Looking real good! When casting big flat areas such as the side's you might want to use a riser on your pour sprue access, the riser can be made of a soup can with both ends removed............ run your sprue tube into the can/shell and pack with your sand, remove the sprue pin, contour one end for the fill and set the can/shell over your pour port and you can do the same for the riser port as well............this acts as a hydro-static in-port for the shrinkage to take place rather than on or in the casting, this method works very well for most all split pattern's with heavy or thick components to the part, same method for lost foam as well!
I'm super glad to see this project started. I was following the lathe build, and I'm not sure how I missed the start of the shaper. I get so stoked for toolmaking, and building whole machine tools from the ground up really gets me going
Looks like you acquired a whole bunch of new tools since the beginning of the gingery lathe project :) I'm looking forward to this shaper series. I'm about a year behind you on the gingery projects. I hope you make it though all 7 books.
Loved it Cressel! I recommend a cement mixer for mulling the sand. That's what we use when we don't use petro bond. Also we do our own formula for the green sand and I will share that info in a series cumming up. Your shaper is off to a solid start. Keep it up and I'll keep watching. Best Matt
+Centurial Inc what are your thoughts on the heavy weighted wheels typical in muller designs? I understand that they help smear the clay binder on the grains of sand. Perhaps just giving it longer in the mixer achieves the same thing, but perhaps less efficiently? Getting a mixer is attractive because I could also use it for concrete or mortar versus a dedicated muller.
I can't say much about heavy wheels. Buying a proper Muller is far to expensive, and I didn't want to make one. It is suppose to be better for one reason or another. All I can say is that the cement mixer tumbles the sand and the tumbling is not enough to brake apart large chunks. In some case (over damp sand) the sand will ball. But not major issues. Yes it will tumble for longer than a Muller i'm sure of that. But its automated and electricity in our area is cheap. We bought a hardbor freight model and it works very well. And yes the multi purpose use is very attractive. Well priced and quick. It is hard to turn down. So far no problems with it or with the sand. Some times we will have to brake apart large chunks by hand. But that's about it. I recommend it. Some have tossed in heavy objects to the mixer. But I would not do that. Life of the unit will go down. Best Matt
Bruno Martini wow deluxe! awesome. I have a mix of kindle and soft cover. they didn't have all the books on Kindle when I started or I'd probably have all electronic copies. :)
Makercise the book in hard cover was not that much more than Kindle edition. I wanted the book to add to the workshop library and it looks quite nice. also a book does not require batteries. lol
Try using wooden dowels instead of nails for the line up pins. Sand a taper on the pins so that they fit loosely when entering the mating hole but tighter at the base of the pattern where they glue in. You don't need to make a mating tapered hole to receive the pin, just make sure the base of the pin and the mating hole are the same size, especially for a pattern that is only going to be used a couple of times. Work on the same principle as draft on a sand mold. The pin friction will give way as so as you start to draw it out.
You only need about a 3 degree angle for draft. I mention this because you seem to vary from a little to a lot of draft angle, which means some of your surfaces will need a lot of cleanup and/or you have small bearing surfaces on the draft surfaces if they are not undersized enough for the cleanup.
+eformance I went with 5 degrees because it is what gingery used. I might be able to get by with less especially if I was using petrobond. With my skill level and sand I feel like more has been helpful, at least for building the lathe. Perhaps I'll get more adventurous as the shaper progresses.
Nice presentation and excellent castings but I noticed the burnt finish. This is caused by the talc, I use chalk line powder as it doesn't burn and reduces the chance of the cope sand sticking to the drag sand. I'm keen to see your progress. Peter
I loving this video, I’m sure you’ve found good pins by now, but in case you haven’t I use 3mm dowel pins for shelving, look on amazon you can get them in many many lengths and they are all perfect 3mm stainless pins with a tiny chamfer on the edges. They are perfect. I’m thinking about doing a gingery machine so I’m going to watch a load of your videos, cheers o/
When I light my little furnace, I use a small rag with some kerosene on it. BEFORE I turn on the gas I drop the lit rag into the furnace, then step back and turn on the gas. :-)
If you're having issues with pulling the split pattern, you might consider doing what MyFordBoy seems to do, and put in a few "screw ports" on the small piece. He seems to drill and tap a couple of holes so he can later put in screws and use it to uniformly pull the split part out if it's sticking. Just a thought.
+Mark Endre Black Diamond sand and southern bentonite I need to dig up the recipe I used and share it. Shoot me an email so I don't forget. Thanks for the complement.
do use anything for defluxing the aluminum? i have built my own burner and foundry for lathe project but found a good deal on lathe and mill so i might jump to the shaper first instead.
