There is a way to solder Surface Mount components so they don't "tombstone" or stick to the soldering iron. 1. Apply a *small* amount of solder to *one* of the pads where the component will be (do this without the component in place). 2. Place the component in position with a pair of tweezers 3. Apply a *small* amount of pressure to the top of the component to hold it in place 4. Touch the iron to the pad which you previously applied solder to If done properly, the component will drop flat against the board and get locked in place. This will allow you to keep near perfect alignment, and solder the remaining pads without fear of the component lifting or sticking to the iron. You can then apply additional solder to the pre-tinned pad if necessary.
Escapist166 Reflowing a board is good if you take the time to glue down every piece first,or have a pick and place machine, but reflowing an entire board for one tiny component, especially on a populated board or a board with both SMD and through-hole, seems a bit unnecessary, and carries added risks. Not only that, but there's no reason to do that for one-offs. Soldering SMD components is an important skill to have, so doing small one-offs by hand helps keep the skills sharp.
Why would you solder in the usb connector first? By soldering it in last, you can mount the SMD parts way more easily because the board will be flush on the table.
One great way to avoid the "tombstone" is to use masking tape. Use tweezers to put the chip in place, and then carefully lay the tape vertically on one half of it (the side you aren't going to solder first). The most important part above all, is that the masking tape is tightly in place. Once it is firmly in position and circuit leads are aligned with the pads, then go ahead and apply flux if needed, then solder the pins on the exposed side. Remove the tape when finished, and then perform soldering the other side, no tape needed. A solder mask makes this easier as it's harder for solder to flow far from the point you are attempting to solder, and a syringe with flux makes things *even* easier than that, preventing solder from creating bridges easily. (I use no-clean, tacky flux, in a ventilated area) Also: Amra's suggestion is simpler and requires less resources to perform. This is simply my own solution for doing this at home.
Please do not teach bad habits. Name the pads in the package editor using numbers like 12345. Name the pins in the symbol editor with "VCC" and "GND" and "PROG" and "VBAT" and "STAT". Then use the device editor to connect them. This way, you can have one package be usable for multiple symbols for different devices.
The Ben Heck Show Yes much better doing it that way, also naming the symbol with the partnumber not the package type, that way when you add another SOT-23 shaped chip you can tell them apart. Also rotating the parts around to make the chips power pins point up and input be on the left and output on the right is good practice but yeah making schematics for yourself it doesn't mater at all.(You see the value of clean schematics once you start drawing ones with 30 chips in them and some being having 100 pins, can become a unreadable spaghetti monster mess quickly)
The editor I use assigns two attributes to component legs, physical ports and logical ports. The physical ports are simply pin numbers. Logical ports can be anything you like. If you are making a generic part, use the same numbers again. If it is a specialised part, use the pin function names.
You should do separate video for Eagle Cad tutorials. Not quite the content I had thought from the title. If I was looking for Eagle Cad tutorial, I would not look at a charge circuit video and vice versa.
You asked for it: Please do Ghost Squad part 2 or perhaps even another part only with your pinball development like you had in the early times of the show. Would be awesome!!! Pinball-Fans out there get a word to Ben.
ok ..you really need to check your youtube automated transcripts ... "illegal" 'that pimp' 'that sh*t' ... it reads like some bizarre gansta electronics..pimp my soldering iron! show or something! lol :)
what will happen if you reverse the polarity of the battery while connecting it to charging circuit? I mean if you connect the negative terminal of the battery and connect the positive one to the ground. can it destroy the charger circuit?
How about a 2S battery charger/power supply circuit, that will automatically cut out and charge the batteries when AC power is connected? And then cut them back in once the supply is removed. That would be cool.
Sorry I am a low tech. My question is those Chip/circuit board in the lab top batteries or any batteries design to stop the power from over charge the batteries right ? Thanks
Hey Ben, first time commenter long time viewer. For Halloween you should make a fun size candy dispenser to leave on your door step while you are out. Perhaps it could use a motion activated sensor like in a paper towel dispenser. A little late for this year but, ya know...
I made this circuit but using 10uf capacitors and my led does not turn off .do you think its anything to do with the caps my power supply is just under 5v also.
***** en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductive_charging Nope, not impossible. We live in the future good sir. I can charge my Android phone by placing it on an Inductive Charging Mat. There's your "electricity through the air" lol. Although technically it's really a magnetic field... but it still hads the sane end result.
