If you'd told me before I started knitting that I'd watch 52 minutes of a lady wrapping yarn around a tool and counting it while fascinated and actually gasping at times, I wouldn't have believed you, but here we are. Great video!
Thank you so much. I knew this video would be a long one and there were times when it crossed my mind whether it would be interesting enough for more than just me so you saying this really makes my day. 🙏❤️
As a weaver, I have done wraps per inch with a ruler for many, many years. The key is to wrap over a larger span (two inches or more) and then just count a one inch section. That eliminates the worry about the edges sliding around, as you won't be counting those. To be even more precise, wrap a few inches, count just a two inch section and divide by two.
Holy crap if this was 1987 and I needed a science fair project, I would measure all my yarns, chart them out with the different fiber contents, make swatches to illustrate how they differ, and walk away with first place. This is so cool!
So informative, so clear, and not at all a rehash of what I've seen before! Went for a long walk with the dog while listening, thinking if it sounded boring I would be able to weed it out without wasting time being idle, and listened to the WHOLE thing. Then I went home and had breakfast and watched it! Apparently I'm a yarn nerd and didn't know it. 😆 This was great! 👍👍
Grist is going to give you an accurate depiction of yarn density. Some commercial yarns are “woolen” spun and others are closer ton”worsted” spun (not worsted weight). Woolen are going to be lighter and loftier and less dense - e.g. have a smaller grist calculation. And this ignores the chainette type yarns where there’s a hollow core or some sort of fiber blown into the core. WPI is a good measure for sure, but you can theoretically have two yarns with the same WPI but a completely different grist or yarn density that will impact your final handmade item.
as a non-native English speaker, your videos are always delightful to watch. thanks for clear pronunciation! I didn't think that things about WPI are interesting🥰
This was an interesting video to watch. I do want to note, that I am *pretty* positive that the wpi for yarns held together is a ravelry calculation - and not provided my the designer, so the Sunday sweater may or may not be 7 wpi with the yarns PK used. Specifically, I think for yarns held together- designers choose what the individual yarns are and when what that "equals". So, I don't think they choose the WPI but that they think? I say this because sometimes Lace +DK = DK and for some designs Lace+DK = Worsted. So I believe they choose the components and what they equal, bur I wonder if designers actually consider the WPI on the "equals" portion or if it's a guess? I think that information from designers could be extremely helpful
Completely agree. Taylor may be able to answer if the wpi is decided by the designer as her Little Black Tee shows DK with 11 wpi on Ravelry. So maybe she decided it or it is auto filled by Ravelry
As a designer who uploads patterns to Ravelry, I’ve never input WPI but my patterns do show WPI. This is not a substitute for swatching. That WPI on Ravelry isn’t even necessarily factoring in the exact yarn being used by the designer, just the yarn weight they’ve chosen. WPI is a great way to figure out what your unlabeled yarn is, but isn’t necessarily a good way to figure out what yarn to use for a specific project.
I just attended the New England Fiber Fest and came across the WPI which was a new term for me. Lo and behold, I came home and this wonderful video was in my feed. I just ordered the tool. My friend wants to knit a skirt and use a chunky weight yarn that she has in her stash. This information will be invaluable. Thank you so much Taylor. I love being a knitting nerd. ❤
Oh My Gosh! This is so much help! I often use yarn other than what is listed in the pattern. I am so grateful for your 'deep dive' to have a better way to measure my planned yarn as compared to pattern. I always learn so much from your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I just wanted to hop in and say that the wpi given on a Ravelry page is standardized and not specifically set by the pattern designer for that yarn pairing!! You will see a table pop up when you click on the question mark next to it, that shows Ravelry's conversion table from yarn weight name to wpi and knit gauge and yarnstandards naming! So, it does not mean that the pattern designer actually achieved exactly 11wpi with their yarn pairing! Their pairing probably just falls within the DK weight range, which Ravelry equates with 11wpi.
This is definitely illuminating! Keep up the deep dives into yarn sub’ing please. I think WPI helps explain why row guage is often a challenge while stitch gauge is more easily achieved.
Once again you hit the nail on the head. You’ve deduced and synthesized what I’ve always suspected when it comes to pairing yarns versus a single yarn of the same weight. Loved the video this week!
Love this! Last year, I needed to use several different types of yarn to get my color scheme, but needed all sport weight so the gauges of the patterns would work together. I used WPI to find three different yarn types so I could have all 12 colors and patterns. WPI is a great tool to have in the box.
This is a great explanatory video. I went ahead and bought a gague set. Very useful. I couldn't get that particular one you used, but instead a set of 3. Despite knitting a lot I wouldn't have been aware of wraps per inch. Thank you. 👍
One of my favorite things about your channel is how professionally shot your videos are! I love that the audio is in stereo, the picture is clear, you speak intentionally and with detail, and your background is a place I want to be :) What microphone do you use, out of curiosity? It always sounds good, in headphones or just playing out of my phone!
