You are the best teacher for this video. Anyone can learn from you. Never had seen a better video than this, it was so precise with proper handling, patience, slowness pointing out every detail and a great video capture . Thank you so much, this really helped.
Indeed very clearly shown and most easy to follow. Only problem is many hubs need two different sizes of spokes on the two sides. That point is not mentioned here and though it is common sense but some novices might be a little confused..
Your video helped me immensely! I builded my first wheel referring to your tutorial. And I must say it turned out exceptionally well. I put my first 12 miles on them today! Thanks.
furulevi Yup! I'm ecstatic and feeling a lot more confident about building and truing my own wheels! All it takes is the proper tools and great tutorials like yours. Thanks again:)
Good job in getting this wheel laced up. Well explained for anyone to follow. However there easier methods that intuitively will have all spokes properly positioned. Roger Musson does the best job and his book is one of the best instructional manuals out in the market. Something you can perhaps explore and provide an updated video with your excellent way of explanation.
I was not know how to change the hib after seeing this video from you I changed my hub and added a disc brake which would cost 3,000 rs if i give it to shop.Thankyou very much.
I've always wanted to know how a wheel is built. Now you've answered the question, and you have done it very beautifully. However, there still remains the question of tightening the spokes. I think this is also an extremely tricky stage. To make a wheel turn 100% true must be nigh on impossible. I bet you can do it though. Thanks for posting.
You can use the brake pads to make the rim straight. If the rim rubs on the... right side than slightly tighten the spoke which would pull the rim to the left side.
furulevi That's called truing. What I meant, as I very precisely stated below, is the TIGHTENING of all the spokes just after mounting the wheel. One turn too many, and you can throw your wheel right out of round. I don't know if you've done another video showing this. Anyway I enjoyed your post. I'll keep moving. Ciao.
Just so you know, this is also called truing, Furu mentioned Lateral truing, you were talking about Radial Truing. To properly true a wheel you should be monitoring and adjusting both.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid forgot my account password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Yousef Johan I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
I've built 50 or so wheels. Nice video, nice demonstration. The only thing I'd add is the need for grease on the threads and where the nipples seat inside the rim. I've always stuck the spoke threads into a tube of Phil Wood grease before threading on the nipple. I also prep the rim by using a Q-Tip to smear some grease on the area the nipple seats on in each hole (from outside the rim). Well done though still.
Grease is fine while building, but not a good idea for the life of the wheel. I would use something specifically designed for the spoke nipples, there are many brand name products for lubricating and locking the nipples, but a time honored product is boiled linseed oil, available at most hardware stores, it is ideal because it lubricates while building the wheel, and dries with a mild "lock tight" property so that after building, pre-stressing, and using the wheel, you really do not want those nipples moving around much after you have built the wheel. Before I went to UBI to learn this, I had a set of wheel build by Sugar Wheel Works in Portland, and Jude built a wheel for my 26" NuVinci CVPT hub, that I used for over 7 years, and the wheel never failed or had more than 2 broken nipples in all that time, and the hub had finally failed (NuVinci no longer supports the N171b, so I have to build a new wheel today so I can get back to doing my Ebike delivery job in two days lol!) and I can tell you that wheel had somewhere close to 10,000 miles on it, I unintentionally hit curbs at over 25 MPH with a fully loaded bike for touring, and it never even got far enough out of true to need a re-truing! I just had to replace 2 spoke nipples once after 4 years , and one just recently at 7. The point is, you NEED the nipples and spokes able to move and flex, just not too much! And grease is just going to allow that nipple to move too much for proper tension to be maintained for the life of the wheel, unless you only use it on the rim, and have some other treatment on the spoke threads to keep it from moving too easily.
i use old wd40 that put in pot with nipples and shake it well and it will go well when screw it and wd40 will disapear after 1-2 days. when wheel is finished, i put 1 drop of rubber glue on top of nipple inside of rim to spread over nipple head and rim and it will never loosen but it can be screwed if needed-tested on more than 500 wheels and non loosen
Thanks for sharing. It's a very good walkthrough! I've used a 'Tacx Exact' wheel truing stand for truing after the lacing of the wheel. It's somewhat cheap and you get a more accurate truing in all three directions. You're however right that you can just turn your bike upside down if you don't want to correct the last millimeters ;-)
Amer Milanovic It is the same but front wheel is a lot easier since you do not have to worry about hub being off-center, or having different tensions on drive side vs. non drive side..etc. On front wheel both sides are identical. If you have access to a spoke tension meter it can be great tool to use when building wheels; ensuring same tension on every spoke will prolong lifetime of your wheel.