Can you explain why you are not using a casting sand like Petrobond or equivalent? You seem to have cohesion issues and I notice that you're mulling your sand with water; the casting sands I've seen are oil bonded.
Petrobond is one use, and can be expensive. I do believe he mixes his own sand, a process described by gingery. There are pros and cons to consider with all casting methods.
Petrobond is not one-use. You have to mull it with oil after it gets "used up", but it can be reused many time. Take a look at the Myfordboy channel for some excellent casting videos.
+eformance I have been wanting to try some petrobond, but have yet to pull the trigger. The background on my sand...I opted to go with green sand initially because I could make it with local ingredients, play sand and kitty litter. When I decided to buy better sand ingredients, my comfortability from my home made green sand helped me decide to stick with green sand. I opted for black Diamond since the place I bought it couldn't source olivine. I mix it with southern bentonite. In my early research I read somewhere that the water based sand could be rehydrated more easily for a novice than the oil based. Either way a proper muller will be an big improvement both in sand bonding and efficiency. Please share any good sources for muller designs.
Hey, so do you have a place that we could download the assemblies that you are using (for example the one for the shaper shown in this video)? That would be awesome....and great job btw...you beat me to it (doing the whole series on youtube type thing anyway) :) Keep up the good work!
I notice that before you pour you remove a scum from the top of the melted metal. Could you, just for the fun of it, do a pour without removing that top later and show us what happens to the resulting part? Some times seeing failure can reinforce the method. - Just a thought for a slow day of making videos. - Annie.
A lathe makes revolute surfaces such as cylinders, cones, and balls; a shaper makes extruded surfaces such as planar surfaces, dovetails, keyways, coves, and spur gear teeth.
I don't think I'd sell them. Also, I haven't made wooden patterns for everything and have essentially stopped making wooden patterns. hit me up using contact info on website. I may still be able to help.
so... basically you need a fully equipped professional woodworking shop to make the patterns before you can make a single casting for a single aluminium machine?
Not really. In the subsequent videos I use a hot wire foam cutter to make "styrofoam" patterns. Up until this video I had used wooden patterns. I am now of the opinion that making wooden patterns is a waste. If you were wanting to make multiple castings from the same pattern it would be a good idea. But even for the column sides where there are two castings required, I'd go with the lost foam technique.
ahh I see, sorry I was feeling a bit grumpy when i posted the last comment!,feeling better today,just cast my first ingots!lol i got the book to follow when i get the funds and time to get the sand, copes etc but will be checking in on you for inspiration.subscribed. Dan U.K.
Might wanna go back to the electric kiln, save yourself some arm hair :). I'm gathering material to construct an electric one instead of using my propane. I hope it takes less setup and constant monitoring to make sure I don't blow something up. Would also like to be able to leave it if the wife needs help with the baby.
+John V haha. The kiln is easy and precise for sure, but there is something about the sound of a gas or kerosene fuel foundry that I just love. I guess it's like having a sports car and a motorcycle. Two different experiences but both a lot of fun.
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Missing Everything [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dTYeMZGzOzw/mqdefault.jpg)
Looking real good! When casting big flat areas such as the side's you might want to use a riser on your pour sprue access, the riser can be made of a soup can with both ends removed............ run your sprue tube into the can/shell and pack with your sand, remove the sprue pin, contour one end for the fill and set the can/shell over your pour port and you can do the same for the riser port as well............this acts as a hydro-static in-port for the shrinkage to take place rather than on or in the casting, this method works very well for most all split pattern's with heavy or thick components to the part, same method for lost foam as well!
I'm super glad to see this project started. I was following the lathe build, and I'm not sure how I missed the start of the shaper. I get so stoked for toolmaking, and building whole machine tools from the ground up really gets me going
Looks like you acquired a whole bunch of new tools since the beginning of the gingery lathe project :) I'm looking forward to this shaper series. I'm about a year behind you on the gingery projects. I hope you make it though all 7 books.
Thank you and Matthew Wilson. Nice work. I haven't seen a foundry design quite like yours. I like it.
Loved it Cressel! I recommend a cement mixer for mulling the sand. That's what we use when we don't use petro bond. Also we do our own formula for the green sand and I will share that info in a series cumming up. Your shaper is off to a solid start. Keep it up and I'll keep watching.
Best Matt
+Centurial Inc what are your thoughts on the heavy weighted wheels typical in muller designs? I understand that they help smear the clay binder on the grains of sand. Perhaps just giving it longer in the mixer achieves the same thing, but perhaps less efficiently? Getting a mixer is attractive because I could also use it for concrete or mortar versus a dedicated muller.
