Also something to consider is the oil cooler on the front. A flushing and filter change will prevent that from getting clogged as well.
Would you want to schedule a detailed inspection? Must be willing to only show vehicle and not be on camera and leave vehicle so he can film in peace. Also it is not cheap.
Stop idling for no reason. Idling = 0 mpg. Also, turn OFF the auto temp climate control when the windows are down or the sunroof open. What's wrong with NGK?
If you can stand the rough ride, increase tire pressure to within a couple of pounds of the maximum listed on the tire sidewall. I run the old Expedition tires at 28 pounds, so it rides less like a truck. And I don't drive much. Always keeping my fuel tank on full eventually gave me a tankful of stale gasoline which would hardly burn. Stale gas which caused a 'stop and go' engine operation didn't set a trouble code. That surprised me. Running the fuel tank down below 1/8 full & adding $40 of fresh fuel, along with 3 fuel filter changes, solved the problem. I put some of the old gas from the fuel filter in a jar. It never did all evaporate. It left behind what looked like some kind of light oil which didn't smell like gasoline at all, nor did it smell like diesel. There was no water in it. You don't want any water to sit inside a fuel injector. So if you don't drive much, don't top off your fuel tank every couple of weeks. Watch out for the rain coming your way, Peter. The Weather Channel said a lot more rain is on the way to California. So did the AccuWeather Channel. At least the drought will be over by spring.
Keep the car WASHED! Dirt=extra air resistance, and possible extra weight in winter (ice and snow built up underneath). Ice and snow can also build up on and inside the wheels, throwing them literally off balance. Twice a month is usually good in my experience.
Keep it washed because of dirt adding wind resistance, 🤣🤣🤣. I heard on the radio show "car talk", where one lady brought that up (her husband wanted to wash their car before a trip) to the two brothers who were mechanics. One of them tried to explain how washing would not improve mileage, maybe .00000001 more miles a gallon, the other one couldn't stop laughing.
NGK & Denso work together & often share parts, per Japanese gov't, keiretsu, forced to work with each other, to help support a fellow company, inside the country, to help the country grow/aka, Japanese forced internal patriotism. =)
Well the spec on our 2009 is 28 mpg highway. I'm assuming the spec and rating are the same thing. I just got 32 mpg on my last tankfull of fuel. You don't call that an increase? I used Lucas injector cleaner in the tank along with ethanol-free top tier fuel.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Something often overlooked for better gas mileage, make sure your brakes are not hanging up or dragging. Pads can seize in the brackets, slide pins can seize up and calipers can stick. Any of them can cause drag.
Driving style can improve mpg significantly! Switching to a good Highway tire instead of an aggressive A/T can also improve mpg by 1 or 2 mpg. My preferred hwy tire are the Michelin Defenders. They also seem to last forever with proper alignment and rotations they can go up to 80k miles
the current defenders on my '97 taco rig have 85k miles (mostly long-haul freeway) and measured 7/32 tread life... not bad when they cost a bit over a grand out-the-door
i am looking to put some Falken wildPeaks on next... i wonder how the mileage will be with those, does anybody have experience with that brand?
@@efil4kizum expect around 50k from what I’ve seen people get
Nitto Ridge Grapplers for longer life and aggressive tread.
Driving Style for sure. Save Fuel, Tires and Brakes.
Great content Petr. FYI, I replaced the original Oxygen sensors with Denso parts on my 2008 Sienna @ 192,000 miles. No codes but noticed that they were responding rather slowly while monitoring OBDII data. My gasoline mileage increased by 3 MPG and we're now averaging 24 mpg in mixed driving.
damn 24mpg on a van is great! You said you replaced the O2 sensor even though the check engine light was not on?
@@agookchild yes the Toyota system was designed with knowledge that the CEL will immediately fail many emissions and as such that Japan has such strict demands on pollution control already, they designed it to not trip unless it is completely dead like for example exhaust poisoning through gas or oil and the extra snuffing caused the heater circuits to overload and burn out. But if it's just lazy aka slow to heat, that wastes fuel. But is still operable. This way you decide not the law.
@@LAactor thank you!!
Yup just like those spark plugs they were working but just Worn out.
Toyota parts are truly are long lasting.
@@LAactor Makes Sense I heard once change them when the plugs need changing. To be honest, I change the sensors when they fail. >.
Hi Peter, in my experience owning a well Made in Japan vehicles, the single most important item that can increase gas mileage is making sure the tires are properly inflated. I even add 3 or 4 PSI over the recommended PSI.
I can gain 2+mpg just by adding 10lbs of Psi to tires. As seasons change it's always a idea to check your tire pressure. I drive a 04 Taco with 565k mi on it. Best truck I've ever owned.