This is great. I buy some hand spun yarns every year from local to me artists at my favorite fall event and while most of the time its labeled with grams or ounces or yardage and i measure myself too, this is something i should do to help me really hone in on the best project for each special yarn. Someone did tell me once that measuring wraps per inch would be most accurate when wrapped around a round object vs a flat ruler. And yes as others noted, we all just sat here listening to this lady for an hour talking about measuring an inch lol. Love it
This is a great demo. I think this also emphasizes the importance of swatching to get the fabric you want. If you want your sweater to look exactly like what is pictured use the exact same yarn weight, fiber, and vendor then swatch to get gauge. If you want to play around with it, it can be really fun to select your yarns based off the fabric qualities you desire.
Love this kind of video. I use my WPI tool quite often because I find that a pattern may say one yarn weight, but have it based on the gauge that was gotten or the ball band info, not the actual WPI. The other thing that is interesting is that some companies will give a specific gauge based on yards/meters per 100 grams, which may actually suggest a different gauge than the WPI because of the type of yarn construction, or the yarn fiber. For example, a merino/cotton blend will have less yards per 100g of straight up wool because there are less yards in a gram of cotton. It's all just very interesting. When I started spinning my own yarn and get different grist depending on how the same fiber was spun, and different WPI, is when I realized that swatching was super important, and that knitting a square in stitch pattern and then figuring out how much yardage that used, then calculating the square inches in a garment, would also help me relax when it comes to yarn chicken. I could pretty confidently figure out how much yardage in whatever yarn I was using, for whatever project. Thanks again & have a great day!
Thank you SO MUCH for this video!! I knew of wpi, but did not realize its usefulness before. I started knitting two years ago but am intimidated by knitting sweaters because I am afraid of how off my gauge will be. I would rather swap out yarns than track down what is used in the pattern, and was always concerned by the allowed variation in a yarn weight category, and did not want to spend hours knitting gauge swatches trying to get gauge right. Also, how adding a strand of mohair completely increased the weight of the overall fabric when it's so thin completely baffled me. Seeing you test and compare a single strand and two strands to get a similar weight was so helpful!! I will absolutely use wpi as a first step before knitting a gauge swatch when I get adventurous enough to knit a sweater!!
Very interesting! I never thought about checking what wraps per inch the yarn I’m planning on substituting is. That’s definitely very helpful. Thank you!
I was wondering how one can tell how long your yarn should be when casting on a product. I have having a long tail when done with the car on. Loved this episode!
My pleasure! And there are always so many knowledgeable (more knowledgeable than me) folks leaving little bits of their wisdom down here and I love that!
So interesting! The Love Note sweater is listed as fingering + lace = DK on Ravelry. I swatched with a DK and the fabric was way too open for my liking. It seemed I’d have to go down several needle sizes to get a fabric I’d like, so I abandoned the project. This video helps explain what happened! My DK yarn probably had more WPI than the yarn combination in the pattern.
I feel this is super informative and makes me think that maybe pattern designers should also consider this as a standard. Especially because I think the wpi on ravelry is auto generated. Definitely a food for thought and how we as knitters can continue to evolve.
This was super helpful and explained a LOT! Next question or video idea….how to determine when purchasing yarn (especially when we have to purchase online) how do we ensure the yarn we buy will work. Many sites do t show a WPI. (Or if there is an obvious answer that I may not be getting let me know!!!!😬😬)
This was fascinating. What a great way to take some of the guesswork out of swatching when substituting yarns. Also, as I am currently knitting the Sunday sweater in a bulky weight yarn, made a lot of sense why I had to size down my needles to get gauge.
That solves the mystery I've been wondering about for years. So thank you very much! I appreciate your efforts and it's nice to see you having so much fun with these types of videos!🧶
I’m glad this is helpful! Thank you for watching. I do really love these sort of exploratory videos. I’m not one to do tutorials, but I’ll do trial and error demo videos like this all day. ☺️☺️
Thank you for doing this Tayler. I had the same basic questions about wraps per inch that you did when you first started researching it. It is much clearer to me now.😊
Thank you for testing different methods for measuring the WPI. I tried with a ruler and a pencil and it worked not fine. I really thought I were to dumb to get it right. I think I try to make my own tool tomorrow. Have a nice weekend.
I’m glad it has because once you realize that swatching is so much more than just trying to match up the gauge of some designer (in fact, it shouldn’t be that at all-watch next week’s video), you realize it’s not only a lot more informative, but that you actually look forward to making it the first step in your process.
Thanks for the awesome tips. As a knitting newbie I didn’t know what wpi on ravelry meant, and this was like a lightbulb moment and now I feel a little silly for not figuring it out.
Such a great video! I do have mystery yarns in my stash so I’m excited to pick up one of these tools. My LYS has a tool that you lay the yarn in and it tells you what weight it is (similar to the back of this tool), but they’ve been out of stock for a while!
Thanks for this video! I don't knit with animal fibers so I'm having a really hard time finding comparable yarn for the garments I want to make. I only started my first knitted sweater about 3 months ago, but I'm having a hard time making gauge. My first sweater is turning out to be quite oversized which is ok but I want to make more fitted garments.
That is so interesting. I also noticed that the number of plies makes a difference. Your Super Bulky that measured out on the light side was only two plies and probably squishes or flattens out more than a 3 ply would. I’m super impressed with that tool. Could you please tell me what those interesting cut out swirls are for on the bottom. They look like they are not random and must do something.
