You're the expert, but seems to me finishing the ceiling where the cabinet is going would be ideal so if its ever removed or remodeled there's a finished ceiling underneath. I think this same argument pertains to floors as well. To each their own. Looks great.
I agree and did things like that in my house but I did it all myself. When you are paying someone else to do it, well, you get what they want you to pay for. They probabaly convinced the owner to have them build those boxes above the cabinets so it would be easier for them to blend in the ceiling and charge them extra for cabinetry.
I just did my family room... covered old popcorn. Finished it off with some simple custom milled 1x2 crown molding I profiled to match the baseboards. It came out great and I get so many compliments from people who now want to do the same. I went with more modern chamfered T&G 5-1/4" reveal boards and placed them perpendicular to the main natural light source (slider door) to reduce any apparent imperfections. I liked it so much that I'm currently re-doing my attached kitchen ceiling the same, making the rooms flow together. The cutoffs were used to wainscot the bathroom walls using the beaded side, so save them!
Dude you are amazing! You just provided me with a tremendous help! I live and work in Sistersville West Virginia, a historic tiny little town filled with homes built in the late 1800’s early 1900’s. And they are filled with the same bead boards that are constantly rotten away or damaged. And I was convinced those boards are no longer manufactured and are irreplaceable. But thanks to you I now know that I can order whatever I need for repairs or replacements! You are amazing bro! Thank you very much!
I was taught by a well known NY designer that worked in older homes such as this, that you always go the opposite direction of the hardwood floors. Y'all did a beautiful job on this historic home. I love to see older homes well taken care of-if only they could talk!
The ceiling turned out so nice, Richard. Thanks for the idea. My nephew in Big Spring is remodeling a historic (with designated marker) home that has been in his wive's family for years. I am going to suggest he watch this episode. Good finished carpentry to you all. May fortune always favor you and yours. Hugs from Midland, Texas.
I'd suggest that if the ceiling your doing does not have cladding like this one, that you snap a chalk line where the ceiling joists are so that you know you're nailing into a solid ststraps. Instead of just sheetrock. If you're running the boards parallel to the ceiling joists, rip strips of 3/4" plywood & nail them into the ceiling joists perpendicular all the way across the room. Then nail the beadboard into these strips.
The classic beaded ceiling. Hard to beat in that style of home. Now you got me thinking. As you were installing that I looked up at my Livingroom ceiling and thought it would be a good look.
I did the same, as I looked up at the swirl pattern texture on my ceiling I've consistently failed to duplicate during repairs because I don't have the exact brush it was originally done with 60 years ago...
The first place I thought of was the ceiling area in my foyer & hallway. In fact, since all the ceilings in my house was originally popcorn, I think this would look great through out. We’ve removed or had popcorn ceilings removed in a couple rooms. The house is more than fifty years old so some of the popcorn is cracking. This would make the entire house look nice & it would flow through each room very well.
My popcorn ceiling is at least 40 years old. I noticed that it was not white or maybe discolored after I purchased the home. I purchased regular ceiling paint and some recommended rollers . In no time did I realize that it was using to much paint and rolling was not working. I ended up cutting the paint to 50% water and used a nylon large car washing brush. Painted the ceiling and primed the walls using same brush.
I have installed three of these "6 V-groove pine ceilings with "4 picture frame on sloped ceilings, each of them were 550sqft. The first was a 50/50 paint whitewash, the second was a golden oak stain/poly, and the third was antiqued 50/50 grey whitewash. The majority of the time was spent prepping and treating the material. But they look amazing and the customers love them.
Good upgrade and far better to not disturb popcorn is my 2 cents as a drywall finisher …. Intense mess and if asbestos far better to encase it away than scrape breathe those fibers
I've been trying to decide what to do with my swirl pattern textured ceiling for a couple of years, I don't know why I had not thought of just going over it with beaded boards!
