Even after watching this video I was dreading doing the job, but Ford’s solution is to replace the entire motor and cable assembly. $850.00 for that part and and likely others, and probably stupid labor expense convinced me to do it myself. Took me less than 2 hours and your instructions were on-point. Thanks!
Awesome video! I followed each step and you made it very easy to follow. The only addition to this would be loosen the nuts to the left of both holes that need to be drilled. Then use a flat head screwdriver to create a wedge between the head of the screw and the drill bit to ensure you don't damage the screw head. I was not as lucky and had to also replace the motor assembly. That was fairly straight forward.
I'm glad this was helpful for you. I honestly wish i could have done better with the video but, sometimes I needed both hands. I didnt pre-plan this as you can tell i already had the seat down and cover removed. Also it was taking a long time to do while making the video.
Hi Roy. That can be a mess sometimes. I've been there several times, more than I care to remember. I've changed just window regulators on just about all makes and models. Some are fairly easy, some you hope you never do another one. Take care bud! Great informative video!
Roy. Good video. Helping a buddy out with this issue over Christmas. When you took the entire motor assembly off. Did you have a hand unspooling the cable ? Also. Was there a point you wished you would’ve bought a new one ? Just wondering. Thanks
Yea I did, my son helped me. trying to spool it it back where it matches the window position was tricky. So, once i figured out how it works, i had the window fully closed and spooled the cable to match. it will be tight to do but do able. Had i wshed i bought a new window instead? Absolutely NOT. not for the price. Also recommend getting a spot weld removal drill bit or put a small piece of metal between cab and screw head before drilling. Thats so you can access the screw heads that i talk about. Just remember, if someone was able to put it together at the factory, then with time and patients you can do it also. Have a wonderful.
Just picked up a 2014, window sounds a bit "dry or gritty", gonna get some sprayable lithium grease for the tracks like I did with a Saturn that was fouled up 11yrs ago. Should be a listed maintenance item. I've always lubed up power windows, same thing.
Hope I don't have to go thru that but thanks for a really good video. Gonna lube mine up tomorrow, the defogger isn't working but I can probably live without it even tho I'm proficient with silver soldering, according to some shatters the glass! Did after market add ons, alarms, stereos, cruise controls...and repairs for dealers yrs ago, it can be really tedious, foreign cars sucked!!!
Hi Roy Just ran across your video. I have a question you may or may not be able to answer. My 2013 F-150 has this window. My question is, if the window opens real slow....very slow, would you have a suggestion what it may be? It closes as should. It's really straining on open though. Thank you in advance. Wes
@@RoysAdventures1 I did fortunately. Another fortunate situation, AC was low on freon. Had it checked by ac technician. He diagnosed a leaking condenser. $1,100 repair. After probing around myself afterwards I found it was a $6.00 Schrader valve 😡. Fixed it myself for $36.00.
If I remove the entire rear glass assembly will it make replacing the guide tab easy? My rear window is leaking so it needs to come out and get resealed anyway. Thanks for the video.
even if you took the back window out, the broke piece is part of the window frame so, it would still be a hassle to get the slider in. The window and frame are all one piece that's why the dealer charges so much because they just replace the whole window with motor and cable assembly.
I've looking for information or videos what show how the window is connected to the slider. Someone before I bought it disconnected that and now the the motor runs but does not open or close the window
There is an small piece of aluminum what I don't understand where should be colocating. I have watched your videos but nothing look familiar for my case. Please if you can help me that will be fantastic
@@platasdg3857 I'm sorry, I'm not sure how its connected on the 1992 F250 model. I can say that, if the motor has been operated with the cables disconnected, then its likely the cable has become un-spooled. you would have to remove the panel to get access to the motor and spool assembly. Then have someone operate the motor for a seconded to determine how it spools. Once that is determined you would have to find a way to wrap or spool the cables back on. it also helps to determine the position of the cables when its in the closed and open position. In theory; as one cables pulls, the opposite cable should push. Sorry, thats the best i can explain it. if go to 6:40 in the video you ca see how the cables are connected to the slider. Hope this helps.
