Screen printed, then tampo pad printed and later screen printed and then water slide decals. MicroScale decal makes some waterslide decal liquids. One preps the decal. Another remove bubbles, folds & alligatoring. Another liquid softens the decal so it sucks down over any details (model building {railroad}), and then there is a shine remover that flats the waterslide part down to a flat super low gloss satin.
I sincerely hope that you make enough money from this passion for excellence that you can live at least comfortably. Too many times craftsmanship never gets appreciated. Your skill level exceeds your years. Keep on educating us, really appreciate all you do!
Really nice work on that old barn job. Concerning decals, there is a product that I use called Micro Scale Decal Set. It’s a decal solvent that allows the decals to “melt in “ to a surface that is less than perfectly smooth and flat. I’m sure you’ve experienced that “silvering “ effect that happens when you apply decals onto an airplane kit that has molded-in detail like panels or rivet heads. Decal Set basically turns the decal into something like paint that conforms to just about any surface, no matter how uneven it is. I’ve never used lacquer over a decal after melting it with Decal Set, so I’d try it out on scrap first with an extra decal. I’ve built over one hundred miniature model ships and Decal Set has never let me down. And I never touch decals with my fingers. I wet the surface first with plain water before application and use a wet cotton swab to position the decal. The wetter the surface the more easy it is to reposition the decal. Once more, I know this was posted a year ago, but I hope your health issues are satisfactorily resolved. I know from my own experience that there are some things that you just have to compensate for and learn to live with. Best wishes from south of the border!
FYI: You can add water with a brush to the edge to refloat the decal to move into position. Then lightly touch the decal edge with a tissue to remove access water trough capillary action, then leave it alone overnight. Allow 24hrs. before a clear over spray. To use old decals, spray a clear before wetting decal to seal decal film in place. Then cutout decal to shape or close to lettering, then dip in warm water to set, Good Luck. Nice woodworking work!
About 35 years ago, my Father-in-Law bought a small pick-up with TONS of musical stuff in it. One of the things that was in the “pile” of stuff, ended up being a Gibson Les Paul Jr. He thought it was a kid’s 6-string. At the time, I had never heard of the Jr. Model either!! The family found out it was worth quite a bit AFTER he had passed!! Not to mention about 40 other stringed instruments as well!! I will see if I can find the original appraisals in a few days. They were appraised in 2001 in Nashville but only 30 were taken down there for that operation!! It was sure fun!! Thanks so much for sharing your fine talents to the world My Friend!!
My Son and I did a restoration of a 58 Junior. Too many details for a post, but this video contained a lot of what we did. The original owner had sanded the area where the arm rests like a Strat, so that had to be squared up with some unique techniques. Refret, a few dots replaced etc. An amazing guitar. Thanks for ALL your videos. They are always a pleasure to watch and Ive learned a plethora of smarts from you.
I was botn in 1956 too- but i get a lot from you Ted and your humour. I get your festidiousness, as an original pot can cost hundreds of $$$s. Also your going for a very old Gibson. I used to have to sing in bands as guys thought my voice was more than okay. I hated the role but insusted on a guitar , which I could play, as a sheild between me and audiences. Finally ,in the 80s I got to just play guitar: recording ,collaborating in bands etc. That was more fun than being a front man- that's for others, not me. Always learn from your videos. Thanks Ted .
A small tip. If you think of the earth cable as a drain pipe, then a drain pipe is sized to get rid of the volume of water that will pass through it. An earth cable operates on the same principle draining electro magnetic generated energy. Therefore it is imperative that the earthing cable has as big a cross section as possible and is connected directly to the output jack, ensuring a direct path to earth. I use 2.5mm desoldering braid, covered in an isolating sleeve, connected between the string posts/tremolo or tailpiece and the output jack. This optimises the Faraday cage effect of the strings. This effect is something that has always been underestimated in the industry. Thanks for the inspirational and informative videos.👍
@@Dustin2112 This ground wire has nothing to do with the pickup signal. It is only there to conduct electromagnetic energy picked up by the metal components. It works like an aerial diverting energy directly to the jack socket preventing it reaching the pickup.
