Great video, love my 350's good power to weight ratio. I made one of the "home made hose clamp tools" and clamp the boot. Just grind off the plastic ears and leave the rest of the plastic to protect the rubber boot. I wouldn't put it on a saw I was selling, but for my use I always have a hose clamp that fits, and holds better than store bought clamps.
I can say this with absolute certainty, you will never make that mistake again. Some of the best lessons are usually the most painful. It’s better than an expensive mistake!!! Lol
I always just put a little sealant around the old gaskets and leave them alone with mine I've ground right back to the screw head on those rear transfers to open up that bend
Great video i build saws too i use easy off oven cleaner to dissolve the carbon on the dome heat the cylinder first then apply probably have to reapply a couple times
At 3:00 of the video I stopped watching and secured my base block with moto seal. After doing this, I returned to watching the video and instantly thought..." Oh S*^&. I installed my crank backwards. " I was very relieved to hear that you installed your crank backwards : >) ! Thanks for making me feel okay in my sometimes mechanically errant humanity. And, thanks for a great video !
I've also read that a 395XP clamp will work by just removing the "locking tabs" and leaving the plastic ring in tact (not cutting it off) on the partition. I haven't proved this out myself though.
I did that except I was getting rid of a new china carb that had been put on a echo cs 4400. Bad carb had been removed months ago--sorta ticky getting gaskets,linkages etc lined up.. Got it back on -all happy-good job then looked around and saw my new carb just sitting there nice and quiet--felt silly then got it right 2nd round.
Thank you sooooo much. Got a 351 for free, and it had all the problems this saw can have :) The trick with the Stihl clamp was wonderful, as i really found even the "upgraded" metal clip dubious. So i just got in an order for the Stihl clip, along with a used coil, new piston ring, Hylomar sealant (can't get Motoseal etc. here, and Hylomar i fuel safe), carb rebuild kit, fuel line, and new motor oil pinion (why is that thing made of plastic?? I ordered two just to be safe) This is my first "real" saw, since i only had "homeowner saws" until now, so i'm excited to get this saw running good :) Keep up the good work. Would have loved to see your grinding work.
That ls a 1998 350 case 1st year of that model.. I’ve got one original 44mm piston.. correct me if I’m wrong though.. I like your attention to detail.. mostly
The piston clip ring can come out while running. Just had a saw in its first year of use loose the clip. Which ripped up the piston wall when it got caught on the gap in the piston ring.
Bummer! Sorry to hear it. On a saw I would be building for myself, I used to even clip the "ear(s)" off the circlip sometimes because I was paranoid they might possibly catch somehow.
Just curious as to what a job like this would cost a guy. I've got a couple 350s and wanted to know if it would be cheaper to buy a bigger saw or have a 350 ported and worked on by a magician like yourself.
I'm a little puzzled Ben. The 350 I just built didn't have the ground strap from the riser to the coil screw hole, nor did I know anything about them having the strap since this was the first time I had built a 350. So, did all 350's have the strap?
I can't speak for ALL, but I've never seen one without it. In my eyes without it, there is nothing to ground the coil to the metal cylinder. Without it the coil is just bolted/seated to the plastic saw body. Anyway, part number for the "earthing strip" is 544196401 probably not much help, but that's about all I can offer.
@@samishsawworks5870 I was wondering also how it was getting a ground after watching your vid. I don't remember it at all. I going to take the starter off and take a look. The saw runs fine. Thanks for the info.
Some later version 350s (like this one) were factory 45mm bore. I ported the cylinder & used a hyway pop up piston. www.wolfcreeksawshop.com/product/hyway-pop-up-piston-kit-for-husqvarna-350-353-45mm-extra-compression/# This saw makes an appearance around the 10:50 & 16:30 mark in this video. ruclips.net/video/lVjXPWIhS6U/видео.html
I don't on this model. Since the seals are incorporated over the bearing, they're a nice wide rubber seal. There isn't any on them from the factory so I don't put any on myself. If you wanted to put a thin coat on the seals, I guess one could. I don't think you would hurt anything. Personally, I try and keep the sealant (excess sealant anyway) as far away from the crankcase area as I can. This is only one man's opinion of course. Others may say differently.
@@samishsawworks5870 I just bought a 44mm Metor piston for my 350 ,cant wait to see how it turns out after some mods,have some timed results on a 12x12 oak cant documented in it current state
Great video and don’t worry about the crank. Stuff happens to the best of us.
Great video, love my 350's good power to weight ratio. I made one of the "home made hose clamp tools" and clamp the boot. Just grind off the plastic ears and leave the rest of the plastic to protect the rubber boot. I wouldn't put it on a saw I was selling, but for my use I always have a hose clamp that fits, and holds better than store bought clamps.
I can say this with absolute certainty, you will never make that mistake again. Some of the best lessons are usually the most painful. It’s better than an expensive mistake!!! Lol
True story! I'm just glad it was a clam shell and I didn't have to split cases afterword ;)
Great stuff! Really cool to see other folks bloopers.... Thanks for sharing.
