Hi, Just wanted to say a little bit about safety............... oops sorry, watched your videos so much I got carried away there😉 Seriously though thanks a million for being so patient and detailed in your description of how to remove/reinstall cylinder head and setup new timing chain etc. It should make you proud that lots of amateurs are using your guidance to step them through the process. My wife's mini suffered the identical fate of yours, jumped timing chain, death rattle then 8 bent valves, took it to a couple garages and just about fainted at the estimates to repair it. I dabble mechanically, put engines into small tractors etc but never taken on anything like this. I watched your videos repeatedly with my 23 yr old son and eventually got the courage to take it on. After day one my garage had more bits in it than could have imagined, oh shit I thought, I hope we remember where they! We watched a few other videos and decided to Lapp new exhaust valves ourselves as well to try and save some money, as you say "if they weren't so nice to drive, you wouldn't bother" we also found the subframe to be rotten so decided to go ahead and source a 2nd hand one tidy it up fit new wishbone bushes etc and put it all back together hoping the engine work was going to be worth it. Over the Christmas holidays we worked some long days but delighted to say it looks like it has paid off, a couple of days ago at around 10.30 at night we got to the point ready to try the engine. We're Scottish, so naturally we agreed, if it started we would go back to the house and have a wee dram (whisky of course!) and if it exploded, then we would still go up to the house and have a wee dram!! Thankfully it was a celebratory dram, it started first turn! Absolutely delighted, a great father/son experience together, two days in and it is running better than it ever did. We saved a bit of money in the process, it wasn't about that though, we learned so much and that's all thanks to people like you. So thank you very much and keep up your good work, if your ever over in Scotland I'd love to buy you a whisky to say thanks in person.😀
Thanks for the kind words, Murray! Glad the videos gave you the confidence to take on this project. I've always wanted to go to Scotland. My ancestry going back to the 1400's was from the county of Cork. If I ever make it over, I'll look you up.
Hey man, you do a great job and you are really careful and you really understand what you do. Thank you for your videos! Little hint from my side to ease your work: to remove the crankshaft seal (above video around minute 4+), there is a much easier way: just hit the top of the seal with a 5 millimeter drift and it comes out on the bottom side just like this. Nice greets from Germany!
Rather than drilling and installing screws, I use a long prybar for the seal, against the frame rail and gently force it out from the top inside edge of the seal. Great video though for the Mini specific info especially.
I've seen conflicting videos about the crank shaft bolt / sprocket being left loose when installing the chain and tensioner etc fully and only when everything is in place then it is torqued up. But I've noted you torqued crank bolt up before fitting the tensioner. I thought the sprocket was left loose so that all the play in the chain is taken out? Just wondering what to do now lol which way is best? Great set of tutorials though really helpful Thanks 👍
Small tip #1: To remove the spark plugs, if you don't have or want to buy the BMW spark plug socket, you can use a long15 mm six-point socket. It does not have the rubber bushing to hold the plug, but I used a medium claw grabber tool to pick the plugs out of their shafts and to lower the plugs back down and hand-tighten before using the 15 mm again. The torque on the plugs is low, so you're not going to strip them with the 15mm. The claw grabber is a must-have tool for anyone who ever drops nuts and bolts in an engine compartment, so it’s worth having. Get one with a light. Small tip #2: There are cheaper camshaft locking tools on ebay. I bought one new for about $55. My locking kit came without the vital instructions, but there's a youtube video on that. Small tip #3: I did a bit of reading on this. A DIYer said the Feltpro seal is better than the Corteco brand seal and better than the Mini original, at half the price. Also, the Mini-specific seal replacement tool which Pelican Parts says you MUST have costs “only” $120. The one in the video looks a lot less expensive. However, a DIYer said you could buy a female coupling for 2" PVC pipe, and use a block of wood over it to tap the seal in. The coupling cost $1.59.
Bill Donovan. Great tips! My plugs were 12pt, 14mm. Maybe there is a replacement plug that uses the 15 mm socket, but it wouldn't work on mine. I saw the cheaper cam tools on eBay too. I opted for what seemed like better quality. My only regret is my set didn't have the pre-tensioner tool in it. I had to buy that separate.
Hi Paul, I just completed my chain replacement today. However the engine won’t start. It turns, but doesn’t start up. I checked the timing again and it looks right. Both cam stamping facing up when the locking tool is in place. My valves are fine since I changed the chain when engine is still working. I was wondering if you can give some clue why it won’t start? I suspect the vanos is not in the rest position. Everything else seem right. Thanks in advance.
Great videos- quick question to be clear - when breaking the crank bolt loose, (and when you torqued the new bolt) you just used the flywheel locking pin to hold the crank in place ?
Same question here. I am in the process of replacing the timing chain on my '07 S and some videos suggest 20 ft lbs while others sat 15 ft lbs. Is there a correct number? Thanks for the help.