Great information. I have a 2013 Taco 4x4 TRD Sport 4X4 Double Cab with the 4.0L V6 and those that know, that engine can get thirsty when your right foot is a little heavy. I try to do all of maintenances that Peter recommends. So far so good. I also change my front and rear Diff oil. I also change my transfer case gear oil too about every 60,000 miles.
I just found you and your channel. Awesome. All of it is very clearly described along with great tips and hints. Have 2001 2WD Sequoia that I have taken very good care of over the years. 238,000 miles and it's running great. Used your tips to do the valve cover gasket replacement (had oil leaking in one of the tubes). Thanks so much!!!
Synthetic gear lubes in the front and rear differentials, transfer case and transmission can increase mileage slightly. And of course synthetic engine oil. Mostly though, having a light touch with the accelerator pedal improves mileage the most, even in a big old beast like this vehicle. Thank you
Bullshit
Another GREAT DETAILED JOB BY Peter!! Extreme QUALITY, NOT RUSHED!! great WORK!!
milkshake under oil fill cap is from short trip condensation , hard on an engine not letting it get up to full operating temp
A big factor is driving habits. We have a 2008 Highlander, which unfortunately has 3 plugs which are hard to get to. When I drive, the avg MPG (based on the display) is 24mpg. When my wife drives the same vehicle in the same area, her avv mpg is 17mpg. No significant difference other than the driver.
This is my problem too. For the life of me I cannot soft foot/under rev or dive gently to prevent it. I just will consistently get 15-18 no matter what.
I’ve got an 02 Tundra 4wd that I was able to squeeze 17 -17.5 mpg out of on the highway and that was with all my hunting gear this past deer season.
New plugs and went up 5psi on the tires but the big thing was keeping the engine at or just below 2000rpm which is around 63-65 mph. Did this all hunting season and the mpg’s were consistent. Before that I was see 15mpg on the highway but traveling at 70-75mph.
10 miles per hour makes a big difference .
What was the reasoning for bumping up the tire pressure?
Less rolling resistance
If time is no value to you, that's the way to go. For me, time is money (meaning more that I'm willing to pay for extra leisure time than that I'm trying to rush somewhere to make more money)
You also have to consider the thermal expansion/contraction of the fuel. What temperature was it when you bought it (out of the ground from the pump at the station) and what temperature was it when you were driving around. 10 gallons of gas at 60F = 9.6 gallons at 0F so right away before you even move you're going to get less miles to the gallon because you physically have less volume of gas in the tank when it's very cold outside.
I replaced the Iridium Denso plugs to a Twin tipped Denso Iridium spark plug. It’s advertised to burn cleaner, increase performance and longer lasting. My 2007 Tundra is very light on it’s accelerator.
Accelerating more slowly (when it is safe to do so) will also help increase mpg.
LOL
Plugs should change to iridium Denso. Should do a borescope look at the cylinders.
Great video, wish my 06 tundra had a trans dip stick, what year they change that? I hate it because makes it hard for me to service it now.
Thank you Peter. Good stuff. Very helpful.
Just changed the engine oil and air filter on my Honda HRX lawn mower. I've had the mower close to 10 years. I change the engine oil and air filter every year. I should check the spark plug as well. I think its the original. I try to sharpen blade once a year as well.
Preventative maintenance helps these engine last longer. I just learned Honda is no longer making these lawn mowers. Who knows how long the ICE will be around. I also change oil every 5k miles on the 2011 Sienna with 2GRFE. Sad to see Toyota is planning on phasing out that motor.. I guess I'll just stick to lawn maintenance and hope for the best. I'm looking forward to my next Saurkraut break. I tried German style kraut not such a big fan. Good night California 😴 and The Bay area and Geary Blvd.
I just changed my fuel filter last year on my 02 Tacoma. It was original. Made a difference on starting and mpg.
If new tires with an increased rolling resistance were recently installed that can also negatively effect MPGs. I noticed a 2 mpg difference when I switched from Michelin Energy Saver tires to Michelin Cross Climate 2 tires.
Also add some injector cleaner to the fuel tank occasionally might help.
I just had to replace the valve cover gaskets on my '05 Sequoia with 250K miles! Moving on to universal joint replacements next... Any recommendation on a brand/model number that's good? I would like to have a grease fitting on them for ease of servicing.
The hook part of the spark plug is called the ground electrode
I like to say ground strap to help people
Synthetic Gear Oils in the Transfer Case and Rear Diff will help MPG (imho) and brake drag too.
Another Excellent Informative Video, thanks Brother!!
Peter, you missed the opportunity to show and compare the old with the new spark plug gaps!
You can eliminate weight in the vehicle and that should help fuel economy. Also a water eliminator and injector cleaner in the fuel.
Thnx for sharing knowledge
Petr and everybody else… how do you remove corroded 10mm coilpack bolts that like to not act like 10mm bolts and just crumble? Shall I try an 8 or 9mm socket and be super careful? I might have to end up cutting them off lol. Almost 6yrs of owning an LX470 and the coilpacks and sparks are of unknown history. It’s at 291,000mi
Hi Peter.
