The nicest and best quality electrician available. Replaced my whole panel , installed GFCIs and explained all his work throughly. This was 3 years ago and still the electrician I call.
Very good information for electrical service upgrade. Homeowners can do the upgrade by themselves, DIY, as long as they pull permit and get inspection. Most county/city allow homeowners do DIY if the property is the primary residential of the homeowner. Commercial or rental properties can be done only by a licensed electrician.
why does a homeowner need to pull permit and get inspection. What does that mean? I am a homeowner and need to replace my inside electrical panel because it is an old federal unit. My homeowners insurance told me I have 30 days to replace it. They didn't say anything about a permit? thanks
Emma // If you don’t understand why permit and inspection is needed in major renovations, the job isn’t for you. I recommend to hire a license electrician. Of course, the electrician also need to pull a permit and get an inspection.
@@erictold I wish I could hire a professional but they're too expensive. They told me over $1000 for 5 hours of work. I'm not paying anyone $200+ an hour, that's ridiculous! Doctors don't even make that much. I saw the parts for sale at home depot so I have to try to do it myself by following youtube videos/tutorials. I have an old federal panel and my home owners insurance said I must change it within 30 days or I can't have their insurance anymore. It's working fine but I am being forced to change it.
Lol well tell your insurance company to find a hat to violate! A lot of “electricians are like lawyers of the construction world “ I change my own nothing special take your time can easily do in a day. Good luck
Check your local codes. No permit is required here where we live. But the inspection is important. First inspectors make sure that all materials are compliant. Second, utility companies won't reconnect your service without an inspection sticker. Inspectors are your friend. I've done plenty of service upgrades and I call my inspector for details before I price a job.
Went there to start the services for our apartment. The lady who helped me was very helpful and nice, even though I had to interrupt the process to call to gather a piece of information.
At 9:17 - The ground rods will NOT prevent electrocution, nor will they clear a fault. Those are mainly used as lightning surge protection, to prevent a lightning strike from setting the house on fire. As a licensed electrician, the guy in the video should know that.
Not entirely correct. In a TT system in particular they do under certain conditions (as we know electricity takes the path of least resistance). Let's say you are wearing shoes and touching the metal part of your fridge with your hand and suddenly there occurs a ground fault, your shoes and and the connection between the ground rod and the metal part of your fridge potentially prevent lethal current from flowing through your body as most of the current will the take the path of protective earth wire and potentially trip the breaker even if it only offers over current protection (assuming there is no gfci receptacle or breaker installed).
@@toneman8478 Yes, we break the seal and remove the meter ourselves. And if working with the line side of the meter, we put gloves on and cut the service drop wires from the connections, and reconnect when done.
@H T Yes. If the service is underground, then we simply remove it to upgrade the panel in the basement, and to replace the main service conductors (load side) with larger ones if necessary. If the service is overhead, then the whole thing needs to be replaced. We remove the meter first, then cut the service drop conductors at the point of connection. Remove all old wires and meter base, then replace with new. After work is complete, put gloves on and reconnect to service drop conductors. In both cases, afterwards, call power company, tell them what you did, then they will come out at their convenience and re-seal the meter base.
@@Jeff-xy7fv what type of connectors do you use up top to the utility? Do they have a list of approved connectors? I worked a lot of industry and typically use 12 ton compression lugs for motor connections. I didn't know if they would fly or they want an h-tap or c-tap that I have never really used. Thanks!
I prefer the older BX cables as opposed to the plastic Romex cable, it’s less prone to being punctured by a nail or screw or chewed by a rodent; also eliminates the need for bare grounding wires.
BX with steel jacketing? Steel has a much higher resistance to current flow than copper. Kinda defeats the whole purpose, of a safe means of proper grounding, no?