So much better than the acoustic tiles. We have a house built in 1900 and it stood empty for a few years before we bought it. No roof leaks but the paint popped on the ceiling in many places from the furnace and A/c being turned off. I so want to do this in my dining room. I'd like to in my kitchen and our main bathroom too, BUT... I'm concerned that the humidity in those two rooms from bathing and cooking might cause problems with it. Additionally, while I never deep fry anything, there are natural fats in meats that atomize into the air while cooking making washing kitchen walls necessary (as is normal in any home). I'm concerned that this would create an issue with the bead board ceiling over time. Any suggestions/input?
I think you are overthinking and worrying when it's not necessary. Homes and businesses used to be solid wood interiors-there was no such thing as sheetrock, then plaster became popular when Italian immigrants came to America with those lovely skills and interiors were elevated with plasterwork. Wooden ceilings will last forever if your roof doesn't leak. If it does, you'll have lots to worry about. Put in the wooden ceilings! It will be beautiful and time appropriate.
I love beadboard and v groove interior surfaces. Growing up in CA gold country, all those old gold rush era buildings had all the walls and ceilings done with beaded board.
Perfect! Great job. I’ve done lots of tongue and groove, and you are correct, it’s an entry level DIY job. And the best is you can do it with cheap DeWalt tools. Keep the videos coming. Always learn something.
Looking to the layout from floor to ceiling orientation in other rooms is what sets you apart as a better carpenter from the next. Question… if there wasn’t any other v groom ceilings in the house to reference orientation, would you have still gone in line from the door entry or from the floor?
Question: some of what you're covering has obvious marks from leaks. Doesn't having the wood there make it harder to deal with the aftermath of future leaks?
What did you nail TO? I have a similar upcoming project and the direction of the furing strips or ceiling joists will determine the direction of the boards.
Outstanding! I want to do that, I have popcorn ceilings, my prob is, my living room is almost 40 ft long and like an A frame! Doable but not quite as easy as a flat ceiling! After seeing your finished project I Know the work will be worth it Thanks
What were you nailing the bead board into? I've had carpenters tell me to glue the back of the board when you're doing ceiling work, do you ever do this? Thx, Bill
I like the beaded look 50 years plus experience i personally don't cover up garbage popcorn plaster it gets removed and if insulation is a issue add more
Popcorn ceilings are idiotic. It serves no purpose, it collects dust, cobwebs and tiny creepy crawlies. It's hard to keep clean, and it looks ugly as hell. It was invented by a contractor looking to make a few extra bucks for doing some make-work nonsense.
- That WindsorOne web site is great. I have a potential project in Pinehurst NC, vaulted ceiling and would sure like to use a quality bead board. I’ll be contacting Windsor on Monday to see if they have distribution in NC. - Ive followed your video for quite a few years and your projects are done so well and professional. I also find it interesting seeing the homes and classic styles you have in Texas such as the home you just installed the headboard.
Note: Many ceiling tiles, and popcorn ceilings contain asbestos. Leaving it in place can be significantly safer and less expensive, than removing it, when you add in the cost of the asbestos abatement. Also, the nailers designed for installing engineered hardwood floors work on beaded tongue and groove if adjusted right.
Those "foam" tiles are often installed on 1x2 purlins, especially in old homes were walls and ceilings where lathe and plaster. In which case you would need to either install the t&g perpendicular to the purlins or strip the ceiling down to the lathe (because the plaster will come down anyway). One word of caution: Asbestos. Some of those old ceiling tiles had asbestos in them. Have them tested and if found to contain asbestos, have them removed by a qualified asbestos abatement company.
@@ronaldkaipio8324 When possible, I agree. Every situation is different. If you need to run the t&g parallel to the purlins or there is damage to the ceiling that makes it necessary.
What is that stuff that looks like foam and sounds like foam? I have that stuff too and hate it. Is it thick, thin, is it like drywall from the 60’s? Can it easily be removed? What is it?
3 man job. Cut man and two nailers. That’s the best way. But I agree. Anytime I have Sheetrock repair in my house I do shiplap, cypress for ceiling. It’s awesome. Eventually my entire House will be wood haha
I've had issues painting t&g after install. Paint cracking where the boards meet. Do the painters avoid the seams? We prepaint them before install now.