Cool, I used a thick piece of pure copper on my fancy pots and pickups, just one long piece connecting all the pots. Mainly because I hsd it lying around. Guitar sounds great but I suspect it's the new pickups. I don't think it matters, it would really have to be a crappy tiny cable to not be sufficient, dunno I didn't finish my physics education but I don't remember anything about that other than standard stuff like the cable should be avle to carry the load but anything will do for such tiny currents.
I too have ruined decals by futzing with them too long after placing them. At least you learned after your first mistake-I've had to take as many as six attempts to get a decal right. It's nice to know I'm not the only one that finds them frustrating to place.
Being mainly a Fender / G&L type guitar guy, it's never been easy to admit, one of my favourite guitars ever was my buddy's '56 Special. So now I'm off to enjoy some Leslie West with very fond memories of times past. Thanks for everything Ted.
I spent my entire childhood installing decals. I became great at it. I found a way to move them after they started the adhering process. Danged if I can remember now.
9:20 In model railroading, we use Microscale Micro Set to extend the "working time" of decals. If supposedly also helps with adherence. They also make Liquid Decal Film which can be useful for refreshing old dried-out decals.
I'm still looking for someone who can make my own decals for me. So far only garbage found which is not visible on dark surfaces and then the quality. Thanks to your videos. I've already learned a lot. You're doing great. Thanks. Greetings from Germany 🔥🙌🤘
Love your channel! You can contact the shipping company and have them email you the documents and you take them into a CBSA and pay any applicable tax owed CRA. You then scan the document given you by the CBSA and send it back to the shipper. YOU!! have a legal right to clear your own packages!!! I have had to pay brokerage fees in the past and it Pist me off so bad that I did my research and this is what I do for all of my packages coming in from the USA, If it is $10 or so I may not bother and just pay it. But not for that much. Now I know some of us do not have an office that is close to there location and that can be an obstacle. Hope you and everyone else on here can save some money. B
I modded my 2016 LPjr and to backdate the Les Paul 100 i acquired a mask I found on eBay. We used a gold paint rattle can and it turned out perfectly. No shadow lines from a decal. I’m extremely happy with how it turned out.
I worked for a Canada based company at one of their facilities in the US. To bring a part into Canada for their engineers to examine for the complaints I had about their design required much money and paperwork to get across the border. It was a $400 electronic part. To return it back to the US was cheaper but was more paperwork and we were just simply done with the whole import export thing. So once the Canadian engineers had examined it we just threw it away. $400 electronic parts were regularly being thrown into the dumpster at the hotel. NAFTA made the transfer from Canada to the US much easier but it was like nothing had changed for the US to Canada transfer. I think Canada pretty much ignored their part of NAFTA.
In the 70's Gibson Dealers could order everything - decals, truss rod covers, personalized truss rod covers, poker chips, switch tips, pickguards, pick up covers and on and on and on.If they had rare new old stock stuff in stock they sold it to Dealers for CHUMP CHANGE.
I love how a properly worked on guitar by a real luthier always means a well tuned, nice sounding guitar lol...I learned a lot doing guitar setups with the late Buddy Blaze, so I appreciate the great work you do on this channel in making guitars sound the best they can be!!
I bought one for $100 in an anniversary case. The case was listed for $100, I offered $75 and the lady accepted. When I showed up to pick it up, she asked if I'd pay $100 and she'd give me the les paul junior that was stripped and in the case. The p-90 had no wires in it so it needs that, a new control cover and a pickguard. The person who had it before, (her uncle) totally trashed it. He had painted the Kluson deluxe tuners silver. (everything) He also pained the bridge, and wow, what a mess he made of the headstock. Decals on the way, I was gonna paint it gold (its a 2015 so not vintage) Just saw a natural version that was sold on the Gibson Mod shop for $2k. I'm gonna go with that.
Another old fella lives to fight another day, great work. Thanks for taking time to share. 👍👍🥃Respect to you mate. Ever try semi chrome for light buffing??