Because they are usually 1 day jobs and you can't make money waiting on a Utility to decide when they can temporarily disconnect the service. So we cut the service and get to work. No time wasted this way. Sometimes I even attach a temporary set-up and run power for anything I need while doing the job if I am without access to a generator. This is not that uncommon of a practice. Also, find away to keep my client's refrigerator or anything else of importance on to them while I have their power disconnected. After I am finished and have talked to the AHJ they pass inspection a cut-in card is resubmitted. I leave the Electric company with 3 temporary in line splices up high and they come and put FINAL CRIMP SPLICES on my attachement point. I always wanted to ask one of the higher ups if I could have my temp splices back..🤣🤣🤣🤣, thry have to have at least 1000 from me over the years.
Agreed. Don’t like the outdoor portion of this installation at all. First of all, the initial hole in the side of the house was entirely too big. The meter socket installation with a back exit cable was also a poor choice. It drops the meter too low on the house and will be something you can easily bunk into when mowing or doing yard work. It will also be a nightmare in the event the homeowner wants to install new siding. Lastly, while plastic PVC pipe is cost effective, I wouldn’t want it on my house.
@@MrScottie68 i personally have never seen the main ground going to the water pipe. the main ground goes from the panel and is attached to the ground rods outside. the water pipe and all other necessary pipes are then bonded to the panel. the alternative thing that i would do in terms of entering the house is mounting the meter higher and running a pvc out the bottom of the meter and into the house in the existing hole.
Unless you have risk of physical damage ( like running over by a vehicle) a rigid PVC is good( code compliance). Because you want to save money for the customer and yourself.
Corrosion is also a factor to consider, most rigid pipe is galvanized steel. If you live in a humid climate or coastal area you will want to use either pvc or aluminum. 9/10 we use pvc since its cheaper and can last a very long time
The TOH answers for anything other than repotting a petunia or removing a nail: "Hire someone else!" or "Buy this new-fangled thing!", but dear God, don't you dare fix it yourself!
I do not have a water meter to ground the panel to. I installed two lightning rods outside 7 feet away and those have a bare copper wire running to the meter socket. Would I also run an additional bare wire from panel to lightning rod?
I got lucky with driving my ground rods as well. I had a hammer drill and each one only took about 2 minutes. Thank God we don't have hard clay or rock where I live
@5:20: Holy crap, Scott! You sure that hole will be big enough? A little bigger and you could count it as an egress. Perfect example of an electrician who doesn't know or care about structure or insulation.
and how did all the existing wires end up way too long in a much taller panel where the old breakers were almost all above the top of the first breakers of the new panel. I see a new quad receptacle box that was not there before. looks to me you had to go back and add j-boxes or rewire from the first boxes from the panel. Didn't include that is this video I see.
take the old panel to the scrap yard? Sell it or use it in a shed. Wow, this guy is made of money. I just upgraded my sub panel from 12 breakers and number six copper se to 100 amp 30 breaker panel with thhn number 2 copper out through the wall and up the outside main panel inside inch and a half pvc. When I pulled the old wires out the last thing that crossed my mind was to just cut them right off of the breakers because I was too lazy to turn the screws. You could have just one wire be just long enough to make it back to a breaker without cutting it off of the breaker. But hey, it was my house and my wallet. Not so much for mr pay me over 100 dollars and hour to run a new wire to your outlet because I cut it too short. Oh, and I am an electrician of over 20 years. Never cut a wire till it is groomed back in to a set measurement. This goes for new installations too.
So I’m guessing the electrician typically leaves wire sticking out the top of the mast and the utility makes the connections? Or is the electrician responsible?
I re-connect after I've gone through the proper procedure with the AHJ. Power company can be slow at times and I don't like leaving the homeowner without power when Im done. I tap with temporary in-line splices and the the Electric company comes back and puts on final crimps and pockets 3 of my splices 😂
Seems like a nice job. I do question the ground wire being clamped to the copper water pipe. Is that code? It doesn't sound that safe because if the ground does end up live and diverting electricity away from the circuit, it would travel through the pipes and water and offer a potential to zap you while washing your hands or bathing. I don't feel that water pipes should be used as a ground. But I am no pro and defer to them on this.
If the ground ends up live, it's going into the ground, not you. The only reason it wants to go through you is to get to the ground, but if it has a lower impedance option, it'll ignore you. Even if an evil person cut the ground connection to the earth in an attempt to shock you, the electricity wants to travel through the pipe to the ground. The metal water pipe is physically connected to the earth, so the evil person who cut your ground line can't shock you in your bathtub. You want as many connections to the ground as possible. If anything, it is healthy for you to be grounded to the earth.
