I used to work on these things all the time. The evaporator pressure valve he’s talking about is actually a crankcase pressure regulator. This is used to limit suction pressure when the box comes out of defrost so the compressor doesn’t overload. They rarely need adjustment. The procedure is when the compressor first starts either after defrost or when the box is at room temperature, you adjust it so the compressor draws no more than it’s full load amp rating. You don’t even have to install gauges on it to adjust. Once the evaporator drops to a normal operating temperature the valve is no longer a factor. It is located on the suction line, usually near the compressor on these True freezers. You just remove the gnarled brass cover behind which is an Allen head adjustment. The cap seals with an o ring. Sometimes there is oil inside the adjustment cover which means it’s leaking refrigerant and needs replaced. Just wanted to point this out since he didn’t mention anything more about it.
Please if you do not care about your costumer store, why do you bother cleaning the condenser, that is not the proper way to clean a condenser, if the unit is low in refrigerant and the amount is more that ½ of the total charge, is better to recover, check for leaks with nitrogen, replace filter dryer and chard refrigerant with a scale.
the reason for the high head is a high heat load from the box. Also the fact that the condenser fan cowling is missing, so its hard to actually pull air through the coil with that missing. Either make one out of card board and duct tape or panning for a temporary measure, and order the actual part. They are usually made of a dence card stock, so durability is not job one.
Sir Jim!I'm the one who send you an email to your account,I like what are you doing(RAC)every one is enjoying to see your videos,they are very important to the viewer especially like me...I'm from the Philippines.Every detail....diagnose....troubleshoot ....install.....repair and replace the defective parts is very important to see in actual.Im very proud that you help a lot to those who want to learn from your expertise sir!REF/AIRCON
Hello Jim I'm new in this trade, but i need to know something. How can i know what is the correct pressure or temperature in the system for correct charge. for example , In coolers True ( no freezers), normally the pressure for R134A is around 18-20 psi Right?, in this video the refrigerant is R404A I supposed that this TRue is a freezer. Can you help me with this, because is confusing . How I know or what is a method to charging a maintenance cooler or a freezer cooler. Thanks.
oh, and for new guys in the industry, those service valve caps aren't available anywhere. gas is getting so expensive to the point its better to replace that service valve (leak repair) rather than a gas n go.
I had seen a video of yours where you were showing a flaring tool that had a clutch type of handle but cannot remember which video it was on. Can you tell me what flaring tool that was please?
THX. Jim for this upload. I'm new to this industry, have 2 questions. #1-You charged this unit from the low side with liquid refrigerant? #2- When charging, Why you don't weigh in your refrigerant(per manufactures spec.) as suppose to going by the amp draw and hi & low side pressure?
Have you ever had to replace the drain line that runs down the back of these True units? A client of mine had one break off at the grommet and i don't know if you can just pull a new on through or if it's a nightmare.
+aeroaggie sounds bad, luckily I haven't had to, True set up franchises to local companies, they are usually overpriced, something difficult like this I would refer the customer to them
I recently found a True factory service manual. They actually recommend drilling all the way through the back of the freezer and running the drain down the outside of the unit. Same with replacing the suction line and cap tube. I've never done it but I may give it a shot someday.
On a unit like this one I'll charge by pressure, amperage, evap temp, evap delta T, liquid line temp and suction line frost back. If you over charge the unit it might not be apparent while the system is running, the problem will show up after the unit comes off defrost, too much refrigerant heat load will come back to the compressor and the amps will be too high, that's where the CPR valve (if set correctly) does it's job and meters the amount of refrigerant going back to the compressor to keep the amperage down.
People are lucky to have a technician like you ( you work from your heart , which rarely you can find these days . Thanks for you for posting your nice work .
He could not find a leak? Copelemetic compressors are semi-hermetic. You will likely find leaks on these, under the terminal box cover. Common start and run terminals have mechanical seals with screws and nuts. Always sniff for leaks at these terminals. You can usually snug them and stop the leak without removing refrigerant.
Refrigeration is far from my strong suit. We are just a residential / light commercial a/c company. I really enjoy your videos. They are helping me to pick up a little more knowledge.
Lynn Winstead you often find engineers trained on refrigeration units are never particularly fond of air conditioning and vice versa. the primary concept is the same but everything else is less similar. it comes down to personal experience - wouldn't surprise me if this gent works for himself, most service companies here in the uk dont get this kind of equipment or time to look at every single call out so in depth. the focus on kpi ratings and quick first time fixs have taken precedence over caring about the work and taking time to get a job done well. as far as so called engineers hiding information (in response to another comment) they do it to get brownie points. if other engineers are struggling because they don't know the answer it means the one who goes in that does gets an ego trip. sadly you get a lot of these numpty types and the laughable thing is they usually come unstuck because 'what goes around comes around' 😉 sorry for the long comment great videos man ☺
It's easy to overcharge a freezer like this. When the system comes off defrost is the critical point, if it's overcharged the load will be too high and can bind up the compressor.
sorry to be offtopic but does anybody know a way to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid lost my password. I love any tips you can offer me!