Sorry, Im late to the party. I've only just subscribed. Thank you for the education and the nod to the linguistic anomalies we share and don't share here in the UK. Whatever way you talk it'll be wrong somewhere on the planet! Thanks again. ✌️❤️🤗
Happy and healthy holidays to you and yours, Ted. Thank you for the wonderful, interesting and educational videos. I hope to be a patreon supporter in 2025. 👍👍
I know this is an old video, but... maybe it will be useful to you Tom (or to other people fighting with decals): there's special products in the hobby models world (might be a relatively recent development?) generically called "Decal Softer" and "Decal Setter". One (the setter) helps the decal to stick, but for something you'll cover with a pretty thick gloss protective layer it's probably not relevant (unlike on some models). But the other, the Softer, *might* help some times. It's a very, very delicate solvent that will soften the decal slightly, to make it adapt even more perfectly to the surface underneath (it's used for decals that go over airplane panel lines, for example). While it's working it can make a big decal look crinkly and give you a heart attack though, so... if you decide to try one, check a few howto videos 😀
Regarding the replacement bridge, for something that expensive, stainless threaded inserts (Helicoil, Recoil type things) would be a nice feature for those intonation screws.
These video's are a true joy to watch. I'm fascinated by your craftsmanship, it almost seems like magic to me. 21:38 It's aluminium to everybody outside of North America. It has a more sophisticated ring to the name. This does the element which was very rare and more valuable than gold at some time in history more justice in my opinion.
the best waterslides I ever got were from a Canadian named Jean Luc who went under the name Factory Guy. I was importing lots of Japanese guitars and many had the logos removed because they all wanted a Fender/Gibson. He mande me some Fernandes, Greco and Tokai waterslides that were perfect. You are right, it's hard to describe just how thin and fiddly a good waterslide is. Thanks for another fab video, I'm addicted to this channel
Totally agree - the world and the internet are so loud and shouty. It's relaxing to just listen to the voiceover from Ted as he works with wood, tools and paint to make guitars happy again 😎
Beautiful attention to detail & workmanship! With regards to the positioning of the decals, I have a 1974 Telecaster & have noticed that pretty much every headstock from that era appears to have the decals placed slightly differently!😀
Great workmanship Ted and your attention to detail is astonishing, I am always amazed at the lengths you go to to get it right ! That headstock looks too good for an old guitar but I'm very happy to see that you didn't attempt to make it look old, it tells it's own story which is part of the guitars history and that is far more important and relevant than fake relicing !
Your comments on “relicing” are spot on. Authenticity and subtle changes are of up most importance. I’ve seen so many hack jobs, including a lot of stuff done by the Fender Custom Shop, that just looks like someone took a claw hammer to a new guitar with no thought given as to what might have realistically happened to the guitar to cause those scrapes, scratches, wear, etc. OK, you’re near the output jack, and over years of playing, it is possible the artist, missed the hole a few times and marred the finish with the 1/4” plug. But hacking at it with a giant phillips screw driver, to the point of removing wood chunks, is ridiculous. It just wouldn’t happen.
@@John-d9e4x can’t disagree with that. It’s like paying more money for already ripped jeans. Now, I don’t personally have an issue with pre-washed jeans….in this metaphor, the equivalent of light, tasteful, and realistic relicing, if that’s what a person wants, but I’d never pay thousands of dollars more for it. I love Fender, but they’ve somehow convinced a large sector of their clients that “vintage” mean beat to hell and “custom shop” means built to hell a little different from the other guitars they beat to hell. I don’t get it, but people must be buying it. Nuts really.
Excellent workmanship. Great attention to detail. Makes me want to take up fixing guitars! I do have some slight experience.... Well, I carved a new bridge & replaced a cracked one in a friend's acoustic guitar (possibly a Martin), about 40 years ago. In the process, I made it play much better, too! The action was certainly better, and intonation was spot on (i used the same saddle). But, i have to say in retrospect, i used "cave man" techniques and got really lucky. I carved it by hand, though i did get a block of dark hardwood and some tips from an actual Luthier ahead of time. But I've learned so much in the meantime! Plus, I've had a lifetime of experience in doing delicate work. So, i might give it a try! (Maybe after my wife retires in a few years, and we move someplace where i have space for a shop.) Great video, good project. Learned a lot. 👍 👌
One thing I’ve noticed about the reproduction decals is out there is the Junior text is larger than the original text, at least with respect to my ‘56 Junior that is roughly 30% smaller. Excellent work young man.