Thank you i just got one and i have not drove it 500 miles and i heard the sound on a cold start the car has 76,000 and has never been done i got every thing i needed from you video's thank you very much i could have done this but its going to make the job so much more simple thank again. FYI when you buy one i have put 1,000 in it now had to have my axles rebuild and shipped off timing and tool's tires and next motor mounts and hubs.
Love the videos! I can't find a video that shows you completing the head replacement and cranking up the car. It was a success I'm sure, but I would love to see the fruits of your labor. Thanks again. I'm having a new head put on my R56 this week.
@@robsgarage894 I hope everyone was safe, family, pets etc. I have a feeling you might just get another Mini someday. Take care. I’ll let you know when I’m back on the road! 🏁
eatonpeaches just enough sure to use the pre-tensioner that comes with the timing kit. mine didn't come with one and I had to adjust it a few times to get it right. the pre-tensioner goes in the tensioner hole in the head and takes the slack out of the chain before you tighten the sprocket bolts.
Ten Months Later...Partial Do-Over? I am hearing the rattle again. Not very bad. I took the valve cover gasket off and inspected. The top rail is slightly bent and not aligned perfectly with the chain. No cracks, no missing plastic, but definitely not perfectly aligned at the end where the chain comes up from. Very likely, the chain is hitting it. I suspect that the aftermarket repair kit included a weak chain tensioner. I noticed back when I did the repair that it had more spring pressure than the old one, but not a huge amount more. So I am going to buy a Mini second-generation chain tensioner ($64 at Pelican, $69 ECS and Amazon, $79 Minimania) and a new top rail, put them in, and hope for the best. If I have correctly diagnosed the cause, then maybe one should not buy an aftermarket chain tensioner. Mini has changed the design about five times, and the aftermarket may not have the latest one.
Awesome videos. I am getting ready to do this on my 2007 Mini. Do you still have the crankshaft (timing chain) alignment tool? If so, I would be interested in renting it or purchasing it. Thanks again.
Great video. Very informative. There were maybe 4 variations made on the chain tensioner. Is the replacement with the latest tensioner made by simply replacing the old with the latest? Or can the chain skip time when removing the old tensioner?
All camshaft sprocket bolts must be replaced because they are torque-to-yield bolts. They cannot be re-used. You can get them on eBay. Thats where I got most of my parts.
Hi...couple of quick questions if you have time to reply would be greatly appreciated... regarding the vanous hub on the intake camshaft,I know there is no keyway,but is there a certain way it has to be fitted to the camshaft regarding oil feeds to the hub or is it just simply placed on..?and also because the valve timing was out,did it cause any internal damage to the engine... thanks
Jason, there is no specific way the VANOS sprocket goes on. Once you get both sprockets on, use chain tension adjustment tool placed in the tensioner hole in the back of the engine to take the slack out of the chain before you tighten the sprocket bolts. On mine, it jumped time and bent all 8 exhaust valves. Had to have the head rebuilt. New intake exhaust valves, valve job and head milled.
@@miniadventure8714 thanks very much for the reply..I've got a Peugeot rcz with the same engine in it that has done exactly the same thing as yours..I think to follow your procedure and install the new chain kit..if it sounds the same as yours did upon cranking,I know it's going to be along and expensive road ahead for the owner..cheers Jason
Thanks for the videos.. helping me a lot. When you torqued down the crank hub bolt how did you secure it from spinning? Did you use the 5th gear/brake technique or leave the locking pin/tools in place or use a crank holding tool?
Mini Adventure thanks. I just finished my work today - timing chain, removed/reinstalled oil sump, new VANOS solenoid and maintenance tasks (oil filter, new aux belt. In the end I took the risk and made do on tightening the hub bolt with all locking devices in place, somebody holding pressure on ex cam shaft with spanner and somebody in the car in 5th gear with brakes applied. May have been lucky but nothing broke and it was surprisingly easy to get 180deg 2nd stage. It was a tense moment turning it on for the first time.. started ok with a low oil pressure warning at first then settled down. It did however stall after a couple minutes then didn't start. Tried again and back up and running seems stable. Any idea why may have stall on the first run? Thank you so much for your videos that were invaluable
Great series of recordings, huge help. just one question, were you able to torque the crankshaft bolt just using the crank locking pin to stop it rotating? I'm nervous it will snap the pin
Hello Mini Adventure. I have an issue. I did the job described in the video. However, after I finished and out some oil to lubricate the chain, I noticed that crankshaft seal is leaking (yes, no pressure, just few turns by pulley hub). I first thought that it's a seal that I installed badly, but then I realized that crankshaft pulley hub is NOT CENTERED in the spot for pulley. It play around 1 or 2 mm. Well, I am not sure what centers the pulley, the only thing on my mind is that I didn't have special tool to tighten the crankshaft center bolt, so all force vent to the flywheel lock. Any idea what could go wrong? Thanks in advance.