"Well if I'm putting it simply, and that's where I'm putting it..." LOL, love that. This is timely, as I just experienced this problem! I have a pattern that uses two yarns and says together you get an aran weight. I tried an "aran" weight and then a "worsted" weight yarn to get gauge and it did not work, even with much smaller needles. I tried a DK weight yarn and got gauge, no problem. I suspect that it has something to do with the WPI range. The pattern is assuming that a DK and a lace weight yarn equal aran, but in fact, it just equals a DK with one or two less WPI. I also wonder if Ravelry just does some kind of internal calculation to get their WPI estimate, or if the two yarns really do equal 7 WPI on that PetiteKnit sweater. In the end, I think it really does come down to gauge.
as a spinner WPI is invaluable. Spinner tools have a WPI gage built in similar to that "combo gage" tool you have. All my yarn I make is mystery yarn until I do the steps you outline here.
This is so freakin USEFUL!! I bought one of those "combo" tools years ago but could never figure out what the little "gaps" in the tool were for. This is going to come in handy for those handful of OLD old old patterns I downloaded from Knitty years ago that were designed with long discontinued yarn. I should be able to knit them with a comparable yarn (provided Ravelry has the original design yarn in the database).
2:42 totally agree with the yarn density point. I made a bulky weight sweater from an acrylic aran yarn from stash. Worked perfectly and got gauge. I can't wait to learn more about wpi
Just went through stash and did this a few weeks ago-an old fashioned wooden ruler has enough friction that you don’t have to worry about the yarn slipping (aka better tension)
Thank you for this video. I'm now wondering how to prevent myself from buying a sweater quantity of yarn and then find out it's not the right wpi. 🤔 I'm looking forward to your video about gauge. Maybe the answer is there..
I never knew I needed this tool. Sadly, the one you linked is out of stock. But I will definitely get myself one. I have way too many mystery bundles not to.
Thank you for this video! It was super helpful bc I never knew what they meant by wraps per inch in a pattern. My question is though..do you think you’d need to do this beforehand if you had the recommended yarn for the pattern?
The thickness of the yarn on the back can also be used to make a quick and dirty approximation of your yarn thickness - the laser cut ones have a grove that you can put the yarn into and if it fits, it is ca. that gauge. So cool
For substitution I have found that "heft" of the yarn is fairly reliable; i.e. meterage/yardage per 100g, I have not checked whether this is also a close comparison with WPI
I was going to comment this too. For all the yarns I have purchased, I have a spreadsheet with all their available info, sorted by m/100g. It actually really surprised me how many yarns are listed in one category, but match more closely with the length/weight of a different category. Of course, this is only possible (or at least, easily) with yarns you know this information for. So, I do have a WPI tool to use for yarns I may have been given without the yarn label/info. And of course, useful for two yarns held together. I do like having it, but I still feel there is more room for error in using it because of the inconsistent tension issues between users, or even possibly the same user on a different day. That being said, it’s all really approximations and doing your best to get close, and that’s where a swatch really becomes important for coming out with a finished project that you want to look & drape a certain way.
Haha if you wrap around a pencil or tree trunk it should end up the same since you’re measuring just the width of the yarns lined up next to each other but that was a funny mental image - wrapping a tree with yarn 😆
You can absolutely wrap that yarn around anything, including a tree trunk or a cone! The only thing about an inconsistent circumference, it that your yarn may tend to slip or bunch a little. Otherwise, it's simply the yarn strands lined up next to each other and the circumference doesn't matter.
Suri is heavier because most of the commercial stuff available to everyone (ie Cumulus) is about 328 yards per 50 grams while silk mohair is like 230 yards per 25 grams. So the Suri is much heavier. But if you dye yarn, you can find suri silk blends that are 437 yards per 50 grams (so about 218 yards per 25 grams) and much finer and closer to silk mohair density. Wool2dye4 sells one and one mixed with cashmere that I've been meaning to try.
Thank you. And then there’s grist, which I understand to be length/weight, so meters(or yds) per 100 grams. I use grist for handspun. But nothing beats a big swatch. :/
I was just about to say it would make an interesting follow up video comparing the two techniques to see if they would get you to the same place or if they would differ in the information you're getting from each technique. I've done a bit of grist comparison on suggested yarns for a pattern vs the yarn I have in stash or would like to use for the project. I find myself wondering what's "close enough" for substituting a different yarn? Would it compound if trying to hold multiple strands together? I am curious about all that. 🤔
As someone else mentioned in the comments, I too think that the wpi designation in Ravelry is just specific to Ravelry and not the designer figuring that out. Perhaps Ravelry is only providing whatever the median range for that weight yarn and nothing special? How would we truly know? In my purchased patterns, such as Petite Knit patterns, the wpi is not listed in the pattern. I agree that this would be such invaluable information for the designer to give about the actual yarn that they use. I find substituting yarn in PK patterns difficult because she also doesn’t give actual yardage/meterage and instead makes it only about the yarn she used in weight. WPI is a great way to determine yarn substitution, thanks so much for highlighting this information!!
This is one of my pet peeves, when a pattern designer only tells you how many “balls/skeins” of yarn are required for your size. And then you have to research how many grams/yards/meters per ball and how many in the yarn you want to use.