I stopped using water slide decals for pedals and use vinyl printer paper instead and it's way easier and super durable. Sadly it's not suitable for a headstock cause it's far too thick so for headstocks i still do water slides that I make myself with inkscape. But they are one of my least favorite things to do in the world. But when they do come out right it's very satisfying. I couldnt imagine trying to get it right with one or two decals. On average to get a useable decal I print 10 and of that around 8 are usable and to get a good even application I use about 5 of them and still feel like it's not as good as it could be. It's a perfect example of when "the enemy of good enough is better". But I have to say this decal came out great Ted, your experience and cool head shows.
You should look into some supplies called micro sol and micro set for decals. They're used in the miniature hobby and are apparently THE SECRET to applying decals without tearing them etc etc
As a model maker, I found the water slide decal segment hard to watch 🤣 Unless you work with them frequently, they can be very fiddly. If you break the surface tension, by brushing on Microset first, you can move very large decals, for quite some time, relative to how fast it dries. Wrinkles and shrinkage can be removed, after it dries, with one, sometimes multiple passes with microsol, and a damp q-tip, rolling it across the decal, between your fingers. Great job though. Everything turned out great
Great work as always! What I found was that most of the reputable replica builders agree on is that de Gibson logo was a decal (or inlay on standards) and got covered with clear coats but that the script was silkscreened on after finishing. That's why G logo is mostly protected and you can see the cracks in the clear over them while the script paint is exposed and wears much more easily.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I was born in 1956 and when you said this guitar was almost 70 years old I had a brief existential crisis. I'm good now. :)
This guitar is older than my dad
Haha! I know what you mean😂
Yeah the 90’s was still ‘the other day’ in my conversations
"Aint nothing to it but to do it homie!" LOL that was hilarious
These videos are therapeutic
Congrats on 100k!
Screen printed, then tampo pad printed and later screen printed and then water slide decals. MicroScale decal makes some waterslide decal liquids. One preps the decal. Another remove bubbles, folds & alligatoring. Another liquid softens the decal so it sucks down over any details (model building {railroad}), and then there is a shine remover that flats the waterslide part down to a flat super low gloss satin.
I sincerely hope that you make enough money from this passion for excellence that you can live at least comfortably. Too many times craftsmanship never gets appreciated. Your skill level exceeds your years. Keep on educating us, really appreciate all you do!
Really nice work on that old barn job. Concerning decals, there is a product that I use called Micro Scale Decal Set. It’s a decal solvent that allows the decals to “melt in “ to a surface that is less than perfectly smooth and flat. I’m sure you’ve experienced that “silvering “ effect that happens when you apply decals onto an airplane kit that has molded-in detail like panels or rivet heads. Decal Set basically turns the decal into something like paint that conforms to just about any surface, no matter how uneven it is. I’ve never used lacquer over a decal after melting it with Decal Set, so I’d try it out on scrap first with an extra decal.
I’ve built over one hundred miniature model ships and Decal Set has never let me down. And I never touch decals with my fingers. I wet the surface first with plain water before application and use a wet cotton swab to position the decal. The wetter the surface the more easy it is to reposition the decal.
Once more, I know this was posted a year ago, but I hope your health issues are satisfactorily resolved. I know from my own experience that there are some things that you just have to compensate for and learn to live with. Best wishes from south of the border!
😊
FYI: You can add water with a brush to the edge to refloat the decal to move into position. Then lightly touch the decal edge with a tissue to remove access water trough capillary action, then leave it alone overnight. Allow 24hrs. before a clear over spray. To use old decals, spray a clear before wetting decal to seal decal film in place. Then cutout decal to shape or close to lettering, then dip in warm water to set, Good Luck.
Nice woodworking work!
Once you had applied the second decal, I found myself reassuring my computer screen, "leave it alone, it's fine, leave it alone." 😆
Wow! That headstock looks fantastic, Ted! 😯👌👍👍
About 35 years ago, my Father-in-Law bought a small pick-up with TONS of musical stuff in it. One of the things that was in the “pile” of stuff, ended up being a Gibson Les Paul Jr. He thought it was a kid’s 6-string. At the time, I had never heard of the Jr. Model either!! The family found out it was worth quite a bit AFTER he had passed!! Not to mention about 40 other stringed instruments as well!!