Simple process, panel is $400, permit is maybe another $300... electricians charge like $3000 in labor though to replace it. Id do it myself if laws didnt require a licensed contractor for this type of job. Yes its dangerous, but if you do it properly you will be fine.
The ground runs from the first ground to the second ground then straight into the panel. Then a second ground wire runs from the panel to the water meter. The meter box does not get grounded, other than by the SE cable. And the panel does get bonded which means a screw runs through the neural bar into the panel
Question and PLEASE help........when upgrading service........I want to move my Circuit breaker box out of the area of the bathroom..... to the mechanical room. Will that cost a lot to move?
do you have underground burial or overheads? your panel has to be very close to the meter, if you move to different location they will need to move the SE cables, and that is where the big cost would be.
Its actually allowable at 3 locations. Where the service connects to utility. You can tie it on nuetral wire. Which is almost never done. The meter socket is acceptable by code and the main disconnect is acceptable and most common. If the main disconnect and meter socket have pvc raceway between them , you bond with the nuetral and not ground. Confusing right.
Requirements vary based on location. In Tennessee, they go into the meter base. In Michigan, they have to go into the panel; not allowed in the meter base.
Probably depends on where you live but I got it priced going from 150 to 200 with a manual transfer switch $5200. That’s 2018 pricing with all permits. This was much simpler but basically the same job.
@UCFACsTO9NrYl4XTRbOo9ewA bonds at main meter base through a ground running from ground rod bonded to the meter cabinet ground continues to main panel and is landed on the ground terminal and the panel is not bonded with neutrals there that's were they seperate
@@shanebibby6006 - I actually think he did it right. Im almost positive its bonded with the nuetral from main panel to meter socket. Because he used s.e. cable and not conduit. If he separated the grounds and nuetrals in the main and did it the way you're saying , it would create an actual circuit path. Objectionable currents.
@@willcamp6319 AL conductors are one size bigger than CU for the same amperage. Example: 150A service uses 1/0 copper conductors, or 2/0 aluminum ones.
Why do people use aluminium for main lines? The NEC requires such a larger cable vs copper. Also, you're not going to address the wires just hanging out next to the box, hanging all bunched up? FFS.
Aluminium is fine for SE cable. 4/0 4/0 4/0 2/0 copper SE wire is 4 times expensive than aluminium SE wire. $18/ft vs $4/ft, or $1,800 vs $400 for 100ft. It's also much easy to handle or bend the bundled aluminium SE cable. I would use copper SE cable in short distance inside a building, or aluminium otherwise.
The nicest and best quality electrician available. Replaced my whole panel , installed GFCIs and explained all his work throughly. This was 3 years ago and still the electrician I call.
Shery Mitchell how much does something like that cost
@@jayfox5 2,000 to 2,500..I'm getting it done next week..luckily I know the electrician from back In the day so only 2,000 for me
@@hopeforthefuturesg $2,500 is pretty cheap for that job, $2,000 is robbery. That's a $3500 job easy.
@@bc1173 ya the guy I know did it for 2,000.. passed inspection. So I guess it was a good deal?
@@bc1173 I start off at 2200 but I live in the poorest state so gotta keep the rates a little low
Excellent! I want this guy doing the electrical work on my house! I like his style and ethic!
great video, i wish all my jobs went this smooth 😂
true lmao
Only in Lala land bro lol
Nice to see someone takin pride n what they do
i realize it is kinda off topic but does anybody know a good website to stream newly released series online ?
@Eugene Quentin meh atm I've been using flixportal. You can find it thru google=) -brendan
@Brendan Reuben thanks, I went there and it seems to work :) Appreciate it!!
