Tamiya XV01 Heavily Modified Rally Nissan 240 Z Build
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- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2024
- Time for some rally action!
Building a replica of the Nissan 240Z Africa rally entrant, the overall winner of the 19th East African Safari Rally in 1971, it also brought Nissan its second win in a row, after the prior years win in a Datsun Blubird.
The bodyshell is Tamiya's fantastic lexan shell and the chassis is the robust and rally proven Tamiya XV01. We threw the option parts catalogue at RC Mart into the build with modifications to bullet proof the chassis for years of use from Yeah Racing and Tamiya. 
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very nice build, chassis and body!
Haven’t seen this it’s pretty sweet I had the same thing with my crawlers except I bought a slash last week
Very nice Datsun Body. How did you realize the wheelbase of 252 mm to fit the Datsun body on the XV-01 chassis, which comes with a wheelbase of 257 mm?
Thankyou very much my friend. The body actually fits almost perfectly and if you cut the arches once the shell is mounted you will be able to get the best possible alignment. You will barely notice that the arches cut a bit into the rear portion of the flares at the back of the car.
would the Datsun Body fit on XV-01's Long Damper version?
Hi yes it would but the front sits a little higher in the long damper kit.
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I just got the slipper clutch. What pinion gear did you use? Thanks.
i guess Im kind of randomly asking but do anyone know a good website to watch newly released tv shows online?
@Alberto Sebastian i dunno I watch on flixportal. just google for it:P -kayson
@Kayson Malakai thank you, I went there and it seems to work :D Appreciate it !
ヤバイ！excellent！
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Thankyou very much for the compliment!
Not sure how many Tamiya kits you've built (or any one else's), but having parts on different trees is normal. Yokomo, Axial, 3Racing, Spec-R all do that. Only kits that DON'T come with trees have parts bagged all neatly.
As far as fitment and all that sanding, I built one of these and didn't have to sand anything.
Last criticism, remove that aluminum arms. They do nothing for durability. You need to have a "weak point" or a "break point" in the suspension so the force of a collision has somewhere to transfer - as it is right now, aluminum arms can bend slightly and you'll be chasing a subtle tweak that makes the car garbage whereas a plastic arm would snap and you'd clearly identify the damaged part. I cannot tell you the number of times I've seen that on a TMAXX with full aluminum and the owner's upset because the truck drives like garbage
Otherwise the body looks good. I didn't want you to think I was attacking you, just wanted to share my experiences of my 30-old years doing this
Thanks very much. The arms on this kit are purely for looks as this kit was more built for display. The vehicle I use for rally uses the original plastic arms (actually it uses the truck version arms for the increased durability and flexibility as you mention). As for plastic trees.... The last tamiya kit I built was probably in 1987 so I don't remember the horror of plastic trees... All my other rc cars are from Infinity, Awesomatix, Shepherd, Capricorn etc which have kit items by bag so I must admit it was a bit of a rude awakening back to the world of Tamiya.
In relation to the sanding... for me parts must fit very well but must not be jammed into place to be put in... Specifically bearings, otherwise when it comes time to service the bearings and they need to be forced out with a dowel with force they may get damaged.
And you are so right about hard arms. Used to run a 1/8 SMP Slide that had all aluminum machined arms. One crash in a race and you were out either due to tweak or breakage. But boy were they a gorgoeus car. Probably explains my fetish to put metal all over this display piece.