I will see if I can find the original appraisals in a few days. They were appraised in 2001 in Nashville but only 30 were taken down there for that operation!! It was sure fun!!
Thanks so much for sharing your fine talents to the world My Friend!!
"Oh, fiddlesticks!"
Hahahahahahaaaha!
I like your brain, Sir, may God bless your soul!
My Son and I did a restoration of a 58 Junior. Too many details for a post, but this video contained a lot of what we did. The original owner had sanded the area where the arm rests like a Strat, so that had to be squared up with some unique techniques. Refret, a few dots replaced etc. An amazing guitar. Thanks for ALL your videos. They are always a pleasure to watch and Ive learned a plethora of smarts from you.
I was botn in 1956 too- but i get a lot from you Ted and your humour. I get your festidiousness, as an original pot can cost hundreds of $$$s. Also your going for a very old Gibson. I used to have to sing in bands as guys thought my voice was more than okay. I hated the role but insusted on a guitar , which I could play, as a sheild between me and audiences. Finally ,in the 80s I got to just play guitar: recording ,collaborating in bands etc. That was more fun than being a front man- that's for others, not me. Always learn from your videos. Thanks Ted .
Ah, one of my favorite Aristophanes quotes. Though, think he’s better known for “say it, don’t spray it.”
You’re a gentleman and a scholar, kind sir.
A small tip. If you think of the earth cable as a drain pipe, then a drain pipe is sized to get rid of the volume of water that will pass through it. An earth cable operates on the same principle draining electro magnetic generated energy. Therefore it is imperative that the earthing cable has as big a cross section as possible and is connected directly to the output jack, ensuring a direct path to earth. I use 2.5mm desoldering braid, covered in an isolating sleeve, connected between the string posts/tremolo or tailpiece and the output jack. This optimises the Faraday cage effect of the strings. This effect is something that has always been underestimated in the industry. Thanks for the inspirational and informative videos.👍
Because 100mv needs extra large conductors to flow easily to ground.
@@Dustin2112 This ground wire has nothing to do with the pickup signal. It is only there to conduct electromagnetic energy picked up by the metal components. It works like an aerial diverting energy directly to the jack socket preventing it reaching the pickup.
Cool, I used a thick piece of pure copper on my fancy pots and pickups, just one long piece connecting all the pots. Mainly because I hsd it lying around. Guitar sounds great but I suspect it's the new pickups. I don't think it matters, it would really have to be a crappy tiny cable to not be sufficient, dunno I didn't finish my physics education but I don't remember anything about that other than standard stuff like the cable should be avle to carry the load but anything will do for such tiny currents.
I love my Music City LP Jr bridge! Good choice.
Second time I’ve watched this one. Not that it matters what I think, but you did great.
I too have ruined decals by futzing with them too long after placing them. At least you learned after your first mistake-I've had to take as many as six attempts to get a decal right. It's nice to know I'm not the only one that finds them frustrating to place.
Outstanding meticulous love and skill poured into that Junior! 🫡
Have enjoyed hours of your dulcet tones. Will enjoy explaining your t-shirt in Perth, Western Australia.
Just bought a T shirt and a sticker, you truly are the Bob Ross of guitar repair!
Where do you buy the merch?
@@srt8speed There's a link in the description of the video!
Ted is an artist. Nothing to do with Bob Ross
Bob Ross was a great artist and not a pompous ass.
Being mainly a Fender / G&L type guitar guy, it's never been easy to admit, one of my favourite guitars ever was my buddy's '56 Special. So now I'm off to enjoy some Leslie West with very fond memories of times past. Thanks for everything Ted.
Polishing....polishing....polishing..... @15:15 . Nailed it!
I spent my entire childhood installing decals. I became great at it. I found a way to move them after they started the adhering process. Danged if I can remember now.
3rd time I've enjoyed these two videos.
Learned something new each time. Thanks Ted.
Well as these nice old Gibsons & Fender guitars get a long in age they start looking way cooler than some of the other choices !
9:20 In model railroading, we use Microscale Micro Set to extend the "working time" of decals. If supposedly also helps with adherence. They also make Liquid Decal Film which can be useful for refreshing old dried-out decals.