Make sure your wood acclimatizes. Could take a month in the house. Richard had a job on YT that did exactly that, and he caulked it. I avoid caulking bead board.
I've done places where they insisted no spaces no corner trim tight 1/16 minus between beams i always wonder what a disaster it will be if a pipe or roof leaks and the humidity goes through the roof 😂 even had a project manager at a ski rental shop try to insist on everything tight got him to let us leave an 1/8 next to a concrete wall 40 feet of tongue and groove ceiling. All those people tracking in all that snow 😂😮
Not original to the house. He said someone remodeled the house and put acoustical tiles on the ceiling. Then when he was up next to the ceiling he said it was foam and soft enough to squash with his thumb. Asbestos tiles are not soft.
I assume this is “primed”? From the video it looks pretty darn white. Just a few nail holes would need to be filled and one finish coat of paint? I’m a retired ceiling man but I acknowledge acoustical is not a good fit for a classically styled home. I recommend staging for the next job like this. Less up and down! Oh, and by the way, it looks like real wood. I have bad luck with compressed sawdust.
How did you find the rafters to put the nails into. Looks like the nailing was random. Interesting video, I want to do this in a ceiling in my house. Thank you.
I did a popcorn ceiling removal. I shot water on the ceiling to soften it up. I know it's messy but it didn't matter because the apartment was basically gutted. Once that was done, I skimmed the ceiling, then shot texture to give it a new look.
I have an old 4 bedroom house and every ceiling has popcorn. I hate it but it’s such a mess to remove and I have a lot to remove. I’m thinking about covering up because it would be less messy
Setting up the circle saw with the track seems like a huge time saver from walking back and forth, into and out of the install space to the garage, driveway or other area where a miter saw station might be set up. That’s a heck of an idea.
@@mrjacktraeger well, I’m glad I finally found the person in the world who knows everything. I knew you had to exist. Although, you should know, there are other people out there trying to steal your identity. As they also claim to know it all.
Its a mafell made idea and they use it for most of their circ saws up to 85 mm, it works great. They also have a small one for thin boards, extremely light and accurate.
I imagine the hardest part is making sure that first piece is absolutely straight. Any variance would compound the further you go and look obvious, no?
A lot of that old 12”x12” concealed spine ceiling tile had significant asbestos, it might be ok to just cover it with the new material, but some jurisdictions may require remediation. Check with local codes, or take a sample to have tested.
I'm eating a fortune cookie as I'm watching this...' YOU WILL BE INSPIRED TO CREATE YOUR MASTERPIECE TODAY' ... lol we have those sagging square tiles in our 100 yr old rental house.
I’m not sure why you wouldn’t continue the boards to the wall even above the cabinets. At some point the cabinets may be taken out and then you’re left with a section missing.
Check out WindsorOne boards I used here: windsorone.com/catalog/
I don’t think Windsorone is available in Canada. But it is a great looking product.
@@gordonturner3554we need to change that 😎 I’ll see what I can find out.
You will be surprised a lot of these old homes are super straight even through years of settlement
@@gordonturner3554 They have 1 distributor in Ontario. I've used them.
You're the expert, but seems to me finishing the ceiling where the cabinet is going would be ideal so if its ever removed or remodeled there's a finished ceiling underneath. I think this same argument pertains to floors as well. To each their own. Looks great.
Uhh no! So far wrong
I agree and did things like that in my house but I did it all myself. When you are paying someone else to do it, well, you get what they want you to pay for. They probabaly convinced the owner to have them build those boxes above the cabinets so it would be easier for them to blend in the ceiling and charge them extra for cabinetry.
I just did my family room... covered old popcorn. Finished it off with some simple custom milled 1x2 crown molding I profiled to match the baseboards. It came out great and I get so many compliments from people who now want to do the same.
I went with more modern chamfered T&G 5-1/4" reveal boards and placed them perpendicular to the main natural light source (slider door) to reduce any apparent imperfections. I liked it so much that I'm currently re-doing my attached kitchen ceiling the same, making the rooms flow together. The cutoffs were used to wainscot the bathroom walls using the beaded side, so save them!