Simple: Don't follow the misguided instructions in the video. Use "Net", not "Wire". You almost never ever want to use Wire in a schematic to connect parts. When you use Net for connecting parts it automatically inserts junctions for you. To draw lines in other layers it's fine to use Wire.
could you mod a The Legend of Zelda cartridge with this chargins circuit so the internal battery recharges everytime you plug the cartridge into a NES and turn it on? it would make the save files live pretty much forever, if you play frequently enough. alternatively cou could connect the charging circuit to an USB cable instead of the cartride pins... or to both! so you don't have to charge it via USB if you're playing frequently enough.
Does anyone make a tiny circuit already built for a 5S pack? Regular chargers are way too big for what I want and everything I have found that can be bought has the overcharge and over discharge voltages too far off. Probably why packs die much sooner than they should. I want a high cutoff at 4.20 and a low at 3.00.
+Stanislav Jochman if the cells are in series :yes, if they are in parallel: no. In parallel, they have the same voltage across them(ie they self adjust)
hey ben. i just wanted to make sure you were aware of tweezers soldering irons. they work really well with surface mount components and will bring your show from amateur to pro
Hey does anyone know what Ben has a degree in? I'm planning on going into a computer field, and I'm trying to get a grasp on the expertise of graduates of each major so I can decide which route I will take. If someone could answer that, it'd be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Austin
I still don't know how you determine what the best value for each resistor and capacitor to protect the circuit. (genuine question, no criticism please)
With your "laser paint" method - wouldn't it be a better idea to just laser-etch the board directly instead of painting it, removing the negative and etching it with chemical etchants?
Ah! Of course - see, I was basing my speculation on the laser cutter we have at the plant which is used for cutting very thin aluminium (it's more accurate than plasma cutting in this case - for bigger things: plasma all the way Oo-Rah!) The thing I've since discovered about the laser cutter at work is that it has a very high energy output; probably wouldn't get away shoving that beast in your workshop without somebody wondering why you're running the most expensive light source in the neighbourhood ;)
Bottom of page 1 on the MCP73831's datasheet. The only part that is missing is the USB connector but just hook USB's +5V to the MCP73831's VDD pin and the USB's GND to VSS, and you're all set. ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20001984g.pdf
Please do not make the symbols for the schematics look the same like the package. It makes your schematics unreadable. Make them so that you can connect all external components in a clean and readable way. GND on the bottom and VDD and Vbat on the top (one at each side). The datasheet symbol representation of this component is quite a good example.
Is there any way to Charge my two 18650 3,7 V 3000mah Batteries? One guy told me i have to use a balancer. they are in my portable Raspberry Pi Projekt. Can someone explain me this? (english or german)
***** Thats what im doing now, but i want to charge the batteries while they are inside of the portable Raspberry Pi! i dont want to extract they every time from the device. Dont know how to connect the loading "stuff" to the System (its already works) . My batteries are Serial connected, so i get 7.4V with 3000 mAh and someone said me i have to use a balancer, so they both get loaded to a same "level" and not overcharged or destroyed. I know the wrong usage is dangerouse and they can explode, thats the reason i search a solution . The item from amazon i already have. Big thanks for the answer
Hello Ben. Is it possible to use the battery while it's charging? Or do I need a switch between the external power supply and battery? Could you give an example of a backup power supply for the Arduino with a lithium battery?
Yes you can use the battery while its charging. In a project I'm working on that uses this charging IC I placed a switch between the battery and Arduino circuitry so the USB port+charger+battery are always fully connected while the Arduino's power can be switched on and off. With this setup you can plug in a USB cable and the battery charger functions no matter if the switch is on or off. I show a schematic of this about 7 minutes into this video Freetronics Wireless Cube4 Part 1
yes and no, it depends on the battery charger IC, some specifically do not allow it, and attaching a load while charging the battery will destabilize their regulation loop, it's best to assume that you can't, unless the specific IC you are using mentions that you can
Yes, he's using the circuit shown on the bottom of page 1 on the MCP73831's datasheet. I've used 10uF caps in 2 projects rather than 4.7 and they work fine as well. ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20001984g.pdf
It probably is purple, the camera probably got it wrong. This happens all the time with my camera, I take a picture of something blue and it comes out purple, or something bright green ends up yellow. I think it has to do with pixels being made up of different colors and human eyes interpret this differently than a camera would.