Thank you for the good content. Sticking to Denso or OEM parts does make a big difference in MPG and longevity of the vehicle.
As part of the health check you can also test the fuel pump load pressure.
Under load it should not drop below 3Bar. It should spike directly to 3,2Bare when you press the gass peddle to the floor..
please make a o2 sensor/ catalic converter issue, it is very common on these car
All of the use cars i buy i find it necessary to change the spark plugs.
I always recommend ohming out the afr sensor(s) to see if their slow reaction time affects making the engine too far when unnecessary or too lean when otherwise needed and not available. Slow to accelerate when you stand on it? And it's not something that always slow? That's your sign. But use the numbers and compare to the expected range.
I also use the cleaners and protectwnt but Noco brand. And also the felt circles for the terminals to block the offgassing that makes the yellow crusties on the terms.
I also see the vehicle squatting some. Worn shocks or extra weight in the rear? That also can cause mileage rundown. My question is why leave the terminal so high up on the post? I put it far on as I can so it can't vibrate off or get knocked in a pothole or let the yellow crusties build up underneath.
And did you know.. you don't even need to use a cleaner. Hot water will melt it and it washes away. But definitely use the treatment after. Or any oil based spray. Or really any grease. Anything to coat and block. But the spray is more tacky and less messy.
And no jackrabbit starts because the higher rpm the more fuel you waste. No idling also. You waste fuel if you need the AC. Especially in an old car.
lmfao your profile picture fucked me up for a bit
Not sure if this engine uses ISC (idle speed control) valve but cleaning it can slightly improve gas mileage. My car 1UZ-FE was showing idle RPM below 600. Once cleaned, RPM became normal between 600-700. I would think 150K miles is a good interval for cleaning. Thanks for all your videos.
What spark plugs did you use Denso has 5304 or 4702?
On the battery and corroded connections.
I have had corrosion on the negative ground to chassis or the fender. It would affect fuel mileage and the motor would have a rough idle.
Oh what a feeling!!
If I had a salvage yard I would only buy Toyotas.
Dirty engine oil and sticking brake calipers can also decrease miles per gallon
Were the NGK plugs Not Iridium ?
Has anyone had any positive mpg results from throttle control products like: pedal commander/9drive etc. In "economy mode"?
I know that a throttle body spacer is useless in a non carburated vehicle. I have an 07 tundra 5.7 4x4 that Peter has worked on and I put in dual exhaust a year ago, an AEM DryFlow drop in air filter & a 9drive throttle control unit. Still only getting about 17.5-18mpg hwy. I guess that's the ceiling on these beastwagons. The only other thing Peter said could be done is tweaking with the ecm which is above my paygrade..
Nice one.
Can the pcv value hurt gas mileage?
It steals vacuum from the combustion chamber, so yes. Just make sure any pressure has a place to vent just in case.
Thanks for the video, good information.
Great vid...keep up great work
Just my thought but with my 2012 tundra 5.7 i keep rpm's under 2000. I also use cruise when on the highway generally about 65-67mph, no jackrabbit starts from stop and mostly air pressure. Question my truck has 77,850 mi on it, how often should plugs be done for this truck?
I believe it’s 192km which is about 120,000 miles
When would you recommend changing the fuel filter? Have you experienced a dirty fuel filter affecting mileage?
Every 100 thousand miles
Do the denso plugs come pre-gapped from Toyota ?
No but yes but no but yes…..
Yes but verify. You could damage the fine tip or Mar the platinum off the tip of you scratch too hard with the gauge tool
What about cleaning fuel injectors?
TY for this video 👍
A dirty air filter can contribute to poor fuel economy. I guess using an engine block heater would help too.
If it's so cold outside, no doubt the interior heater has been running constantly so that will affect mileage.
!?
Oil company's give us cheaper gas in cold seasons too (lower BTU value).
You obviously have no idea how a heater works in a vehicle.
@@aaronbrown6266 You don't warm up your car in cold weather?
Warming a car up and stating that an interior heater running affects mileage are two completely different things.@@anthonycolbourne4206
What is typical MPG for the 5.7l in the Tundra/Sequioa? I get 12.5 in my 2011 Tundra across the several months of ownership. Will be changing spark plugs soon and cleaning MAF.
I get 13 average in an 07 5.7 tundra. Probably closer to 16 if I'm taking it easy on the highway though.
We average 15 in our 2008. Pure highway is more like 18.
I understand wanting to get the most MPG that you can. However, trying to penny pinch a V8 is best cured by buying a Prius. V8's weren't designed to pinch pennies at the pump.They were made for torque and HP. Nothing more. Thank you Petr. Great video tutorial.