Not exactly sure what you are asking.....My hub went right in, used the flywheel lock to hold the crank in place and torqued it down. Another subscriber says the spec has changed to 37lb/ft then an additional 180 degrees, instead of 110 degrees. I haven't verified that myself though.
Hey there, did the inlet camshaft dephaser spprocket need to be reset (pressurize with compressed air through oil inlet hole in the unit) before reinstall? Apparently vvt dephasers need to be reset to their "resting position" before they're installed back onto the camshaft. I've got dual dephasers on a 1.6vti peugeot engine (same as this mini) and was wondering if this needs to be done before reinstall??
+Mini Adventure I have a Haynes Repair manual and there's something written in there about putting the dephaser back into resting position. Anyway I'll ivestigate it further. Thanks SO MUCH for posting your video as I'm going to save myself a lot of money doing it myself. I'm also quite an avid DIY mechanic but will be my first time doing a euro car. By the way, how did your mini run after this repair??..all good? Cheers from Australia!
No, there are not any timing marks. Once you lock the flywheel, the Pistons are in the correct position. Once you install the camshaft locking bar, everything is in place.
Hi, By far the best explainatory video on that subject. A big thank you for that, the detail level is awesome One question (I'm french and I probably didn't catch it) : did you use the flywheel lock pin to hold the crankshalf while torking the extra 100° ? thanks again
did you look at the other 2 videos? I'm sure it's in there. there is a hole in the bellhousing by the oil pan. the holding tool slides in that hole and engages the flywheel when the crankshaft is in the proper position. that is why I used the pieces of wire in the cylinder bores to help find the proper position.
WELL, you might want to clarify the bad information about this. There is a big difference between 180 deg and 100 deg, some of us doing this the first time want to get it right. Unfortunately my Bentley manual also had it wrong at only 100 deg ! I found out after 2 days driving and after discovering later the 2011 service bulletin I ended up tearing everything down to tighten the extra 70deg.
Quick question for both of you. How in the world are you breaking this bolt loose and then reinstalling the new bolt and also getting it that tight? How are you keeping the crank from rotating? Seems like an impossible task? I'm just looking for a tip or trick before I start doing this job on my 2008 Clubman
Thanks for the great video. Let me ask you a question: A have a 2007 MINI Cooper R56 N12 Engine(Dual VANOS). After changing the timing chain I keep getting the following codes P0014 & P0015. Did you have any codes back like that?
yes, I installed the upper guide rail. ended up having to put heli-coils in the mounting holes where the guide bolts on. very easy to strip so be careful.
well, I was hoping that changing the timing chain would fix it, but ended up having to remove the head since all of the exhaust valves were bent. Replaced all the valves and had the head surfaced and put it back together. Runs like a champ now. Did a video on that too.
Thats a bummer! I'm going to look @ one w/54k on it . owner says he changed the oil every 3k but he said it sounds like it needs crank bearings. Hoping its just the timing chain guides!!!!
+Joe Gigliotti when it is cold it will have a " rattle" that almost sounds like lifters ticking. make sure you get all of his oil change records. Mini has a class action settlement on the timing chain and they will want to see those records before they will replace it under the settlement. I have heard of people having the timing chain replaced as low as 30k. the tensioner is the big problem.
+Joe Gigliotti a little when it was cold. there are a few videos on here of how it will sound. I think mine jumped time because a piece of the guide fell down in between the crank gear and chain. if it is rattling, I would check it. I plan to do yearly checks on mine now. there is a tool you can use to measure the how far the chain has stretched. there is an alternate tensioner that is longer to take up the extra slack, but that is just a patch in my opinion. best to just change it all.
Its not top dead center, its just where this engine was designed to be put in time. Since there are no marks on the sprockets, you can time it anywhere. They want the pistons halfway down to aleviate damage to the valves during the process.
Harry Cooper. After I got it all back together, it wouldn't run because all 8 exhaust valves were bent. That led me to do the series on cylinder head repair.
I have a 2007 mini cooper s noticed the chain on the oil pump Is very loose has a lot of play is it suppose to be like that if anybody knows can you help with comments thank you
I found it difficult to find anyone who would work on my wife's MINI. My regular mechanic said" only if I have to" I did find a couple of shops that specialize in German cars that were willing. So far I haven't had to take it there.
Just a heads up , bought all new bolts ,must have got some cheap China shit bolts , broke the two guide bolts off in the block what a nightmare , make sure you get genuine parts .. !!