I'm still looking for someone who can make my own decals for me. So far only garbage found which is not visible on dark surfaces and then the quality. Thanks to your videos. I've already learned a lot. You're doing great. Thanks. Greetings from Germany 🔥🙌🤘
Love your channel! You can contact the shipping company and have them email you the documents and you take them into a CBSA and pay any applicable tax owed CRA. You then scan the document given you by the CBSA and send it back to the shipper. YOU!! have a legal right to clear your own packages!!!
I have had to pay brokerage fees in the past and it Pist me off so bad that I did my research and this is what I do for all of my packages coming in from the USA, If it is $10 or so I may not bother and just pay it. But not for that much.
Now I know some of us do not have an office that is close to there location and that can be an obstacle.
Hope you and everyone else on here can save some money.
B
I modded my 2016 LPjr and to backdate the Les Paul 100 i acquired a mask I found on eBay. We used a gold paint rattle can and it turned out perfectly. No shadow lines from a decal. I’m extremely happy with how it turned out.
I get so relaxed watching these.
I really enjoyed watching this (both parts), all the way through. I always learn new tips and tricks when I watch your videos. Thank you! 🙏
This two videos were truly amazing, thanks for sharing them
Hurts to be a perfectionist and trying to make yourself stop while you know it could still look somewhat better 🤣. Looks great Ted !!!
I saw "people of the future" on their "rare and necessary resources" tour in 1992. Awesome show.
Ted, don't let yourself believe you don't give good service. You are fantastic.
Outstanding workmanship and attention to detail as usual, cracking job.
I worked for a Canada based company at one of their facilities in the US. To bring a part into Canada for their engineers to examine for the complaints I had about their design required much money and paperwork to get across the border. It was a $400 electronic part. To return it back to the US was cheaper but was more paperwork and we were just simply done with the whole import export thing. So once the Canadian engineers had examined it we just threw it away. $400 electronic parts were regularly being thrown into the dumpster at the hotel. NAFTA made the transfer from Canada to the US much easier but it was like nothing had changed for the US to Canada transfer. I think Canada pretty much ignored their part of NAFTA.
Of all the youtube channels i watch of all subjects im into, Your channel and videos are mu absolute favorite.
Thanks for playing them for us Ted.
In the 70's Gibson Dealers could order everything - decals, truss rod covers, personalized truss rod covers, poker chips, switch tips, pickguards, pick up covers and on and on and on.If they had rare new old stock stuff in stock they sold it to Dealers for CHUMP CHANGE.
Beautiful job Ted, wanna tell you how much I look forward to your content! I learn a lot in a no BS way. So thank you from Connecticut!
New Milford here
From up the road a bit, Rhode Island, although I did live there for a decade (Lisbon) and worked in Groton a couple of decades earlier.
The amount of patience that you have is astounding....! I could never do that!
I love how a properly worked on guitar by a real luthier always means a well tuned, nice sounding guitar lol...I learned a lot doing guitar setups with the late Buddy Blaze, so I appreciate the great work you do on this channel in making guitars sound the best they can be!!
I bought one for $100 in an anniversary case. The case was listed for $100, I offered $75 and the lady accepted. When I showed up to pick it up, she asked if I'd pay $100 and she'd give me the les paul junior that was stripped and in the case. The p-90 had no wires in it so it needs that, a new control cover and a pickguard. The person who had it before, (her uncle) totally trashed it. He had painted the Kluson deluxe tuners silver. (everything) He also pained the bridge, and wow, what a mess he made of the headstock. Decals on the way, I was gonna paint it gold (its a 2015 so not vintage) Just saw a natural version that was sold on the Gibson Mod shop for $2k. I'm gonna go with that.
Another old fella lives to fight another day, great work. Thanks for taking time to share. 👍👍🥃Respect to you mate. Ever try semi chrome for light buffing??
Sorry, Im late to the party. I've only just subscribed.
Thank you for the education and the nod to the linguistic anomalies we share and don't share here in the UK. Whatever way you talk it'll be wrong somewhere on the planet!
Thanks again.
✌️❤️🤗
You do beautiful work. It’s a real treat to watch.