I just started using Protel dxp 2014 (We are working on it in school) And i really want to know opinions on protel vs eagle for me it looks like eagle is simpler and friendlier to use then protel but protel has some nice stuff but ... just want to hear opinions Thanks !
lol protel sounds more professional about that license ... nah our whole country is falling apart pays are bad like really bad and prices are high even higher than prices from germany for food at least we can barely survive and as high school student i don't get any money nor a side job to do so i can't afford to give even 10 $ on license ... yeah that's how bad the state is ;) i'm sure i won't even get a job after school but there's at least hope ...
Go with Altium, been using it for years now and its night and day compared to eagle. It might be a bit more complicated to get started with, but there are good training videos on the website to get you going. But its worth it because altium does pretty much everything better. The difference might not matter for small projects, but once you get to big complex boards it helps a great deal to have those fancy features in altium and the nicer interface for moving tracks around as you are trying to squeeze that last 0.5mm of space out to get your track to fit trough a gap.
USB standard uses 4 pins (power +, data +, data - and power -) Micro USB has 5 pins and the 4th one is to tell which device is superior some smartphones have USB host and flash drives or USB mice can be connected to them for more info look in wikipedia
Hi Ben, i'm a fan from italy and I want to ask an hard question to you: I can transform my raspberry pi into an android device like a little smartphone? Greets from Italy
The charging IC he used, an MCP73831, has a maximum charge rate of 500mAh. This is also the maximum charge rate you can pull from a computer USB port so it's a useful in that situation. The charge rate is adjustable by the resistor you hook to pin 5, the PROG pin, on the IC. The datasheet ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20001984g.pdf has a formula to calculate the resistor value to use for different charging currents on page 15 in section 5.1.2, and there's a picture of the charge rate vs resistor value on page 7, figure 2-4. This is just the maximum charge rate though, the charger's logic will adjust the rate accordingly until the battery is charged, it just won't go over the rate you set.
Build a Raspberry Pi smartphone PLEASE PS: Because my smartphone dropped from my pocket and then stolen :-( i have a raspberry pi and WHY NOT MAKE IT INTO A FUCKING SMARTPHONE!!! the problem is that i don't know how to
Are you serious? How do you pretend to use a circuit in a protoboard? The finish is horrible, a PBC makes a much more professional finish to the proyect, so it's not waste of time
If they wanted to make a eagle tutorial video they would call it "basic eagle tutorial" ???? And also if you know how to solder properly and have experience with mounting components (which I'm sure Ben has) the protoboard will look fine..,
Constantly panning the camera back and forth from yourself and the computer screen is kind of annoying and almost makes me dizzy. Are you afraid we will forget what you look like?
There is a way to solder Surface Mount components so they don't "tombstone" or stick to the soldering iron.
1. Apply a *small* amount of solder to *one* of the pads where the component will be (do this without the component in place).
2. Place the component in position with a pair of tweezers
3. Apply a *small* amount of pressure to the top of the component to hold it in place
4. Touch the iron to the pad which you previously applied solder to
If done properly, the component will drop flat against the board and get locked in place. This will allow you to keep near perfect alignment, and solder the remaining pads without fear of the component lifting or sticking to the iron. You can then apply additional solder to the pre-tinned pad if necessary.
Amra Thanks for sharing!
The Ben Heck Show Yeah I was surprised to see the way you soldered those surface mount parts considering how much electronics you do..
I've had success using a scapel to hold the parts down whilst soldering
Why don't people use solder paste and a heat gun or reflow oven?
Escapist166 Reflowing a board is good if you take the time to glue down every piece first,or have a pick and place machine, but reflowing an entire board for one tiny component, especially on a populated board or a board with both SMD and through-hole, seems a bit unnecessary, and carries added risks. Not only that, but there's no reason to do that for one-offs. Soldering SMD components is an important skill to have, so doing small one-offs by hand helps keep the skills sharp.
Great episode, folks. I really appreciated the step-by-step work in Eagle, great learning experience, designing schematics seems like a lot of fun!
***** Glad you enjoyed the episode!
The best technology channel on RUclips
Thanks for the little eagle tutorial, it was the best part of the whole video to me
Why would you solder in the usb connector first? By soldering it in last, you can mount the SMD parts way more easily because the board will be flush on the table.