@Eugene Quentin happy to help xD
Thanks my house already has 200 amp service except it has a split bus panel I am replacing it with a regular one 👍
Very good information for electrical service upgrade. Homeowners can do the upgrade by themselves, DIY, as long as they pull permit and get inspection. Most county/city allow homeowners do DIY if the property is the primary residential of the homeowner. Commercial or rental properties can be done only by a licensed electrician.
why does a homeowner need to pull permit and get inspection. What does that mean? I am a homeowner and need to replace my inside electrical panel because it is an old federal unit. My homeowners insurance told me I have 30 days to replace it. They didn't say anything about a permit? thanks
Emma // If you don’t understand why permit and inspection is needed in major renovations, the job isn’t for you. I recommend to hire a license electrician. Of course, the electrician also need to pull a permit and get an inspection.
@@erictold I wish I could hire a professional but they're too expensive. They told me over $1000 for 5 hours of work. I'm not paying anyone $200+ an hour, that's ridiculous! Doctors don't even make that much. I saw the parts for sale at home depot so I have to try to do it myself by following youtube videos/tutorials. I have an old federal panel and my home owners insurance said I must change it within 30 days or I can't have their insurance anymore. It's working fine but I am being forced to change it.
Lol well tell your insurance company to find a hat to violate!
A lot of “electricians are like lawyers of the construction world “
I change my own nothing special take your time can easily do in a day. Good luck
Check your local codes. No permit is required here where we live. But the inspection is important. First inspectors make sure that all materials are compliant. Second, utility companies won't reconnect your service without an inspection sticker. Inspectors are your friend. I've done plenty of service upgrades and I call my inspector for details before I price a job.
SV, this is a better, more complete video than the two separate videos on This Old House channel
Went there to start the services for our apartment. The lady who helped me was very helpful and nice, even though I had to interrupt the process to call to gather a piece of information.
This is a great educational video
At 9:17 - The ground rods will NOT prevent electrocution, nor will they clear a fault. Those are mainly used as lightning surge protection, to prevent a lightning strike from setting the house on fire. As a licensed electrician, the guy in the video should know that.
Correct 👍
Yep and they only pull a small amount of current back through on a dead short the majority goes right through the neutral
You are 1000% correct...
Not entirely correct. In a TT system in particular they do under certain conditions (as we know electricity takes the path of least resistance). Let's say you are wearing shoes and touching the metal part of your fridge with your hand and suddenly there occurs a ground fault, your shoes and and the connection between the ground rod and the metal part of your fridge potentially prevent lethal current from flowing through your body as most of the current will the take the path of protective earth wire and potentially trip the breaker even if it only offers over current protection (assuming there is no gfci receptacle or breaker installed).
Came for the electrical stayed for the butterflies and moths
Nice but that big hole drilled was overkill lol
Yeah,and then he uses a smaller one right after. Was very funny.
At 15:32 - In the Detroit area, we don't call the power company for these; we disconnect and reconnect ourselves while energized. Gloves must be worn.
How do you disconnect the power to the house from the outside lines then? Remove the meter yourself?
@@toneman8478 Yes, we break the seal and remove the meter ourselves. And if working with the line side of the meter, we put gloves on and cut the service drop wires from the connections, and reconnect when done.
@H T Yes. If the service is underground, then we simply remove it to upgrade the panel in the basement, and to replace the main service conductors (load side) with larger ones if necessary. If the service is overhead, then the whole thing needs to be replaced. We remove the meter first, then cut the service drop conductors at the point of connection. Remove all old wires and meter base, then replace with new. After work is complete, put gloves on and reconnect to service drop conductors.
In both cases, afterwards, call power company, tell them what you did, then they will come out at their convenience and re-seal the meter base.
@@Jeff-xy7fv what type of connectors do you use up top to the utility? Do they have a list of approved connectors? I worked a lot of industry and typically use 12 ton compression lugs for motor connections. I didn't know if they would fly or they want an h-tap or c-tap that I have never really used. Thanks!
@@doinedaname We just use parallel-groove taps. Like Home Depot SKU #451369.
It's interesting...how things differ from region to region
Is it just me or do these videos look like they were filmed in the mid 2000's? i know most of these aired in early 2010's so i dont understand.