It’s a long video, cup of coffee on the go, perfect timing.🙏🏻
Top job 💪👍
Happy and healthy holidays to you and yours, Ted. Thank you for the wonderful, interesting and educational videos. I hope to be a patreon supporter in 2025. 👍👍
Another outstanding job and video! From one of Tom Bukovac's videos, he had a big hand in designing the Music City products. Cheers my friend!
Best luthier channel on the ytube! Great guitar, great series!
Love your sense of humor man. 😂
I know this is an old video, but... maybe it will be useful to you Tom (or to other people fighting with decals): there's special products in the hobby models world (might be a relatively recent development?) generically called "Decal Softer" and "Decal Setter". One (the setter) helps the decal to stick, but for something you'll cover with a pretty thick gloss protective layer it's probably not relevant (unlike on some models). But the other, the Softer, *might* help some times.
It's a very, very delicate solvent that will soften the decal slightly, to make it adapt even more perfectly to the surface underneath (it's used for decals that go over airplane panel lines, for example). While it's working it can make a big decal look crinkly and give you a heart attack though, so... if you decide to try one, check a few howto videos 😀
Excellent as always :)
Regarding the replacement bridge, for something that expensive, stainless threaded inserts (Helicoil, Recoil type things) would be a nice feature for those intonation screws.
Very interesting video really enjoyed it I am always interested in guitar construction excellent 👌🤘😊👍🎸🎸🎸🎸🎸
These video's are a true joy to watch. I'm fascinated by your craftsmanship, it almost seems like magic to me.
21:38 It's aluminium to everybody outside of North America. It has a more sophisticated ring to the name. This does the element which was very rare and more valuable than gold at some time in history more justice in my opinion.
I found that a couple drops of glycerine in the warm water seems to give the decal a bit more "slip" when installing.
You were right about that P-90 buzz; yoicks! The guitar looks great, headstock crowns it nicely, it is once again a rock and roll machine!
Just get some Mr. Mark Setter & Softer for your decals. You can edit dried decals just fine. I use this for models.
Great job attention to detail was perfect.
The headstock turned out great! Looks fantastic
The LG 2 4:26 looks like a the decal I put on my SG. Bought it on Etsy about five years ago. Serious congrats on 100k subs.
Nicely Done 👍
the best waterslides I ever got were from a Canadian named Jean Luc who went under the name Factory Guy. I was importing lots of Japanese guitars and many had the logos removed because they all wanted a Fender/Gibson. He mande me some Fernandes, Greco and Tokai waterslides that were perfect. You are right, it's hard to describe just how thin and fiddly a good waterslide is. Thanks for another fab video, I'm addicted to this channel
Man, I needed this. ASMR today. I almost expected you to bust out a lullaby after mentioning your neighbors baby. Thanks for uploading Ted. God Bless.
Totally agree - the world and the internet are so loud and shouty. It's relaxing to just listen to the voiceover from Ted as he works with wood, tools and paint to make guitars happy again 😎
Beautiful attention to detail & workmanship! With regards to the positioning of the decals, I have a 1974 Telecaster & have noticed that pretty much every headstock from that era appears to have the decals placed slightly differently!😀
10:20 great comparison, I did the same research myself and never found any information online about the decal vertical position
world class repair approach 🙏 i've worked alongside some of the best in the biz and you rank right up there sir fantastic content, bravo.
Great workmanship Ted and your attention to detail is astonishing, I am always amazed at the lengths you go to to get it right !
That headstock looks too good for an old guitar but I'm very happy to see that you didn't attempt to make it look old, it tells it's own story which is part of the guitars history and that is far more important and relevant than fake relicing !
He not only deserves a medal, but a pocket full of them.
Your comments on “relicing” are spot on. Authenticity and subtle changes are of up most importance. I’ve seen so many hack jobs, including a lot of stuff done by the Fender Custom Shop, that just looks like someone took a claw hammer to a new guitar with no thought given as to what might have realistically happened to the guitar to cause those scrapes, scratches, wear, etc.
OK, you’re near the output jack, and over years of playing, it is possible the artist, missed the hole a few times and marred the finish with the 1/4” plug. But hacking at it with a giant phillips screw driver, to the point of removing wood chunks, is ridiculous. It just wouldn’t happen.