I guess it is pretty randomly asking but does anyone know of a good place to watch new series online?
@Garrett Valentino flixportal :P
@Dayton Devin Thanks, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) Appreciate it !!
@Garrett Valentino you are welcome :)
One great way to avoid the "tombstone" is to use masking tape. Use tweezers to put the chip in place, and then carefully lay the tape vertically on one half of it (the side you aren't going to solder first). The most important part above all, is that the masking tape is tightly in place. Once it is firmly in position and circuit leads are aligned with the pads, then go ahead and apply flux if needed, then solder the pins on the exposed side. Remove the tape when finished, and then perform soldering the other side, no tape needed.
A solder mask makes this easier as it's harder for solder to flow far from the point you are attempting to solder, and a syringe with flux makes things *even* easier than that, preventing solder from creating bridges easily. (I use no-clean, tacky flux, in a ventilated area)
Also: Amra's suggestion is simpler and requires less resources to perform. This is simply my own solution for doing this at home.
Another great build. Thanks Ben
You can easily do a solder mask and drill the holes with the laser cutter. It works really well.
First do all smd stuff, and then TH stuff! :)
Some tape can help with those small boards from moving around when you are solder the smd stuff.
Having to recreate a SOT23-5 is a pain in the butt. That's why I don't use Eagle CAD anymore. ;)
Ghost squad.. Part II.. Haha I love this show, it needs to also be on TV
Please do not teach bad habits. Name the pads in the package editor using numbers like 12345. Name the pins in the symbol editor with "VCC" and "GND" and "PROG" and "VBAT" and "STAT". Then use the device editor to connect them.
This way, you can have one package be usable for multiple symbols for different devices.
frank26080115 I'm still fairly new to EAGLE, so I appreciate your advice. :)
The Ben Heck Show Yes much better doing it that way, also naming the symbol with the partnumber not the package type, that way when you add another SOT-23 shaped chip you can tell them apart.
Also rotating the parts around to make the chips power pins point up and input be on the left and output on the right is good practice but yeah making schematics for yourself it doesn't mater at all.(You see the value of clean schematics once you start drawing ones with 30 chips in them and some being having 100 pins, can become a unreadable spaghetti monster mess quickly)
The editor I use assigns two attributes to component legs, physical ports and logical ports. The physical ports are simply pin numbers. Logical ports can be anything you like. If you are making a generic part, use the same numbers again. If it is a specialised part, use the pin function names.
You should do separate video for Eagle Cad tutorials. Not quite the content I had thought from the title. If I was looking for Eagle Cad tutorial, I would not look at a charge circuit video and vice versa.
Yes, we NEED Ghost Squad Part 2
You asked for it: Please do Ghost Squad part 2 or perhaps even another part only with your pinball development like you had in the early times of the show. Would be awesome!!! Pinball-Fans out there get a word to Ben.
I was notified of this and I don't know why but I am not complaining
I think that's when you're online on RUclips and some video of your subscriptions gets uploaded.
I get notified of new videos, because I am following their channel on G+.
That design is so good its ill-Eagle
one of the best episode to date.
ok ..you really need to check your youtube automated transcripts ... "illegal" 'that pimp' 'that sh*t' ... it reads like some bizarre gansta electronics..pimp my soldering iron! show or something! lol :)
lol like: produced dramatic k now I'm going to add :))
MrSlehofer 8:47 : I just grabbed America like a and Grandpa they have a couple :DDD
OMG pimp my soldering iron LOL. That would be so hilarious, who wants to make a parody show one episode with this idea? Hahahahha.
Excellent video as always.
what will happen if you reverse the polarity of the battery while connecting it to charging circuit? I mean if you connect the negative terminal of the battery and connect the positive one to the ground. can it destroy the charger circuit?
First time I caught a video uploaded! Well, great vid!
Eagle section had some useful tips thanks!
How about a 2S battery charger/power supply circuit, that will automatically cut out and charge the batteries when AC power is connected? And then cut them back in once the supply is removed. That would be cool.
Sorry I am a low tech. My question is those Chip/circuit board in the lab top batteries or any batteries design to stop the power from over charge the batteries right ? Thanks
How about building a SMPS from scratch? They are pretty straightforward.
chips that generate heat can they not be used to take the heat to generate more electricity? I think can be done! Love to see you try this ben!