We all have a brain fart from time to time! Thanks for your honesty!👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏😌😌😌😌
Some good tips specific to the Husky 350. Much appreciated. 👍
I always just put a little sealant around the old gaskets and leave them alone with mine I've ground right back to the screw head on those rear transfers to open up that bend
Great video i build saws too i use easy off oven cleaner to dissolve the carbon on the dome heat the cylinder first then apply probably have to reapply a couple times
At 3:00 of the video I stopped watching and secured my base block with moto seal. After doing this, I returned to watching the video and instantly thought..." Oh S*^&. I installed my crank backwards. " I was very relieved to hear that you installed your crank backwards : >) ! Thanks for making me feel okay in my sometimes mechanically errant humanity. And, thanks for a great video !
Great video just got me a 350 mint condition bout to do some mods awsome video
When I see the intake mod I thought that was worth while .I was hoping a 372 clamp would work then I popped up in writing...great tip..
I've also read that a 395XP clamp will work by just removing the "locking tabs" and leaving the plastic ring in tact (not cutting it off) on the partition. I haven't proved this out myself though.
I did that except I was getting rid of a new china carb that had been put on a echo cs 4400. Bad carb had been removed months ago--sorta ticky getting gaskets,linkages etc lined up.. Got it back on -all happy-good job then looked around and saw my new carb just sitting there nice and quiet--felt silly then got it right 2nd round.
Can't you just take off the plastic clamp on the intake boot and replace it with a regular hose clamp the proper size? Thanks
I just rebuilt one and did this no problems so far .
Thank you sooooo much.
Got a 351 for free, and it had all the problems this saw can have :) The trick with the Stihl clamp was wonderful, as i really found even the "upgraded" metal clip dubious. So i just got in an order for the Stihl clip, along with a used coil, new piston ring, Hylomar sealant (can't get Motoseal etc. here, and Hylomar i fuel safe), carb rebuild kit, fuel line, and new motor oil pinion (why is that thing made of plastic?? I ordered two just to be safe)
This is my first "real" saw, since i only had "homeowner saws" until now, so i'm excited to get this saw running good :)
Keep up the good work. Would have loved to see your grinding work.
That ls a 1998 350 case 1st year of that model.. I’ve got one original 44mm piston.. correct me if I’m wrong though.. I like your attention to detail.. mostly
The piston clip ring can come out while running. Just had a saw in its first year of use loose the clip. Which ripped up the piston wall when it got caught on the gap in the piston ring.
Bummer! Sorry to hear it. On a saw I would be building for myself, I used to even clip the "ear(s)" off the circlip sometimes because I was paranoid they might possibly catch somehow.
Crank is in backwards 😎
Yeah I noticed that too but I was watching for the ground strap I left off one time, and I remember it well 😊😊😊😊
Just curious as to what a job like this would cost a guy. I've got a couple 350s and wanted to know if it would be cheaper to buy a bigger saw or have a 350 ported and worked on by a magician like yourself.
Well I left ground strap off once and I went to coffee pot and drink it all 😅
Good video
New subscriber
Cheers
Hey Ben...good old vid quality and commentary....
I'm a little puzzled Ben.
The 350 I just built didn't have the ground strap from the riser to the coil screw hole, nor did I know anything about them having the strap since this was the first time I had built a 350. So, did all 350's have the strap?
I can't speak for ALL, but I've never seen one without it. In my eyes without it, there is nothing to ground the coil to the metal cylinder. Without it the coil is just bolted/seated to the plastic saw body. Anyway, part number for the "earthing strip" is 544196401 probably not much help, but that's about all I can offer.
@@samishsawworks5870 I was wondering also how it was getting a ground after watching your vid. I don't remember it at all.
I going to take the starter off and take a look.
The saw runs fine.
Thanks for the info.
Did you put the stock motor in and just throw a pop up? Or is this a big bore with a pop up? I have the same saw and looking to build her like this!
Some later version 350s (like this one) were factory 45mm bore. I ported the cylinder & used a hyway pop up piston. www.wolfcreeksawshop.com/product/hyway-pop-up-piston-kit-for-husqvarna-350-353-45mm-extra-compression/#
This saw makes an appearance around the 10:50 & 16:30 mark in this video.
ruclips.net/video/lVjXPWIhS6U/видео.html
ben you dont put any sealant around the bearing recesses in the case or the cap? is it not necessary? thanks. james.
I don't on this model. Since the seals are incorporated over the bearing, they're a nice wide rubber seal. There isn't any on them from the factory so I don't put any on myself. If you wanted to put a thin coat on the seals, I guess one could. I don't think you would hurt anything. Personally, I try and keep the sealant (excess sealant anyway) as far away from the crankcase area as I can. This is only one man's opinion of course. Others may say differently.
Можна узнать что это за цылиндр, 44? 45? mm?
Hey bro What's that gasket sealant that you're using called thanks
It's called threebond 1184, but there are many others that are essentially the same thing. Hondabond, yamabond, dirko, etc.
Try Hylomar. It's fuel safe, and i've used it a ton. Good stuff, and it comes off easy if you need to replace anything.
Is that the blue hylomar, its all I can find in uk , no motoseal ect just silicone based motoseal.
What bore size is your cylinder 44mm or45mm
45mm
@@samishsawworks5870 Ok ,Thanks i thought it was a 45mm Hyway piston
@@paulguptill8845 10-4
It's my first time using aftermarket other than meteor. We'll see how it holds up.
@@samishsawworks5870 I just bought a 44mm Metor piston for my 350 ,cant wait to see how it turns out after some mods,have some timed results on a 12x12 oak cant documented in it current state
It happens and it doesn’t matter how many years you do it
No big deal other than you being mad at yourself 😢
Laugh it off