Dude you are amazing! You just provided me with a tremendous help! I live and work in Sistersville West Virginia, a historic tiny little town filled with homes built in the late 1800’s early 1900’s. And they are filled with the same bead boards that are constantly rotten away or damaged. And I was convinced those boards are no longer manufactured and are irreplaceable. But thanks to you I now know that I can order whatever I need for repairs or replacements! You are amazing bro! Thank you very much!
I was taught by a well known NY designer that worked in older homes such as this, that you always go the opposite direction of the hardwood floors. Y'all did a beautiful job on this historic home. I love to see older homes well taken care of-if only they could talk!
We installed a Windsor One ceiling at a lake house a couple months ago. I chose W1 after watching you use it over the years!
The ceiling turned out so nice, Richard. Thanks for the idea. My nephew in Big Spring is remodeling a historic (with designated marker) home that has been in his wive's family for years. I am going to suggest he watch this episode. Good finished carpentry to you all. May fortune always favor you and yours. Hugs from Midland, Texas.
I'd suggest that if the ceiling your doing does not have cladding like this one, that you snap a chalk line where the ceiling joists are so that you know you're nailing into a solid ststraps. Instead of just sheetrock. If you're running the boards parallel to the ceiling joists, rip strips of 3/4" plywood & nail them into the ceiling joists perpendicular all the way across the room. Then nail the beadboard into these strips.
The classic beaded ceiling. Hard to beat in that style of home. Now you got me thinking. As you were installing that I looked up at my Livingroom ceiling and thought it would be a good look.
I did the same, as I looked up at the swirl pattern texture on my ceiling I've consistently failed to duplicate during repairs because I don't have the exact brush it was originally done with 60 years ago...
Same here. I did a double take at my ceiling and decided to try this method.
The first place I thought of was the ceiling area in my foyer & hallway. In fact, since all the ceilings in my house was originally popcorn, I think this would look great through out. We’ve removed or had popcorn ceilings removed in a couple rooms. The house is more than fifty years old so some of the popcorn is cracking. This would make the entire house look nice & it would flow through each room very well.
My popcorn ceiling is at least 40 years old. I noticed that it was not white or maybe discolored after I purchased the home. I purchased regular ceiling paint and some recommended rollers . In no time did I realize that it was using to much paint and rolling was not working. I ended up cutting the paint to 50% water and used a nylon large car washing brush. Painted the ceiling and primed the walls using same brush.
I have installed three of these "6 V-groove pine ceilings with "4 picture frame on sloped ceilings, each of them were 550sqft. The first was a 50/50 paint whitewash, the second was a golden oak stain/poly, and the third was antiqued 50/50 grey whitewash. The majority of the time was spent prepping and treating the material. But they look amazing and the customers love them.
Good upgrade and far better to not disturb popcorn is my 2 cents as a drywall finisher …. Intense mess and if asbestos far better to encase it away than scrape breathe those fibers
I've been trying to decide what to do with my swirl pattern textured ceiling for a couple of years, I don't know why I had not thought of just going over it with beaded boards!
Oh I’d love to cover all my popcorn ceilings with this !
Looks great!! How did you do on your last course? Did you have a rip, or was it bang on at 77? What's your method for out of square rooms? THX
I'm really enjoying watching your growth and video production level.
Love the beaded ceiling. I put that in my kitchen, also perpendicular to the floor when I removed the fluorescent lighting. Added a small crown.
Every time I check these videos your tools are a different colour! Someone's doing well!
So much better than the acoustic tiles. We have a house built in 1900 and it stood empty for a few years before we bought it. No roof leaks but the paint popped on the ceiling in many places from the furnace and A/c being turned off. I so want to do this in my dining room. I'd like to in my kitchen and our main bathroom too, BUT... I'm concerned that the humidity in those two rooms from bathing and cooking might cause problems with it. Additionally, while I never deep fry anything, there are natural fats in meats that atomize into the air while cooking making washing kitchen walls necessary (as is normal in any home). I'm concerned that this would create an issue with the bead board ceiling over time. Any suggestions/input?