I prefer the older BX cables as opposed to the plastic Romex cable, it’s less prone to being punctured by a nail or screw or chewed by a rodent; also eliminates the need for bare grounding wires.
BX with steel jacketing? Steel has a much higher resistance to current flow than copper. Kinda defeats the whole purpose, of a safe means of proper grounding, no?
Fun fact. Homeowners can pull the permit upgrade their own service in most places. It still probably a bad idea for most folks though.
Your job looks very professional but your "Client" is very obvious is not a client. 😂😂😂😂
"So what we need to do is drill a bigger hole" *client hands him a hole saw and drill* Wow i wish my clients were like that
We have to do this shit live most of the time.
Why?
Because they are usually 1 day jobs and you can't make money waiting on a Utility to decide when they can temporarily disconnect the service. So we cut the service and get to work. No time wasted this way. Sometimes I even attach a temporary set-up and run power for anything I need while doing the job if I am without access to a generator. This is not that uncommon of a practice. Also, find away to keep my client's refrigerator or anything else of importance on to them while I have their power disconnected. After I am finished and have talked to the AHJ they pass inspection a cut-in card is resubmitted. I leave the Electric company with 3 temporary in line splices up high and they come and put FINAL CRIMP SPLICES on my attachement point. I always wanted to ask one of the higher ups if I could have my temp splices back..🤣🤣🤣🤣, thry have to have at least 1000 from me over the years.
How can you cut the service if it’s energized????
Nasir Cooper so long as you don’t short it you should be fine.
Changing that siding will be Tricky😂
Agreed. Don’t like the outdoor portion of this installation at all. First of all, the initial hole in the side of the house was entirely too big. The meter socket installation with a back exit cable was also a poor choice. It drops the meter too low on the house and will be something you can easily bunk into when mowing or doing yard work. It will also be a nightmare in the event the homeowner wants to install new siding. Lastly, while plastic PVC pipe is cost effective, I wouldn’t want it on my house.
@@MrScottie68 i personally have never seen the main ground going to the water pipe. the main ground goes from the panel and is attached to the ground rods outside. the water pipe and all other necessary pipes are then bonded to the panel.
the alternative thing that i would do in terms of entering the house is mounting the meter higher and running a pvc out the bottom of the meter and into the house in the existing hole.
Clark Griswold had an 800 amp panel
Great video what’s up with the butterfly sales haha
Instead of the PVC for your panel upgrade service Why not a 2 inch ridge pipe
Unless you have risk of physical damage ( like running over by a vehicle) a rigid PVC is good( code compliance). Because you want to save money for the customer and yourself.
Corrosion is also a factor to consider, most rigid pipe is galvanized steel. If you live in a humid climate or coastal area you will want to use either pvc or aluminum. 9/10 we use pvc since its cheaper and can last a very long time
That’s what I was thinking, I’ve never worked or have seen it in PVC. Strange.
@@joelosorio7870 i've only seen it in pvc or SE wire, never ridget.
Can’t believe you turned on the main without walking in the other breakers
If there is no copper water line to connect the ground to,would you connect the ground to the ground rods?
The TOH answers for anything other than repotting a petunia or removing a nail: "Hire someone else!" or "Buy this new-fangled thing!", but dear God, don't you dare fix it yourself!
very good. good work. salvador Bahia Brasil.
I do not have a water meter to ground the panel to. I installed two lightning rods outside 7 feet away and those have a bare copper wire running to the meter socket. Would I also run an additional bare wire from panel to lightning rod?
you run a main bonding (ground) wire from the panel to the underground rods yeah.
Awesome freaking guy
how did his ground rods go in that smooth?
Seems like we get stuck with clay soil lol
Ikr
I got lucky with driving my ground rods as well. I had a hammer drill and each one only took about 2 minutes. Thank God we don't have hard clay or rock where I live
He pulled his sledgehammer out of his back pocket and hit the rods
@5:20: Holy crap, Scott! You sure that hole will be big enough? A little bigger and you could count it as an egress. Perfect example of an electrician who doesn't know or care about structure or insulation.