NICE VIDEOS I HAVE TO MAKE A JOB LIKE THIS ON MY GARAGE ..IN A CLIENT CAR...HEY! DO YOU KNOW THAT ENGINE IS PSA GROUP?? FRENCH NOT GERMAN..TECH...ITS VTI ENGINE BASE ..PSA GROUP..IT MEANS PEUGEOT & CITROEN..THEY USE IN SOMO MODELS FROM 2007 UNTIL 2011..BUT THE VALVETRONIC SYSTEM ON MINI ONE 1.4 ..ITS BMW TECH AS VANOS...WELCOME TO THE EUROPEAN UNION....:D..GREETINGS FROM SPAIN..AND KEEP ON WITH YOUR VIDEOS ..
if you are going to start video talking about safety at least practice some,,,,, rings on and watch on in video which are big no no's while working on cars
thanks for pointing that out. I usually take my watch off. I can't get my ring off so I sometimes wrap it with electrical tape. But you are right, I should have done that for the videos.
Missed an important step :-) if your reusing the cam dephaser sprocket then set it back into its neutral position (0 deg) rotate engine 2 turns (before removing cam chain without locks installed) then use a hex spanner to gently torque back the inlet camshaft in the opposite direction in order to locate the locking pin within the dephaser wheel.. I always do this when replacing the dephaser sprockets too as a matter of course you can't be too careful with these grenades :-) someone should remind BMW that keyways are still a thing and much easier....
NICE VIDEOS I HAVE TO MAKE A JOB LIKE THIS ON MY GARAGE ..IN A CLIENT CAR...HEY! DO YOU KNOW THAT ENGINE IS PSA GROUP?? FRENCH NOT GERMAN..TECH...ITS VTI ENGINE BASE ..PSA GROUP..IT MEANS PEUGEOT & CITROEN..THEY USE IN SOMO MODELS FROM 2007 UNTIL 2011..BUT THE VALVETRONIC SYSTEM ON MINI ONE 1.4 ..ITS BMW TECH AS VANOS...WELCOME TO THE EUROPEAN UNION....:D..GREETINGS FROM SPAIN..AND KEEP ON WITH YOUR VIDEOS ..
This is the Peugeot / PSA N14 engine. The N14 is used in 2007-2009 MINI Cooper S. N12 in the base Cooper. N18 is used in the 2010-2013 Cooper S. The N14 is most susceptible to this chain tensioner issue (more due to chain stretch and tensioner being too short)
Hi,
Just wanted to say a little bit about safety............... oops sorry, watched your videos so much I got carried away there😉
Seriously though thanks a million for being so patient and detailed in your description of how to remove/reinstall cylinder head and setup new timing chain etc. It should make you proud that lots of amateurs are using your guidance to step them through the process.
My wife's mini suffered the identical fate of yours, jumped timing chain, death rattle then 8 bent valves, took it to a couple garages and just about fainted at the estimates to repair it. I dabble mechanically, put engines into small tractors etc but never taken on anything like this.
I watched your videos repeatedly with my 23 yr old son and eventually got the courage to take it on. After day one my garage had more bits in it than could have imagined, oh shit I thought, I hope we remember where they!
We watched a few other videos and decided to Lapp new exhaust valves ourselves as well to try and save some money, as you say "if they weren't so nice to drive, you wouldn't bother" we also found the subframe to be rotten so decided to go ahead and source a 2nd hand one tidy it up fit new wishbone bushes etc and put it all back together hoping the engine work was going to be worth it.
Over the Christmas holidays we worked some long days but delighted to say it looks like it has paid off, a couple of days ago at around 10.30 at night we got to the point ready to try the engine. We're Scottish, so naturally we agreed, if it started we would go back to the house and have a wee dram (whisky of course!) and if it exploded, then we would still go up to the house and have a wee dram!!
Thankfully it was a celebratory dram, it started first turn! Absolutely delighted, a great father/son experience together, two days in and it is running better than it ever did.
We saved a bit of money in the process, it wasn't about that though, we learned so much and that's all thanks to people like you.
So thank you very much and keep up your good work, if your ever over in Scotland I'd love to buy you a whisky to say thanks in person.😀
Thanks for the kind words, Murray! Glad the videos gave you the confidence to take on this project.
I've always wanted to go to Scotland. My ancestry going back to the 1400's was from the county of Cork. If I ever make it over, I'll look you up.
Hey man, you do a great job and you are really careful and you really understand what you do. Thank you for your videos! Little hint from my side to ease your work: to remove the crankshaft seal (above video around minute 4+), there is a much easier way: just hit the top of the seal with a 5 millimeter drift and it comes out on the bottom side just like this. Nice greets from Germany!
With this video, I feel like getting myself a fun mini copper...👏🇬🇧
Thank you for making this video .Just finished replacing my timing chain on my 2009 Mini cooper s and this video was awesome .
A very informative video, well done for having a go at such a complex task!
This video series help me fix my 2009 mini cooper. It was incredibly helpful.
Joshua Happel I'm glad it helped!
@@miniadventure8714
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Well done. Very thorough and precise.