Taylor, to add to the confusion: My understanding is that bulky/super bulky/chunky yarns are designated differently between the U.S. and the U.K. In fact, I looked up the Craft Yarn Council to see what country(ies) they represent. They are located in Texas, but have several Canadian company members. Also, I think I heard that sport weight is pretty rare with UK yarns?
You do need to watch it with yarns you buy at a big box store like Michaels or JoAnn's. I bought some Lion Brand Respun. It's supposed to be worsted, but it works up as more of a DK/Heavy Sport Weight yarn. But since Worsted is more prevalent in the Big Box Stores, you're going to get more sales, if you mark it as worsted.
Super interesting! That tool is super cool but unfortunately not available in Canada right now. My thought is that since lace is so fine I really wonder if holding it with aran actually = bulky? I think I knit a bit tighter then most and doubt I would be able to achieve that. I know gauge plays a huge role but by the time I used a big enough needle to get that gauge the resulting fabric would be too loose. Does that even make sense 🤷🏻♀️. How can 11 be both DK and worsted? So, if more wraps means denser and less wraps is a lighter density, how does that affect gauge and the ability to substitute yarns?
In the UK we have different weights of wool. We don't have bulky for instance. It can be quite difficult getting a tool that has UK yarn weights on it. Something to bear in mind if you're in the UK.
Just for your viewers' information, there is now a "Grist Calculator" by Becks over at Tiny Fibre Studios which I have found invaluable on occasion. Becks had looked for something like this online and realized there wasn't one, so she made it! Hugs
You can also use a rubber band on each end of yiur pencil or ruler if you forgo the gauge. So the yarn won't slip around as you are wrapping. Not sure if anyone posted it.
If you use the ruler, and take your yarn tail through the hole at the end, and even use a piece of tape, that might validate the ruler as an acceptable tool.
This is very helpful. I'm just wondering if the wpi shown in the pattern is real. Did the pattern designer actually create the wpi, or is the pattern just showing what a standard wpi would be for a bulky?
Any body else singing "A surrey with the fringe on top?" I have a tool around here somewhere, but usually use a little 3 inch ruler. It is easier to control than the longer ones.
As a designer does Ravelry ask you to enter the WPI or is it just giving an average cyc number? I have to wonder if those for the combo yarns are even accurate or average.
Do you can add your own WPI, but it also has a standard wpi option as well. Hard to know which is being used. If you look at the yarn page specifically, that wpi info would be the most accurate.
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
Today we're EXPLORING 'wraps per inch'! Get comfy and let's dive in...and please remember: 03:29...😘
😂😂
If you'd told me before I started knitting that I'd watch 52 minutes of a lady wrapping yarn around a tool and counting it while fascinated and actually gasping at times, I wouldn't have believed you, but here we are. Great video!
Thank you so much. I knew this video would be a long one and there were times when it crossed my mind whether it would be interesting enough for more than just me so you saying this really makes my day. 🙏❤️
This made me chuckle. I felt that same way.
😅LOL this is so super nerdy - I love it (but for years tech knitter was also my favorite blog)
I am in the same boat. Taylor definitely made this concept so clear. ❤😊
As a weaver, I have done wraps per inch with a ruler for many, many years. The key is to wrap over a larger span (two inches or more) and then just count a one inch section. That eliminates the worry about the edges sliding around, as you won't be counting those. To be even more precise, wrap a few inches, count just a two inch section and divide by two.
Exactly! Similar to swatching.
Yep. Definitely a good point.
Great comment
Holy crap if this was 1987 and I needed a science fair project, I would measure all my yarns, chart them out with the different fiber contents, make swatches to illustrate how they differ, and walk away with first place. This is so cool!
Wait...why do we need to go back to 1987? Let's do this now! ☺
@@WOOLNEEDLESHANDS I mean if we're gonna geek out, let's geek out.
You made me laugh, we are such nerds!!! And proud!
@@janicerizzi1935this is a hoot.
So informative, so clear, and not at all a rehash of what I've seen before! Went for a long walk with the dog while listening, thinking if it sounded boring I would be able to weed it out without wasting time being idle, and listened to the WHOLE thing. Then I went home and had breakfast and watched it! Apparently I'm a yarn nerd and didn't know it. 😆 This was great! 👍👍
Thank you SO much Yvette. This really makes my day. 🥰🥰
Grist is going to give you an accurate depiction of yarn density. Some commercial yarns are “woolen” spun and others are closer ton”worsted” spun (not worsted weight). Woolen are going to be lighter and loftier and less dense - e.g. have a smaller grist calculation. And this ignores the chainette type yarns where there’s a hollow core or some sort of fiber blown into the core.
WPI is a good measure for sure, but you can theoretically have two yarns with the same WPI but a completely different grist or yarn density that will impact your final handmade item.
as a non-native English speaker, your videos are always delightful to watch. thanks for clear pronunciation! I didn't think that things about WPI are interesting🥰
+1.
Also thanks for usung the correct terms (as less-->fewer).
It makes me to pay attention to my own word choices
This was an interesting video to watch.
I do want to note, that I am *pretty* positive that the wpi for yarns held together is a ravelry calculation - and not provided my the designer, so the Sunday sweater may or may not be 7 wpi with the yarns PK used.