I used this one: www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-filler-4l3z15422b68aa?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9Z2xhc3MtYW5kLWhhcmR3YXJlLWJhY2smbD0zJm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9Zm9yZCZvPWYtMTUwJnk9MjAwNiZ0PWxhcmlhdCZlPTUtNGwtdjgtZ2Fz
even though this part is for a 2004 to 2008 someone in the forums said it worked for his truck, so i tried it on mine and my truck is a 2014. It fit perfectly. Shipping was like $12, more than the part cost
I did for awhile but, you could easliy push it open from outside, yea i could have blocked it with something but, i like to use sometimes and was afraid someone could break in that way. it stayed liked that for a bout a year i think and i do live in Vegas.
Even after watching this video I was dreading doing the job, but Ford’s solution is to replace the entire motor and cable assembly. $850.00 for that part and and likely others, and probably stupid labor expense convinced me to do it myself. Took me less than 2 hours and your instructions were on-point. Thanks!
Awesome video! I followed each step and you made it very easy to follow. The only addition to this would be loosen the nuts to the left of both holes that need to be drilled. Then use a flat head screwdriver to create a wedge between the head of the screw and the drill bit to ensure you don't damage the screw head. I was not as lucky and had to also replace the motor assembly. That was fairly straight forward.
I'm glad this was helpful for you. I honestly wish i could have done better with the video but, sometimes I needed both hands. I didnt pre-plan this as you can tell i already had the seat down and cover removed. Also it was taking a long time to do while making the video.
Hi Roy. That can be a mess sometimes. I've been there several times, more than I care to remember. I've changed just window regulators on just about all makes and models. Some are fairly easy, some you hope you never do another one. Take care bud! Great informative video!
Thanks for the video. Saved me a ton of time trying to figure this problem out. 👍🏻
I'm glad it helped. if you have any questions let me know and I'll get back to you soon as I can.
Nathan, It's listed in the description above: Window guide part
Roy. Good video. Helping a buddy out with this issue over Christmas. When you took the entire motor assembly off. Did you have a hand unspooling the cable ? Also. Was there a point you wished you would’ve bought a new one ? Just wondering. Thanks
Yea I did, my son helped me. trying to spool it it back where it matches the window position was tricky. So, once i figured out how it works, i had the window fully closed and spooled the cable to match. it will be tight to do but do able. Had i wshed i bought a new window instead? Absolutely NOT. not for the price. Also recommend getting a spot weld removal drill bit or put a small piece of metal between cab and screw head before drilling. Thats so you can access the screw heads that i talk about. Just remember, if someone was able to put it together at the factory, then with time and patients you can do it also. Have a wonderful.
@artmartinez854 let me know how it turns out
Appreciate the response. Thanks again. I’ll keep you posted.
Thank you, great info, will get to it soon!
Muchas gracias. Gracias a tu información pude reparar mi ventana. muchas gracias amigo
Just picked up a 2014, window sounds a bit "dry or gritty", gonna get some sprayable lithium grease for the tracks like I did with a Saturn that was fouled up 11yrs ago. Should be a listed maintenance item. I've always lubed up power windows, same thing.
Hope I don't have to go thru that but thanks for a really good video. Gonna lube mine up tomorrow, the defogger isn't working but I can probably live without it even tho I'm proficient with silver soldering, according to some shatters the glass! Did after market add ons, alarms, stereos, cruise controls...and repairs for dealers yrs ago, it can be really tedious, foreign cars sucked!!!
When this broke on your truck did the window open but not close? That’s the issue with mine and I’m hoping this is the solution
at first it did, but if you pull down the back seat and remove the back panel you can see the cable and spool to see what's going on.
@@RoysAdventures1 I removed it and saw both cables moved the way that they should
@@cooperb252 what about the cable tabs where it attaches to the window slider? Mine was broke on one side, thats what caused my problems
I can see that my cable has popped out on the side to close window. Im not sure if i can just push it back in or if there is a piece missing.