Great videos. I plan on buying one and after watching these videos I know I'll be able to repair it myself if it happens.
Thank-you so so much for sharing such a valuable video.
Rather than drilling and installing screws, I use a long prybar for the seal, against the frame rail and gently force it out from the top inside edge of the seal. Great video though for the Mini specific info especially.
Why you didnt install the upper chain guide before tighten down camshafts?
What about the upper chain guide? Wouldn't you want that on before adjusting the intake cam?
Not trying to critique, thank you for all this information!
I've seen conflicting videos about the crank shaft bolt / sprocket being left loose when installing the chain and tensioner etc fully and only when everything is in place then it is torqued up. But I've noted you torqued crank bolt up before fitting the tensioner. I thought the sprocket was left loose so that all the play in the chain is taken out? Just wondering what to do now lol which way is best? Great set of tutorials though really helpful Thanks 👍
I'm sure you can do it either way, as the crank is held in the correct position with the positioning pin.
Did u have the tensioner in while u were locking the cams up?
Small tip #1: To remove the spark plugs, if you don't have or want to buy the BMW spark plug socket, you can use a long15 mm six-point socket. It does not have the rubber bushing to hold the plug, but I used a medium claw grabber tool to pick the plugs out of their shafts and to lower the plugs back down and hand-tighten before using the 15 mm again. The torque on the plugs is low, so you're not going to strip them with the 15mm. The claw grabber is a must-have tool for anyone who ever drops nuts and bolts in an engine compartment, so it’s worth having. Get one with a light.
Small tip #2: There are cheaper camshaft locking tools on ebay. I bought one new for about $55. My locking kit came without the vital instructions, but there's a youtube video on that.
Small tip #3: I did a bit of reading on this. A DIYer said the Feltpro seal is better than the Corteco brand seal and better than the Mini original, at half the price. Also, the Mini-specific seal replacement tool which Pelican Parts says you MUST have costs “only” $120. The one in the video looks a lot less expensive. However, a DIYer said you could buy a female coupling for 2" PVC pipe, and use a block of wood over it to tap the seal in. The coupling cost $1.59.
Bill Donovan. Great tips! My plugs were 12pt, 14mm. Maybe there is a replacement plug that uses the 15 mm socket, but it wouldn't work on mine. I saw the cheaper cam tools on eBay too. I opted for what seemed like better quality. My only regret is my set didn't have the pre-tensioner tool in it. I had to buy that separate.
I'm puzzled that the 15mm worked on my 12-point 14mm plugs but not on yours. Not questioning you, just puzzled.
Bill Donovan I just use it's ignition coil once the spark plug is free. Push the ignition coil back on and pull out. No extras cost effective
Hi Paul, I just completed my chain replacement today. However the engine won’t start. It turns, but doesn’t start up. I checked the timing again and it looks right. Both cam stamping facing up when the locking tool is in place. My valves are fine since I changed the chain when engine is still working. I was wondering if you can give some clue why it won’t start? I suspect the vanos is not in the rest position. Everything else seem right. Thanks in advance.
most likely the ground wire on the plug harness. If you forget to screw this back on the valve cover bolt it will not start
Great videos- quick question to be clear - when breaking the crank bolt loose, (and when you torqued the new bolt) you just used the flywheel locking pin to hold the crank in place ?
Aug 23 2020 - im watching this video. Will 15 ft pounds of torque hold the sprockets in place as you rotate the engine?
Same question here. I am in the process of replacing the timing chain on my '07 S and some videos suggest 20 ft lbs while others sat 15 ft lbs. Is there a correct number? Thanks for the help.
I think it should.
Thanks Paul! It's not too bad if you take your time and have the right tools.
Thank you i just got one and i have not drove it 500 miles and i heard the sound on a cold start the car has 76,000 and has never been done i got every thing i needed from you video's thank you very much i could have done this but its going to make the job so much more simple thank again. FYI when you buy one i have put 1,000 in it now had to have my axles rebuild and shipped off timing and tool's tires and next motor mounts and hubs.
i am on my wifes you tube i love the car its runs like a top
Love the videos! I can't find a video that shows you completing the head replacement and cranking up the car. It was a success I'm sure, but I would love to see the fruits of your labor. Thanks again. I'm having a new head put on my R56 this week.
@@precool unfortunately, I lost the car in Hurricane Harvey. It ran like a top and we sure miss it!
@@robsgarage894 I hope everyone was safe, family, pets etc. I have a feeling you might just get another Mini someday. Take care. I’ll let you know when I’m back on the road! 🏁
doing this job at the moment and needed to know if the gears have a certain placement when putting the chain on
eatonpeaches no, they do not. I thought that was odd myself, being used to us cars.
eatonpeaches just enough sure to use the pre-tensioner that comes with the timing kit. mine didn't come with one and I had to adjust it a few times to get it right. the pre-tensioner goes in the tensioner hole in the head and takes the slack out of the chain before you tighten the sprocket bolts.