Specifically, I think for yarns held together- designers choose what the individual yarns are and when what that "equals". So, I don't think they choose the WPI but that they think?
I say this because sometimes Lace +DK = DK and for some designs Lace+DK = Worsted.
So I believe they choose the components and what they equal, bur I wonder if designers actually consider the WPI on the "equals" portion or if it's a guess?
I think that information from designers could be extremely helpful
Completely agree. Taylor may be able to answer if the wpi is decided by the designer as her Little Black Tee shows DK with 11 wpi on Ravelry. So maybe she decided it or it is auto filled by Ravelry
As a designer who uploads patterns to Ravelry, I’ve never input WPI but my patterns do show WPI. This is not a substitute for swatching. That WPI on Ravelry isn’t even necessarily factoring in the exact yarn being used by the designer, just the yarn weight they’ve chosen. WPI is a great way to figure out what your unlabeled yarn is, but isn’t necessarily a good way to figure out what yarn to use for a specific project.
I just attended the New England Fiber Fest and came across the WPI which was a new term for me. Lo and behold, I came home and this wonderful video was in my feed. I just ordered the tool.
My friend wants to knit a skirt and use a chunky weight yarn that she has in her stash. This information will be invaluable. Thank you so much Taylor. I love being a knitting nerd. ❤
Oh My Gosh! This is so much help! I often use yarn other than what is listed in the pattern. I am so grateful for your 'deep dive' to have a better way to measure my planned yarn as compared to pattern. I always learn so much from your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great video!! Finally someone explained wraps that I can understand especially with 2 strands.
I just wanted to hop in and say that the wpi given on a Ravelry page is standardized and not specifically set by the pattern designer for that yarn pairing!! You will see a table pop up when you click on the question mark next to it, that shows Ravelry's conversion table from yarn weight name to wpi and knit gauge and yarnstandards naming! So, it does not mean that the pattern designer actually achieved exactly 11wpi with their yarn pairing! Their pairing probably just falls within the DK weight range, which Ravelry equates with 11wpi.
This is definitely illuminating! Keep up the deep dives into yarn sub’ing please. I think WPI helps explain why row guage is often a challenge while stitch gauge is more easily achieved.
I'm using this when I unravel thrift store sweaters, to figure out the starting point for choosing the right hook size to use with that yarn.
Ah yes! That's a fantastic reason to take the WPI measurment.
@@WOOLNEEDLESHANDS I sometimes buy yarn at flea markets or in thrift shops and they don't have the label. Will use this next time!
Once again you hit the nail on the head. You’ve deduced and synthesized what I’ve always suspected when it comes to pairing yarns versus a single yarn of the same weight. Loved the video this week!
Love this! Last year, I needed to use several different types of yarn to get my color scheme, but needed all sport weight so the gauges of the patterns would work together. I used WPI to find three different yarn types so I could have all 12 colors and patterns. WPI is a great tool to have in the box.
This is a great explanatory video. I went ahead and bought a gague set. Very useful. I couldn't get that particular one you used, but instead a set of 3. Despite knitting a lot I wouldn't have been aware of wraps per inch. Thank you. 👍
So glad this was helpful!
One of my favorite things about your channel is how professionally shot your videos are! I love that the audio is in stereo, the picture is clear, you speak intentionally and with detail, and your background is a place I want to be :)
What microphone do you use, out of curiosity? It always sounds good, in headphones or just playing out of my phone!
@@beezaroni thank you so much. Truly. And I use a Blue Yeti pro. ❤️❤️
@@WOOLNEEDLESHANDS thank you!!
This is great. I buy some hand spun yarns every year from local to me artists at my favorite fall event and while most of the time its labeled with grams or ounces or yardage and i measure myself too, this is something i should do to help me really hone in on the best project for each special yarn. Someone did tell me once that measuring wraps per inch would be most accurate when wrapped around a round object vs a flat ruler. And yes as others noted, we all just sat here listening to this lady for an hour talking about measuring an inch lol. Love it
Me: gets notified of video
Also me: wool needle hands has posted everyone shut up
@@chacehawkins4708 😘😘😘
This is a great demo. I think this also emphasizes the importance of swatching to get the fabric you want. If you want your sweater to look exactly like what is pictured use the exact same yarn weight, fiber, and vendor then swatch to get gauge. If you want to play around with it, it can be really fun to select your yarns based off the fabric qualities you desire.
Illuminating is an understatement! 🤯 Thanks for explaining all this in such detail!
My pleasure! Thank you so much for watching!
Love this kind of video. I use my WPI tool quite often because I find that a pattern may say one yarn weight, but have it based on the gauge that was gotten or the ball band info, not the actual WPI. The other thing that is interesting is that some companies will give a specific gauge based on yards/meters per 100 grams, which may actually suggest a different gauge than the WPI because of the type of yarn construction, or the yarn fiber. For example, a merino/cotton blend will have less yards per 100g of straight up wool because there are less yards in a gram of cotton. It's all just very interesting. When I started spinning my own yarn and get different grist depending on how the same fiber was spun, and different WPI, is when I realized that swatching was super important, and that knitting a square in stitch pattern and then figuring out how much yardage that used, then calculating the square inches in a garment, would also help me relax when it comes to yarn chicken. I could pretty confidently figure out how much yardage in whatever yarn I was using, for whatever project.