I can't say much about heavy wheels. Buying a proper Muller is far to expensive, and I didn't want to make one. It is suppose to be better for one reason or another. All I can say is that the cement mixer tumbles the sand and the tumbling is not enough to brake apart large chunks. In some case (over damp sand) the sand will ball. But not major issues. Yes it will tumble for longer than a Muller i'm sure of that. But its automated and electricity in our area is cheap. We bought a hardbor freight model and it works very well. And yes the multi purpose use is very attractive. Well priced and quick. It is hard to turn down. So far no problems with it or with the sand. Some times we will have to brake apart large chunks by hand. But that's about it. I recommend it. Some have tossed in heavy objects to the mixer. But I would not do that. Life of the unit will go down.
Best Matt
Do you have the 3-1/2 or 1-1/4 ft^3 variety?
3- 1/2. It can mix a full 5 gallon bucket of sand no problem.
Congrats on the improved casting quality! that came out awesome!
Those castings came out great! Can't wait to see the rest of the project!
I ended up getting the hard cover book that has all 7 books in it on Amazon. love the book so far. reading the lathe portion now.
Bruno Martini wow deluxe! awesome. I have a mix of kindle and soft cover. they didn't have all the books on Kindle when I started or I'd probably have all electronic copies. :)
Makercise the book in hard cover was not that much more than Kindle edition. I wanted the book to add to the workshop library and it looks quite nice. also a book does not require batteries. lol
I didn't know that was a thing! I do believe I'm gonna grab a copy right now!
Try using wooden dowels instead of nails for the line up pins. Sand a taper on the pins so that they fit loosely when entering the mating hole but tighter at the base of the pattern where they glue in. You don't need to make a mating tapered hole to receive the pin, just make sure the base of the pin and the mating hole are the same size, especially for a pattern that is only going to be used a couple of times. Work on the same principle as draft on a sand mold. The pin friction will give way as so as you start to draw it out.
This might be more epic than the lathe
You only need about a 3 degree angle for draft. I mention this because you seem to vary from a little to a lot of draft angle, which means some of your surfaces will need a lot of cleanup and/or you have small bearing surfaces on the draft surfaces if they are not undersized enough for the cleanup.
+eformance I went with 5 degrees because it is what gingery used. I might be able to get by with less especially if I was using petrobond. With my skill level and sand I feel like more has been helpful, at least for building the lathe. Perhaps I'll get more adventurous as the shaper progresses.
Nice presentation and excellent castings but I noticed the burnt finish. This is caused by the talc, I use chalk line powder as it doesn't burn and reduces the chance of the cope sand sticking to the drag sand. I'm keen to see your progress. Peter
+PGS I'll give it a shot. Does the color matter? I have blue on hand.
Depends on what you prefer to show through your video.
I loving this video, I’m sure you’ve found good pins by now, but in case you haven’t I use 3mm dowel pins for shelving, look on amazon you can get them in many many lengths and they are all perfect 3mm stainless pins with a tiny chamfer on the edges. They are perfect. I’m thinking about doing a gingery machine so I’m going to watch a load of your videos, cheers o/
The camera angle changes are working a lot better now.
Very clever flask hoist !
When I light my little furnace, I use a small rag with some kerosene on it. BEFORE I turn on the gas I drop the lit rag into the furnace, then step back and turn on the gas. :-)
Fantastic project .Congratulations ..
Dude, you're awesome! Love watching your videos!
I have just discovered your channel and I love it! Looking forward for the next video, keep up the good work man :)
+Jake's Workshop awesome! Glad to have you joining the journey.
If you're having issues with pulling the split pattern, you might consider doing what MyFordBoy seems to do, and put in a few "screw ports" on the small piece. He seems to drill and tap a couple of holes so he can later put in screws and use it to uniformly pull the split part out if it's sticking. Just a thought.
Looks like you did that for the bigger part. try it on the small ones, too.
How did you make your casting sand? What recipe did you use? Your videos are getting better and better. Well Done!
+Mark Endre Black Diamond sand and southern bentonite I need to dig up the recipe I used and share it. Shoot me an email so I don't forget. Thanks for the complement.
do you have a series on making a table saw to make this project with?
I do not
Do You have any video from the furnace, or one after the fact will be great. Thanks.
ruclips.net/video/2B9BLASX3YQ/видео.html
do use anything for defluxing the aluminum? i have built my own burner and foundry for lathe project but found a good deal on lathe and mill so i might jump to the shaper first instead.