@Andres Brysen Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
if the amperage is low that means that the unit is not going to cool properly. when it gets to the rated amperage then the unit is filled. do I have that right? I am not an HVAC professional but I find that incredible. I am glad tat i found you because I want to learn from you and all of the rest of the professionals that comment. please dont think that I am either wasting your time or an asking a dumb question. I find this very interesting and just want to learn. I appreciate your patience. I thank you and everyone else.
I used to work on these things all the time. The evaporator pressure valve he’s talking about is actually a crankcase pressure regulator. This is used to limit suction pressure when the box comes out of defrost so the compressor doesn’t overload. They rarely need adjustment. The procedure is when the compressor first starts either after defrost or when the box is at room temperature, you adjust it so the compressor draws no more than it’s full load amp rating. You don’t even have to install gauges on it to adjust. Once the evaporator drops to a normal operating temperature the valve is no longer a factor. It is located on the suction line, usually near the compressor on these True freezers. You just remove the gnarled brass cover behind which is an Allen head adjustment. The cap seals with an o ring. Sometimes there is oil inside the adjustment cover which means it’s leaking refrigerant and needs replaced. Just wanted to point this out since he didn’t mention anything more about it.
Please if you do not care about your costumer store, why do you bother cleaning the condenser, that is not the proper way to clean a condenser, if the unit is low in refrigerant and the amount is more that ½ of the total charge, is better to recover, check for leaks with nitrogen, replace filter dryer and chard refrigerant with a scale.
you sound hispanic. my ancestor was Charles V of Spain.
paulohvac He got the job done
spend alot of time in the field do you?
Jim please start wearing gloves for everything, watch yourself first Jim !!!!!
I’m surprised you didn’t cover the condenser with cloth before blowing it out, store keepers must be more tolerant in the USA 👍
the reason for the high head is a high heat load from the box. Also the fact that the condenser fan cowling is missing, so its hard to actually pull air through the coil with that missing. Either make one out of card
board and duct tape or panning for a temporary measure, and order the actual part.
They are usually made of a dence card stock, so durability is not job one.
Sir Jim!I'm the one who send you an email to your account,I like what are you doing(RAC)every one is enjoying to see your videos,they are very important to the viewer especially like me...I'm from the Philippines.Every detail....diagnose....troubleshoot ....install.....repair and replace the defective parts is very important to see in actual.Im very proud that you help a lot to those who want to learn from your expertise sir!REF/AIRCON
Great video, thank you for sharing your knowledge
no prob, thanks
Excellent Trouble shooting and fixing the leak.9/15/2021
nice work jim . greetings from GRECE
Πανος Χριστόπουλος thanks for commenting
All brand have digital control system but true still Using old control .. Thermostat .
Jim I notice that the cardboard fan Shroud is missing did that have anything to do with the high head PSI?
high head from the missing condenser fan shroud, ouch ;)
This freezer was made in April 2004!
The unit is the FAN shroud... Put the condenser back in , then tack your readings - Hello.
Where are the shrouds for the condensing fans?
Hello Jim I'm new in this trade, but i need to know something. How can i know what is the correct pressure or temperature in the system for correct charge. for example , In coolers True ( no freezers), normally the pressure for R134A is around 18-20 psi Right?, in this video the refrigerant is R404A I supposed that this TRue is a freezer. Can you help me with this, because is confusing . How I know or what is a method to charging a maintenance cooler or a freezer cooler. Thanks.
Mine no power to light or panel…
Also freon does not deteriorate it doesn't dissipate.......... You have a leak - find it !
Jim did find it! It was on the high side King Valve stem. He even described his method of fixing it. ... be kind.
You are doing great job, Lucky customers who has Top of the Line Tech like you! I am learning lot from you. Thank you
oh, and for new guys in the industry, those service valve caps aren't available anywhere. gas is getting so expensive to the point its better to replace that service valve (leak repair) rather than a gas n go.
I wonder why on refrigeration they have the valves you have to crack open to get pressure readings, maybe cause it seals better.
Ah shit
Than you for this video. 🙋♂️🇻🇪
I usually put a wet towel around the fans to pickup all that dust other wise it will pick up all that dust back again
I just I will sit down next week and write down notes for future reference...this show I took note of amp charging.
especially refrigeration everything seems to cut
Thumbs Up Jim !!! LOL watch those fans!!
Great videos! Enjoy the time spent
showing the details!