Use a good fan when frying to exhaust out
Then don’t sweat it
Ceilings get washed when being repainted
I think you are overthinking and worrying when it's not necessary. Homes and businesses used to be solid wood interiors-there was no such thing as sheetrock, then plaster became popular when Italian immigrants came to America with those lovely skills and interiors were elevated with plasterwork. Wooden ceilings will last forever if your roof doesn't leak. If it does, you'll have lots to worry about. Put in the wooden ceilings! It will be beautiful and time appropriate.
Did you scarf the joints or did you butt them together? Nice job looks great. 👍
Real respect for the house. Looks grand.
Love the look, and I’m wondering about the expense of all those individual bead board?
Looks great. We need more of this in newer homes as well.
Thanks. I have a room with a tile ceiling, and the other rooms have cracks in the ceiling. This presentation seems like an option for me.
Nice! Tidying up the earth one room at a time.
How would you attach it if you didnt have wood under the foam acoustic tile? If, say it were a popcorn finish on a drywall ceiling?
You could only nail where ceiling joists were, so gluing it would be a good idea, or putting up plywood first to nail into, but that's more costly.
That would look nice on my patio under the balcony!
So 2” 18g mail through 3/4” board and 1/2” ceiling tiles into some sort of “cladding “ leaving 3/4” to 7/8” nail grab. Sounds solid?!
I love beadboard and v groove interior surfaces. Growing up in CA gold country, all those old gold rush era buildings had all the walls and ceilings done with beaded board.
Perfect! Great job. I’ve done lots of tongue and groove, and you are correct, it’s an entry level DIY job. And the best is you can do it with cheap DeWalt tools. Keep the videos coming. Always learn something.
That window needs a seat under it. Such a lovely house!
I wish I lived closer to you to have this done- excellent work!
Looking to the layout from floor to ceiling orientation in other rooms is what sets you apart as a better carpenter from the next. Question… if there wasn’t any other v groom ceilings in the house to reference orientation, would you have still gone in line from the door entry or from the floor?
Quality solutions. Pre-cutting to lengths makes for a nice random symmetry on the finished ceiling.
Question: some of what you're covering has obvious marks from leaks. Doesn't having the wood there make it harder to deal with the aftermath of future leaks?
What did you nail TO? I have a similar upcoming project and the direction of the furing strips or ceiling joists will determine the direction of the boards.
7:30
👆🏼
Brief explanation here.
Ahhh! I prolly should have watched til the end.
But what is meant by cladding here? Is the cladding the acoustic tiles?
@@aliannarodriguez1581 I believe he means sheeting, plywood or tongue and groove. Something you can nail to, not the ceiling tile.
@@lukeblackford1677 Thanks!
Ahhh, this makes my heart flutter!
Beautiful transformation.👍🏻❤
Outstanding! I want to do that, I have popcorn ceilings, my prob is, my living room is almost 40 ft long and like an A frame! Doable but not quite as easy as a flat ceiling! After seeing your finished project I Know the work will be worth it Thanks
We had a 14x21’ lvg rm
Like living in a hallway ugh
What were you nailing the bead board into? I've had carpenters tell me to glue the back of the board when you're doing ceiling work, do you ever do this?
Thx, Bill
It’s so cool seeing Adam Corolla when he was a carpenter.
Great job! Love the look in that house and also kudos on the work to get the cabinets to the ceiling. Looks beautiful and neat! Cheers!
it goes with the house that's for sure. And I see you had two assistants on this job!
I like the beaded look 50 years plus experience i personally don't cover up garbage popcorn plaster it gets removed and if insulation is a issue add more
Interesting. I have a crappy popcorn ceiling in the main room and garage, and this intrigues me.
someone did a similar cover with sheetrock in my house. the additional weight everything fall over time.
Do you hit every Joist when nailing or you steeply angle your nails and add glue too??
Did you apply only a finish nail on the tongue for each board or both tongue and a face nail?