Hey! Nice video! Do you use the same spoke length for both sides? I'm trying to learn how to properly build a wheel and some people say that, on the drive side you need 2-3mm spokes longer. Thanks!
I used the same length on both sides, but the spokes which are on the drive side where the Freewheel/Cassette is need to be screwed in deeper into the nipples to center the rim for the brakes!
***** Actually, since drive side lays flatter it would require shorter spokes (by 2-3 mm) instead of longer spokes. Using same length spokes is fine as long as spokes do not stick out outside of the rim, and have enough threads to fixate properly; which most high end wheels will have. Also you should consider the weight savings off each spoke:P. P.S. Great video; Will make sure to share!
I got new rim laced at the shop for me, but it was off center so I loosened up spokes on the left and tightened spokes on the right, we'll see how it works...
Nice tutorial video. Quick question; I have a Shimano Deore XT model FH-M756A rear hub & I plan on using it to build a 29 rear wheel with it. Anyone know what size spokes I would need? I plan on ordering the spokes online & doing the work myself to save some money.
I see your comment is 6 months old, so not sure if my reply is too late, but if you are still needing to build that, i will be building a 700c wheel with the same Shimano Deore hub, 36h. I plan on filming and uploading the build. Just a quick answer to your question of what size spoke to use, find an online spoke calculator and type in the specs of your hub and your rim.
hi i didn't understand the first spoke on the other side of the hub how you choose the corect hub holl and how do you choose if enter it from inside or from outside
The 1st spoke in the 2nd flange (shown from 10:43) is positioned on the other side (180°) of the 1st spoke of the 1st side. One set of spokes (on one flange) is introduced from the interior and the other set of spokes (on the same flange) is introduced from the exterior. (shown from 13:29).
When I read sheldon browns wheel building tutorial he says, "The first two crosses, this spoke will pass outside of the trailing spokes, but for the outermost cross it should be "laced" so that it goes on the inside of the last trailing spoke. You will have to bend this leading spoke to get it around the last trailing spoke on the correct side." So it's over. over and under? But in this video you go , under, under and over
admeen hacker That's pretty easy, use either a screwdriver (when the tire is not on the rim) or a spoke wrench to turn the spoke nipples. Tighten a nipple to pull closer the rim onto a desired side or release (unscrew) a nipple to let it go to the other side. You can use the brake pads to see where the rim is rubbing them. (truing in a nut shell)
Good overview of the lacing pattern, but you didn't make any effort to honour two wheel building conventions. First is that you determine the location of the first spoke so that when the wheel is built any printing or decal on the hub is visible when viewed through the valve hole. Second, that any printing or decals on the rim can be read when viewed from the right hand side of the bicycle. Neither is essential, but both are recognised hallmarks of a professionally handbuilt wheel.Spoke threads and nipples should also be lightly lubricated with oil, to aid tensioning and truing.Thank you for posting this video.
This lacing order clearly works but is not the simplest. 1. Only the first set of 8 is simple. 2. It's really hard to find the correct hole for the first spoke on the second side. I think it's fair to say that most wheel-builders choose to lace i) drive-side innies, ii) non-drive-side innies, iii) drive-side outies, iv) non-drive-dide outies. That way, the first two sets of 8 are simple as is finding the correct hole for the first spoke of the second set. Also, IMHO, there is less chance of scratching the rim with a spoke end.
![*SUPER RARE* THE PARADIGM IS BACK?!?!? Fortnite Item Shop [August 6th, 2024] (Fortnite Chapter 5)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ru6xSH1RaPw/mqdefault.jpg)
You are the best teacher for this video. Anyone can learn from you. Never had seen a better video than this, it was so precise with proper handling, patience, slowness pointing out every detail and a great video capture . Thank you so much, this really helped.
888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888
Best wheel lacing video on youtube ever, truly fantastic out of all those so call professionals...
Excellent instructional video on how to lace a wheel. I review this video every time I build a wheel. Thank you Furulevi.
Extremely helpful video. Thank you!! First video I really feel explained it all in a calm and easy way.
+NorwegianSpirit
Thanks!
Incredibly helpful. Thank you so much!