Hey Ben, first time commenter long time viewer.
For Halloween you should make a fun size candy dispenser to leave on your door step while you are out. Perhaps it could use a motion activated sensor like in a paper towel dispenser. A little late for this year but, ya know...
Ryan Kolalis We'll keep the idea in mind for next year.
hi sir I want circuit charger battery4.2volt indicator led turn off when fulle charged by transistor?
As a linear IC, shouldn't this IC have a copper "dissipator" to, of course, dissipate the heat?
What printer did you use? Is it a normal laser engraver? What specs should i look for if I want to buy one? What make and model did you use?
I needed this thanks Ben
May I safely assume that you also used the autoplace, or at least the autorout function of eagle in the final step of pcb designing?
Commercial PCB Software, Yeuch!
I made this circuit but using 10uf capacitors and my led does not turn off .do you think its anything to do with the caps my power supply is just under 5v also.
I'd be interested in what kind of PCB would be required for wireless charging... Any plans for that?
I need high current charge at 2-3 Amp but almost chip in market only 0.5 - 1 Amp
Can you suggest similar ICs from TI with equally low number of number of external components?
Hey I'm trying to figure out the function of those resistors. What do they do in this circuit?
You should do some sort of wireless charging project.
Its impossible to send electricity through the air...
***** Tell that to lightning. Also, Tesla.
*****
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductive_charging
Nope, not impossible. We live in the future good sir. I can charge my Android phone by placing it on an Inductive Charging Mat. There's your "electricity through the air" lol. Although technically it's really a magnetic field... but it still hads the sane end result.
***** Wireless Electricity - WiTricity Showcase TED 2009 (Edit)
XD ok nvm
How do you power the unit while the battery is charging with this design?
Making your schematic pretty and organized might save you time and effort trying to figure out why, should something go wrong later. :D
How come no one tins their pcbs anymore?
How did you get Eagle to make joints when you click? are you using a hotkey? Just ending wire there does'nt give me joints!
Simple: Don't follow the misguided instructions in the video. Use "Net", not "Wire". You almost never ever want to use Wire in a schematic to connect parts. When you use Net for connecting parts it automatically inserts junctions for you. To draw lines in other layers it's fine to use Wire.
HidekiSamba thanks! no tutorial ever teached that :D
Wonder what goes on in Ben's head. Assuming it's a high speed blender of sci and pop culture references that are sometimes audible.
could you mod a The Legend of Zelda cartridge with this chargins circuit so the internal battery recharges everytime you plug the cartridge into a NES and turn it on? it would make the save files live pretty much forever, if you play frequently enough. alternatively cou could connect the charging circuit to an USB cable instead of the cartride pins... or to both! so you don't have to charge it via USB if you're playing frequently enough.
I like your show
so custom circuit print results in a double negative?
So cool...
Does anyone make a tiny circuit already built for a 5S pack? Regular chargers are way too big for what I want and everything I have found that can be bought has the overcharge and over discharge voltages too far off. Probably why packs die much sooner than they should. I want a high cutoff at 4.20 and a low at 3.00.
what type of printer did you used to print PCB?
must i use balancer to charge 2 cels of li-ion batteries.
thanks
+Stanislav Jochman if the cells are in series :yes, if they are in parallel: no. In parallel, they have the same voltage across them(ie they self adjust)
hey ben. i just wanted to make sure you were aware of tweezers soldering irons. they work really well with surface mount components and will bring your show from amateur to pro
Hey Ben, can you make an automatic cheese grater. It should be simple, strong, and fast.
How could I use this to charge a 3 cell battery?
Hey does anyone know what Ben has a degree in? I'm planning on going into a computer field, and I'm trying to get a grasp on the expertise of graduates of each major so I can decide which route I will take. If someone could answer that, it'd be greatly appreciated! Thanks,
Austin
I think Ben is an autodidact. According to what I've read his trained background is in graphic arts.
mhm i would still prefer a L200 to do the job. It has also 5 pins but much more power and can charge what ever you want
I still don't know how you determine what the best value for each resistor and capacitor to protect the circuit. (genuine question, no criticism please)
Is it me, or does Ben looks like Data from Star Trek?