Thanks again & have a great day!
Thank you SO MUCH for this video!! I knew of wpi, but did not realize its usefulness before. I started knitting two years ago but am intimidated by knitting sweaters because I am afraid of how off my gauge will be. I would rather swap out yarns than track down what is used in the pattern, and was always concerned by the allowed variation in a yarn weight category, and did not want to spend hours knitting gauge swatches trying to get gauge right. Also, how adding a strand of mohair completely increased the weight of the overall fabric when it's so thin completely baffled me. Seeing you test and compare a single strand and two strands to get a similar weight was so helpful!! I will absolutely use wpi as a first step before knitting a gauge swatch when I get adventurous enough to knit a sweater!!
Admittedly I have had a couple little drinks but this is so interesting and informative! Thanks so much,😊
I feel like I’m taking a lovely laid back knitting class with your videos and I’m here for it 🥰
Oh, I love that! Thank you Jody. ❤
This was one of the most informative videos I have seen in a very long time. Thank you so much 😊🧶
This was so informative. I’ve been knitting for 20 years and substitute yarn all the time but it never occurred to me that the WPI really mattered. 🤯
Very interesting! I never thought about checking what wraps per inch the yarn I’m planning on substituting is. That’s definitely very helpful.
Thank you!
I’m sold!! That tool would be helpful for future yarn projects 😊
I was wondering how one can tell how long your yarn should be when casting on a product. I have having a long tail when done with the car on. Loved this episode!
Thanks so much Tayler for an extremely useful video. Also to contributors in this comment section.
My pleasure! And there are always so many knowledgeable (more knowledgeable than me) folks leaving little bits of their wisdom down here and I love that!
So interesting! The Love Note sweater is listed as fingering + lace = DK on Ravelry. I swatched with a DK and the fabric was way too open for my liking. It seemed I’d have to go down several needle sizes to get a fabric I’d like, so I abandoned the project. This video helps explain what happened! My DK yarn probably had more WPI than the yarn combination in the pattern.
I think the little groove on the bottom of the gauge is where you attach your yarn when you begin to wrap for the gauge...😊
Oh yes! Totally,. I was wondering about that...😊
I feel this is super informative and makes me think that maybe pattern designers should also consider this as a standard. Especially because I think the wpi on ravelry is auto generated. Definitely a food for thought and how we as knitters can continue to evolve.
Really interesting and important!
Both your video as well as comments in the thread are extremely informative!
I’m so glad! It takes a village ‘round here and I love that. ❤️
This was super helpful and explained a LOT! Next question or video idea….how to determine when purchasing yarn (especially when we have to purchase online) how do we ensure the yarn we buy will work. Many sites do t show a WPI. (Or if there is an obvious answer that I may not be getting let me know!!!!😬😬)
Great suggestion! I’d love to dive down this rabbit hole.
This was fascinating. What a great way to take some of the guesswork out of swatching when substituting yarns. Also, as I am currently knitting the Sunday sweater in a bulky weight yarn, made a lot of sense why I had to size down my needles to get gauge.
That solves the mystery I've been wondering about for years. So thank you very much! I appreciate your efforts and it's nice to see you having so much fun with these types of videos!🧶
I’m glad this is helpful! Thank you for watching. I do really love these sort of exploratory videos. I’m not one to do tutorials, but I’ll do trial and error demo videos like this all day. ☺️☺️
Thank you SO much for this video. I have a basket of balls of yarn without ball bands Now I can sort them out, one at a time,
This was SO helpful!!! I am using yarn that was given to me but has no tags. This helps so much!!!
Thank you for doing this Tayler. I had the same basic questions about wraps per inch that you did when you first started researching it. It is much clearer to me now.😊
This is a very useful video, I’ll need to get one of those gauges. Thanks for this.
Super interesting. Thank you for sharing this ❤
Thank you for testing different methods for measuring the WPI. I tried with a ruler and a pencil and it worked not fine. I really thought I were to dumb to get it right. I think I try to make my own tool tomorrow. Have a nice weekend.
This video has convinced me to start swatching…and to buy one of those combo gauge tools
I’m glad it has because once you realize that swatching is so much more than just trying to match up the gauge of some designer (in fact, it shouldn’t be that at all-watch next week’s video), you realize it’s not only a lot more informative, but that you actually look forward to making it the first step in your process.
Thanks for the awesome tips. As a knitting newbie I didn’t know what wpi on ravelry meant, and this was like a lightbulb moment and now I feel a little silly for not figuring it out.
Such a great video! I do have mystery yarns in my stash so I’m excited to pick up one of these tools. My LYS has a tool that you lay the yarn in and it tells you what weight it is (similar to the back of this tool), but they’ve been out of stock for a while!
Thanks for this video! I don't knit with animal fibers so I'm having a really hard time finding comparable yarn for the garments I want to make. I only started my first knitted sweater about 3 months ago, but I'm having a hard time making gauge. My first sweater is turning out to be quite oversized which is ok but I want to make more fitted garments.
Great info. I never noticed before that Ravelry had WPI listed. I will be checking on future projects as well. Thank you!
Excellent content! You are an great teacher! I really like how you go deep and carfully explain what is going on.