Absolutely unnecessary
and how did all the existing wires end up way too long in a much taller panel where the old breakers were almost all above the top of the first breakers of the new panel. I see a new quad receptacle box that was not there before. looks to me you had to go back and add j-boxes or rewire from the first boxes from the panel. Didn't include that is this video I see.
WHY would they?
That's why I watched the video to see how he was gonna extend the wires
take the old panel to the scrap yard? Sell it or use it in a shed. Wow, this guy is made of money. I just upgraded my sub panel from 12 breakers and number six copper se to 100 amp 30 breaker panel with thhn number 2 copper out through the wall and up the outside main panel inside inch and a half pvc. When I pulled the old wires out the last thing that crossed my mind was to just cut them right off of the breakers because I was too lazy to turn the screws. You could have just one wire be just long enough to make it back to a breaker without cutting it off of the breaker. But hey, it was my house and my wallet. Not so much for mr pay me over 100 dollars and hour to run a new wire to your outlet because I cut it too short. Oh, and I am an electrician of over 20 years. Never cut a wire till it is groomed back in to a set measurement. This goes for new installations too.
Catch that stripped screw on that clamp?
So I’m guessing the electrician typically leaves wire sticking out the top of the mast and the utility makes the connections? Or is the electrician responsible?
The utility company will reconnect the service to the grid.
I re-connect after I've gone through the proper procedure with the AHJ. Power company can be slow at times and I don't like leaving the homeowner without power when Im done. I tap with temporary in-line splices and the the Electric company comes back and puts on final crimps and pockets 3 of my splices 😂
We have two local electric providers. One will let you disconnect/ reconnect. The other, they insist on disconnect/reconnecting.
Seems like a nice job. I do question the ground wire being clamped to the copper water pipe. Is that code? It doesn't sound that safe because if the ground does end up live and diverting electricity away from the circuit, it would travel through the pipes and water and offer a potential to zap you while washing your hands or bathing. I don't feel that water pipes should be used as a ground. But I am no pro and defer to them on this.
Joseph Wickham Its a must, do it with your water heater if you have copper service lines.
If the ground ends up live, it's going into the ground, not you.
The only reason it wants to go through you is to get to the ground, but if it has a lower impedance option, it'll ignore you.
Even if an evil person cut the ground connection to the earth in an attempt to shock you, the electricity wants to travel through the pipe to the ground. The metal water pipe is physically connected to the earth, so the evil person who cut your ground line can't shock you in your bathtub.
You want as many connections to the ground as possible. If anything, it is healthy for you to be grounded to the earth.
It's code
Came for the video about the electric panel upgrade, stayed for the butterflies.
Im not sure though but I don't think you can have the white wire on the same busbar as the plan copper wire.
If it's the main
Simple process, panel is $400, permit is maybe another $300... electricians charge like $3000 in labor though to replace it. Id do it myself if laws didnt require a licensed contractor for this type of job. Yes its dangerous, but if you do it properly you will be fine.
So from the geoundinging electrode do you run,the ground straight into the panel or you ground the outside meter only?
It all has to be bonded.
The ground runs from the first ground to the second ground then straight into the panel. Then a second ground wire runs from the panel to the water meter. The meter box does not get grounded, other than by the SE cable. And the panel does get bonded which means a screw runs through the neural bar into the panel
Shouldn't that ground cable coming from the box to the water pipe be insulated?
Yes that would be the right thing to do
Insulated wire
Or in some pipe or pvc
Ground wires/cables come bare so no it doesn't have to be insulated
Question and PLEASE help........when upgrading service........I want to move my Circuit breaker box out of the area of the bathroom..... to the mechanical room. Will that cost a lot to move?
do you have underground burial or overheads? your panel has to be very close to the meter, if you move to different location they will need to move the SE cables, and that is where the big cost would be.
If it's further than a foot or so, you are looking at re wiring the whole house. All of those small individual wires have to be moved as well.
@@zososldier I have a hunch that it's really just a sub panel in the bathroom.
It could cost some money because you would need to splice and then extend those wire to the mechanic room
Very Good!... #185 ✝ {12-5-2022}
Black wire as ground?
it has green tape on it indicating its a ground
The wire from the ground rods should go directly into the panel ground bar. I think. I've never put it in the meter can.