Indeed very clearly shown and most easy to follow. Only problem is many hubs need two different sizes of spokes on the two sides. That point is not mentioned here and though it is common sense but some novices might be a little confused..
Your video helped me immensely! I builded my first wheel referring to your tutorial. And I must say it turned out exceptionally well. I put my first 12 miles on them today! Thanks.
Stellar lupus Good job! ;)
furulevi Yup! I'm ecstatic and feeling a lot more confident about building and truing my own wheels! All it takes is the proper tools and great tutorials like yours. Thanks again:)
Im looking forward to following this video and building my 1st wheel. Thanks.
Good job in getting this wheel laced up. Well explained for anyone to follow. However there easier methods that intuitively will have all spokes properly positioned. Roger Musson does the best job and his book is one of the best instructional manuals out in the market. Something you can perhaps explore and provide an updated video with your excellent way of explanation.
This was genuinely really really good talked n stayed with all the way through
great tutorial mate many thx for taking the time
Nice work! Good presentation and description. Thanks!
U
Fantastic job on the video! Now you make me want to build up a rear wheel for my bike. Thanks for the video!
Gracias mii hermanoo, pude armar uno por primera vez 27,5 !! 🤙🏾💪💪💪
Thank for this simple video save me time and money just got finished thanks
Great work, instructions and video...
I am looking forward to following video and build my 1st wheel.Extreamely helpfull video .Thank you very much.
complimenti per la spiegazione esemplare. Grazie a te mi soso raggiato il cerchio bravo
Very good video! It helped me a lot!!
I was not know how to change the hib after seeing this video from you I changed my hub and added a disc brake which would cost 3,000 rs if i give it to shop.Thankyou very much.
تشکر میکنم ازت که این ویدئو آموزشی و مفید را گذاشتی.
I've always wanted to know how a wheel is built. Now you've answered the question, and you have done it very beautifully. However, there still remains the question of tightening the spokes. I think this is also an extremely tricky stage. To make a wheel turn 100% true must be nigh on impossible. I bet you can do it though. Thanks for posting.
You can use the brake pads to make the rim straight. If the rim rubs on the... right side than slightly tighten the spoke which would pull the rim to the left side.
furulevi That's called truing. What I meant, as I very precisely stated below, is the TIGHTENING of all the spokes just after mounting the wheel. One turn too many, and you can throw your wheel right out of round. I don't know if you've done another video showing this. Anyway I enjoyed your post. I'll keep moving. Ciao.
Just so you know, this is also called truing, Furu mentioned Lateral truing, you were talking about Radial Truing. To properly true a wheel you should be monitoring and adjusting both.
musamor75 that's also called truing buddy...
my new hub is at the post office so so hype to fix my bike and get riding again
Thank you so much bro I benefited a lot
Nice explain and very helpful video !!! Thank you for the help !!! Have a nice day!!!
Hey, this video is awesome. I've watched several times and just finished my first wheel set build!! So happy!! Thank you!
I dont mean to be so off topic but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid forgot my account password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Randall Sam Instablaster :)
@Yousef Johan I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Yousef Johan It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
@Randall Sam glad I could help =)
I've built 50 or so wheels. Nice video, nice demonstration. The only thing I'd add is the need for grease on the threads and where the nipples seat inside the rim. I've always stuck the spoke threads into a tube of Phil Wood grease before threading on the nipple. I also prep the rim by using a Q-Tip to smear some grease on the area the nipple seats on in each hole (from outside the rim). Well done though still.
I live in Venezuela, and that brand of grease is not on sale here. Can I use other kind, like marine grease, or graphite? Thanks.
Sure, any will do. I mention the Phil Wood grease because it's supposed to be waterproof and I happen to have some around.
Grease is fine while building, but not a good idea for the life of the wheel. I would use something specifically designed for the spoke nipples, there are many brand name products for lubricating and locking the nipples, but a time honored product is boiled linseed oil, available at most hardware stores, it is ideal because it lubricates while building the wheel, and dries with a mild "lock tight" property so that after building, pre-stressing, and using the wheel, you really do not want those nipples moving around much after you have built the wheel. Before I went to UBI to learn this, I had a set of wheel build by Sugar Wheel Works in Portland, and Jude built a wheel for my 26" NuVinci CVPT hub, that I used for over 7 years, and the wheel never failed or had more than 2 broken nipples in all that time, and the hub had finally failed (NuVinci no longer supports the N171b, so I have to build a new wheel today so I can get back to doing my Ebike delivery job in two days lol!) and I can tell you that wheel had somewhere close to 10,000 miles on it, I unintentionally hit curbs at over 25 MPH with a fully loaded bike for touring, and it never even got far enough out of true to need a re-truing! I just had to replace 2 spoke nipples once after 4 years , and one just recently at 7. The point is, you NEED the nipples and spokes able to move and flex, just not too much! And grease is just going to allow that nipple to move too much for proper tension to be maintained for the life of the wheel, unless you only use it on the rim, and have some other treatment on the spoke threads to keep it from moving too easily.