We have installed 4x8 sheets of beadboard, a lot cheaper option and looks great. You will need to trim seams with 1x4s
What did you nail to? Were you just randomly nailing?
Quark's! LMAO! That's awesome!
I'd like to see how you added the top pieces to the cabinets! I wanna do that to my kitchen cabinets.
Popcorn ceiling does not belong in a 130 year old house. Glad you made that go away.
Or any house! 😂
Popcorn ceilings are idiotic. It serves no purpose, it collects dust, cobwebs and tiny creepy crawlies. It's hard to keep clean, and it looks ugly as hell.
It was invented by a contractor looking to make a few extra bucks for doing some make-work nonsense.
- That WindsorOne web site is great. I have a potential project in Pinehurst NC, vaulted ceiling and would sure like to use a quality bead board. I’ll be contacting Windsor on Monday to see if they have distribution in NC.
- Ive followed your video for quite a few years and your projects are done so well and professional. I also find it interesting seeing the homes and classic styles you have in Texas such as the home you just installed the headboard.
Note: Many ceiling tiles, and popcorn ceilings contain asbestos. Leaving it in place can be significantly safer and less expensive, than removing it, when you add in the cost of the asbestos abatement. Also, the nailers designed for installing engineered hardwood floors work on beaded tongue and groove if adjusted right.
It looks awesome, you guys did an amazing job!
Top quality results, as usual. Just wish you posted more like you used to.
Outstanding work, looks great! Love your channel, my friend!
I'd like to see you attempt that on a popcorn ceiling. lol
I’ve done it multiple times lol
@@FinishCarpentryTV lol, sure
Those "foam" tiles are often installed on 1x2 purlins, especially in old homes were walls and ceilings where lathe and plaster. In which case you would need to either install the t&g perpendicular to the purlins or strip the ceiling down to the lathe (because the plaster will come down anyway). One word of caution: Asbestos. Some of those old ceiling tiles had asbestos in them. Have them tested and if found to contain asbestos, have them removed by a qualified asbestos abatement company.
No you go over it, why would you disturb all that
@@ronaldkaipio8324 When possible, I agree. Every situation is different. If you need to run the t&g parallel to the purlins or there is damage to the ceiling that makes it necessary.
What is that stuff that looks like foam and sounds like foam? I have that stuff too and hate it. Is it thick, thin, is it like drywall from the 60’s? Can it easily be removed? What is it?
You guys always do great work! Congrats!
Very nice and fits the period of the home.
Very nice touch with cabinets to ceiling!
3 man job. Cut man and two nailers. That’s the best way. But I agree. Anytime I have Sheetrock repair in my house I do shiplap, cypress for ceiling. It’s awesome. Eventually my entire
House will be wood haha
Great period difference at 0:09 1984 house and Google nest doorbell
Anachronism
1894, not 1984.👍🏻
"popcorn was a bad dude!"
Did he run a bunch of bad boys?
😂😂😂😂😂
Cornpop?
I've had issues painting t&g after install. Paint cracking where the boards meet. Do the painters avoid the seams? We prepaint them before install now.
Good point
Make sure your wood acclimatizes. Could take a month in the house. Richard had a job on YT that did exactly that, and he caulked it. I avoid caulking bead board.
@maddierosemusic * oh, man!
@@maddierosemusicexactly!
Excellent improvement.
I've done places where they insisted no spaces no corner trim tight 1/16 minus between beams i always wonder what a disaster it will be if a pipe or roof leaks and the humidity goes through the roof 😂 even had a project manager at a ski rental shop try to insist on everything tight got him to let us leave an 1/8 next to a concrete wall 40 feet of tongue and groove ceiling. All those people tracking in all that snow 😂😮
That tile is most likeely asbestos, better to bury than try and remove .good job
Actually they are fiberglass
Not original to the house. He said someone remodeled the house and put acoustical tiles on the ceiling. Then when he was up next to the ceiling he said it was foam and soft enough to squash with his thumb. Asbestos tiles are not soft.