Finished & took it around the block, got a cam shaft position code, now the engine won't even turn, any reason why?
Awesome man just awesome and thank you for posting this
glad I could help frank!
You are the man! Much appreciated!
Doing this job this weekend
Hey! Thank you so much for the video tutorial!
Here at 14:00 you put on a "skim coat" on the crankshaft seal.... A skim coat of "what?" Oil?
Yes, oil on the shafy side. On the side going into the front cover, a skim coat of permatex ultra black silicone gasket maker.
Ten Months Later...Partial Do-Over?
I am hearing the rattle again. Not very bad. I took the valve cover gasket off and inspected. The top rail is slightly bent and not aligned perfectly with the chain. No cracks, no missing plastic, but definitely not perfectly aligned at the end where the chain comes up from.
Very likely, the chain is hitting it. I suspect that the aftermarket repair kit included a weak chain tensioner. I noticed back when I did the repair that it had more spring pressure than the old one, but not a huge amount more.
So I am going to buy a Mini second-generation chain tensioner ($64 at Pelican, $69 ECS and Amazon, $79 Minimania) and a new top rail, put them in, and hope for the best.
If I have correctly diagnosed the cause, then maybe one should not buy an aftermarket chain tensioner. Mini has changed the design about five times, and the aftermarket may not have the latest one.
Awesome videos. I am getting ready to do this on my 2007 Mini. Do you still have the crankshaft (timing chain) alignment tool? If so, I would be interested in renting it or purchasing it. Thanks again.
Great video. Very informative.
There were maybe 4 variations made on the chain tensioner.
Is the replacement with the latest tensioner made by simply replacing the old with the latest? Or can the chain skip time when removing the old tensioner?
Hi, thanks for the video. Does it matter how you align the vanos sprocket on the camshaft?
ECEguru , I was wondering the same thing. Mine wot start after install everything.
HI,great videoes,thanks!!!Do not have a new camshaft bolt if there is a problem?
All camshaft sprocket bolts must be replaced because they are torque-to-yield bolts. They cannot be re-used. You can get them on eBay. Thats where I got most of my parts.
Hi...couple of quick questions if you have time to reply would be greatly appreciated... regarding the vanous hub on the intake camshaft,I know there is no keyway,but is there a certain way it has to be fitted to the camshaft regarding oil feeds to the hub or is it just simply placed on..?and also because the valve timing was out,did it cause any internal damage to the engine... thanks
Jason, there is no specific way the VANOS sprocket goes on. Once you get both sprockets on, use chain tension adjustment tool placed in the tensioner hole in the back of the engine to take the slack out of the chain before you tighten the sprocket bolts. On mine, it jumped time and bent all 8 exhaust valves. Had to have the head rebuilt. New intake exhaust valves, valve job and head milled.
@@miniadventure8714 thanks very much for the reply..I've got a Peugeot rcz with the same engine in it that has done exactly the same thing as yours..I think to follow your procedure and install the new chain kit..if it sounds the same as yours did upon cranking,I know it's going to be along and expensive road ahead for the owner..cheers Jason
Excellent video set!
Thanks for the videos.. helping me a lot. When you torqued down the crank hub bolt how did you secure it from spinning? Did you use the 5th gear/brake technique or leave the locking pin/tools in place or use a crank holding tool?
Will Bradley. I used the crank holding tool.
Mini Adventure thanks. I just finished my work today - timing chain, removed/reinstalled oil sump, new VANOS solenoid and maintenance tasks (oil filter, new aux belt. In the end I took the risk and made do on tightening the hub bolt with all locking devices in place, somebody holding pressure on ex cam shaft with spanner and somebody in the car in 5th gear with brakes applied. May have been lucky but nothing broke and it was surprisingly easy to get 180deg 2nd stage. It was a tense moment turning it on for the first time.. started ok with a low oil pressure warning at first then settled down. It did however stall after a couple minutes then didn't start. Tried again and back up and running seems stable. Any idea why may have stall on the first run?
Thank you so much for your videos that were invaluable
Great series of recordings, huge help. just one question, were you able to torque the crankshaft bolt just using the crank locking pin to stop it rotating? I'm nervous it will snap the pin
I was nervous about that too. That is what I used to hold mine. Worked fine!
Hello Mini Adventure. I have an issue. I did the job described in the video. However, after I finished and out some oil to lubricate the chain, I noticed that crankshaft seal is leaking (yes, no pressure, just few turns by pulley hub). I first thought that it's a seal that I installed badly, but then I realized that crankshaft pulley hub is NOT CENTERED in the spot for pulley. It play around 1 or 2 mm. Well, I am not sure what centers the pulley, the only thing on my mind is that I didn't have special tool to tighten the crankshaft center bolt, so all force vent to the flywheel lock. Any idea what could go wrong? Thanks in advance.