With your "laser paint" method - wouldn't it be a better idea to just laser-etch the board directly instead of painting it, removing the negative and etching it with chemical etchants?
The laser can do absolutely nothing to the copper....
Ah! Of course - see, I was basing my speculation on the laser cutter we have at the plant which is used for cutting very thin aluminium (it's more accurate than plasma cutting in this case - for bigger things: plasma all the way Oo-Rah!)
The thing I've since discovered about the laser cutter at work is that it has a very high energy output; probably wouldn't get away shoving that beast in your workshop without somebody wondering why you're running the most expensive light source in the neighbourhood ;)
Why not using the laser to make a solder mask????
what ic is that?
where can i find circuit diagram for the circuit?
Bottom of page 1 on the MCP73831's datasheet. The only part that is missing is the USB connector but just hook USB's +5V to the MCP73831's VDD pin and the USB's GND to VSS, and you're all set. ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20001984g.pdf
Please do not make the symbols for the schematics look the same like the package. It makes your schematics unreadable. Make them so that you can connect all external components in a clean and readable way. GND on the bottom and VDD and Vbat on the top (one at each side). The datasheet symbol representation of this component is quite a good example.
Is there any way to Charge my two 18650 3,7 V 3000mah Batteries? One guy told me i have to use a balancer. they are in my portable Raspberry Pi Projekt. Can someone explain me this? (english or german)
***** Thats what im doing now, but i want to charge the batteries while they are inside of the portable Raspberry Pi! i dont want to extract they every time from the device. Dont know how to connect the loading "stuff" to the System (its already works) . My batteries are Serial connected, so i get 7.4V with 3000 mAh and someone said me i have to use a balancer, so they both get loaded to a same "level" and not overcharged or destroyed. I know the wrong usage is dangerouse and they can explode, thats the reason i search a solution . The item from amazon i already have. Big thanks for the answer
*****
But the single Cell has 3.7 V (2 Cells) . Dont i overload it with this ? i want the full charging stuff into the raspberry.
you want to get a shunt regulator to balance the cells
I find LiPos fun. If you want I can see about designing a PCB that you could use?
Hello Ben. Is it possible to use the battery while it's charging? Or do I need a switch between the external power supply and battery? Could you give an example of a backup power supply for the Arduino with a lithium battery?
Yes you can use the battery while its charging. In a project I'm working on that uses this charging IC I placed a switch between the battery and Arduino circuitry so the USB port+charger+battery are always fully connected while the Arduino's power can be switched on and off. With this setup you can plug in a USB cable and the battery charger functions no matter if the switch is on or off. I show a schematic of this about 7 minutes into this video Freetronics Wireless Cube4 Part 1
dparson Thank you very much! You've helped me a lot.
yes and no, it depends on the battery charger IC, some specifically do not allow it, and attaching a load while charging the battery will destabilize their regulation loop, it's best to assume that you can't, unless the specific IC you are using mentions that you can
What is that awesome program he is using named??
CadSoft Eagle
Thx
have u made ever a solar battery charger ??
Joshua de kroon He did. I forget the episode. It was maker fair one.
dear sir can you send me a video with diagram for charging led acid battery from the solar energy
Are the caps 4,7uF?
Yes, he's using the circuit shown on the bottom of page 1 on the MCP73831's datasheet. I've used 10uF caps in 2 projects rather than 4.7 and they work fine as well.
ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20001984g.pdf
Why was power in VDD and not VCC?
Is Ben color blind or is it me? Kept calling blue, purple...
It probably is purple, the camera probably got it wrong. This happens all the time with my camera, I take a picture of something blue and it comes out purple, or something bright green ends up yellow. I think it has to do with pixels being made up of different colors and human eyes interpret this differently than a camera would.
Because technically VDD is for FET based ICs and VCC is for BJT based ICs
scott deere As far as my copy of Eagle is concerned the lower layer in a 2 layer board is Blue, not Purple, top layer is Red.
Oh, Thanks for both reply s.
Must be colorblind then lol
I just started using Protel dxp 2014 (We are working on it in school)
And i really want to know opinions on protel vs eagle
for me it looks like eagle is simpler and friendlier to use then protel but protel has some nice stuff but ...
just want to hear opinions Thanks !
lol protel sounds more professional
about that license ... nah our whole country is falling apart pays are bad like really bad and prices are high even higher than prices from germany for food at least we can barely survive and as high school student i don't get any money nor a side job to do so i can't afford to give even 10 $ on license ...
yeah that's how bad the state is ;)
i'm sure i won't even get a job after school
but there's at least hope ...