But you are correct about covering and sealing it if it was asbestos. Far cheaper than the incredibly expensive process required to remove it.
They are Kentile. It was a popular alternative in the 40s-60s. The tiles are made of fiber. 😊
How deep do those nails go?
This looks fantastic, but I can see your next project already. Adding a window seat between those two cabinets. The space is just begging for it.
Do you ever use a 22.5° angle versus the butt joint?
Looks beautiful.
I assume this is “primed”? From the video it looks pretty darn white. Just a few nail holes would need to be filled and one finish coat of paint? I’m a retired ceiling man but I acknowledge acoustical is not a good fit for a classically styled home. I recommend staging for the next job like this. Less up and down! Oh, and by the way, it looks like real wood. I have bad luck with compressed sawdust.
How did you find the rafters to put the nails into. Looks like the nailing was random. Interesting video, I want to do this in a ceiling in my house. Thank you.
He explained the original ceiling, below the existing tile, was boards. So they could shoot nails anywhere.
@@maddierosemusic Thank you for the reply!
Thanks! Great job as usual.
What is the name of that measuring tool your using?
You switched from your Milwaukee 18g too a metabo. Is there any reason why
Ten years from now everybody is going to be putting in the hot new thing…..popcorn ceilings.
Except they will somehow be far more expensive.
I did a popcorn ceiling removal. I shot water on the ceiling to soften it up. I know it's messy but it didn't matter because the apartment was basically gutted.
Once that was done, I skimmed the ceiling, then shot texture to give it a new look.
Yup, I don't think one is putting this bead board on top of random popcorn - at least I would do what you say.
@@maddierosemusicyou could do either. Just different options.
I have an old 4 bedroom house and every ceiling has popcorn. I hate it but it’s such a mess to remove and I have a lot to remove. I’m thinking about covering up because it would be less messy
What is the green rail gun your using
I was starting to ask about joist just as you answered my question.
Setting up the circle saw with the track seems like a huge time saver from walking back and forth, into and out of the install space to the garage, driveway or other area where a miter saw station might be set up. That’s a heck of an idea.
It's common sense bro. Any job site you work is gonna do that unless there idiots who are charging per hour.
@@mrjacktraeger well, I’m glad I finally found the person in the world who knows everything. I knew you had to exist. Although, you should know, there are other people out there trying to steal your identity. As they also claim to know it all.
@@mrjacktraegerwhen trying to call someone an idiot, don’t say “there idiots”. Look smart and say “they’re idiots” 😂😂😂
Its a mafell made idea and they use it for most of their circ saws up to 85 mm, it works great. They also have a small one for thin boards, extremely light and accurate.
Tongue n groove ceilings are nice
Most low skill import labor homes are not that square.. Them boys back in the day had skill and pride something very lacking today
What are nails catching just ceiling tile and drywall?
I imagine the hardest part is making sure that first piece is absolutely straight. Any variance would compound the further you go and look obvious, no?
Looks great.
I'm considering installing on my wall papered walls..
What do you do if you have concrete ceilings & popcorn
@Benmeghei1 * some popcorn ceilings are asbestos. 😢
Beadboard ceilings, just like any plank ceilings, only work if the ceilings are high.
Love your show
Isn't it better to bevel the cuts where the boards join?
A lot of that old 12”x12” concealed spine ceiling tile had significant asbestos, it might be ok to just cover it with the new material, but some jurisdictions may require remediation. Check with local codes, or take a sample to have tested.
Yeah, let’s turn a $5000 job into a $35,000 job
Those old ceiling tiles are actually insulation! Good job leaving them all! Beautiful job
I like the look
I'm eating a fortune cookie as I'm watching this...' YOU WILL BE INSPIRED TO CREATE YOUR MASTERPIECE TODAY' ... lol we have those sagging square tiles in our 100 yr old rental house.
I’m not sure why you wouldn’t continue the boards to the wall even above the cabinets. At some point the cabinets may be taken out and then you’re left with a section missing.
If the joints are tight, once it is painted they will be barely noticeable if at all, probably not at all if they do two coats of paint.