Not exactly sure what you are asking.....My hub went right in, used the flywheel lock to hold the crank in place and torqued it down. Another subscriber says the spec has changed to 37lb/ft then an additional 180 degrees, instead of 110 degrees. I haven't verified that myself though.
does anyone know anything about holding the cams with a wrench and rotationg crank counterclockwise to lock the vanos units?
Hey there, did the inlet camshaft dephaser spprocket need to be reset (pressurize with compressed air through oil inlet hole in the unit) before reinstall?
Apparently vvt dephasers need to be reset to their "resting position" before they're installed back onto the camshaft.
I've got dual dephasers on a 1.6vti peugeot engine (same as this mini) and was wondering if this needs to be done before reinstall??
mine did not require that. the chiltons manual shows a good picture of what it should look like.
+Mini Adventure
I have a Haynes Repair manual and there's something written in there about putting the dephaser back into resting position.
Anyway I'll ivestigate it further.
Thanks SO MUCH for posting your video as I'm going to save myself a lot of money doing it myself. I'm also quite an avid DIY mechanic but will be my first time doing a euro car.
By the way, how did your mini run after this repair??..all good?
Cheers from Australia!
+appdevcoder linux it ran great! no problems since. have put about 6k miles on it since.
Are there timing marks for the Crank?
No, there are not any timing marks. Once you lock the flywheel, the Pistons are in the correct position. Once you install the camshaft locking bar, everything is in place.
Hi,
By far the best explainatory video on that subject. A big thank you for that, the detail level is awesome
One question (I'm french and I probably didn't catch it) : did you use the flywheel lock pin to hold the crankshalf while torking the extra 100° ?
thanks again
Yes, I used the flywheel lock to hold the crank while I tightened it.
Salut mdr je me lance dans ma distri sur thp jsuis français aussi lol
@@nocopyrightsaudio6322 je te souhaite bon courage dans l'aventure !
Did it start good after the work you did to it?
It ran very well until Hurricane Harvey
what code does it show? does the engine turn over, but not start?
intake camshaft sensor implause.i change ecu,camshaft sensor.still same.car no power.when start car idiling not stable
theirs not show how to locate the crank shaft locking tool please explain that thank you.
did you look at the other 2 videos? I'm sure it's in there. there is a hole in the bellhousing by the oil pan. the holding tool slides in that hole and engages the flywheel when the crankshaft is in the proper position. that is why I used the pieces of wire in the cylinder bores to help find the proper position.
thank you very much for the instruction
The crankshaft stage 2 has been updated to 180 degrees of rotation, also before all stage 1 torques install the tensioner.
Boosted_ Dizzle Thanks for the update! it's always good to share this info! thankfully I haven't had any issues so far.
thank you for that i was going to ask
WELL, you might want to clarify the bad information about this. There is a big difference between 180 deg and 100 deg, some of us doing this the first time want to get it right. Unfortunately my Bentley manual also had it wrong at only 100 deg ! I found out after 2 days driving and after discovering later the 2011 service bulletin I ended up tearing everything down to tighten the extra 70deg.
Quick question for both of you. How in the world are you breaking this bolt loose and then reinstalling the new bolt and also getting it that tight? How are you keeping the crank from rotating? Seems like an impossible task?
I'm just looking for a tip or trick before I start doing this job on my 2008 Clubman
Thanks for the great video. Let me ask you a question: A have a 2007 MINI Cooper R56 N12 Engine(Dual VANOS). After changing the timing chain I keep getting the following codes P0014 & P0015. Did you have any codes back like that?
No, I didnt. Mine only had the VANOS on the intake side.
I had these codes on my 07 bmw x3 all i did is change the oil and the codes cleared
You have not installed the upper guide rail again?
yes, I installed the upper guide rail. ended up having to put heli-coils in the mounting holes where the guide bolts on. very easy to strip so be careful.
so did you end up with any bent valves or other damage after the chain went bad?
Bella Luna yes, all 8 exhaust valves were bent. ended up replacing all valves, milling and valve job.
dam, sorry to hear that. Guess I should definitely go ahead and replace my chain and guides before this happens. Thank you for the reply. :)
Great videos! So it ran ok? You said in the first video it stopped running. Just curious if the pistons kissed the valves?
well, I was hoping that changing the timing chain would fix it, but ended up having to remove the head since all of the exhaust valves were bent. Replaced all the valves and had the head surfaced and put it back together. Runs like a champ now. Did a video on that too.
Thats a bummer! I'm going to look @ one w/54k on it . owner says he changed the oil every 3k but he said it sounds like it needs crank bearings. Hoping its just the timing chain guides!!!!
+Joe Gigliotti
when it is cold it will have a " rattle" that almost sounds like lifters ticking. make sure you get all of his oil change records. Mini has a class action settlement on the timing chain and they will want to see those records before they will replace it under the settlement. I have heard of people having the timing chain replaced as low as 30k. the tensioner is the big problem.