SlashDot.R00T.exe
I feel ya. Just download all the shit.
Go with Altium, been using it for years now and its night and day compared to eagle. It might be a bit more complicated to get started with, but there are good training videos on the website to get you going. But its worth it because altium does pretty much everything better. The difference might not matter for small projects, but once you get to big complex boards it helps a great deal to have those fancy features in altium and the nicer interface for moving tracks around as you are trying to squeeze that last 0.5mm of space out to get your track to fit trough a gap.
thanks :)
SlashDot.R00T.exe 0:40 xD
Ben, any reason for removing one of the pads on the USB-plug?
USB standard uses 4 pins (power +, data +, data - and power -)
Micro USB has 5 pins and the 4th one is to tell which device is superior
some smartphones have USB host and flash drives or USB mice can be connected to them
for more info look in wikipedia
kokoilie Eh, yes and i know that. I just wonder why cut one of the pins in half and have a harder time drilling the hole afterwards.
sorry I thought you noticed that he said he didn't need that pin
also he drilled the hole because it's easier than bending the lead of the connector
Elco 565 model
No ghost squad????
Hi Ben, i'm a fan from italy and I want to ask an hard question to you: I can transform my raspberry pi into an android device like a little smartphone? Greets from Italy
Yes, you can, but it's not really worth it. Google "Raspberry Pi and Android - Guides and Resources".
may I know the software name.
The PCB design software is called Eagle.
it is 3.7v what is the miliamps on this
The charging IC he used, an MCP73831, has a maximum charge rate of 500mAh. This is also the maximum charge rate you can pull from a computer USB port so it's a useful in that situation. The charge rate is adjustable by the resistor you hook to pin 5, the PROG pin, on the IC. The datasheet ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20001984g.pdf has a formula to calculate the resistor value to use for different charging currents on page 15 in section 5.1.2, and there's a picture of the charge rate vs resistor value on page 7, figure 2-4. This is just the maximum charge rate though, the charger's logic will adjust the rate accordingly until the battery is charged, it just won't go over the rate you set.
dparson thanks can eagle work with ordinary printer I'll have to try make my own board for this
can i have the full schematic please?
It's shown in the video, he draws it in Eagle.
WHY IN GOD'S NAME IS THE LASER ETCH PRINTER MODEL NUMBER AND PRICE NOT LISTED ???
this subtitles are to weird ;D ! at 3:43 they say "the castro be way overkill american" hahahhahahahha
is there a circuit diagram out for lazy ppl ? :D and are these 4.7µF or nF ?
it's 4.7uF for filtering
Littlebits
build a hoverboard
Hey Ben, what college did you go to?
what is the last comment ? :D
i use max1555, but it almoust same
Change keyborad bro!
I'm Here so early so i have to comment.. :)
the motivation is gone
Dear The Ben Heck Show you seriously need new computer for recording your stuff.
Can you make a xbox one laptop???
how do you screen record xbox gamplay for free
Last one to watch this
Build a Raspberry Pi smartphone PLEASE
PS: Because my smartphone dropped from my pocket and then stolen :-( i have a raspberry pi and WHY NOT MAKE IT INTO A FUCKING SMARTPHONE!!! the problem is that i don't know how to
photoshop技術或機器的設計,均不屬著作權所要保障的對象
Why does Ben waste time making a circuit on eagle, why not mount all the components on a proto board??
Are you serious? How do you pretend to use a circuit in a protoboard? The finish is horrible, a PBC makes a much more professional finish to the proyect, so it's not waste of time
Because they wanted to make a basic "how to use Eagle" tutorial.
If they wanted to make a eagle tutorial video they would call it "basic eagle tutorial" ???? And also if you know how to solder properly and have experience with mounting components (which I'm sure Ben has) the protoboard will look fine..,
***** I understand that they are considerably better however the amount of time Ben must take to produce such a board is a little unnecessary...
***** But he usually only makes one per show....
Constantly panning the camera back and forth from yourself and the computer screen is kind of annoying and almost makes me dizzy. Are you afraid we will forget what you look like?
First comment!
Make a Watch Dogs Phone!