Thank you so much! This means a lot. ❤️
Excellent video, Tayler! I loved learning along with you!
I'm so glad Kristin. Thank you for watching!
That is so interesting. I also noticed that the number of plies makes a difference. Your Super Bulky that measured out on the light side was only two plies and probably squishes or flattens out more than a 3 ply would. I’m super impressed with that tool. Could you please tell me what those interesting cut out swirls are for on the bottom. They look like they are not random and must do something.
"Well if I'm putting it simply, and that's where I'm putting it..." LOL, love that. This is timely, as I just experienced this problem! I have a pattern that uses two yarns and says together you get an aran weight. I tried an "aran" weight and then a "worsted" weight yarn to get gauge and it did not work, even with much smaller needles. I tried a DK weight yarn and got gauge, no problem. I suspect that it has something to do with the WPI range. The pattern is assuming that a DK and a lace weight yarn equal aran, but in fact, it just equals a DK with one or two less WPI. I also wonder if Ravelry just does some kind of internal calculation to get their WPI estimate, or if the two yarns really do equal 7 WPI on that PetiteKnit sweater. In the end, I think it really does come down to gauge.
This difference of wpi in fingering yarns causes some of my socks to be boot density, and some socks (same vanilla pattern) to be summer socks!
Yep! It can really make all the difference.
as a spinner WPI is invaluable. Spinner tools have a WPI gage built in similar to that "combo gage" tool you have. All my yarn I make is mystery yarn until I do the steps you outline here.
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!!Gained so much knowledge! Thanks so much!
Thank you Tracy! So glad you enjoyed this one. ❤
This is so freakin USEFUL!!
I bought one of those "combo" tools years ago but could never figure out what the little "gaps" in the tool were for.
This is going to come in handy for those handful of OLD old old patterns I downloaded from Knitty years ago that were designed with long discontinued yarn.
I should be able to knit them with a comparable yarn (provided Ravelry has the original design yarn in the database).
I’m so glad you found this helpful Amy! I’m really excited to start using this little tool more often as well. ❤️
2:42 totally agree with the yarn density point. I made a bulky weight sweater from an acrylic aran yarn from stash. Worked perfectly and got gauge. I can't wait to learn more about wpi
Wow! This was super-informative! I'll be getting one of those tools, for sure. Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure Jennifer. Thank you for watching!
WPI and the conversion chart is essential to me to find knitting patterns for my hand-spun yarn.
Just went through stash and did this a few weeks ago-an old fashioned wooden ruler has enough friction that you don’t have to worry about the yarn slipping (aka better tension)
Thank you so much for doing a video about this very helpful ❤
Your experiment is very useful. I learned a lot. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you!
Thank you for this video. I'm now wondering how to prevent myself from buying a sweater quantity of yarn and then find out it's not the right wpi. 🤔
I'm looking forward to your video about gauge. Maybe the answer is there..
I never knew I needed this tool. Sadly, the one you linked is out of stock. But I will definitely get myself one. I have way too many mystery bundles not to.
So glad I found you! Thank you for this video!
@@cclark1273 I’m glad you found me too! Thank you for watching. ❤️
You can use an elastic band to stop the yarn from slipping on whatever tool you use :)
That’s a great idea!
Thank you for this video! It was super helpful bc I never knew what they meant by wraps per inch in a pattern. My question is though..do you think you’d need to do this beforehand if you had the recommended yarn for the pattern?
The thickness of the yarn on the back can also be used to make a quick and dirty approximation of your yarn thickness - the laser cut ones have a grove that you can put the yarn into and if it fits, it is ca. that gauge. So cool
Thank you - that was useful information I am going to be able to use
Love your vlogs. I learn so much and it’s just fun.
I'm so glad! Thank you so much for watching!
As a person with a yarn stash which has gifted yarns from friends and family, this is for me.
I’m so glad. Thank you for watching. ❤️❤️
For substitution I have found that "heft" of the yarn is fairly reliable; i.e. meterage/yardage per 100g, I have not checked whether this is also a close comparison with WPI
I was going to comment this too. For all the yarns I have purchased, I have a spreadsheet with all their available info, sorted by m/100g. It actually really surprised me how many yarns are listed in one category, but match more closely with the length/weight of a different category.
Of course, this is only possible (or at least, easily) with yarns you know this information for. So, I do have a WPI tool to use for yarns I may have been given without the yarn label/info. And of course, useful for two yarns held together.
I do like having it, but I still feel there is more room for error in using it because of the inconsistent tension issues between users, or even possibly the same user on a different day.
That being said, it’s all really approximations and doing your best to get close, and that’s where a swatch really becomes important for coming out with a finished project that you want to look & drape a certain way.
Haha if you wrap around a pencil or tree trunk it should end up the same since you’re measuring just the width of the yarns lined up next to each other but that was a funny mental image - wrapping a tree with yarn 😆
Great content and links provided - many thanks 🙏
You can absolutely wrap that yarn around anything, including a tree trunk or a cone! The only thing about an inconsistent circumference, it that your yarn may tend to slip or bunch a little. Otherwise, it's simply the yarn strands lined up next to each other and the circumference doesn't matter.