Did you notice if yours was noisy before it stopped running?
+Joe Gigliotti
a little when it was cold. there are a few videos on here of how it will sound. I think mine jumped time because a piece of the guide fell down in between the crank gear and chain. if it is rattling, I would check it. I plan to do yearly checks on mine now. there is a tool you can use to measure the how far the chain has stretched. there is an alternate tensioner that is longer to take up the extra slack, but that is just a patch in my opinion. best to just change it all.
it's so crazy that you set all pistons half way down for TDC on the motor Wow
Its not top dead center, its just where this engine was designed to be put in time. Since there are no marks on the sprockets, you can time it anywhere. They want the pistons halfway down to aleviate damage to the valves during the process.
@@bdavem europe motor like do that
Great videos. I've watched all 3... with my full attention but where is video 4? What happens next.? Did it start?how did it sound?
Harry Cooper. After I got it all back together, it wouldn't run because all 8 exhaust valves were bent. That led me to do the series on cylinder head repair.
Di you bend the valve when you set up the timing
I have a 2007 mini cooper s noticed the chain on the oil pump Is very loose has a lot of play is it suppose to be like that if anybody knows can you help with comments thank you
824cement It is normal for that chain to be loose, it does not have a tensioner for it.
Crank and cam sprockets rotate. Yet the cams are not moving. I double checked the torque. Crank pin is removed. Sprocket bolts are tight.
Not sure how that is possible.... If everything is torqued correctly, the cams should turn.
Please do you have anyone who you can recommend to fix my 2009 Mini Cooper because It seem i have the same problem, it will crank but wont start.
I found it difficult to find anyone who would work on my wife's MINI. My regular mechanic said" only if I have to"
I did find a couple of shops that specialize in German cars that were willing. So far I haven't had to take it there.
Thank you 👍
Just a heads up , bought all new bolts ,must have got some cheap China shit bolts , broke the two guide bolts off in the block what a nightmare , make sure you get genuine parts .. !!
NICE VIDEOS I HAVE TO MAKE A JOB LIKE THIS ON MY GARAGE ..IN A CLIENT CAR...HEY! DO YOU KNOW THAT ENGINE IS PSA GROUP?? FRENCH NOT GERMAN..TECH...ITS VTI ENGINE BASE ..PSA GROUP..IT MEANS PEUGEOT & CITROEN..THEY USE IN SOMO MODELS FROM 2007 UNTIL 2011..BUT THE VALVETRONIC SYSTEM ON MINI ONE 1.4 ..ITS BMW TECH AS VANOS...WELCOME TO THE EUROPEAN UNION....:D..GREETINGS FROM SPAIN..AND KEEP ON WITH YOUR VIDEOS ..
Educational video for sure. I've learned to not buy one haha.
looks so cheap! no key way on crank sprocket! Why!?
🐻👍
con un martillo de carpintero el tipo quiere poner un reten de aceite hola q bruto.
75k in miles and already gotta replace and setup timing tho.smh.Mine is at 120k
if you are going to start video talking about safety at least practice some,,,,, rings on and watch on in video which are big no no's while working on cars
thanks for pointing that out. I usually take my watch off. I can't get my ring off so I sometimes wrap it with electrical tape. But you are right, I should have done that for the videos.
Missed an important step :-) if your reusing the cam dephaser sprocket then set it back into its neutral position (0 deg) rotate engine 2 turns (before removing cam chain without locks installed) then use a hex spanner to gently torque back the inlet camshaft in the opposite direction in order to locate the locking pin within the dephaser wheel.. I always do this when replacing the dephaser sprockets too as a matter of course you can't be too careful with these grenades :-) someone should remind BMW that keyways are still a thing and much easier....
NICE VIDEOS I HAVE TO MAKE A JOB LIKE THIS ON MY GARAGE ..IN A CLIENT CAR...HEY! DO YOU KNOW THAT ENGINE IS PSA GROUP?? FRENCH NOT GERMAN..TECH...ITS VTI ENGINE BASE ..PSA GROUP..IT MEANS PEUGEOT & CITROEN..THEY USE IN SOMO MODELS FROM 2007 UNTIL 2011..BUT THE VALVETRONIC SYSTEM ON MINI ONE 1.4 ..ITS BMW TECH AS VANOS...WELCOME TO THE EUROPEAN UNION....:D..GREETINGS FROM SPAIN..AND KEEP ON WITH YOUR VIDEOS ..
This is the Peugeot / PSA N14 engine. The N14 is used in 2007-2009 MINI Cooper S. N12 in the base Cooper. N18 is used in the 2010-2013 Cooper S. The N14 is most susceptible to this chain tensioner issue (more due to chain stretch and tensioner being too short)