+James Sprague I bought a pint of the aluminum flux from budget casting supply. I didn't get footage in this casting but I used about a spoonful.
Silicone spraying the pattern?
Extremely sweet! saw the Sun and Fun poster? you fly?
Yes, but not since 2015. I have almost 100hrs.
Sweet. I live about an 1.5 hours form Oshkosh and have about 200 hours.
OI! Are you gonna do the mill or what? I'm taking notes, dude.
Can you explain why you are not using a casting sand like Petrobond or equivalent? You seem to have cohesion issues and I notice that you're mulling your sand with water; the casting sands I've seen are oil bonded.
Petrobond is one use, and can be expensive. I do believe he mixes his own sand, a process described by gingery. There are pros and cons to consider with all casting methods.
Petrobond is not one-use. You have to mull it with oil after it gets "used up", but it can be reused many time. Take a look at the Myfordboy channel for some excellent casting videos.
+eformance I have been wanting to try some petrobond, but have yet to pull the trigger. The background on my sand...I opted to go with green sand initially because I could make it with local ingredients, play sand and kitty litter. When I decided to buy better sand ingredients, my comfortability from my home made green sand helped me decide to stick with green sand. I opted for black Diamond since the place I bought it couldn't source olivine. I mix it with southern bentonite. In my early research I read somewhere that the water based sand could be rehydrated more easily for a novice than the oil based. Either way a proper muller will be an big improvement both in sand bonding and efficiency. Please share any good sources for muller designs.
Hey, so do you have a place that we could download the assemblies that you are using (for example the one for the shaper shown in this video)? That would be awesome....and great job btw...you beat me to it (doing the whole series on youtube type thing anyway) :) Keep up the good work!
I notice that before you pour you remove a scum from the top of the melted metal. Could you, just for the fun of it, do a pour without removing that top later and show us what happens to the resulting part? Some times seeing failure can reinforce the method. - Just a thought for a slow day of making videos. - Annie.
+SuperYtviewer good idea. I'll look for an opportunity, but I'm staying pretty busy ;)
I'll Look forward to that episode. TIll then I will be following your projects.
What is a shaper used for?
Emile Badenhorst to flatten metal while you go for a walk
A lathe makes revolute surfaces such as cylinders, cones, and balls; a shaper makes extruded surfaces such as planar surfaces, dovetails, keyways, coves, and spur gear teeth.
You can make anything with a shaper, except money
Your awesome dude love your work bro :)
+TJ'S WOODWORKING SHOP thanks pal.
impresssssssive!
Thanks man!
i recommend adding a piece of rod on the outside of the locating pins so that you can freely spin the flask around the "x axis"
would you be willing to sell your patterns?
I don't think I'd sell them. Also, I haven't made wooden patterns for everything and have essentially stopped making wooden patterns. hit me up using contact info on website. I may still be able to help.
Thank god for Lyle Peterson AKA tubalcain right?!!
Amen!
Fear not, my friend - you don't need the hair on the back of your hand/arm. Trust me. ;-)
its pronounce Jin and tonic ( JIN JERY ) GINGERY. the G g are pronounced as j for jail and jack poms language
so... basically you need a fully equipped professional woodworking shop to make the patterns before you can make a single casting for a single aluminium machine?
Not really. In the subsequent videos I use a hot wire foam cutter to make "styrofoam" patterns. Up until this video I had used wooden patterns. I am now of the opinion that making wooden patterns is a waste. If you were wanting to make multiple castings from the same pattern it would be a good idea. But even for the column sides where there are two castings required, I'd go with the lost foam technique.
ahh I see, sorry I was feeling a bit grumpy when i posted the last comment!,feeling better today,just cast my first ingots!lol i got the book to follow when i get the funds and time to get the sand, copes etc but will be checking in on you for inspiration.subscribed.
Dan U.K.
Might wanna go back to the electric kiln, save yourself some arm hair :). I'm gathering material to construct an electric one instead of using my propane. I hope it takes less setup and constant monitoring to make sure I don't blow something up. Would also like to be able to leave it if the wife needs help with the baby.
+John V haha. The kiln is easy and precise for sure, but there is something about the sound of a gas or kerosene fuel foundry that I just love. I guess it's like having a sports car and a motorcycle. Two different experiences but both a lot of fun.
I am sorry to interrupt you but i think this site steals your videos ruclips.net/video/oa57r64B70Y/видео.html
It doesn't seem to be my content. Looks like original content. Thanks for being on the lookout. It does happen.