I had seen a video of yours where you were showing a flaring tool that had a clutch type of handle but cannot remember which video it was on. Can you tell me what flaring tool that was please?
+joshua G yellow jacket
be careful with the smoke alarm detector, :)
Thanks you so much for these videos they have helped me a lot.
I miss you videos I hope your doing well
Good video. Thanks for sharing.
THX. Jim for this upload. I'm new to this industry, have 2 questions. #1-You charged this unit from the low side with liquid refrigerant? #2- When charging, Why you don't weigh in your refrigerant(per manufactures spec.) as suppose to going by the amp draw and hi & low side pressure?
+hondagoal I meter the liquid in slowly so most of it boils off. I am so use o charging by pressure that it easier for me.
+Jim Pettinato THX. for the explanations. Love your videos, they're all good and informative.
Have you ever had to replace the drain line that runs down the back of these True units? A client of mine had one break off at the grommet and i don't know if you can just pull a new on through or if it's a nightmare.
+aeroaggie sounds bad, luckily I haven't had to, True set up franchises to local companies, they are usually overpriced, something difficult like this I would refer the customer to them
I recently found a True factory service manual. They actually recommend drilling all the way through the back of the freezer and running the drain down the outside of the unit. Same with replacing the suction line and cap tube. I've never done it but I may give it a shot someday.
If you had four skids of frozen shrimp. You' probably be better off using this stand-up freezer than like a 12-foot walk in for electricity savings?
Great work Jim.
good video !
Thanks again Jim
Great video ! So you do not charge by pressure ?
On a unit like this one I'll charge by pressure, amperage, evap temp, evap delta T, liquid line temp and suction line frost back. If you over charge the unit it might not be apparent while the system is running, the problem will show up after the unit comes off defrost, too much refrigerant heat load will come back to the compressor and the amps will be too high, that's where the CPR valve (if set correctly) does it's job and meters the amount of refrigerant going back to the compressor to keep the amperage down.
spray dust all through the store
Fantastic video and job Jim !!!!
Thanks, did you see the cute blond, I was going to ask her to wear two of my business stickers and promote my business.
***** she's standing right here next to me she said sure send them over
People are lucky to have a technician like you ( you work from your heart , which rarely you can find these days . Thanks for you for posting your nice work .
He could not find a leak? Copelemetic compressors are semi-hermetic. You will likely find leaks on these, under the terminal box cover. Common start and run terminals have mechanical seals with screws and nuts. Always sniff for leaks at these terminals. You can usually snug them and stop the leak without removing refrigerant.
Found one like that today guy ended up opting for a new freezer instead of a new compressor
Refrigeration is far from my strong suit. We are just a residential / light commercial a/c company. I really enjoy your videos. They are helping me to pick up a little more knowledge.
Refrig and AC are close cousins, glad to help and share, some people are secretive, why.
Lynn Winstead you often find engineers trained on refrigeration units are never particularly fond of air conditioning and vice versa. the primary concept is the same but everything else is less similar. it comes down to personal experience - wouldn't surprise me if this gent works for himself, most service companies here in the uk dont get this kind of equipment or time to look at every single call out so in depth. the focus on kpi ratings and quick first time fixs have taken precedence over caring about the work and taking time to get a job done well. as far as so called engineers hiding information (in response to another comment) they do it to get brownie points. if other engineers are struggling because they don't know the answer it means the one who goes in that does gets an ego trip. sadly you get a lot of these numpty types and the laughable thing is they usually come unstuck because 'what goes around comes around' 😉 sorry for the long comment great videos man ☺
Just did a small single door glass freezer this morning Jim...you made me $239.00 dollars today...it was the door switch....thanks man!
True Unit
Erik Cable Erik don't spend it all on ice cold beer, thanks
Thanks Jim. I like it that you're watching the amp while charging.
It's easy to overcharge a freezer like this. When the system comes off defrost is the critical point, if it's overcharged the load will be too high and can bind up the compressor.
sorry to be offtopic but does anybody know a way to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost my password. I love any tips you can offer me!
@Ryan Matthias instablaster :)
@Andres Brysen Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Andres Brysen it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my ass!
Great video Jim.
Charles
thanks
if the amperage is low that means that the unit is not going to cool properly. when it gets to the rated amperage then the unit is filled. do I have that right? I am not an HVAC professional but I find that incredible. I am glad tat i found you because I want to learn from you and all of the rest of the professionals that comment. please dont think that I am either wasting your time or an asking a dumb question. I find this very interesting and just want to learn. I appreciate your patience. I thank you and everyone else.
THX for your teaching video. Greetings from Hungary!
My Grandfather Rudolph was born in Hungary, his ancestors were decended from the Habsburgs
The pro strikes again
thanks
Love your videos.
thanks