i use old wd40 that put in pot with nipples and shake it well and it will go well when screw it and wd40 will disapear after 1-2 days.
when wheel is finished, i put 1 drop of rubber glue on top of nipple inside of rim to spread over nipple head and rim and it will never loosen but it can be screwed if needed-tested on more than 500 wheels and non loosen
Thanks a lot for the video sir!
Thanks for sharing. It's a very good walkthrough!
I've used a 'Tacx Exact' wheel truing stand for truing after the lacing of the wheel. It's somewhat cheap and you get a more accurate truing in all three directions. You're however right that you can just turn your bike upside down if you don't want to correct the last millimeters ;-)
Thank You!
Very well explained 👏 👌
I love u are awesome superb I am from Pakistan great video
So easy to understand thanks for the video sir!!!
thank so much for your tutorial, help me full
Thanks for your knowledge sharing.😊
I've fail 3 times to set the spokes.. after watch your video it's too easy. Thanks mate
Thank you very very best video
really good thanks
Very good vedio. 👍👍
awesome and thank you
your the best
super video 👍👍👍
Excellent
Good job
EXCLELLENT GOD BLESS U
Very informative, thanks so much
Thank you.
What are the size of spokes you have used? And how to find the correct size ?
Thank you. This explanation helped me a lot
GREAT
Good job! Thank a lot
your video helped me decide to just buy a wheel already made. lol
:))
Thank you. ❤️
nice informative video, would the process be the same for a front 32 spoke wheel ? thanks.
yes it's the same
Amer Milanovic It is the same but front wheel is a lot easier since you do not have to worry about hub being off-center, or having different tensions on drive side vs. non drive side..etc. On front wheel both sides are identical. If you have access to a spoke tension meter it can be great tool to use when building wheels; ensuring same tension on every spoke will prolong lifetime of your wheel.
Hi Just a quick question, are the non drive side spokes longer than the drive side spokes?
yes on most rear ..
Good Job. ty
Thank you boss
Nice
Veri veri good
thank u so much im from Jamaica
I love it so much that I can get it
Hey! Nice video! Do you use the same spoke length for both sides? I'm trying to learn how to properly build a wheel and some people say that, on the drive side you need 2-3mm spokes longer. Thanks!
I used the same length on both sides, but the spokes which are on the drive side where the Freewheel/Cassette is need to be screwed in deeper into the nipples to center the rim for the brakes!
***** Actually, since drive side lays flatter it would require shorter spokes (by 2-3 mm) instead of longer spokes. Using same length spokes is fine as long as spokes do not stick out outside of the rim, and have enough threads to fixate properly; which most high end wheels will have. Also you should consider the weight savings off each spoke:P.
P.S.
Great video; Will make sure to share!
I got new rim laced at the shop for me, but it was off center so I loosened up spokes on the left and tightened spokes on the right, we'll see how it works...
Nice tutorial video. Quick question; I have a Shimano Deore XT model FH-M756A rear hub & I plan on using it to build a 29 rear wheel with it. Anyone know what size spokes I would need? I plan on ordering the spokes online & doing the work myself to save some money.
Hi Joe, if you have another 29er measure those spokes make sure their identical
I see your comment is 6 months old, so not sure if my reply is too late, but if you are still needing to build that, i will be building a 700c wheel with the same Shimano Deore hub, 36h. I plan on filming and uploading the build. Just a quick answer to your question of what size spoke to use, find an online spoke calculator and type in the specs of your hub and your rim.
Thanks
Exellent
Very nice video.
thanku boss
Is there a drive side on a rim or it doesn't matter which side I use?