@@nickschmidt6you can just push it back in. Tip of head goes in first then the cable falls right in
Hi Roy
Just ran across your video. I have a question you may or may not be able to answer. My 2013 F-150 has this window. My question is, if the window opens real slow....very slow, would you have a suggestion what it may be? It closes as should. It's really straining on open though. Thank you in advance. Wes
pull down the seat back and remove the interior panel and try to see of the cable is binding or off the spool at the motor. Maybe
@@RoysAdventures1
Found the issue. Top track was dirty.
@marrowsteven, cool, you got off easy I'd say. 😎
@@RoysAdventures1 I did fortunately. Another fortunate situation, AC was low on freon. Had it checked by ac technician. He diagnosed a leaking condenser. $1,100 repair. After probing around myself afterwards I found it was a $6.00 Schrader valve 😡. Fixed it myself for $36.00.
@@marrowsteven holy crap
If I remove the entire rear glass assembly will it make replacing the guide tab easy? My rear window is leaking so it needs to come out and get resealed anyway. Thanks for the video.
I suppose so. cause you wouldn't have to worry about drilling out spot welds to get to the retaing screws.
Great video! Where did you find the guide? I'm having trouble locating one.
In the description
Where did you buy it? I know where it's located on the truck. LOL!
@@teriarrasmith1123 www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-filler-4l3z15422b68aa?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9Z2xhc3MtYW5kLWhhcmR3YXJlLWJhY2smbD0zJm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9Zm9yZCZvPWYtMTUwJnk9MjAwNiZ0PWxhcmlhdCZlPTUtNGwtdjgtZ2Fz
@@teriarrasmith1123 all the links are listed in the video description
Whats the part number or where do i get the track
its in the discription
I think it easier if you took the whole back window off
But it will make you to replace the rear rubber seal to get it out
even if you took the back window out, the broke piece is part of the window frame so, it would still be a hassle to get the slider in. The window and frame are all one piece that's why the dealer charges so much because they just replace the whole window with motor and cable assembly.
Are 2014 f250 the same as this?
@matt I don't know.....sorry
Hello, sir. Am from Mexico and have a question about a rear window of a Ford F250 1992. Can you help me, please?
Maybe I can help not sure
I've looking for information or videos what show how the window is connected to the slider. Someone before I bought it disconnected that and now the
the motor runs but does not open or close the window
There is an small piece of aluminum what I don't understand where should be colocating.
I have watched your videos but nothing look familiar for my case.
Please if you can help me that will be fantastic
@@platasdg3857 I'm sorry, I'm not sure how its connected on the 1992 F250 model. I can say that, if the motor has been operated with the cables disconnected, then its likely the cable has become un-spooled. you would have to remove the panel to get access to the motor and spool assembly. Then have someone operate the motor for a seconded to determine how it spools. Once that is determined you would have to find a way to wrap or spool the cables back on. it also helps to determine the position of the cables when its in the closed and open position. In theory; as one cables pulls, the opposite cable should push. Sorry, thats the best i can explain it. if go to 6:40 in the video you ca see how the cables are connected to the slider. Hope this helps.
Where did you get the plastic track and what was the part number?
I used this one: www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-filler-4l3z15422b68aa?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9Z2xhc3MtYW5kLWhhcmR3YXJlLWJhY2smbD0zJm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9Zm9yZCZvPWYtMTUwJnk9MjAwNiZ0PWxhcmlhdCZlPTUtNGwtdjgtZ2Fz
even though this part is for a 2004 to 2008 someone in the forums said it worked for his truck, so i tried it on mine and my truck is a 2014. It fit perfectly. Shipping was like $12, more than the part cost
great stuff ! how do you put the top plastic track guide thing back on top ?
Good grief. That looks like a challenging process.
a little bit, specially trying to respool the cables correctly
I rather leave the window broke...
I did for awhile but, you could easliy push it open from outside, yea i could have blocked it with something but, i like to use sometimes and was afraid someone could break in that way. it stayed liked that for a bout a year i think and i do live in Vegas.