Any owner who normally gets a certain .MPG, and doesn't get it, knows that there is something wrong and wants to address that.
@@kellyquezada3908Came to say this.
Hello Peter. Should I perform a transmission drain and fill along with a filter change on my 2005 sequoia 180k? Currently the transmission shifts beautifully but I’ve read conflicting opinions on the subject. Should I just forget about and leave it alone since it has never been serviced ?
I'm in a similar situation. 2008 with 205k miles. First owner hauled a travel trailer... I think it should be changed if the transmission's going to last. Trouble is, as he said in another video (search for it on his channel), they made it so difficult that many of us may find it too difficult to do on our own.
I've performed two transmission fluid changes since I bought my '02 Sequoia 6 years and 100k ago. No problems with the transmission. Synthetic went in both times. I would think new and better formula stuff going in is better than old gunky dino juice staying in. Also something to consider is the oil cooler on the front. A flushing and filter change will prevent that from getting clogged as well.
I have a 2004 Tundra SR5 4x4 double cab. 👍🏻I’m taking your advice ✌🏻
Thanks for the video! Where is your shop?
I believe he is in Northern California or Central California.
@@markkrispin6944 northern
Would you want to schedule a detailed inspection? Must be willing to only show vehicle and not be on camera and leave vehicle so he can film in peace. Also it is not cheap.
Toyota/Lexus fuel mileage is just the Toyota Reliability Tax 💯
Yeah and they tune for reliability, not power.
What else...tire pressure?
Where is your shop located?
I think Northern Cali
@@durango8882 yes north
North, why? Where are you located
@@LAactor southern just looking for a good mechanic
lean fuel trim = mpg
Stop idling for no reason. Idling = 0 mpg. Also, turn OFF the auto temp climate control when the windows are down or the sunroof open. What's wrong with NGK?
You Rule!
If you can stand the rough ride, increase tire pressure to within a couple of pounds of the maximum listed on the tire sidewall. I run the old Expedition tires at 28 pounds, so it rides less like a truck. And I don't drive much. Always keeping my fuel tank on full eventually gave me a tankful of stale gasoline which would hardly burn. Stale gas which caused a 'stop and go' engine operation didn't set a trouble code. That surprised me. Running the fuel tank down below 1/8 full & adding $40 of fresh fuel, along with 3 fuel filter changes, solved the problem. I put some of the old gas from the fuel filter in a jar. It never did all evaporate. It left behind what looked like some kind of light oil which didn't smell like gasoline at all, nor did it smell like diesel. There was no water in it. You don't want any water to sit inside a fuel injector. So if you don't drive much, don't top off your fuel tank every couple of weeks.
Watch out for the rain coming your way, Peter. The Weather Channel said a lot more rain is on the way to California. So did the AccuWeather Channel. At least the drought will be over by spring.
The drought is a scam perpetrated by the news to force submission into the American people. Other countries have state television too
I have seen people separate ethanol from gas before. Does it ignite? If there is no gas left.. Be safe.
Great video, Stay dry.
Thank you for the informative video, Peter. Cheers my friend.🇨🇦🇺🇸
is the air filter oem.
Wait... I thought this was a joke... and he was going to say to buy a new car.
Denso all the way!
Keep the car WASHED! Dirt=extra air resistance, and possible extra weight in winter (ice and snow built up underneath). Ice and snow can also build up on and inside the wheels, throwing them literally off balance. Twice a month is usually good in my experience.
Keep it washed because of dirt adding wind resistance, 🤣🤣🤣. I heard on the radio show "car talk", where one lady brought that up (her husband wanted to wash their car before a trip) to the two brothers who were mechanics. One of them tried to explain how washing would not improve mileage, maybe .00000001 more miles a gallon, the other one couldn't stop laughing.
Myth busters. Dirt is also extra weight, and can contribute to rust... especially if salt in used in winter
@@jimelfman1369 Yeah, the extra 4 ounces makes a big difference.
Rust from salt is important to address, however.
NGK & Denso work together & often share parts, per Japanese gov't, keiretsu, forced to work with each other, to help support a fellow company, inside the country, to help the country grow/aka, Japanese forced internal patriotism. =)
Hello!
😎
Gas killer 😭
Buy a Corolla. 😂 save gas.
don't drive it
Please use your words correctly:
You cannot “increase” gas mileage!
You can simply RESTORE the gas mileage *closer* to specs.
Well the spec on our 2009 is 28 mpg highway. I'm assuming the spec and rating are the same thing. I just got 32 mpg on my last tankfull of fuel. You don't call that an increase? I used Lucas injector cleaner in the tank along with ethanol-free top tier fuel.
If I'm getting 12 and then it goes to 15 that's an increase no matter where it should have been all along. So STFU
Wanna save gas ride a horse
How to increase gas mileage in your car... give the kiddos some sugary candy and tell them to push!