Check the rim if it has some marks regarding to this aspect, otherwise I think it doesn't matter...
please help ! my spokes are very long and my hub is 32 holes but the rim is 36 holes ? i cant fix it
You could use 4 spokes less, but if they are too long than you have to get at least shorter spokes...
I ended up making both sides in the same direction, is it bad?
See if the spokes are deforming in the direction of pedaling or braking.
الاله اللي بتربط السموله اجيبه منين
Thank you Thank you Thank you
hi
i didn't understand the first spoke on the other side of the hub
how you choose the corect hub holl and how do you choose if enter it from inside or from outside
The 1st spoke in the 2nd flange (shown from 10:43) is positioned on the other side (180°) of the 1st spoke of the 1st side. One set of spokes (on one flange) is introduced from the interior and the other set of spokes (on the same flange) is introduced from the exterior. (shown from 13:29).
Duz Poowza by
When I read sheldon browns wheel building tutorial he says, "The first two crosses, this spoke will pass outside of the trailing spokes, but for the outermost cross it should be "laced" so that it goes on the inside of the last trailing spoke. You will have to bend this leading spoke to get it around the last trailing spoke on the correct side." So it's over. over and under?
But in this video you go , under, under and over
6:58 under, under, over (drive side)
14:01 over, over, under (non drive side)
good video. i wish your next vid is how to truing :)
admeen hacker That's pretty easy, use either a screwdriver (when the tire is not on the rim) or a spoke wrench to turn the spoke nipples. Tighten a nipple to pull closer the rim onto a desired side or release (unscrew) a nipple to let it go to the other side. You can use the brake pads to see where the rim is rubbing them. (truing in a nut shell)
@@furulevi so to correct wobble??
Do rear trike wheels that are attached to an axle rather than a cassette have to be offset as well? Thanks
+wahwah1013
If there is no cassette than there is no need to offset the hub. It can remain in the center (all spokes tightened equally).
Thank you.
24t spoke number?
ස්තූතියි කොම්ලෝ ♥️🇱🇰
Good overview of the lacing pattern, but you didn't make any effort to honour two wheel building conventions. First is that you determine the location of the first spoke so that when the wheel is built any printing or decal on the hub is visible when viewed through the valve hole. Second, that any printing or decals on the rim can be read when viewed from the right hand side of the bicycle. Neither is essential, but both are recognised hallmarks of a professionally handbuilt wheel.Spoke threads and nipples should also be lightly lubricated with oil, to aid tensioning and truing.Thank you for posting this video.
Can i ask 32-hole and 36-hole it is same process?
I'm not sure, I did this just once...
Will this work if i have 36 spokes?
not 100%... but the basic idea is the same, just the number of spokes is higher
The direction of the trailing/ leading spokes are in wrong direction.
Size of spokes sir
This lacing order clearly works but is not the simplest. 1. Only the first set of 8 is simple. 2. It's really hard to find the correct hole for the first spoke on the second side.
I think it's fair to say that most wheel-builders choose to lace i) drive-side innies, ii) non-drive-side innies, iii) drive-side outies, iv) non-drive-dide outies. That way, the first two sets of 8 are simple as is finding the correct hole for the first spoke of the second set. Also, IMHO, there is less chance of scratching the rim with a spoke end.
ulta dribble ksae nikale
Are you from Lithuania ?
Romania (Hungarian)
Is this a 2x or 3x? thanks
What do you refer more exactly?
Is a 2 cross or 3 cross lacing pattern?
Alex Cortez 3x cross lacing pattern (under, under, over)
can we but lesser spoke then 32 on a 32 holes Rear Hub ?
you can... but it's not recommended, at least do it in a uniform manner, at 180 degrees...
what pattern and how many spokes at the minimum could not compromise the strength of the rim ?
Hard to tell... the more spokes the better because the less stress is placed onto a single spoke.
Aap 40 spoke Bala video banao bhai
It iz as nice as anyone thoughts.
My brain hurts
Do I hear a Hungarian accent? If so, I might ask you for some advice in the near future!
igen ;)
furulevi
Ok, PM ment :D
جيد
rim nane sir?
I don't have this bike anymore...
Don't ever delete this.
+Gino Tolentino.
The video from the channel?
yeah, this is useful for when I build my wheel.
when ur drunk and wanted to make a video
Hi
ulta dribble koi ksae neekale
?
सर मुझे 40 स्पोक बाला रिम रिपेरिंग करके दिखाओ
I haven't done that yet.
gerd schraner method