That’s true! It doesn’t even matter. lol. This has been one of those things that I really needed to wrap my brain around (no pun intended). 😂
Suri is heavier because most of the commercial stuff available to everyone (ie Cumulus) is about 328 yards per 50 grams while silk mohair is like 230 yards per 25 grams. So the Suri is much heavier. But if you dye yarn, you can find suri silk blends that are 437 yards per 50 grams (so about 218 yards per 25 grams) and much finer and closer to silk mohair density. Wool2dye4 sells one and one mixed with cashmere that I've been meaning to try.
Thank you. And then there’s grist, which I understand to be length/weight, so meters(or yds) per 100 grams. I use grist for handspun. But nothing beats a big swatch. :/
I was just about to say it would make an interesting follow up video comparing the two techniques to see if they would get you to the same place or if they would differ in the information you're getting from each technique. I've done a bit of grist comparison on suggested yarns for a pattern vs the yarn I have in stash or would like to use for the project. I find myself wondering what's "close enough" for substituting a different yarn? Would it compound if trying to hold multiple strands together? I am curious about all that. 🤔
@@noneyabusiness9243Yes, agreed with both of you. I’d love that to be a future exploration as well!
As someone else mentioned in the comments, I too think that the wpi designation in Ravelry is just specific to Ravelry and not the designer figuring that out. Perhaps Ravelry is only providing whatever the median range for that weight yarn and nothing special? How would we truly know? In my purchased patterns, such as Petite Knit patterns, the wpi is not listed in the pattern. I agree that this would be such invaluable information for the designer to give about the actual yarn that they use. I find substituting yarn in PK patterns difficult because she also doesn’t give actual yardage/meterage and instead makes it only about the yarn she used in weight.
WPI is a great way to determine yarn substitution, thanks so much for highlighting this information!!
This is one of my pet peeves, when a pattern designer only tells you how many “balls/skeins” of yarn are required for your size. And then you have to research how many grams/yards/meters per ball and how many in the yarn you want to use.
Taylor, to add to the confusion: My understanding is that bulky/super bulky/chunky yarns are designated differently between the U.S. and the U.K. In fact, I looked up the Craft Yarn Council to see what country(ies) they represent. They are located in Texas, but have several Canadian company members. Also, I think I heard that sport weight is pretty rare with UK yarns?
Ordered ✅. Thanks for the tip!
My pleasure Kati! Thank you for watching. ❤️
Thank you! I have mystery yarn and was clueless. Clueless no more.
Interesting experiments. Thank you.
You do need to watch it with yarns you buy at a big box store like Michaels or JoAnn's. I bought some Lion Brand Respun. It's supposed to be worsted, but it works up as more of a DK/Heavy Sport Weight yarn. But since Worsted is more prevalent in the Big Box Stores, you're going to get more sales, if you mark it as worsted.
WOW!!! Thank you.
(Off the subject, the blue-green and pinky-lilac mohair made a nicer marl than I thought it would!)
Super interesting! That tool is super cool but unfortunately not available in Canada right now. My thought is that since lace is so fine I really wonder if holding it with aran actually = bulky? I think I knit a bit tighter then most and doubt I would be able to achieve that. I know gauge plays a huge role but by the time I used a big enough needle to get that gauge the resulting fabric would be too loose. Does that even make sense 🤷🏻♀️. How can 11 be both DK and worsted?
So, if more wraps means denser and less wraps is a lighter density, how does that affect gauge and the ability to substitute yarns?
In the UK we have different weights of wool. We don't have bulky for instance. It can be quite difficult getting a tool that has UK yarn weights on it. Something to bear in mind if you're in the UK.
Just for your viewers' information, there is now a "Grist Calculator" by Becks over at Tiny Fibre Studios which I have found invaluable on occasion. Becks had looked for something like this online and realized there wasn't one, so she made it! Hugs
@@LadyValkyri oooo I need to look into this!! Thank you!
You can also use a rubber band on each end of yiur pencil or ruler if you forgo the gauge. So the yarn won't slip around as you are wrapping. Not sure if anyone posted it.
Oops! The Combo Gauge isn’t available anywhere. Nice score. Thanks for the explanation.
I love your table. Is it painted, or is that fancy contact paper?
Thank you! That is indeed fancy contact paper. 😅
If you use the ruler, and take your yarn tail through the hole at the end, and even use a piece of tape, that might validate the ruler as an acceptable tool.
Great point Kara!
I looked for the yarn gauge you showed on line. Apparently it is out of stock with no idea when it will be available in the future.
This is very helpful. I'm just wondering if the wpi shown in the pattern is real. Did the pattern designer actually create the wpi, or is the pattern just showing what a standard wpi would be for a bulky?
You know i need to ask, what pattern is your table top? Did you paint it, if it fabric? Is it for sale somewhere?😊
Any body else singing "A surrey with the fringe on top?" I have a tool around here somewhere, but usually use a little 3 inch ruler. It is easier to control than the longer ones.
I did!
As a designer does Ravelry ask you to enter the WPI or is it just giving an average cyc number? I have to wonder if those for the combo yarns are even accurate or average.
Do you can add your own WPI, but it also has a standard wpi option as well. Hard to know which is being used. If you look at the yarn page specifically, that wpi info would be the most accurate.
Thanks.