Relicing seems like the epitomy of yuppie values,
@@John-d9e4x can’t disagree with that. It’s like paying more money for already ripped jeans. Now, I don’t personally have an issue with pre-washed jeans….in this metaphor, the equivalent of light, tasteful, and realistic relicing, if that’s what a person wants, but I’d never pay thousands of dollars more for it.
I love Fender, but they’ve somehow convinced a large sector of their clients that “vintage” mean beat to hell and “custom shop” means built to hell a little different from the other guitars they beat to hell. I don’t get it, but people must be buying it. Nuts really.
I agree that the headstock looks fantastic, and it sounds like it should. Thank You Ted
I’m new to guitar repair and find your explanations super cool. You are definitely a master.
You did a great job on the decal . I modeled air planes they are very difficult to work with ! You got it Homie !
Oh fiddlesticks. I love it. I have a friend who sort of collects old timey sayings like this. I can't wait to lay this on him
The headstock looks brilliant!
Great looking headstock!
Thank you! The tip on the wraparound bridge is worth the cost of entry alone. Just about to finish a build with one.
Hey, congrats to 100 000 subscribers! Headstock turned out fine!
Nice! re decals, over here in Blighty we call them transfers or slides, short for the full-fat phrase, ‘water-slide transfer’, I suppose…
Nice work sir you just made sweet lemonade with a somewhat lemon.
Как всегда гениально!
Ohhh, waited so hard for pt.2.
Awsome work dude, awsome.
Great Rock'n'roll guitar! Amazing work as usual!
Glad I'm not the only one struggling with decals. I've been building guitar pedals and boy is it 'fun' to get those decals just right.
I so injoy watching the work you do and the home made tools that have a real hand feel not hydraulic
Excellent workmanship. Great attention to detail.
Makes me want to take up fixing guitars! I do have some slight experience....
Well, I carved a new bridge & replaced a cracked one in a friend's acoustic guitar (possibly a Martin), about 40 years ago. In the process, I made it play much better, too! The action was certainly better, and intonation was spot on (i used the same saddle).
But, i have to say in retrospect, i used "cave man" techniques and got really lucky. I carved it by hand, though i did get a block of dark hardwood and some tips from an actual Luthier ahead of time.
But I've learned so much in the meantime! Plus, I've had a lifetime of experience in doing delicate work.
So, i might give it a try!
(Maybe after my wife retires in a few years, and we move someplace where i have space for a shop.)
Great video, good project. Learned a lot.
👍 👌
One thing I’ve noticed about the reproduction decals is out there is the Junior text is larger than the original text, at least with respect to my ‘56 Junior that is roughly 30% smaller. Excellent work young man.
That guitar sounds quite nice. Good work!
I stopped using water slide decals for pedals and use vinyl printer paper instead and it's way easier and super durable. Sadly it's not suitable for a headstock cause it's far too thick so for headstocks i still do water slides that I make myself with inkscape. But they are one of my least favorite things to do in the world. But when they do come out right it's very satisfying. I couldnt imagine trying to get it right with one or two decals. On average to get a useable decal I print 10 and of that around 8 are usable and to get a good even application I use about 5 of them and still feel like it's not as good as it could be. It's a perfect example of when "the enemy of good enough is better". But I have to say this decal came out great Ted, your experience and cool head shows.
Perfect timing! Thanks, Ted!
You should look into some supplies called micro sol and micro set for decals. They're used in the miniature hobby and are apparently THE SECRET to applying decals without tearing them etc etc
Well done on the decals!
i love your work!
As a model maker, I found the water slide decal segment hard to watch 🤣 Unless you work with them frequently, they can be very fiddly. If you break the surface tension, by brushing on Microset first, you can move very large decals, for quite some time, relative to how fast it dries. Wrinkles and shrinkage can be removed, after it dries, with one, sometimes multiple passes with microsol, and a damp q-tip, rolling it across the decal, between your fingers. Great job though. Everything turned out great
Lovely job Ted. The face of the headstock turned out really nice. Really lovely guitar, but yes...noisy!
Great work as always! What I found was that most of the reputable replica builders agree on is that de Gibson logo was a decal (or inlay on standards) and got covered with clear coats but that the script was silkscreened on after finishing. That's why G logo is mostly protected and you can see the cracks in the clear over them while the script paint is exposed and wears much more easily.