Its actually allowable at 3 locations. Where the service connects to utility. You can tie it on nuetral wire. Which is almost never done. The meter socket is acceptable by code and the main disconnect is acceptable and most common. If the main disconnect and meter socket have pvc raceway between them , you bond with the nuetral and not ground. Confusing right.
@@LucifersDeathSquad that's interesting thanks for the explanation. Some codes are crazy
Requirements vary based on location. In Tennessee, they go into the meter base. In Michigan, they have to go into the panel; not allowed in the meter base.
Says home owners should not do their own electrical work, yeah hahahahaha
No exterior disconnect?
What did the entire job cost the client
We are using this in a school assignment at ROJHS lol
no room, except for the extra wire slot on every breaker ever...
How much will you have to spend for a job like this?
2k MAx
Probably depends on where you live but I got it priced going from 150 to 200 with a manual transfer switch $5200. That’s 2018 pricing with all permits. This was much simpler but basically the same job.
I paid $4000 when I did my house
@@angelf9800 holy crap
Wow very expensive and I need to getting done to my house in Bakersfield ca
what is the tool he is pushing on the wire with?
the back of a hammer
Damn, Danny couldn’t make sales at his t shirt shop so he couldnt pay the light bill for the shore house
How long does this take?
16 minutes
full day at least.
Making the home owner to turn the main breaker on😂😂😂 that was very safe, at least count your circuits
I'd suggest to look away when turning on breakers. What do you mean at least count your circuits?
The magic of TV 😑
So why is this video up if y’all are saying Home owners shouldn’t mess with it
So people can have an idea of what the job entails, but they don't include every step, which makes it almost pointless.
He forgot about clearness space around panel it means you can't have any water pipes according to codes
If replacing an existing panel from back before such a code rule was enacted, they will allow it. At least in Michigan.
Looks like Scott Caron stopped working for the show, due to his contract of 7 years.
That meter? lol...people will cheat it to make it running slower than it should be :) LoL
I didn’t see him use the cream to prevent oxidation on the aluminum wires.
Yep , sure enough.
You dont have to. Maybe some areas may require it but the NEC does not.
He does use noalox
To bad your out of code grounds gotta be seperate
Not on the main panel dipshit.
@@LucifersDeathSquad ya I know in the meter base they together dipshit.
@UCFACsTO9NrYl4XTRbOo9ewA bonds at main meter base through a ground running from ground rod bonded to the meter cabinet ground continues to main panel and is landed on the ground terminal and the panel is not bonded with neutrals there that's were they seperate
@@shanebibby6006 - I actually think he did it right. Im almost positive its bonded with the nuetral from main panel to meter socket. Because he used s.e. cable and not conduit. If he separated the grounds and nuetrals in the main and did it the way you're saying , it would create an actual circuit path. Objectionable currents.
@@shanebibby6006 - ruclips.net/video/wyPTtN6QjzQ/видео.html
Check out @4:11
Not impressed
Yeah. He should have used a Square-D Homeline panel instead!
@@Jeff-xy7fv and all copper conductors also
@@willcamp6319 There's nothing wrong with aluminum service conductors. But I wouldn't use AL for anything else.
@@Jeff-xy7fv I don't completely trust al conductors. Plus if you don't put one size bigger al it might cause a fire
@@willcamp6319 AL conductors are one size bigger than CU for the same amperage. Example: 150A service uses 1/0 copper conductors, or 2/0 aluminum ones.
Why do people use aluminium for main lines? The NEC requires such a larger cable vs copper. Also, you're not going to address the wires just hanging out next to the box, hanging all bunched up? FFS.
Aluminium is cheaper, even at larger gauges.
Aluminium is fine for SE cable. 4/0 4/0 4/0 2/0 copper SE wire is 4 times expensive than aluminium SE wire. $18/ft vs $4/ft, or $1,800 vs $400 for 100ft. It's also much easy to handle or bend the bundled aluminium SE cable. I would use copper SE cable in short distance inside a building, or aluminium otherwise.
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